Discovering the Birds of Ecuador

Paz de las Aves - Jewel of the Cloud Forest

noreply@blogger.com (ecuadorrebel) — Tue, 27 Dec 2011 14:27:00 +0000

Crimson-rumped Toucanet
(Aulacorhynchus haematopygus)

Paz de las Aves is a small private reserve located well offthe beaten path but one of the most popular in northwest Ecuador. I would justlike to add some personal comments to the article that I wrote for HubPages, which you can read here.

The small farm of Angel Paz is not an easy location to findand the 5:30 AM arrive time requirement can be rather daunting, but the abilityto observe species that are endangered or seldom spotted is well worth theeffort. Giant, Yellow-breasted and Mustached Antpitta, among other obscurebirds of the cloud forest understory, make a visit to this simple farmland atwitcher’s dream.

My first visit to Paz de las Aves was with a friend severalyears ago. Our primary interest was the Cock-of-the-Rock lek where we were tolda view of these exotic birds was almost guaranteed. It was a little difficultdriving my sedan along the 4 km. stretch of dirt road to get to the reserve butwe arrived without mishap. There was another group of birders at the entrancepreparing for the trek through the forest so they could arrive at the hidebefore dawn.

Maria: Giant Antpitta
(Grallaria gigantea)

When we arrived at the desired location we were in for adisappointment. Not a squawk or grunt could be heard from the amorous males. Wehad come on one of the few days out of the year that they all appeared to havesecured a date with a mate. Our disenchantment was short lived, however, whenthis bulbous, brick colored bird came hopping down the trail to meet us. Angelintroduced us to Maria, a Giant Antpitta that he had trained to come out in theopen for morsels of worm. She would come quite close, within 4 to 5 meters, andpose for photos. The sight of this endangered species helped us forget aboutour previous quarry, instead concentrating on admiring this beauty of nature. We saw several other rarities during our morning adventureand spent a wonderful time conversing with the other travelers over breakfast.It was a good day with new ticks added to our lists and friends appended to ouremail register.

My most recent visit to Paz de las Aves brought some newrevelations. The Cock-of-the-Rock were very active that morning, much to thedelight of the young lady I was guiding. Maria had not been seen in severalmonths but there was another Giant Antpitta that came for the spoils. Angel hadbuilt a new fruit feeder, the original being abandoned because the Sickle-wingedGuans had taken it over. The road into the property was a little easier todrive, although it will probably never be paved. (I much prefer it that way)

On this visit I was able to spend a considerable amount oftime with Angel and his brother Rodrigo who is now helping with the groups.Neither of them speaks English so I interpreted for my companion. Angel had justsecured a loan with the bank so that he could build a lodge on the property toaccommodate visitors. He sounded a little apprehensive about this endeavor butI understand that this is a big step for a former farmer/new conservationist. Iam sure that with the encouragement of his family and friends that this will bea success.

Black-chinned Mountain-Tanager
(Anisognathus notabilis)

The best part of my visit with the brothers Paz was when wetalked about the birds on the reserve. Angel’s demeanor changed from that of anapprentice businessman to the gentle manner of a father. When he talked aboutthe Antpittas it was as though he was bragging on his children. There is such aclose connection between him and his wards that one can almost hear a tear inhis voice. I saw this also when we were out on the trails; the way he protectedhis charges from too close encroachment from the less sensitive visitors. It isthis empathy that he has with his environment that draws me back.

I recommend a visit to Paz de las Aves for any birder whowishes to observe nature at its finest. But I also advocate watching Angel andhis brother as they lead you around the reserve. You may not understand thewords that he speaks, but you can definitely feel his heart as he expounds onthe virtues of his children.

Yellow House Trails - Hacienda San Vicente

noreply@blogger.com (ecuadorrebel) — Sat, 10 Dec 2011 17:26:00 +0000

I have been very busy lately and haven’t had much time forwriting so I have gotten behind on my blog updates. I hope to remedy that overthe next few weeks.

I just completed an article on Yellow House Trails (Hacienda SanVicente) in Mindo Ecuador. In thatarticle I concentrated on describing how to reach the area and the birdingtrails available. I try not to promote any particular lodge in my articles asthey are more for general information, but here I can express my personalopinion.

Yellow House has become my place to stay when in the Mindoarea. The rooms are very spacious and inexpensive and you cannot beat theGarzon family for hospitality and friendliness. I recommend it to everyone whoasks me for a place to stay in the area and I have never heard a complaintabout the accommodations or the birding opportunities. I know of no other place that can bebeaten for price and comfort.

Social Flycatcher (Myiozetetes similis)

The few articles that I have seen concerning the YellowHouse trails state that they see more birds on the walk up to the main primaryforest than they do once entering. To some extent I can agree with them but Ihave to explain why I believe this to be the case. You can, on average, seeover 50 species of birds around the lodge itself on a daily basis. There areseveral Squirrel Cuckoos that visit the trees in the early morning and thereare also Rufous Motmot on a regular basis. Many people spend time observingthese beautiful species before setting out on the 20-minute walk up to theforest.

The problem is that the hike up the hill has such anabundance of birds that the 20 minutes turns into an hour or more. By the timemost visitors get to the main trail it has become late morning and the activityhas slowed down considerably. You also have the fact that more species areobserved at the forest borders than in the dense foliage. However, if you takethe time to search the understory you can be rewarded with some greatdiscoveries.

There is a Cock-of-the-Rock lek on the reserve but thisrequires an early morning start time and a walk through the darkness to getthere at the proper moment. If you have to have breakfast before starting yourday then this is easily remedied. If you mention this to Maria Elena the nightbefore she will prepare you a bag breakfast to take with you and will set itout on the porch for you to carry along.

Be prepared for biting insects, whether at Yellow House orany other area of Mindo. The mosquitoes are not as much of a pest as theno-see-ums. The itch from their bite can last a week or more. I suggest longpants (no shorts) and long sleeve shirts in addition to some form of insectrepellent.

Buff-tailed Coronet (Boissonneaua jardini)

The charge for taking the trails is minimal if you do notstay at the lodge, and access to the reserve is included in the price oflodging if you do spend the night. I find that this is a great place to set upa base when birding the Mindo-Nambillo Protected Forest. When I return to myroom at night I still have the opportunity to see various species from theporch or go out in the evenings in search of owls or the Common Potoo thatfrequents the area around the main house.

If you can speak a little Spanish I recommend spending alittle time talking with Maria Elena, her sister Inez and her mother Carlotta.They are wonderful people and will make you feel like one of the family. Evenif you don’t speak Spanish you will still enjoy sitting with them and smiling.They serve breakfast in their home and this is a great way to start your day.They grow fruit on the property and they serve fresh fruit juice any time ofthe day. Sit down, savor the sweet nectar and enjoy a wonderful time in therainforest.

Birding Quito Ecuador

noreply@blogger.com (ecuadorrebel) — Mon, 23 May 2011 14:56:00 +0000

American Kestrel (Falco sparverius)

The city of Quito Ecuador is a sprawling mass of people, buildings and traffic. It is a starting point for many vacations and birding adventures but never the focus. However, most travelers have at least one free day before starting their primary objective and are not sure what to do during this time. I have been asked on many occasions if there are parks or reserves that can easily be reached for a quick day of birding. For this purpose I am writing this article.

When we live in an area for several years we have a tendency to become oblivious to the wonderful avifauna surrounding us. However, we fail to realize that for those who are visiting for the first time, these birds that we consider commonplace are a boon to the uninitiated.

When walking the streets of Quito there are a number of species that you are guaranteed to encounter. Rufous-collared Sparrows, Great Thrush, and Eared Doves are everywhere. There are, nonetheless, some birds that are a little less commonplace in their appearance yet easily observed while touring the city. Sparkling Violetear and Black-tailed Trainbearer are frequently encountered in the downtown areas and are not extremely shy when foraging for food.

Sparkling Violetear
(Colibri coruscans)

There are a couple of parks that are easily reached by taxi and offer a greater abundance of opportunities to observe many species. The Botanical Gardens that is located in the center of the city at Carolina Park is a haven for many birds and some migrants as well. The Tennessee Warbler makes a regular visit during its migration period. Other birds that may be encountered are Southern-yellow Grosbeak, Cinerious Conebill and American Kestrel.

Metropolitan Park is along the eastern ridge of the city and harbors many species in its vast wooded area. Rusty Flowerpiercer, Tufted Tit-tyrant, Hooded Siskin, Yellow-bellied Seedeater and Crimson-mantled Woodpeckers frequent the area and provide for an enjoyable day of birding.

When touring the city or outlying areas be on the lookout for some unusual birds that may be passing through. I once observed a Great Egret perched high in a tree next to one of the large malls in Valley de los Chillos. There are a couple of reservoirs in the city and it may have been stopping there on its way to more productive habitat. I saw it the following day as well flying across the valley.

Quito has much to offer in the areas of architecture, culture and entertainment but do not rule out the abundance of avifauna that are available for the viewer. With a little patience and observation you can start your birding adventure early and record some new lifers.

Visiting Rio Silanche Bird Sanctuary

noreply@blogger.com (ecuadorrebel) — Fri, 06 May 2011 14:59:00 +0000

Masked Tityra (Tityra semifasciata)

Over the past month I have made a couple of trips to Rio Silanche Bird Sanctuary. (Follow link for specific details on the reserve.) It is not a place I normally try to tackle on a day trip from Quito but it can be done. One of its strong points is its canopy tower allowing for a more comfortable view of birds that inhabit the canopy and understory. Due to the deforestation of the surrounding area the reserve encounters many flocks and wanderers looking for a place to rest.

Aside from the viewing advantage of the tower, it is a great place to meet people who share the same interest. On my first visit to Rio Silanche this past month I had the pleasure of making the acquaintance of Jean Paul Perret, founder of Neotropical Birding Tours based in Peru. He was spending some time in Ecuador, scouting the various birding areas. We had several hours to photograph and discuss the various bird species visiting the trees surrounding the tower that morning.

Bronze-winged Parrot
(Pionus chalcopterus)

It was a great morning for birding as there were several flocks passing through during our stay. Chocó Toucans were quite prevalent and the eye level vantage point made for some great photos. Of course, where there are Chocós, you will also find the Pale-mandibled Aracari. (Also called the Collared or Stripe-billed Aracari). A small group of Bronze-winged Parrots perched near the tower and a male White-tailed Trogon paid us a visit and stuck around for a few pics.

One of the highlights of the morning was an extended visit by a White-necked Puffbird. It perched in a nearly bare tree a short distance from the tower. It was an impressive sight as it sat proudly on the limb perusing the countryside. We could hear some White-bearded Manakins clacking away in the forest below but they never showed themselves. All in all it was productive morning and especially so because I met a new friend in Jean Paul.

My second visit to the tower was with Pearl Jordan, the young lady who came on a mission of seeing 8,000 birds by her 80^th birthday. (You can read the full account of her trip here.) We arrived early in hopes of seeing some new lifers for her. Along with the species that I had encountered on my previous visit we were able to see the Masked Tityra and the Rufous-winged Tanager. (I saw the Bay-headed Tanager, which is more common, on the first trip.) Unfortunately we had to cut our time in the tower short because it was a clear day and the intense heat of the sun was making our stay unbearable.

We took the main trail around the property in search of the Brown Wood-Rail. We heard one clamoring in the forest near the creek but were unable to get it to show itself. We did, however, encounter the Purple-chested Hummingbird, a Chocó endemic and not very common. Since this was one of Pearl’s target birds it made for a productive day.

Rio Silanche Bird Sanctuary, a property of the Mindo Cloud Forest foundation, is a great place for the visiting bird fancier. It canopy tower lends itself to wonderful views of many species and a great place to meet new friends. I would recommend adding it to any northwest Ecuador birding adventure.

Days 9 and 10 of the NW Ecuador Birding Adventure

noreply@blogger.com (ecuadorrebel) — Mon, 18 Apr 2011 14:39:00 +0000

Plain Xenops

We had left some flexibility in our schedule so that we might be able to backtrack a little to pick up some of the birds we had missed. With this in mind we returned to Milpe Bird Sanctuary before our journey to Quito. The Yellow-collared Chlorophonia had been spotted there 2 weeks earlier and we were hoping we would have a second chance at seeing it.

Plumbeous Sierra-Finch

Furnariids were quite active that morning with Woodcreepers, Foliage-gleaners and Xenops in abundance. Motmots and Quetzals were calling from various trees filling the morning with squawks and grunts. We were disappointed by the Chlorophonia but did locate a couple of other species on Pearl’s list. Since the sun was warming the day the bird activity was dropping off and we decided to head to Quito.

While making the return trip to the capital city we discussed our tactics for the last day. There were a few high-altitude birds left on the list so we thought that Cotopaxi might be a good bet for their discovery.

Early Friday morning we headed for the park with high hopes of finding a couple more targets. It was an overcast morning but at the time there was no rain so we hoped for the best. Upon approaching Lake Limpiopungo we encounter several Carunculated Caracara foraging for food along the paramo tundra. Recent rains had caused the lake to flood and the parking area was inundated with water. We were able to secure a dry location to park with access to the trail.

Carunculated Caracara

Andean Gulls, Coots and Lapwing were in abundance as usual but other than that the bird activity was lower than expected. Not even the Tawny Antpitta could be heard amongst the paramo grasses. This may have been due to the excessive rains that the sierra had been experiences. Undaunted we walked the lake trail in search of our quarry. We had glimpses of the Ecuadorian Hillstar as it fed on some of the high-altitude flora. Brown-backed Chat-tyrant, Plumbeous Sierra-Finch and Plain-colored Seedeaters all showed their presence. We were able to see the Tawny-rumped Tyrannulet for a brief moment, which added to Pearl’s target list. Around 11:00 AM a light misty rain began and we returned to the car to call it a day.

In summary we had a good ten days of birding. Of the 46 species on Pearl’s list we were able to encounter 22 birds. Since we were concentrating on her targets rather than on bird count we did not spend time at feeders in the various reserves. We were also rather lax at recording species other than those that were our quarry. However, at the end of each day we would write down the birds that we recalled encountering. That list included over 175 species in all, some of them rare or uncommon. Pearl was happy with our accomplishments for the trip and we are in the process of planning her next excursion to the Amazon basin in search of other difficult birds. Meanwhile she will be taking her next trip on a Russian ship to Spitzbergen. We wish her luck in her adventures and know that we will see her again soon.

Day 7 and 8

noreply@blogger.com (ecuadorrebel) — Sat, 16 Apr 2011 17:48:00 +0000

Black-throated Trogon

We continued our search of the northwest by visiting Mangaloma Reserve. This is a 200 ha (500 ac) forest located 7 km off the main highway north of Pedro Vicente Maldanado. Reservations are required prior to entry but it is worth the effort. Making a right hand turn a little south of Km 104 (there is a sign designating the reserve) you travel along dirt roads until you get to the main gate. After ringing a bell for entry the caretaker will come out to open the gate.

Mangaloma is a great place to find some difficult species such as the Orange-fronted Barbet, Rufous-crowned Antpitta, Long-wattled Umbrellabird, and the Banded-ground Cuckoo. Only one of these birds was on Pearl’s list but in addition to the Orange-fronted Barbet we encountered the Plumbeous Forest-Falcon. Another great sighting was the Black-throated Trogon.

If making a trip to Mangaloma Reserve, good boots are a must. Trails are quite muddy but passable. There are two side trails in addition to the main path. They recently opened a new route leading to additional areas of the property.

On the 8^th day we went to Rio Silanche, about 20 km further west. This reserve is part of the Mindo Cloudforest Foundation and a 3 day pass can be acquired at any of their four bird sanctuaries, which includes Milpe Bird Sanctuary, Milpe Gardens, Rio Silanche and their newest reserve near the Bellavista lodge. This pass provides entry to any and all of these locations.

Rufous-winged Tanager

There is a canopy tower a short distance from the entrance at Rio Silanche that provides a great place to view birds at their level. White-tailed Trogon, Lineated Woodpeckers and Choco Toucans were abundant this day. However, the Rufous-winged Tanager was probably the highlight of the morning. Although “The Birds of Ecuador” by Ridgely and Greenfield indicate that the Rufous-winged and the Bay-headed Tanagers have never been found together in Ecuador, I now have photographic proof that they do, as I was able to capture them both with a camera at Rio Silanche.

After spending most of the morning in the tower, we decided to walk the property to see what else may be present. We heard a Brown Wood-rail when we approached the creek but were unable to coax it into the open for a good look. We did run across a flock of Bronze-winged Parrots feeding about 2 meters above the ground in some small trees but they were too embedded in the growth to get any decent photos. The sun came out with a vengeance and the heat was overwhelming for us and the birds, as activity dropped off quickly. By the end of the day we had brought Pearls hit-list to 18 species. The next two days would be spent searching for some of the more illusive birds on the list.

Day 5 and 6

noreply@blogger.com (ecuadorrebel) — Fri, 15 Apr 2011 02:30:00 +0000

Collared Trogo

There was no Internet available the last few days so I have to cover a lot of ground.

On day 5 we went on up to Bellavista Lodge to see if we could add anything to Pearl’s list. After talking to several people at the reserve we weren’t given much encouragement but we led to believe that there was a possibility of seeing the White-faced Nunbird along the Research Station road. Not to be discouraged we parked along the road and began walking. After playing some birdsong we began to get a response.

Although the Nunbird continued to answer it would never show itself. After about an hour of unrewarding communication we decided that our efforts were futile and returned to the car. Pearl was a distance behind me and I decided to call on more time. A Nunbird answered directly in front of her and she waited patiently to see what might transpire. She was rewarded when the White-faced Nunbird appeared briefly and then slipped quietly back into cover.

Club-winged Manakin

After this small victory we decided to head down past Tandayapa and see what birds we might encounter. Along the route we saw several species including a Barred Hawk. Collared Trogon, Rufus Motmot and Red-billed Parrot were some of the other finds for the day. The afternoon rains came in and we spent the afternoon recounting our day’s work.

Day 6 was spent at Milpe Bird Sanctuary. The Club-winged Manakins were very active as usual, as were the Rufous Motmot. This was another damp morning with misty rain creating a slippery environment. We were particularly interested in the Yellow-collared Clorophonia that had been observed there within the past couple of weeks. Unfortunately they did not show as we spent the day observing Toucan Barbets, Crimson-rumped Toucanets and Masked Trogon. By the end of the day Pearl’s total target birds were at 11 and we had several days left to search. I will continue tomorrow, filling in the gaps and the rare finds at Mangaloma and Rio Silanche.

Day 3 and 4 of the 10-day Adventure

noreply@blogger.com (ecuadorrebel) — Sat, 09 Apr 2011 23:21:00 +0000

We started the third day off early in the morning on a slow trip from Quito to Mindo via the Old Nono-Tandayapa road. We stopped often to check out bird sightings and bird sound. The high point of the morning was seeing a Black-and-Chestnut Eagle perched in a tree across a ravine. It remained there for several minutes before flying off to other surroundings. It is not often seen in the wild and when encountered it is generally observed flying low over the canopy. A perched bird is an unusual sight that allowed us to enjoy an unexpected moment.

We continued down the mountain and came across a large flock of Band-tailed Pigeons perched in some tall trees. There were about 40 birds in all. After a few minutes they took flight putting on an areal display as they departed.

As we continued down towards Mindo we observed many species of tanagers and flycatchers. The morning had intermittent light rain, which had little affect on our birding opportunities. We arrived in Mindo a little after noon and went on to The Yellow House, which would be our base for the next few days. We were told that a tornado had come through town a couple days earlier and that some of the trails were blocked due to fallen trees. We decided to have lunch and then determine our next course of action.

While dining at a small restaurant in town it began raining. By the time we returned to our lodging the rain had become steady and we decided not to tackle the trails but would review the birds we had observed that day. While sitting on the porch of the cabins we were able to see several other species within the reserve.

On day 4 we went out on the trails at Yellow House. There was a light rain but nothing that would dampen our spirits. Leaving our cabins we encountered a Squirrel Cuckoo and a Rufous Motmot in the trees near the lodge. After a few photos we headed up the hill towards the trails.

On the way up the hill we spotted a large raptor in one of the trees. It flew closer to give us a better look and we were able to identify it as a Hook-billed Kite. I took some decent photos of it perched on top a dead tree before it flew off to more productive territory.

The Cock-of-the-Rock was quite prevalent as we spotted several as we walked the main trail. Only the #1 secondary trail was open due to the tornado damage, which was quite extensive through the reserve. Many trees were felled and a major cleanup was needed to bring all the trails back into use. This did not, however, daunt us from seeking out our prey.

We saw many furnariids and flycatchers along the trails and keeping up with the different species was difficult at times. We had been told that we could only travel as far as the creek and with a little effort we pushed on. However the tornado destruction prevented us from continuingwe turned back to the lodge and a hearty lunch.

Our first two-day bird count was at 54 species. The second two days we racked up another 58 species. Pearl has recorded 9 of her 46 target birds so we feel that is not a bad start to the trip. Tomorrow we will be off to Bellavista Reserve and high hopes a few more additions to the list.

Day 2 -Yanacocha

noreply@blogger.com (ecuadorrebel) — Fri, 08 Apr 2011 02:50:00 +0000

Turquoise Jay

The second day of this trip, a visit to Yanacocha, began with beautiful weather but by late morning the clouds had moved in and rain threatened. We were not as successful in filling in Pearl’s list but we were able to chalk up one more. We had hoped on possibly seeing the Black-breasted Puffleg but it has not yet moved into the area. I will return in about a week and check on a regular basis to see if this allusive little bird will make an appearance.

Barred Fruiteater

Although we were not able to do much with the target list, it was a good day for birding. Scarlet-bellied and Hooded Mountain Tanagers were active as were the Black, Glossy and Masked Flowerpiercers. There were several mixed flocks of Spectacled Whitestart and Yellow-breasted Brush-Finch.

The hummingbird feeders were not exceptionally busy but there was a good showing by many species. Gold-breasted, Glowing and Sapphire-vented Pufflegs were all present. Tyrian Metaltail, Buff-winged Starfrontlet and Mountain Velvet-breast were fighting it out over the feeders and the territory. My favorites, the Sword-billed Hummingbird and Great Sapphirewing, made a showing and kept us entertained for several minutes.

Hooded Mountain Tanager

One very interesting sighting was a small flock of Powerful Woodpeckers as they flew through the area. They were making quite a ruckus while they moved from tree to tree, chattering and squawking. They are a magnificent bird, large and colorful.

Although the rain put an early damper on our day, we were able to observe some beautiful species. Tomorrow we will take a slow drive down the old Nono-Tandayapa road. Hopefully I will have internet access and will be able to continue this commentary as we seek out some special birds.

Ten-Day Birding Adventure

noreply@blogger.com (ecuadorrebel) — Thu, 07 Apr 2011 02:02:00 +0000

Today I began a ten-day trip through NW Ecuador guiding a woman from Colorado who is looking for the more obscure birds of the region. Her name is Pearl Jordan and her goal is to have 8,000 birds on her list by her 80^th birthday. She needs about 300 more species to accomplish this task and only two years to finish.

We started by going to Guango Lodge in search of some new lifers for her. It was raining all morning, which made it difficult to accomplish this task. However, we were able to add a few to her list. The first one came quickly when a Mountain Avocetbill made an early morning appearance at the feeders. We were off to a good start.

The rain continued but we did not want to give up so we made a quick trip down path leading passed the lodge. Here we encountered a Yellow-breasted Brush-Finch. Since Pearl’s list only included about 10 birds in the higher altitudes we were off to a good start.

Since it was getting late we decided to go up the Termas de Papallacta and have some lunch. While there we thought we might try our luck at one of the trails that paralleled the river. It was getting late and we figured that the birds might be making their late afternoon snack runs. The trip paid off as we saw a White-browed Spinetail and a Flammulated Treehunter along the trail. Not bad for the first day.

In all we spotted about 30 species of birds and were able to make a small dent in her list.

Tomorrow we are off to Yanacocha. Will keep you posted on our progress. I have not downloaded any photos yet but will post them when I do.

Mindo Tropical Rainforest Adventure

noreply@blogger.com (ecuadorrebel) — Sun, 27 Mar 2011 15:21:00 +0000

Mindo Rainforest

Most people who visit this blog will think of one thing when the town of Mindo Ecuador is mentioned: birding the tropical rainforest. Located within the Tumbez-Chocó-Darién bioregion, it has one of the richest avifauna diversities in the world. A targeted must-see location for birdwatchers around the globe, Mindo has become known for its easy access and nearly unlimited opportunities to add to one’s sighting list. It is truly a birders paradise.

However, when going on vacation with the family, it often happens that not all members of the unit are equally enthusiastic about the prospect of tramping around the tropical rainforest in search of the Giant Antpitta. In deference to those non-birders within the group I am dedicating this particular article.

Traveling in Style

It was my pleasure over the last four days to take some friends from England on a Rainforest Adventure. Nigel Mallon, a dentist from Sheffield, arrived in Quito Ecuador along with three dental students to participate in a clinic that was taking place in the southern part of the city. This weeklong event ended on Sunday as the majority of the team returned to the United States. Nigel, Emilie Abraham, Ali Day and Zan Johar stayed behind to take advantage of few extra days of R&R. I accompanied them on their little adventure into the tropical rainforest.

On Sunday, after the bulk of the team had shuttled to the airport, I met the young thrill-seekers and brought them to my home to drop of their extra baggage. About 8:45 AM we were ready to hit the road and tackle the unknown. As we traveled out past Pululahua volcano north of Quito, there was a hushed excitement. Though weary from their previous weeks work, the team was anxious to adventure into this new uncharted territory.

About an hour and a half into our journey we stopped in Nanegalito for a late breakfast and an opportunity to stretch our legs. A small roadside restaurant provided everything we needed to start this new adventure. Coffee, tea, empanadas and bolas (a fried ball of cornmeal and cheese) were the morning’s fare and set the mood for the trip. A good meal and a few photos later we were on our way.

We arrived in Mindo at around 11:30 AM and went on to our cabins. We stayed at La Estancia, one of many hosterias providing comfortable yet inexpensive accommodations in this small rustic town. At $15 per night, which included breakfast, this small oasis fit right in with a student budget. The cabin had two bedrooms and a private bath. There was a small porch off the back overlooking a mountain stream. Two hammocks strung across the deck made a comfortable area to listen to the water and watch birds and butterflies flitting through the trees.

After storing our baggage we decided to walk on down to the butterfly forest, about a mile from the lodge. Although this group did not consist of avid birders, I had instilled in them a curiosity for species that are not encountered in Europe such as hummingbirds and tanagers. Of course, there was a distinct interest in seeing rainforest species such as toucans. This desire was fulfilled as a Choco Toucan flew across the road during our hike. It landed in a tree near the Mindo River and gave the team an opportunity to view it at a distance.

Supergirl

When we arrived at the butterfly forest we were disappointed to be told that, due to the overcast skies of the day, the butterflies were not active. But this did not deter this group of adventurers from enjoying the activity at the hummingbird feeders. There were about ten different species represented including the White-whiskered Hermit, Green Thorntail, and White-Necked Jacobin. Emilie and Ali had their photos taken with Bruno, the giant gray Mastiff that resides on the property. After about an hour of being entertained by the hummingbirds we walked back to the cabin.

On Monday the team had their sights set on ziplining across the gorges of the Mindo valley. It was a beautiful morning and the air was filled with excitement. A pickup took us to the starting point and we were introduced to our guides: Junior, Hernan and Leonardo. After being fitted with our harness and receiving a brief safety lecture we were off to the skies. Our first challenge was a 300m (984 ft) trip across a valley at a height of about 100m (330 ft). It provided a beautiful view of the tropical rainforest, a view that would normally only be enjoyed by the exotic birds of the region. The harness gave one a feeling of security while zipping across the magnificent landscape.

Butterfly

This was the first of 13 ziplines ranging in distances from 75 – 400 m (246 – 1300 ft) that we would encounter on the adventure. However, for the more daring in the group there was no end of the excitement. On a number of traverses the team was given the option of modifying their traveling position. The “Superman” allowed the daredevil to assume the stance of this flying crusader, body parallel with the ground and arms outstretched in the true super-hero posture. For the ultimate thrill-seeker there was the “Butterfly”, an inverted cross stance with the head dangling precariously over the precipice. This was very disorienting as the traveler sped across the chasm. All in all it was a very exhilarating experience and highly enjoyed by all participants.

As I write this I find that the description is becoming quite lengthy so I have decided to divide it into two parts. There was so much more that we encountered on this 3-night experience and much more that we did not have time for. Stay tuned for the next installment.

Yanacocha Reserve in February

noreply@blogger.com (ecuadorrebel) — Sun, 06 Mar 2011 14:44:00 +0000

Tawny Antpitta (Grallaria quitensis)

I have gotten behind on my blog updates as I have been quite busy the past couple of weeks. I will try to rectify this over the next few days since I have made several trips to Yanacocha, Parque Jerusalem, Cotopaxi and Guango Lodge. As I said, I have been busy.

I will start with Yanacocha since I have been there three times since my last post. I was privileged to travel there on each occasion with some new friends. Graham Osborne from England accompanied me on my first trip, Klaus Emmaneel from Victoria BC on my second and William Donaldson of the US on the last. Although unusual for this time of year, we had good weather for each visit.

There is not as much tanager activity at this time since there is not as much fruit available. Most trees are in bloom. However, we did encounter the Grass-green Tanager. It is quite common at lower altitudes but not seen much at Yanacocha so this was a pleasant surprise. There were also several Barred Fruiteaters active along the paths and near the hummingbird feeders near the tunnel.

A couple mixed flocks were encountered consisting of Spectacled Whitestart, Masked and Glossy Flowerpiercers and Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanagers. A small group of Hooded Mountain-Tanagers were also spotted as they passed through the area. The Bar-bellied Woodpecker was seen on one occasion and the Crimson-mantled Woodpecker was also present. Rufous Wren and Rufous Spinetail were quite active although their constant movement made it difficult to get a good view. A Smokey Bush-tyrant was also observed within one of these flocks.

Great Sapphirewing (Pterophanes cyanopterus)

The hummingbird feeders were abuzz with activity as usual. Sword-billed Hummingbird, Great Sapphirewing, Buff-winged Starfrontlet, Mountain Velvetbreast, Golden and Sapphire-vented Puffleg, and Tyrian Metaltail were all present. It is still too early for any sightings of the Black-breasted Puffleg but the time is approaching when that is a possibility. The Blue-backed Conebill has also been regularly seen near the feeders although not participating in the nectar frenzy.

When we returned to the ranger station it was interesting to find that the workers have followed the lead of Angel Paz by putting up a small hide to attract the Tawny Antpitta. About 50 yards from the guard shack one can make a few whistles and a couple of these illusive birds will come in to see if there are any worm morsels to be had. Although the hide is there to provide a little more cover from the birds, the Antpittas have overcome their fear and will jump right up onto the walls of the hide in search of food. It used to be that getting within fifty feet of this bird was unusual. Now you can see them at arms length.

All three trips to Yanacocha were successful, seeing about 20 to 25 species before the clouds came in and obscured our vision. I will be on the lookout for the Black-breasted Puffleg as their time approaches. Meanwhile I will be busy trying to get caught up on my blog updates.

Machalilla - Hidden Treasure of the Pacific Coast

noreply@blogger.com (ecuadorrebel) — Mon, 14 Feb 2011 13:26:00 +0000

Isla de la Plata

Ecuador has long been known for its biodiversity and has become an important destination for the avid naturalist. However, the lure of exotic locations, such as Mindo and the Amazon Basin, has concealed many of the significant animal sanctuaries of this tiny nation. Machalilla National Park is one of these hidden jewels providing refuge for the extensive variety of flora and fauna of the Pacific Coast.

History

Concern for the decline in natural forest along the Pacific Coast due to agricultural development prompted the Ecuadorian government to pass a decree in July of 1979 to establish Machalilla as a protected area. Approximately 56,000 ha (138,000 ac) of land was classified as part of the Machalilla National Park including several islands such as Isla de la Plata, an expanse of beach and coastline, and various forest regions encompassing dry, cloud and rain forest habitats. The reserve was designated as a World Heritage Site in 1998, providing it recognition as an important wildlife environment and giving it world protective status. In 2005, BirdLife International designated the park as an Important Bird Area due to the vulnerability of over thirty species of birds residing within the region.

Location

Parque National Machalilla is located in the southeastern province of Manabi. The area is easily accessible by air or ground transportation. There is a regional airport in the city of Manta, a few kilometers north of the park. From this point it is a short drive by taxi or bus to the many towns and villages that surround the park. Puerto Lopez is one of the larger and more convenient of these locations, offering numerous hostels and hosterias for visitors.

Ground transportation from Quito or Guayaquil is available at very reasonable prices. There are direct and regularly scheduled busses that visit the major locations surrounding the park. It should be noted that although this is an economical means of travel, it might require many hours to traverse the country.

Although travel to the islands such as Isla de la Plata is restricted, regular excursions are available transporting visitors to these popular destinations. Once on the isles there are guided tours indicating the highlights of the area including the diverse flora and fauna.

Flora and Fauna

Nazca Booby (Sula granti)

Machalilla National Park is an extremely biodiverse area and many species within the region are considered vulnerable. In addition to the jaguar and the ocelot, there are two species of monkeys, the Mantled Howler and the White-headed Capuchin, that inhabit the denser forest areas. Brocket and White-tailed Deer, which were once abundant, have been hunted to near extinction. The reserve is home to the remaining one percent of the previous scrub desert and forest of western Ecuador. Humpbacked Whales regularly visit offshore, drawing researchers and marine biologists to monitor their movements.

There are more than 270 species of birds within the reserve, many of them identified by BirdLife International as vulnerable. The Grey-backed Hawk, Grey-cheeked Parakeet, Esmeraldas Woodstar, Slaty Becard, and Blackish-headed Spinetail are considered endangered. Traveling offshore to Isla de la Plata, commonly called the “Poor Man’s Galapagos”, visitors can observe three species of Boobies as well as Tropicbirds and Frigatebirds. This island is also home to the only nesting group of Waved Albatross outside of the Galapagos Archipelago.

Accommodations and Attractions

The town of Puerto Lopez and several of the surrounding villages offer an abundance of options regarding lodging, food and transportation. There are also a few ex-patriots who have adopted this area as home, setting up restaurants and other business that cater to the whims of tourists. Although there are no five star facilities in this area, most of the hosterias and hostels provide comfortable and inexpensive quarters.

Within the park, swimming, hiking, horseback riding and boat excursions are available. There are many agencies providing tour packages and helping the visitor to experience the park to its fullest.

Summary

Although Machalilla is off the beaten path, it is well worth the traveler’s efforts to pay a visit to this magnificent park along the Pacific coast. Whether a serious bird-watcher or a casual vacationer, there are activities that will meet the desires of everyone. A visit to this tropical paradise will delight everyone and provide memories for a lifetime.

Exploring the Tropical Rainforest of Ecuador

noreply@blogger.com (ecuadorrebel) — Sun, 06 Feb 2011 14:11:00 +0000

Tropical Rainforest

The tropical rainforest, for many, is a wonderland of exotic animals, brightly adorned birds, towering trees and unfathomable mystery. It is a place that is frequently dreamt about but seldom visited. Movies, such as “Avatar” and “Predator”, espouse its beauty while subtly alluding to its imperceptible dangers. It is a refuge of fantasy and a nightmare of uncertainty. The tropical rainforest is a destination of adventure and discovery. Ecuador is at the heart of this adventure and is ripe for exploration.

Facts

The tropical rainforest can be found within a narrow band that circumvents the earth between the Tropic of Cancer (23.5^o N latitude) and the Tropic of Capricorn (23.5^o S latitude). This region corresponds with the tilt of the earth, marking the winter and summer solstices. Twice a year every point within this sector will experience the direct rays of the sun. Ecuador is at the very center of this region, straddling the equator from which it takes its name.

Molinuco

Although the tropical rainforest occupies less than six percent of the world’s land surface, eighty percent of the earth’s biodiversity can be found within its boundaries. Rains in excess of 125 cm (50 in) per year and the protective covering of the forest canopy provide a terrarium like atmosphere conducive of plant and animal survival.

In addition to the rainforest, Ecuador boasts a tropical cloud forest where moistures is not attained from torrential rains but by extracting it from the prevalent mantel of vapor that envelops the area. Of Ecuador’s total landmass, forty percent can be designated as tropical rainforest, of which forty-four percent is protected for conservation of biodiversity.

The forest environment can be divided into four distinct layers. The uppermost or emergent level includes trees that extend from 40 – 80 m (130 – 260 ft) in height. These behemoths tower above the canopy and must be resistant to high winds and the direct rays of the scorching sun. Eagles and other birds of prey, bats, butterflies and some monkeys find refuge among the branches of these giants of nature.

Below these lofty titans lies the canopy that forms a protective envelope for the flora and fauna of the woodland below. Blocking ninety-nine percent of the solar radiation, it is a labyrinth of foliage, vines and branches providing sustenance and security for a myriad of birds, of which there are over 1,600 species, snakes and amphibians that call it home.

Beneath the shield of the canopy plants exhibit oversized leaves that are mandatory to absorb the restricted light penetrating the dense foliage. Insects are bountiful and the humidity reaches its zenith. This region is referred to as the understory, where large cats such as jaguars and leopards roam the jungle floor, along with tapirs, peccaries and other large rodents. Tree frogs sing in melodious harmony, some of the 447 amphibian species within Ecuador, 163 considered endangered and 159 found exclusively within this tiny nation.

Crimson-rumped Toucanet

The final level is the forest floor or shrub layer where little vegetation can survive the lack of sunshine. Organic material decomposes rapidly in this region providing nourishment for the sparse survivors. Giant Anteaters, large rodents, quaint foraging birds and mammals inhabit this uninviting environment.

Travel

When traveling to the tropical rainforest of Ecuador, arriving in the target country is the easiest part of the journey. From this point it must be decided how to reach the destination quickly and safely. Ecuador has an abundance of ground options that are both secure and reliable. The road system is modern and well maintained, thus facilitating travel alone or in small groups. For those who are less adventurous, the traveler may acquire the assistance of guides or tour agencies to insure one’s safety and expediency. Internet research should be utilized in advance of travel, scrutinizing the intended areas along with their ground transportation options and employing the most advantageous means of reaching the final destination.

Crimson-mantled Woodpecker

Lodging

An additional item that requires thorough research before setting out on a trek to the tropical rainforest is lodging. While there are many lodges and reserves offering eco-packages, other options may be available, especially to the frugal traveler. Small towns located near or possibly within the boundaries of the forest could offer less expensive accommodation while affording access to these target areas. Some locations permit camping, providing a more intimate contact with the environment.

Precautions

As was mentioned earlier, the tropical rainforest is home to eighty percent of the world’s animal population. It is therefore advisable to take precautions when entering this possibly hostile environment. A few preventative measures can help avoid uncomfortable or dangerous situations while ensuring a more enjoyable visit to these areas of unparalleled beauty.

Never Travel Alone – Although there is an inherent desire to be one with nature, it is never advisable to travel alone in areas where nature may wish to make the visitor too much a part of the environment. Even on small reserves where it appears safe, a habitué is recommended to at least inform someone where they will be and when they will return. A slight misstep could result in a mishap with no one to provide assistance.

Insects – Due to the tropical environment of the rainforest, flying, crawling, and jumping creatures abound. Although many may be harmless, traveling in jungle areas below 1,500 m (5,000 ft) increases the possibility of encountering disease-bearing insects. An Internet search of the target areas will reveal any health risks that have been identified for the location and the precautionary measures that should be employed.

Animals – Many of the creatures roaming the dense foliage of the wilderness are beautiful and quite harmless. However, there are many animals that require cautious consideration. Certain beasts such as bears, monkeys and large cats are obviously menacing but the smaller inhabitants such as snakes, lizards and frogs can prove to be innocent looking yet formidable foes. Proper clothing and precautionary measures can prove to be an effective deterrent to aggressive jungle dwellers.

Conclusion

The tropical rainforest of Ecuador is a must-see destination for the avid adventurer. Its unprecedented beauty and diversity delivers an environmental experience that is incomprehensible without a firsthand encounter. It should be placed on the wish list of every traveler who wants to understand the true nature of the world and its hidden treasures.

Cotopaxi with a New Friend

noreply@blogger.com (ecuadorrebel) — Sun, 23 Jan 2011 17:26:00 +0000

Cotopaxi Volcano

I just had the pleasure of making a trip to Cotopaxi with Graham Osborne, a new friend from a small town just outside London. He came here to spend a month visiting various areas around Ecuador observing the extensive avifauna of this beautiful little country. We met the night before for dinner and spent a wonderful evening talking about his exploits in the Mindo area and discussing our planned trip to the Páramo.

I met Graham at his hotel at 6:15 AM and we proceeded out of the Quito toward the park entrance. Since the ranger station does not open until 8:00 AM and we were a little early we decided to stop at a small café for some breakfast. As we ate a Black-tailed Trainbearer hovered around the flowers outside the window. It was an enjoyable moment before heading up the road to the park.

They have reduced the entrance price to $2 for both locals and foreigners, which was a pleasant surprise. The sun was shining, unusual for this time of year, and it was a perfect day for birding. We saw a little bird activity on the way up to Lake Limpiopungo, but outside of the variable hawk there was not too much to brag about. However, once arriving at the lake, there were many surprises.

Tawny Antpitta (Grallaria quitensis)

The ever present Andean Gull and Andean Coot were there to welcome us, along with Andean Teal, which can be seen on every visit. However, the teal had several cousins in for a family get-together. Andean Rudy Duck were swimming out near the gulls and Yellow Pintail were sleeping on one of the nearer patches of grass. Blue-winged Teal were also present, mixing in with the Andean Teal along the shore of the lake.

Before we could proceed around the lake, a Tawny Antpitta began calling out to us near the pathway from a tuft of grass not 20 meters from where we were. Graham took out his IPod and portable amplifier and began answering the little critter. Before long, the Antpitta hopped out from its cover and perched on a branch, singing melodiously to us as we watched. We spent several minutes listening to his song and observing his antics before continuing around the lake.

As we walked we came across several common species to the area such as the Grass Wren, the Plumbeous Sierra-Finch and the Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant. The highlight of the hike was several visits by the Ecuadorian Hillstar. It was very active, sometimes perching relatively close to us allowing time for observation and photos. Both the Bar-winged and the Stout-billed Cinclodes were present although on this trip the Bar-winged were more prominent.

Andean Coot (Fulica ardesiaca)

In addition to the bird species, there were several other visitors to the lake including numerous wild horses and a solitary buck deer that was grazing lazily on the northern shore of the lagoon. The deer watched us closely although he was a great distance from us with an expanse of water between. One additional visitor that is not seen as frequently was a Lesser Yellow-legs searching the marsh area for food.

Graham and I spent about two and a half hours searching the lake before deciding to return to the car and set out in search of some raptors. Unfortunately there was not much activity around the eastern edge of Cotopaxi other than Andean Lapwing, Black-winged Ground-Dove and Streak-backed Canestero. As it was getting late and the clouds were beginning to move in, we decided to head back to Graham’s hotel so that he could rest before heading out to the eastern slopes in the morning.

It was a good day for birding, observing many species and enjoying the elusive sunshine. Graham was able to observe many of the high-altitude species of the Páramo and took back some wonderful memories. It was enjoyable meeting a new friend and sharing this countries abundant beauty with him.

Ecuador - A Birders Paradise

noreply@blogger.com (ecuadorrebel) — Wed, 29 Dec 2010 19:35:00 +0000

Cotopaxi National Forest

Straddling the equator from which it takes its name, Ecuador encompasses an area of 285,561 sq. km. (109,415 sq. mi.). UNESCO designated the capital, Quito, as a World Heritage Site in 1978, along with the Galapagos Islands. Sangay National Park was later designate as a WHS in 1981 and the city of Cuenca in 1999.

In spite of its small size, slightly smaller than the country of Italy, it boasts more species of birds than the United States and Europe combined and has over half of the known species of birds on the continent of South America. With over 1600 species registered, they have 22 avian orders with 82 families represented in the country. Ecuador has 42 endemic species and 77 species that are globally threatened.

In 2005 Ecuador became the first country in the Southern Hemisphere to recognize Important Bird Areas (IBAs) as sites of public interest. The first IBA was recognized in 1997, registering the “Mindo and Northwestern Pichincha Volcano” area. Since then, 106 more areas have been identified in the Galapagos, the coast, the Andean highlands and the Amazon basin

Oriente (Amazon Basin)

The Oriente or Amazon Basin can be divided into two distinct regions; the High Amazon, which comprises the foothills of the Andes, and the Amazon Lowlands, which are further east and provide the river drainage to the Amazon River. The more important of these rivers are the Napo, the Pastaza and the Putumayo. The Oriente is the least densely populated of the four main regions. Because of this the 7 Important Bird Areas cover a much larger territory.

Grass Wren (Cistothorus platensis)

Sierra

The Sierra or Andes Mountain Range divides the mainland from north to south. This in turn is divided into two ranges: the Occidental or Western Range, which descends to the coast and the Oriental, or Eastern Range, which gradually descends to the Amazon Basin. Between these two ranges is the Inter-Andean valley or plateau, which can reach altitudes of 3000 meters (10,000 ft.). Throughout this region are numerous volcanoes reaching heights of 6,310 meters (20,800 feet). This is the most diverse area for birding with different species inhabiting various altitude ranges from 1000 meters (3,300 feet) in the coastal and Amazon basin regions to 4000 meters (13,200 feet) in the Andes. There are 59 designated Important Bird Areas throughout the Sierra.

Coast

The coast, or western lowlands, has about 640 km (400 mi.) of coastline as well as several islands. It is comprised of fertile plains, rolling hills and sedimentary basins. Numerous rivers crisscross the region, providing habitat for various species of birds. There are 31 designated Important Bird Areas along the coast that accommodate many endemic species as well as several threatened birds. Isla de la Plata, about 30 km (20 mi) off the coast of Puerto Lopez is referred to as 'Little Galapagos' as it provides refuge for many of the more popular birds found on the archipelago such as the Magnificent Frigate bird, Waved Albatross and the Blue-footed Booby

Nazca Boobies (Sula granti)

Galapagos

The Galapagos Islands, also known as the Archipelago of Colón, is situated about 1000 km (625 miles) off the coast of Ecuador. It is a volcanically formed group consisting of 15 main islands, 3 smaller islands and 107 rocks and islets. In all it encompasses 7,880 sq. km (3040 sq. mi.) spread over an area of 45,000 sq. km. (17,000 sq. mi.) of ocean. The temperatures ranges from 22-25 C (72-77 F) all year round. The entire Archipelago is considered national park and there is a $100 ($6 for nationals) entrance fee to the islands. Altitudes range from sea level to 1,600 meters (5,260 feet).

There are 28 endemic bird species on the islands and BirdLife International has designated 10 areas as Important Bird Areas.

Access and Facilities

Air travel is available into both of Ecuador's major cities: Quito and Guayaquil. Quito is situated in the Andes Mountains and provides access to the northwestern and northeastern regions of the country. Guayaquil is located further south on the coast and provides access to the southwest and southeast. Anyone going to the Galapagos Islands can fly into either city.

Golden-headed Quetzal (Pharomachrus auriceps)

Most birding areas can be reached either by public transportation or private vehicle with the exception of some of the birding areas in the Amazon basin. These will require access by chartered aircraft or by canoe. If traveling by private vehicle it is recommended to have an auto with a high clearance, as some of the access roads can be rough.

Both Quito and Guayaquil are modern cities with all the amenities expected of such. Hotels range from budget to 5 stars. Food also varies with many international restaurants featuring cuisine from numerous countries. However, one is cautioned to eat wisely when visiting some of the cheaper eateries to avoid unwanted side-affects.

When traveling away from the two major cities the accommodations are less formal, and less expensive. There are many hostels and hosterias that provide adequate rooms for a reasonable price. There are also several lodges, which provide all the amenities one could want.

There are numerous travel agencies providing birding tours and packages. They can range from the very expensive to the more frugal. Most major areas have independent bird guides but choose wisely as many do not speak adequate English or may not be as well versed in the avifauna as they claim.

Guango Lodge and Reserve

noreply@blogger.com (ecuadorrebel) — Wed, 22 Dec 2010 14:49:00 +0000

Guango Lodge and Reserve

We have come into rainy season with several days of all-day rain and every afternoon having heavy downpours. This makes it a little more difficult for birding, and especially photography. But we try to get out as much as we can and take advantage of the few dry times.

I made a quick trip up to Guango Lodge to see what was happening in the area. Agusto, a friend from Quito, accompanied me. This was his first time birding and he was excited about what we were going to do. As most Ecuadorians, he knew very little about the abundance of avifauna in the country and he was eager to learn.

Sword-billed Hummingbird (Ensifera ensifera)

To get to Guango Lodge you go east on the Pifo-Papallacta road and cross the apex of the mountain near the Papallacta Pass antennas. From this point you travel down the eastern slope for about another 20 km. (12.5 miles), 10 km (6 miles) past the village of Papallacta. When you cross the Guango River slow down because the lodge is on the right about another 50 m. The gate is normally closed but a quick inquiry will bring someone to open it to allow you to park. It is very easy to travel here by bus since there is a lot of local transportation between Quito and the Oriente (Amazon Basin). The driver will let you out at the gate and there is plenty of bus traffic going to Quito so you can easily flag down a bus for your return trip.

Entrance to the grounds is $5, which includes coffee. The rates at the lodge are very reasonable compared to many of the other lodges in Ecuador so you might consider staying a night or two. There are many hummingbird feeders around the grounds and the activity is furious.

When we arrived at the lodge there was a slight misty rain. We sat down for a cup of coffee and talked about where we would start our birding. There are seven trails on the reserve, traversing various altitudes. We decided to take the trail along the river since we feared that the steeper trails might cause some problems due to the rain.

As we set out on our walk we spotted several Slaty Brush-finch foraging in the trees along the path. We could here a clamor of Turquoise Jay beyond the tree line and closer to the river, so we made our way down to get a closer look. The owners of the lodge constructed steps down the steeper slopes to avoid visitor accidents. On our decent a Masked Trogon alighted on a branch about ten feet above us. He remained there for several minutes while watching us cautiously.

Chestnut-breasted Coronet (Boissonneaua metthewsii)

Further down the path we came across the Turquoise Jays that we had heard in the distance. There was a flock of about 10, squawking and chattering as they noised about, scavenging for the abundant berries in the trees. Along the river we encountered several Black Phoebe darting along the bank in search of insects and other prey.

The rain intensified so we decided to head back to the lodge and see what was happening around the hummingbird feeders. As we sat on the porch of the lodge we had a great vantage point to observe the numerous hummers vying for position at the feeding stations. The more prominent visitors were the Collared Inca, the Chestnut-breasted Coronet and the Sword-billed Hummingbird, each one trying to protect a segment of the territory for their very own. There were a few Masked Flower-piercers joining the fray, hoping their size would ward off the other contenders.

After a while we saw that the rain was not going to let up so we had another cup of coffee and talked about Agusto’s first experience bird watching. He was very excited about what he had seen that day and expressed an overwhelming desire to continue his new interest. He was hooked. It may have been a short day due to the weather but it was a very rewarding adventure for all concerned.

Birds encountered on this day: Black Phoebe, Buff-tailed Coronet, Chestnut-breasted Coronet, Collared Inca, Masked Flowerpiercer, Masked Trogon, Pearled Treerunner, Slaty Brush-Finch, Speckled Hummingbird, Spectacled Whitestart, Swordbilled Hummingbird, Tourmaline Sunangel, Turquoise Jay

Photographing the Birds of Ecuador

noreply@blogger.com (ecuadorrebel) — Fri, 10 Dec 2010 17:24:00 +0000

Black-Chested Buzzard-Eagle (Geranoaetus melanoleucus)

Straddling the equator from which it takes its name, Ecuador encompasses an area of 285,561 sq. km. (109,415 sp. mi.) UNESCO designated the capital, Quito, as a World Heritage Site in 1978, along with the Galapagos Islands. Sanguay National Park was later designate as a World Heritage Site in 1981 and the city of Cuenca in 1999.

In spite of its compact size, slightly smaller than the country of Italy, it boasts of having more species of birds than the United States and Europe combined and represents over half of the known avian varieties on the continent of South America. With over 1600 species registered, they have 22 avian orders with 82 families represented in the country. Ecuador has 44 endemic species and 77 species that are globally threatened.

Masked Trogon (Trogon personatus)

In 2005, Ecuador became the first country in the Southern Hemisphere to recognize Important Bird Areas (IBA) as sites of public interest. The first IBA was recognized in 1997, registering the “Mindo and Northwestern Pichincha Volcano” area. Since then 106 more locations have been identified throughout the country.

Photographing birds in Ecuador can be challenging due to the terrain and climate. Most of the avian species reside in either the rainforest, which averages 68-78 inches of rain per year, or cloud forest where fog can cover the canopy areas nearly 90% of the time. This results in a low light, unfriendly environment for photographers. Many of these locations are difficult to reach and sufficient planning is essential. Without proper preparation, equipment and protection, bird photography can be a daunting experience.

Before commencing on a journey into the birding areas of Ecuador, it is best to first decide which zone you wish to tackle. The country has four distinct regions; the Amazon basin (Oriente), the sierra or Andes Mountains, the coast and the Galapagos Islands. Each one of these areas represent a variety of avian species and can present different travel challenges.

Black-Tailed Trainbearer (Lesbia victoriae)

Once the region has been chosen, this should be further divided in sectors representing north, central and south. Again, each of these zones can present a great diversity of birds and birding opportunities. The Mindo area alone, located in the northwestern part of the country, can harbor as many as 500 species. There are several guidebooks in print that indicate where different birds can be located.

After the birding region has been determined it is then necessary to prepare the equipment. Although there are areas where you can get extremely close to the quarry, most of the birds are going to be at a greater distance. Therefore it is essential to use long lenses, preferably in the 400mm to 600mm range. Due to the low light situations presented in the rainforest (cloud forest) regions, fast lenses are crucial. Base apertures of f2.8 to f4.0 are recommended. High ISO settings may be necessary in order to attain a sufficiently fast shutter speed to stop motion so a camera that minimizes noise at these setting is paramount.

Bird photography in Ecuador can be a very rewarding exploit. The terrain and weather can make for a formidable experience, but with a little planning and preparation it can be extremely rewarding. Ecuador is a country with vast opportunities for the adventurous photographer who enjoys a challenge

Cotopaxi National Park

noreply@blogger.com (ecuadorrebel) — Tue, 28 Sep 2010 13:28:00 +0000

Cotopaxi is the highest active volcano in the world

I arose this morning to a partly sunny day and decided to head out to Cotopaxi National Park, about 35 km outside of Quito. It is the most visited park in Ecuador but due to its size, 83,000 acres, it is easy to get away from the more popular areas.

Baird's Sandpiper (Calidris bairdii)

To get to Cotopaxi is fairly easy. Go south on the PanAmerican highway out of Quito until you reach the toll both. (cost is $1 per vehicle) Continue south past volcano Rumiñahui. You will ascend to about 11,000 feet and then start down the other side. Before you reach the base of this mountain you will encounter a sign on the left indicating the road to Cotopaxi. Travel on this dirt road about 6 km (4 miles) until you reach the ranger station. The park does not open until 8:00 AM so if you wish to enter earlier you will either have to camp in the park or stay at one of the lodges. From this point you will have to travel about another 10 km (6 miles) to Lake Limpiopungo. (There is another entrance to the park but you must travel through rural areas and the way is not well marked. I would not recommend this way on your first visit)

At the lake you will be at 3,600 meters or 12,000 feet about sea level. When I arrived I was greeted by a flock of Baird’s Sandpiper, a transient during the months of July through November. There were also Andean Gull, Andean Coot, and Andean Teal on the lake.

Grass Wren (Cistothorus platensis)

There is a pathway that circumnavigates the lake and is an easy hike. Along the route I encountered both Stout-billed and Bar-winged Cinclodes foraging through the marsh grass. There are Noble Snipe that hide among these grasses but I did not see any on this trip.

As you travel around the lake there will be a steep grade to your left with heavy vegetation. This is the home to many species of birds and can be very productive if you walk slowly and keep your eyes and ears open. As I walked along the path a Variable Hawk soared past me and headed out towards Cotopaxi. There were many Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant throughout the area and they sat on the tops of bushes posing for photos. As usual there were a lot of Plumbeous Sierra-Finch along the path, not being particularly afraid of visitors.

I encountered several Grass Wren along the path and had an opportunity to watch them and photograph them for extended periods of time. They are a cute little bird flitting from bush to bush and singing a beautiful little song. The weather maintained for the morning and this made for a very relaxing day.

In all I spotted about 15 different paramo birds this morning. They were:

Andean Coot, Andean Gull, Andean Lapwing, Andean Teal, Andean Tit-Spinetail, Baird's Sandpiper, Bar-winged Cinclode, Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant, Brown-bellied Swallow, Ecuadorian Hillstar, Grass Wren, Plane-colored Seedeater, Plumbeous Sierra-Finch, Stout-billed Cinclode, Variable Hawk

Milpe Bird Sanctuary

noreply@blogger.com (ecuadorrebel) — Sun, 19 Sep 2010 16:22:00 +0000

Red-headed Barbet (Eubucco bourcierii)

I had not visited Milpe Bird Sanctuary in about a month so I decided to make a trip down to see if there were any migrants passing through. MPS is one of the Mindo Cloudforest Foundation properties located just south of the town of Mindo.

I got up early so that I could get to the reserve at a decent hour. It is about a 2-hour drive from my house, or about 1 ½ hours from Quito. From the city you travel north past Mitad del Mundo, the monument and park marking the equator. You will pass Pululahua, a dormant volcano which I will report on in a later blog. After passing through the town of Calacalí you will stop at a tollbooth. ($.80 per car). The only major town you will pass through will be Nanegallita where you can pick up some snacks for your trip. Continue past the turnoff to the town of Mindo (Km 78) until you see the Km 91 marker. Watch closely on the right for a bus stop and a sign that indicates the road to Milpe Bird Sanctuary. Travel .7 km on this road until you reach the entrance to the reserve on your right.

Rufous Motmot (Baryphthengus martii)

I arrived at MPS around 6:30, sunrise in this part of the world. The gate to the reserve was closed but I was greeted by a small pup followed shortly by Luis Yanez, the manager of the sanctuary. Luis and his family live in a small house on the property and he is always happy to receive visitors.

When you enter the reserve you will see several buildings housing the registration office, gift shop and restaurant. Behind the office there is an area set up as a feeding center for tanagers and in front of the restaurant there are several hummingbird feeders. They have just recently installed some special lighting to attract butterflies. Entrance to the park is $6, regardless of nationality.

Upon entering, Luis asked me if I would like him to put out some plantain to attract the tanagers. I nodded approval as I prepared my equipment for the day. Immediately you could hear the trees come alive with activity in anticipation of the morning feast. When I reached the feeding area there were already several birds attacking the breakfast snacks. In attendance were Blue-necked, Flame-faced, Blue-gray, Lemon-rumped, Golden, Palm, Silver-throated, and White-lined tanagers. In addition there were Thick-billed Euphonia, Black-winged Saltator, and both Black-cheeked and Golden-olive Woodpeckers. To add just a little extra splash of color a Red-headed Barbet joined the feast. Meanwhile a Rufous Motmot watched from a safe distance.

After spending some time watching the breakfast activity I decided to head out onto the Manakin Trail, one of many trails that navigate the reserve. The paths through the park are well maintained and could be ranked as easy to moderate. Some of them travel down to the river and can be a little strenuous on the return trip. A good pair of hiking boots would be recommended for the trip.

Pale-mandibled Araçari (Pteroglossus erythropygius)

There is a Club-winged Manakin lek at the reserve and today it was active. There were several males doing their song and dance in the trees; a very entertaining display for me and hopefully for the females. It was a pleasure to see them back as I had not observed this ritual since a trip I made in February. After watching for several minutes I continued along the path to see what else was happening.

Along the way I encountered a Pale-mandibled Araçari feeding on fruit about 7 meters above my head. He did not appear to mind my presence as I took some photos and moved around below him. He was enjoying a breakfast of bananas and berries from many trees that are present throughout the reserve.

Also along the path I spent some time watching a White-whiskered Hermit enjoying the nectar from the flower of a banana plant. His long decurved bill was easily penetrating the blossom to reach the treasure hidden inside.

A few hours later I again arrived at the entrance. Here I observed the hummingbird feeders for a while, seeing if there were any that I had not observed on my previous visits. Today it was mostly a combination of Green Thorntail, Green-crowned brilliant, Rufous-tailed hummingbirds and White-whiskered Hermits. There was, of course, a couple of Bananquits that are always anxious to share the booty with the hummers.

At about 12:30 PM the clouds were starting to roll in and I decided it was time to make my way back to Quito. It was a good day for birding and I was able to observe well over 30 species in my short visit. Here is a list of what I encountered on this short day-trip to Milpe Bird Sanctuary:

Bananaquit, Black-Cheeked Woodpecker, Black-Winged Saltador, Blackburnian_Warbler, Blue-Gray Tanager, Blue-Necked Tanager, Cinnamon Becard, Club-Winged Manakin, Common Tody-flycatcher, Dusky-capped Flycatcher, Ecuadorian Thrush, Flame-Faced_Tanager, Golden Tanager, Golden-Olive Woodpecker, Golden-winged Manakin, Great Thrush, Green Honeycreeper, Green Thorntail, Green-Crowned Brilliant, Lemon-Rumped Tanager, Lemon-Rumped Tanager, Orange-Bellied Euphonia, Orange-billed Sparrow, Ornate Flycatcher, Pale-Mandibled Aracari, Palm Tanager, Red-headed Barbet, Rufous-Collared_Sparrow, Rufous-Tailed Hummingbird, Rufus Motmot, Silver-Throated Tanager, Squirrel Cuckoo, Thick-Billed Euphonia, Tropical Kingbird, White-Lined Tanager, White-Whiskered Hermit

Papallacta Pass Revisited

noreply@blogger.com (ecuadorrebel) — Mon, 13 Sep 2010 16:09:00 +0000

Volcano Antisana as viewed from Papallacta Pass

I looked out my window this morning and saw that the mountians were clear to the East so I decided to go back up to Papallacta Pass. We have been having some beautiful clear days this week which has made it great for birding at the higher elevations.

When I arrived at the pass there was no one at the entrance so I went on up towards the antennas. On the way up I met the ranger who told me that he had spotted some deer up near one of the lakes. Unfortunately they were gone when I arrived so I had a little disappointment, but not for long.

Stout-billed Cinclode (Cinclodes excelsior)

There was a lot of bird activity this morning, especially from the Stout-billed Cinclodes and the Paramo Ground–Tyrants. They were everywhere. The Cinclodes were searching for food in holes that they had burrowed in the sides of the hill. They were popping in and out of these kitchens all the way up the mountain.

It was also a great morning for seeing raptors. I watched Black-chested Buzzard-eagles, Variable Hawks, Carunculated Caracara, and White-throated Hawks soar over the mountains. You could see the major snow-capped volcanoes in the background; Antisana, Cotopaxi and Ilanisas. It was a beautiful day.

Brown-bellied Swallow (Orochelidon murina)

The highlight of the morning was when four Noble Snipe took off from the lake and flew past me and over the hill. I couldn’t have asked for a better morning for birding.

In all I saw about 16 different species of birds in the couple hours I spent at the pass. They were:

Andean Tit-Spinetail, Bar-winged Cinclode, Black Flowerpiercer, Black-chested Buzzard-eagle, Blue-mantled Thornbill, Brown-bellied Swallow, Carunculated Caracara, Ecuadorian Hillstar, Great Thrush, Many-striped Canastero, Noble Snipe, Paramo Ground-tyrant, Plumbeous Sierra-Finch, Rufous-collared Sparrow, Stout-billed Cinclode, White-Throated Hawk,

Yanacocha Reserve

noreply@blogger.com (ecuadorrebel) — Sun, 05 Sep 2010 17:21:00 +0000

Spectacled Whitestart (Myioborus melanocephalus)

Yesterday I made a trip up to Yanacocha Reserve, about an hour outside of Quito. (Lat: 0 06’ 42”, Lon: 78 35’ 05”, Alt: 3,500 m) If you are traveling on a budget you will have to spend a little extra cash to get there as transportation from the main road is a must. A bus can take you to the lower entrance, but from that point you have a 10 km hike to the Reserve.

From Quito you would go north on Ave. Mariscal Sucre until you see a sign that indicates the Ecoroute to Nono and Tandayapa. The name of this street is Machala. It is 8.5 km from Mariscal Sucre until you reach the road to Yanacocha. About half way you will run out of paved road but the way is well marked. About 300 yards before you get to the road to Yanacocha you will come across a couple of stop-lights that seem to be out of place as they are in the middle of no-where. The entrance road to Yanacocha is well marked.

It is 10 km from the road to Nono up to the reserve. However, take some time to bird this area as there are many species that are active along the way. Once you get to the ranger station you will have to pay a fee of $10 for foreigners, $3 for locals and $2 for children. If you get there early and there is no one there you can enter the reserve and pay on your return. There is only one way in and out.

Most people come to Yanacocha because it is one of the few spots in the world where you can see the rare Black-breasted Puffleg. They are most prevalent in April – August. However, there is such a diversity of birds in this area it is a great place to visit at any time.

Turquoise Jay (Cyanolyca turcosa)

When I arrived the sun was shining and I had the reserve to myself. I recommend getting there early as the clouds will start rolling in early afternoon and once they are covering the mountain it is difficult to see much of anything. The temperature was about 8 degrees C (46 F) but the sun kept me plenty warm.

Turquoise Jay were very active this morning and they were a beautiful sight as they played around in the trees. There were also a lot of Scarlet-bellied Mountain-tanager as well as Black, Glossy, and Masked Flowerpiercers. To add a little more color I came across a flock of Spectacled Whitestart, about 10 of them.

As you go down the main path you will come across some side trails that lead down the mountain. This morning I decided to take the Masked Trogon Trail. If you take one of these paths keep in mind that you are at 3,500 meters above sea level and whatever goes down these trails must come back up.

Along the path I encountered some more Turquoise Jays squawking their heads off. As I was taking pictures of a female Barred Fruit-eater a Buff-winged Starfrontlet decided to check me out. It flew down to within a few centimeters from the front of my lens and looked at it first. Then it came to within 30 cm of my face and just stared me in the eye, daring me to move. I stood perfectly still while he then went around the back of me to check me out further, coming back around to the front and looked at me again as to say “Don’t mess with me” and then he flew off. It was kind a fascinating and scary at the same time since hummingbirds can be very territorial and aggressive when some one gets too close.

After a little more time along this trail I decided to return to the main path and head back to the refuge where they have several hummingbird feeders. On the way I came to a large mixed flock of White-banded and Black-capped Tyrannulet. After spending a little time taking pictures I moved on and found that there was a lot of activity at the feeders. Ecuadorian Hillstar, Great Sapphirewing, Sapphire-vented Puffleg, and Sword-billed Hummingbird, just to mention a few, were busy trying to get their place in line.

Sapphire-vented Puffleg (Eriocnemis luciani)/Buff-winged Starfrontlet (Coeligena lutetiae)

After about a half hour at the feeders the clouds started rolling in and I decided it was time to head back to the ranger station. Along the way I stopped to watch an Andean Guan try to hide in the trees. They are a very skittish bird but they make so much noise trying to hide from you that it is funny.

I arrived back at the ranger station to see a Tawny Antpitta feeding on some seed nearby. All-in-all I spent about 4 hours at the reserve. It was a productive morning. Following is a list of the birds that I encountered:

Andean Guan, Barred Fruiteater, Black-capped Tyrannulet, Black-tailed Trainbearer, Buff-winged Starfrontlet, Ecuadorian Hillstar, Glossy Flowerpiercer, Golden-crowned Tanager, Great Sapphirewing , Masked Flowerpiercer, Mountain Velvetbreast, Purple-backed Thornbill, Rufous Wren, Sapphire-vented Puffleg, Scarlet-bellied Mountain-tanager, Spectacled Whitestart, Sword-billed Hummingbird, Tawny Antpitta, Turquoise Jay, White-banded Tyrannulet, Yellow-breasted Brush-finch

Papallacta Pass

noreply@blogger.com (ecuadorrebel) — Fri, 03 Sep 2010 22:31:00 +0000

This past week I paid a visit to Papallacta Pass. If traveling from Quito you would go east through Cumbaya, Tumbaco and Pifo, finally heading up into the mountain pass. The government has done a fairly good job of erecting signs indicating the way to this area. The drive will take about an hour. There are several busses that frequent this road and for the budget traveler you can get to the pass for less than five dollars, US.

When you get to the top of the mountain you will encounter a large Welcome sign (Bienvenidos). At this point you will see a small gravel road that goes off to the left. There is a fork in this road, the left fork going back down hill and the right fork heading up to the antennas and entrance to the Cayambe-Coca Ecological Reserve. About 300 meters from the main road on the right fork you will encounter a gate and a ranger station. If there should be someone at the station you might have to pay a small fee to enter the park.

When visiting this area you need to keep in mind that you will be in the cloud-forest and the chances of getting a clear day are not in your favor. The pass itself is at about 4,100 meter (13,600 ft) above sea level. You will need to dress for the weather and climate. Layer your clothing to keep warm and take rain poncho or rain jacket to protect you from the elements.

Tawny-Antpitta (Grallaria hypoleuca)

On the day that I visited the weather was particularly ugly. The temperature was about 3 degrees C. (36 F). There was a misty rain mixed with snow and sleet. This was the kind of day that only birders and fisherman could appreciate.

I decided to take the left fork first, an area that is generally missed by tourists. The road is fairly good and easily walked. There are a number of small ponds along the road that attract Andean Teal and Torrent Ducks. Here I encounter some Tawny Antpitta and Stout-billed Cinclode. A Variable Hawk passed overhead as well as an Andean Gull. The birds were quite active but the weather conditions prevented me from taking many photos. I saw several Rufus Wren along the road. (Lat. 0 19' 20", Lon: 78 12' 41")

Bar-winged Cinclode (Cinclodes fuscus)

I spent about an hour along this road and then decided to head up to the antennas. (Lat: 0 19' 16", Lon: 78 11' 16", Alt: 4350 m) The road there was a little rougher and the wind was much stronger. The snow actually came down pretty heavy at times. But this did not stop the birds from being active. Here I encountered some Andean Teal in a small pond but the clouds were too heavy to get any decent photos. Caught a glimpse of a Noble Snipe but he didn't stick around for long. As the clouds got heavier it was becoming too difficult to spot much of anything. I stayed for a few minutes and then started back down the hill. When I got back to the ranger station I had to get out of my car to open the gate and there was a Bar-winged Cinclode searching the grass next to my vehicle. I was able to get a few photos of him as he hopped off. He was not particularly afraid of me as he went about his business.

I did not spend a lot of time at the pass on this day but I plan on returning when it is a little clearer. I would like to explore the lower fork a little more as there were a lot of birds in this area. I can see the mountains from my bedroom window in Quito and I have been watching for a clear morning. The first one that I see I will head back up to the pass for a better look.

Introduction

noreply@blogger.com (ecuadorrebel) — Fri, 03 Sep 2010 15:31:00 +0000

Yellow-breasted Antpitta (Grallaria flavotincta)

I have been living in Ecuador for the past 10 years and have had the opportunity to visit many areas where casual visitors seldom travel. Some of these areas have proven to be very productive for birding. In this blog I hope to visit these out-of-the-way areas, as well as some of the more well known birding locations, and record what other visitors might hope to encounter. I will include directions on how to reach these areas (with GPS coordinates), the fauna that one would expect to see and observations during my visit. I hope that this blog will prove to be a benefit to travelers to Ecuador as well as an encouragement to visit this beautiful country.