Sunshine Guide to Gran Canaria

Mogan

Canary Island News: The Driest Winter Ever

2012-02-28T10:25:00.002Z

The driest winter in Canary Island history

After the driest autumn since 1947, the Canary Islands have experienced one of the driest winter periods ever. February is normally the wettest month here, with at least one big storm. This year, it's been cold, but the rain hasn't fallen.

Luckily the past few years have been kind and the reservoirs in the mountains still contain plenty of water. The Canaries are also much better these days at recycling water and less vulnerable to droughts. Most crops are now grown under plastic and require less precious water.

Lack of rain doesn't just affect crop yields in the Canaries, although these are expected to be down by 20 percent this year. All those pretty gardens and green golf courses in the resorts have to be watered. If there isn't enough rain, the water is sucked up from the island's aquifers, deep underground. Ecologists are concerned that we are hoovering up this fossil water faster than it is being replaced. This makes the islands act like a sponge, absorbing sea water and becoming saltier.

February is ending in a blaze of sunshine, but it may still rain in March!

Who's For Poached Parrotfish and Live Sea Urchin?

2012-02-27T00:48:00.009Z

Squid rings are boring compared to Grilled limpets!

Canarian food is famous for its simple, tasty seafood like fried squid rings, delicious prawns and fish stew. However, delve a bit deeper into the local cuisine and some more exotic ocean ingredients and seafood dishes pop up.

25 years ago I remember watching old women in Lanzarote, wearing huge hats and head scarves, munch their way through a whole bucket of live sea urchins or erizos de mar. The cracked each one open and sucked out the fresh roe, before baiting their fish traps with the shells. The fresh roe is soft and a bit slimy, but tastes fresh and slightly fish. In Japan it is highly prized for top quality sushi.

Sea urchins have become such a problem in parts of the Canaries that the government is trying to get Canarians to eat them more often. The roe, cooked down into a sauce, tastes intensely of the sea. Trouble is, you need to collect a lot of spiny urchins to make a plate of pasta! Each one gives you half a teaspoon of eggs.

Grilled Limpets

Another local speciality is grilled limpets or lapas, served with green mojo sauce (made from garlic, fresh coriander, chilli, vinegar and oil). Limpets are hard to collect because they live on rocks in rough areas, and clamp down if you try and dislodge them. The best way to get them is to sneak up and side swipe them with a rock or an iron bar. Cooking limpets is easy as they come in their own little pot: Just add a dash of lemon juice and a teaspoon of green mojo to each upturned limpet, and put them under the grill until the meat comes away from the shells. Limpets are tasty but a little bit chewy, especially if overdone.

Harvesting mussels and limpets is currently restricted in the Canaries, and especially on Fuerteventura, as over-collection was damaging the ecosystem. The limpets you find in small local bars are almost all imported. They still taste the same, and the freezing even makes them slightly tenderer!

Fried Moray Eel

Moray eels are fatty and full of bones, with hardly any meat at all. That doesn't stop Canarians from chopping them up and deep frying the bits until they go crispy. Then they chew up the crisped eel (morena frita) and spit out the bones. Moray eel is very satisfying because it is greasy and tasty, but most people are put off by the bones. Personally, I prefer my moray eels live and wriggling about! They get up to six feet long, and make the islands a more attractive Scuba destination.

Octopus Old Clothes

Octopus old clothes (ropa vieja de pulpo) is a stew made from chick peas, onions, tomatoes and octopus. It is called old clothes stew or "ropa vieja" because legend states that it was first made by a man so poor that he boiled his own clothes. When he took the top of his pot, he found this delicious dish inside instead. When you sit down to a dish of octopus ropa vieja, try not to picture the naked man who first ate it!

Poached Parrotfish

Poached parrotfish (vieja jareada) is an iconic Canarian dish that never gets onto tourist menus because the Canarians keep all the parrotfish to themselves. They are beautiful, multi-coloured animals, with big beaky teeth, that live in shoals and eat crabs and urchins. Their meat is soft and flaky and falls apart unless cooked with care. Viejas are poached whole with onion, peppers and laurel leaves and served with the skin unbroken.

Viejas are traditionally caught from small boats using a glass-bottomed box or "mirafondos", and a cane rod tipped with a dried stingray tail for sensitivity. The fisherman, in a small rowing boat, moves over the rocks until he spots a shoal of viejas through his mirafondos. Then he drops his line, tipped with a long iron hook baited with a small crab amongst the fish. The big hook is essential as viejas can bite through nylon and small hooks with their strong teeth. Once a vieja bites, the fisherman whips it up away from the school quickly so as not to spook the others.

Viejas became very rare because of overfishing but are now staging a big comeback thanks to marine reserves and fishing limits.

Stewed Cuttlefish

Cuttlefish are related to squid but have slightly sweeter meat. In the Canaries they are stewed until very tender in white wine along with bay leaves and garlic. The dish is called chocos en salsa: It's rich and exceptionally tasty!

Come across any other weird seafood in the Canary Island? Let me know and I'll add it to the list.

Other food posts on the Sunshine Guide

A Guide to Canarian Food

Delicious Polvitos: A New Desert

Canarian Potage Soup

Canarian Coffee Guide

Car Hire In Gran Canaria: The Cheapest Deals

2012-02-25T23:03:00.002Z

Cheap car hire in Gran Canaria is for everyone

Car hire in Gran Canaria is cheap provided that you book well in advance. Aim to have your car organised at least a month before your holiday starts. Use a price comparison site such as the British company carrentals.co.uk to search for the best deal for your dates and type of car.

I plug Car Rentals because they almost always find the best offers. Sometimes local companies that aren't on price comparison websites offer equivalent or lower prices. To check them out look at the excellent English-language websites of local firms Cicar and Orlando.

If you have left it too late or haven't decided whether to hire a car in Gran Canaria then don't worry. Local companies like Cicar or one man bands with a few cars often offer great value car hire deals in Gran Canaria resorts. You can always check their prices via carrentals.co.uk and book online if it is cheaper.

Always ask whether small Gran Canaria car hire firms charge a supplement if you want to leave your car in the airport or another resort. Return the car with same amount of fuel in the tank or you will be charged for the difference. These extra charges can wipe out your savings!

Car Rental Gran Canaria is here to get you great value car hire on the island. Please contact me if you have any problems on the island or any suggestions for future posts.

Gran Canaria News: Vegueta Museum Wants Spanish Frigate Treasure

2012-02-25T15:15:00.002Z

Here be treasure!

The Casa de Colon museum, in Las Palmas' old town district of Vegueta, wants to house the 500 million dollar treasure recovered from wrecked Spanish Frigate, the "Nuestra Señora de las Mercedes". The frigate sank near the Straits of Gibraltar during the Battle of Cape Santa Maria in 1804.

The Casa de Colon is a free museum in Gran Canaria's capital city. It currently displays paintings, maps and artefacts relating to Columbus' journey of discovery from Gran Canaria to America. The Casa de Colon is a popular place with tourists, and the Canary Island's most important nautical museum, receiving over 200,000 visitors every year. It is housed in the beautiful Canarian mansion that Columbus lived in before setting off to discover America. The museum is just around the corner from Vegueta's Santa Ana Cathedral, and yards away from the chapel where Columbus gave his last sermon before sailing off in the Niña, the Pinta and the Santa Maria.

The haul from the Nuestra Señora de las Mercedes consists of 595,000 silver and gold coins, religious images, and chests. It is now heading back from America to Spain after US courts ruled that it rightfully belonged to Spain rather than the American salvage firm that recovered it. You have to feel sorry for the American salvage firm Odyssey: It located the wreck and recovered the treasure but had to give it all up without compensation. Somehow I imagine they have a few gold coins kicking around somehwre!

If the Casa de Colon gets the treasure it would make Vegueta, and the whole of Las Palmas, an even more interesting historical destination for tourists. Let's hope that the museum's bid succeeds: It would be the perfect place to display one of the world's biggest treasure hauls!

Want to know more about Gran Canaria? Click on these links for the best posts on the Sunshine Guide to Gran Canaria:

The top 20 Beaches in Gran Canaria

Mogan

Banana Liqueur and Tropical Beer: Canarian Drink Guide

2012-02-23T22:25:00.003Z

Tropical beer from Gran Canaria with its dog logo

It's easy to come to the Canary islands for a week or two and drink nothing but imported spirits and beer. They may be what you are used to, but they come at premium prices. The local stuff is just as tasty, and always cheaper!

Canarian wines are getting more and more famous, especially the roses from Lanzarote, (More in this post), reds from Tenerife, and sweet wines from La Palma. A big post on Canarian wine is on my to do list ...

Canarian Beer: Tropical and Dorada

Canarian beer is good stuff. Gran Canaria has its own brand, called Tropical, while Tenerife makes Dorada. Both island swear by the utter superiority of their beer, even though both breweries are owned by South African giant SAB Miller! Tropical is a little richer, while Dorada is drier. Both are good on a hot day! Personally I prefer Dorada, but as a Gran Canaria inhabitant this is controversial!

Dorada comes in a brown bottle with a red label. Its logo includes Tenerife's famous Teide volcano. Tropical comes in a green bottle with a green and gold label. Its logo is a dog's head. This comes from the famous iron dogs in the main square in front of Las Palmas' cathedral. Local legend states thaat they were meant to be Canarian dogs, but that the makers in Britain didn't know what the looked like. Instead of Canary mastiffs and bardinos, the British sent labradors and spaniels instead. When the sculptures arrived in Gran Canaria, in about 1870, it was too late and too expensive to send them back to be made again. This is why the dogs in front of the Santa Ana Cathedral in Las Palmas look very British. One has pheasants at its feet! There are even an identical set of iron dogs outside the Queen Mother Hospital for Animals in Hatfield!

Traditionally, Canarians drank beer out of small, brown bottles with no labels called botellines. They hold about 20cc of beer. The logic is that you could drink the beer before it warmed up, and then order another While botellines still exist, Tropical and Dorada now come on tap and in standard bottles. A pint of the local brew is often far fresher, and cheaper, than imported lager.

Canarian Rum

Rum may well have been invented in the Canary Islands. Sugar cane was once a huge crop on the islands. It declined when plantations using slaves started up in the Caribbean. The tradition of making rum on the island never died out and it is still the most popular local tipple. The biggest brand is Ron Arehucas, with Artemi a distant second.

Canarian rum is made fom molasses in tthe same style as the famous Cuban Havana Club and the Nicaraguan Flora de Caña. It is light and golden with a hint of woodiness. Most bars also stock clear version because people think it is better for hangovers. Make sure you ask for Arehucas or Artemi, as some of the cheaper brands can be pretty rough.

Canarian drink rum mixed with coke and plenty of ice in a highball glass, called a "vaso de tubo". Instead of calling it a Cuba Libre, Canarians shorten the name to a Cubata. To really fit in, order "un Cubata", rather than the more logical "una Cubata" (words ending in "a" are feminine in Spanish and need a la). This is because the full name is "El Cuba Libre". Canarian barmen will appreciate the gesture!

Take care with Canarian measures when you order spirits. Rather than your namby pamby UK measures, barmen here pour until the ice cubes float. Most rum and cokes contain about 100 ml of booze: that 4 British single measures!

Honey Rum

The chances are you will get a shot of honey rum (ron miel) after a meal anywhere in the Canaries. It has become the drink you give tourists after their meal. Canarians rarely drink it unless they have a cold! Ron miel is intensely sweet and almost sticky: it really does help a sore throat. If you don't fancy it, ask for a blackberry licquer (licor de moras). It's still sweet, but tastier!

Banana Liqueur

The ultimate cheesy Canarian souvenir: Canarian banana liqueur comes in a bottle shaped like a bunch of bananas. It is a bright, unnatural yellow colour and tastes even sweeter than ron miel. Banana liqueur's intense banana flavour is useful for a few lurid cocktails, but otherwise it is best left well alone. It does make a great chintzy gift for an aunty though!

Want to know more about Gran Canaria? Click on these links for the best posts on the Sunshine Guide to Gran Canaria:

The top 20 Beaches in Gran Canaria

Mogan

Canary Island News: Devon Spider Attack By "Canarian Spider"

2012-02-21T09:04:00.002Z

The Sun newspaper today has a news story about a father who collapsed after being bitten ten times by a Canarian spider in Devon. Click here for the full story.

The Sun article makes it sound like the Canary Islands are knee deep in toxic creatures that drop out of trees and savage people. In fact, there are hardly any poisonous animals on the islands at all. There are no snakes, no scorpions, and the poisonous spiders that do exist are shy and retiring. I am a trained zoologist and have only ever seen a couple of False Widows in over 30 years of living in Gran Canaria. The only nasty is a giant centipede but this only comes out at night and hates people. The only way to get bitten by one is to poke it over and over again: I know this, because I am the only person I know who has been bitten by one: It's very painful, but not dangerous!

The spider in The Sun news story is called the False Widow (Steatoda nobilis). It is a distant relative of the deadly Australian Black Widow or Redback. False widows are much smaller than their famous relatives, brown instead of jet black, and much less toxic. There are 120 species of false widow around the world.

Canarian false widows are thought to have arrived in Torquay in 1870 among a consignment of bananas. They managed to survive and spread as far north as Lancashire. They are rarely seen, and hardly ever bite people.

The Natural History Museum says that most of the ten spider bites reported in the UK every year are from the British false widow (Steatoda grossa). There is an average of one bite per year from the Canarian False Widow.

The Sun report says that the spider dropped out of a bush. It sounds very Arachnophobia, but is unlikely. They live in caves and abandoned buildings. The most likely place for one to live in Devon would be the shed, or a banana tree.

Read all about the few dangers of the Canary Islands in this post:

Volcanoes And Poisonous Animals: The Dangers Of Gran Canaria

Europe's Biggest Party: The Month-Long Canarian Carnival

2012-02-20T23:45:00.000Z

Carnival in the Canary Islands last for a whole month

Carnival in the Canary Islands happens during February. The whole month is filled with street parties, contests, fairs, parades and lots of dancing. Every island celebrates carnival, but Tenerife, Gran Canaria and La Palma have the most famous celebrations.

Click here for my photos of the Las Palmas Carnival.

There are street parties every weekend during the carnival period, as well as pop-up bars and snack stalls. People go out with bottles of rum and cola, and big bags of ice, and hang around listening to music. In 2007 the Canary Island Parliament even passed a law allowing noise regulations to be suspended during carnival!

The tradition of celebrating carnival goes back almost as far as the Spanish Conquest of the islands. It was probably started by Genoese immigrants from Italy, who brought their own carnival traditions with them to the islands. The first record of a Canarian carnival dates back to AD 1521. In AD 1605 a Spanish chronicle mentions the fashion for “reversing the sexes in dress” in Santa Cruz. Carnival celebrations were heavily suppressed by Franco, who wasn’t hot on fun of any sort, but bounced back strongly as soon as he died.

The Santa Cruz de Tenerife Carnival is bidding for World Heritage Status and is currently a Tourist Festival of International Interest. It is famous as the biggest carnival in the world after the Rio de Janeiro’s, even though the Las Palmas carnival is probably bigger these days. In 1987 250,000 people gathered in Santa Cruz’s main square to watch Latin Star Celia Cruz perform. It made the Guinness Book of World Records as the biggest ever concert crowd!

The highlights of the Tenerife carnival are the election of its Queen, its street parade, and choreographed dance contests, known murgas, between groups from different parts of the city. These groups spend all year rehearsing and making their costumes.

Las Palmas de Gran Canaria’s carnival is even busier than Tenerife’s, with well over 100,000 people out on the streets every weekend. It has similar parades and murgas, and also chooses a carnival queen. Las Palmas also has its world famous drag queen contest, which has grown into a huge, and very camp, event. Other highlights include the pet parade, and the Carnival al Sol along the Canteras beach front.

La Palma Island carnival started in the 1800s. It focuses on the return of rich émigrés from Venezuela and Cuba. They always wore white linen clothes and Panama hats, while their wives carried lace parasols. They were nicknamed Los Indianos. In La Palma everyone gets dressed up in white as a tribute to Los Indianos. Palmeros also cover each other with flour or talcum powder. This tradition started when a ship left a load of stale flour in the port. The locals had a flour fight with it and have done the same ever since.

If you are in La Palma during February head to the capital city of Santa Cruz on Mondays. The whole city dresses in white and throws white powder about. Its very friendly, and very messy! Anyone not wearing white gets an extra dusting!

Palmeros, are very protective of their traditions. When Las Palmas started a similar traditional carnival in its historic Vegueta district, the Palmeros insisted that they not call it Los Indianos.

Most towns in the Canaries celebrate their own mini-carnival, during February, March and even April. They are always fun and good natured, and a great way of sharing a few rums with the locals. Most tourist resorts also put on a carnival during February, especially Maspalomas in Gran Canaria.

Carnival on Gran Canaria and Tenerife ends with the burning of a 30-foot paier mache sardine. First the sardine is towed through the city, followed by people dressed as popes, nuns, priests and widows. Then it is dragged out to sea and set on fire, accompanied by fireworks. There is one last night of rum drinking before everything goes back to normal. At least until the summer fiesta season starts!

The Las Palmas Carnival Website

The Santa Cruz Carnival Website

The La Palma Carnival

Want to know more? Click on these links for the best posts on the Sunshine Guide to Gran Canaria:

The top 20 Beaches in Gran Canaria

Mogan

Gran Canaria Car Rental: In The Resorts

2012-02-20T00:33:00.001Z

Check you fuel level before driving away

Car hire in Gran Canaria resorts such as Puerto Rico or Maspalomas is very straightforward. All the large operators have offices or agents in the shopping centres and main streets. Simply check their prices on the boards outside or ask about specific models. Every resort also has independent companies, some of which are large operations and others one-man-bands.

Large dealers such as Hertz, Avis and Cicar are cheaper in the resorts than in the airport (where their customers are a captive audience). Some Gran Canaria hire car companies will deliver your car to your hotel or resort and pick it up when you leave. Ask if you want to hire your car in a resort and leave it in the airport as small firms can charge a hefty supplement.

For cheap car hire in Gran Canaria go to the small independent operators dotted around the resorts. Most of them offer decent cars at very low prices. However, they may not have the support network in place if you break down and may not allow you to leave your car in the airport. With a taxi from the resorts to the airport costing at least 40 Euros, going with the cheapest company may not be worthwhile in the long run.

Since there are lots of small car hire firms in the resorts it is difficult to check if a particular operator is reliable. Most are honest but there are always black-hat firms out there. Talk to other guests in your hotel or ask the reception desk for recommendations. Don't trust prices that seem too good to be true, or operators that seem shifty.

With all Gran Canaria car hire companies check your car thoroughly before you sign the contract and drive it away. Make a note of any scratches or defects and note the fuel level as you will be charged extra if your car contains less fuel when you return it.

Small local care hire firms in Maspalomas, Playa del Ingles and Puerto Rico are often cheaper than the big names. These savings can disappear if you have to pay supplements or charges, or if you break down. Compare the best local prices with an on-line price comparison website like carrentals.co.uk. You can still book online if you are already in Gran Canaria.

Note: Be very careful with car hire companies in the Canary Islands that operate an "full on delivery-empty on return" tank policy: They charge you up to 70 euros for a tank of fuel when you pick up the car, even though a full tank on the island costs about 40. The company that does this all the time, and gets a terrible reputation because of it, is GoldCar. Most firms operate a full on delivery-full on return policy, or ask you to bring the car back with the same amount of fuel in. Much fairer!

Gran Canaria: Five Cool Beaches The Locals Keep to Themselves

2012-02-19T21:48:00.002Z

Gran Canaria's secret beaches

There are quiet local beaches dotted all around the coast of Gran Canaria. If you get sick of long sand beaches covered in sun loungers and parasols then head to one of these secret spots. All of them are great for snorkelling.

Click on the name of these beaches for a Google Maps view.

El Juncal
Juncal is a small, pebble beach about 2 km north of Puerto de las Nieves. It is about 120 metres long with calm, clear water. You can walk to if from the town by following the promenade from the harbour north and then cutting inland (see Google map link). There are no facilities at El Juncal, and it is completely natural. Most of the regulars don't bother with clothes.

El Puertillo
Arucas is famous for its colossal Gothic church and pretty town centre. Few people know that the town also has its own beach and natural swimming pool. El Puertillo is small with dark sand, but you are almost guaranteed to be the only tourist there among a few Canarian families. The beach is sheltered, but the north coast is rough so don't swim out too far. Opposite the beach is a huge natural swimming pool that shelters swimmers from the surf. The village also has fish restaurants, and a promenade.

Sardina del Norte
Sardina del Norte is packed with scuba divers and local seafood lovers every weekend. It is one of the best places in Gran Canaria to see angel sharks and big rays, as well as amberjacks, and even tuna. It also has two small sand beaches that never have anyone except locals on. Combine a day on Sardina Beach with a seafood feast at the restaurants by the harbour. Sardina del Norte is an odd place as the harbour is built right at the bottom of a huge cliff.

El Risco
El Risco Beach is more famous for its Blue Pool or Charco Azul that for its beach. If you head down the valley from the village rather than up the hill, you get to a wide sand and pebble beach that is completely undeveloped. It a quiet spot that rarely has anyone on at all. Nudism is fine, even expected on El Risco Beach.

San Cristobal
San Cristobal Beach is all pebbles and not that many people ever go swimming off it. It is very popular with the locals because the little fishing port of San Cristobal is home to some of the best seafood restaurants in Las Palmas. San Cristobal is on the way into Las Palmas from the south. The original village has been absorbed by the city but still maintains its own charm and local feel.

Want to know more? Click on these links for the best posts on the Sunshine Guide to Gran Canaria:

The top 20 Beaches in Gran Canaria

Mogan

The Top 20 Best Beaches in Gran Canaria

2012-02-19T17:09:00.011Z

Gran Canaria beaches:From endless stretches of golden sand to tiny, remote bays

Gran Canaria has dozens of beaches, from the Saharan splendour of Maspalomas to the tiny patch of sand at Sardina del Norte. Some are packed with sun loungers and parasols, while others are hours away from the nearest Full English Breakfast. Whatever your taste, the island is guaranteed to have the perfect beach for you.

Click on the title of each beach for a Google Maps view.

Lex has over 600 excellent photos of Gran Canaria's beaches on www.gran-canaria-info.com.

Maspalomas
Beach and its dunes make up Gran Canaria's biggest and most popular beach. It is over 6 kilometres long, with huge, golden dunes and calm water. It has a nudist zone in the centre and snack stalls at regular intervals. Maspalomas Beach is so big that you can always find a quiet spot!

I've covered Maspalomas in loads of details in these two posts:

Maspalomas: The Amazing Dunes and Beach

Gran Canaria Resorts: A Guide to Maspalomas

Montaña de Arena

This hidden beach is a local favourite, especially amongst the island's many nudists. Montaña de Arena has no facilities and is about 10 minutes walk down a track from the GC 500 road, between Maspalomas and Arguineguin. It is hard to find, hard to get to, and hard to forget. The beach is a thin strip of sand at the base of a huge sand dune. At high tide to have to sit on the dune itself!

To get to Montaña de Arena, drive from Maspalomas along the GC500. It is about 5 minutes past Pasito Blanco Marina. Park in one of the two patches of ground that pass as car parks, and then either walk along the coast, or down the dune itself.

The locals are happy to share their beach with tourists but some of them object to cameras and video cameras! The area behind the beach is going to be developed into a new resort. The developers have promised to respect Montaña de Arena, but nobody is quite sure what that means!

Amadores

A half moon of white Caribbean sand with a fringe of bars, shops and restaurants: Amadores Beach looks like it was invented by the tourist industry. That's because it was! Amadores was built from scratch about 15 years ago when Puerto Rico's beach got overwhelmed with people. It has warm, sheltered water, lifeguards and lots of loungers. Amadores is a great, safe beach for families with kids, but isn't the place for people who love their beaches wild and unspoilt.

Get to Amadores from Puerto Rico Beach by walking for 15 minutes along the safe cliff-top path that runs from the marina. Or take a taxi! Its about three minutes away from Puerto Rico by road.

Anfi del Mar

Anfi is another gorgeous artificial beach. It was built by the company behind the enormous Anfi Timeshare complex that overshadows it. Originally Anfi Beach was meant to be a private beach for Anfi customers, but Spanish law forbids private beaches so everybody can use it. Coming from Maspalomas and Arguineguin, Anfi is just before Puerto Rico resort on the GC 500 road. Park in the carpark on the opposite side of the road and walk down to the beach. It has shops, bars and restaurants.

Las Canteras

Las Canteras Beach is probably the island's most underrated beach. It is 3.5km long and sits right in the middle of the city of Las Palmas. Sheltered by a lava rock reef, it is safe for swimming and made of gorgeous golden sand. The snorkelling here is great because the whole beach is a marine reserve.

I can't recommend Canteras enough: loads of space, local bars and restaurants, surfing at its southern end, and a completely local feel. If you fancy getting out of the resorts but still fancy a day on the beach, Las Canteras is the place for you.

I've covered Las Canteras in much more details in this post:

Gran Canaria Beaches: Las Canteras and Its Characters

Melenara

Melenara Beach is the local beach for the Town of Telde. It is dark yellow in colour, and well maintained, with local restaurants on its promenade. Next door is another, similar beach called Salinetas. If you are staying in Las Palmas and it's cloudy, Melenaras is the first beach you get to that is likely to have sunshine.

To get to Melenara and Salinetas, turn off the motorway at Ikea, head down to the coast, and then head north until you get to the beaches.

Confital

Confital is Las Palmas' most pristine, natural beach. It used to have hundreds of illegal houses but they have been removed, and the beach and surroundings left to return to nature. Confital is mostly rocky, with a few patches of golden sand. It is nudist from the end of the wooden boardwalk. Confital is also home to one of the best tube waves in Europe.

There is much more about Confital, and Las Palmas' other beaches in this post:

Las Palmas Holidays: A Complete Guide to the City's Beaches

Some great photos of Confital's annual surf competition here

San Agustin

San Agustin beach is in front of the resort of the same name. It tends to be quieter and more local than Maspalomas /Playa del Ingles. It can be windy at times, but is a decent beach with plenty of facilities and sand space.

Las Burras

Las Burras is a bit of a hidden treasure. It is between Maspalomas Beach and San Agustin Beach. You can walk to it by following the coastal path from Playa del Ingles. Las Burras is mostly local, with calm water, plenty of space, and golden sand.

Taurito
The Taurito valley or barranco is dominated by apartments with purple tile roofs, and a huge swimming pool. You have to pay to use the pool, but the little, sandy beach at the mouth of the valley is free. It is small, and is often quite empty. The snorkelling along the cliffs to either side is very good.

Mogan
Mogan beach used to be stony but a big delivery of Saharan sand has turned it into a lovely, sheltered beach. It is right next to Puerto Mogan and has some lovely fish restaurants on its promenade. The beach makes Mogan a complete day trip and holiday destination.

Bahia de Santa Agueda

There are several beaches along the GC 500 just before you get to Arguineguin from Maspalomas. They are mixed sand and pebble beaches and popular with local families and nudists. The advantage of these beaches is that they are undeveloped and quiet. The view of the huge cement works does detract from their charms slightly!

There are several beaches in the bay, including El Llanillo, Los Bigotes, and Playa Triana. Just park up alongside the GC 500 where you see other cars and head down the track to the beach. Los Bigotes is right by the road!

Guayedra

Guayedra is the locals' local beach. It is a pebble and sand beach just past Agaete on the amazing West Coast Road. It is hard to get to as you have to drive down a track, park up and then walk on down to the beach. During the week you will probably have it all to yourself, except for the odd group of nudist campers. At the weekends it fills up people from Agaete, Galdar and Guia

Playa del Burrero

Burrero Beach is another tiny local beach that rarely sees a tourist. It is just south of the airport. It can be windy but is usually sheltered enough to sit on. Burrero has a rocky outcrop that protects the beach, and you share the sand with fishing boats and fish traps. There are shops in the little village next door.

Just behind the beach is a tiny archaeological site: The original prehistoric Canarians, called Guaches, used to like Burrero too, and had a small village on the spot.

Veneguera
Veneguera Beach is important because it marked the high tide mark for rampant tourist development in Gran Canaria. When plans for a mega-resort in the valley were announced the islanders protested so much that the plans were shelved indefinitely. Thanks to local indignation, Veneguera remains pristine. All it has is an old quay that was used to ship tomatoes, and a couple of mango farms. It is mostly pebbles, with a few patches of dark sand. Take all supplies with you!

Get to Veneguera down the rough track from the Mogan Valley (see Google Map).

Puerto Rico
Sandwiched between two marinas, and the main beach for the whole resort, Puerto Rico Beach is often very busy. It is safe, calm and clean, but many people head round the hill to Amadores Beach to avoid the crowds. Mogan's town council, which governs Puerto Rico, has recently announced that it is to ban smoking and night-time swimming on all its beaches. This affects Mogan, Amadores and Puerto Rico Beaches.

Playa del Ingles
Not so much a beach in itself, but the part of Maspalomas Beach that is in front of the Playa del Ingles resort. It has recently grown thanks to three groynes that have trapped sand and formed three new beaches between Maspalomas Beach and Las Burras (see Google Maps). Playa del Ingles Beach is a good place to book water sports!

Meloneras
Meloneras is Maspalomas' other beach. It is right at the end of the new promenade in front of the big hotels like the Villa del Conde and the Baobab. Meloneras is rarely busy, but has loungers, plenty of sand, and restaurants.

Puerto de las Nieves

Puerto de Las Nieves is a little fishing village in the north west corner of Gran Canaria. It has some lovely fish restaurants and is the departure point for the fast ferry to Tenerife. It has two beaches, both pebbly. One is in the harbour and the other is the far side of the village's old quay. The far end of this second beach is a designated nudist area. Sadly for Puerto de Las Nieves, its iconic Finger of God lost its finger during a big storm a few years ago. You can still see the remaining knuckle of god by looking towards the cliffs from the quay.

About 2 kn north of Puerto de Las Nieves is the stunning pebble beach of El Juncal. Walk there by following the promenade north and continuing along the track. Juncal really deserves its own entry!

Gui Gui Beach
Gui Gui or Guigui Beach is Gran Canaria's most remote and unspoilt beach. It is a three hour hike from the nearest road and is best reached by boat. Either take a day trip from Puerto Rico that includes a stop at Gui Gui, or the water taxi from Puerto de Las Nieves

There is much more about Gui Gui in this post:

Watertaxi to the Legendary Gui Gui Beach

Do you know of another beach in Gran Canaria that deserves to be on this list. Which Gran Canaria beach is your favourite? Leave a comment and let me know!

Great YouTube video of Veneguera Beach and Valley:

Want to know more? Click on these links for the best posts on the Sunshine Guide to Gran Canaria:

Mogan

Car Rental in Gran Canaria

Ditch The Bull: Traditional Canarian Souvenirs Worth Buying

2012-02-19T10:18:00.003Z

Traditional Canarian knife

Looking for something to take home to remind you of your holiday in Gran Canaria? Skip the back-scratcher, the novelty bottle opener and the wonky plastic bull and get an authentic Canarian souvenir.

Canarian Knives

Traditional Canarian knives are kniown as "nifes".They have wide blades and a round handle that can be wooden or inlaid with horn and bone. They come with a plain or decorated leather sheath. Nifes were used for everything from cutting cheese to pruning banana trees. Today they are worn during fiestas and romerias, along with traditional Canarian clothes.

Old Canarian knives were made from scrap metal from old cars such as Model-T Fords. This made their thin blades very sharp, but prone to wear down over the years. Genuine old ones with worn down blades are collectors items, and worth a lot of money.

You can buy nifes as souvenirs in resort shops but it worth tracking down a hand-made one that is made by a craftsman. This blog has a nice selection of hand-made knives. Look in village shops and local markets for quality hand-made nifes.

Pottery

Canarian pottery goes back before the Spanish to the Guanches: The original inhabitants of the Canary Islands. Because there are no rivers on the islands, and therefore no natural clay, Canarian pots are made from volcanic ash that is processed by hand to make it usable. Traditional style pots are made by hand without a wheel, using coils of clay. Most modern pots are based on the shapes developed by the Gran Canarian Guanches. They are decorated with guanche motifs, including headless stick men, spirals and triangular designs.

The best Canarian pots are sold in craft markets such as the Sunday market in Teror, or during local fiestas and romerias.

Rum

Some people believe that rum was invented in the Canary Islands back when sugar cane was a major crop. Canes is still grown on the islands, and most of it ends up being made into local rum. The two main brands are Arehucas and Artemi, both from Gran Canaria.

Canarian rum is golden, and is as good as any Cuban or Caribbean drink. You can but it in most supermarkets on the island, or visit the Arehucas Distillery for free samples and a huge selection of different rums and liqueurs.

Cigars

Hand rolled cigars from La Palma island are rated by cigar lovers as being second only to Cuban cigars. Many Cuban tobacco farmers are descended from Canarians!

There are often men making cigars by hand at romerias and craft fairs. It's worth paying for a few quality Palmero cigars if you enjoy a good smoke. Most resorts have a specialist cigar shop, where you can get hold of quality local smokes, and some of the best-priced Cuban cigars in Europe. Most

Other Stuff

Canarian women used to be famous for making lace, especially in fishing villages. The tradition has almost died out because it takes so long. Most lace work sold in souvenir shops is made abroad and shipped in. You can still find some authentic lace work for sale in craft shops.

Craftsmen still make baskets out of reeds, as well as felt hats and leather drinking pouches. Most shops also have modern ceramics and paintings.

Want to know more? Click on these links for the best posts on the Sunshine Guide to Gran Canaria:

Nudist Beaches in Gran Canaria

Nature in Gran Canaria

Playa del Ingles

Maspalomas

Mogan

Las Palmas

Walking in Gran Canaria

Car Rental in Gran Canaria

Gran Canaria Cycling: The Perfect Winter Training Destination

2012-02-17T12:44:00.002Z

Cycling in the mountains of Gran Canaria (in December)

Confronted by a huge hill and windy roads, some people can't think of anything better to do that cycle up it really fast. Gran Canaria, almost 2000 metres high but only 60 kilometres across, is a paradise for this breed of cyclists: Lunatics in lycra I call them!

Gran Canaria's temperate winter climate, well-maintained roads and steep valleys make it the perfect place for winter cycle training. A few years ago local enthusiasts had them all to themselves. Now you can hardly move in the mountains for British, Spanish, and Italian cyclists. Every plane that arrives has a hold stuffed with road bikes and space-age helmets.

Many of Europe's best cyclists come to Gran Canaria to train during the winter. While every other mountain in Europe is covered with ice and snow, temperatures on Gran Canaria hover around 20 degrees C. It gets colder at the top, but pedalling does wonders for your core temperature.

As well as Gran Canaria's amazing, almost car-free roads, a cycle holiday to the island includes all the benefits more normally associated with a holiday. Its sunny almost every day, even in the winter, the beaches are pristine, and the beer is cold. You are never more than a short walk away from the nearest shop selling pasta, and there are local cycling guides waiting to show you the best routes.

One man who is fanatical about cycling in Gran Canaria is Raymond Leddy of Cycle Gran Canaria. He has been up and down every hill on the island that he knows some of the goats by name. If you are planning a winter cycling break in Gran Canaria, then Raymond is your man. Just don't expect to get to the top of the hill faster than him!

Contact Cycle Gran Canaria via their website.

You can also book cycling trips,and rent bikes and transportation through Freemotion, based in Playa del Ingles.

Want to know more? Click on these links for the best posts on the Sunshine Guide to Gran Canaria:

Nudist Beaches in Gran Canaria

Nature in Gran Canaria

Playa del Ingles

Maspalomas

Mogan

Las Palmas

Walking in Gran Canaria

Car Rental in Gran Canaria

Seven Great Ways to See Gran Canaria From the Sea

2012-02-16T20:24:00.003Z

The ARC race goes from Gran Canaria to St. Lucia

It would be a shame to visit Gran Canaria and not go on at least one boat trip. You get a real sense of the size of the island and its volcanic landscape when you see it from the ocean. Look out for Cloud Rock or Roque Nublo, which can be seen right in the centre of the island on any clear day!

The island has a long seafaring history, and was one of Christopher Columbus' last stopping points on his first journey to America. 100 years ago most people who lived in the south of the island were fishermen. Now most work in the tourist industry, but they are still proud of their roots, and still enjoy the fish!

Glass-bottomed ferry

Several ferries run between the ports of Mogan, Puerto Rico and Arguineguin on the south coast of Gran Canaria. A one-way trip costs a couple of euros per person. Choose the glass-bottomed boats for a chance of spotting barracuda, rays and even dolphins. Ferries run all day.

The Fishing co-operative in Arguineguin marina does excellent seafood at local prices. It calamares are particularly good!

Big game fishing

Gran Canaria's deep waters are full of big game fish like wahoos, tuna and marlin. If you fancy a go at catching a truly big fish, then head to the Puerto Rico marina and book a spot on a big game boat. If the tuna are running, or the marlin are close in to the shore, you have a very good chance of seeing some action. Island boats regfularly land big yellowfin tuna, black marlin, barracuda, mahi mahi and wahoo. Most of the boats catch and release all the marlin they catch, but check before booking.

Several boats also offer bottom fishing if there are no game fish around. Pick one that goes after grouper and amberjack, rather than just bashing dogfish closer to the shore. A spot on a fishing boat will cost you about 100 euros for the day, including lunch.

Ferry to Tenerife or Fuerteventura

Most visitors to the Canary Islands stay on the island the island they fly into. If you want to explore a bit more, get the fast ferry from Gran Canaria to Tenerife. It leaves from Puerto de las Nieves, in the north west corner of Gran Canaria and goes to Tenerife's capital Santa Cruz. The trip takes an hour and costs about 10 euros per person. It's best to leave your car in Gran Canaria, as your hire car insurance won't cover you on another island. Santa Cruz's centre is small enough to explore on foot.

Also consider the fast ferry from Las Palmas to Fuerteventura. It takes four hours, so you need to stay in Fuerteventura for a few days to make the trip worthwhile.

ARC Race

True adventurers can hang around Las Palmas marina in November and find a place on one of the 300 yachts that take part in the annual ARC Race to St Lucia. Lots of boats accept crew, especially if you have some sailing experience. The trip takes about three weeks if you joining a cruising yacht, much less if you are on one of the serious racers. Getting back to Gran Canaria from the Caribbean might be more challenging: The race only goes one way! Click here for ARC Race Images.

Boat Charter

There are yachts, catamarans, gin palaces and even a pirate ship running day trips out of Mogán harbour and Puerto Rico's twin marinas. Some are leisurely cruises that take you to deserted beaches such as Gui Gui, while others are hedonistic pleasure trips involving water sports, booze and drinking games. You pay your money and takes your choice!

Dolphin Watching

The Spirit of the Sea and other similar boats do daily dolphin and whale watching trips out of Puerto Rico. They are so confident that you will see dolphins that they offer a free trip the next day if Flipper is having a day off! Bottlenose dolphins, pilot whales, spinner dolphins and big whales are regularly spotted. You may even see one of the rare and mysterious beaked whales that live off Gran Canaria.

Water Taxi

The water taxi from Puerto de Las Nieves to Gui Gui is the only way of seeing Gran Canaria's rugged west coast from the sea. No boat trips head up that way because there is a very rough patch off the south west coast. The water taxi is a big dive boat with bench seating. It wwhizzes locals and visitors to several secluded beaches along the north west coast before stopping in La Aldea de San Nicolas; tthe only big town in the area. Then it heads on to the legendary Gui Gui Beach. This patch of golden sand is a four hour walk from the nearest road, so you might have it all to yourself. There are no facilities on Gui Gui, but it does have a hermit, and the best sunsets on the island. . The water taxi takes an hour to get to Gui Gui, and will pick you up the same afternoon, or the next day. Click here for a post all about Gui Gui Beach

Want to know more? Click on these links for the best posts on the Sunshine Guide to Gran Canaria:

Daily Menus: The Best Value Food in Gran Canaria

Nudist Beaches in Gran Canaria

Nature in Gran Canaria

Playa del Ingles

Maspalomas

Mogan

Las Palmas

Walking in Gran Canaria

Car Rental in Gran Canaria

Canarian Food: Ancient Potatoes to Get Special Status

2012-02-15T11:24:00.000Z

Ancient Canarian potatoes to get protected status

29 different varieties of Canarian potato are about to get protected "Denominacion de Origen" status in Europe. This means that they will only be grown on the islands, and by only traditional means. Hopefully, it will protect them and encourage people to grow and eat them. This way, their rare genes and disease resistance will still be around when we need them.

All ships that travelled from South America to Spain used to stop in the Canary Islands to trade and re-provision. They brought tropical fruit such as the pineapple, flowers like bougainvillea, and dozens of different types of ancient potatoes. These thrived in our rich soils and spread from farm to farm. Nowadays many of them are very rare and only grown by a few traditional farmers. Many are in danger of disappearing despite having unique flavours and textures.

The most common use of Canarian potatoes is in the traditional dish called "papas arrugadas con mojo". Small spuds are boiled in seawater until their skin wrinkles up and gets a faint crust of salt. They are served with a spicy red sauce made from oil, vinegar, paprika, cumin and tomato. Traditionally papas con mojo was made with papas negras, or black potatoes, from Tenerife. These are in short supply so most people use commercial potatoes. Papas negras are smaller than a ping-pong ball and have irregular shapes. Their skin is dark brown to purplish black and their flesh yellow.

The 29 rare varieties of Canarian potato that are top be protected are an important resource for future breeders and farmers. They are genetically much more diverse than common potato varieties such as King Edward's or Maris Piper's, and more resistant to diseases. Since they have been growing here for 500 years, Canarian potatoes are different from their South American ancestors. They are a unique and valuiable part of Canarian history and agriculture.

The Top Ten Canarian Foods You Can't Miss

Old Clothes and Wrinkly Popes: The Complete Guide to Canarian Food
Nutritious Potaje Soup: A Delicious Canarian Recipe

Underwater Gran Canaria: Scuba and Snorkelling

2012-02-13T18:12:00.001Z

Octopus are everywhere in the sea around the Canary Islands

Under the Water

Taking the plunge and getting underwater opens up an entirely new world. Snorkel kits are widely available in most shopping centres and are very reasonably priced, although for the sake of comfort, it is often best to spend enough to get a silicon rubber mask (about 25 euros). The plastic ones leak and hurt after a few minutes!

There are dive centres in most resorts and they cater for a wide range of abilities, from absolute novices to experienced divers. In some areas, there are commercial glass-bottomed boats and even submarines, which allow you to experience the underwater world without getting wet and with the added bonus of an experienced guide. You need to make ssure you have travel insurance that allows scuba diving!

In the south there are dive shops in all the resorts. Just wander in and chat to them to get a feel for them before you sign up. In Las Palmas, try Buceo Canario (928 23 20 85 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting 928 23 20 85 end_of_the_skype_highlighting). They have a good reputation, and offers a wide range of dives, including nitrox and night dives. They charge €45 per dive, but don't have a regular dive site schedule. You need your Scuba licence, and an insurance document stating that you are covered for diving. They recommend that you contact them a few days in advance, especially if you want to hit a particular site. El Cabron is the premiere dive, although it is 45 minutes by dive boat from Las Palmas. Other notable sites include the La Catedral cave, the Kalais wreck, and Canteras beach.

Snorkelling and Diving

The sea around the Canary Islands is remarkably clear and an ideal site to try snorkelling. A mask and breathing tube allows the swimmer to become part of the underwater landscape in comfort, and to explore features such as caves that are otherwise inaccessible. From sandy, crowded beaches to rocky shores, the snorkeller is guaranteed to find a dazzling array of life. In this section, we will take a look at the different ecosystems of the Canarian coastlines, highlighting the creatures most likely to be encountered.

While the sea around the islands is largely safe, it is always best to stick to defined swimming areas and avoid sites where nobody else is swimming. Most beaches have a warning system in place, with a red flag denoting dangerous conditions and a yellow flag caution when swimming. Lifeguards are available on most beaches and will be able to provide up to date information about the safety of bathing. In any case, the number of small leisure craft and jet skis in use makes it advisable not to swim out too far without the use of a dive buoy. Technically you need a dive buoy to snorkel anywhere outside roped off swimming areas! Certain stretches of coast experience powerful waves and strong currents and are dangerous for even the strongest swimmers.

Sandy Bottoms

For most visitors to the islands, sand is an everyday feature of the trip. The beaches around the islands, both natural and artificial, are usually made up of fine-grained golden sand. At first glance, it is a uniform and seemingly barren habitat that does not look like it supports a wide variety of sealife. However, the life is there and merely needs to be searched out. The trick is to look for features, either in the form of seagrass beds, underwater hummocks or isolated rocks where creatures tend to congregate. Even the buoys that mark out swimming areas are well worth investigating for the variety of life they harbour. Small pilot fish and remoras often latch on to buoys until a more mobile host turns up.

Bare Sand

Even areas of completely bare sand support specialist animals. Small flatfish rise from the bottom if the swimmer gets too close. They are often seen in pairs and are surprisingly curious and unafraid of divers. They have a habit of settling on the bottom and disappearing in a puff of sand, leaving only their protruding eyes above the sand. In the Canaries, flatfish are known as tapaculos, of bum-covers.

A more sinister occupant of sandy bottoms is the solitary, sand coloured weever, with its bright blue and poisonous dorsal spines. These fish, up to about 45cm long, are responsible for most of the injuries incurred in Canarian waters, for they inflict a painful sting on bathers unwary enough to tread on them. They are best left well alone. The very similar lizard fish is harmless and distinguished from the weever due to a lack of dorsal spines and its enormous mouth. They are not at all shy and confident enough of their camouflage to allow close observation. Lizard fish are avowed cannibals and will eat anything that will fit into their mouths. There are cases of large ones swallowing smaller examples hooked by fishermen, spitting them out reluctantly when they leave the water.

A curious sand specialist is the pink cleaver wrasse, easily identified by its narrow rectangular head and fierce teeth. It has the almost miraculous ability to disappear in a flash if disturbed, burying itself in the loose sand faster than the eye can follow. It feeds on crustaceans and molluscs hiding in the sand.

Other fish that like sandy bottoms include the herrera, an elongated silver bream with fine black stripes. While it can grow quite large, shoals of smaller examples are more lcommon. They tend to hug the bottom and have characteristic fleshy, white lips. Other breams, or sargos as they are known locally, are also often seen on sandy bottoms and can form large shoals. They can be distinguished from the less frequent spotted bass by their rounder shape and stripes.

Although not tied to sand, large groups of palometas, grey mullet, salemas, bogas, mackerel, sardines and other pelagic fish often come in close to the shore for shelter and can form spectacular shoals. Look for them just beyond the surfline. Wherever large groups of small fish are to be found, the predatory barracuda, needlefish and bluefish are unlikely to far away. A feeding shoal of these fierce fish can be a spectacular, if gruesome sight and the highlight of a swim.

Perhaps the most spectacular sight on sandy bottoms are the rays. Chuchos are the most common and grow up to 250cm long and weigh 250Kg, while the wider mariposa grows up to 50Kg. Both are equipped with tail stings and should not be disturbed. The electric ray is guitar-shaped and can deliver a dangerous shock if handled. A few careless speargun fishermen get zapped every year!

Seagrass Beds

Seagrass may look like a kind of seaweed, but is in fact the only land plant able to grow in the sea. It forms large lawns in water down to depths of 15m and provides a home for a plethora of small animals. Cuttlefish, related to the squid and octopus, are common in seagrass lawns. They are masters of disguise, changing not only their colour but the texture of their skin. If you are lucky enough to see two together, you will notice that they communicate through colour, changing from almost jet-black to white instantly, with different shades rippling hypnotically over their skin.

Sargos are common around seagrass, as they are everywhere, as are Red Mullet, a local delicacy. These pink fish make a living digging pits in the sand and eating exposed morsels, feeling for them with a pair of barbells under their chins. A feeding shoal of these fish often attracts others, including the pufferfish and triggerfish, both lazy opportunists. Among the fronds of seagrass lurk a wide variety of shrimps, small gobies and crabs, along with grotesque sea cucumbers, which do nothing but roll back and forth in the current, siphoning in water at one end and squirting it out of the other. Among the most remarkable seagrass specialist is the seahorse, very common in some areas but hard to spot and very shy. Patches of floating seagrass uprooted during storms often harbour its relative the pipefish, just as shy and very well camouflaged. Another notable inhabitant in the culebre, a type of eel that looks exactly like a sea snake. They often shelter in sunken car tyres and are harmless, retiring fish. Another eel lives in colonies of several hundred and spends its life half buried in the sand. If a diver approaches to closely, the eels will disappear, emerging when the coast is clear.

Rocky and Mixed Bottoms

Rocky bottoms are the snorkelling and diving sites par excellence of the Canary Islands. Here the widest variety of algae, fish and invertebrates live and feed, taking advantage of the cover afforded by caves, cracks and attached seaweed. Large boulders and rock formations attract schools of smaller fish, which in turn draw in predators. Grotesque scorpionfish lurk under overhangs while fulas and pejeverdes abound. Pufferfish and triggerfish are in their element on mixed bottoms, along with white-faced blennies and a plethora of goby and other small species. Rocks covered with algae are home to several species of small green wrasse, which can be very common. A particularly striking, bright yellow sponge is also common on large boulders. It takes many years to grow and loses its vivid colour very quickly if removed from the sea.

Large schools of grunts or ‘roncadores’ are a common site amongst rocks and are locally called snoring fish due to the loud noises they sometimes make. Roncadores are still very abundant around the islands because they do not enter fish traps. They are shy creatures that feel safe in large groups. Several thousand can sometimes be found in very shallow water. Sargos are common and the large and solitary ‘sargo breado’ is a spectacular sight, growing to over 50cm. They are often seem hanging off schools of other fish and are wary of divers and inclined to flee into deeper waters if disturbed.

Multicoloured Parrotfish or Viejas are most likely to be encountered on rocky bottoms, browsing on small animals in large, mixed-sex schools. Once heavily fished as a local delicacy, a reduction in the harvest is now allowing the Vieja to recover and it is returning to its old haunts. Large examples, up to at least 50cm, are still rare, but shoals of up to 50 of these peaceful fish are becoming a feature of some sites. Where speargunning is banned, they are quite tame and smaller specimens are curious and will come and investigate swimmers.

Viejas are sexually dimorphic, with the males a grey-brown colour with a marked black spot behind the head, while the females are brightly decorated in red, yellow and blue. Both sexes have distinctive protruding teeth in the shape of a parrot’s beak. The vieja is susceptible to sea lice and many examples have at least one of these parasites attached behind the head. The vieja’s favourite food is crabs and they are caught in large number using salted crabs on large hooks. Fishermen on small boats locate schools using a small glass-bottomed box, fishing for them with cane rods tipped with a ray’s tail.

Caves on rocky bottoms are well worth investigating, as they shelter species that only come out to feed at night. Red ‘alfonsitos’, looking remarkably like goldfish, and the larger ‘catalufas’ are common. Lucky divers or snorkellers will encounter grouper caves, where several specimens of different sizes live together. The fortunate few will find a yellow ‘abae’, a rare morph of this common grouper, usually brown with black marks. Meros and abaes can become quite tame and soon get used to being hand fed, to the point that large examples, up to 2m long, will pester divers incessantly. The debate about feeding these magnificent fish continues as tame and well-fed examples become easy targets for unscrupulous speargun fishermen.

Caves are also the best place to see sea urchins, in a variety of colours, sea anemones, sea cucumbers, sea hares and sponges. Long-spined black sea urchins are common and have assumed plague proportions in some areas, grazing so intensively that algae has no chance to grow. Areas of white rock covered in urchins are called Urchin Bights and tend to support fewer fish than areas without urchins. Part of the problem is the overfishing of predators such as triggerfish and triton shells, which keep urchin numbers under control. Some divers crush these urchins whenever they can in a bid to control them but this is not advisable, as the spines are poisonous. The urchin’s long spines also provide a home for a variety of juvenile animals and small creatures, such as shrimps and spider crabs.

Octopus are the star cave inhabitant, as they are house proud animals and keep the entrance to their particular cave spotlessly clean. A small cave surrounded by weedless rock, small pebbles and crab carapaces is very likely to contain an octopus. Rarely completely hidden, they tend to sit at the entrance to their home, watching their neighbours. If disturbed, they slip into their cave and block up the entrance using their collection of pebbles. If pressed, octopus, or ‘pulpos’ as they are known locally, shoot off using their siphons for propulsion and leaving a cloud of brown ink behind them. In some places they are extremely common and you are almost always being watched by at least one pulpo when swimming in the Canaries.

For a guide to seeing underwater stuff without getting wet, check out the lazy man's guide to underwater life in Gran Canaria.

The Lazy Man's Guide to Underwater Gran Canaria

2012-02-13T15:33:00.005Z

All sorts of sea creatures can be seen in the Canary Islands without getting wet!

If you can't face getting wet, then read the lazy man's guide to underwater Gran Canaria. It's full of tips for spotting fish, octopus and whales without actually having to get in the water. It's amazing what you can spot while staying within easy reach of your beer.

The second part will cover the underwater scene for people who prefer their water in oceans, rather than in ice cubes.

The Lazy Man's Guide to Underwater Gran Canaria

Most people spend a lot of time on the beach in the Canary Islands but few take the chance to dive or snorkel here. It's a shame, because just spending an hour hovering over the rocks with a mask shows you a brand news side of the islands. If you don't Scuba, then take the plunge with a mask and snorkel and you soon see what the fuss is about. The Canaries are about the only place in Europe where you dive all year round in clear, warm water.

The sea around the Canary Islands is much cooler than many people expect due to the Cold Canary Current, which brings cool water down from Northern Europe. It is this water that gives the islands their world famous climate. Without it, temperatures would be much higher and the archipelago much dryer than it is. Given our position in the Atlantic, close to both the tropics and the Mediterranean, the sealife in our waters is a unique mix of the tropical, the temperate and the pelagic.

Species more likely to be found over coral reefs mix with cold water species from Europe, and with those more typical of the open ocean. Combined with the spectacular volcanic origins of the Canary Islands, this diversity of life makes them a unique and very special marine environment.

Huge tracts of virgin yellow sand, interspersed with lawns of seagrass exist alongside breathtaking underwater cliffs and jumbles of lava rock. Whales and dolphins and turtles are frequent visitors and big game fishermen have set dozens of world records off our coasts. Close to the shore, colourful shoals of Parrotfish graze on rocks that harbour moray eels and brightly coloured wrasse and damsel fish. Seahorses live in the seagrass and huge rays patrol the bottom. Octopus and cuttlefish are abundant, along with a colourful carpet of smaller organisms, from sea urchins to spider crabs. The octopus are always watching you, even if you only have a toe in the water!

Ports and Harbours

There is a surprising amount of wildlife in even the busiest Canarian harbours and they are a good place to find it without going too far from the cocktail bar. A good tip is to throw spare bread into the water. Noisy Argentinean Gulls pick up floating crusts and a selection of fish come and feed on the bits that sink. Look out for mullet with their white lips and the plumper salemas, with fine yellow stripes. Close to the harbour walls, bright blue fulas or damsel fish and the multicoloured pejeverde wrasse hang out, along with white faced black gobies and the occasional puffer or triggerfish. If you are lucky, you may spot an octopus tentacle protruding from a cave, or even the ugly head of a moray eel!

Large groups of barracuda, up to a metre and a half long, hang around under the boats in harbours. They tend to swim in shoals of between ten and two hundred and can be recognised due to their elongated shape and pointed mouths. They are voracious predators, much sought after by big game fishermen, but never attack humans in Canarian waters.

At night, manta and eagle rays feed around harbour lights. A torch shone down the walls will reveal bright red alfonsitos, like sea-goldfish, and the larger red and white catalufas, which have large eyes that glow in torchlight. Black and silver sargos are much more active at night. They hunt in mixed packs!

A visit to a fishing port in the evening is a good way of seeing some of the commercial sport fish landed in the islands. Traditional fishing boats bring in varied catches, caught either with fish traps called ‘nasas’, nets or longlines. Look out for the multicoloured ‘viejas’ and the grotesque but very tasty scorpionfish. Larger fishing boats and big game boats catch a variety of tunny fish, sharks, swordfish and marlins, bluefish and large bream and grouper.

The Open Ocean

A trip on an inter-island ferry or a water-taxi is often a rewarding experience for those looking for wildlife. Shearwaters and petrels are always there, flying close to the water’s surface. Graceful terns are often seen around the coast: A group of them plunging into the sea to catch small fish is a beautiful sight.

Dolphins are common in our waters and often ride the bow waves of ferries. Among the larger cetaceans, pilot whales are common, especially around Tenerife, and sperm and killer whales are often seen around the Eastern Islands. Over 35 species of whale and dolphin have been seen around the Canaries: More than anywhere else on Earth! Several sea turtle species are also common in Canarian waters. The giant leatherback turtle may even breed in Fuerteventura!

Other creatures to look out for are blue and hammerhead sharks, Portuguese man o’war jellyfish, flying fish and manta rays.

Beachcombing

A wide selection of shells and other objects wash up on Canary beaches, especially after storms. Among the most common are cuttlefish bones, well known due to their use as a source of calcium for canaries. Delicate spiral Ramshorns, from a seldom seen squid, are very common along the strand line. Also frequent after rough weather are the very delicate lilac shells of the Janthinidae. These open ocean snails live under a raft of bubbles, only washing up on the shore after they die. Stranded jellyfish also wash up after stormy weather: their tentacles sting for hours after the strand!

Common shells to be found empty along the coastline of the canaries include sea urchins carapaces without the spines. These can be green, purple or brown and are as beautiful as they are fragile. Venus Ear shells are easily recognisable, with one side covered in mother of pearl. The living venus ear lives stuck under rocks, emerging after dark to graze on algae. Limpets, winkles and dog whelks are common all around the Canaries, while cowries, mussels, cockles and scallops also turn up. Goose barnacles can be found attached to almost any piece of floating debris that has been in the water for a while

Rocks and Rockpools

Rockpools are the best place to see a wide selection of sealife without getting too wet. Low tide leaves large areas of rock exposed around the coast, trapping animals that cannot normally be seen without a mask and snorkel. In general, the less time rocks are exposed to the air, the more life is found on and among them. Especially low Spring and Neap tides expose areas that are usually underwater and these can yield very rich pickings for the naturalist.

Some caution is needed when exploring rockpools, as the tide comes in fast and exposed rocks can be very slippery. A few of the animals that are found can also cause damage. Sea urchin spines snap off under the skin and cause painful injuries, while the red and white bristleworms to be found under rocks are best avoided, as their bristles irritate the skin. Brown sea cucumbers exude a white fluid when handled, which is very hard t o remove from skin or clothing. Small scorpionfish, often trapped in rockpools, have poisonous spines and large crabs can deliver nasty nips with their powerful claws. It is always best merely to observe any creatures found, as much for the observers benefit as theirs. Do not forget to replace any rocks that you turn over and make sure any shells you take home do not already have a rightful owner.

The most obvious creatures to be found on exposed rocks are the birds, which settle to feed and rest at low tide. As well as the ever present Argentinian Gull, schoolmaster-like Grey Herons and comic Little Egrets are common and easy to spot. They lurk close to the waters edge, preying on trapped fish and unwary crabs and shrimps. A closer look will often reveal a number of smaller and less obvious birds. Whimbrels are common, and recognised due to their long curved bill and distinctive call when disturbed. Turnstones stick to pebbly areas, earning their name by moving small stones in search of worms and crustaceans hiding underneath. In Spring and Autumn, large, mixed flocks of migrating shorebirds are often seen, resting and feeding before continuing on their way. Among the more exotic birds seen occasionally along our coasts are the graceful avocet and the bulbous billed spoonbill.

Rockpool Inhabitants

Even the smallest and shallowest rockpool is likely to have fish living in it. Gobies and blennies are small specialists in this particular habitat and, with patience, can be tempted to take bread or squid from the hand. Baby mullet and sucker fish are also often found in the smallest pool. In deeper pools closer to the low tide mark, the number of fish species to be found increases. Fulas and pejeverdes are common, while small sargos, mullet, grouper, wrasse, pufferfish and scorpionfish are also evident. In deep pools with caves, moray eels lurk, along with grouper and a wide variety of other fish.

Other organisms to be found in rockpools include small, transparent shrimps, which will often come and nibble on a foot left in the water, a variety of crabs, including the hairy ‘jaca’, which is very tasty and much sought after. Brown sea hares, with black circular marks, and sea cucumbers are often found in cracks and caves, along with a wide variety of sea urchins and anemones. A careful search among the seaweed will often reveal small but brightly coloured sea slugs and starfish. Bright red Sally Lightfoot crabs are easily spotted on exposed rocks, but are very shy. They are caught in the Canaries with bait wrapped in a ball of rough thread, which tangles up their claws. At night, tubeworms extend their delicate fans and pluck small morsels from the water and crabs come out to feed, safe from the sleeping seabirds.

Perhaps the best way to find rockpool inhabitants is to turn over rocks and stones. This should be done very sparingly and the rocks carefully replaced as many of the creatures found under them are killed by sunlight. Many rocks also have sea urchins underneath them. Look out for brightly coloured orange and yellow sponges, shy pea crabs and the highly mobile bristlestars, which will wriggle off as soon as they detect light.

For a guide to snorkelling and scuba diving in Gran Canaria, check out the Gran Canaria scuba and snorkelling guide.

Four things you never knew about the Canary Islands

2012-02-12T23:28:00.001Z

Gran Canaria island has its mysteries

1. Each island used to have its own language, culture and kings. Before the Spanish conquered the islands they were inhabited by a race of people known as the Guanches. There origins are a mystery, although they are thought to be from the Atlas mountains in North Africa. Experts believe that either the Romans of the Phoenicians left people on each island in order to use them as provision stops. Eventually they were forgotten, and lived in isolation for 1500 years. Guanche culture vanished within 100 years of the Spanish conquest, Many died of European diseases and in battle, and others were assimilated into society. Nowadays all that is left are idols, pots, cave homes, and lots of place names. The Spanish took their experience of genocide in the Canaries and went on to ravage South and Central America.

2. There are over 800 species of plants only found on the Canary Islands, 100 of which are only found on Gran Canaria. The islands are the botanical equivalent of the Galapagos Islands. Gran Canaria's dragon tree (Dracaena tamaranae) is probably the world's rarest tree. There are only about 15 of them growing on high cliffs in Arguineguin and Mogán.

3. It snows in Gran Canaria. Maybe not very often, or very much, but every few years it gets cold enough right at the top of the island for a light dusting of snow. When the snow does settle, so many Canarians head up into the hills to see it that there are often huge traffic jams. Everyone builds a snowman on the roof of their car and tries to drive back home with it.

4. There are people from 154 countries living in Gran Canaria. The island has over 28,000 South Americans, 16,000 Africans and 8,000 Asians. There is even one Papua New Guinean living somewhere on the island. This makes the island, and its capital Las Palmas, one of the most diverse places in Europe.

Gran Canaria News: The Daily Sunshine

2012-02-12T12:15:00.003Z

The Sunshine Guide to Gran Canaria now publishes its own daily newspaper. The Daily Sunshine comes packed full of news and interesting articles about Gran Canaria and the Canary Islands.

In the last few days it has covered stories such as the volcanic eruption on El Hierro, Orlando Bloom's Gran Canaria holiday, the best Valentine's spas in the Canaries, and easy-to-follow Canarian recipes.

Read the Daily Sunshine here. Don't forget to subscribe so that you get your daily dose of Sunshine.

Five Things in Gran Canaria that are in Danger of Disappearing

2012-02-11T10:59:00.002Z

Gran Canaria's beaches are threatened by oil prospecting

Tufia

Tufia is a tiny village on Gran Canaria's east coast. It clings to a little cliff above a bay, with a tiny beach and calm waters. Almost all of the 50 houses in Tufia have been declared illegal by the Canarian Government. They are due to be demolished unless a legal appeal succeeds. The problem is that the houses are too close to the sea, and were built in a nature reserve. The locals say that they have been there for years, and don't do any harm to anyone or anything. Tufia is a nice spot on the otherwise windy and barren east coast. Stop in for a snack on the beach front before it is too late!

The Maspalomas Dunes

Maspalomas' famous sand dunes used to cover a much larger area than they do today. The Charco or lagoon used to extend into the dunes, forming a wetland rich with wildlife. 100 years ago there was a colony of 10,000 terns that nested in the dunes.

Hotels and roads have penned the dunes in, and without the space to move about, they are fading away. Maspalomas' little bit of the Sahara Desert are losing a foot a year in height. Within 50 years they will only exist in nudists' memories. Short of demolishing the Maspalomas tourist resort, there is little that can be done. Suggestions include building offshore groynes to shelter the dunes from the waves, to pumping sand in from the seabed. Ecologists protest that these solutions are worse than the original problem.

More on Maspalomas and its Amazing Dunes here.

The West Coast Road

The wild road that runs down the west coast of Gran Canaria is on borrowed time. Within 10 or 15 years a new, inland route will be finished. The original cliff-edge route between between Agaete and La Aldea de San Nicolas is to be abandoned. It is too expensive to maintain, and too dangerous during the winter. Dozens of people have died due to rockfalls over the last 40 years.

Until the road drops into the sea it is one of Europe's great drives. Clinging to the cliff edge up to 1.5km above the sea, it is car advertisement paradise. Don't worry about safety during the summer or dry periods of winter. The road is only potentially hazardous during and just after rain.

Read all about the Awesome West Coast Road in this post.

The Palm Trees

Gran Canaria's endemic palm trees threatened by a bright red beetle called Rhynchophorus ferrugineus. This nasty little invader carries a fungus that is lethal to Canarian palm trees (phoenix canariensis). The only way to stop the beetle from spreading is to treat each tree with buy spray and fungicide, or chop it down. Unless Rhynchophorus can be controlled, there will be more Canary palm trees on Sunset Boulevard in LA than in the Canary Islands.

Check out this photo of the evil beetle on Flickr.

The Beaches

Plans are afoot to prospect for oil between the Canary Islands and Morocco. Spain's economic woes mean that the government can't afford to ignore black gold on its doorstep. The problem for the Canary Islands is that almost all the money from prospecting will flow back to Mainland Spain, but any oil spills will destroy the beaches and the tourist trade. If the prospectors strike oil, it is very bad news for everyone on the islands. That is why Spain's Energy, Industry and Tourism Minister, formerly the president of the Canary Islands, had to make a run for it on Lanzarote yesterday. Canarian members of his own party had to be restrained by the poilce after he told them that oil prospecting would go ahead whether they liked it or not! Good bit of PR there for thee weasel Jose Manuel Soria!

Want to know more? Click on these links for the best posts on the Sunshine Guide to Gran Canaria: