It’s not every ski destination that offers the lift skier a tour. Typically, the alpine skier locks in and proceeds to yo-yo an area. All good, but imagine moving from point A to point B during the yo-yo process. In the Dolomites it is very much possible to lock in, drop in, and travel.

Dolomiti Superski

Thanks to the Dolomites extensive ski lift network, it is quite easy to travel around the entire region on skis. There are services that provide bag transfers so you can ski from one hotel to the next, linking runs, trams, lifts and the occasional ski bus to your destination. But the most famous of all “tours” is the Sellaronda Loop. While it isn’t point to point, it is a journey. You’ll circumnavigate the famous Sella massif, a huge island of Dolomite towers and vertical walls that may well be the very heart of the Dolomites. En route, you’ll pass three languages (German, Italian and Ladin) and see everything from idyllic ski towns to deep valleys on up to the highest mountain in the range, the Marmolada. During the summer, the Dolomites are beautiful, but it is in winter that they really show their character of sharp peaks, massive towers, shark fin walls and mind boggling relief. Throughout the entire loop, you will be in a landscape so stunning that you will not believe it possible.

Along the way are countless huts, bars, and ski restaurants. Most are blatantly obvious piste-side while others are hidden away, tucked into the forest where local knowledge is necessary to find them, and well worth the effort. One ski pass gets you access to the entire Dolomite ski area – the Dolomiti Superski which costs between €40-50 depending on the season, cheap when compared to the $100 American ski pass – and you get so much more…

The Sellaronda Loop

The Sellaronda is done from any of the four valleys and their villages butting up to the Sella; Canazei, Arabba, Selva di Gardena and the Alta Badia’s Corvara, San Cassiano or La Villa. The loop can be done in either direction, clockwise or counter clockwise, both are well marked. The entire loop has many options to add additional skiing or sightseeing. We started in Corvara at 8:30, made lots of photos, had a grappa, a long lunch, repeated a few runs and were back in Corvara as the lifts were closing just after 4:00. We skied 45km with 5200 meters of descent. Had we been skiing more and distracted less, we could have easily done a few more big lifts and gotten another 3000 meters. Point being… you can cover some ground.

Consider using a local guide so as to maximize your skiing and minimize time trying to make sense of it all. It’s a big tour and a massive piste network, you don’t want to come up short when the lifts close. To add to the experience, you’ll want to eat the best food and this absolutely requires help for there are some very special stops along the way. No matter if you want a pasta, a knödel or cajinci you have Italian, German and even the truly local Ladin culture all influencing the cuisine.

Like the Haute Route for a backcountry skier, the Sellaronda is a Must Do for any alpine skier’s tick list – put it near the top.

Dolomites Services

For full information about the Sellaronda including gear rental, guide services and ski instruction for the entire Dolomite region, visit Holimites.com

What better way to launch the new DolomiteSport than with a boost of loving support from Rock & Ice Magazine’s January 2013 issue – with our image on the cover, and the article claiming the Dolomites as the “World’s Best Multi-Pitch Destination”.

But the Dolomites may well be “World’s Best” for many things. We hope the site, and our images, will show off what and why – and to encourage you to visit.

With an all new look, layout and updated information, DolomiteSport is ready for more content. Which means we need to get out of the office. New info includes Climbing & Via Ferrata categories, a climbing photo gallery, and info pages for both the Alta Via 1 and Alta Via 2. The function of DolomiteSport is split between providing comprehensive information about the Dolomites for visiting mountain sport enthusiasts and a home for our own stories from life as full time professional mountain sport photographers.

DolomiteSport is a place where we get to show more than just our photo work, we get to share our passion for playing in the mountains and traveling.

We hope you’ll dig in and get inspired to visit what is certainly one of the world’s most beautiful places.

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Tumblr : PatitucciPhoto

Thanks to the success of our European Grand Ski Tours comparison, we have decided to follow up with a summer version. In this case, ten famous treks found around the world. Obviously there are big ones missing, the PCT, Colorado Trail, Appalachian, Annapurna, etc… but we can’t do them all. Nevertheless, there are some famous ones, and others less so but special in their own way. And, we have done all of these so the comparison is possible.

The goal here is to rate them based on several criteria, provide some basic details for each, and then let the readers decide which is best for them should they be pondering a “What next”. Finally, should visitors want to see photos of the treks themselves to get an idea of what they would be in for, our site www.patituccistock.com is the place, just search the site using locations and/or keywords. You’ll get professional imagery that should help you better understand how the treks look.

And now for our Top 10 list…

John Muir Trail : USA

Torres del Paine Circuit : Chile

Huayhuash Trek : Peru

Laugavegur Tour : Iceland

Tour of Mont Blanc : France, Italy, Switzerland

Summer Haute Route Chamonix to Zermatt : France, Switzerland

Dolomites Alta Via 1 & 2 : Italy

Sardinia’s Selvaggio Blu : Italy

Khumbu & Gokyo Valley Trek : Nepal

Langtang Trek : Nepal

The Criteria:

Views and Landscape : All of these tours have great scenery so this category is purely for the sake of comparison.

Wow Factor : Is the landscape and environment unique? Do you have scenery that leaves you stunned? And not just the standard mountain or natural environments, rather, big, awe inspiring, can’t believe where you are kind of vistas. Of course this one is subjective and relative to what else you have seen, so the rating is based on how the trek stacks up against the others on the list.

Food : If there are huts on the tour, and you have to use them, then the food quality there is judged. If your own cooking is required, then I don’t know how well you cook, so we’ll just default to a 4 out of 5 as the potential is there for great food. And, even freeze dried is fantastic when you carried that heavy pack full of cooking gear all day.

Logistics : Is the tour easy to drop in and do or are there a mountain of logistics; fees, permits, guides, porters, hut reservations, navigation, etc…? The number rating is based on how easy it is, a higher number is for how user friendly. Of course for some treks, using a guiding service makes all the difference between semi-epic and complete ease. And some treks, like Huayhuash, pretty much require you use a guide for many reasons which will be explained in the trek description. The rating will take into account all those things you must do to set out on the trek.

Culture : Are you going to experience something beyond the natural environment? Local people, lifestyle, history, etc…

Wildness/Remote : Are you on a journey that really removes you from the busy world? Is the likelihood of seeing others greatly reduced? Are you committed to the journey where that feeling of being “Out There” sets in?

Experience : The big factor and possibly the most subjective – we’ll consider the whole package of the trek. Again, this one must be considered only relative to the others on the list. How does the experience stack up – was the trip big in your life? Difficult situations tend to bring big reward, as do interactions with other cultures. The overall experience is based on what we walked away with in our hearts.

The John Muir Trail : USA

The John Muir Trail

Difficult, 12-20 days. This is the only trail we have not done in one push, rather in sections, so our packs were not as heavy as they might have been, as such logistics were made easier. The JMT ranks high on our list for a couple of reasons, it is very wild and remote and it is a trail you do entirely under your own power, it is the only true backpacking trail on the list. Difficulty comes from being at high elevations, often over 12,000 feet with many passes climbed throughout the length of the trail. Pack weight plays a huge role in the difficulty.

Logistical issues come in the form of permits & regulations. I loathe backcountry permits which may actually prevent you from going, and for the JMT these are required to set out, the dates of which may be affected based on availability. Bear canisters and lots of wilderness common sense are required.

Our great friend and photographer John Dittli has a superb book on the John Muir Trail : Walk the Sky

Torres del Paine Circuit : Chile

Hiking the Torres del Paine Circuit

Easy, 4-8 days. This is one of the tours where weather plays a huge role. Our first couple of days were in thick cloud cover and rain, we could have been anywhere. But when the clouds parted and the view developed, the wow factor was high. This is an all around tour, where there is a truly wild feeling combined with some local flavor in the form of the passing gauchos. For our trek, we used the huts, carried very little and did it quickly. Views of the Grey Glacier after the crazy descent of the “Monkey Trees” is unforgettable as are the glimpses up to the Towers.

As an overall experience the tour ranks high thanks to Chile itself. A visit to Puerto Natales, the bus ride to the park and the kindness of the people all left us impressed.

Huayhuash Trek : Peru

Hiking the Huayhuash Trek, Peru

Difficult, 9-12 days. Another trek critical with weather. Unfortunately our trip was greatly influenced by rain. But, we were a bit early in the season and set out knowing it would be wet. It was torrential. The season is really June – September, we went late April. Difficulty for this trek comes from being at such high elevation the entire time, always above 3500 meters with the majority of time above 4000 meters, camping as high as 4700 meters with passes to 5100 meters. The trails themselves are not difficult, mostly dirt paths.

We used a guide service for this trek, which most everyone does so as to utilize donkeys, a cook and get local knowledge. Also, unique to the tour are the “Protection Fees”. I thought they should be called camping fees, but apparently it is a kind of mafia that keeps trekkers safe. Each morning your camp is visited by a local who charges around US$5/person to pass through. Your guide will also help keep you clear of any issues. There is a bit of an odd feeling with the locals on this trek.

Food rating is low for the Huayhuash purely because the overall food quality in Peru is not great. I am biased as I hate chicken, and chicken is what they eat/serve. Nearly everyone who does this tour talks about food poisoning, I can vouch, I was extremely sick for two days. Bad food and funky logistics aside, the landscape is amazing and you’ll pass through small home sites at 4000+ meters that are truly unique and memorable. The overall experience is great, made complete with famous South American bus rides and strolls through native villages.

Laugavegur Tour : Iceland

The Laugavegur Trek, Iceland

Easy, 4-6 days. Probably a tour few in North America have heard of but undoubtedly one of our very favorite trips, we have done this trek three times! This is a trip that actually sets the standard for Wow Factor as day one and two are truly remarkable in terms of unique landscapes. We have a fully detailed write up here.

Tour of Mont Blanc : France, Italy and Switzerland

The Tour of Mont Blanc high above Chamonix

Medium, 3-12 days. The Tour of Mont Blanc is a unique tour in that if you are new to European hiking, it scores well on Wow and Experience. But, for veterans of the Alps, folks who have other big Euro treks notched on their belts, it is an average trek. Yes, the views are good but they are somewhat limited, it is the nature of having this beast of the Mont Blanc massif in the way all the time. Nevertheless, to walk around Mont Blanc is cool.

Our journey around Mont Blanc was not by hiking, we ran it, in three days. The tour is venue to arguably the world’s biggest and best Ultra Race, the Ultra Trail du Mont Blanc. Known for quality terrain, we gave it a go and spent the nights in Courmayeur and Champex. To be fair, it is possible that I looked at my feet more than the views when we did it. Still, it is a great tour, and certainly a classic. Our report of the three day run around Mont Blanc is here.

Summer Haute Route : France, Switzerland

Summer Haute Route in the Swiss Alps

Difficult, 12-15 days. Now we’re talking. A long, committing tour, big days, stunning views, culture, alpine terrain, this trek has it all. And it starts in one of the world’s most incredible places, Chamonix, and ends in one of the world’s most beautiful places, Zermatt. In between is a lot of walking up and down passes, through thick forests, and alpine fields.  Due to the length of the trek, weather is bound to be an issue. Carry good maps and take care to stay on course.

My memories of this trek are some of the best I have of hiking in the mountains. Being in the Alps for so many consecutive days, making walking what you do, and living in the mountain huts all make for an unforgettable experience. Instead of walking the Haute Route trail through the Mattertal, cap off the trip with the Europaweg Trail into Zermatt and you have the Matterhorn to stare at all day for the gran finale.

Dolomites Alta Via 1 or 2 : Italy

The Dolomites

Medium, 5-12 days. Both the Alta Via 1 and 2 are listed here as they are so similar. The AV1 is the classic long trail through the Dolomites, but the AV2 rivals it in many ways. Since it is the #2, it loses #1 status, which it may well deserve. Get my drift? Both trails are absolutely superb and while they parallel one another in close proximity, they are quite different. The AV1 stays closer to roads, towns and passes more through busier areas. Much of the AV1 is popular for day hikes making for much heavier trail traffic. Meanwhile, the AV2 is more remote, tougher to access some of the higher points, and it has the option of some very classic Via Ferrata right along the trail.

Both trails can be read about more extensively on our DolomiteSport Alta Via pages AV1 and AV2.

Sardinia’s Selvaggio Blu : Italy

The Selvaggio Blu, Sardinia

Medium, 4-5 days. This is probably the trail you haven’t heard of. While not necessarily deserving to be on the list of World’s Great Treks, it is a very unique experience in what is certainly one of the world’s most beautiful coastlines. Beginning in the small seaside village of Santa Maria Navaresse, the trails heads north along sea cliffs for 3- 5 days. There is almost no trail, only faint blue dots to mark the way. Almost everyone goes with a guide as the way is surprisingly difficult and actually quite remote. Several rappels are required and necessary water drops make logisitcs tricky. Each night, we dropped down from the high sea cliffs to the white sand beaches, which are busy during the day but empty in the evening. There we slept, and this is what makes the trek so fascinating. I really enjoyed this trek as it is not the typical hiking tour.

Khumbu & Gokyo Valley Trek : Nepal

Trekker in the Khumbu Valley, Nepal Himalaya

Difficult, 10-15 days. What has not been said about Nepal? Everyone knows that Nepal is home to Mount Everest and the Himalaya. The Khumbu Valley is the walk to get to Everest Basecamp and while it is very busy and commercial, it is truly a necessary experience for anyone who loves the mountains. The parallel valley, Gokyo, is an alternate to the busier Khumbu and can be done on the same tour as Khumbu, or all on its own. Gokyo Valley is equally as beautiful but without the name and as many famous stops along the way.

For us, Nepal was one of the best experiences of our lives. Not just for the mountains but for the overall experience, the people, the culture, Buddhism, and of course the Himalayan villages and Temples. We are planning our return to Nepal as I write this.

Langtang Trek : Nepal

Trekkers in the Langtang Valley, Nepal

Medium, 5-7 days. I decided to include this trek as it is appreciated more if one has also done the Khumbu or Gokyo Treks. This was the first trek we did in Nepal and while we liked it, we didn’t realize the importance of doing it until after we also did the Khumbu trek. Langtang Valley is a few days journey to its end. The scenery is nice, but not spectacular. It isn’t until the last day that you finally see some high mountains, and much of the trail is under a forest canopy. But, what the trail is for is the culture, the people you speak with, the tea you share with Tibetan nomads, the meals you eat in someone’s home and the time you spend just seeing how the people live in this remote part of the Himalaya. While the Khumbu is now developed as a huge, wide trail, complete with internet points, TV in the guesthouses, and locals very accustomed to seeing foreigners, Langtang is going back in time to a simpler way of living.

The Pfunderer Höhenweg / Alta Via di Fundres

Late in the fall of 2008, we found ourselves looking at one of the best ridgeline trails we had ever seen. We were trail running in the Zillertal Alpen above Bruneck and wanted to see a summit we know locals frequent for post work exercise, the Sambock. Once on top, the trail dropping off the north side of the summit came into view and for as far as our eye could see, stayed right on the high ridgeline until it disappeared into some higher mountains.

“What is this trail?” Maps would need consulting. The trail is the Pfunderer Hohenweg (Alta Via di Fundres in Italian) and stretches from Sterzing (Vipiteno in Italian) to Bruneck (Brunico). While traditionally done as a 5-6 day trek with huts available each night, we decided to see if the whole trail was as good as the first section for running. In June 2009 we set out with our friend Andreas Irsara to run its approximate 75 kilometer distance – but in 3 days.

Starting in Bruneck, we once again climbed to the summit of the Sambock where the trail becomes mostly runnable for the entire first day. Sticking to the same ridgeline we had seen the year before, the trails goes up and over numerous peaks all while providing unobscured views south to the Dolomites and the high alpine, glacier covered Zillertal Alpen peaks to the north. The trail continues like this for several kilometers before climbing a small pass, La Portella, and then a drop to the Teifrastenhutte (Rifugio Lago della Pausa). This would traditionally be a stopping point and for us it was, but only for a pasta, we would continue on to the Edelrauthutte.

This section of trail gets into some higher elevation and we discovered that the reason we were seeing no one on the trail was because much of it in the coming day would be snow covered. The winter of 2009 was a massive one and all the passes from here forward were still buried. But there are advantages to this – direct lines and fast descents. Cold, soaked feet seem a small price to pay.

Once at the Edelrauthutte we were greeted by Anton Weissteiner, quite possibly the kindest hut warden we ever had the pleasure of meeting. We were his guests for the night, and having been open only one day, we were able to take advantage of his early season enthusiasm. A four course meal satisfied our 33 kilometer effort. Seeing how disgustingly full we were, Anton saw fit to provide us with multiple glasses of grappa to aid in digestion, it did little for our stuffed guts but we did sleep well.

The next morning we set out on a modified route. Anton warned us of too much snow to cross a pass where ladders must be climbed. But a variation to the trail was no problem and we were on our way to the Bodenalm Hut and a quick late morning strudel before once again entering the high snow covered alpine areas. For us the second day was both roaring hot and ice cold. Dropping down low above the Pfundertal had us on south facing slopes and sweating. From here we climbed and climbed until we were on north facing slopes to climb the pass below the Punta Riva. In a completely white world we began questioning why we were doing this, in running shoes and lycra. Soaked and a bit frozen, we reached the col and were rewarded with a direct, snow covered line to the Brixner Hut 400 meters below. Minutes later, we were drying out and drinking coffee.

So far the trail, the terrain and the huts had been perfect. One day remained for our itinerary and it looked to be a different kind of terrain as we would be lower in elevation before dropping to Sterzing. But first more snow covered passes, the Rauhtaljoch is the morning’s climb to 2800 meters, and here we were once again in a white world all the way down to the Lago Selvaggio which was still frozen solid. Luckily all the snow was hard enough for us to stay on top of which actually made for faster speeds. Yet another pass above the lake before an enormous drop to the Simile Mahdalm, a small farmers home which looks deceptively like a hut but is in fact a working farm. And here the Pfunderer Hohenweg began to fall apart. Until this point the trail, while even snow covered, was very obvious. But now the trail became a faint goat path and climbed as steep as any trail I have ever seen. Vertical dirt is not easy to run. But we gained elevation quickly like this and soon were on top of the final pass, the Passo di Trens (Trenserjoch).

Overall the Pfunderer Hohenweg gets a B. For running it is perhaps a bit steep in places, but overall very runnable and high quality. For hiking, it is beautiful although there are many other trails a bit more interesting. The area around the Edelrauthutte is the best in terms of mountain environment while the rest of the trail is very indicative of the the lower Zillertal Alpen Group. One thing I realized after doing this trail was that I had seen the region, from the lower slopes with goat and cow farms to high rocky ridges and alpine terrain. The huts were superb, the food fantastic and being a point to point, a rewarding journey. The Pfunderer Hohenweg is recommended.

Thomas Voeckler with the Pain Face

This post is going to be a community effort – in other words, at the end of the story, I need your own contribution on this subject -but first, read on.

Recently, while suffering mightily in a race, I actually pondered the question, “What do other people think about in competitive events when they are suffering?” Apparently, I think about blogging. But not just this, I was trying to stay focused, maintain my breathing and be aware of my body to see where/if I could either save some energy or be more efficient at my max for the distance. But all of this only goes so far, at some point the other stuff creeps in; doubt, anxiety, longing to be finished, and fear of being caught. From my years of being a competitive athlete, I know that all this stuff needs to be managed.

What seems like a lifetime ago, I was a young road racer living in Davis, California. One spring I did California’s Visalia Road Race in a full field of 100 plus riders. Alone, with about 8 miles remaining and one big climb, I got away from the group. There, on the last climb, I realized that all my training was for this moment, and we don’t get them so often.

I’d spent the winter riding obsessively, also alone, in miserably wet, foggy and windy conditions of California’s Central Valley. I vividly remember days riding on partially flooded farm roads, where each pedal stroke dunked my foot in brown water. I can still see the rain drops as they dripped from the rim of my hat while I sat changing a flat tire with soaked, wrinkled skin and numb fingers in the muck on the side of some country road. It was no surprise I was the only one out.

In Visalia I managed to stay away, I rolled over the top of the climb and began my descent knowing I had a chance. Inside my head came the voices, “A chase group is coming”, “They are better descenders”, “They are closer than you think”, “How will I keep it together for the flat section to the finish?” This is the stuff that needs to be managed. “Fuck all that, this is why I spent all those hours sitting in the rain and wind.” For perhaps the first time in my life, I was 100% focused on what I wanted, everything else dropped away. Inside my Pain Face was one thing only, determination.

At the bottom of the descent I took the last right turn wide, got out of the saddle and started sprinting the final section of straight road through a corridor of orange trees. Ahead was the finish line and some audible cheers from the meager crowd. With 200 meters to go, I looked back over my shoulder to see the chase group in full pursuit. Every rider was out of the saddle sprinting towards the line. My Pain Face turned into something else when I looked forward again, I was crossing the finish first. From not having anything in my head to having it all, that moment is mine.

Still in a full sprint, I did something that surprised no one more than myself. I didn’t stop, I kept going, straight to my little white pickup where I jumped off my bike, threw it in the back, grabbed my hidden key, jumped in and sped away. What could have been my first big victory salute on a finish line was saved for the privacy of my own car. Maybe I wasn’t ready to get outside my head, I wanted it all to myself.

Ultimately, unless you are a professional athlete, the outcome does not matter – what matters is what goes on inside your head, for that is what you really experience.

My Question to You

What do you think about at times like this? You ultra runners… what are your thoughts at mile 80 when you’re hurting and full of doubt? Or, the ski mountaineering racers on those long and painful climbs when there are someone else’s ski tips on your tails? And you bike racers in a break wondering if everyone else hurts as much as you do as you rotate through to the front? What goes through your head? Are you focused on your body? Managing the stress? Thinking about ice cream? Or are your thoughts scrambled, a little of this, a little of that?

Please, for all you athletes regardless of what you compete in, leave a comment here and let’s hear your thoughts.

Thank you in advance to those the contribute.

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One of the most fun things we get to do as photographers is to see and use new products well in advance of their release. This was certainly the case when Petzl France contacted us to shoot photos for their new NAO Headlamp. Our job was to shoot trail and mountain running photos using this new lighting technology. Job done, the headlamps were our’s to keep using and put to the test for DolomiteSport.

It is very obvious that more and more people are using lighting systems to get them out after daylight hours. And why not? The lights have advanced to such a state that most anything is possible. Nowhere is this more true than with this new offering from Petzl.

Reactive Lighting is the technology. Above the NAO’s two lamps is a sensor which immediately interprets the distance and intensity at which the light must function. Aim the headlamp at your feet and you have enough light & contrast to see, raise your head and direct the light to infinity and the light instantly becomes a monstrously powerful high beam; easily enough light for descending on skis quickly, scope the next pitches or see where your running trail is taking you. The beam distance is about 100 meters at full intensity. But, aim it to your feet or just meters in front of you and the beam is back to normal headlamp output, saving both battery power and your eyes. Simply put, the headlamp instantly provides exactly the right amount of light you require based on where you look.

Petzl NAO Headlamp front view. The sensor is above the lamps. The large switch is on the left side in the photo, the black square knob.

I have been using the headlamp ski mountaineering training and have found it perfect. For descending, there is the added option of being able to change the light from reactive to a fixed high power beam with the quick flip of a large switch for gloved hands – easy. With the high beam activated, descents, even at the highest speeds and technical terrain are zero issue. This light can replace those massive Silva lights popular for so long.

While descending recently with a friend after a night ski mountaineering training session, I skied behind and cast my light in front of my friend. He said he felt like a snow cat was following him.

Here in Europe, the LED Lenser headlamps have become quite popular, denting the market for both BD and Petzl. The LED Lenser was an instant hit thanks to its massively powerful high beam in a small package. I too jumped on board and got one so I was able to compare the Petzl NAO and LED Lenser side by side. The Petzl NAO is much more powerful, only slightly larger, with better battery life and much more comfortable to wear on either the head or helmet. Perhaps the only slight disadvantage of the NAO is its size. If you’re familiar with the Petzl MYO RXP lamp, the NAO is just slightly larger but certainly not much heavier. However, for the small amount of added bulk, you have a lighthouse beacon on your head.

Petzl NAO Headlamp rear view with battery. The head strap is a combo elastic band and adjustable cinch cord which has proven very comfortable and secure with no irritating wiggle.

My battery tests are still a work in progress. But, with the NAO’s rechargeable battery, I seem to be getting about 6-8 hours on reactive lighting, and Petzl tells me this will drop to just a few hours if kept on a fixed high beam. With reactive lighting and the occasional switch to fixed high beam, I expect around 4-5  hours of battery life. I believe this is conservative, more than enough light for most uses. If you do need more battery life, carry a spare, they can be switched out while on the fly.

The battery itself is USB and capable of being charged from an iPhone charger with USB cable, ditto with the car charger – this has been handy.

System Summary

1. On/Off switch is easily adjusted with gloves on. Finally!!!  Bravo Petzl!

2. Extremely comfortable on the head.

3. It’s obvious real users designed the NAO.

4. You always have just the right amount of light, never left wanting more.

5. Petzl high quality.

Petzl tells me they have some additional features for this light coming soon… The NAO Headlamp will be available July 2012.

For the mountain sport athlete looking to perform at night, this is the light to use.

See and learn more about the NAO at Petzl.com

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Thanks to Manuel Riz www.manuelriz.blogspot.com

The Problem of Too Many Motorcycles in the Dolomites

(Note 12/19/11 : Thanks to so much great support, this post is getting a ton of traffic, BUT – having views means nothing if we are going to show it to the powers that can do something about this problem, PLEASE – Leave a comment)

Update April 28, 2012. Each of the major tourism offices around the Dolomite’s Sellaronda as well as Sudtirol tourism were contacted about this issue. All but Alta Badia refused to comment. Alta Badia asked, “What motorcycle problem?”

It’s time to bring up a nasty subject that many who visit the Dolomites experience in a very negative way. For years now I have felt growing anger and frustration for the thousands of motorcycles that come to the Italian Dolomites. I finally brought it up to locals, business owners and my athlete friends and promptly discovered I’m not the only one who feels this way. So angry are they that the subject is almost painful to discuss, for it seems nothing is being done about it. I however, am more than happy to publicly state my thoughts and make it clear that these motorcycles are a cancer to this amazing region.

Motorbikes on the Passo Gardena

The Dolomites are unarguably one of the world’s most beautiful landscapes and everyone has the right to experience them. But why is one user group allowed to negatively impact the experience of all the others while at the same time causing numerous disturbances to the natural environment in the forms of noise and exhaust pollution as well as a very real threat to the safety of others.

The problem is that motorcyclists come from all over Europe to ride the Dolomite’s famously steep and curvy mountain roads. This is fine as an activity, but the manner in which all too many do it is completely irresponsible on the part of both the riders and local authorities.

This last summer was my first spent climbing some of the walls in the Dolomites. Nowhere is the issue of these motorcycles more apparent than up high where there should be no sound but the wind and jingling of climbing gear. Yet here, the roar of motorcycles is a nearly nonstop irritant. They are so loud it is often impossible to hear one’s partner. Numerous friends came for both climbing and cycling and all made the same comment, “This is disgusting”.

And the Dolomites are a UNESCO World Heritage Site? What a joke. It would be better named the UNESCO International Motor Speedway.

The Dolomites UNESCO Status

This from the UNESCO Page regarding the criterion of managing the Dolomites in accordance with UNESCO Requirements:

“The property requires protection from tourism pressures and related infrastructure. Each of the component parts of the serial property requires its own individual management plan, providing not only for the protection and management of land use, but also the regulation and management of human activities to maintain its values, and in particular to preserve the qualities of its natural landscapes and processes, including extensive areas which still have wilderness character. Areas that are subject to more intensive visitation need to be managed to ensure visitor numbers and activities are within the capacity of the property in relation to the protection of both its values and the experience of visitors to the property. Adequate resources and staffing, and coordination between the staff teams in the different components of the property are also essential.”

Seemingly nothing is adhered to. Protection from infrastructure? They just keep building; pistes, lifts, hotels, access roads, you name it. Maintain the values of human activities? Apparently loud motor sports are a historical activity and value. Or maybe they just see, “Maintain value”, as in €€€. Preserve the qualities of natural environment? In many places of the Dolomites it sounds like you are at the Indy speedway. And it seems the only staffing is by politicians looking to satisfy businesses within the region who everyone knows pockets most of their earnings to avoid exorbitantly high Italian tax rates.

Meanwhile, the Italian police, in their typical show of dramatic yet completely inefficient force, have set up speed traps on busy summer days. The joke is, according to Italian law they must post signs warning oncoming traffic of the impending radar check that lay just ahead. The motorcycles slow to legal speeds, pass by, then resume their ear splitting roar after the next curve in the road. …”Ha ha carabinieri. Fools.”

Or, as is well known, motorcyclists come in groups and send one rider ahead to check for police or anything that may be in the way of his friends – once all clear, he calls back and gives the go ahead for his 18 buddies to charge full bore up or down a pass. Never mind the cyclists silently pedaling along who have to listen to or be nearly taken out by the mirrors on these super bikes. The father of a close friend was killed by a motorcycle while riding his bike up a Dolomites Pass in just such a scenario.

While riding here, I have seen several serious crashes and countless near misses when they lose control in turns, or veer right into my line, when they can’t control the power of the bike they have rented.

What Can be Done?

I have heard from local businesses that there is a fear that with increased motorcycle regulations will come a decrease in revenue. But wait, motorcyclists can’t drink beer during the day. And, it is commonly known that many do not stay in hotels within the Dolomites but opt to stay outside where it is cheaper, the same place where they eat dinner so they aren’t driving at night. I asked several friends who have affordable hotels right in the Dolomites if they ever have motorcylists as guests. The answer, “Almost never”. Why can’t these businesses turn their attention to other summer tourists who also come in great numbers; hikers, cyclists, and climbers.

There are grumblings from within the region, namely from Michil Costa, a local hotel owner and well known activist who strives to keep a handle on tourism gone wild. But it would seem that like so many things, the almighty Euro speaks loudest. As tourists grow tired of the Dolomites experience, or word does get out of the problem, perhaps would be visitors will go elsewhere. All the many tourism websites and magazine articles glorifying the Italian Dolomites are not telling the whole truth. Like my friends all said, “It is disgusting”.

The only thing that may change this is if other tourists begin making it clear that these motorcycles are not tolerable. The web, forums and social media are great ways to start. Italy was one of the first countries in the EU to do something about second hand cigarette smoke in restaurants – how different is this? A solution is to remove some of the freedom these motorcycles are abusing. Have some real speed traps with huge fines, have real noise ordinances that are enforced, and multiple offenders lose the right to drive a motorbike. I do not see this problem on Swiss passes where there are regulations and consequences for breaking them. There I see motorcycles, not in the same numbers, but I see them riding slower and not making nearly the same noise.

The Impact on Dolomite Cyclists, Hikers and Climbers

Visiting mountain lovers be warned. It can be horribly obnoxious and occasionally dangerous here, so much so that I mostly refuse to ride my bike on any of the best passes from about July 1 through early September. Also, educate yourself about the German and Austrian holidays in May and June, for these periods have the Dolomites a virtual racetrack for big, fast bikes.

The Sellaronda Bike (Bicycle) Day

A move in the right direction regarding awareness comes in the form of the now twice annual Sellaronda Bike Day. This event, held early in the summer and again in mid September, draws 16,000 cyclists to enjoy the famous Sellaronda Loop, on closed roads. In addition to the cyclists are an increase in the number of hikers and climbers who can now enjoy one of the most beautiful areas of the Dolomites in silence. The event has brought about awareness and acknowledgement that these tourists, ever hungry and thirsty, bring in enormous revenue while not impacting the environment.

Have you been to the Dolomites? What was your experience?

This is where I ask for your comments. Pressure needs to be put on the region from those that come and spend money. Voice your opinion. If you have been to the Dolomites and had experiences with the motorbikes, good or bad, please let us know. Leave a comment and we’ll make sure the messages and experiences are passed on to the Tourism Board.

(Note 12/19/11 : Thanks to so much great support, this post is getting a ton of traffic, BUT – having views means nothing if we are going to show it to the powers that can do something about this problem, PLEASE – Leave a comment)

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Over the summer I was training with an American cyclist friend visiting the Dolomites. He’s ten years younger, still competitive and hungry for results. At the time I was moderately fit on the bike, so together we rode hard in the mountains. He destroyed me. Back at my place one day I was recalling a story for him when I said, “I was listening to This American Life on my headphones while riding and…” . “Whoa, wait a second”, he stopped me. “You were listening to a podcast and not Slipknot while training?”. This little question made things very clear.

Unmistakable signs of age. They are showing up. I’m trying to convince myself that these subtle little changes are okay, let’s see what the natural aging process does. On the bike, one thing becoming very commonplace, is the Stop.

What is the Stop? It’s simple, it is saying yes to that nagging call of seeing a great spot while out riding, but actually stopping, getting out of the pedals and off the bike, and actually parking your padded, and possibly chamois creamed, rear on a bench/wall/rock/grass or cafe chair. There are few more enjoyable things to do in life. It is a pause while loving something to simply soak it all in, where you are, how you feel, and to really take in where your legs have gotten you.

I’ve known about the importance of the Stop for many years as I had an experience prove the value of taking this time for myself. I grew up bike racing in Sacramento, California. The beautiful American River Bike Trail was my commuting road, my training ground and even as a kid, my way to school. One particular bench became a standard stop. There I sat with friends and drank coffee while bike commuting to work. There I sat and ate a bar after a huge training day and River Ride. There I sat to soak in it all, being an athlete, being alive and out doing what I love.

In 1997, life took me to Alaska where I commercial fished for 6 months. It was a trying and difficult time. Sometimes 40 hours would go by without sleep and the resulting mental state would have me hallucinating to other places, other times. More than any other place I would drift off to was that bench. It was the natural place my mind would seek safety and comfort. Even so very faw away, I had to go to that bench.

Now, I seek out these Stops. Equally as important as the ride’s experience are the little additions I give it. Ultimately, these things are more important than my average heart rate or kilometers ridden. Today I stopped at a bench I know well and felt the warmth of an unusually warm December day dry my sweat after a 500 meter climb. I looked down on my valley, frozen in the shadows yet glowing in the sun, and I simply enjoyed being.

My road home

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The Sciora Hut sits directly beneath much of the climbing

When Americans think of climbing in Europe, one thing typically comes to mind; limestone. But for climbers visiting Europe who want a little something closer to what they know, and an experience of a lifetime, the Alps also have a massive amount of granite. Chamonix tends to steal the show for showcasing granite, but this summer we went snooping around to some other areas known for long, easy to moderate, granite climbs. Our favorites; Switzerland’s Göschenental and its Bergseeschijen and Salbit groups, which will come in a later DolomiteSport post. First up, the Graubunden Region, specifically the Sciora Group and Piz Badile area above the Val Bregaglia, Switzerland.

The North Ridge of the Piz Badile

This was the second time we had climbed in this region as in 2005 we climbed the famous Piz Badile. Since that visit, we had long wanted to return to see what else lay nearby, but also to return to the magic feeling that this historically rich region offers. Here, only 35km from glitzy St. Moritz is another world; one of silence, traditional ways, a unique dialect of Italian and architecture much the same as centuries past. Driving through Switzerland’s Val Bregaglia, far below the north facing walls of the Sciora group which serves as the Swiss Italian Border, one must decide which to marvel at more, the ancient, intact villages and lifestyle, or the towering granite spires.

The Sasc Fura Hut

Luckily, both get to be experienced. For to visit the Sciora Group means to start from the village of Bondo. Here, one enters the stone walls feeling very much an outsider. Once inside, a walking tour is recommended as a kind of time travel to another era. When you are ready to start the approach to the huts, drive through the village to a payment machine, here you pay to pass on dirt roads to the trailheads far above town.

From the parking area, there is one trail along the river, after a few minutes walking the trail splits, left to the Sciora Hut, right to the Sasc Fura. The Sasc Fura is the standard hut for the Piz Badile’s North Ridge, arguably the finest easy ridge route in all the Alps. For North Face routes, both the Sasc Fura and Sciora Hut are used, although huge amounts of rockfall traversing to the North Face from the Sciora has closed this approach.

Thomy Engl cragging beneath the Sciora Group

Piz Badile North Ridge

If you are doing the Piz Badile North Ridge, 5.6 , be sure to walk the approach from the hut to the route the day before to familiarize yourself with the path as it will be done in the pre-dawn darkness and is a bit of a footrace between climbing parties. You do not want to be stuck behind slow parties on this route. Here, Euro climbing etiquette must be understood. If you are not used to climbing in the Alps on busy routes, get ready for some interesting times. It can either be very aggravating or very entertaining, just don’t let it be too time consuming, you need to be safe and you need to get down. But this is a whole different topic…

The Piz Badile North Ridge, 5.6

The route lives up to its reputation, it is absolutely superb climbing on perfect stone in a stunning setting. We were first to the route the day we did it so had no delays. Our climbing time with some photostops was 4.5 hours. The rack included, draws, cams .5, #1 and #2, a few stoppers, several long slings and double 50M ropes. The route is bolted and if you are comfortable running it out at these grades, draws are enough. The anchors are all BIG rings. Most parties opt to descend south into Italy and figure out how to get back around to the Swiss side using buses or taxis. We chose to rappel the route, which turned out to be slightly slower than the climb, but thanks to great anchors was epic free. We were back at the hut in time for pre-dinner beers.

The Sciora Group

Bouldering out the door of the Sciora Hut

If you are in the area for an extended stay and more moderate routes, you may opt to head over to the Sciora Hut next. The day after climbing the Piz Badile, get up early and walk the two hours to the Sciora Hut. Once at the Sciora mid-morning, you can choose to either go cragging or do a shorter route on the Torre Innominata east of the hut. We walked the hour up to the Innominata, an imposing wall that becomes much friendlier at the base. Here are several classic lines from which to choose; both the Hofmeister Jubilaum (6b/5.10c) and Via di Mezzo (6a+/5.10a/b) are superb routes. The Hofmeister being steeper and more like a Yosemite line and the Via di Mezzo reminiscent of Tuolumne Meadows climbing. 10 quickdraws and a small rack is sufficient. The Hofmeister requires a bit more gear.

Thomy Engl on the Via di Mezzo (6a+), Innominata

Punta Pioda

Next up are some much bigger undertakings. At this point, we lost two days to heavy rain and snow and so did just one more big route, the Punta Pioda’s NW Ridge. This is a very long and uncomplicated 5.6 slab route up a seemingly endless rounded ridge. The climbing was good, the rock solid and the day worthy. We had intended to do the descent off the summit via the Pioda-Dafora Traverse back north to get in some more climbing, but with all the fresh snowfall the north facing gulleys were completely buried and iced up. Once again, we found ourselves with a lot of rappeling, 22 to be exact, the same as the number of pitches, a long day!

Thomy Engl on the Punta Pioda

For the Punta Pioda we took 10 draws, a few slings, a few nuts and double 50M ropes. The route is bolted although with some sizeable gaps. The climbing is mostly much easier than 5.6 with a few standout sections of harder climbing.

The other classic objectives from the Sciora Hut are, to name just a few:

Scioretta : Fuori Ridge (VII+/6c/5.11a) and Direct Variation (VI-/5c/5.8). Quite possibly the line you will look at and want to climb in the group. These are also long and involved routes, not to be taken lightly for length and time.

Ago di Sciora : The West Ridge (V+/5.7). Just a lower section of the main rib before the rock quality drops.

Pizzi Gemelli : Bügeleisen (V/5.7). A super popular classic slab climb up a flawless ridge.

The Punta Pioda (l) and Ago di Sciora (r)

These are but a few popular routes, there are may, many more from which to choose, including the Piz Badile North Face routes, some of the most classic in the Alps.

Val Bregaglia Graubunden Climbing Guidebooks

The Alpine Club Guidebook Series: Bernina and Bregaglia by Lindsey Griffin (English). The definitive guide to the entire region for English speakers and very helpful for deciding which routes to do.

Bergell by Jiri Novak (Czech and German). Helpful as well for deciding where and what to do.

We found the guidebooks in conjunction with online info were great for deciding where to go and getting a rough idea of what we wanted to do. The huts themselves have very detailed and current topos and route info for the entire area. This was the best source for actual detailed info. Show up to the huts ready for anything, decide what to do, then simply draw up your own topo based on what the hut provides for beta – it works perfect.

Hut Phone Numbers

Sasc Fura +41 (0)81 822 1252

Sciora Hut +41 (0)81 822 11 38

Hut reservations are mandatory for overnights, but call in advance, this is a popular area and the huts are small. Like most wardened European mountain huts, the price of entry provides a bed, dinner and breakfast. Snacks, day food, and drinks can also be purchased. Overnight with the two meals is about CHF60.

Summary

Our plan was to climb easy to moderate routes here and we did just that. The climbing itself is straightforward, and thanks to being well bolted, relatively easy route finding is possible. But, this is an alpine arena and the walls are big, therefore so is the potential for problems. While the hut sits below the alpine walls, there is a very real sense of being “out there”, yet once down from climbing, an hour walk returns you to friendly hut keepers, beer, great food, a fun social scene and comfortable beds.

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For about six years we made feeble attempts to get to Norway’s Lyngen Alps. A combination of not really understanding the logistics combined with our timing being off and/or the trip & lodging we wanted being full all added up to putting it off. Finally in March 2011 we made it and happily found it was worth the effort. It is a somewhat confusing area to research, but once there it all becomes clear. Hopefully this post will help make sense of it all prior to a visit.

As usual, our travel plans and itinerary are shaped by photoshoots, this was no exception. We were there to make some specific types of ice climbing photos. While we had always dreamt of the “Stay on a Boat” option, for this trip we needed to stay on land and with a car for mobility. Ice climbing and backcountry skiing were the focus. So, together with our friend, and pro climber, Kurt Astner, off we went.

Google “Lyngen Alps”, “Norway Skiing”, or any other combo of such and you are likely to get the Lyngen Lodge as your top hit. We did, and so we contacted them. It took forever to get a response, and when we finally did it was, “all full, all season”. We began to notice that there really are very few other lodging options with the exception of the Magic Mountain Lodge in Lyngseidet. An email went out, minutes later we had an answer, “available”. We booked and this turned out to be a blessing in disguise.

Lyngseidet from the Magic Mountain Lodge

Getting to the Lyngen Alps is easy; Fly to Norway (Oslo) and connect via another flight to Tromsø, rent a car, drive 2 hours and you are there. The driving part is easy, beautiful, and awe inspiring if it’s during the day. For us it was a white knuckle, pitch black drive through a howling blizzard. Tromsø, being a hip and interesting city is well worth a visit. If you arrive in the evening, consider an overnight stay.

We arrived to the Magic Mountain Lodge at about midnight and were very ready for our long travel day to end. Once there we walked into my dream world. For countless years I have dreamt of running a hotel in a great location that caters to mountain sport athletes – here it was. The couple (Patrik & Henrika) running the show were instantly welcoming, accommodating and new friends.

I asked Patrik for a beer, if possible something local. From behind the bar he pulled out three talls. “These are Macks, the world’s northernmost brewery”. He popped the tabs. “Also the most expensive”, he grinned. Gulp. We sipped, and then we gulped the beers. Superb, but yes damaging to the wallet.

As I always say about so many things, “It is all about the people”. This was never more true than with our stay at Magic Mountain Lodge.

Skiing in the Lyngen Alps

The blessing in disguise turned out to be the location. It always takes a visit to figure out how best to experience a mountain area, and one visit to the Lyngen Alps makes it clear that the best location to base yourself is indeed, the town of Lyngseidet. The fjords, while great, are mightily inconvenient for getting around as the roads take you in and out of every inlet. Of course there is the ferry, but it is time consuming as well, expensive and you must still drive. The primary area to ski in the Lyngen Alps, and the area you will look at and say, “Let’s go there” is directly accessed from the village of Lyngseidet. The Lyngen Lodge is located on the opposite side of the fjord, in much smaller mountains and requires traveling by boat over to the main area for skiing. One reason to stay on the opposite side is simple – the view is superb. But if you want to get up in the morning and go skiing with as little commute as possible, stay in Lyngseidet.

Where snow meets the sea

Another option is to stay on one of the many charter boats. These are large, comfy, liveable boats (small ships in some cases) that travel the fjords and dock or anchor close to the next days ski objective. We saw them everywhere, one day dropping off all 30 skiers on a beach and then heading up on skis behind us. We spoke to the guests and they reported a great time, although the rocking boat made some less than comfortable. Some operations offer much smaller groups for friends with guides. Or, join in on one the big boats and make new friends. Certainly a cool option.

Skiing to the beach from high in the Lyngen Alps

What to expect of the Skiing

Our trip was mid March and we found it to be superb. Two different thoughts seem to exist on when to go. The dead of winter for powder skiing, amazing light, and the likelihood of seeing the Aurora Borealis. Then there is the spring for longer days and still generally great skiing. We found the skiing to be as unique as the overall experience. As the approaches begin at the beach, the first few hundred meters up was often in slop that would put “Sierra cement” to shame. Then suddenly, like a line drawn, it would all change to powder. When it changed to a crust, we were still able to find powder skiing on the right aspect. Depending on where you go, you will start on the beach, skin through a brief forest, pop into alpine terrain and perhaps travel on glaciers on your way to a couloir, summit or high plateau. Your descents often put you right back on the beach – where else do you get to ski to the beach?

Hiring a Mountain Guide

Given that I said skiing in the Lyngen Alps will all make sense once you get there, it will not be a guarantee that you will go to the right places for the best skiing or be tuned into the avalanche conditions. We saw pretty quickly that the avalanche risk can be high in these parts, and that like all mountain areas, the Lyngen Alps have their own set of rules. Our friend Kurt is a UIAGM Guide, and together we discussed and researched each day’s plan. We found good snow and stayed out of trouble. But, we saw the opposite for some visitors. If you are interested in getting a guide, check in with the crew at the Magic Mountain Lodge as we did meet some local UIAGM Guides who would stop in for an evening beer.

Lyngen Alps Ice Climbing 

One of the reasons we were in Norway was to shoot ice climbing with Kurt Astner. Kurt is one of the best ice climbers in the world and a former Italian National Champion. His intention was to seek out new lines and new ice falls that he had heard about through friends. He did just that. If climbing some ice while on a ski trip is your thing, it is certainly possible in this area. I won’t pretend to offer advice, only to say there is a lot of nice, primarily on the east side of the fjords from the Lyngen Alps and easily accessed by car from the ferry at Olderdalen.

Interested to see the images we made, and a video of how we made them? Visit : PatitucciPhoto Norway Ice Climbing.

Kurt Astner on a new line outside Olderdalen, Norway

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