Dedicated to fashion …

It’s official – Raf Simons on the throne @ DIOR

Douglas — Tue, 10 Apr 2012 12:38:09 +0000

Christian Dior has finally filled the vacant post left by John Galliano after his infamous firing well over a year ago. Belgian designer Raf Simons has been named artistic director at DIOR. Pret-a-porter and accessories chime in at just about $1.4 billion annually. A healthy business and considerable sizing up from his last gig at Jil Sander. The post where he was replaced by the eponymous Jil Sander, herself. ( much to the dismay of a surprisingly large group of editors and retailers )

Raf Simons started his career as a avant garde men’s wear designer in 1995. I remember trying on some of his jackets with severely exaggerated shoulders up in the Penthouse of Barneys downtown back in the day. Raf did not design a women’s collection until 2005 when he was appointed design director at Jil Sander. Since then, he has been designing his own label alongside of both men’s and women’s at Jil Sander.

Currently, Raf Simons is known more for his purist and minimalist views of fashion. Because he is an intellectual designer, he is very capable of thinking of fashion past and doing fashion future at the same time. He, surprisingly, has incorporated 1950’s couture shapes and ideas with a modern take when he was at the helm at Jil Sander. Good timing on his part. Christian Dior opened the doors of his fashion house in 1947. What makes Raf Simons a great designer is that he respects the house and the DNA that a designer has created and is not fearful to render homage to said designer. Yet, he never does it in a way that looks like dredged up vintage. This respect and his modernist views always propels his work defiantly forward. He is shy by nature and not a showman as his predecessor. It’s his work and thoughts that attract the spotlight and attention.

Raf Simons will add couturier to his resumé at Dior. He shows his first collection in July for Fall Couture. As we know now, Dior Homme will still be designed by Kris Van Assche. ( will that change soon as well? ) There will be a definite duel this coming October rtw shows. With Hedi Slimane ( previously of Dior Homme fame ), as YSL’s newly appointed creative director, the stakes are large for top dog. LVMH is banking on Raf’ Simons’ talents and capacity to steer the Dior woman in a more modern direction. Can’t wait to see the changes to come….

photo: thank you unknown source.

Azzedine Alaia

Douglas — Sun, 25 Mar 2012 07:11:38 +0000

Azzedine Alaia put a bit of movement into his f.w 2012 collection. He worked with shapes that floated away from the body. A great departure for the designer known for his body sculpting dresses. Movement was also worked into volumes of knit volants or ruffles. Moving sculptures. Beautiful but a bit heavy for mon gout. They added so much volume to the size 2 models, imagine their effect on a normal woman. Nonetheless, it’s nice to know that Mr. Alaia is also capable of playing against type.

photos : Livio Gallo – NY Times

Chanel : new age ~ new look

Douglas — Thu, 08 Mar 2012 07:43:30 +0000

Karl Lagerfeld isn’t any where close to ending his reign at Chanel. His giant crystal embedded runway was the setting for his latest “new look.” Where hasn’t he taken the iconic Chanel tweed? Is the world ready for his new three piece suit? I kind of like it!

and Chanel for toddlers?

The man seems to never run out of ideas. I’ve see Karl Lagerfeld numerous times out on the street, in hotel lobbies and at fashion parties / events. Never have had the honor to meet him, though. It would be one of those once in a lifetime moments to shake hands with this icon who is a never ending fountain of new ideas.

photos: Monica Feudi / feudiguaineri.com

Chloé – not there yet

Douglas — Tue, 06 Mar 2012 07:41:02 +0000

Clare Waight Keller has been trying to get the Chloe girl right for a couple of seasons now. She’s not quite gotten there yet. The English designer has a bit of a ways to go before she brings her Chloe girl back to the head of the class where she use to sit amongst the cool girls. ( those who hung out with Pheobe Philo and Stella McCartney aren’t giving this girl a look sidewise )

Comme des Garcons – leader of the pack

Douglas — Mon, 05 Mar 2012 07:35:16 +0000

The images of this recent Comme des Garcons show have made such an impression on me…. I had to share a few more photos. Beauty in such an off center sort of way makes lasting impressions.

all photos: DChen

Comme des Garcons – Queen of hi art

Douglas — Sat, 03 Mar 2012 23:47:22 +0000

Rei Kawakubo presented one of the best shows of the season this afternoon. She did it with bravado and finesse. No one can claim fame to be a fashion force more than Ms. Kawakubo when playing with proportion, shape and re-thinking the female form. These shapes were anything but “Comme des Garcons.”

Her bold choice of colors only highlighted her exaggerated silhouettes. The strongest being coats and dresses. At times bicolor in loopy, arty, cartoon patterns or just to emphasize the female shape. One look after another awed the fashion flock. There was an evident level of pleasure experienced, judging from the faces around me.

This collection merited the 5 or so minutes of adulation the editors and buyers heaped on Ms. Kawakubo. The applause went on forever, hoping for an appearance by the fashion prophet. ( it never happens…. she refuses ) It’s conceptualism and beauty came from the mind of a creative genius.

photos: DChen

Lanvin – Alber turns a glam 10.

Douglas — Sat, 03 Mar 2012 07:33:52 +0000

It’s gone by so quickly. Alber Elbaz celebrates his 10 year anniversary chez Lanvin this season. Last night’s show was one of the hotter tickets in town. He’s always prided himself as being a designer who only wants to give women what they want to wear. Not a bad creedo. He didn’t disappoint. He punctuated his anniversary collection with a glam factor unleashed. Color, confection et sexier than usual. The collection is a smash! He’s brought Lanvina a long ways from the dusty label it was only a short decade ago. Here’s hoping this is a relationship that lasts amongst all the fashion world turmoil and the designer chess game taking place this season. ( photos Yannis Vlamos / gorunway.com )

Balenciaga – Paris f.w 2012

Douglas — Fri, 02 Mar 2012 08:27:36 +0000

Nicolas Ghesquiere can always be counted on the have vision. His play this season was on corporate attire. Hence the show was held on the 27th floor of la Tour Cristal in the 15th on the quai André Citroen. The space was fashioned by Dominique Gonzalez- Foerster, artist and long time collaborator of Mr. Ghesquiere. Supersonic….the space, the view and the clothes. His consideration of corporate attire for women is not anything I’ve ever seen the likes of in any offices… but it made for a beautifully strong show. Plays on proportion, at times exaggerated and challenging, and and his usual extensive fabric research and development made it futuristic, experimental and bold. And a small side note… after numerous season of impossible high rise platform shoes, the entire collection was shown with great shoes at normal heel heights. Kind of refreshing….

Gareth Pugh – dark knight

Douglas — Thu, 01 Mar 2012 07:59:37 +0000

English designer Gareth Pugh is based in Paris and showed the first day on the Paris calendar. A graduate of Central Saint Martins in London who has graced us with Alexander McQueen, Pheobe Philo, John Galliano and Stella McCartney. He’s not new to the scene. He interned with Rick Owens and you can definitely see a bit of his mentor in his dark aesthetic. Gareth has always presented very bold and statement making collections. Many times questionable in taste. This fall season, his work has reached a whole new level. A stunner. He’s definitely one to watch.

photos: Yannis Vlamos / gorunway.com

and the Oscar goes to… Gwyneth Paltrow in Tom Ford

Douglas — Tue, 28 Feb 2012 07:49:50 +0000

The rest…. other than Meryl Streep’s gold Lanvin gown, left me wanting for more from the red carpet. Gwyneth won hands down with her white Tom Ford column and floor length cape.