Water for 2 never tasted this good ...

2012-03-03T00:42:00.001-05:00

Acqua al 2 (Capitol Hill)

... oh, wait -- that's not how Acqua al 2 got its name. Even so, it might be a good indicator of what to expect when you visit this Capitol Hill/Eastern Market establishment, which brings the feel of a trattoria from the Italian heartland to the Nation's Capital. Executive Chef Ari Gejdenson was inspired by the original Acqua al 2 in the Tuscan capital of Florence (the unique name comes from the Florentine restaurant's original street address -- Via dell'Acqua 2 -- just west of the iconic Piazza della Signoria, on the north bank of the Arno). Having gone there to pursue his interest in soccer, Gejdenson ended up pursuing a career in the culinary arts, taking up a job as a chef in A2's home base. In a matter of time, he returned to DC and opened the world's third A2 in 2010, the second having been opened 10 years earlier in San Diego, California. (Worth noting: Both of the Stateside establishments share the same menu as their Italian primogenitor.)

If the mark of a good restaurant is a hopping clientele, then A2 in DC certainly makes the cut. While a prior reservation may somewhat expedite your seating, don't necessarily expect to be seated upon arrival. (After all, that wouldn't be in keeping with the Italian way, now would it?) Though for your troubles, you may be offered a complimentary drink from the bar. Meanwhile, use your spare time to stand clear of the bustling staff, and observe the numerous decorated plates that line the walls of this tastefully rustic (and comfortably cluttered) setting.

Variety is the spice of life, and a true Italian meal wouldn't be any other way! The classic insalata caprese did not fail to satisfy: flavorful tomatoes, aromatic basil and a creamy, fresh mozzarella di buffala dressed simply with a supple yet fruity olive oil, a pinch of salt and some freshly cracked pepper. The dedication to fresh and authentic (imported) ingredients shone through in this antipasto.

Next came the riso al gorgonzola e martini. (Tempting as the pasta offerings seemed to be, I opted for an alternate starch, which is by no means less appreciated in Italian cuisine.) Though I am not normally a fan of the pungent gorgonzola and other blue cheeses, the lactic beast seems to become remarkably tame when melted. (Or perhaps it's the splash of vermouth that makes the difference!) Whatever the case may be, this creamy rice dish is richly flavored, yet well structured, without suffering from an overwhelming imbalance of flavors. The rice was cooked such that it preserved that al dente quality that is so crucial to Italian primi.

An assaggio of pasta dishes. (More on that below.)

The secondo is preceded by its reputation. A2's filetto al mirtillo (steak with blueberry reduction) is perhaps the establishment's single best known dish, and not without good cause. Though some may opt for more savory meat dishes and hold off on the sweetness until dessert, the uniqueness of this steak merits some attention. (Order a side of roasted potatoes or sautéed spinach to accompany the dish, if it strikes your fancy.) No frills, no fuss... just you, a gorgeous cut of filet mignon and an enticing blueberry reduction, which, though expectedly sweet, had enough complexity to keep the palate alert. Though quite delicious and worth a try (it could easily be a potential favorite for many a patron), the filetto al mirtillo was uncharacteristically sweet for my own preferences as far as a secondo is concerned. (Though the right wine selection can temper the sweetness... or highlight it, if you prefer.)

Filleto al mirtillo.

Though at this point you may be stuffed to the gills, why not take a look at the dessert menu? The selections are all standard Italian dolci. The panna cotta -- a custard-like dessert, similar to the Spanish flan, was well prepared, and a delightful way to close the evening. Couple with an espresso (which here, comes with that beautiful, dark crema all espresso aficionados crave), and you're good to go.

Be forewarned: If asked, chances are the waiter will simply offer his own preferences as far as wines go, and do the same for everybody, regardless of your dinner selections. (Was it just a coincidence that the table beside mine was given the same two recommendations as me?) A2 offers an extensive selection of wines -- both Old and New World, with a focus on Italian wines -- so you'll be certain to find something that pleases you. Just consult some oenophile-worthy sources beforehand.

Worth noting: For parties of two or more, A2 offers an interesting take on a typical tasting menu option. You may ask for a sampling dish (assaggio) of any section of the menu. (Or all, if you prefer!) Split dishes with three samplings from the antipasti, primi, secondi and/or dolci sections, and let your taste buds revel in the joy.

All things said and done, Acqua al 2 succeeds in bringing that homey trattoria feel to cosmopolitan DC, both in terms of the food and ambiance. If you're looking for avant garde dishes, you may want to go elsewhere. But if you're in search of that inconspicuously elegant cuisine that is at the heart of all things Italian, this may just be the place for you. Buon appetito!

The DM Scoreboard (all scores out of 10):

Food: 8

Ambiance: 8

Service: 6

Bang for your buck: 7
Price Category: $$$ (out of $$$$)

DistrictMangia

Water for 2 never tasted this good ...