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How To Make Sopressata (Part 2)

2012-02-16T08:20:00.000-05:00

READ "How To Make Sopressata (Part 1)

And now we begin the process:

John soaks the casing for thirty seconds.

The wet casing is then placed over the stuffing tube,

gripping it firmly while stepping on the pedal to begin the stuffing process.

As the stuffing comes out, the sausage is held firmly so as to avoid any loose areas or air pockets.

The stuffing is halted when the sausage reaches a length of about two feet.

Frank Piazza throws the extra meat at the end of the sausage into a bin

in order to secure the end with a tie.

A student assists in tying the end, affixing a label tag in the process.

A link is created in the middle of the log using a plastic tie.

Holes are punched into the sausage with a punching tool.

Holes are created all over the sausage to ensure adequate drying during the aging process.

(See enlarged picture by clicking on the image.)

A student helps hang the sausage to begin the dry curing process.

They are arranged in rows alongside oak barrels used for wine.

The sopressata are cured for a period of 3-4 weeks, or until 30% of its weight has evaporated.

After that period, they may either be consumed or stored in vacuum-sealed bags for later consumption.

We had some after the class before a lunch of whole roasted pig.

On the left are the hot sausages, and on the right the garlic sausages,

sliced thinly as curing has created a very tough consistency.

Read here for How To Make Sopressata (Part 1)

Read here for the Piazza Brothers Wine Room

Read here for the Whole Roasted Pig (coming soon)

How To Make Sopressata (Part 1)

2012-02-15T20:52:00.000-05:00

You learn something new everyday. I don't think I've had a day where I didn't learn at least one thing. I've also lost count of many days where I learned something I never imagined I would, and that makes me feel very lucky.

One of these days was a recent Saturday when I was fortunate enough to be invited to a friend's company-sponsored Sopressata Making Class at the Piazza Brothers Wine Room in Staten Island, a place I wrote about here.

Sopressata (or supersata, soppressata, also sobrassada in Spain), is an Italian dry cured salami traditionally made of pork rejects and considered in the old days as "poor man's sausage." When families slaughtered their pigs in the fall, the unwanted parts of the carcass such as the head and leftover meats were seasoned and cured as sausages to last through the winter.

As for its etymology, sopressata is from the Italian "pressare" meaning "to press," referring to the old method pressing the liquid out of the sausage between two planks of wood weighted by a heavy object on top.

The sopressata we made that day was not from meat rejects but just regular coarsely ground pork shoulder. They came in tubs of two flavors, hot garlic and hot, and was seasoned using the powders below.

John Piazza, one of the Piazza brothers, introduced the process of making sausage to our group along side his brothers Freddie and Frank, who walked us through the process step by step.

Freddie (left) and John (right) beside the sausage maker machine before the process started.

The Sausage Maker

Sausage-making materials. Wire cutters for the ties, label tags, sausage casing.

Ready and eager hands.

John packs the meat into the sausage machine.

He gets a little help from Frank.

READ - How to Make Sopressata (Part 2)

Piazza Brothers Wine Room & Sopressata Making

2012-02-15T07:58:00.002-05:00

It was snowing but not sticking on the morning that we arrived at the Piazza Brothers Wine Room in Staten Island. I was fortunate to get a spot in a company-sponsored Sopressata Making Class and decided to cover the event using my camera.

The wine room itself is hidden on a secluded road deviously beside an adult video store you may or may not ignore, but do not underestimate its humble facade because behind the door awaits the fun task of making wine or sausage, depending on what you're there for.

I was there for the sausage class, heavily documented in posts to follow tomorrow. But I didn't pass the chance of looking around and getting to know the brothers John, Freddie and Frank, who taught us about wine and sausage, and even carved a whole roasted pig for us at the end.

Sausages hung to dry alongside oak barrels.

Each winery needs its own artsy photo of oak barrels.

The winery's grape/wine selection

Yes indeed.

I liked this barrel's design.

Freddie on the left and John on the right teach us how to make sausage.

Chef Frank teaching us how to taste wine using a special technique that

uses the different taste areas of the tongue.

A whole roasted pig for lunch.

Frank expertly cuts through the pig.

After lunch, limoncello shots to cap the event.

Come back tomorrow to read about and view the great photos of the Sopressata Making Class!

Piazza Brothers Wine Room

690 Gulf Avenue

Staten Island NY 10314

Contact John @ 718 982 9463

Filipino Cuisine 101: Lumpia, Munggo, Adobo, Talong, Ube

2012-02-14T12:10:00.000-05:00

"What should we feed them?" I asked about our next door neighbors we invited over for dinner. It was our first time having them over, and if we've never fed someone before, we try to gauge the kind of people we are about to feed. Do they seem picky? Are they are adventurous enough to not wrinkle their nose at the mention of fish sauce? We had an idea but were uncertain. So as a precaution, I asked about any dietary restrictions.

"None. Chef's choice. Thanks for asking!" was the reply. That was music to our ears, so we decided on what it was going to be: Filipino Cuisine 101.

What happened to the dinner? Our neighbors confessed that they've secretly enjoyed the cooking aromas coming from our door every night. They ate heartily, and those are the kinds of eaters I love to feed. Now we can move past 101 and maybe on over to 102 or another foreign cuisine.

For now we'll present the basics. The captions link to each dish's recipe. Enjoy!

Lumpiang Toge (Fried Bean Sprout Spring Roll)

Recipe and photos here.

Ginisang Munggo (Mung Bean Soup)

Recipe and photos here.

Crispy Pork Belly Adobo.

Recipe and photos here.

"Inihaw" Na Talong (Grilled Eggplant).

Recipe and photos here.

Main Course: Adobo and Eggplant

Baked Ube (Purple Yam) and Vanilla Ice Cream.

Recipe and photos here.

Grilled Eggplant ("Inihaw" na Talong)

2012-02-14T11:56:00.002-05:00

"I never know what to do with eggplant," said my Food Coop squad mate. "What?" I said, baffled. "You can do everything with it!"

To me, an eggplant is as versatile as a potato, and I would guess it's even more nutritious. As a young picky eater, eggplants were the only vegetable I would eat, and I liked them fried and dipped in soy sauce and lime. Because of their size, Asian eggplants are much easier to cook whole without slicing and having the pieces dry up during grilling. Grilling Asian eggplants on a stove top gives them a delicious burnt flavor and is my preferred way of cooking them, but in a pinch baked eggplants almost always suffice.

They are tasty enough on their own and are even better with condiments. Baked Asian eggplants wrapped in foil make a great side dish, and may also be peeled and chopped to make a nice salad.

How to Bake Asian Eggplants

Wash eggplants and wrap in foil.

Bake for 40 minutes at 375C, testing with a fork if done.

Here it is served with a sauce of shrimp paste, vinegar and onions.

A great side to a meat dish such as Crunchy Pork Belly Adobo.

Mung Bean Soup (Ginisang Munggo)

2012-02-14T08:59:00.000-05:00

I grew up dipping the adobo in my spoon in munggo, a soupy stew made with green mung beans, sauteed tomatoes, onions, and horseradish leaves (malunggay). It just seemed to go side by side with the ubiquitous adobo and complimented the saltiness with the flavor of beans and tomatoes. In the US, malunggay can be found in the frozen section of good Filipino and Asian grocery stores, but we make do with a handful of frozen chopped spinach added towards the end of cooking.

The typical preparation of munggo is a little thicker than how we make it, but we prefer a more watery soup we can slurp alongside our meal or pour over our rice. The dominant flavors include onions, tomatoes and fish sauce.

Soaking mung beans overnight in water lets it cook quicker and create a unique texture when done.

In a pot with water, boil the mung beans on medium heat until soft, about twenty minutes.

In a separate pan, saute onions, tomatoes, and fish sauce.

When tomatoes are soft, add to the pot with mung beans.

Add bouillon and simmer for another fifteen minutes.

Add malunggay or chopped spinach before serving. Season with fish sauce to taste.

Serve alongside rice and adobo for your Filipino Cuisine 101.

Ginisang Munggo (Mung Bean Soup)

1/2 cup mung beans

1 ripe tomato, chopped coarsely

1/2 onion, choppped

1/2 small package, frozen chopped spinach

1/2 beef or vegetable bouillon

1 tablespoon fish sauce, more to taste

Soak beans overnight. Simmer until soft for about twenty minutes. In a separate pan, saute onion and tomatoes until soft and add to the pot. Add bouillon and simmer for another fifteen minutes. Add malunggay or chopped spinach before serving. Season with fish sauce to taste.

How To Wrap Lumpia (Bean Sprout Spring Roll)

2012-02-13T22:12:00.000-05:00

Lumpiang Toge (Bean Sprout Spring Roll) is one of the comfort foods I grew up with. Street vendors served them out of baskets of fried food along with a bottle of spiced vinegar you can use to douse the lumpia to your heart's content.

We're not fans of deep-frying mostly because of the mess it makes, but for health reasons as well. We make an exception for lumpia, but mostly just when we serve it to guests who are always pleased by the crunch of the wrapper, the bite of the vinegar sauce, and the texture of the vegetables inside.

Filipino restaurants fry their lumpia perfectly with a deep-fryer, but I find the filling starchy, having more potatoes than I would like. This recipe has no potatoes, just fresh bean sprouts, carrots and snap peas, sauteed quickly, drained and cooled then wrapped before frying in hot oil.

Sauteed vegetables being drained using a strainer.

How To Wrap Spring Rolls

Place about two tablespoons of filling on the wrapper.

Fold one corner in the direction of the other, forming a triangle.

Fold the left and right corners inward, covering the filling.

Roll forward.

Roll to the end, sealing the edge by dabbing with cold water, if necessary.

Here they are ready to fry. It's best to wrap them right before frying because when the wrapper gets soaked with liquid, it's more likely to break.

Fry in hot oil.

Cook until brown.

Let the oil drain, setting on paper towels if necessary.

My favorite dipping sauce is this spiced vinegar.

Lumpia served with a mix of spiced vinegar, soy sauce, and crushed garlic.

Lumpiang Toge (Bean Sprout Spring Roll)

1 pound fresh bean sprouts, about 6 cups

1/2 white onion, chopped

1/2 pound snap peas, julienned

1 large carrot, julienned or coarsely shredded

1 teaspoon fish sauce

1 package spring roll wrapper

Defrost the spring roll wrapper thirty minutes before wrapping the spring rolls. Saute onions until soft. Mix in bean sprouts, carrots, and snap peas and stir fry until partially cooked, about 5-10 minutes. Season with fish sauce and drain before frying. Filling can be prepared earlier and drained overnight to ensure a dry filing that won't break the wrapper. Wrap each roll using two tablespoons of filling. Fry for 3-5 minutes until brown, drain and set on paper towels. Serve immediately with sauce.

Sauce:

1 clove garlic, crushed

3 tablespoons vinegar, spiced or apple cider

1 tablespoons soy sauce

The Purple Yam Secret

2012-02-13T09:46:00.001-05:00

We called them camote and they were buried in our backyard at the foot of the banana trees. My nanny would take the itak (bolo) and stab the dirt where the dark green tops had sprouted, pulling on them until the yams were yanked out of the ground.

After a virtuous washing, the yams were boiled in a pot until tender and served for breakfast with a square of butter. The butter would melt and seep into its dark purple crevices, coating its sweet and soft meat with even more love. We would gobble it up warm, wiping the butter from our chins, licking our lips and then singing:

Camote, the musical fruit!

The more you eat, the more you toot!

Ube, or purple yam, was as ubiquitous in the Philippines as weeds in any yard. I remember in a college house I rented they found that the yard had been infiltrated by the tuber crop, forcing the landlord to dig them up and chuck them en masse.

But in New York it wasn't until the last five years that I've seen them in Chinatown vegetable stands, apparently imported from Hawaii where I imagine the climate provides as prolific a life. And now urban farmers' markets have caught on, and the exotic sweet potato is about to reach infamy in gourmet restaurants. Wait till they hear what Filipinos have made of this purple offender!

How about steamed, baked, boiled, fried, grilled, candied, and made into a jam? Let's not forget the ube ice cream that tops our favorite dessert halo-halo, a mix of sweetened beans and fruit packed with sugar, ice, milk and flan and you guessed it: even more ube but as a jam.

But we're getting ahead of ourselves. Below is how to simply bake purple yam for a healthy and tasty snack or dessert. Enjoy!

Wrap yams individually in foil and bake at 375C for one hour. That's it!

They come out steaming like in this picture. You can serve it on its own, with butter, or with an added twist:

...vanilla ice cream. Heaven in a bowl. Enjoy!

Crispy Pork Belly Adobo

2012-02-12T10:48:00.002-05:00

Before I moved to New York ten years ago, I always thought that Filipino cuisine was obscure and unknown, even if Filipinos were everywhere and have never been shy in replicating their home-cooked meals wherever they ended up in the world.

I am glad that the "authorities" have recognized the basic meat dish called adobo as something short of a little-known miracle in stew preparation, as I've discussed here. Of course I'm not satisfied with just enumerating the four ways I make adobo, I need to go into detail about at least one of them, perhaps the most tedious of all to prepare but is oh-so very worth the effort.

Crispy Pork Belly Adobo not only creates tender pieces of pork stewed in the mixture of soy sauce, vinegar and garlic, it is broiled in an oven for a few minutes for the skin to bubble and create that unmistakable crunch provided only by a dry and scorched pork skin, similar to another popular Filipino dish crispy pata but using belly instead of hock, but with the distinct flavor of adobo, bay leaves and garlic.

Here it is served with grilled eggplant and rice.

We begin with a few pieces of pork belly skin-side up in a pot, one part each of soy sauce, vinegar and water, plus a head of crushed garlic, bay leaves and peppercorns.

It's always important to note that this dish works best with Filipino soy sauce, a dark blend of rich soy, as opposed to thinner and lighter sauces like Kikkoman and some other Chinese versions. Filipino soy sauce is available in most Asian markets.

The belly is simmered on low heat for about 90 minutes, covered.

This is how it is after thirty minutes.

Turn the pieces on one side for the next thirty minutes.

And on the other side for another thirty. Make sure to keep the heat to a low simmer and watch the meat for tenderness or else it will fall apart.

After the meat is tender, put the skin side up and keep the lid off to let the skin dry.

For best results, turn it off and leave it uncovered overnight or for a few hours so the skin dries and is easy to make crispy in the broiler.

Remove meat pieces from the pot and arrange skin side up in a baking dish.

Bake for 15 minutes at 375C to warm up the meat. Transfer to top rack and broil on low for five minutes, watching closely that the skin does not burn but just bubble into a crispy texture.

Remove dish promptly and serve with warm adobo sauce on the side.

Adobo goes well with rice and vegetable dishes such as grilled eggplant, steamed bokchoy, choy sum, and other greens. We like serving it with mung bean soup for our Filipino Cuisine 101 menu. Recipes to come. Enjoy!

Crispy Pork Belly Adobo

Ingredients:

3-4 pounds pork belly, cut into 2-3 inch square pieces
1 parts white, apple cider or cane vinegar

1 part water
1 part soy sauce (Silver Swan, or any other Filipino brand works, do NOT use Kikkoman or Japanese soy sauce)
5 bay leaves
1 head garlic, crushed and peeled
1 tsp black peppercorns

Simmer all ingredients in a covered pot with the belly meat side down for about 90 minutes, turning on each side until tender. Allow skin to dry by leaving the pot uncovered before arranging in a baking dish with the skin side up. Bake for fifteen minutes at 375C, then broil on low for 5 minutes, watching closely for burning. You only want the skin to harden and bubble to get that distinct crunch. Serve with a vegetable side and rice. Mangia!

Pet Photography: Random

2012-02-12T00:24:00.000-05:00

This is Oscar, a country dog who has to deal with the stresses of New York City.

Doesn't stop him from looking good.

This is Portia, whose looks may be deceiving.

She is a devious cat who was an inch away from stabbing her Pitbull cousin with a kitchen knife.

True story!

This is Toblerone, a princess from Los Angeles.

This is Jasper, Greta's littermate. They don't look similar at all.

Kimchi Restaurant's "Korean Beef"

2012-02-10T08:11:00.000-05:00

One of the treats I had growing up in Manila in the late 80s was to visit a restaurant called Kimchi, a Korean restaurant similar to the California fast food chain Yoshinoya. They had two main specialties: BBQ Chicken and "Korean Beef," a stew of the most tender short ribs swimming in the rich thin sauce that was dark, sweet, and slightly hot, topped with chopped scallions and sesame seeds.

It was my favorite but was twice as expensive as the barbecued chicken I often settled for. The chicken was good in its own right but did not provide the same kind of close-your-eyes flavor explosion as the sesame short rib stew. The Korean Beef's sauce was good enough to fight for and drizzle on unlimited bowls of rice. It was so delicious and multi-faceted that never in my wildest dreams did I think it could ever be replicated in any home kitchen, much less in mine.

Fast forward to a couple of decades and a whole continent later, I made my first attempt based on an old recipe I found online, and after years of trial-and-error revisions, now I get to share my version with you! Enjoy!

We begin by placing the short ribs meat-side down in a good pot.

Add all the other ingredients: one whole sliced onion, one head peeled garlic, one chili pepper, bay leaves, and peppercorns.

Add the sugar. Don't be shy.

Add equal parts soy sauce and water. Simmer on low heat covered for about 2 hours.

After thirty minutes.

After one hour.

And done. The meat is falling off the bone and has achieved an almost gelatinous texture.

Roast some sesame seeds in a pan until brown. This releases the flavor of the seeds and gives it a nice roasted flavor when you bite on them. Try it!

The secret of this stew is the slow cooking time. Keeping it in a low simmer allows the meat to soften without falling apart or burning, meshing with the flavors of the sauce. Here it is served with a topping of roasted sesame seeds and chopped scallions.

Serve with rice. This sauce, I swear to God, is worth fighting for.
I use the leftover sauce and pieces of meat in a noodle dish I like. Enjoy!

Kimchi Restaurant's "Korean Beef" Stew

1-2 lbs beef short ribs, cut crosswise (not flanken)
1 part dark soy sauce (Filipino brand preferred, Chinese variety is okay. Do not use Kikkoman!)
1 part water
1 part white or brown sugar
1 head garlic, peeled
1 onion, cut in half
1 piece ginger, the size of two thumbs, quartered
4 bay leaves
1 large Korean or Jalapeno pepper cut in half
10 peppercorns
1 tablespoon sesame seeds, roasted in a pan until brown

In a good pot, combine all the ingredients except for the sesame seeds and the scallions. Simmer on low heat for two hours or until the meat is tender. Top with roasted sesame seeds and scallions and serve with rice.

You can add some vegetables on the side at the last minute.

Here I added broccolini, but choy sum and bokchoy would also work.

Here are the leftovers served over vermicelli and a side of sauteed bokchoy.

Recipe here.

Incidentally, upon searching for the original source of this recipe to credit, I stumbled across a distant cousin of mine who actually obsessed about the same dish too! Here is her version.

Favorite Things: Sweet Fire Pickles and Peppers

2012-02-09T21:35:00.001-05:00

I was on a Labor Day Weekend fishing trip in Delaware and was spending an afternoon in town looking for a present to bring home for my significant other. Not being a fan of anything touristy or souvenir-like, I had difficulty finding anything at the Boardwalk, which was packed with stores selling the usual variety of t-shirts, hoodies, flipflops and fridge magnets. I gave up after a few minutes.

On a chance stop for gas, I gazed upon a gourmet shop and decided to try my luck. I found this jar of pickles and peppers I was sure would be just your run-of-the-mill jar of salty green things, plain and forgettable. Upon opening the jar at home however, we were greeted with the most wonderful combination of sweet and heat I haven't encountered in any other bottle of pickles or peppers to date.

The juice was good enough to drink, which I did until I was stopped by the gift's recipient. Was she trying to save me or to save some for herself? I'll never know. But these pickles and peppers have been such a crowd-pleaser that anyone we've served them to has fallen ravenously in love with them and insists on ordering their own batch. I ordered a dozen bottles and split it amongst friends. Sweet Fire Bread & Butter Pickles and Peppers are available for purchase here.

The pickles and peppers come in a regular mason jar and might look ordinary, but don't be fooled. It's a taste experience like no other. It is great with sandwiches, as an appetizer with cocktails, or served alongside meatloaf and other hearty dishes.

As for the contents, they lack the crunch of regular jarred pickles but that's because the heat and flavor have seeped all the way through each piece. Incidentally, these are awesome threaded through a long toothpick in Bloody Marys along with some olives. This is a fantastic product from Delaware. No wonder it's a National Champion!

Sweet Fire Pickles and Peppers with DopamineJunkie's Quinoa Meatloaf.
Photo by Kanako Shimura.

Chicken with Nasi Goreng Paste

2012-02-09T08:01:00.000-05:00

My cooking is greatly influenced by Filipino cuisine, in which meats are stewed for hours and vegetables are frequently overcooked to a soft mush. A lot of it is done the previous night and reheated, finished or broiled the following day, a practice that requires a lot of planning and makes spontaneous meal options impossible, and cooking small batches a waste of my time.

For quick meals we have relied on the quickness of fish and salads, tacos and wraps, protein sources that need only a little cooking and some assembly for a tasty meal.

Chicken with Nasi Goreng Paste, Sauteed bokchoy on the side.

So I'm very happy to be recently leaning towards a happy medium in my cooking, one that is not too slow or too fast (i.e., often cold), which focuses on simple flavors and limited ingredients, with a preparation time of thirty minutes or so.

I wanted to make something similar to my simple chicken curry, but didn't want to bend over backwards buying ingredients I didn't already have. Then I remembered that I had a jar of Nasi Goreng Paste lying around. It is a mix of peppers, tomatoes and spices used to flavor fried rice in Indonesian cooking. I've had it for a while but never found the time to learn how to make Nasi Goreng. So I decided to experiment and see how the paste would fare as a flavor base for another quick chicken stew.

I began by smothering four chicken pieces in two tablespoons of nasi goreng paste.

I seared them on both sides in a hot pan.

Then I added a whole sliced onion.

Poured in a quarter cup of water, juice from one lemon, and and simmered it covered for 30 minutes.

The sauce becomes rich and thick as the chicken cooks.

I mixed in a handful of cilantro leaves.

And served it with some sautéed bokchoy.

I enjoyed the heat and boldness of this dish, which complemented the crunch and simplicity of the bokchoy. The trick to cooking meats without marinating often lies in serving it with a flavorful sauce. The chicken turned out soft, moist and flavorful. The onions were a good texture companion to the dish.

Chicken with Nasi Goreng Paste

4 chicken pieces

2 tablespoons Nasi Goreng paste (available at Asian food stores)

juice of one lemon

1 whole onion, sliced into rings

1 handful washed cilantro leaves

Smother chicken in paste then sear in a hot pan with oil. Add onions, 1/4 cup water and lemon juice and cover, simmering for 30 minutes on low heat. Add cilantro leaves and mix well. Serve with a vegetable side and rice.

Fried Shishito Peppers

2012-02-08T13:57:00.000-05:00

It was in Barcelona that I first had fried peppers. The smoky bar called Bar Rodrigo served them sizzling on a plate, and we chewed on their crunchy salty bodies chased with gulps of wine. I fell in love.

I've always enjoyed fried peppers in tapas bars because they are sweet and have the right kind of heat along with crisp skins and the bite of rock salt. Pimentos de Padrons are commonly used in Spanish cuisine, but in Asian restaurants (and recently in modern bars), shishito peppers are the pepper of choice. They aren't normally available in supermarkets yet but Farmer's Markets seem to be picking them up. In New York, Union Square Market reportedly carries them, as do Asian supermarkets like Han Ah Rheum and Sunrise Mart.

Fried shishito peppers, better made by a Japanese friend in Woodside.

I picked up some shishito peppers (in the middle) from Sunrise Mart in the East Village.

We fried them in a hot pan with some olive oil and tossed in some rock salt.

Voila! Simple, sweet, spicy, salty and full of surprises. This is great as an appetizer with wine and cocktails. Watch out for the hot ones! This one is definitely not for the faint of heart.

Favorite Things: Sottocenere al Tartufo

2012-02-07T21:48:00.000-05:00

One of the perks of Park Slope Food Coop membership is access to their ridiculous cheese selection. Already reasonably priced, the small portion sizes allow one to sample cheeses not encountered often, such as the one below.

Sottocenere al Tartufo is a Venetian cheese we first tried at a friend's house, one that caused us to close our eyes the moment it touched our lips. The cheese itself is mild and soft, but deeply laced with the flavor of black truffles.

The infamous cheese selection at the Food Coop - over 100 varieties at wholesale prices.

"Sottocenere" means "under ash" for the ash rind used to coat the cheese during its aging process to preserve its quality and flavor. It worked, because as mild as the cheese is, its truffle ("al tartufo" means "with truffles") specks' flavor seems to have seeped deep into the cheese, surprising because there aren't many truffle specks that are actually visible.

The Sottocenere at the Food Coop at half the market price!

Sottocenere is made from cow's milk and is categorized under the semi-soft category, its mildness due to the short aging time (3- 4 months). Because of its delicate flavor, this cheese is best served with simple accompaniments such as the plain water crackers above, a baguette, or on its own. It's available in many other competitive markets such as Whole Foods and Union Market, and while pricey at these stores, will definitely not disappoint. Don't take my word for it, take a whiff at the store.You'll be swimming in the hypnotizing aroma of truffles that only says one thing: buy.

How about you? What is your favorite truffle presentation? Any obscure cheeses you recommend?

Chili With Batangas Tablea Chocolate

2012-02-07T08:00:00.000-05:00

For Superbowl Sunday, our tradition is to invite a few friends over for some homemade chili made with unsweetened chocolate tablets from the Philippines.

My mother often sends us packs of Batangas Tablea de Cacao to use for hot chocolate (tsokolate eh) or chocolate rice porridge (champorado). We often have a surplus of tablets so we use them to make our chili dark and rich. The chocolate adds a deep extra layer to the strong flavors of chili powder and tomatoes, as in some Mexican molé sauces.

Other than the chocolate, this chili cannot be far from traditional, calling out for the bold flavors of chili, paprika and cumin, as well as the meaty taste of ground beef.

We begin by sautéing our usual suspects, garlic and onion.

The spices are our friends, and we use them like there's no tomorrow.

Mix in the spices, creating a deep, rich color and aroma.

Add the ground beef and saute until brown.

Browned ground beef is separated and tender.

Whole peeled tomatoes are manually crushed.

Pour in the tomatoes.

Simmer the stew.

Grate the chocolate tablets into the stew.

Add the red beans.

Stir well.

Add the black beans.

Stir well.

Simmer for 2-3 hours on low heat.

Serve with cilantro leaves, cheese, onions and yogurt (in place of sour cream).

For Superbowl Sunday, we made a side of coleslaw.

We also served a tray of cornbread.

The evening's offerings. Go Giants!

Chili with Batangas Tablea Chocolate

1 whole red onion, chopped
1 head garlic, chopped
3 large cans whole canned tomatoes
2 cans red kidney beans, washed
1 can black beans, washed
1 beef boullion
2 pounds ground beef
1/3 cup chili powder
2 tablespoons ground cumin
1 tablespoon paprika
2-3 tablets Batangas tablea, available in good Asian/Filipino markets
(if not available, substitute 3 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder. Do not use Spanish tablea with cinnamon!)
Chopped onions, cilantro leaves, and 0% plain Greek yogurt for topping.

In a large pot, saute garlic and onions. Brown the ground beef and add the spices. Crush the whole canned tomatoes with your hands and add to the mixture. Stir and add tomato paste, tablea or cocoa, and bouilllon. Let simmer covered on low heat for 2-3 hours, stirring occasionally. Adjust seasoning to taste.

Serve hot topped with cilantro, onions and Greek yogurt (in place of sour cream).

Favorite Things: Bukkake Okazu Rayu

2012-02-06T15:18:00.000-05:00

Bukkake okazu rayu is Japanese chili garlic oil, a tasty mix of chilis and very crispy fried garlic. Oddly enough, the regular variety doesn't have any heat at all despite its fiery red presentation. It's similar in appearance to the Chinese version (in that category, I favor Lee Kum Kee's chili oil) but is very tasty even in small amounts that it's best eaten with bland food such as rice, steamed vegetables, and plain wontons.

I love chili garlic oil, especially this one that our friends graciously shared with us from Tokyo. I recently discovered that it's actually available at Sunrise Mart, and possibly other Japanese or Asian stores.

Here it is among other sauces in a Japanese specialty store in the East Village, New York. This is a great addition to your pantry if it's available to you. Left to my own devices, I could drink this bottle straight up!

All text and photos by DopamineJunkie.org unless otherwise indicated. ©2012 DopamineJunkie.org

Sunrise Mart, East Village

2012-02-06T12:23:00.000-05:00

Hidden on the second floor of the infamous St. Marks Bookshop in the East Village is Sunrise Mart, a New York institution that offers Japanese and Asian fare only a time-test specialized store would have. It boasts a produce, meat and seafood section as well as condiments, teas, snacks, and almost everything else one would need to make a basic Japanese meal.

The vegetable section is limited but sufficient, with staples like daikon, choy sum, and watercress.

I am particularly fond of the cute mushroom selection which includes bunapi and maitake mushrooms as well as the usual shiitake.

The seafood section is impressive with octopus, squid and cuttlefish.

The fish section has individually packed salmon, sardines, and eel. They are packaged in small portions for the convenience of single or small family eaters.

The meat department offers a sufficient selection of thinly sliced meats for sukiyaki and okonomiyaki.

In the back is a cute china section with ramen bowls and dishes.

And a great selection of Japanese tea kettles and cups.

An added bonus is the availability of my favorite chili garlic oil bukkake okazu rayu.

What else would you need? For a good Japanese-themed meal, I believe not much more.

My stash for the day was modest: shishito peppers for frying, Korean peppers for my sesame beef stew, and some favorite rice crackers.

Oh and a photo of this happy character who gives new (or old) meaning to the word boner.

Everything at Sunrise Mart makes me say "Oishi!"

Sunrise Mart

29 3rd Ave
(between 10th St & 2nd Ave)
New York, NY 10003

Peter Luger's Steakhouse

2012-02-04T23:53:00.002-05:00

Voted best steakhouse in New York for decades, this is where we go for breathtaking porterhouse, creamed spinach and chocolate mousse cake served with homemade schlag. A former boss once asked if they had Swiss cheese for their burgers (voted #1 in NYC). The waiter replied, "Swiss cheese? No, we're not that nice here." That is Brooklyn charm at its finest.

Peter Luger's Steakhouse is located in Williamsburg, Brooklyn and is an institution in the neighborhood. Its building and interior seem unchanged since they opened over a hundred years ago. Inside are unfinished (or worn) wooden tables, antique chandeliers, and even more antiquated waitstaff. Their servers are known for their brusqueness, humor, and downright abrupt behavior. One look at them concludes that they must hire to fit the same mold. This culture is not for the diner who is used to a lot of hand-holding, but make no mistake, the service is good and fast. The menu is very limited and so most guests are regulars and know what they want.

"You guys need menus?" is the first question the waiter will ask, and it's considered a source of pride to not need one. It tells the waiter that you know your stuff. Regulars always say no, they're good, and proceed with their order of one or two steaks for the table, and a couple of sides. Nobody orders the fish. And please, nobody orders individual steaks unless you're really by yourself. This place serves steak family style.

The rolls for the table are really tasty, especially the onion roll. Dip it in Luger's Steak Sauce while waiting, and don't be shy in asking for the leftovers to bring home. They're used to fans of their rolls.

Their bacon is another famous appetizer, but I thought was hardly impressive. They are just thick slabs of smoked pork belly but remind me of pan-fried ham.

The reason to come is their steaks, and the only way to enjoy it is MEDIUM RARE. If you're not ready for medium rare, it would really be a shame to go to Luger's. We've convinced many hemophobes that the plate comes scorching hot and they are free to sear the rare pieces on the sides to their liking. This approach has worked for many hesitant diners, and helped them transition to a real appreciation of Peter Luger's steaks. They are not dry aged for you to eat them when they are a dry medium or well done. There will be no flavor. Trust the suggestion of experts who have been doing this for over a hundred years.

Luger's steaks are served and priced according to the number of people at the table. "One steak for two and another for four" is a typical order, for example. Even with hearty eaters, it's typical to order for one less person at the table if you're having sides and appetizers. Don't be afraid, there will be a lot to go around.

The steak is tender and marbled in the way I haven't seen, even in places known for their beef like in Argentina. I studied marbling in vet school and spent time in beef cattle farms and studied meat inspection methods. I don't know where Luger's beef comes from but those cows must be loved!

Their creamed spinach is of a variety I've never had anywhere, as are their fries. Dip the fries in steak sauce or ketchup and mustard (upon request). Do not ask for A1 or any other steak sauce. You will not be forgiven!

The famous steak sauce is so popular that it is now commercially available in well-stocked supermarkets and butcher shops. The sauce is thick and sweet with a blend of tomatoes, garlic, horseradish and tamarind. It's great on their steak, bread and fries.

The Holy Cow is their signature hot fudge sundae with homemade hot fudge, ice cream, chocolate covered rice crispies, nuts, and schlag on top. It is huge so it's good enough to share. This is my favorite dessert there, along with their chocolate mousse cake below.

The Peter Luger's chocolate mousse cake is the perfect level of richness and sweetness on a crispy cookie crust. It's also pretty big so it's best to share, not that it would be hard to find takers for this lovely creation.

And their cheesecake on a graham cookie crust. I believe this knocks the famous Junior's Cheesecake out of the park. I seriously don't get the deal with Junior's, but that's another story.

There is a lot to be said about the steak wars in New York City, but I think there are very few contenders that can go up against Luger's as far as dry-aged beef and a secret that's been successful since the 1800s. I enjoy no-frills places and PL is one of them. The month or two wait for a weekend dinner reservation is proof that their charm has not worn off. And let's not forget, it's cash only! Or you can get a Peter Luger's credit card, a status symbol at this century-old haunt.

Alternative Views: Brooklyn Heights Promenade

2012-02-04T10:43:00.000-05:00

The Brooklyn Heights Promenade is a great spot to see views of the Manhattan skyline.

The two bridges connecting Brooklyn to Manhattan are also visible from this spot,

like the Brooklyn Bridge at the far end of this bench.

The iPad2 rules the world, of course.

My strange photography classmate walking about, a perfect contrast against the view of the city.

The Brooklyn Heights globe sculpture.

A view of the highway through leaves.

The dog park through a wire fence.

A perfect summer day with the city sky.

Bench and Bridge.

Someone knitted a sweater for this fence.

City, garbage and green.

Otafuku Takoyaki and Okonomiyaki

2012-02-03T14:01:00.000-05:00

For all the talk about New York being an expensive city to live in with restaurants that are often out of reach, there are still places like Otafuku in the East Village where one can get a unique gustatory experience for under $10. Sure, the entire place is the size of your bathroom and there is only standing room to eat (if you're lucky). But this is New York, and if you live here you know that size is not equal to space. It's what you make of it. And what Otafuku has done with nary a space to sit is quite remarkable.

It's far from fancy. Three guys and a griddle plus a hardwood counter where they dump the nori, bonito, Bulldog sauce and Japanese mayo on your selection.

There are only three things on the menu: takoyaki (dumplings with octopus), okonomiyaki (potato and cabbage pancakes with pork), and yakisoba. I like simple menus. It keeps the restaurant focused and maintains the quality of its limited offerings.

A wall poster describes their offerings in detail:

"TAKOYAKI: Takoyaki, octopus balls, maybe called Japanese Comfort Food made by pouring a liquid paste of wheat flour into round metal molds and adding chopped octopus, ginger, scallion, and tenkasu to the paste and broil the mixture like little balls.

OKONOMIYAKI: Okonomiyaki is a Japanese style pancake made using a batter of flour, water and egg with shredded cabbag, corn, meat (beef or pork) or seafood (shrimp or squid) grilled on a hot plate and topped with special sauce, mayonniase, dried bonito flakes, dried seaweed powder. Okonomiyaki literally means Cook what you like, and customers can get choose (sic) their own favorite ingredients and then cook up their Okonomiyaki."

My favorite is the takoyaki and okonomiyaki combo for $9, a full meal for even a big eater such as myself. I ask for extra ginger and red pepper powder and they gladly oblige, recognizing I must know my stuff. I'm not Japanese, but my country was a Japanese colony for a while. I'm just teasing. All I know about okonomiyaki I learned in New York, from Otafuku and in the homes of gracious friends.

Takoyaki on the left and okonomiyaki buried in bonito flakes on the right, plus extra red ginger.

I enjoy watching my food made in front of me because I can see the simplicity of the process: potato flour batter and some vegetables, a hot griddle and some chopstick and toothpick maneuvers.

Turning the takoyaki, as seen through a hot and oil-splattered window.

As far as the finished product, it's the best of its kind. I hardly find okonomiyaki in Japanese restaurants (I've seen it once on a menu in 10 years of NYC dining, and it was nothing like Otafuku's). The okonomiyaki is soft, flavorful, and served with an abundance of toppings and sauces. The takoyaki is crisp on the outside and soft and juicy on the inside. I believe I only see takoyaki in Japanese market food courts, and rarely at that. This combo above remains to be one of my favorite quick go-to meals in the city. The crowd that gathers outside the cramp food stall seems to agree.

There is only one outdoor bench to sit on, and it has a warning sign.

The Otafuku lady guards the stall from the bark of wood in which she is carved. This box that must be as narrow as one king bed offers a secret that's hard to guess from outside.

I've made okonomiyaki at home. It's pretty good, but it can never be made with this much love. As far as Japanese street food (until a future trip to Tokyo), Otafuku has my heart.

Otafuku

236 East 9th Street New York, NY 10003-7503

(212) 353-8503

Ginger Flounder and Steamed Choy Sum

2012-02-02T12:37:00.000-05:00

Want a healthy, delicious meal in under thirty minutes? This puts the entree and the side in one oven for a great meal 20 minutes later.

We first encountered this fish dish when a friend named Fanny made it for us, but using a whole snapper. We've always enjoyed the flounder at Hop Kee so we decided to order a whole flounder from Fresh Direct (can't say any more good things about their fish and seafood section). I like this dish because of its simple yet distinct flavors and relatively simple preparation. Along with choy sum (chinese brocolli), it's a perfect combination of light protein and greens.

Pre-heat the oven to 400C. Begin by cutting through the meat of the flounder twice with a knife. Don't go all the way through! Salt the flounder on both sides and drizzling some olive oil on top. Cover with aluminum foil and bake for 20 minutes.

While the flounder is baking, cut and arrange choy sum (Chinese broccoli) in a baking dish
and drizzle with some olive oil.

Cover securely with aluminum foil. This will create the steam that will cook your choy sum.

Put the choy sum alongside the flounder and retrieve both when the flounder is done.

While both are baking, cut some ginger into very this strips.

Saute ginger in olive oil and drizzle with a little soy sauce and sesame oil.

Ginger should turn into a crisp brown.

The flounder is done in 20 minutes or when the meat is opaque but still moist and slightly gelatinous.

Pour the ginger mixture on top of the flounder.

Take the choy sum out.

Voila! If you think this looks pretty, wait till you smell it.

Serve with the choy sum for a fragrant, sumptuous and healthy meal!

Served here with a dollop of bukkake okazu rayu or chili garlic oil for the choy sum. One may substitute oyster sauce or soy sauce for dipping, or simply eat the choy sum on its own.

The flounder goes really well with the sweetness of the choy sum when it's steamed in its own juice.

I love chili garlic oil, especially this one that our friends graciously shared with us from Tokyo.

It's different from the Chinese version (I favor Lee Kum Kee's chili oil) in that it is much more flavorful and has bits of fried garlic that miraculously stay crispy in the oil. A must-have if it's available to you. Left to my own devices, I could drink this bottle straight up!

Pet Photography: Simon

2012-02-01T19:10:00.000-05:00

This is our cat Simon who turns eight this year.

He enjoys playing with his sister Greta, and looking like a catfish.

He enjoys posing for the camera and getting into trouble.

Looking generally unimpressed, he is only waiting for an opportunity to kill you.

Here he is with his best foot forward.

He wants to know if you like his whiskers.

Or if you are just in awe of his good looks.

Either way you have the permission to stare.

Sometimes he'll even stare back.

But only if he's not busy with anything else. Like eating plastic.

Hotel Esperas, Santorini

2012-02-01T08:45:00.000-05:00

On four warm mornings in the late summer of 2009, we woke up and had breakfast with the view of the Caldera, the islands formed by the volcanic rock in the Agean Sea which comprise the stunning views off the cliffs of Thira/Santorini, Greece.

We stayed at the Esperas Hotel, a 16 room resort with units carved out of the mountain. In the mornings we would leisurely sit around for an extended breakfast (buffet, included in room rate) of toast, meats, fruit and yogurt, and then either lay out by their pool or find a beach for the day.

The late afternoons would be spent by the cliffside tavernas by the coast, feasting on octopus, seafood pastas, hummus and tzatziki.

We'll definitely be back.

More on Greece:
Alternative Views
Babulas Taverna in Mykonos
Kiki's Taverna at Agios Sostis
A Mykonos Meow: Photo Essay
The Daily Applause at Oia
No Name Taverna Delights, Santorini & Mykonos
Mykonos and the Taverna at Agios Sostis
Oia: The Taverna at the Bottom of the Cliff

DUMBO Street Art

2012-01-31T16:12:00.000-05:00

What I love about New York is the art that is everywhere. Because thousands of artists flock to the city to try their luck, areas such as Brooklyn's DUMBO (Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass), home to a lot of artist studios, organizations and exhibit halls, benefit from the talent that just spontaneously produces art for public consumption.

Here are a few prints and random street graffiti on walls of its streets.

Le End indeed.