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  • Construction

    Exacting Standards:
    The Double-H Construction Process

    In the following pages, you will get an up-close look inside the intricate construction process of Double-H boots, made by the skilled hands of 350 dedicated Americans at our Martinsburg, Pennsylvania factory. From initial leather cutting to final packaging, it takes over 125 separate processes to create a Double-H boot that fits our exacting standards and those of our customers. Divided into seven major functions, each of these processes is meticulously executed with precision and great care.

  • Cutting

    The first step in our intensive manufacturing process begins in the cutting room, where leathers are marked with stamped dies and cut into all of the necessary pieces needed for construction.

  • Pre-Fit

    In this process, the individual parts of the leather upper and lining are marked for stitching, branded with logos, and “skived” to thin out the edges.

  • Fitting

    Inside the fitting room, each of the individual parts is assembled into the shoe’s upper. Details such as eyelets and temporary laces are added here.

  • Lasting

    The newly assembled upper is pulled up over a last, or molded shoe form, to ensure a secure fit with a smooth finish, straight seams, and no gaps or bunching on the inside or outside of the shoe. This is an exacting process and one that is essential to the integrity of the shoe.

  • Making

    Also known as bottoming, or constructing, this is the action of attaching the sole to the upper using one of three methods: cementing, direct attaching - molding through the heat or pressure, or welting with a stitched seam.

  • Finishing

    The final details are applied in the finishing room – from removing the last from the boot to attaching the heel with nails, trimming, burnishing, buffing, polishing, adding laces and more – and giving each shoe a final inspection to ensure they satisfy Double H’s exacting standards.

  • Packaging

    Once the boxes are assembled with lightning-fast speed by our dexterous box maker, the shoes are wrapped in tissue and then placed into the boxes so they can be sent to the warehouse distribution center, where they are organized by style, size and width and ready to be shipped and sold.