Dog Disease, Dog Diseases and Dog Breeds

Caring For Dogs

2012-02-28T08:03:00.000-08:00

<p>&amp;amp;amp;lt;p&amp;amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;p&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;p&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;p&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;p&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;p&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;aring F&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;/p&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;/p&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;/p&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;/p&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;/p&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;amp;lt;/p&amp;amp;amp;gt;</p>Among animals that are generally kept as pets , dogs are not comparable to any other in their devotion, loyalty and friendship to mankind. Anyone who has ever loved a dog can attest to its hundred-fold return from their pet that they have given their love to. The excitement your dog shows when you come home, the wagging tail at the sound of the leash being taken from its hook, the delight in the tossing of a tennis ball, and the head nestled in your lap-those are only some of the rewards of being a dog owner. Dog owners have a companion in their pet that will give them hours and hours of joy and companionship.

Owning a dog is not just a privilege-it's a responsibility that should be taken very very seriously. These animals depend on us for food and shelter, and deserve much more than just food and shelter, they need to be looked after, groomed, trained and kept in an environment that is good for their long term health and well being. If you are considering making dog part of your life, you need to think seriously about the commitment that dog ownership requires. If you already have a dog, you need to consider if you are fulfilling all your obligations as its owner.

This website has been started to provide you material and articles that will help you take good care of your dog and give it the attention and care that it requires. Over time you will find this website a great resource to use to find out about your dogs grooming needs, training and discipline for your dogs, nutrition and health of your dogs and most of all this website intends to be the premier resource for dog owners about Diseases in Dogs.

The website will be a comprehensive website offering detailed articles about diseases that commonly affect dogs, the symptoms for these dog diseases, how these dog diseases can be prevented, and also if your dog contracts a certain disease remedies and modes of treatment will be offered. Keep coming back to learn to take the best possible care of you loving dog.

Labrador - What Happens at a Show

2012-02-28T05:02:00.000-08:00

LABRADOR – WHAT HAPPENS AT A SHOW
Exhibiting events range from informal local competitions, to open shows for all breeds, to exclusive Labrador championships. Each has its own rules, but all follow similar principles in the quest to find a truly outstanding dog. Shows can provide a very sociable and rewarding day out for owners and canines alike.

Settling in at the Benches:
At most shows, dogs remain with their owners, but at some events your Labrador will be housed at a numbered “bench”. Secure your dog with a benching chain and offer it a drink of water. Have someone sit by the bench so your so your dog does not become bored or lonely, and postpone meals until after it is shown to keep it a active and alert.

Adjusting the “Stand”
For show presentation, your dog must adopt an appropriate stance. Train it from an early age to stand on command with its tail out, legs straight, and head held high. During the judge’s examination, you should interfere as little as possible, but you may encourage correct posture by using eye contact. Be cautious with food rewards; they can be over – exciting or may cause your dog to salivate unattractively.

Judge Inspection:
When called, enter the ring and set your Labrador in its “show stance”. The judge will examine the body in detail to see how closely it conforms to the breed standard. Your dog’s temperament is being noted too, and any nervousness, resistance, or aggression will be viewed unfavorably.

Line – up of finalists:
After the individual assessments, a short list of five or six dogs is chosen and re – inspected. The judge will then place the finalists in order of merit, awarding rosettes for first, second, and third place, as well as for “reserve” and highly commended” contenders.

Assessment of the Gait:
The judge will ask for each dog to be walked round the ring, to appraise its movement. Dogs should “gait” with confidence and fluid grace; a stilted or hesitant manner will be penalized. Symmetry between dog and handler is also important. Some Labradors are natural show – offs and relish parading in the ring.

Excitement of Participating:
At the highest levels of exhibiting, training and ring handling are performed by professionals. In lesser leagues, owners show their own dogs, and attend events as an enjoyable hobby, offering friendly competition and the chance to socialize with like – minded people – all in all, a pleasant day’s outing.

Best of Breed:
Winning dogs will have the physical attributes of a champion along with a “star” personality. It is a tremendous achievement if your Labrador has captured a prize. Yet ideal looks and show style are not the sole Criteria of an outstanding dog; any dog in glowing health and with a fine temperament is just as much a winner. Countless “champions” are never seen in a show ring.

Labrador - Specialized Training

2012-02-28T04:59:00.002-08:00

Labradors thrive on the challenge of advanced training, and their responsive nature and eagerness to please make them adept competitors in obedience, agility, and field trials. The Labrador’s keen scenting abilities, “soft mouth”, and strong retrieval instinct also give it superb potential as a gundog.

Field and Hunting Roles:
Retrieve Training:
Before practicing retrieves, a dog must be well controlled, reliably walking to heel and always coming when called. After your Labrador has learned to hold and then give a canvas – covered dummy gently to hand, teach it to wait while the dummy is thrown before fetching it on command. Attend gundog classes to master relevant whistle, verbal, and directional commands, and retrieves from all types of cover as well as in and across water. Formal training accustoms your dog to working on unfamiliar terrain and with distraction of other dogs and handlers.

Working to the Gun:
With the supervision of an experienced trainer, introduce your dog to gunfire, then work on scenting and tenderly collecting freshly – killed game. In field trails and at hunts, dogs must be steady at all times, never chasing unshot game, and only leaving your side when instructed.

Selecting the Right Puppy for Training:
All Labradors share an instinctive desire to retrieve, and have been bred to respond well to human direction. They are also “soft mouthed” – able to hold items gently. With dedicated tuition, most Labradors can be trained in advanced obedience, agility, or gunwork. However, various kennels specialize in producing dogs for different roles, especially field trials and show ring. Field trialing requires nimbleness, swift response to command, and highly developed scenting skills. If you plan to enter this very competitive sport, seek advice from a successful field – trial trainer on selecting the most suitable puppy.

Advanced Obedience Trails:
Sustained lie – Down on Command:
Competitive obedience trials provide excellent mental stimulation. Begin classes at six months, after your dog has mastered walking on a lead and basic commands. Advanced training includes close and fast – pace heelwork, retrieves, recalls, distant control, sustained sit/downs (sometimes for as long as 10 minutes with the handler out of sigh), send – away/down/return sequences, and scent discrimination.

Retrieving a Dumb – bell:
Labradors have a natural advantage in retrieval tests, and can be trained to high levels. Beginning with a dumb – bell, dog’s progress to fetching items provided by the trials judge.

Training in Agility:
Negotiating Obstacles:
Agility courses open to all dogs are run against time. The Labrador is not as fast as some other breeds, but can be very nimble if enthusiasm is restrained. To be successful, your dog must respond well off a lead and tackle obstacles only on your command.

Tipping a See-saw:
Agility work requires dexterity, confidence, and instant response to command, and can be a productive channel for restless energy. Standard trial apparatus includes an “A” frame, hurdles, a tyre, poles to weave through, a tunnel, and a see – saw. Training demands ample patience; start when your dog is a year old by enrolling in a local club. Make sure that both you’re your Labrador are sufficiently fit to participate.

Labrador - Preparing For a Show

2012-02-28T04:57:00.000-08:00

Taking part in a dog show can be great fun, but both you and your Labrador should be fully prepared. Teach your dog show manners, and make sure it is in prime condition, as it will be judged against a breed standard of ideal physical and personality characteristics typifying the “perfect” specimen.

Basic Equipment for you and your Dog:
For Handling and Security:
You will need a non – check show collar that permits the judge to have an unimpeded view of your dogs neck, and a slim lead about 1.5 m (5 ft) long. If attending a “benched” event, take a benching chain to secure your dog in its allotted space, as well as identification number clip.

Transport and Supplies:
Your dog will travel best in a crate loaded in the back of a car. Pack food and water for your dog, along with its bowls. If you plan to picnic, also take refreshments for yourself. Folding chairs and a large umbrella for sun or rain protection are essential, as are plastic bags or a “poop scoop” to clear up your dog’s mess. A towel is useful for cleaning muddy paws. All supplies, including grooming equipment, should be kept in a designated bag.

Meeting Show Standards:
Visit shows alone first to see exactly what occurs. While working trials require dogs well – trained in obedience and a variety of specialized skills, kennel club events demand only beauty and personality. For these, your dog’s coat must be in good condition, its ears clear of wax, and the teeth tartar – free. Bathe your dog and clip its nails a few days before a show, to allow renewal of the coat’s gloss by natural oils. Use a conditioner only with the advice of experienced exhibitors. Remember, no cosmetic aids to improve a dog’s looks are permitted at show.

Training and Temperament for the Ring:
Accepting Close Examination:
A successful show dog has been trained from puppyhood to accept scrutiny from strangers. Reward your dog for permitting unfamiliar people to handle it a ring judge would – allowing the hindquarters to be touched, and the mouth to be opened and the teeth examined. Judges prefer dogs that are amenable as well as handsome.

Learning to Stand for Inspection:
Young Labradors in particular often wiggle with excitement when touched. Create a show – ring environment at home, where your dog can learn to stand still while being inspected. Train with food treats – acceptable bribes in real shows. With maturity, most Labradors become calmer in the ring.

Staying Lively and Alert:
A dog show is exciting for owners because of the hope of winning, and exciting for canines since it is an opportunity to meet many other dogs. However, by the time your dog is due to enter the ring, it may be bored, and bored dogs do not win prizes. Labradors revive instantly at the scent of food. Use favorite treats to keep your dog bright and animated while performing for the show judge.

Cost of Showing:
Showing your Labrador Retriever can be inexpensive, or surprisingly costly. If you show your own dog, your only expenses are entry fees, transport, and accommodation. At the highest levels on the show circuit, professional trainers and handlers are frequently employed. This can add a very considerable financial burden, and it is a rare dog that is so successful that handling costs are earned back in stud fees or puppy prices. If your are not interested in serious exhibiting, a more sensible approach to showing your Labrador is to consider it a pleasurable pastime for both you and your dog.

Labrador - Assitance Roles

2012-02-28T04:55:00.000-08:00

The Labrador has a variety of inbred attributes which make it an ideal service dog. Its genial nature, responsiveness to training, and retrieving abilities are invaluable in assisting the disabled, while its gundog’s nose has been well employed in scent trailing for search and rescue or detection roles.
Bred and Trained as a Helping Companion:
Early training:
Labrador Retrievers and Labrador cross – breeds are the most popular dogs for assisting the blind. The largest guide – dog training centres breed their own stock. Puppies live in volunteers’ homes, where they receive basic training and are exposed to a range of learning scenarios.

Making of a Guide Dog:
The Labrador’s medium size, eagerness to please, receptiveness to training, and, above all, its steady temperament make it ideal for assistance work. In breeding programmes, dogs are selectively bred fro a calm, sensible attitude in unusual situations, ensuring a low drop – out rate – less than 30 per cent – during the subsequent months of formal training at regional guide – dog centres.

Eyes for the Blind:
Since guide dogs and owners typically share their lives for eight to nine years, it is important that their personalities are compatible. Training – centre staff initially assess the relationship during a period of residential instruction, where both dog and prospective owner learn to understand each other. After the pair have “graduated”, specialized staff makes home visits to ensure that the partnership is working well.

Home Help:
As natural retrievers, Labradors enjoy carrying objects and can easily be trained to fetch common household items, to help the infirm or disabled. Dogs with particularly gregarious characters can act as ears for deaf people, alerting their owners to important sounds, such as a doorbell ringing or a baby crying. Sometimes, young guide dogs that prove too active for the role are retained as “hearing” dogs.

Mobility for the Disabled:
A Labrador can be taught to meet the specific needs of its disabled owner – to pull a wheelchair along, pick up dropped items, open certain types of door stand and push life buttons, or even to open clothes dryers and take out the washing! All these activities provide physical and mental stimulation for the well – trained dog. An added bonus is that a disabled person will often be acknowledged and approached much more readily when accompanied by a friendly canine assistant.

Scent – Trailing Skills for Search and Rescue:
In earthquakes and avalanches, search and rescue Labrador trained to follow air and ground scent trails perform well. Many also help to locate people lost in mountainous regions. The first cave – probing search and rescue dog was a Labrador, who successfully navigated a labyrinth of subterranean passageways to lead a stranded party to safety. The breed’s scent – detecting roles have extended to work with police forces, tracking illicit drugs. Labradors have also been employed in Scandinavia to uncover mould in timber yards, and in the United Kingdom to reveal rising damp in homes.

Labrador - Pre and Post - Whelping

2012-02-28T04:53:00.000-08:00

As the day of birth approaches, introduce the expectant mother to her whelping box and arrange for your vet to be on call in case of problems. Although Labradors seldom have difficulties, it is best to have experienced help both at the delivery and alter, for after – care of weak puppies.

Introducing a Whelping Box:
Several weeks before she is due to deliver; familiarize the mother – to – be with her whelping box. The box should have a length and width of at least 1.2 cm (4 ft), and be made of marine ply, which will not be damaged by birth fluids. Three sides should be 45 – 50 cm (18-20 in) high to prevent the puppies from wandering off, while the fourth should have a lockable opening to allow the mother easy access. Start collecting newspaper; you will need several bundles to line the box and to serve as bedding for the new puppies for the next two months.

Signs of Impending Birth:
You bitch is likely to refuse food shortly before she goes into labour. She will restlessly seek out her whelping box and start to tear up the bedding, preparing a nest for her puppies. Her body temperature will drop, and she may pant. When her waters break and contractions begin, birth is imminent, keep other animals and strangers away during the labour.

Delivery Case:
If you have never been present at a birth, ask an experienced dog breeder to attend, and inform your vet when labour begins. Keep the room temperature at around 25 degree C (77 degree F). If after two hours your bitch does not produce a puppy, contact your vet once again for advice. The puppy’s position may need manipulating to facilitate delivery. Although uncommon, some Labradors do require a Caesarean section. Place a warm, towel – covered hot – water bottle in a cardboard box, and keep this nearby as a safe receptacle for each newly – delivered puppy. The box may also be used to transport the puppies if mother and litter need to be taken to the vet.

The new Litter:
Towel – dry each puppy after it is delivered, and clear its nose of mucus; all newborns should squeal and wriggle. During whelping, offer the mother drinks of warm milk. Let her rest after labour has ended and all placentas have been delivered. Place each puppy by a teat to suckle. The mother will also require plenty of nourishment in the coming weeks – at peak lactation, up to four times her normal intake.

Assisting a Weak or Abandoned Puppy:
Helping to Suckle:
On average, one out of seven puppies is born relatively small and weak. Runts are often the least healthy of the litter, and if left to nature frequently die within a few days. To aid survival, place a frail puppy near the teats offering the best supply of milk.

Bottle Feeding:
In large, healthy litters where there simply is not enough milk to feel all the puppies, or when the mother is incapacitated or abandons her offspring; use canine milk formula as a supplement. Bottle feed initially every two or three hours, seeking your vet’s guidance on the correct quantities.

Growing Together:
After three weeks, the puppies begin to explore; by 12 weeks, their sense are fully developed. Handle and groom all puppies often, so they learn to accept touched by humans, but do not upset the protective mother. Gentle exposure to new sights and sounds now will help the puppies to grow into well adjusted, adaptable adults.

Labradors - Origin of the Breed

2012-02-28T04:50:00.000-08:00

The Labrador’s probable source is the lesser Newfoundland or St. John’s dog, perhaps intermingled with dogs brought to Canada’s shores by European fishermen. Today’s Labrador was refined through English Breeding, while original dogs from Newfoundland are the basis for many other breeds.

History of the Labrador Retriever:
Canadian ancestors:
By the early 1800s there were two distinct types of dog Newfoundland – large, heavy – coated dogs used as draught animals and for collecting nets, and smaller, dense – coated dogs worked as retrievers on land and water. Admired for their skills and loyalty, they were brought to England by local fishermen until 1885, when Newfoundland destroyed its dogs to promote sheep farming.

First Labrador Breeders:
The dog’s hardy constitution and fine retrieving abilities were noted by English landowners, who purchased them for gunwork. Aristocrats, notably the Earls of Malmesbury and Dukes of Bucceleuch, developed successful breeding programmes and created intense in the new “Labrador” as a sporting dog. Colonel Peter Hawker and Lord Knutsford were also instrumental in establishing the breed and its official standard.

Nearest Relatives:
Although now quite different in size, the Newfoundland and Labrador probably have similar origins in mastiffs and working dogs taken to Canada by Portuguese, Basque, and English fishermen. Today, they share the same equable disposition, and are both physically and temperamentally not too distant from Iberian breeds such as the Portuguese Cattle Dog. The original dogs from Newfoundland are the root stock of all Retrievers. Chesapeake Bay Retrievers descend from dogs taken directly to Maryland. Curly – coated and flat – coated Retrievers are the result of cross – breeding with regional English dogs, while Golden Retrievers – so resembling Labradors in character and utility – are, in fact, more distant descendants derived from flat – ones.

Curly – Coated Retriever:
Early Labradors crossed with now – extinct English Water Spaniel.

Flat – Coated Retriever:
Produced by crossing Great and Lesser St. John’s Dogs, then crossing the result with Setters.

Portuguese Cattle Dog:
Working breed used by Basque and Portuguese fishermen may be distant ancestor of Labrador.

Golden Retriever:
Flat – coated Retriever crossed with now – extinct Tweed Water Spaniel.

Chesapeake Bay Retriever:
Result of Lesser St. John’s Dogs bred with local American hounds.

The Curious Labradooble:
The Labrador’s co – operative nature makes it an ideal service dog – easy to train, and an affable companion for the disabled. However, its hair is shed heavily, creating problems for people allergic to dog dander. Therefore, in an attempt to develop a non – moulting dog with the Labrador’s responsive and easy – going character, Australian breeders in 1989 began crossing Labradors with standard Poodles. The resulting Labradooble is certainly distinctive, but while the combination appears to produce a genial temperament, the non-shedding characteristic has not yet become fixed attribute.

Labrador - Reproduction

2012-02-28T04:47:00.000-08:00

Producing a litter of Labrador retriever puppies is in itself easy, since both male and female Labradors are naturally good breeders. However, the decision to mate your dog must be made responsibly – following sound professional guidance, and always with the best interest of the breed at heart.

The Mating Instinct:
Healthy males as young as 10 months can be used for mating. It is best to wait until a female is about two years old, in roughly her third oestrous cycle, when she is emotionally prepared for a litter. Ovulation usually occurs 10 – 12 days after the first sign of bleeding and vulvar swelling. The most successful Matings generally take place on the male’s home turf.

Pregnancy Diagnosis:
Ovulation, the optimum time to mate, is accurately indicated by an increased level of the hormone progesterone in the blood. Pregnancy, however, cannot be confirmed by blood or urine tests. An ultrasound scan at three weeks or a physical examination slightly later remains the best means of diagnosis.

Dealing with Mismating:
Mismatings can be avoided by keeping a watchful eye on your bitch when in season, by using tablets or injections to prevent ovulation, or by spaying. If an unwanted mating does occur, contact your vet. A pregnancy can be terminated, usually within three days of mating, with a hormone injection. This will induce an immediate repeat season, demanding renewed vigilance for 8 – 15 days after the beginning of vaginal discharge.

Special Needs of an Expectant Bitch:
During the first month of pregnancy, a bitch should continue to exercise freely. Thereafter, the increasing weight of the litter will naturally make her slower and less agile. At this stage, swimming is good exercise, but avoid very cold water. After the sixth week, food intake should be gradually increased so that by the time her puppies are due, a bitch will be consuming 30 per cent more than her normal daily quantity. Ensure that the diet provides an adequate but not excessive amount of calcium.

Male and Female Reproductive Systems:
A bitch comes into season twice yearly, is fertile for three days during each cycle, and will be receptive to mating only during these periods. Males, however, willingly mate year round. For the female, ovulation continues throughout life and there is no menopause, although breeding in later years is risky. Pregnancy lasts for about 63 years.

Responsible Breeding:
If planning to breed from your Labrador, seek professional advice from your vet or from an experienced and reputable breeder. Ensure that the prospective parents’ physical and emotional attributes will enhance the breed. Both partners should be screened for certain inherited diseases such as progressive retinal atrophy and hip dysplasia, via an eye examination and a hip X-ray. Your vet may also advise testing for brucellosis, a canine venereal disease. Remember that Labrador litters are large, usually about eight puppies, and that you will be responsible for finding each offspring a safe home.

Preventing Pregnancy:
Neutering is the most effective and safest means of preventing pregnancy. The female, because she carries the young, is the usual candidate. Both the ovaries and the uterus are removed, followed by a week’s rest. The procedure for males involves simple surgery on the scrotum for removal of the testicles.

Labrador - Minor Injury and Illness

2012-02-28T04:44:00.000-08:00

Every owner should know how to administer medicines and other basic treatment to their dog in the event of accident or illness. Injuries to ears and paws, from fights or sharp objects, are not uncommon, and may require prompt bandaging and precautionary restraint before a vet is called.
Applying an Emergency Bandage to the Ear:
1. While an assistant soothes and steadies your dog, apply clean, preferably non – stick, absorbent material to the wound. Take care you are not bitten through fright. Cut a section from a pair of tights and slip it over your hands.

2. With your assistant holding the absorbent pad in place, slip the tights over your dog’s head. This will hold the ear firmly, helping the blood to clot. Ensure that the windpipe receives no undue pressure.

3. If necessary, secure the tights at each end with tape to prevent your dog from removing the bandage with its paws. However, this is only a temporary cover, and your veterinarian should examine the injury.

Bandaging a Wounded Paw:
With the aid of an assistant, steady your dog. Apply a fresh, absorbent pad to the cut, wrap the pad in place with stretchy gauze, and secure the dressing with clinging stretch or adhesive bandage. Consult your vet about antibiotics or possible surgery. Change bandages daily to reduce the risk of infection.

Improvising a Muzzle:
1. Even the most loving animal is capable of accidentally biting when hurt. With an assistant holding your dog still, make a loop with any soft material such as tights, gauze, or a tie, and slip it over the muzzle.

2. With the loop in place, tighten it gently. Then bring both lengths of material down and cross them under the jaws. If your dog is confused or upset, speak to it in a relaxed, comforting tone as you proceed.

3. To complete the process, wrap the material round the back of the ears and tie the ends securely in a knot. With the emergency muzzle fastened, you can then safely give attention to specific injuries elsewhere.

Administering Medicines:
Giving a pill:
With your dog seated, open its mouth and insert the pill as far back as possible. Then Hold the jaw shut and tilt it upwards, stroking the neck to induce swallowing.

Giving liquids:
Using a syringe from your vet or a chemist, squirt the medicine into the mouth, not down the throat where it may enter the windpipe. Hold your dog’s muzzle until it swallows.

Using an Elizabethan Collar:
Your vet may provide a lampshade – shaped collar for your convalescent dog, to prevent any scratching or chewing at wounds. This collar should be left on whenever your dog is alone, but may be removed at mealtimes or during exercise on lead, when you can deter self – inflicted damage. The device is cumbersome and likely to be worn with resignation!

Labrador - Emergency First Aid

2012-02-28T04:40:00.001-08:00

A home first – aid kit is essential for patching up minor injuries. More serious emergencies are thankfully much less common, but with an understanding of basic principles and techniques such as artificial respiration and cardiac massage, you could save your dog’s life.

First – Aid Principles and Basic Equipment:
The fundaments of human first aid also apply to dogs. Your objectives are to preserve life, prevent further injury, control damage, minimize pain and distress, promote healing, and get your safely to a veterinarian for professional care. Have a fully – stocked first – aid kit handy and use it to treat minor wounds, once you are certain there are no more serious, life – threatening problems to deal with.

How to Assess an Unconscious Dog:
Causes of Unconsciousness include choking, electrocution, and blood loss, near – drowning, poisoning, concussion, shock, fainting, smoke inhalation, diabetes, and heart failure. If you find your dog apparently unconscious, call its name to see if it responds. Pinch hard between the toes, while checking the eyes for blinking. Pull on a limb – does your dog pull back? Put your hand firmly on its chest and feel for a heartbeat. Life the lip and look at the color of the gums. If they are pink and when you squeeze the pinkness out it comes back immediately, your dog’s heart is beating. If the gums are pale or blue, cardiac massage may be required to restore circulation.

Artificial Respiration and Cardiac Massage:
Do not attempt to give artificial respiration or heart massage unless your dog is unconscious and will die without your help. If your dog has been pulled from water, suspend it by its hind legs for at least 30 seconds to drain the air passages. If it has been electrocuted, do not touch it until the electricity is turned off. If is has choked, press forcefully over the ribs to dislodge the object. Never put yourself at risk; if possible share first – aid procedures with some one else or have them telephone nearest veterinarian and arrange transport.

1. Place your dog on its side, ideally with its head slightly lower than the rest of its body – elevation of the hindquarters sends more blood to the brain. Clear the airway by straightening the neck, pulling the tongue fully forwards, and sweeping the mouth with two fingers to remove any excess saliva or obstructions. Also ensure that the nose is not clogged with mucus or debris. If you cannot hear the heart, start cardiac massage at once.

2. Close the mouth, hold the muzzle with both hands, and place your mouth around the nose. Blow in until you see the chest expand, and then let the lungs naturally deflate. Repeat this 10 – 20 times per minute, checking the pulse every 10 seconds to make sure the heart is beating.

3. If the heart has stopped, begin cardiac massage immediately. Place the heel of one hand on the left side of the chest just behind the elbows, then the hell of your other hand on top. Press vigorously down and forwards, pumping 80 – 100 times per minute. Alternate 20 – 25 cardiac massages with 10 seconds of mouth – to – nose respiration until the heart beats, restoring color to the gums. Continue resuscitation until breathing starts. A very fat Labrador should be laid on its back and pressed on the chest for cardiac massage.

Always look for Shock:
Shock is a potentially life – endangering condition which occurs when the body’s circulation fails. It can be caused by vomiting, diarrhea, poisons, animal bites, a twisted stomach, bleeding, and may other illness or accidents, and onset may not be apparent for several hours. The signs include pale or blue gums, rapid breathing, a faint or quickened pulse, cold extremities, and general weakness. Treating shock takes precedence over other injuries, including fractures. Your priorities are to control any bleeding, maintain body heat, and support vital functions. Unless shock is the result of heatstroke. Wrap your dog loosely in a warm blanket, elevate its hindquarters, stabilize breathing an the heart if necessary using mouth – to – nose resuscitation and cardiac massage, and seek urgent medical advice.

Labrador - Breed Specific Problems

2012-02-28T04:38:00.000-08:00

Selective breeding for desirable traits inevitably also concentrates potentially harmful genes. Like all other breeds, the Labrador has its own variety of inherited medical problems. The primary clinical conditions involve the joints, eyes, and brain, with obesity often an additional problem.

Hip Dysplasia:
Although partly hereditary, this condition can also be related to excessive weight or over – vigorous exercise during puppyhood. Signs of hip dysplasia include high muscle wasting and discomfort on rising. In severe cases, dogs “bunny hop” to diminish pain. Veterinary associations and kennel clubs have developed useful hip – testing schemes.

Normal hips the hip is a basic ball – and – socket joint. In healthy hips like these, the head of the femur (ball) sits comfortably and firmly in the acetabulum (socket) of the hip bone.

Hereditary Eyes Diseases:
Labrador Retrievers can suffer from a variety of inherited eye ailments. Breeding stock should have their eyes routinely examined for detached retinas, cataracts, and any sign of diseases such as entropion, retinal dysplasia, and progressive retinal atrophy – a later – life blindness in which the retina “dies”. It will soon be possible through DNA blood “fingerprinting” (as it already is with Irish Setters) to detect individual carriers of the genes that cause hereditary eye disorders.
Clouding of the lenses this dog has cataracts, with obvious loss of transparency of the crystalline lens in each eye. The condition is painless, but clarity of vision is severely impaired.

Importance of Health Screening:
All conscientious breeders participate in accredited screening programmes, often jointly run by kennel clubs and veterinary associations, and will be able to provide relevant certificates stating that a dog is clear of inherited eye disorders, and giving a comparative rating for any hip abnormalities. In a number of countries, anatomical, behavioral, and hereditary factor surveys are carried out by breed clubs, with dogs classified as “recommended for breeding”, “suitable for breeding”, or “not suitable”.

Other Disorders Common in Labradors:
Although Labradors generally have robust constitutions and sound physiques, they are nevertheless susceptible to certain medical conditions. Some are inherited and cannot be prevented, but treatment may help to alleviate symptoms. Always keep your dog at a healthy weight; with their stocky build and hearty appetite, Labradors can easily become obese.
Osteochondorsis the increasingly diagnosed disease, in which areas of joint cartilage “die”, is particularly prevalent in the larger breeds, and usually first affects puppies between four and eight months old. It may occur in any joint, but Labradors suffer most frequently in the elbows, showing pain – induced lameness, leading to arthritis in later life. Implicated causal factors are genetic make – up, hormone imbalance, diet, exercise, and growth rate. Treatment for the condition, identified by X-ray, often involves surgery.

Deafness and Epilepsy deafness is not uncommon in elderly Labradors, as nerve transmission to the brain gradually deteriorates. Epilepsy, another inherited condition, although far rarer, is distressing for both you and your dog, and requires veterinary attention.

“Depraved” Appetite Labradors love food, and can sometimes develop a “depraved” appetite, trademarked by the eating of Faeces. This distasteful habit may be caused by an enzyme deficiency. If so, supplement the diet with papain – rich pineapple, papaya, pumpkin, or vegetable marrow.

Laryngeal Paralysis incidence of this old – age illness is higher in Labradors than in all other breeds combined. Its symptoms are very obvious: loud, distressed breathing, coughing, and a muted bark. It is caused by the larynx (voice box) collapsing over the windpipe, reducing air supply; the only cure is by surgical correction.

Labrador - Foreseeing Dangers

2012-02-28T04:35:00.000-08:00

Our daily surroundings can present many dangers for a dog. Be mindful of your Labrador’s natural inclinations, and supervise it closely – especially outdoors – to prevent mishaps. Never leave your dog alone in situations where it may imperil itself or others, and be prepared to avert and react to trouble.

Ensuring Safety with your lively Labrador:
Dealing with Boisterous Behavior an ebullient Labrador can unwittingly injure someone or cause property damage. If your dog accidentally or intentionally bites, both you and your pet may face legal redress. Good training is a social duty as well as sound prevention, but also obtains insurance for your dog’s activities.

Potential Hazards in Water Labradors are marvelous swimmers, but treacherous or icy waters should still be avoided. Be wary of water – borne diseases such as leptospirosis, spread by infected rat, urine, and blue – green algae bloom, which can cause itchy skin, diarrhea, and even death. Ensure that your dog will be able to safely get in, and out of, any body of water.
Controlling an Inquisitive Nature monitors your Labrador carefully when of the lead. Impetuous, curious dogs are more prone to injury, and exploratory wanders or investigative digging can result in bites from wild animals, stings, and irritations caused by plants or insects. Keep your dog away from known dangers, and carry a first aid kit to treat minor cuts and lacerations. Always use a lead to maintain firm control whenever your dog or others may be at risk.

Emergency Treatment with any case of poisoning, look for signs of shock, and give essential first aid as required. Contact your vet or local poison – control centre for specific advice, and begin home treatment as quickly as possible, preferably under professional guidance by telephone.
Store all Toxins Securely:
Labrador Retrievers, especially when young, are inveterate chewers. Keep all household, gardens, and swimming – pool chemicals stored safely out of reach, and never give your dog an empty container as a toy, or it will regard all similar objects as play items – with potentially tragic results.

Protection from Electrical Hazards:
Puppies naturally gnaw anything, and particularly appealing. Train your dog from an early age not to tamper with electrical apparatus, and reduce the risk of burns or electrocution by placing electrical cords out of reach or spraying them with bitter – tasting aerosol. Switch off sockets when not in use and, if possible, add protective covers. If your Labrador does chew through a live cable, do not risk your own life. Turn off the main electricity supply before administering first aid.

Labrador - Maintaing The Coat

2012-02-28T04:33:00.000-08:00

With their short, dense coats, Labradors are relatively simple to groom and rarely need their hair trimmed. Nevertheless, they moult extensively and demand some attention at least weekly. The Labrador is also a first – class muck – roller, so regular bathing will prove inevitable.

Routine Grooming:
Thorough Brushing command your dog to sit or stand. A bristle brush will remove dead hair and debris, as well as massage the skin. If using a double – surfaced brush, take care with the pin side, which can be harsh on delicate skin if applied too vigorously.

Stripping the under coat use a slicker brush during heavy moults to clear the large to clear the large quantities of woolly, insulating undercoat. Always check for sign of parasite or other skin irritations.

Shining the coat complete the grooming routine by smoothing the coat with clean, dry chamois leather. This wipes any loose flakes of skin from the surface and creates a glossy sheen. Let your dog know that grooming is finished by giving the release command “OK”, then reward its obedience with verbal praise.

Combing out dead hair a comb is needed only in cold weather, when Labradors have a thick double coat. Concentrate on the hips, thighs and tail, where dead hair accumulates. Comb thoroughly, but avoid scratching the skin.

Moulting Care:
During your Labrador’s twice – yearly moults, it is advisable to groom at least twice a week. If neglected, elderly dogs in particular can develop Matts of moulted hair over the hips and at the base of the tail.

Establish Grooming as a Basic Ritual:
In canine terms, grooming represents an act of dominance, taking most dogs back to puppyhood, when they were dependent on their mothers to keep them clean. Labrador’s usually strong – willed individuals, especially males, may resent it. To avoid such problems, introduce grooming routines as soon as your acquire your dog. It will quickly learn to accept your action as a sign of leadership, and should comply contentedly.

Bathing Your Dog:
1. Although Labradors generally loves to get wet, they are less happy being washed. Keep a firm grip on your dog (or enlist a helper) and use a non – slip mat in the bath for safety. Lather thoroughly with dog baby shampoo and tepid to warm water. Bathe outdoors with a garden hose only in hot weather.

2. After washing, rinse off all the shampoo, removing any residual deposits from under the legs and tail. Avoid getting shampoo near the eyes or water in the ears. Continually talk to your dog in a firm but gentle tone while bathing.

3. After rinsing, squeeze excess water from the coat and wrap your dog in a towel. Let it shake, then vigorously rub its coat dry or use a hairdryer set to warm, not hot. A typical Labrador will now be eager to roll around to get rid of artificial shampoo odour. It might smell fresh to you, but your dog still prefers the aroma of dead fish!

Labrador - Finding The Right Dog

2012-02-28T04:30:00.000-08:00

Having decided that you want to acquire a Labrador, be selective in your search. Do not act impulsively; seek professional guidance from your local vet or dog training club, and choose carefully according to this advice and your lifestyle. Any purchase should incorporate a veterinary examination.

Advice on Where to Buy and What to Look For:
Consult a veterinarian vets and their staff can provide unbiased information on what too look for in healthy Labrador Retriever. They are usually aware of any prevalent medical problems or behavioral idiosyncrasies, and their advice is always free of charge.

Inquire at local dog training clubs contact a local dog club for guidance on how to find a trainable Labrador. Trainers can often also recommend breeders who produce dog specifically for field work or showing. While gender and coat color partly determine a dog’s temperament, so do breeding lines.

Suitable for Your Lifestyle:
Select a dog that fits into your daily routine both now and as you foresee it in years to come. Labradors are large, energetic dogs, needing lots of exercise and mental stimulation. If you are new to the breed, talk to other owners about their dogs and try to spend some time with one. If you have a family, all decisions on buying a dog should be made together.

Deciding On a Puppy or an Adult Dog:
Buying a pure - bred puppy although puppies are undoubtedly appealing, they are also extremely lively and demand plenty of attention; be prepared! Reputable breeders are the best source for Labrador Puppies. Visit several litters before making your choice, and not the physique and temperament of the mother and, if possible, the father too. Resist the temptation to buy the first puppy that takes your fancy.

Animals Rescue Centers:
Animal shelters always have dogs needing good homes. A rescued Labrador is more likely to have behavior problems, notably destructive activity when left alone. Yet, “recycled” dogs can settle in and make loyal, affectionate companions. An adult rescued dog may be a good option if you want to avoid the bother of house training a puppy, and are willing to cope with any unexpected personality quirks.

Health Checks for Your New Dog:
Make any purchase conditional upon your vet’s confirmation that the dog is healthy, with no sign of infectious disease, malnutrition, or parasites. Breeders should provide documents verifying that a puppy’s parents are free from a variety of hereditary disorders. By law, if a puppy is not healthy at purchase, you are entitled to a refund or a replacement. It is wise to place a similar condition on the purchase of an adult dog regardless of the source.
Avoid Puppy Mills:
Whenever possible, buy your dog directly from a reputable breeder, either professional or amateur. Avid puppy farms or mills, as they often provide inhumane environments for mothers are give little attention to the puppies’ health. Newspaper advertisements can sometimes be fronts for mills; be suspicious if when visiting a private home you cannot sett the litter’s mother. Be wary also of pet shops; they can be fertile environments for a variety of infectious diseases, and may supply you with an unhealthy specimen purchased from a puppy mill.

Labrador - Come, Sit, Down and Stay

2012-02-28T04:28:00.002-08:00

Training your puppy to come, sit, lie down and stay down is most important both for the safety of your dog and for harmonious relations with your family, friends, and outside the home. Labradors are among the most trainable of all breeds, and usually respond superbly to food rewards.

Come and Sit
1. Train only for a few minutes at a time twice daily when you, and your puppy, are alert. Try to work in a quiet, narrow space such as a hallway, with no distractions. Holding the puppy on a loose lead, briskly and cheerfully call its name and let it see that you have a food treat in your hand. As it begins to move, give the command “come”. Always be enthusiastic and encouraging. While your puppy walks towards you, praise it by saying “Good dog”.

2. When your puppy reaches you, move the treat above its head. To keep its eye on the for, the puppy will naturally sit. As it does so, issue the command “Sit” and immediately give the reward. Repeat the exercise regularly until your puppy responds to words alone.

The Value of “No!”
It is vital for everyone’s well-being that your puppy quickly understand the meaning of “No!” with this one word, you can regain control and even prevent an accident. Just as you use a friendly voice and warm body language to reward, adopt a stern tone and a dominant stance when issuing this reprimand. There is no need to shout; most Labradors are exceptionally eager to please, once they know what behavior you want. Nevertheless, it is best to practice all basic obedience commands indoors before moving outside, where your dog will be more easily diverted.

Follow Down:
1. Kneel beside the seated puppy, holding its collar with one hand, and place the treat by its nose. If your puppy tries to get up, tuck its hindquarters under with your free hand say “Sit”. If it lunges for the food, use a less exciting reward like a soft squeaky toy.
2. Move the treat forwards and down; your puppy will follow it with its nose. As it starts to lie down, give the command “Down”. If the puppy refuses, gently raise the front legs into a begging position, then lower it down, rewarding its compliance with praise.

3. Still holding the collar, continue to move the food treat forwards and down until your puppy is lying completely flat. Then reward the puppy with the treat and praise. Take care not to praise excessively, as this can encourage your puppy to jump up.

Stay Down:
With practice, your Labrador should learn to stay down until commanded to rise. If it will not obey, kneel beside it and press over its shoulders. After a few seconds, release the puppy, saying “OK”. Response to the “Down” command is important in potentially hazardous situations.

Labrador - Early Training Exercise

2012-02-28T04:24:00.000-08:00

As soon as you bring your puppy home, begin gentle training for obedience and hygiene. Reward good behavior with praise, stroking, or food treat. Provide toys to keep your puppy alert and occupied, and arrange regular contact with other dogs to ensure proper social development.

Learning With Rewards:
Verbal praise Labradors are eager pupils and learn quickly. Even a very young puppy will be sensitive to your manner and tone of voice, and will understand when you are genuinely pleased with its behavior. Enthusiastic words of approval should always accompany and other type of reward.

Stroking Reward:
Touch is an intensely powerful reward. Your puppy will naturally want to be stroked, but do not comply on demand. Offer petting in response to good conduct, so that obedience is associated with desired physical attention.
Food Treat:
The Labrador gives the impression that a large portion of its brain is dedicated to a constant search for food. Exploit this breed characteristic by using low-calorie treats such as vitamin tablets as primary rewards reinforced with vigorous praise.

Acquiring Social Skills:
A puppy’s ability to learn is at its greatest during the first three months. If denied ongoing contact with other dogs during this important stage, your Labrador Retriever may not develop the social skills necessary for meeting strange dogs later in life. If you do not have another dog, ask your vet to help you organize weekly “puppy parties” to encourage natural, friendly interaction with other healthy puppies.

Toy for Your New Puppy:
Suitable toys for chewing and playing good toys are designed to stimulate your puppy both physically and mentally. Dogs are particularly attracted to toys with distinctive odours, and ones that are fun to chase, capture, retrieve, or chew. Take special care with squeaky toys; curious Labradors are prone to accidentally swallowing the “squeakers”.

Toys as Reward and Comfort:
While toys left lying around soon become boring, items brought out only under special circumstances are transformed into exciting rewards. Give toys selectively as a prize for good behavior, and put them away after use so your dog understands that they belong to you. Whenever you leave your Labrador alone, provide a favorite toy as soothing distraction.

House Training Indoors and Out:
Paper training your puppy will usually want to eliminate after walking, eating, drinking, after exercise. It may signal this by putting its nose down and sniffing with newspaper, and praise it when it urinates or messes. It is pointless to punish your puppy after an accident. If you catch it in the act, however, say “No” in a stern tone to teach it that is must use the paper.

Moving outside:
Start outdoor training as soon as possible. Three – month – old Labrador puppies need to empty their bladders about every three hours. Take a small piece of solid paper with you; the puppy will smell its own scent, and be encouraged to transfer toileting outside. As it eliminates, say “hurry up”; this will train your dog to relieve itself on the command.

Labrador - Sex and Type Difference

2012-02-28T04:22:00.000-08:00

Apart from their obvious physical differences, male and female Labradors can also vary somewhat in character. Specific “types” bred primarily for working or showing may differ too. Yet all have in common the willing nature and eminent trainability that distinguish this justly popular breed.

Physique and Temperament: The Sexes Compared
Male Labradors are typically large and more powerfully built than females, and have less delicate features. In behavior, gender-related differences are very minor, with males only slightly more dominant. Overall, both sexes are very even-tempered and highly trainable.

Gentle, Responsive Female:
Female Labradors are often considered marginally easier to train than males, and less likely to disobey their owners. They also tend to be more playful with other dogs. Neutering usually has little effect on a bitch’s personality, but can sometimes reduce an inclination towards possessiveness.

Confident Male:
Males tend to have a more willful nature than females, and therefore can be slightly more headstrong and disobedient. However, unlike numerous other breeds, male Labradors are not markedly more aggressive than females. Although they may be instinctively assertive with other male dogs, dominance is more likely to take the form of rowdiness rather than belligerence.

Gender-Specific Medical Problems:
A variety of diseases are caused or influenced by sex hormones. Unless spayed early in life, females of all breeds may suffer from breast cancer and pyometra, or womb infection. Uncastrated males sometimes develop perianal tumours, testicular cancer, or prostate disorders, with associated pain or bleeding on urination. Neutering is part of the preferred treatment for all gender-related medical conditions, but in Labradors particularly, neutering must be followed by careful diet control to prevent weight gain.

Perfect Looks:
Many Labradors are bred primarily to conform to formal show standards. The notion of an ideal specimen continues to vary somewhat over time and from country to country, since the official breed standard may be interpreted fluidly. For many years, Labradors in the USA were bred to be considerably large than the favored European size. Now these preferences have been more clearly defined in a new American standard. Whichever standard is used, dogs intended for exhibition trained from an early age in show-ring deportment.

Bred to Work:
Although all Labradors can be trained as gundogs or for working trials, requiring skills in obedience, agility, or scent trailing, some are bred specifically for such roles. They may still meet show standards, but often have lighter leaner bodies which are considered more agile in the field. Working dogs are also bred to have an exceptionally strong retrieving instinct and a keen responsiveness to training.

Selective Breeding for Special Roles:
Labradors and Golden Retrievers are the world’s most successful assistance dogs, trained to help people with disabilities. Just dogs destined for other roles are selectively bred to enhance certain desirable qualities, in recent years dogs have been bred specifically for assistance work, with the most important criteria being sound health and a calm, unflappable disposition.

Labrador - Walking to Heel

2012-02-28T04:19:00.001-08:00

Ensure that waking with your dog is pleasure rather than endurance by teaching if from an early age to walk to heel. Labrador puppies enjoy human companionship so much that you can begin training without a lead. Then move on to lead work, gradually increasing the distance covered.

Walking to Heel without a Lead:
1. Kneel to the right of your alert, seated puppy. Holdings its collar with your left hand, speak its name and show it a favorite treat in your other hand.

2. Using the scent of the food to attract the puppy, walk in a straight line while giving the command “Heel”. Be ready to grasp the collar with your left hand if the puppy wanders. When you stop walking command “Wait”.

3. Keeping the treat low to prevent jumping, bend your knees and turn right, drawing the food round as you move. Repeat the command “Heel”. Your puppy will speed up to walk round you.

4. Left turns are more difficult. Hold the collar with your left hand and command “Steady”.
Place the treat near your dog’s mouth then move it to the left. The puppy will follow.

Heelwork with a Lead:
1. With the puppy on a long training lead and seated to your left, hold the lead and a food treat in your right hand, and pick up the slack of the lead with your left. Tell your puppy to sit.

2. Move forwards on your left foot while giving the command “Heel”. If your puppy walks too far ahead, give the lead a light jerk.

3. With the puppy beside you in the heel position, offer it the reward and say “Good dog”. Repeat “Sit” and praise it when it obeys.

4. After the dog has learned to walk to heel in a straight line, teach it to turn to the right by guiding it with the treat. If your puppy has lost interest, postpone further practice until later.

5. Once the right turn has been learned, commence left – turn training. Hold the treat in front of the puppy’s nose to slow it down while speeding up your own circling movement to the left. Keep the puppy close and command “Steady” as it follows you round.

Labrador - Introduction

2012-02-28T04:12:00.001-08:00

Many centuries of evolution produced today’s domestic dog breeds from their common wolf ancestor, over 15,000 years ago, when our ancient relatives first created semi-permanent settlements local wolves in turn moved into the areas surrounding the encampments to scavenge for food, only the smallest and tamest of these “self-domesticated” wolves survived, and within a very short time the modified wolf-dog had emerged. The early human settlers, recognizing potential uses for these creatures, began capturing young cubs and raising them to protect their campsites and assist in hunting.

Adaptation of the breed:
By about 6000 years ago, selective breeding by humans had produced many different dog breeds with enhanced qualities for specific roles, including guarding, load-bearing, herding and hunting. More recently, only in the last 1000 years, people have amassed sufficient wealth to hunt purely for pleasure, leading to the development of the sporting dog. The Labrador Retriever is a supreme example of this most advanced branch of canines, for it performs in an unnatural way – adeptly finding wounded prey but rather than instinctively eating it, carefully bringing the game back to its waiting master.

Natural Protective Instincts:
The Labrador’s specific development, first to assist fishermen and later as a gundog, has enhanced its eagerness to serve its owner and work co-operatively with other dogs. Yet even this most gentle, sweet-tempered breed has not lost its innate canine instincts, which may be expressed through natural guarding or defence.

The Ideal Companion:
The modern Labrador Retriever was developed expressly as a sporting breed – to work to the gun, retrieving game for huntsmen, its exceptional abilities have, however, led to a variety of other roles. Labradors are among the finest scent-detecting dogs, and in the detection of drugs and explosives. The Labrador’s affable character and superb responsiveness to training have also made it an exemplary assistant for the disabled – in fact, it is the world’s most successful guide dog for the blind. But for many devotes of the breed, the Labrador Retriever’s most outstanding characteristic is its happy, affectionate nature and overwhelming dedication to its owner. It is a perfect companion for both adults and children, and its well-deserved international popularity continues to grow with each passing year.

Labrador - Breed Characteristics

2012-02-28T04:05:00.000-08:00

LABRADOR-BREED CHARACTERISTICS
The Labrador Retriever’s official breed standard was originally developed by people who used this obedient, happy dog as a working companion. Today, the standard continues to emphasize the gentle, eager-to-please nature of this most affable of dog, as well as a body conformation eminently suited for working on land and in water.

Muscular And Well Balanced:
The Labrador stands firmly on solid, powerful forelimbs. It toes are webbed for speed and endurance when swimming, while the chest is not excessively wide, allowing easy movement of the well-muscled legs.

Uncomplicated, Robust Body:
A strongly muscled, agile physique well equips the Labrador for a vigorous working role in all terrains. Its short, straight, and dense top coat, overlying soft down, further provides waterproofing and protection from ground cover. The Labrador’s sturdy, purposeful frame features a straight upper contour and an almost level underline with little tuck-up at the groin.

Neck:
Substantial and muscular, with clean firm lines.

Skull:
Broad, with defined indentation at base of muzzle; clean-cut head has unflashy cheeks and medium-length, powerful jaws.

Forequarters:
Shoulders long and sloping, supported by strong-boned forelegs, perfectly straight from elbow to ground.

Ears:
Closing-hanging, neither large nor heavy, and set rather for back.

Eyes:
Friendly, medium-sized dark eyes are placed well apart.

Nose:
Wide nose with large nostrils on broad muzzle.

Teeth:
Upper teeth closely overlap lower in “scissors’ bite.

Double coat:
Short, dense outer coat without feathering or waving covers soft, waterproof down.

Back:
Top line of body is level, carried above short, wide, and strong loins.

Body:
Chest well muscled and powerfully built, of good width and depth, with barrel-shaped ribcage.

Hindquarters:
Broad, muscular, and very strongly developed straight and not sloping to tail, with sturdy, well-defined thighs.

Tail:
Medium-length rounded, “otter-like” tail is very thick at base, gradually tapering to tip, with no feathering.

Feet:
Rounded and compact, with well-arched, webbed toes and generous pads.
Good-Natured, Devoted Companion:
With a typically wide head and slightly pronounced brows, even this distinctively masculine Labrador has a gentle look which is synonymous with the breed.

Labrador - Coats and Colors

2012-02-28T04:01:00.000-08:00

Labradors come in three “varieties”: yellow, black, and chocolate. Eyes are usually a warm hazel or brown with dark rims, and the nose black or dark brown, although a yellow dog’s nose may fade to pink in winter. The coat is dense and waterproof, and curiously its color can have some bearing on personality.

Yellow And Black Coats:
Mating between yellow Labradors always produce yellow offspring. Black Labradors, however, may bear either all black puppies or a mixed litter. Professional breeders usually know whether their black stock carries the potential to produce yellow. Vets and breeders generally find no differences between yellows and blacks in characteristics such as trainability, playfulness with other dogs, or enjoyment at being petted. However, yellow Labradors are considered slightly more likely to whine for attention, and to bark when anxious or to protect the home. They may also be moderately more excitable, and more destructive when left alone, although all these behavior variations are very minor.

Variations of Yellow:
Color intensity ranges from champagne cream through rich golden, to the more unusual fox-red.

Glossy black:
The black Labrador has a typically strong yet gentle face with noble features.

Chocolate Labradors:
This rich, attractive coat color is relatively rare, but becoming increasingly popular. Both yellow and black Labradors may produce chocolate-colored puppies, but the genetics are complicate. In theory, all three colors can appear in one litter – and occasionally this does happen. However, when matters are left to nature alone, just one puppy in eight is born with chocolate pigmentation. Breeders normally prefer to avoid using yellow stock to produce chocolate offspring, as these puppies sometimes have very pale skin and light eyes.

Natural-Born Swimmers:
A breed that revels in getting wet if water is available – from the smallest of puddles to a vast ocean, no matter how dirty or salty – Labradors will find it, and dive in with relish. The breed’s powerful muscular legs, well proportioned chest, and webbed toes are perfectly designed for speed and endurance when swimming.

Dense, Waterproof Undercoat:
The Labrador Retriever has inherited a thick, wooly undercoat from its Canadian ancestors, bred for work in the cold waters of Newfoundland. This specially-adapted layers gives superb, waterproof insulation, although Labradors can still suffer from hypothermia in severe conditions.

Labrador - Constructive Play

2012-02-28T03:56:00.000-08:00

Dogs need mental stimulation as well as physical exercise. Create activities that utilize the Labrador’s unique abilities; games involving retrieving will be particularly enjoyable for your dog. Use playtime to reinforce training, to strengthen your bond as owner, and simply to have fun.

Challenging Games:
Simple rehearsed scenarios such as supplying a handkerchief on the command of a “sneeze” are an enjoyable way of developing your dog’s ability to recognize a given cue and react accordingly. This type of game exploits the Labrador’s love of both retrieving and social interaction.
Fetching Useful Items:
Labradors instinctively retrieve, and will happily bring almost anything to you. Train your dog to fetch your slippers by throwing one a short distance and saying “fetch”, followed by “come”. Use a lead first to ensure response to the command.

Retrieving on Demand:
Once your dog understands the concept of fetching, you can train it to find any item. It must, however, be taught to understand exactly what you want it to bring back. Do not expect your Labrador to fetch something it has not been specifically trained to retrieve.
Enjoyable Learned Routines:
Physical games are the most exciting for your dog, but even “playing dead” can be satisfying when rewarded set piece is an extension of “down” command, with your dog learning to lie still until you release it by saying “ok”

Having Fun with Moving Objects:
Labradors are moderately good soccer players, although they usually lack the desire to win that some terriers have! Giving verbal encouragement, teach your dog to roll a ball with its nose. Avoid food rewards as these are too potent a distraction from the game.

Toys Belong to You:
When you finish playing, make a point of putting away all toys. This re-establishes that you are in charge, and playtime is available only through you. It also makes toys more desirable to your dog and therefore more useful to you as a control tool. Always give praise control tool. Always give praise for relinquishing toys, or exchange them for a food reward.

Ending Playing with Rewards and Praise:
Constructive games keep your dog’s mind active and alert. Adequate mental as well as physical exercise can help prevent destructiveness or anxiety, which are often merely symptoms of boredom. It is easy to incorporate training into play by continually reinforcing basic obedience commands such as “Sit”, “Stay”, “Come” and “Down”, and by rewarding good behavior. Always finish games on a positive note, with food treats, stroking, encouraging words, so that your Labrador looks forward to future activities. Just as with children. If learning is fun dogs will want to learn more.

Labrador - First Routines

2012-02-28T03:52:00.000-08:00

A puppy’s early experiences set patterns for life. Train your young Labrador from its first days with you to accept being left alone, to wait patiently in its own crate while you are busy, and to learn about permitted behavior. Most importantly, train it to enjoy coming to you when called.

Accepting Being Left Alone:
No matter how much you enjoy being with your new puppy, there will be times when you must leave it on its own. Train your Labrador to accept that this is part of its routine by confining it to its crate with an interesting reward, such as a hollow toy filled with a little peanut butter. Then quietly walk away, signaling “wait”. Gradually accustom your dog to being left alone for extended periods.

Stop Over – Aggressive Play:
If one puppy hurts other during rough play, the wounded puppy will usually bite back or retire from the game. Either way, the aggressive dog learns a lesson. Do the same with your puppy. If he behaves unacceptable, say “No!” and stop play for a minute. If necessary, you may grab the scruff of the neck as a firm but painless admonition.

Problem of Training Several Puppies:
Any training requires the undivided attention of both you and your dog. If you have two or more puppies, train just one at a time, keeping the others out of sight and beyond hearing distance. Otherwise, they may actually learn not to respond to your commands since their obedience is not being reinforced. Training sessions with individual puppies should only last for a maximum of 10 minutes.

Coming to You on Command:
1. For safety and responsible control, your puppy must learn always to come to you on command; this is central to all obedience. Having trained your dog to accept a collar and lead, put these on the dog and kneel a short distance away, with the lead tucked securely under one knee. Hold a chewable or attractively scented toy as a reward; a food treat is less clearly visible but may prove too exciting for many Labradors.

2. Call your puppy’s name in a clear, friendly tone to attract its attention. When it turns its head towards you, give the command “Come” and wave the toy as an enticement. Keep the lead slack; do not reel in your puppy but encourage it to come willingly for the reward.

3. Welcome your puppy with open arms. Out of curiosity, it should walk towards you, as it moves, say “Good dog” in an enthusiastic voice. When the puppy reaches you, reward it with the toy. Never call your puppy to discipline it, or it will then associate returning to you with being reprimanded. Develop a happy bond so your dog comes because it wants to be with you.

Labrador - Indoor Training

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Although Labradors love the outdoors, your dog is likely to spend much of its life with you in your home. Make sure that it understands basic “house rules”, and provide it with its own personal space to retire to. Give your pet satisfying time and attention, but always on your own terms.

Learning to Wait Patently:
You are the leader of the pack, and you decide what happens and when. Do not respond to your dog’s demand for attention or let it initiate activities. Every dog should have some private space – a bed or a crate that it can call its own. Your Labrador will learn to retire happily to its “den” while you are relaxing or busy with household chores.

Spending Quality Time Together:
Nurturing the bond between you and your dog is not only enjoyable, but strongly reinforces basic obedience. Set aside time each day to offer your Labrador some indoor physical and mental activity. Vary the hour and type of play or your dog will expect a certain game at a given time.

Accepting Strangers at Home:
Although Labradors are inclined to enjoy visitors, ensure your dog is not a nuisance by training it to sit when a guest arrives. This will discourage territorial guarding and help curb any over-excitement. Ask visitors initially to disregard your pet, to instill a sense of calm. Always reward good behavior with approving words, a gentle stroke, or a favorite treat.

Relinquishing a Forbidden Item:
Labradors are inveterate retrievers and often take items they find, especially those with attractive odours, back to their beds. Train your dog, using food rewards, to drop and surrender objects on command. A possessive dog should be taught that even its toys ultimately belong to you.

Understanding what is wrong:
Use a stern voice and an assertive stance to admonish your dog when it does, something wrong. Reprimand on the spot; otherwise it will not understand why you are angry.

Follow simple Retraining Rules:
Remember the principles of basic training and always go back to those if problems develop in adulthood. Virtually all undesirable behavior can be corrected if your dog understands simple obedience – to come, sit, lie down, and stay. Everything else is window dressing. Labrador Retrievers are more trainable than many other breeds and have a good but limited ability to understand language. Be careful not to overload your dog with information; use short, sharp words, and issue commands only when you know that you can enforce them.

Labrador - Introducing Outdoors

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LABRADOR – INTRODUCING OUTDOORS
All puppies should experience the outdoors as soon as possible. Provide essential vaccinations and identifications, and accustom your young Labrador to a collar and lead. Ask friends to help you create situations in which the puppy can meet new people and other dogs in controlled circumstances.

Introduction to Collar and Lead:
1. Collar and lead training can begin as soon as you acquire your puppy. Start by letting the dog see and smell the collar. Then, avoiding eye contact, kneel down and put the collar on, distracting with words. Reward your puppy with treats, physical contact, and praise. Actively play for a while, and then take the collar off. Your puppy will quickly learn to associate the collar with rewards, and should accept it without reluctance.

2. Once your puppy is content wearing its collar, kneel in front and attach a lead. Keeping the lead slack, entice your dog to one side with a toy or food reward. When it moves towards the reward. When it moves towards the reward, apply light tension to the lead. Allow the puppy to have the toy or treat, and give it copious praise.

Meeting Strangers:
Arrange for canine-loving friend to meet you and your puppy outdoors. Ask your friend to kneel down to greet the puppy, as this will help curb its inclination to jump up. Also discourage direct eye contact, which can provoke an unduly excited response – not uncommon in very young dogs. Finally, provide your friend with your puppy’s favorite treat to give as a reward for relatively calm behavior.

Essential Puppy Inoculation:
Your veterinarian will vaccinate your new puppy against a range of infectious disease, and for additional protection may also advise avoidance of unfamiliar dogs for a few weeks. Contact with known healthy dogs should continue, however, to ensure that your puppy becomes properly socialized.

Encountering Other Dogs:
Ask a friend with a relaxed dog to meet you on a walk. Have your friend instruct her dog to sit as you approach, and reward your puppy’s calm response with treats and praise. Through routine meetings, your puppy learns that there is no need to jump on anything that reminds it of its mother. Regular interaction with puppies of a similar age will also help in developing important social skills.

Discourage Jumping Up:
Labrador’s love life and are exhilarated by the outdoors. In their exuberance many, if not most, tend to jump up onto people by way of greeting. Do not encourage this annoying habit yourself by slapping your thighs when calling your dog, and ask others to get down to puppy level during meetings to dissuade jumping up.