Discovering Serendipity

Bolgoda Lake and Cobra Island

Chathura — Tue, 06 Sep 2011 12:18:28 +0000

Contributing author: Chathura Jayasinghe
Location: Piliyandala, Colombo
Date of visit: August 2011

Nai Doova, or Cobra Island in English, is a small island located in the Bolgoda Lake in Piliyandala, Sri Lanka. It is one of eight islands located in the lake, along with Ruskin Island, San Michelle Island, and Picnic Island. Mr. Nimal, manager of a local restaurant, told me the origins of the island’s name; “People who lived around the area used to dump all the reptiles caught in their backyards onto to this island, thus the name Nai Doova“.

Getting There

Bolgoda Lake is located off of the Colombo–Horana road. After traveling about 0.5km from Piliyandala town towards Horana, there is turn-off to the right called Madapatha Road. Drive about 2–3km down Madapatha Road till you arrive at the Madapatha junction, from which you continue straight for another km to arrive at your destination. The Lake is located approximately 35 km from Colombo city and will take about 45 minutes by car.

Largest Natural Lake in Sri Lanka

Bolgoda Lake is a tributary of Kalu Ganga which starts from Adams Peak. It is presumed to be the largest natural lake in Sri Lanka and covers almost two thirds of the Kalutara district, extending from Anguruwatota to Piliyandala. It is also the largest fresh water lake in Sri Lanka. The lake’s depth is said to be in the range of 20–50 feet.

Dutch Waterway & British Hunting Ground

During the Dutch Colonial Period (1657-1796 AD), Bolgoda Lake was extensively used to ferry people and goods from the upper stream of Kalu Ganga, particularly from Ratnapura District. The lake was commonly used to transport timber from the Sinharaja Forest areas by log crafts. The islands were used as resting places for these log craftsmen as they floated along the river to timber mills of Moratuwa.

Under the British colonialists Bolgoda Lake was a famous hunting ground and place of recreation for the British adventurists who were stationed in the city of Colombo.

Ecotourism

There are a number of restaurants and hotels established around the area, providing a variety of eco activities to keep you occupied all day. Popular activities range from Bird watching, Sun Bathing, Pedal Boating, Motor Boating, Rowing, Sailing, Trawling, Angling, Jet Skiing and others.

Goto main Colombo page: The city of Colombo

Cobra Island (Nai Doova), Google Map

About Bolgoda Lake, chaletbolgoda.com

Focus on Wildlife at The Colombo Zoo

Bhagi — Fri, 25 Mar 2011 20:02:27 +0000

Contributing author: Sivagnanasundaram Bhagiraj
Location: Dehiwela, Colombo
Date of visit: October 2008

A southern suburb of Colombo, Dehiwela, is home to one of the finest zoos in Asia. Officially known as the National Zoological Gardens, the 25 acre Colombo Zoo or Dehiwela Zoo holds over 3000 animals from 350 species — Welcome to a Biological Paradise filled with entertainment, research and education.

Getting There

The best way there is heading south on Galle Road, passing Colombo’s finest hotels and driving 12 km till you pass a bridge that borders Colombo and Dehiwela. From that intersection the Zoo is about 1-2 km away. Tickets are required for admission and costs LKR 2,000 for a foreign adult or LKR 1,000 for a child. It is open to the public from 8.30 AM to 6 PM daily, as well as on most public holidays.

The Colombo Zoo is one of my favorite places to capture animal photography. Be sure to follow the numbers along the trail as you might get lost, missing one of the narrow pathways. If your sole intent is to capture photography, I recommend getting there on a weekday when its less busy. A well planned journey should take no more than four hours inside, but will certainly leave wonderful memories.

History and Founding

XML File doesn't existThe Zoo began as a menagerie in the late 1920′s by John Hagenbeck, a German national and member of the Hamburg-based circus family. John would collect animals at the premises to be exported to his brother Carl Hagenbeck, one of Europe’s largest animal dealers at the time. Being a German-owned business, the company was shut during the start of World War II and most of the animal collection were transfered to the Dehiwela Zoo.

Although officially founded in 1939, origins of the Dehiwela Zoo trace back even further when the public was allowed to visit Mr. Hagenbeck’s animal collection. Today, the Zoo welcomes over 1.2 millions annually.

The Aquarium

Your journey through the Aquarium starts with fish, but you will also be treated to a host of marine wildlife including Corals and Mollusca and bare witness to natural behavioral patterns. Also see some of the world’s largest freshwater fish directly from rivers in the amazon rivers.

The Aviary

XML File doesn't existNext journey through the bird aviary thats home to several species such as Owls, Eagles, Macaws, and more. Its quite an experience walking through their habitat and see the birds fly over your head, perch right in front of you and even walk with you. It all makes a great photo shoot, specially when one stops to peck at some grains ahead of you.

Herpitarium and Reptalium

Two other popular destinations are the Herpitarium and the Reptalium, where it is not uncommon to even see Tortoise riding on the back of Crocodiles. See some of the world’s most dangerous snakes like the Python, Cobra, Vipers, Krait, Mamba and the ever popular Anaconda. During my visit, the Anaconda had hatched 23 eggs and its babies were on display in a separate tank. Not to fear, all these snakes are kept in secure hard glass tanks.

Other Animal Attractions

XML File doesn't existThere is also some great entertainment with shows from Elephants, Sea Lions and Chimpanzees, including Elephant and Pony rides. Your tour will cover all sorts of primates, especially an Orangutan that is been a long living resident. You will see several large cats, Kangaroos, Giraffes, Hippos and even Camels. Some other key features are Waterfall and Swan Island, the Butterfly Garden, Lion Island, Pony Riding Arena and Elephant Arena thats home to roaming Elephants.

The last stretch of your tour takes you to visit the Carnivores where you could watch the Lions, Bears, Tigers and Cheetahs feeding — watch them rip their prey into pieces. Lastly its the Zebra’s who say goodbye, but you are welcome to go for another loop around but please before 6 PM.

A Botanical Paradise

XML File doesn't existThe Colombo Zoo not only houses animals but is also a Botanical Garden with large variety of flowering trees, medicinal plants and shady pathways which make you feel like you are walking through paradise. Also find potted plants to take back home. As you explore the many sections of the Zoo, there are several places to take short rest from your walk. However, I caution purchasing snacks from the restaurant and coffee shops that are priced quite high.

Editorial Note: Mixed Reviews

In the interest of full disclosure this note was added after submission by the original author, Bhagi. The Colombo Zoo has received mixed reviews by foreign visitors who complain that although the price of admission is more than at Western Zoos, such as that in San Diego (California, USA), it is much smaller. Trip Advisor reviews rate the Colombo Zoo three stars out of five and main complaint is that its enclosures might be a little too small for some of its inhabitants.

That being said, The Colombo Zoo has often being praised as one of the better Zoo’s Asia has to offer.

Goto main Colombo page: The city of Colombo

Reviews of Dehiwela Zoo, tripadvisor.com

STW 7: Wildlife Safari (Video)

Guest — Sun, 20 Mar 2011 18:29:41 +0000

Contributed by: Jasper Tey from Ontario, Canada. @jsprty on Twitter

Sri Lanka is home to over 20 National parks, most of which are sanctuaries for a wide variety of wildlife such as the Asian Elephant, Sri Lankan Leopard and Sambar. Yala National Park in the Uva and Southern Provinces is the country’s largest and most popular, well known wild elephant spotting.

During his trip to Sri Lanka, Jasper Tey caught some great footage during his wildlife safari thats we picked for serendipity this week.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=1N3bQxS_LzU

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This feature was provided by Jasper Tey, please visit his YouTube Channel or find him on Twitter to learn more about the contributor.

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STW 6: Sunrise Over Sri Pada (Adam’s peak)

Guest — Sun, 13 Mar 2011 18:29:01 +0000

Contributed by: Hiranya Samarasekera from Rajagiriya, Sri Lanka. @hiranyas on Twitter

This week serendipity comes from Hiranya who sent a wonderful capture during his hike to the top of Sri Pada mountain.

“This was one of the most sublime experiences I’ve had. As a first time climber of Sri Pada, Adam’s Peak in English, seeing the sunrise from its summit was something quite special for me. This photos was captured just before dawn, and you can see the spectacular display of colors. Moments after the sunrise you are treated with one of the most breathtaking panoramic views you will ever see.” See our archive of previous STW features.

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This feature was provided by Hiranya Samarasekera, please visit his Flickr photostream or find him on Twitter to learn more about the contributor.

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Aluvihara, The Birthplace of Buddhist Literature

Lasith — Sun, 06 Mar 2011 10:06:01 +0000

Location: Matale, Central Province
Date of visit: 29th December 2010

Today its a trip to my Mom’s hometown of Matale. While my mom and sister ran some errands I decided to explore another cave temple that I had heard quite a bit about but had never visited, the Aluvihara Temple. Aluvihara ought to be as important as the sacred Buddhist Temple of the Tooth in Kandy as it is the birthplace of Sri Lankan Buddhist literature.

Getting There

XML File doesn't existAluvihara is located about a five minute drive North of Matale town on the Trincomale/Dambulla Road. Coming from Matale you approach it on the left and you cannot miss the Golden Buddha statue situated on the rock further behind it. A Tuk-Tuk from town should not cost you most than LKR 100 for a one-way ride. Although there is no official entrance fee a donation is expected from non-worshipers, about LKR 500 should be appropriate per person.

Nearly Loosing the Dhamma

XML File doesn't existTraditionally, the Dhamma (Buddhist teaching) had been passed down verbally by monks in the Sangha (sanskrit, meaning Buddhist order). However, by the 1st century BC this practice was threatened by dwindling numbers in the Sangha.

The capital of Anuruadhapura was effected by twelve years of famine and during the same period the city was invaded by a Tamil Dalia army from Southern India. While the ruling King Walagamba took refuge in what are now the Dambulla caves, many monks from the Sangha fled to the hill country and India. Those that did remain had to survive on a subsistent diet of roots and leaves, and without proper nutrition it was difficult for them to focus on studying and preaching the Dhamma. Later when King Walagamba recaptured Anuradhapura in 89 BC he had turned against the prevailing Theravada (the sect of Buddhism that is most common in Sri Lanka) Sangha and instead support a new sect called Mahayana, led by the Sangha of the Abhayagiri monastery.

All those events caused a significant dwindle in the numbers of the Theravada Sangha. When the Theravada monks who had fled Anuradhapura returned and convened for the fifth Buddhist council, they were greatly alarmed at prospect of nearly losing the Dhamma forever and decided to preserve it by documenting it for the first time.

First Documentation of The Tripitaka

XML File doesn't existGiven the Kings lack of support of the Theravada Sangha, a location outside the capital was chosen for their long endeavor. They selected ‘Aloka Lena’, today called Aluvihara, in what was then known as Mathula Janapadaya, today’s Matale. Five hundred Maha Theras (the highest level of ordainment at the Sangha) were selected for the cause, led by Maha Thera Kunthagattha Tissa of the Thuparama Monastry, the predominant Theravada institution at the time.

Over a period of three years the monks document the Tripitaka, the Pali Canon consisting of the three sermon’s given by the Buddha’s during his life time — Sūtra Piṭaka (volume of discourse), a Vinaya Piṭaka (volume of discipline) and an Abhidharma Piṭaka (volume of further teachings). Their work was completed on a Vesak Poya (religious full moon) day and three copies were made for safekeeping — one is said to have been placed in a rock at Aluvihara, one within the Abhayagiri Dagaba and the other in the library at Aluvihara.

Completed by Hand on Ola Palm Leaves

The scriptures were documented by hand on Ola Pam Leaves. It is commonly recognized that a key development in literary technology was in Egypt, during the 2nd and 1st century BC, when Papyrus had been revived for common use as a writing surface. However, around the same time Buddhist monks of the Sangha were recording the Tripitaka on a similar parchment made of Ola Palm leaves.

Later Developments of Aluvihara

XML File doesn't existOver the years several Sinhalese Monarchs added to build the Aluvihara complex to what it is today. Most notable are King Maha Parakramabahu I (reigned 1153 – 1186) who built Polonnaruwa to its glory, King Nishshankamalla (reigned 1187 – 1196) who also developed Dambulla complex and King Vijaya Rajasinghe (reigned 1739 – 1747).

Sadly, the temple complex and its scriptures were damaged during the colonial period in later years. The Datch has destroyed some of the Tripitaka during the reign. In 1848 the British Army invaded Aluvihara, burning and destroying some manuscripts in the Library. However, the British Government did later restored the temple.

In 1973 an annual ‘Sangayana Perahera’ was announced to commemorate the writing of the Tripitaka, and continues today on the full moon Poya day of June.

Depiction of “Hell”

Visitors today could see examples of the Ola Leaf Tripitaka texts displayed at the Library next to the temple, and in the caves they are treated to a unique collection of Buddha statures and cave frescoes. One I found quite interesting is the depiction of hell, illustrating how punishment is handed out by demons to the sinners in the after life and is similar to the medieval European notion of hell underground. Interestingly, early Buddhist literature holds no evidence hell as depicted in these Frescors. Buddhists believe “hell” is a state of suffering that comes from retribution for acts of evil doing endured through rebirth in subsequent lives.

XML File doesn't existAnother cave in the complex features statues depicting capital punishments inflicted by the last Kandyan monarch, the cruel King Sri Wickrema Rajasinghe (reigned 1798 – 1815). He employed thirty-two forms of corporal punishment, including torture and mutilation of limbs and organs. One punishment depicted in the cave shows a sexual sinner who has his skull cut open and has boiling gravel poured into his head by two tortures while he weeps bitterly.

STW 4: Matale Ambalama

Guest — Sun, 27 Feb 2011 18:29:09 +0000

Contributed by: Nads Ratnayaka from London, UK

This photograph captures an “Ambalama” in the Matale countryside, a main district in the Central Province. An Ambalama is a traditional resting place for the weary traveler to take shelter, rest and sleep awhile in ancient times. I took this during my visit to Sri Lanka last year and gives me a sense of realization as to why my grandmother had opted not to move into the city with us. Looking in all directions you see endless greenery and a lovely view of the blue sky, the cold breeze gives you chills and the emotions are simply hard to put into words.

Each time I visit my grandmother, I go for a walk on the fields and wonder if I have missed out on something so amazing while growing up in the city? May be if I get another chance to grow up I would like to be in such a place but as much as I like to I’m not sure whether I’ll be able to adopt to the difference of lifestyle between urban and rural.

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In Memory of Grandpa: Funeral Customs

Lasith — Fri, 25 Feb 2011 21:51:22 +0000

13 May 1922 — 17 February 2011

A week ago my maternal grandfather passed away after eighty-eight wonderful years. As I return to this blog form my short hiatus, I thought I would dedicate a post to my grandpa, “Sonny” Herath Punchi Bandara Ellepola, and also give our readers an insight into Sri Lankan funeral customs.

Funeral customs in Sri Lanka vary considerably given the diversity of religion in the country. This article however will focus on Buddhist customs, practiced by about 70% of the population. There might also be minor variations on Buddhist customs based on region.

Herath Punchi Banda Ellepola

Born on May 1922 in the village of Ellepola, near Matale town, my grandpa was certainly a product of the British colonial era. Educated only in English at a private catholic boarding school, he barely spoke any Sinhalese as a child. Although this became an obstacle post-independence in a pro-Sinhalese government he soon overcame it, learning his native tongue as a young adult and going on to serve a long career in civil office as Co-operative Officer auditing agricultural societies.

XML File doesn't existIf you were to ask him, my grandfather’s proudest legacy would be his personal integrity. During our many chats about his professional work, he would always stress the fact that he never once cheated or accepted a bribe at a time when corruption in the country was becoming commonplace. I on the other hand would always remember him for the individual lives he touched. Although a father to three, his house was home to many more — an adopted child and several nephews from rural towns — all of whom he looked after and helped send to private school.

Grandpa was indeed a worldly person, curious of other cultures and abreast of world opinion through his Reader’s Digest periodicals. Some of his fondest memories were meeting two American volunteer workers who taught him to play the card game Bridge. Unfortunately a victim of the times, his global travel was limited to only two other countries — the United Arab Emirates and United States. When he visited me in New York in 2005, I had never visited the Statue of Liberty although I lived there and he insisted we do so regardless of the 3 hour wait in a standing line.

Funeral Customs: Coming Back Home, One Last Time

XML File doesn't existMy grandfather passed away on February 2011 at Kurunegala’s Nawinne Hospital. Shortly after he was declared deceased, his body was embalmed, dressed and brought back home for one last time. It is generally tradition that they are brought back to a place that was once their home, however today some final farewells are also done at a funeral parlor for convenience.

The body is brought home and laid to rest prominently in an open casket in the main living-room area, traditionally under two ivory tusks and a white cloth canopy. Today, given that ivory poaching is illegal, imitation tusks are used more commonly.

An Open Invitation, A Funeral Home Never Sleeps

If you were to drive pass a funeral home in Sri Lanka, you cannot miss it. The home of the deceased and nearby streets are lined with white flags and banners to signifying their mourning. For a period of two or three days while the body remains home, funeral homes are always an open invitation welcoming all from near and far to come pay their final respects and no one is turned away. During my grandfather’s I met several neighbors that none of us had seen before, yet they came to offer my mom their support.

XML File doesn't existGenerally a funeral home never sleeps and has plenty of food and drinks going around. While the deceased is still home, it is customary that at least one person remains awake throughout the nights. The closest affected may mourn their loss in private, while others usually congregate outside the house in makeshift tents playing cards, checkers or “carom” whiling away the hours.

Cremation Rituals

When the time comes for final ceremonies, the casket is closed and carried out of the house. In the past turmeric was used as common disinfectant and today a tradition continues where turmeric powder is sprinkled on the floor where the casket used to lay. Outside, Buddhist priests recite a final blessing and eulogies are read. The body is then carried in a procession to its final resting place

XML File doesn't existFor Buddhists the choice is between a burial or, as with my grandpa, cremation. Once the procession reaches the funeral pyre, they circle the pyre three times in a clockwise direction and then place the casket. It is tradition that only two men a generation younger, either a nephew or son-in-law of the deceased, light the pyre. Before setting the pyre alight, they both encircle it three times without looking at the pyre, each in the opposite direction and holding a flaming torch behind their backs. Once the funeral pyre is lit the two men undergo a cleansing ritual, washing themselves with water and lime. My grandpa was cremated in an electric crematorium which doesn’t require ignition by flame, nonetheless these rituals are mimicked and continued.

Seven Day Memorial Service

Exactly seven days after grandpa’s passing, as per tradition we had a memorial service with a religious sermon and alms giving to Buddhist monks. During this it used to be customary in the past that all items last used by the deceased were donated to the monks. Today while the practice is not carried out to its literal meaning, it is mimicked at a tradition and a sleeping mat, pillow and broom are donated instead.

“About us”, Department of Co-Operative Development

STW 3: King Coconuts (Video)

Guest — Sun, 20 Feb 2011 18:29:46 +0000

Contributed by: Jasper Tey from Ontario, Canada. @jsprty on Twitter

King coconuts, called “Thambili” in Sinhalese, are a common sight throughout Sri Lanka. In almost every home you’ll find a king coconut palm swaying in the breeze, or another familiar sight are the orange bunches of king coconuts displayed for sale at wayside huts. Considered a “living pharmacy”, it is one of the most versatile and medically practical plants in Sri Lanka and is consumed by the masses on a daily basis.

During his trip to Sri Lanka, Jasper Tey caught some great footage of the goodness of a King Coconut. This week, serendipity is in the King Coconut.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=tgt9BAzCI5A

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This feature was provided by Jasper Tey, please visit his YouTube Channel or find him on Twitter to learn more about the contributor.

Have your submission featured next, contribute your discovery!

Alcam Holiday Home, Kandy

Lasith — Mon, 14 Feb 2011 20:31:12 +0000

Facilities & cleanliness:

No. 51 Mahasen Mawatha
Hantana Place
Kandy

Hospitality:

Location & accessibility:
Read about our rating scale

Getting there

Getting closer to nature and escaping the busy streets of Kandy, doesn’t get better than at the homely confines of the Alcam Holiday Home. A short 15 minute drive from the city center, sitting atop the Hantana Mountain range on the outskirts of a rain-forest, the Alcam Holiday Home is tranquility at its best.

Given the limited passing traffic its best you take your own transportation there. However if you don’t have any, the hosts at Alcam would gladly help arrange a tuk-tuk or vehicle rental to take you exploring the city and back.

Treat for Nature Lovers with Breathtaking Views

XML File doesn't existSituated on the outskirts of a natural forest, the stay at Alcam could be quite a treat for nature lovers. Its quite often that you see wild-boar wander into the guest-home property to feed off the kitchen scraps. During my visit, a porcupine had tumbled into an open pit and had to be set free. The staff also spoke of several leopard sightings along the edge of the forest.

While the hotel keeps opens a trail leading into the forest, its not advised to venture in unaccompanied by a government certified wilderness tracker which the folks at Alcam could help arrange.

Breathtaking views are not lost at the Alcam guest-home thats perched on a mountain top and overlooking the Kandy city. They also offer a large common open deck area thats a favorite among visiting sun worshipers. However you don’t need to leave your room to catch the views as each room is furnished with large unobstructed windows.

Entertaining Host

XML File doesn't existSmall, family owned Alcam is a true example of Sri Lankan hospitality. Your host is the lively owner, Chrysantha Rodrigo, who lives on the property and is readily accessible. You often see him chatting with the guests and may even fall victim to one of his harmless pranks. In the evenings he has been known to play a tune or two and entertain the guests with some classic Sinatra.

Ideal Escape From the City

The Alcam Holiday Home is ideal if you are looking to enjoy nature and escape the chaotic city while staying within a short drive of all of Kandy’s cultural attractions.

Facilities & Equipment

TV in all rooms.
Fan in all rooms.
IDD calling in all rooms.
Hot water in all rooms.
Common balcony access for all guests.
Common dining access for all guests.

STW 2: Fire Dancers

Guest — Sun, 13 Feb 2011 18:29:57 +0000

Contributed by: Hiranya Samarasekera from Rajagiriya, Sri Lanka. @hiranyas on Twitter

This photo was captured during a village temple’s annual Perahera (procession). A Perahera is a popular cultural tradition at many Buddhist temples in Sri Lanka, of which the fire-dance is a major highlight usually seen at the beginning of the parade. This photo attempts to capture the beauty of these fire-dancers.

I randomly stumbled upon this shot as I was browsing my Flickr groups and thought how appropriate? This is indeed serendipity! Hiranya kindly agreed to submit it for this feature, along with several others that I will feature in the coming weeks.

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This feature was provided by Hiranya Samarasekera, please visit his Flickr photostream or find him on Twitter to learn more about the contributor.

Have your submission featured next, contribute your discovery!

Serene Garden Hotel, Kandy

Lasith — Sun, 13 Feb 2011 18:19:27 +0000

Facilities & cleanliness:

#189 Rajapihilla Mawatha
Kandy

Hospitality:

Location & accessibility:
Read about our rating scale

Getting there

XML File doesn't existI was in Kandy for a day and decided to explore some of the many independent guest-homes and hotels that have popped up of late. Some of the nicest city hotels you’d find are located on Rajapihilla Mawatha, overlooking the Temple of the Tooth and Kandy Lake, and thats where I stumbled upon The Serene Garden Hotel.

Less than 2 km from the Kandy Lake, Serene Garden Hotel is a short walk from all major attractions and is about 5 minute walk from the spectacular views of the Kandy Lookout point on Rajapihilla Mawatha. There are plenty of Tuk-Tuk’s and transportation for hire nearby, though all you really need are a good pair of walking shoes.

Modern & Friendly

XML File doesn't existFounded in March 2008, the property offers modern and clean facilities with each room having its own private balcony, most overlooking the Kandy Lake. Rooms are also well equipped to modern standards WiFi access, TV, air-conditioning and hot water. The hotel has several public spaces like a pool, a bar and lunge area to unwind and while away the time.

As a family owned, independent property, the hotel employs local staff thats quite knowledgeable of the surrounding neighborhoods. Extremely friendly and some even speaking a foreign language, the staff is very accommodating and happy to provide insight on things to do. As a slightly larger hotel property (over 30 rooms), there is no “live in” owner so don’t expect a personal greeting by your “host”. However you are sure to run into the friendly Assistant Manager, Mr. Premathilaka, walking around the lounge areas and talking to guests.

Ideal Base to Explore Kandy

Serene Garden Hotel is a great city hotel and an ideal central base to explore the historic city of Kandy. However if seeking a quite and tranquil resort to escape the city chaos, this may not be for you.

Facilities & Equipment

WiFi internet access in all rooms.
IDD calling in all rooms.
TV in all rooms.
Air-conditioning and fan in all rooms.
Balcony view in all rooms.
Hot water in all rooms.
Common pool access for all guests.
Common restaurant and bar access for all guests.

Camping by Lipton’s Seat in Haputale

Bhagi — Sat, 12 Feb 2011 07:36:02 +0000

Contributing author: Sivagnanasundaram Bhagiraj
Location: Badulla District, Uva Province
Date of visit: January 2011

Bhagi and his friends explore Haputale, a town in Sri Lanka’s hill country. A place truly “off the beaten path” you are unlikely to see any foreign tourists and guaranteed to catch some breathtaking landscape views. Best of all, all of natures treasures enjoyed at Haputale, including the views from Lipton’s Seat, are free!

Getting There

XML File doesn't exist“Hey machang (Sinhalese for ‘buddy’) wake up!” were the friendly words from my friend, waking me up from a deep slumber. I wiped the mist off the windows and looked out, it was dawn and we were at the Haputale railway station. We had journeyed for 9 hours over a distance of nearly 200 km from the Colombo Fort railway station and through the scenic highlands of Sri Lanka.

Sir Thomas Lipton

The first objective during our 2 day trip was to visit Lipton’s seat, the highest point of the mountain ranges out there and named after the famed tea planter, Sir Thomas Lipton.

XML File doesn't existSir Thomas Lipton was a Scottish Tea Barron whose name is found in the hot beverage isle of most grocery stores worldwide. From 1870 to 1888, he rapidly expanded his parents’ single grocery store in Glasgow to nearly 300 stores across the United Kingdom. Realizing the potential to cut-out the middlemen at the London Auction Market, he visited Sri Lanka in the 1890s to partner with James Taylor (father or ‘Ceylon tea’) and import directly from the growers. This inspired the popular advertising slogan “Direct from the tea garden to the tea pot.”

It is said Sir Lipton would come to the Lipton’s Seat look-out point to survey his burgeoning empire of tea plantations at the Dambatenne Estate.

The Drive to Lipton’s Seat

XML File doesn't existThe Haputale train station is located right in town and soon as we got off we went for some breakfast at a decent bakery. Our group of six then hired a mini-van from a nearby bus depot and set-off to Lipton’s Seat.

Our journey snaked us through hills and turns. I won’t forget being completely surrounded by the misty mountain ranges, cool breeze and the rustling of tall trees. The landscape around was dotted with lines of local tea plucking women carrying baskets on their shoulders and groups of school children waving as we drove by. In the background we had birds chirping and the hum of our old mini-van engine. There was no chatter amongst us since we too busy admiring the beauty of Haputale. We did also bring along a few local boys as our tour guides who explained the many places we were passing through.

“Get There Before 7 am”

XML File doesn't existA thirty minute ride took us to a small but busy village surrounded entirely by green mountains and tea estates, not too far away from the main Dambetenne factory. Most people we came across were mainly Tamils with a few Sinhalese around, but foreign tourists were far and few. Another 30 minutes brought us to Lipton’s Seat, a cliff with views rivaling those at World’s End in Horton Plains.

At first glance, we were surrounded by mountains. It is said that on a clear day you could see the entire southern country towards the coastal edge. Unfortunate for us we could only see a few stretches of land as the entire place was covered by thick mist. We had been advised by the locals to get there before 7 am since the mist sets in quite thick after 8.

Outdoors Lunch Taking in the Scenic Beauty

It was 11:30 and one of my friends shout “Shall we cook machang?” Our meager morning breakfast didn’t hold us for too long. We setup campfire and started preparing lunch at a corner near Lipton’s seat. It was quite hard locating good drinking water so we headed to a nearby village to ask the locals. They were more than helpful, even letting us charge our phones and use the toilet facilities.

As the only one with a camera, I had a free pass from any cooking and was charged with documenting the trip. I couldn’t resist the urge to go around the hills of Lipton’s seat and photograph its magnificent views, the likes of which i have never seen before.

After an hour of photography, I returned just in time when my friends had served lunch. Having an outdoor lunch prepared by ourselves at one of Sri Lanka’s most beautiful places, and having it while taking in the scenic beauty and cool breeze is something words cannot express — you have to experience it yourself!

Evening Campfire

XML File doesn't existAs dusk set in the mist settled and daylight faded away. We started setting up camp but it was quite a challenge as it was extremely windy and the temperature dropped significantly. We didn’t expect the sudden change, although we later learned it was quite normal after 5 pm. Se we decided to descend down to a lower level, walking down a gravel road which was almost completely covered by the mist. It was extremely difficult to see what was ahead and a hazard to any driver.

Fifteen minutes walking through the windy mist brought us to a small building used by the locals as a resting spot and thats where we decided to camp. We were thankful to two kind townies who volunteered to keep us company in the unfamiliar place. If you decide to camp there be sure to bring your sweaters as we sure wished we did. The night continued with a blazing camp fire, a delicious BBQ, jovial singing and great conversation. Each and everyone enjoyed every minute, being out in nature by Lipton’s seat made it so.

Paradise for Nature Lovers & Photographers

XML File doesn't existThe next morning, I was the first up at around 6:30 am and I didn’t want the mist obstructing the view from Lipton’s Seat as it had the previous day. By the time we got our stuff together and ran through the bypass road back to the top of it was nearly 7:45 and the southern coastal line had already faded away.

However we did see far more hills, rivers, roads and towns that we missed the previous day. Its clear why the Great Sir Lipton chose this point as a lookout — I am sure it wasn’t just to survey the lands but also to take in its beautiful panoramic views. All I could say about being in the middle of heavenly nature is that it was truly as relaxing as meditation!

The sun was bright that day. We spent a few hours taking group shots and then got ready to head back down to Haputale town. I really didn’t want to leave the place that truly was paradise for nature lovers and photographers alike, and not to forget a nice romantic spot.

Our Descent Back Down

The descent wasn’t easy with the mist low and the sun bright. We had a 7 km hike back down along the main road and few bypassing shortcuts. Each landscape we passed has us craving to visit again.

As we got halfway down, we came across a truck loaded with fresh vegetable produce plucked from nearby villages and a few minutes later it was loaded with us as well. In about an hour we were soon aboard a bus to Bandarawela, a large hill country town from where we could get another bus back to Colombo. I have traveled to quite a few places since but I am yet to find one equally interesting, mesmerizing, and unforgettable as I did Haputale.

Travel Tips to Remember

A few things to keep in mind when you make your trip to Haputale:

You can get to Haputale by train or bus. However going by train will give you a chance to take in the scenic views of Sri Lankan highlands. See our links page for the railway website.
You could negotiate a good fare on a vehicle rental to take you to Lipton’s Seat at the Haputale bus depot. You can also take a bus from Haputale to Dambetenna Tea Factory and then walk the 7 km hike from there.
Get a professional guide or a local to help you navigate. You can also ask the tea factory for instructions.
Bring enough food and water. Don’t rely solely on the water from local villages, if absolutely necessary be sure to boil it!
Bring an umbrella or raincoat, the rain suddenly pours out of nowhere!
Locals are very friendly and quite helpful. Don’t hesitate to ask for help if needed.
To catch the complete panoramic view of the south coastal line from the top of Lipton’s Seat, be sure to get there before 7:30 AM.
Avoid being on top after 5 pm as the temperature drops rapidly with high wind currents. The mist greatly reduces visibility, posing a hazard for vehicles.
Haputale is not only about Lipton’s Seat. You could also visit St. Catherine’s Seat, another look-out point and several waterfalls nearby. Be sure to take in the beauty of tea estates, the factory and local villages.

“Thomas Lipton”, Wikipedia

STW 1: Old Town in Galle

Guest — Sun, 06 Feb 2011 18:29:02 +0000

Contributed by: Leszek Żądło from Tolkmicko, Poland

One of my Flickr favorites is this shot of the Galle Fort and lighthouse taken by Leszek during his trip to Sri Lanka in 2008. The Galle Fort was originally built the Portuguese in the 16th century and modified by the Dutch a century later. Over 400 years later, the fort still stands as one of the world’s best examples of colonial fortifications. I love the composition of clouds and coastal waters, claiming this pic the inaugural feature of “Serendipity this week”.

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This feature was provided by Leszek Żądło, please visit his Flickr photostream to learn more about the contributor.

Have your submission featured next, contribute your discovery!

Tea Plantations: The Pedro Estate

Lasith — Thu, 03 Feb 2011 06:30:48 +0000

Location: Nuwara Eliya, Central Province
Date of visit: 21st December 2010

My visit to Nuwara Eliya wouldn’t have been complete without exploring the hill country’s tea estates that blanket most of its surrounding mountains. You pass several during your drive in from Kandy, most notably the Blue Field Tea Gardens near Ramboda Falls and the Mackwoods Tea Estate in Labookellie.

Sri Lanka’s Primary Export Crop

XML File doesn't existTea is Sri Lanka’s primary export crop, reaching about 280 kilos exported in 2010 and earning USD 1.4 bn or nearly 3% of the country’s GDP. Although only the 4th largest tea producer in the world, behind China, India and Kenya, Sri Lanka shares the title of the largest exporter with Kenya each having about 20% market share.

Compared to its global counterparts, the Sri Lankan tea industry has been successful in developing a brand for itself. “Ceylon Tea” fetches a premium in the “English Breakfast Tea” category and its auction sale prices are over 50% more than competitors.

James Taylor, Father of Ceylon Tea

XML File doesn't existSurprisingly however tea was not native to Sri Lanka and was a gift by the British colonists. It was first introduced to the country in 1824, having been brought from China and planted in the Royal Botanical Gardens in Kandy (for non-commercial purposes). It wasn’t until the 1860′s that crop started gaining commercial popularity.

A Scotsman names James Taylor marked the birth of the Ceylon tea industry in 1867 by establishing the first tea estate on a small 19 acre plot in Loolecondra, Kandy. Tea production got a further boost in 1869 when most of country’s coffee plantations, the main commercial crop at the time, were destroyed by a fungus and most planters switched to tea.

Taylor had gained some basic knowledge of tea cultivation in India and conducted some initial processing experiments at his bungalow in Loolecondra and hand rolling the tea leaves. By 1872, Taylor had developed a fully equipped factory and, in 1873, sold his first stock at the London auction with wide acclaim.

From just a few pounds exported in 1879, the Sri Lankan tea industry grew to have exported over 80 tons by 1880, and its success is credited mainly to the efforts and perseverance of James Taylor. Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, author of the Sherlock Holmes series, remarked that “…the tea fields of Ceylon are as true a monument to courage as is the lion at Waterloo”.

Tea Pickers: S. Janagee and Friends

XML File doesn't existTea leaves from over a hundred hectares per estate are still hand picked to ensure quality. Most estates employ an army of tea pickers, predominantly Tamil women, and although they are vital to the industry, they are sadly yet to share in its prosperity.

The overwhelming majority of today’s plantation workers are direct descendants of laborers brought form Tamil Nadu, India by British Colonists. Commonly called “Estate Tamils” to distinguish form the “Jaffna Tamils” who inhabited the country pre-colonialism, these workers are a largely marginalized group and even till 1984 most were not even recognized as Sri Lankan citizens.

Today most of these workers still remain greatly underpaid, making about USD 3 or LKR 300 a day while a daily-wage laborer earns about LKR 800 a day. Most still live in “estate lines”, isolated from the general population, although the housing conditions have improved considerably from what it used to be.

XML File doesn't existWhile walking through the hills surrounding Nuwara Eliya, I came upon a group of tea pickers. As I stopped and grabbed my camera for some pics they waved me in and I soon met the whole group. Language was a bit of a barrier since only a few spoke a little Sinhalese but I did get to meet S. Janagee who helped with the introductions and told me they were employed by the Pedro Tea Estate. None of them has seem a picture of themselves before and were extremely excited to have their pictures taken. So promising to send them some copies, I got some wonderful shots of the colorful group.

Pedro Tea Estate

XML File doesn't existThe closest tea estate to the Nuwara Eliya town center is the Pedro Estate, located in Boralanda about 3 km away. I called up my friend Raju, the tuk-tuk operator I met on my first day in town, and for LKR 400 he took me on the return trip. The estate welcomes vistors to tour their factory, charging LKR 50 from locals and LKR 100 from foreigners.

Established in 1885, the Pedro Test Estate spans nearly 670 hectares of land area and employs about 1,250 laborers with another 50 in administrative staff. The company differentiates itself by emphasizing its “ethical” business practices regarding treatment of estate workers through community cooperatives, and improved housing and education facilities.

The estate produces tea primarily for sale in the open auction market but also packages some under the brands “Mahagastotte” and “Lover’s Leap” for sale at their guest welcome center. I tried a delicious cup of their ‘Single Garden Tea’ variety after my factory tour and recommend picking up a pack if you come across one.

Camping at Wasgamuwa National Park

Bhagi — Fri, 28 Jan 2011 15:13:15 +0000

Contributing author: Sivagnanasundaram Bhagiraj
Location: Polonnaruwa District, North-Central Province; Matale District, Central Province
Date of visit: July 2009

Bhagi and his friends explore one of the country’s historic nature treasure troves, the Wasgamuwa National Park. With significant historic value, these woodlands were originally declared as nature reserve in 1938 for its breadth of flora and fauna, and covers about 39,000 hectares in Sri Lanka’s Central and North-Central provinces.

Getting There & Park Timings

Wasgamuwa National Park is located within the Polonnaruwa and Matale Districts, about 225 km or 6 hour drive from Colombo. To get there from the Kandy-Mahiyangana Road, exit at Hasalaka and proceed via Wilgamuwa. Alternatively is coming from Matale or Polonnaruwa, you could reach via Laggala and Wilgamuwa (respectively).

This National park is open to visitors from 6 am to 6 pm and its best to visit during the months of January to March.

Historic Battlefield, Dotted with Ancient Ruins

XML File doesn't existThere is historical evidence to suggest that this area had been inhabited before the birth of Christ. Yudangana Pitiya, located in the park, has been identified as an ancient battleground and stage for the historic battle in the 2nd century BC between two great Kings of the Annuradhapura Kingdom, Chola Tamil King Elara (reigned 205 – 161 BC) and Sinhala King Dutugemunu (reigned 161 – 137 BC).

Today you will find historic ruins of Chulangani Chaitya, built in the 1st century AD by King Mahadathiya Mahanaga (reigned 09 – 21 AD). Its circumference, measured at 966 feet (294 m) is larger than King Dutugemunu’s Ruwanwelisaya Chaitya located in Annuradhapura. Artifacts that have been recovered from bricks within the Chulangani Chaitya include an bowl used by the last Lankan monarch, (reigned 1798 – 1815 AC) and several bronze statues. These are now kept in the Yudangana vihara.

Further ruins found within the park are of the Malagamuwa, Wilmitiya, Dasthota irrigation tanks as well as the Kalinga Yoda Ela canal, built by the great King Maha Parakramabahu I (reigned 1153 – 1186 AC), the last Lankan monarch to have unified the country.

Wildlife & Nature Treasure Hunting

XML File doesn't existIn a simple one line sentence — we went “nature” treasure hunting at Wasgamuwa. Our trip was filled with wildlife, strange looking plants, weird bugs and dramatic changes to terrain ranging from riverine forest, grasslands to wetlands .There was a moment where all of us were running wild along with its wild animals.

Wasgamuwa is famous for elephants who are known to more accustomed to the wilderness. Along with the herds of wild elephants, we were blessed to see sloth bear, leopards, sambar, spotted & barking deer, wild boar, wild buffalo and many other animals. The name of the park itself was the words “Walas Gamuwa”, “Walasa” is Sinhala for Sloth bear and “Gamuwa” means a wood.

Camping in the Wilderness

XML File doesn't existArriving at Wasgamuwa after a 6 hour journey from Colombo, we hoped to sleep without our tents and under the bright beautiful moon. It was a thought that had intrigued me and wouldn’t have been a bad idea at all. However having brought our camping tents all the way from Colombo, we eventually set them up and did end-up sleeping with a roof over us. What an experience it was sleeping in the middle of the jungle without basic modern facilities and the Mahaweli and Amban rivers separating us from the outside world.

Having our tour guide with us at all times each and every one of us explored the land with our torch lights. It was a tremendous experience! Words cannot explain the feeling of having a wild elephant just a few meters away from where you sleep. It is truly something you need to experience on your own.

Mesmerized by The Jungle

XML File doesn't existHaving had a thrilling night, we started the next day early with our cameras on hand and headed off on a safari. Of nearly 430 species of birds found in Sri Lanka about 140 reside at Wasgamuwa and although we were in a jeep, the sound of its engine was quickly drowned in by the melodic chirping of birds.

With old trees towering above you, it is hard not to be impressed by the jungle scenery interwoven with historic ruins of aqueducts and religious sites. What i found most fascinating was the historic battlefield, Yudangana Pitiya. Its landscape complete with chattering birds, wild animals, and harmless small butterflies circling your head is simply mesmerizing.

Following Elephants

XML File doesn't existWhat we saw quite abundantly were elephants. They were minding their own business, and us ours — i.e. following them and taking photos. After an exciting and breathtaking safari trip we headed back to camp to spend yet another night under the stars.

Swimming in the Mahaweli River

The next morning was mostly spent on swimming in the Mahaweli river and marveling some of its bizarre plants. By noon we had to make our way back to Colombo and return to our normal lives. All-in-all my camping and safari experience at Wasgamuwa has been a highlight of my trip. Yes, Wasgamuwa is one of Sri Lanka’s true beauties and is a paradise for photographers and bird watchers alike.

“Wasgamuwa National Park”, Wikipedia

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