Nancy Jackson Designs

How to Make a Custom Belt Buckle

2016-02-20T16:41:00.000-06:00

I have two grown sons and one grown daughter. I can make jewelry all day long for my daughter and daughter-in-law, but my guys aren't much for wearing jewelry in the traditional sense.

I wanted to make them something special just from their mom that they would keep forever and pass down to their sons. Finally I came up with the idea to make them each a belt buckle.

For several weeks I thought about how I wanted them to look. I didn't want the same thing I had seen a thousand other places. But I wanted something classic that they could wear anytime.

I Googled to see if I could find some helpful tips on making belt buckles and was very surprised when I found next to nothing! That is one reason I thought I would actually document this journey. I also wanted my sons to have an inside view of just how their buckles were made.

There are a lot of steps and a lot of pictures but I wanted to capture as much as I could.

Here is a pic of the three belt buckles that I made so far. I gave two to my sons and one to my husband for Valentine's Day.

I had purchased three dinosaur bone cabochons from a local supplier, Arrowhead Supply. They always have tons of great stones and supplies. If you are in Oklahoma you need to check them out!!

They had purchased these three stones/bones I believe, from a man who is from SE Oklahoma and had finished them himself.

I did not want the buckles to be completely silver. I love to mix metals because of the contrast the different colored metals produce.

I like brass because it is hard and I love the color both in a high shine and with a patina.

So I chose 18 gauge brass for the back plate and 24 gauge argentium silver for the top plate. I use argentium silver almost exclusively.

There are different rules to follow when using it instead of sterling, but once you have the procedure down, it is worth it! The bezel's around the stones are fine silver.

Here is a picture with all three stones after I had made their bezels. Don't know why, but I did not take a picture of that process. But I made them just like you would any bezel. (1) Measure the strip around the stone (2) Mark the overlap (3) Cut (4) File the ends slightly, perfectly square (5) Form and solder closed using hard solder.

I started it all by deciding how big to make the buckle, which means I had to decide what size belt to make it for. So I shopped online for the belts. I knew I had to find one that snapped so that they could put the buckle onto the belt. I guess I never thought about how many belts come without a way to change the buckles.

Once I had the belt I knew that the bar that the belt snaps onto had to be just a tiny bit bigger to give the buckle some play. Once I determined how big to make the bar I was then able to determine how big to make the actual buckle. I wanted the buckle to cover the bar completely. As far as width, I played around with some real size sketches to see what looked visually pleasing while still remaining functional.

Once I had the brass back plate cut out I filed down the entire perimeter to smooth out the saw lines.

Then I drew freehand a small dragonfly on the piece where the silver top plate would cover it and show through on the underside.

I then used a punch to mark my drill point. I don't use this punch on thinner or softer metal, but on the 18 gauge brass I knew there was no concern about metal displacement.

I used my flexshaft with a drill bit to drill where the divot from the punch was.

I threaded my saw blade through the hole I had just drilled.

And began to saw out the dragonfly.

All done.

For the decorative elements on the brass plate I used my ruler and sharpie to draw them on. Each one has a different design. I love to use Sharpie's because they do not rub off when working with them, but easily come off with fire or polish remover.

I used a cutting disc on my flexshaft to cut the lines. I made a brass template to use as a guide and moved it along for each one. On the buckle that had small divots at the ends of the lines I used the punch, then drill, then finally a round bur to hollow it out half round.

Using my paper pattern I drew the outline onto the silver with a Sharpie and sawed it out.

And then filed to smooth.

Now to solder the bezel onto the silver top plate. To solder, it must touch everywhere and sometimes it is hard to get a bezel to touch at every single place along the flat base. I placed the silver sheet between two steel blocks and hammered to completely flatten the base.

Then I reshaped the bezel around the stone and sanded the bottom edge to make it completely flat. The stones were different heights so I made sure that the bezel was the correct height for each stone. I had to sand down all three bezels but at varying degrees according to stone height.

I laid the bezel with flux onto the base which was fluxed. I used my third hand to gently rest on each end of the bezel to keep it down and in place.

I then pic soldered the bezel onto the plate. In pic soldering I cut small pieces of medium silver solder and heated them to form tiny balls which I picked up with a titanium pic and then placed onto the seam where the bezel met the base. I used about 6 small solder pieces.

Then I needed to sweat solder the two plates together. To sweat solder it takes a lot of solder. You do not want air pockets between the two pieces. Here I used brass wire solder. I really like it when soldering brass to anything. Before cutting the pallions I use steel wool to run along the wire a few times to thoroughly clean. Then I use my solder wire cutters.

I cut them into a small glass bowl and use a tiny paintbrush dipped in flux to pick them up and place them on the back plate which I have already completely covered in flux.

I use my torch to completely heat the backplate moving around the edges to heat evenly and then move in. It is the heat from the backplate, not the heat from the torch that causes the solder to flow.

Flowing solder. You can see the fire scale and stain on the brass. Each time I heat the metal I then put it into a heated pickle solution to remove as much of this as possible.

When sweat soldering I always use my 3M rotary wheel or steel wool to further remove any type of firescale or stain. I have found through trial and error that this is the very best way to arrive at a good solder joint.

I then flux the entire backplate again and the entire topplate again.

I use my third hand which is actually a little GRS solder station with two articulated 'hands' with clamps. I used the double hands and placed them gently pressing down on each end of the top plate inside the bezel. Inside, in case there are marks left, they will be inside the bezel rather than outside where it would show and I would have to clean it up.

In my experience sometimes when the flux bubbles and pops up the top piece it doesn't always solder together completely well. I use the third hand to keep the flux from pushing up and creating additional unnecessary air pockets between the plates. Through trial and error I have found this to be an easy and excellent way to get a good sweat solder join.

I used my torch to heat around the edges of the bottom brass plate. It needs much more heat and so it should be heated first. I moved the torch around to heat the entire piece at that time. Be very careful to not melt the fine silver bezel.

When you see the solder squeeze out around the entire perimeter of the silver topplate then you know that the piece is completely soldered.

Once soldered together I put the piece in the pickle. Out of the pickle it goes to a soda solution to neutralize the pickle then into a clear water bath to rinse of any soda. This pickle process must be done every time fire touches the metal.

The picture above is after I have removed it from the pickle and then used my flexshaft and rotary wheel to remove any stubborn fire stain and any excess solder from around the edge of the silver plate.

To form the bar which the buckle will attach to, I measured the entire length I needed making sure there was extra. I had to guess at how big to make the rectangle.

I knew the belt had to pass through twice so there must be at least room for two belt thicknesses. I wanted there to be a little movement but not so much that it would be sloppy. So I played around with different sizes until I believe I got a good size.

I then measured and marked the length of each side with a sharpie. For the bar and the hook I used 8 gauge half round brass wire.

This 8 gauge half round wire is very hard and bulky. So to bend it into square corners I needed to create mitered corners. To do that I used my jewelers saw and cut about 3/4 of the way through on each mark on what would be the inside (round) part of the wire.

This picture shows how I start a cut with the saw. I tilt it at an angle to get a groove or notch started then move my saw to an upright position and move up and down.

I then used my triangular file to file a wedged shape or miter shape into the metal. The saw cut created a good and exact line to keep the triangular file just where it needed to be.

Here is a picture of one of the finished miter joins. Cutting these miters into the brass was difficult. The brass is very hard and the small pieces are hard to hold. I tried different tools to try and hold the metal while cutting and filing but found that for these pieces my fingers really were the best tools.

This piece is actually the hook. Notice the rounded end that I filed to make it good and smooth.

Then I used my parallel pliers to bend the sides of the brass to form a rectangle.

The ends overlapped since I left extra at the ends. I didn't want to cut that last cut until I had made all the corners, so that when I did make that last cut it would be exact.

Then I measured where they overlapped and used my jewelers saw to cut them flush. Then used my file to further finish the ends completely smooth and flush.

Next was the hook. I measured it out 1in and made a mark about 5/8ths up on the piece.

I then did the same process of sawing 3/4ths of the way through with the saw on the mark and then filing with the triangular file to make a miter.

The above pic shows the hook once I bent it into a 90 degree angle.

Then I wanted to have just a light curve in the hook to hold it into the hole of the belt better. It didn't need a huge curve which would make it hard to buckle, but a slight one. I did this with my half round pliers.

Before I could solder the bar closed I needed to thread on the two round argentium tubes which would joint the bar to the buckle.

I used argentium silver since that is what I had on hand but you could use copper. Brass, if you could find the right size, would be too hard. You could however use sheet and form a half round tube and solder on. There are many ways it could be done.

Whatever tubing you use make sure that the wire rotates easily within the tube.

I use my calipers to measure a width I thought would be an efficient size.

I then placed it in my miter vise and used my jewelers saw to cut flush against the vise. I do not normally saw with my saw in this direction, but with this miter I have found that if I put the side screw into the curved portion of my bench pin and press while sawing I get the best stability.

I cut two lengths of tube for each buckle.

Once cut, I used my flat nose pliers to pinch a flat side. First by placing the pliers in one end and pinching then removing and pinching from the other side.

I then filed on the outside a flat spot to have a good flat place to solder to the base plate.

Now my challenge here was to solder the tubes onto the buckle without soldering the bar to the buckle or the tubes. Sounds easy but I completely flux all pieces to reduce firescale. Having flux covering the piece will also allow the solder to flow wherever it chooses. I needed a way to contain it.

I had bought some yellow ocher (Rio No Flow) some time ago and decided to try it. It is sold as an anti-soldering agent and is highly toxic. It is sometimes hard to remove but I was not worried about removing it since it would be on the inside of the tubes where it would never show.

So I very carefully mixed the powdery product with denatured alcohol. I used a very tiny paintbrush and made sure I wore my mask.

I then carefully painted the solution on the inside only of the tubes being very careful to not get any on the outside where I wanted the solder to flow.

I opened the rectangle much like you would a jump ring, from side to side not apart.

Once the insides of the tubes were dry I threaded them onto the rectangle

and then closed the rectangle back up making sure I had the ends completely flush against each other with no gap or light at all.

I then fluxed the entire piece and placed it in my third hand with the seam up. I used bras solder which I laid on the seam and soldered the seam closed.

I then soldered the corner of the hook closed in the same manner. Sorry no pic. I didn't feel the need to solder the corners of the rectangle since they would not have the pressure of the hook. The rectangle being soldered together end to end would relieve pressure placed on the corners keeping them from being pulled apart.

After pickling and rinsing I prepped the surface of the bottom of the hook and the flat side of the tubes to sweat solder. I knew when soldering these pieces onto the buckle I had to use a solder that would melt at a lower temperature than the previous solders I had used so I would not undo all my previous work.

I fluxed them and placed easy silver solder on them.

Once the solder flowed I again pickled and used steel wool to remove any excess firescale from the solder.

I then used my third hand to place the pieces where they needed to be on the back plate. I took extra time to make sure they were placed exactly where they needed to be, centered and square with the buckle.

I then soldered each one onto the back plate.

One tip I wanted to insert here was that when you are using the third hand it gets hot just like the metal you are soldering. I have this handy little silicone holder that is just the right size to grasp the handles of the tweezer hand to press it to release the item it is holding without burning me. You can find them in kitchen departments.

I used this picture earlier to show how the piece looked after soldering the top and back plates together, but it is actually after I had used 4 polishing wheels on my flexshaft and 6 different grits of polishing paper taking it to a high shine.

This is just after I had used soap and a toothbrush to give it a good scrub.

I wanted a slight curve at each end of the buckle so it wouldn't seem so flat with the corners potentially catching on things, and so it would curve more the the curve of the waist. So with my oval bracelet mandrel and a silicon mallet I hammered a slight curve on each end.

That third picture doesn't really show a good look at the curve, but I tried! Some photos just don't come out right.

I then used Midas Brown/Black solution to put a patina on the metal. The silver does not react to this patina but puts a beautiful chocolate brown on the brass.

I used steel wool to buff the brass and remove part of the patina on two of the buckles, but on the third one I buffed the entire buckle back to a high shine leaving patina in the low places.

Another tip that I like to do to protect the polished metal around the stone while setting the stone is to create a shield out of thin poster board. I lay the stone on the poster board and drawn a line around it.

I cut it out.

Then place it over the piece with the bezel sticking through.

I placed the stone in the bezel and using a bezel pusher I went around and gently pressed a bit on each side to hold the bezel. I start as low as possible right next to the base. I do not push all the way in yet, but work my way around working my way up and in.

I went completely around the bezel several times pressing more and more of the bezel down. You can see how the poster board protects the piece from marks from the bezel.

I like to use fine silver for bezels because they are so soft they condense back into themselves rather ripple.

After I have done all I can do with the flat bezel pusher, I switch to my curved pusher and continue to work my way around pressing the bezel further and further down onto the stone.

I use my thumb to lay on the stone where I am pushing to protect the stone. Not in this pic, but I do.

Once the bezel is in place I use a polishing wheel to go around the edges of the bezel and to make any further touch ups that I feel are needed.

And it was done! This is a pic of the one I made for my oldest son from several angles and how it sits on the belt.

This is one of the most challenging projects I have tackled but I was very pleased with the outcome and I feel I have created an heirloom for them to pass down to their sons as well.

Please leave comments and share! I would love to hear what you have to say. Sorry this was such a long blog but the process was a long one as well.

Are YOU interested in learning to design and make your own jewelry? We offer in studio one on one classes. CLICK HERE to learn more!

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www.NancyJacksonDesigns.com

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Amber's Brooch Bouquet

2015-09-16T13:10:00.000-05:00

Recently I did a post of my daughter's brooch bouquet that I made for her wedding. Well my son is getting married in October and I made my almost daughter-in-law a brooch bouquet as well.

Even though they are both brooch bouquets, they are totally different.

My daughter wanted a very neutral bouquet with cream flowers where the flowers showed through and a scattered amount of silver and gold brooch's. Below is a picture of her's. To see more pics of this one click here.

Amber (my son's fiance) wanted a nearly solid brooch bouquet with tons of jewel tones. Their wedding is going to be fall colors but with the added colors of deep purple, dusty dark blue, and a deep red.

When my daughter and I got out my huge tub of costume jewelry I had saved from my mother, the queen of costume jewerly, we sat for an entire afternoon and sorted. We put the neutrals for her in one pile and the colored ones in a pile for Amber. Then we cleaned and cleaned and boy did they sparkle.

Then the first step is to wire each piece and attach to a pic. For Amber's it took me a full afternoon. Underneath her brooch's I put varying colors of hydrangea's to soften and fill in. Here is how her's turned out.

There were several necklaces so I picked both ends on some and draped them to form a swag of sorts to lengthen the bouquet and soften the hard round shape.

The large hydrangea leaves near the bottom give support from behind for the draped pieces as well as add a dark backdrop to show off their color and shine.

Their wedding will be a mixture of very elegant elements and lots of sparkle with a little modern day country charm. There are several arrangements in metal containers, old bottles, and mason jars which have been decorated with burlap, lace, and rhinestones. So to hide some of the mechanics of the bouquet in the back I ruffled burlap and hot glued onto the holder.

Since I had used a conventional hard foam plastic floral holder I needed to do two things. (1) I needed to reinforce it to hold the extreme weight of the bouquet as well as (2) hide the ugly plastic handle. So I used stems I had cut off from the flowers and hot glued them around the plastic handle and then wrapped it in sparkly ribbon.

Fit for a princess! I can't wait to see her in her beautiful dress holding this exquisite bouquet!

I did tell her to start working out though because with dozens of metal earrings, brooch's, and necklaces in this piece it is considerably heavy. This glass container is weighted down full of pea gravel and still wants to tip forward.

A close up of some of the jewels.

Thank you for taking a look. I would love to hear your comments. Also if you would like to see the blog with my daughters brooch bouquet click here.

Are YOU interested in learning to design and make your own jewelry? We offer in studio one on one classes. CLICK HERE to learn more!

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Amber Swarovski Pendant in Silver & Brass

2015-08-18T15:27:00.000-05:00

Lately I have had several special orders and I love it!! This one just gave me a price and said do something nice. It was for a gift and they really didn't care what it was as long as it was something different and beautiful.

I had a 36mm Swarovski Crystal Golden Shadow Pear stone. It was beautiful and I thought would make a great and simple pendant.

I wanted the stone to hang inside a wire casing. I took 12 gauge Argentium Silver wire and a 'Now That's A Jig' and made a lop-sided infinity loop. I laid the stone on the jig to see the size I needed to made the loops.

I then took it off of the jig and marked with a fine sharpie where to cut the wire.

Then I used my saw and cut the wire at an angle to fit the crossing wire.

I filed both ends of the wire so that the angle would be just right to match up with the wire it would be touching. I intended to fuse it together so I needed a good flush join.

This next picture shows the fit after filing. It is now ready to fuse. Argentium silver fuses beautifully so there is rarely a need to solder.

I dipped the piece in pink flux and then fused the two joins.

After fusing I pickled and rinsed in baking soda and then clear water. I wanted to flatten the wire and then add a texture so I laid it on my steel block and flattened with the flat portion of my hammer, making sure to hammer both sides..

Then I used the rounded end of my hammer to do a texture.

I wanted to hang the pendant on a viking knit necklace I had previously done so I decided to do a brass jump ring. I measured how large it needed to be to pass over the clasp on the end of the necklace. I sawed the link for flush ends and then put it on the silver pendant.

Then I used Handy Flux to flux the piece and set it up in my third hand with the join on top. I pick soldered the jump ring closed.

I pickled, dipped in baking soda water and rinsed. Then I hammered a texture onto the jump ring. Sorry I skipped taking that pic. I then put a liver of sulfur patina on the pendant and buffed a bit with a green scrubbie to highlight the silver and brass.

Look how beautiful that Swarovski stone shines!!!

Next step was to attach the stone to the pendant. I used 26 gauge brass wire. I cut a generous 2ft length. First I put the wire the the hole in the stone and held it roughly where I wanted it to end up. I threaded the wire through the top and then back down. I wrapped the wire through the hole in the stone and the top loop of the pendant 3 times.

I apologize for these pics. They came out blurry and I didn't realize until it was too late to take more. Once I had the 3 vertical loops I began wrapping it horizontally at the top just under the place where the silver crosses.

I threaded the wire in and out carefully wrapping around the 3 vertical wires. Each wrap was just below the other one. Take your time on this. I like the messy look on these but I think they look better if you start with a clean and precise wrap underneath.

Here I am at the stone and getting ready to continue wrapping down to cover the hole in the stone.

The pic below shows right when I was as low as I wanted to go. I then began to wrap back up to fill in some of the blank space on each side. I wanted the wire wrapping to not curve in on each side but be as straight as possible following the shape of the silver frame.

Once I had wrapped as much as I wanted I put a slight curl in the end of the wire and tucked in into the other wire wraps in the back. I took my pliers to tuck it well in so that it would not come loose or snag.

Next I took a good look at the piece and adjusted it with my fingers so that the stone would lay exactly where I wanted it. Then I laid it on my bench block and taking a urethane hammer I gently, and I mean GENTLY hammered only the wire wrapping. This is a crystal and it will chip and crack and break so I cannot stress enough that you much be gentle here.

I gently hammered the wire down onto the stone on both sides. This does two things. It work hardens the wire and makes it less likely to move and it also smooths out most bumps and make it look more finished.

Once done I took my flex-shaft and my yellow 3M sanding disc and gently touched it to the brass wire wrapping. I wanted to give it a more mat finish so the wheel took off some of the bright shine.

Then it was ready to slide on the viking knit chain I had previously made. Here is the finished product.

All ready for gift wrapping! I can't wait to hear how she likes it!

I hope you noticed how this Swarovski crystal shines and emits beautiful colors. If you want to know why Swarovski really is the best, click here to read all about them.

Thank you for visiting!!

Are YOU interested in learning to design and make your own jewelry? We offer in studio one on one classes. CLICK HERE to learn more!

Visit my website

www.NancyJacksonDesigns.com

LIKE me on Facebook

https://www.facebook.com/NancyJacksonDesigns/

Follow me on Instagram

@najackson

Follow me on Twitter

@NAJackson

Join me on Google+

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NJDesigns@cox.net

Etching Copper & Brass

2015-08-10T11:53:00.000-05:00

I have previously etched copper and brass by using a rubber stamp and a Staze-on ink pad. It worked superb. But this time I wanted a design that was unique and that I was able to customize. So I used the 'blue paper' method.

First I actually traced a very large leaf and then hand drew in the tiny cells that I wanted to give it texture. Once I had the leaf I scanned it at a high resolutions and then used that graphic to shrink and make multiple sizes on a page.

To use this method you must print using a laser printer. The paper is Press-n-peal Blue PCB Transfer Paper/Film Etch Circuit Board paper. I purchased it online from Dipmicro Electronics.Twenty sheets were $33.12. It is a little pricey but I expect it to last a long time. That is another reason I wanted to use a full sheet when printing.

This picture is on plane white paper so you could see the design and I wanted to see if my layout was ok.

This next sheet shows the blue paper after I printed it with the design.

Next I cut out blocks of the design to tape onto the metal. The glass pan I was using was a 9x13 glass Pyrex dish, but the sides were curved and it would not accommodate the full 12" sheet so I cut the metal in smaller sizes and then cut out the portion of designs I wanted to fill the space.

Be sure and place the NON shiny side down. You do not need a lot of tape. I just used a tiny bit to keep it from sliding all over the place.

You will want to use a thicker gauge metal for this as the etching process will take away metal and you do not want to be left with holes where the solution etched all the way through the metal.

Then in order to transfer the blue paper to the metal you need a heat source. Please excuse the pitiful state of this old electric griddle. It is broken and limping along, but works! I placed the metal on the griddle and turned to about 200. You do not want it too hot or it will burn the paper and you don't want it to cool or it will not adhere the paper to the metal.

Not this step takes awhile so don't get too anxious. You need to burnish the blue paper onto the metal so it will adhere. I used a curved metal burnisher to help me keep from gouging it with the point. Then rub and rub and rub. And when you think it is down, rub some more. Put a lot of pressure into the rubbing.

Once you think you may be there, gently pick up the edge and check. One way to tell is that you will see the blue paper change and you will be able to see the design clearly through the paper and the paper will not slide at all. But it is easy to think you are done and still not have all of the pattern.

When I was done I took tongs and moved the sheet to sit on my steel block to cool.

See how clearly you can see the leaf designs through the paper now where before you could not?

Then I peeled the blue paper off and this is how it looked.

The next step is to use the etching compound to etch the metal. First you will need to protect the back. I used a very heavy and very sticky packing tape to do this. I completely covered the back with the tape overlapping each edge.

The first time I etched I used a powdered etching compound and added it to water. I thought I would try this solution already mixed this time but was not as happy with it. I have one more bottle of this but when it is gone I will go back to the powder mixture.

Since I was doing so much etching I poured the entire bottle into the glass dish and added enough water to bring it up a bit. About 3/4th's solution to 1/4th water. Then to 'float' the metal on top of the solution I took the tape again and laid strips across the back both ways that were long enough to tape on the edge and hold the metal up.

There will be bits of metal that are etched off and then will be dropping through the solution to the bottom. If the metal rests on the bottom there is not a space to allow those bits to drop off. If the metal rests in the bottom the bits will glob up and mess up your design.

I etched this very thick sheet of metal for about 45 minutes to an hour. Frequently through the process I stirred the solution with a wooden dowel rod to keep the solution fresh and particles falling to the bottom.

Once done I took it out and washed it off with Dawn soap and water and then dipped in a baking soda solution to make sure the chemicals were neutralized and then washed again. Here it is dried thoroughly.

I etched two sheets of metal that day, one brass and one copper. You can see on the sheet below a close up where I did not get the blue paper completed burnished down and the pattern is sparse and faded. But in this case it adds to the natural look of the skeletal leaves.

Notice also the tiny bits or blobs in between the leaves. That usually only happens with old compound but this was the first sheet I etched. I will try the other bottle of pre-mixed compound that I have to determine if it is the compound that did this. I did not have this issue when I used the powder.

Now you may ask why on earth I etched random leaves on a sheet with no pattern to speak of. Well I have a plan. I am going to cut each one out and then solder onto another piece. I have the design in my head. I hope it goes as planned.

So the next step was to saw them all out. That is a lot of sawing but I found this good practice in using my saw and it went much faster than I thought it would.

I want the leaves to have dimension and I plan to solder the stem and tip of each leaf to the piece I am making so I used my half-round pliers to curve the center of the leaf.

Then I used my flat pliers to flatten the tip and stem.

Here is a picture of how it will lay. I just did one for now until I am ready to complete the piece. I just wanted to see how it would look.

I then cleaned it with my 3M sanding disc on my flex-shaft. Since I was putting a patina on another piece with liver of sulfer, I put the leaf in as well. Below is how it looked after I took it out.

I then took steel wool and buffed off the top to highlight the high spots. You can see the detail so well. This was one of the smallest leaves. Now once I solder it onto the piece the patina will all go away, but I just wanted to see how it would look.

I love it and can't wait to finish this project!

Thank you for visiting!!

Are YOU interested in learning to design and make your own jewelry? We offer in studio one on one classes. CLICK HERE to learn more!

Visit my website

www.NancyJacksonDesigns.com

LIKE me on Facebook

https://www.facebook.com/NancyJacksonDesigns/

Follow me on Instagram

@najackson

Follow me on Twitter

@NAJackson

Join me on Google+

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or send me an email

NJDesigns@cox.net

Argentium Silver and Brass Custom Necklace

2015-08-08T19:52:00.000-05:00

This is a post about a custom order that I just finished. I was very pleased with the outcome! It was a challenge because of the unique shape of the stone. It was a wedge shape in a curve and then there were holes drilled through from corner to corner rather than straight across or up and down.

I worked on the chain first while I put some thought into how I was going to do the pendant. I cut 12 pieces of 14 gauge Argentium silver wire. I wanted some variety of color so I took 20 gauge brass wire and formed tiny coils just over 1/4 inch long. I slid the coils onto the pieces of Argentium silver wire and then began to hammer the ends to flatten them out.

Once I had each link forged I drilled tiny holes in each end for the round links. I then took 20 gauge Argentium silver wire and made about 18 jump rings. I always make more than needed just in case.

Working with two long links at a time I threaded the round jump rings into the end holes and fused them closed. Then I continued to attach the long links in this manner until I had two strands of 6 long links each. For the hook I fused a tiny round granule to another long link where the hole would have been for the jump ring and then bent it so that it would form a hook. For the ring part of the clasp I just made a jump ring and flattened it out in the same gauge as the large links. I then drilled a hole in the round part of the clasp, threaded a jump ring in and fused it to the strand.

Next I had to decide how to attache it to the pendant. I wanted to accent it by surrounding it with Argentium silver but a bezel would not do the trick as oddly shaped as it was. A bezel would also not hide the holes in the top and sides. So I made two additional long links and formed one end and added a coil of brass.

Then I bent the link in half at a 90 degree angle and saw the it would fit perfectly into the hole. Then I drilled a hole in the flattened end and added a jump ring and fused shut. I did that for both ends. Then I measured and cut a sheet of 24 gauge Argentium silver to surround the pendant.

I did a linear hammered texture on the sides and a round textured pattern on the bottom. Then I measured and drilled divots in the bottom to rest my granules in. I cut small pieces of Argentium silver wire and heated to form granules and then fused them onto the piece.

Next to attach the pieces together. I could not fuse as the stone would break under such high heat. So I put the links into the stone one at a time and gently hammered the protruding end to flatten it out. Once each was done I drilled a hole to exactly accommodate a 22 gauge brass wire in order to made a rivet for a cold connection. This was the most challenging part. I had already put on a patina and tumbled all pieces because I knew I would not be able to do that once the stone was in place. Tumbling made the pieces work hardened. I had to hit the wire hard with a tiny riveting hammer and yet not hit the stone..

Once I had the wire flattened I sat the flat piece on to see where they would meet. I then drilled a hole in each piece of wire. Next I placed the flat piece back on and held it where I wanted it while I drilled through the hole in the wire and into one side of the flat piece. I then cut a tiny piece of brass wire and set it as a rivet. Then I did the other side.

I am so pleased with how this challenging piece of jewelry came out! I hope my client is just as pleased.

Thank you for visiting!!

Are YOU interested in learning to design and make your own jewelry? We offer in studio one on one classes. CLICK HERE to learn more!

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First Turquoise Necklace Revised

2015-07-09T17:45:00.000-05:00

In the late summer of 2007 I went to Santa Fe, NM. I didn't know why I had the urge to go, but new I was being led to go there. I was single at the time and quite adventurous so I just took off and went.

While there I was looking for a necklace that I had in my head. I searched high and low and could not find what I had in mind. I know that is hard to believe that in Santa Fe, the land of a thousand pieces of jewelry, I could not find a necklace I wanted.

Then I stumbled across a bead and gem store and thought, "I'll just make my own necklace"! So I bought the beautiful turquoise and jasper gemstones you see below.

I had no idea what I was doing, but have been creative all my life, so I figured that it would be no problem. So I set out to get the minimum tools and a book to tell me what to do. I bought a few silver colored (not real silver) beads and some findings and went back to my hotel room excited to get started.

I laid out my design and it was just what I wanted. So I followed the steps in the book and gave it my best shot. The design was great but the construction technique was HORRIBLE!!! I kept trying and kept trying and finally got something that would hold together, barely! This was much harder than I had thought it would be.

I kept the necklace and even wore it some, but it was so poorly constructed that it was scratchy on my neck and honestly I was afraid it would just simply fall apart on me one day.

After about a week in Santa Fe I took my little bag of various beads and gemstones home and it was only after a year that I thought to give it another try. Low and behold the technique just all of sudden clicked and I understood just what to do.

That was many years ago and many many pieces of jewelry ago. I kept that necklace just as it was to remind me of how far I had come. But the design was beautiful and one that I really liked so I decided to take that design and redo the necklace in a beautiful piece of art that I would wear.

The first change I made was to restring the beads on 49 strand professional grade beading wire. I replaced the silver colored beads with genuine argentium silver beads. Argentium silver is beautiful like pure silver but tough like sterling, however it does not tarnish like sterling.

Then I forged a heavy silver bail out of 14 gauge argentium silver wire.

Then I made a hammered argentium silver clasp out of 24 gauge sheet. I used wire guards to protect the wire where it connects to the clasp.

Here is a photo of how the clasp locks together.

And on the manikin. It truly is a work of art. The design is just as beautiful as it was in the beginning, but now the construction is spot on!

It lays beautifully against the neck and hangs at a perfect place on the chest.

I hope you enjoyed this little journey down memory lane with me. I have finally decided after all these years and this masterful redo to part with this necklace. So if you are interested in making a purchase, click HERE to go to this product on my ETSY shop.

Thank you for visiting!!

Are YOU interested in learning to design and make your own jewelry? We offer in studio one on one classes. CLICK HERE to learn more!

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Brass Wedge Bangle

2015-07-02T18:32:00.001-05:00

Today I made 4 brass wedge bangle bracelets. I used 20 gauge sheet brass. I cut a strip of brass 1" wide and 9" long with my bench sheer .

Once those strips were cut I held them at an angle on the bench sheer and cut them cross-ways so that one end was 1" and the other tapered to a sharp point.

Then I textured each one. I put 4 different patterns on each of the 4 different bracelets. Have fun with this and come up with new textures from different types of hammers.

This one started to bow up a bit from the hammering stretching the metal so I just turned it over and gently hammered it back down flat.

I wanted to sweat solder the sharp end onto the wide end so I marked 1" from the end for placement of my solder.

I then took my triangular file and filed a sharp shallow "v" where the sharpie line was. I did this in order to stop the solder from spreading beyond the line when soldering the two ends together.

Here were three of the bracelets. I fluxed each one and laid them on my soldering block. I cut several pieces of solder into a little glass bowl and used a flux covered brush to pick them up and place them on the soldering block.

I then pick soldered the solder onto the ends of the bracelets making sure to cover the ends from the mark on.

Once the solder was on the bracelets I pickled and cleaned the bracelets. Now it was time to form the bracelets into a rounder shape so that I could then sweat solder the ends together.

You do not have to make sure that the bracelet is round at this point. In fact I left the two ends very flat so that there would be a good even contact. In order to make an 8" bangle overlap the ends about 1". The point where the solder stops at the mark should be where the end of the other side rests.

Here you will see how flat the two ends are. The flux is very white here because I had fluxed the bracelet and placed it to solder and then needed to shut down for the day. So when I cam back to my bench the solder had dried hard and white. No problem.

Then to solder I began to heat the larger piece first. I heated it all over and then put the torch underneath, moving in a circular motion until I saw the solder flow. If you see that there may be a spot where it is not completely down you can take your solder pic and gently push that portion down to make contact with the base piece. But don't let that be your standard operation. It is far better and works best if both pieces are exactly flat against each other.

Now it is time to form the bracelet into a round shape.

Then I used my small grinder bit for my flexshaft to slightly round the sharp corners. You can also use a file before you shape the bracelet round. At this time it was easier to use the flexshaft.

Now here is a great trick I learned when making a brass necklace several months ago. When you solder (heat) brass and then pickle it, very often it has a coppery sheen or finish to it. Even when you use your 3M discs to sand and polish there is still often that touch of pink.

So now I take 3 parts hydrogen peroxide and 1 part white vinegar and mix in a glass bowl. This method works best when very warm so I put the glass bowl on an old electric griddle and turn the temp to 150 degrees.

Then I put all the brass pieces in there. Here I have 3 brass swirl bangle bracelets and 4 brass wedge bangle bracelets.

I ran out of solution or I would have put enough in to cover the pieces. So I stood and swished them around and around until they were done.

Here you can see them getting dark and the solution has brown floating gunk in it. That means it is working and removing the copper off of the top of the brass.

Once out of the solution I wash with warm water and Dawn dish soap. Then I finish my pieces with 3M discs, first yellow, them blue and finally light green.

And very last I use a very fine polishing cloth. Wow! What a difference the HP & WV solution makes! Not a hint of pink.

Here you can clearly see on one side I have polished away the residue and on the other side it is still dark.

Here are the 4 brass wedge bangles. For a final finish I waxed them with Renaissance Wax. I put the wax on and let them sit then polished them to a high shine. The wax will prevent tarnish for a time but will wear off eventually. Then the bracelets will turn a natural shade of deep rich dark gold. Embrace it and love it!

I could have gone ahead and put a patina on each one but there is something really neat about the way it will patina naturally.

Are YOU interested in learning to design and make your own jewelry? We offer in studio one on one classes. CLICK HERE to learn more!

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My NEW Studio

2015-06-19T16:18:00.000-05:00

I recently noticed my blog My Workroom was getting a ton of hits, but that was my OLD workroom. We moved into a new house 3+ years ago and I now have one dedicated room for my studio. So I thought I had better get busy and post an updated blog regarding my NEW (almost) studio.

To see where I came from, my workroom at the old house, click HERE! You will find a ton of great organization tips in there!! Don't miss it.

Now when I started to take pictures I thought to myself, "I should clean up". But then that seemed like a waste of time. So you are seeing it the way it is on a daily basis when I am hard at work creating.

This is as you walk in from the hallway. I love having my jewelers bench in the bay window. It gives me light and a great view. Sometimes if the light is too much the blinds easily close. To the right is a set of tables in a "U" shape where I do beading, shipping, unpacking supplies, etc.

Here is another shot of the tables.

Here is a shot of the tables from the other side of the room.

Here is where I take the photos. It is a long TV tray with white poster board, colorful tiles and my shiny reflection board. I also have the manikins that I use from time to time. To the left behind the door is a huge trash bag of bubble wrap I have saved to use when packing and shipping out orders.

Ahhhhh, my bench. My favorite place. It is a small one but services me well. I have a lamp stand I bought years ago to the right which lights it up nicely and then to the left I have an adjustable light to get right down to where I work. Last Christmas or birthday or something, my husband bought me the adjustable front plate which allows me to put different attachments and adjust their height. I love it. I have two plates on there in this photo. One has my soldering station with a double hand and under that you can see my bench pin.

A better view of the adjustable plate with the soldering station removed. I can put the bench pin on the height plate or I can just raise the entire thing by flipping the red handle and moving it up. There is a gem setting attachment that I want to get someday when I am more practiced at setting stones.

And the plate without anything on it. Under that you can see my lap tray which is vital at a bench. I just wish I could remember to pull it out further when working. It is meant to catch all those tiny things you are constantly dropping, like bits of gold and tiny little stones...

I found this very flat vise at a hardware store for only $14 and absolutely can't imagine what I did before I found it! Yesterday I was making bangle bracelets and here I have my round bracelet mandrel in the vise so I can hammer the metal around the mandrel.

Oh my what a mess!!! This is a handy thing I discovered. It is my pickle station. Once you have soldered a piece you will put it in hot pickle, then into water with baking soda to neutralize the pickle, then finally a clear water bath to rinse of the soda water. This 3 crock, crockpot was perfect and sits just right in the space I have.

I keep a towel to the left where I sit the wet piece once out of the water. I am very careful to not get water anywhere near my steel tools. So I sit the pieces here to drain for a bit then dry with a paper towel. Yes that is my torch sitting by the paper towel, but I don't light it there or put it there when lit.

The little clear box to the right is where I put the yellow flux when soldering Argentium silver. It is small and flat with a lid which is just perfect.

The left side of my bench. I have so much on the other side that I moved my flex-shaft over here. Still getting used to that. Various pieces in various stages, cubic zirconia's, silver, turquoise, etc.

Another cool thing in my shop. I found this metal pegboard system at Michael's for crafts. I love it because it is metal and sturdy for my heavy tools, wire, etc. And I can change it about when my needs change. There is a great system for storing my rolls of heavy wire, my hammers, chasing tools, saws, pliers, sheers, apron, visor and so much more all in one tiny space right next to my bench.

I love to get tools for Christmas and other holidays. Rick bought this belt sander for me for Christmas one year. It runs with my flex-shaft. I keep the form clamped to the bench but just pick up the sander and set it aside when I'm not using it.

I have two of these carousels. I also bought these at Michael's years ago in the scrap-booking section. Here you see the elastic bands that come already on there and they are perfect for holding the clear test tubes which hold my saw blades, just random tools that don't have a good home anywhere else, and dowel rods. I use a lot of dowel rods.

A front on view of my torches and annealing/soldering station. I do use the two hand soldering station I showed you earlier, but for Argentium I love placing my hard charcoal block with it's spinner on my anealling tray which also spins. Just perfect that way, and on another TV tray as you can see. I have 3 kinds of torches. The small butane torch for Argentium, the yellow torch below to anneal brass, etc. And my Smith Micro-torch hooked to oxygen and propane.

On the shelf you can see different types of fluxes, pickle, etc.

To my left I have two rolling bins with drawers. I keep a ton of supplies in them such as drill bits, flexshaft bits, polishing papers, ring sizer, and then in these three bottom drawers I have sheets of copper, brass and bronze.

One day I needed a better way to store my silver sheet and wire that was not on rolls. I had this file box and a ton of files so now it is re-purposed. Each folder is a different gauge and the wire and sheet for that gauge is in it's correct folder. And being in this tub makes it easy to lock away into the safe when we leave town.

Here is where my finished jewelry reside. I recently reorganized this because I am making more bench jewelry and needed to make room for that, my growing assortment of boot jewelry, and the wedding jewelry.

This is a little closer shot of my bead organization. The cubbie's on the left was a paper sorter I used a couple of decades ago for sorting resumes for different cities. We went paperless at one point and I kept this. It is perfect for those little multi-compartment organizers. I keep clasps sorted by copper, gold and silver (color) and all manner of findings.

The overhead shelves hold bins of beads. Each tub holds a different color and in that tub are bags of the different styles of beads.

In front of the cubbie is a bench sheer! It has been one of the best tool purchases I have ever made. It cuts metal precisely and squarely.

This is the table where the bench sheer is. This is the very first necklace I ever made. The necklace that started it all! However the construction was hideous. Simply hideous!! I finally got tired of not wearing it so I am in the process of remaking it. I did a neat little overlay and bail design for the large bead and have restrung the beads. Now I need to make a handmade silver clasp. I also replaced all the nickle beads with pure Argentium silver. And of course it has the original genuine turquoise and red jasper.

Another shot of the bead organization. Those shelves hold a lot of weight. Thank you Rick for anchoring those shelves to the walls!

At the far end is where I keep things like tape, jewelry tags, receipts, and shipping supplies.

This space next to where I keep the shipping supplies should be clean because this is where I attempt to package my jewelry for shipping. You can also see the other round organizer full to the brim.

Adjacent to the studio is a bathroom where I do wet work like add patina's, clean jewelry, do etching, tumble in the tumbler, etc.

I found this cabinet at Hobby Lobby one day and realized it was the perfect size for this space and just perfect to put all my chemicals in. Before they were scattered on the vanity top Now when grandchildren come over they are out of the way of little hands.

A view inside the cabinet to see all my different patina's, hydrogen peroxide, vinegar, distilled water, etching compound, etc. You will notice another new addition on the wooden door, security locks. I have one on each door to the studio and we make sure we keep the alarm on when not home.

Another view of the soldering station.

This drawer unit holds jewelry bags. The bottom drawer hold the original Dragonfly In Amber Designs custom bags. Those may be the last ever of those. They are getting to expensive to make and too hard to find someone wanting to make them.

The drawer on top are the new lace bags. They are beaded and have been a big hit. The black board beside it is a sample board of Swarovski beads and crystals for the wedding jewelry designs.

So that is it! My new(er) studio. It is always changing and growing. The only thing not in here is my silver clay kiln which I keep in the garage.

I hope this inspires you to organize and create! If you have pictures of your studio I would love to see them.

Are YOU interested in learning to design and make your own jewelry? We offer in studio one on one classes. CLICK HERE to learn more!

Visit my website

www.NancyJacksonDesigns.com

LIKE me on Facebook

https://www.facebook.com/NancyJacksonDesigns/

Follow me on Instagram

@najackson

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@NAJackson

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or send me an email

NJDesigns@cox.net

Brass Swirl Bangle Bracelet

2015-06-18T16:29:00.000-05:00

I am very proud of myself but not for the reason you might guess! I finally remembered to take step-by-step (for the most part) photos when making a piece of jewelry at my bench. I always get to the end and then think to myself, "Why didn't I take pics of the process"? I'll try to do better.

Here is a pic of the finished product.

This bangle is 1 1/2 inches wide and roughly 8" (typical) in diameter. It is a bangle and not a cuff because it is completely round and a solid circle with no openings.

I started by taking a sheet of 20g brass and cutting a 1 1/2 strip off of the 6" side with my bench sheer. This is probably one of my favorite tools in my jewelry room. You could use the saw or some Joyce Chen scissors, but this is the easiest and most precise way.

Then I cut a length of 16g brass wire. The length is not that important. I made 3 of these bracelets today and all have different lengths. Just cut it long enough that you can fashion a swirl on each end.

There is a shot of my rolls of wire except for my silver, argentium and gold wire.. I love keeping the brass and copper wire stored like this. They are easy to see and use.

To begin making the swirl use your round nose pliers and start a curl. You can make your curl as tight or loose as you want. I made mine relatively loose.

To make an even loose swirl, once you have your initial curl, use one hand to curl with the pliers and then with the other hand bend it around in a loose curve.

To make the two swirls symmetrical work on one end for a bit then work on the other end working to meet near the center. That way you can use whatever length of wire you cut and both ends will be the same. Take your time and don't get in a hurry with this. You are more gentle when you go slow and this process should be a gentle process.

Once you have your swirl the way you want, you will need to take your hammer and hammer it to flatten it out. Hammer evenly holding one end with your other hand. If you hammer too much in one place it will distort the curls.

Now you need to texture your sheet. As I said I made three of these bracelets that day and each one had a different texture. Have fun with this but you will need to be careful on the ends where the wire will be soldered to the strip. Solder DOES NOT fill gaps and if your texture leaves gaps then you may not achieve a good join of the wire and sheet.

I started from the center and made the texture very dense and then graduated to less as I reached the ends. This bracelet shows two textures. You will begin to see the metal start to curl. When it curled too much to work with I turned it over and hammered it gently back down. You will want to do this gently so you don't damage the texture you created on the other side.

Once you have the texture you will want to file the sharp corners to round them so that they aren't sharp.

With the corners rounded, turn the strip over and gently file off any burs that were created along the edge when filing and texturing.

Now you have a strip of 20g brass that is 1 1/2 x 6 inches and a 16g brass swirl. For a typical bangle which is 8 inches you will need 2 inches of the swirl to fill the gap between the ends of the strip. I first laid out my strip and positioned the swirl where I thought I wanted it and then used the ruler to help determine where it needed to be.

This is a free form bangle so I am not concerned about the swirl ends overlapping exactly at the same spot on both ends. For something like this I think having them different adds more interest. But when you make one you can decide how you would prefer it to be. However it will take a lot of care to ensure that each end is exactly the same.

Now to sweat solder the wire onto the sheet. Sweat soldering, to me, is more challenging than regular soldering. In order for it to have a good join both pieces must lay totally flat against each other. Remember solder does not fill gaps so there should be no gaps between your wire and sheet.

But metal moves when heated so very often no matter how hard you have worked to get those pieces exactly flat and exactly fitted together, when they are heated they will move some. One way to overcome that is to use binding wire.

I decided not to use binding wire here since the brass wire was smaller and I thought I could work with it while soldering to push it back down with my solder pic or tweezers where I needed to.

I use Handy Flux when soldering brass, bronze, and copper. It stands up to the heat and is easy to apply. I do however thin mine down by using distilled water. Never ever use tap water or any other kind of water. It will have minerals in it that will interfere with the soldering process.

I dip my pieces in and then use the brush to take excess off. You will want to completely cover your pieces as a barrier flux as well as to make the solder flow.

When sweat soldering you will want to place and melt the solder on to one piece or the other before joining the two pieces together.

The obvious choice here was to apply the solder to the wire. I used brass solder that I clipped into small pieces into a small glass bowl. I them used a small paintbrush with some Handy Flux to coat the solder and then placed them with the brush onto my solder block.

I then heated each small piece until it rolled into a ball and used my solder pic to pick it up and place it on the wire. I heated it until it flowed. I repeated this process until I had covered the area I needed to attach it to the strip.

I then turned the wire over and placed it onto the sheet where I wanted it to be.

I heated around the wire on the sheet to heat the sheet first. It being the larger piece takes longer to heat and by the time it was up to temp, the wire was also hot. I started in one area and focused the torch on the side of the wire until I could see the solder flow.

As I mentioned before the wire did move and began to curl up a bit pulling it up off of the sheet. I pulled my torch away from the soldered portion allowing it to cool just a bit then went back in where there was a gap and heated the wire. Once hot I used my cross lock tweezers to push the soft wire onto the sheet.

That is tricky and on one bracelet did not work as well as I had hoped. So I quenched, pickled, brushed, refluxed and went back at it. Before refluxing I took the piece and my steel block and hammered the pieces flush with each other again.

After finishing the soldering you will want to pickle and use whatever method of finishing you choose. I prefer to use the 3M discs with my flex-shaft. I started with the yellow, then to blue then to pale green.

You will do this again when completely done so it is up to you if you do all three discs at this point or just the yellow.

Now to hammer into a bangle. I placed my bangle mandrel into my vise and using a heavy synthetic hammer so as not to leave marks, I hammered the bracelet into a round shape.

When I had the bracelet round but not to the final size, I used my hands to gently push it further together overlapping the second wire end over the strip. I placed the bracelet back on the mandrel to check my size and to further press it together.

Once I had the size I wanted I soldered the second end to the sheet as before. You will want to place solder onto this second end before forming the bangle. My second end did not overlap as much as the first but I was perfectly happy with that as I like this type of bracelet to be asymmetrical

Once pickled and cleaned again I put it back on the mandrel to round it up and to work harden the piece with the synthetic mallet. Heat softens the metal and then pressure such as hammering will work harden it. I want it to stay round so it needed to be hard. I have a synthetic weighted mallet that I bought at a hardware store that I use for this purpose.

I then finished it with all stages of sanding discs and then used polishing cloths to give it a high shine. You could choose to put a patina on your bracelet and I am sure when finishing the other two I will put two different patina's on them to have a variety of pieces.

And the finished piece.

Are YOU interested in learning to design and make your own jewelry? We offer in studio one on one classes. CLICK HERE to learn more!

Visit my website

www.NancyJacksonDesigns.com

LIKE me on Facebook

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Follow me on Instagram

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or send me an email

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Brooch Bouquet

2015-06-12T17:30:00.004-05:00

Recently my daughter got remarried. But this was her very first wedding. Having been a florist for a very long time before doing handmade jewelry I made her a brooch bouquet from my mother and grandmothers brooches and earrings.

It turned out just like she wanted. She wanted more flowers than you see in some and she only wanted clear with silver and gold to make it more neutral.

Well here is the finished product!!

Here is a picture of the back. The little blue arrow is something blue. The hanging piece is a necklace that she did not want cut up. Then there was a sequined choker that I wrapped around the ribbon covered handle. She also wanted it this way.

Then I did a ribbon "fluff" to cover the base of the holder.

Just wanted to share and hope you enjoy!!

UPDATE: I just finished another completely different brooch bouquet for my son's fiance. Click here to see it!!

Are YOU interested in learning to design and make your own jewelry? We offer in studio one on one classes. CLICK HERE to learn more!

Visit my website

www.NancyJacksonDesigns.com

LIKE me on Facebook

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Follow me on Instagram

@najackson

Follow me on Twitter

@NAJackson

Join me on Google+

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or send me an email

NJDesigns@cox.net

Elizabeth

2014-02-16T11:11:00.000-06:00

Last fall I wrote a blog regarding why Swarovski was considered world wide to be the best in Czech crystal.

Today I wanted to share with you one of my favorite sets of Bridal or Formal Wear jewelry! The Elizabeth set. It is done entirely with Swarovski pearls and Swarovski crystals.

The Elizabeth necklace is perfect for a bridesmaid or the bride herself. Elegant and understated yet stunningly beautiful! A piece that will be cherished for years to come.

This piece is made from strictly Swarovski pearls that are crafted with skill. They layer mother of pearl flawlessly over a round crystal until they have created a perfectly round and flawless simulated pearl. Using mother of pearl and a crystal at the heart not only simulates the look of real pearls but also the weight. No one but you will know!

The crystal rondelles in between the pearls are also Swarovski! They are without argument the very best in Czech glass crystals. The center piece is also Swarovski and you can see the shine and the way the facets reflect the light.

The clasp is made from a sterling silver chain and a silver metal lobster claps that swivels for each of use. At the end of the chain is a decorative pearl and rondell drop. Sterling silver does have a tendency to tarnish in time so just keep in bag and should you see tarnish just rub gently with the included polishing cloth or use another soft cloth.

The Elizabeth Bracelet is just like the necklace but has a toggle clasp. The focal piece is the same high quality of the one on the necklace but is a small shape and size better suited for a bracelet.

You can see in this close up the brilliance that the precision patented cutting system of Swarovski closely resembles the brilliant luster of a diamond.

The earrings have three pearls and one crystal rondelle. Wouldn't custom coordinated colors look amazing on your bridesmaids? They are a simple complement to the Elizabeth necklace or bracelet, and on their own too! Will also coordinate with our other wedding and formal pieces.

To see more about these items and to check pricing, click here.
To learn why Swarovski is considered world wide to be the very best, click here.

Are YOU interested in learning to design and make your own jewelry? We offer in studio one on one classes. CLICK HERE to learn more!

Visit my website

www.NancyJacksonDesigns.com

LIKE me on Facebook

https://www.facebook.com/NancyJacksonDesigns/

Follow me on Instagram

@najackson

Follow me on Twitter

@NAJackson

Join me on Google+

+Nancy Jackson

or send me an email

NJDesigns@cox.net

Rose

2014-02-15T15:56:00.000-06:00

If you are not familiar with the Dragonfly In Amber Design line of jewelry for Bridal, Prom and Formal Wear then you have been missing out!

Rose is one of our most beautiful necklaces, bracelets and earrings. They are made from genuine cultured and keishi pearls. This set has shades ranging from pink and while to slightly peach. The keishi pearls are a unique twist that adds excitement.

The large focal piece is a solid sterling silver rose. It has dimension and interest from any angle.

The clasp is also sterling silver and their are tiny sterling silver beads sprinkled throughout.

The bracelet has three strands of the cultured and keishi pearls with a sterling silver clasp.

The earrings are simple yet elegant so they only complement not detract from the other pieces.

They are all great pieces for that special day and can be worn for a lifetime thereafter!

For more information on this set and many others click here.

Are YOU interested in learning to design and make your own jewelry? We offer in studio one on one classes. CLICK HERE to learn more!

Visit my website

www.NancyJacksonDesigns.com

LIKE me on Facebook

https://www.facebook.com/NancyJacksonDesigns/

Follow me on Instagram

@najackson

Follow me on Twitter

@NAJackson

Join me on Google+

+Nancy Jackson

or send me an email

NJDesigns@cox.net

Cyber Monday 2013 Deals!!!

2013-11-29T16:12:00.000-06:00

I thought it would be fun to offer up some Cyber Monday deals!! Each one is only for two hours and then it is gone! Many items have limited qualities so get them while you can!!!

Item # 1 - from Monday December 2nd, 2013 from 12 p.m. Midnight to 2 a.m.

Big Twist Pearls Necklace - Regularly $55.00 is on sale now for $20.00

Item # 2 - from Monday December 2nd, 2013 from 1 a.m. to 3 a.m.

Chips N Sticks Boot Bracelet - Regularly $54.56 is now on sale for $15.00

Item # 3 - from Monday December 2nd, 2013 from 2 a.m. to 4 a.m.

Golden Leaf Necklace in Black - Regularly $79.84 is now on sale for $17.50

Item # 4 - from Monday December 2nd, 2013 from 3 a.m. to 5 a.m.

Axtec Stone Boot Bracelet - Regularly $47.50 is now on sale for $19.50

Item # 5 - from Monday December 2nd, 2013 from 4 a.m. to 6 a.m.

Emblem Bracelet in Red or Blue (any charm) - Regularly $48.00 is now on sale for $15.00

Item # 6 - from Monday December 2nd, 2013 from 5 a.m. to 7 a.m.

Falling Leave Boot Bracelet - Regularly $49.96 is now on sale for $19.50

Item # 7 - from Monday December 2nd, 2013 from 6 a.m. to 8 a.m.

First Frost Necklace - Regularly $57.76 is now on sale for $20.00

Item # 8 - from Monday December 2nd, 2013 from 7 a.m. to 9 a.m.

Heartbeat Necklace - Regularly $64.24 is now on sale for $17.50

Item # 9 - from Monday December 2nd, 2013 from 8 a.m. to 10 a.m.

Light in the Dark Boot Bracelet - Regularly $40.88 is now on sale for $15.00

Item # 10 - from Monday December 2nd, 2013 from 9 a.m. to 11 a.m.

Myan Princess Necklace - Regularly $73.02 is now on sale for 17.50

Item # 11 - from Monday December 2nd, 2013 from 10 a.m. to 12 p.m. noon

Jill Earrings - Regularly $25.00 is now on sale for $7.50 (in stock colors only)

Item # 12 - from Monday December 2nd, 2013 from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m.

Golden Garden Necklace - Regularly $111.26 is now on sale for $22.50

Item # 13 - from Monday December 2nd, 2013 from 12 p.m. noon to 2 p.m.

Wooden Flowers Boot Bracelet - Regularly $39.00 is now on sale for $12.50

Item # 14 - from Monday December 2nd, 2013 from 1 p.m. to 3 p.m.

First Frost Bracelet - Regularly $33.04 is now on sale for $12.50

Item # 15 - from Monday December 2nd, 2013 from 2 p.m. to 4 p.m.

Myan Princess Bracelet - Regularly $67.24 is now on sale for $15.00

Item # 16 - from Monday December 2nd, 2013 from 3 p.m. to 5 p.m.

Pink Paradise Boot Bracelet - Regularly $38.52 is now on sale for $12.50

Item # 17 - from Monday December 2nd, 2013 from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m.

Golden Buttons Boot Bracelet - Regularly $39.50 is now on sale for $15.00

Item # 18 - from Monday December 2nd, 2013 from 5 p.m. to 7 p.m.

Heartbeat Bracelet - Regularly $49.76 is now on sale for $17.50

Item # 19 - from Monday December 2nd, 2013 from 6 p.m. to 8 p.m.

Turquoise Leaf Drop Boot Bracelet - Regularly $59.00 is now on sale for $22.50

Item # 20 - from Monday December 2nd, 2013 from 7 p.m. to 9 p.m.

Golden Leaf Bracelet in Black - Regularly 39.54 is now on sale for $7.50

Item # 21 - from Monday December 2nd, 2013 from 8 p.m. to 10 p.m.

Rusty Pipe Boot Bracelet - Regularly $48.24 is now on sale for $17.50

Item # 22 - from Monday December 2nd, 2013 from 9 p.m. to 11 p.m.

Hearts N Flowers Bracelet - Regularly $57.34 is now on sale for $22.50

Item # 23 - from Monday December 2nd, 2013 from 10 p.m. to 12 a.m. midnight

ANY Boot Bracelet - 75% off of 1 Boot Bracelet of your choice!

use CODE Boot50Bracelet at checkout to received discount.

Visit our website

www.DragonflyInAmberDesigns.com

or send me an email

Designer@dragonflyinamberdesigns.com

Swarovski – Yes they are the very best!

2013-11-22T14:48:00.001-06:00

In my designs you will see that I use a variety of materials and crystals. I attempt to be very careful in describing my pieces to allow you, the consumer know what types of products you are buying.

Often I use genuine Swarovski Elements in my designs. Many of my pieces can be made with either Swarovski Elements (crystals and pearls) or of a lesser grade product.

I am very careful when shopping for Swarovski Elements to use in my designs. I have found many times on auction sites and many international sites that a product will be advertised as Swarovski crystals when in fact they are not. The machinery that Swarovski uses is patented and therefore unmatched worldwide.

I believe that it is similar to the phenomenon of Kleenex where a brand name was interchanged for a type of product. You may buy Puffs but the habit is to call them Kleenexes.

I want to encourage those of you out there who do shop for crystals and beads online to verify that you are buying a genuine product. I’ve seen artists design pieces and then sell them as Swarovski, believing that the components they have used are Swarovski, but then price them way below what the components would have cost them wholesale.

If you buy components or pieces which are said to be Swarovski but are very inexpensive you should reconsider. Swarovski is not inexpensive, but it is well worth the cost. That is why I buy from a reputable dealer and make sure that I am buying the genuine article, so that you to can be sure of getting the genuine item.

Many times at shows I am asked what the difference is. Guests to my booths are very complementary in regards to all my designs, but I love to take the opportunity to explain to them the difference.

Most importantly it is the quality. You will get sparkle and shine with almost any crystal, but with Swarovski the difference is easily evident when you look closely. The workmanship of the cut is perfect. All facets are exactly as they should be lining up corner to corner. This is what makes the brilliant fire in a Swarovski.

Not only the cut, but the actual material the gems are hewn from is a special family formula for the world’s finest lead crystal.

The company’s founder Daniel Swarovski at the age of 21 began a nine year journey developing a machine to cut crystals with exacting precision. The exact formula and process remain a family secret, thus, Swarovski crystals remain the most prized crystals on the market.

The AB (aurora borealis) process was originally developed by Swarovski, who applied a very thin iridescent coating to rhinestones to make them display colorful flashes when the stones are turned in the light. The coating they use is their own patent again and you will never see swirls on the surface as you will often see in most imitation Swarovski gems.

Swarovski pearls are created by using a Swarovski crystal at the center rather than a plastic bead. The crystal base is what sets these simulated pearls apart from others, and because each pearl is created by using a Swarovski crystal it is easy to attain the perfect size and weight.

Each crystal is layered with several coats of mother of pearl and the completed Swarovski pearls exhibit a gorgeous luminous appearance. They are considered to be the best simulated pearl you can find. Swarovski offers a wide range of colors to meet the needs of all occasions.

Even though I love the colors of the basic glass pearls, there is no mistaking the rich depth of color and feel of Swarovski. The quality is evident even while constructing the pieces and I see the uniformity, color and radiance to be unsurpassed.

Are YOU interested in learning to design and make your own jewelry? We offer in studio one on one classes. CLICK HERE to learn more!

Visit my website

www.NancyJacksonDesigns.com

LIKE me on Facebook

https://www.facebook.com/NancyJacksonDesigns/

Follow me on Instagram

@najackson

Follow me on Twitter

@NAJackson

Join me on Google+

+Nancy Jackson

or send me an email

NJDesigns@cox.net

Silver & Gunmetal Boot Jewelry Designs

2013-04-18T16:07:00.000-05:00

Dragonfly In Amber Designs has been in business for about 5 years now. Two years ago I wrote a blog The Newest in Boot Jewelry Designs. It has received more hits than any blog I've ever posted! Because this post is almost 3 years old I decided that it was time to post an update as of April 18, 2013!

My Darling Boot Bracelet

This is one of the most beautiful boot bracelets I've ever designed. As good as the photo is, it just cannot convey the depth of the colors and sparkle that this boot bracelet has. There are several colors of deep blues and green intermingled with gold and silver tones.

It has gunmetal accents that surround this boot bracelet with Czech crystals in blue, green and gold. It has two strands strung. One with large Czech crystals and one with gunmetal beads and crystal drops. There is also large dark smokey pearls.

The focal piece is a gunmetal floral wreath with a faceted Czech crystal drop. This is one of the most elegant boot bracelets that I have created. I believe it would be great for those occasions where you wear a nice dress with your boots. Maybe even a wedding! It fastens with a lobster clasp and chain and fits both fashion boots and cowboy boots.

Geared Up! Boot Bracelet

This may not just be for those Steampunk fans our there. If you look close between the gear beads you will see Czech Cathedral beads to add style and bling. Cathedral beads are Czech crystals faceted and then silver plated on each end. They are so beautiful and elegant, but fit right in with these silver gear beads. It closes with a lobster clasp and chain and fits both fashion and cowboy boots.

Frosty Moss Boot Bracelet

There is nothing quite like a boot bracelet with real gemstones! Here beautiful green agate ovals with veins of black are quite stunning. But the true beauties are the fire dyed agate beads with their faceted shine and deep colors. Each one is unique and engaging. The silver colored beads and accents complete this boot bracelet. It closes with a lobster clasp and chain. It is adjustable for almost any size boot.

Elegant Feather Boot Bracelet

Another great boot bracelet done in real gemstones. Bloodstone jasper and genuine garnet beads adorn this elegant boot bracelet. There are also two antique silver filigree beads and olive green Czech crystals with a rhinestone studded antique silver feather focal piece. Once again, the beauty of this boot bracelet can only be appreciated as you hold it and experience it's beauty first hand. It closes with a lobster clasp and chain. It is adjustable for almost any size boot.

Blue Danube Boot Bracelet

Gunmetal medallion with floral cameo in dark blue. The blues in this boot bracelet are almost a grey color and could be worn with so many other colors. The large beads are dyed oyster shill. The smaller beads are fire dyed agate with rich deep colors and fiery facets. Also there are gunmetal square beads with an intricate swirl design. It closes with a lobster clasp and chain.

These are just a few of the newer silver and gunmetal styles of out Boot Jewelery. To see these and many more designs, click here.

Visit our website

www.DragonflyInAmberDesigns.com

or send me an email

Designer@dragonflyinamberdesigns.com

Wedding Jewelry - Katie

2013-04-10T04:30:00.000-05:00

My newest Wedding Jewelry design - the Katie. This necklace comes in both a 3 strand and a 5 strand twist.

The 3 strand that is shown is done in 4mm champagne pearls and 8mm white pearls with Czech glass spacers on each side of the 8mm pearls.

This is the Katie 3 strand necklace. The 3 strands are collected in the back with a flat 3 strand cone and then is connected by a silver colored toggle.

This necklace would be equally good for the bride or any other member of the wedding party including the mother of the bride or groom.

Here is the Katie 3 strand bracelet.

This design is so close to the Kenley that rather than create a whole new earring for this set, I suggest you use the Kenley earrings.

This set is done with champagne pearls 4mm pearls and white 8mm pearls. This set, as with all our Wedding Jewelry can be done in any solid color or color combination. You may cutomize to match the color of your bridesmaids dresses.

The next set of pictures shows the Katie 5 strand Wedding Jewelry. Here is the Katie 5 strand necklace.

This necklace is done with a 5 strand flat cone which collects all the strands before the clasp. I bought these cones several years ago and sadly, the only ones that I have are on this necklace and its matching bracelet. So, should you purchase this particular 5 strand necklace and bracelet then I will have to redesign using a different cone. Your opportunity to purchase a one of a kind necklace and bracelet set!

Here is the Katie 5 strand bracelet.

Again I suggest ordering the Kenley earrings to match.

The pictures shown above are done in the glass pearls with Czech crystals, but all of our Wedding Jewelry designs can also be done in Swarovski pearls and Swarovski crystal spacers.

Here is a color chart, but new colors come out often and I'll be adding those colors as they come available.

To shop for this Wedding Jewelry set click here!

Visit our website

www.DragonflyInAmberDesigns.com

or send me an email

Designer@dragonflyinamberdesigns.com

Wedding Jewelry

2013-04-09T04:40:00.000-05:00

Introducing Our New Line of

Wedding Jewelry

Dragonfly In Amber Designs has been knows for years for our Boot Jewelry. But this year we've added something new - Wedding Jewelry.

Each piece of our wedding jewlery is made by hand. Currently we have two lines of wedding jewelry, one is made with glass pearls and Czech glass crystal spacers.

Additionally we have the same styles in genuine Swarovski pearls and crystal spacers for the more discriminating brides. You must be careful when shopping for Swarovski. Many foreign suppliers will tell you that the product you are buying is Swarovski when in fact it is not. To ensure that you are getting the genuine product you must by from a reputable retailer who verifies that what they are buying is truly Swarovski.

Right now I have six basic styles with more to come. Each design can come in either Glass Pearls or Swarovski Pearls. Their are 44 colors of Swarovski pearls and 28 colors of the glass pearls. Plus you may combine any colors to reflect your own unique bridal style!

This first set is the Kenley. It is a diantier set with 4mm pearls set in between a sequence of 8mm pearls and crystal spacers. The colors show in the photo are of all white, true black or mystic black and champagne.

This example of the Kenley is done with champagne 4mm pearls and cream 8mm pearls. The subtle difference in shades makes this bridal necklace stand out!

Here is another great design, the Misty. It is all done in 8mm pearls. The crystal spacers encase a pearl with 3 pearls on each side. This necklace glitters like the sun and is great done in multiple colors. With all the color selections this one would be great to match you your bridesmaids dresses!!

These are just a few of the many colors!

This next necklace is the Britney named for my oldest grandaughter. I first made this necklace for her 16th birthday to wear at her formal Sweet Sixteen Party. When designing the necklace I knew I would be adding this to the Wedding Jewelry line one day so I was very thoughtful about the placement of the pearls and spacers.

It is made from 4mm pearls and Swarovski spacers. This is a limited edition set because I have a limited supply of the spacers and cannot order more. When I have sold out of them this design will be redesigned.

The top row of pearls has 7 pearls between each spacer. Seven is the number of completion or the end. The bottom row of pearls has 8 pearls between each spacer. Eight is the number for new beginnings. I thought this was a true representation of a bride on her wedding day, a old life ending and a new life beginning.

Now for something a little bolder, the Lacey. This seems to be the most popular design. It is pure simple elegance! It is made from 8mm pearls and one 16mm pearl. On each side is a spacer with Czech crystles. You may order this style in the Swarovski pearls, but they do not make a spacer like this one so I will substitue with the Czech crystal spacer. It will have a sterling silver clasp though as do all the Swarovski necklaces.

Next is the Linda. It has 8mm pearls with periodic 16mm pearls surrounded by crystal spacers. A little bit bolder for that daring bride or for the mother of the bride.

The next necklace, the Jill was one of my first wedding jewelry designs. I made it last December and sold 3 the first day. One mother of the bride bought the entire set, necklace, bracelet and earrings.

This was designed from my Radiance set and shortened. Instead of one strand though I did it in three strands. Simply gorgeous!! And why not wear it to the office with your favorite suite?

The last necklace design is the Katie and comes in both the 3 strand and the five strand. The 3 strand below shows the color combination of champagne 4mm pearls and 8mm white pearls with Czech crystal spacers on each side of the 8mm pearls. This is great for a bride or any one of the wedding party. Another great choice for a day at the office too!

This is the Katie 5 strand show with white 4mm pearls and silver 8mm pearls. What mother of the bride would not love to wear this on that special day?

To see the bracelets and earrings for each design and to see other items in our Wedding Jewelry line, please visit our website!

I would love to have your comments. What would you like to see in our wedding jewelry line?

Visit our website

www.DragonflyInAmberDesigns.com

or send me an email

Designer@dragonflyinamberdesigns.com

Dragonfly In Amber Designs has a new look!

2013-04-08T14:59:00.000-05:00

Dragonfly In Amber Designs

has a new look!!

I recently commissioned Angela Westerman with Organic Abstracts to create a new painting that would become the new look for Dragonfly In Amber Designs.

Angela and I met several years ago when I managed a staffing agency and was helping a local company hire a graphic designer. Angela was one of several applicants, but when she opened her portfolio I knew that I had seen the work of a true artist!

Her work had me speechless! Every image was detailed and flawless. Regardless of the media each piece told a story and your thoughts were not on the media, but the story and the feelings and emotions that the image provoked within you.

That first meeting was about 7 years ago. And yes, she did get the job. After many years of working at that job she loved, her artists heart cried out and she left to become a full time artist. Her work has evolved since then, getting richer and fuller with each brush stroke.

The piece I had commissioned for DIAD is not just a painting. This is a 3-dimensional work of art on a wooden board. She used paint but also other sculpting mediums to build out not just a painting, but a sculpture as well.

I couldn't be more pleased with this beautiful work of art that now hangs in my living room, but beyond that, the graphics she has created for me for Dragonfly In Amber Designs based on this painting are beautiful.

Angela has been with me from the beginning. She created my logo and all the graphics for the website and other graphics for ads, etc. She wears DIAD jewelry because she shares the same love for DIAD jewelry as I do for her art. He intimate knowledge of DIAD is why this piece is Dragonfly In Amber Designs.

Requisition of Enlightenment

by Angela Westerman

To contact Angela for your own work of art or to see her gallery of completed paintings, you may contact her here:

AK Westerman

http://www.akorganicabstracts.com/

www.Facebook.com/AkOrganicAbstracts

Visit our website www.DragonflyInAmberDesigns.com
or send me an
email Designer@dragonflyinamberdesigns.com

What's On My Workbench?

2011-05-01T11:51:00.003-05:00

We have new winners and ALL the prizes should be going out tomorrow!! Everyone who didn’t win first prize won a pair of earrings!!! When you email me to enter a contest, be sure and send me your address so that I can have it to send you your prize.

The grand prize winner of the last contest is in this post somewhere along with a new contest.

But for now, let’s get back to the blog – what’s on my workbench right now?

This is now done and totally reconfigured. It is genuine amethyst briolettes, sterling silver beads and spacers. There are also tanzanite Swarovski crystals and clear Swarovski aurora borealis crystals.

This is a good opportunity to talk about how I design a piece. You will notice that there is a short wire strand with a round toggle end that the beads are strung on. This is not permanent, but only to see what the pattern will look like.

I have used the design boards, but these small flannel panels that keep the beads from rolling help me lay the pattern out. Then I use an old short piece of wire to ‘try’ out my design on. No matter how well you lay out your piece on the mat it never looks the same, or is spaced the same as it is once it is wired.

A short piece of wire is easy to string small portions on to see that they will indeed look and hang correctly. I left this lying on my workbench for a long time before finishing it. I moved it around considerably before I decided on the final design.

Here is the finished product.

Then on my other workbench I have a ton of new stones and beads that I purchased at a gem show a couple of months ago.

Again I have started this on two pieces of scrap wire just to get a feel for how it will look. The larger stones are faceted fire dyed agate. They are so beautiful! They have purple and teal colors in all shades running through them.

They are capped with sterling silver bead caps with pale green Swarovski crystal beads in between. The large focal piece is completely sterling silver. I haven't chosen a clasp yet, but it will also be sterling silver.

Here are some other stones lying on my bench. I like to leave them out to inspire creative ideas. Plus they are new and I can’t wait to get my hands on them!!

There are more fire dyed agate in lots of different colors, regular agate in various colors and some beautiful new cultured pearls. The dark red round stones in the center are genuine garnet beads.

These were my most expensive purchase of the day. They are kesha pearls and are oh so beautiful. See the tiny little bag of green ones? See the $35 marking on the bag? Yes that is what I paid for them! But they are worth it!!! I can’t wait to do something grand with them and show you!

Here are more agate beads in various colors, treatments and styles. The blue are faceted agates polished that look almost like crystal. The tribal looking beads are also agate and have the designs bunished in with heat. There are clear areas that are almost translucent. Then there are various brown and white mottled agate beads that are so unique and pretty.

Another overview of the work table.

I guess this is as good a time as any to tell you the grand prize winner of the last give-a-way was Kit Davis from The Woodlands, TX. Everyone else will be receiving a pair of earrings. I am making the earrings new and unique for the give-a-ways so they are like nothing you have ever seen on the website before. And if you entered more than one contest, you will receive more than one prize! So enter as many contests as you want.

Now for this blogs give-a-way…

Can you email me and tell me why I have clear fingernail polish on my workbench and what I use it for?

Remember – email me. You don’t want to give the answer away to everyone on FB or in the comment section! Send me your address when you send me your answer so I’ll have it to send your prize.

Yeah! I just love give-a-ways!!!

Oh, what will the grand prize winner get this time? How about this great bracelet and a matching pair of earrings?

I think you will like it! It has clear and silver lampwork beads, dark silver/gray faceted crystals and clear crystals. Its neutral color will go with so many things!

I look forward to your replies. Email me at Designer@DragonflyInAmberDesigns.com

Visit our website
http://www.dragonflyinamberdesigns.com/
or send me an email
Designer@dragonflyinamberdesigns.com

Tools

2011-04-05T12:19:00.003-05:00

From My Workroom to My Tools

I wrote a week ago about my workroom and gave you an overview of how organized I had to be. I want to break that down a bit and show you some of my tools I use and other storage tricks. (PS the winner of the last give-a-way in in this post somewhere)

This is a turntable type storage container. It is made of wood and has several different compartments. I started out using it and just putting my tools down in the recesses, but then I was having to pull them out and put them back in until I found the one I wanted. This is because so many of them have the same type handles and it was hard to tell which one was which. Also, my smaller ones would get lost in the deep parts and I would have to dig them out. So, I started draping them on the dividers of the recesses.

This makes it very easy to see all the tools and actually is easier to keep them together by how I use them.

I am all the time reading articles in my jewelry magazines about the newest tools and different quality tools that are guaranteed to last a thousand years, etc. I have drooled over those tools and will probably someday lay down the dough to get some really expensive tools just to see if they are all that and a sack of taters too. I mean they have to be, don't they??

Well, let me show you my very first set of tools. I bought these on that long ago trip to Santa Fe which you can read about on my web site. They came in a little set and were really, no I mean REALLY cheep!!! I wasn't sure where this was all taking me and I didn't want to spend a ton of money, except for beads, if I wasn't going to do this.

These are really small. They fit in the palm of my hand. There is a flat nose pliers, a chain nose pliers and a round nose pliers.

Let me just say that still today these are my favorites. I have bought many more tools, as you can see, but I still continue to reach for these. Why? Well because they are so small. Because they fit in the palm of my hand they almost feel like an extension of my own hand. Also, when I need to use my fingers and go back and forth, they tuck in my palm and then I can quickly pop them right back out to use again.

Larger set of pliers. I do use these more and more and for holding something that is really hard to hold and you need strength, these are the best!!

These are just plane pliers bought at a hardware store. This close up view shows the size in relation to my hand but do you also see the white on the tongs? That is a coating that you can buy in a jar and dip the tools into. Once dry, it will have a mar resistant surface. This is not permanent though and will wear off. I use the red handled plyers so much I can't keep the white stuff on there. Or maybe I just don't want to take the time to re-coat them. But - this stuff is really really good.

These are crimp pliers and I have three sizes even though I rarely use any but the middle size. The Micro crimpers will crimp tubes about 1mm and the larger Mighty crimpers will crimp up to 2.5 or 3mm. I do use the mighty crimpers for other things besides crimping. They are great to use for holding round items in their rounded indention.

Since we are here talking about crimp tubes I will show you how mine are organized. I use small compartment storage containers with rounded bottoms. That makes it easier to fish out those tiny items. This container also has a locking mechanism that you must push to open any of the compartments. Trust me on this - it is well worth it.

I can tend to get lazy about shutting the little lids on these things and one day I dumped the entire thing in the floor. I had several lids open and jump rings and crimps and crimp covers as well as wire guards were everywhere in the carpet. Yes, carpet!!

My grandson Braxton were on our hands and knees for a very long time digging them all out. They are way to expensive to just vacuum up and get on with it. I honestly think we recovered almost all of them. So, buy the right kind of container, then use it and shut the silly lids!! Geezzz! I learned my lesson.

The very first compartment with no number contains wire guards, the second with the 1 is 1mm crimps and so forth to the 3 for 3mm crimps.

Another view of the container with the lids closed. You will notice little white labels. I printed these from my jewelry software and they have ID#s. When I make an item like the Amethyst Bracelet and Earrings, which was won by NINA126, I can use my note pad and write down how many of that number item I used in the piece.

To store these boxes I use an old document shelf. You can still get these at an office supply house. I used to sort resumes on this when I worked as a Pharmaceutical Sales Recruiter. I handled several cities and states and would keep resumes organized on these shelves. They are perfect for the plastic boxes that hold my findings now. I just love to re-purpose things.

But back to the tools now...

Various types of tools. The one on the far left is a Bail maker. It has two round tongs and you can use them to wrap wire around or thin sheets of metal. The next is a pair of silicone plyers. These will not mar the surface of metal or beads. The next is just a larger pair of round nose plyers. The tongs on these are larger in circumference than the small red handled ones. They are good to use when I need to make a larger ring.

These are all things I cut with. Wire cutters in various types and of course scissors.

The one problem I have with my tools is that I have 2 work tables and the tool I always seem to need in at the 'other' table!! LOL!! I hope to someday have two of the turntable containers and two complete sets of everything! Well, a girl can dream, right?

Ok, so if you were paying attention you found out that NINA126 won the last give-a-way. ALL the other entrants will receive a prize though! How about a pair of earrings for EACH of you???

Well how about ANOTHER give-a-way??? Take a look at this...

Yet another Amethyst Mother of Pearl bracelet and earring set with silver colored beads. Sorry for the bad pic. It is the same MOP as I used in the last bracelet.

EMAIL me at Designer@DragonflyInAmberDesigns.com and tell me what company I worked for when I recruited Pharmaceutical Sales Reps. What does this have to do with anything? Did you read about this in the blog above or did you skip right to the bottom? He He He...

This may take a little research but you might could find it on my FB profile or on our Real Estate website under about me, or.... you be creative. It is out there all over, even on LinkedIn.

I promise it is worth it. I may just have gifts for all entrants who guess it right, even if your name isn't drawn for the grand prize! Well, you know how I am.. : )

Visit our website
www.DragonflyInAmberDesigns.com
or send me an email
Designer@dragonflyinamberdesigns.com

My Workroom

2011-03-23T12:59:00.002-05:00

This post has been getting a ton of hits. However since we moved in 2012 and I have a new studio I felt I needed to do a new blog featuring it!! So to see it, click HERE!

I mentioned some time ago that I would try to put some tips and tricks on my blog. Well, then I got really busy selling Real Estate and am just now getting back around to doing it.

I thought that first of all I needed to show you my workroom. I think that is one of the biggest tips I can share with you, from the very beginning, is to get organized.

When I first started though, I could keep everything I owned in regards to beads in a little gift bag. Then I graduated to the plastic crate you see sitting on the bottom shelf of the black shelves.

Then I cleaned out the scrapbooking/card making closet I had organized in the spare bedroom and made it my bead work space. It was great for hobbies because a folding table fits perfect in there as does most of your supplies.

You will still see tons of scrapbooking supplies in my closet as well as the jewelry supplies. I won’t mention that the other closet on the other side of the room is completely filled with scrapbooking things. Shhhh…

The closet was a wonderful place and still is for hobbies. The thing I liked about it the best is that with my closet I can push the chair up and close the doors and my bedroom is (was) back to being a guest bedroom. Even though my jewelry design has outgrown the closet, it is still very easy to take down the second work table and slide it under the bed and have guests over, if they don’t mind the bead shelves and finishing table still being in there.

Well when a hobbie turns into a business, and a very successful one I might add, you grow and you grow and you grow. As the business grew, my organization kept changing. The little bins I now keep just tiny silver findings in used to keep most of my beads.

But one thing I cannot stress enough is that whether it is a small hobby or a large endeavor, you must develop an organization system and stay that way.

I also use tons of little plastic bags to put my beads in. I mark on each one where I got it and other pertinent information. I now have a jewelry design program where I inventory all of the pieces of findings and beads I put into my designs and then it helps me calculate the price once of an item once it is made. Then it keeps inventory of the jewelry pieces I’ve made and have on hand.

I was surprised when I got that program, that by the time I paid for the designer bags, labels, plastic bags, tools, and on and on and on, I wasn’t really making anything. I am amazed all the time when I look on the internet at beautiful designs and the designers are selling their items so inexpensive. I know that they are not being paid for their time, because I know what the materials cost. Not to mention the time it takes to do photos and post on the websites.

Well here is my workroom. Enjoy!

This is just the first of several blogs about my workshop and tips and tricks. So keep coming back!!

OH by the way... I feel like giving something away. If you will send me an email to Designer@DragonflyInAmberDesigns.com and tell my why on earth I would have a pasta maker in my jewelry work room, I will put your name in a drawing for this...

Amethyst Mother Of Pearl disc and purple swirled lampwork beads.

DON'T post on FB or on blog! If you know the answer, don't give it away! When I post the next blog on tips and tricks I'll post the name of the winner!!

Visit our website
http://www.dragonflyinamberdesigns.com/
or send me an email
Designer@dragonflyinamberdesigns.com

Sassy Lady Necklaces

2011-02-10T16:23:00.001-06:00

I don't usually do trendy, since China does it so well, but I had these 5 great crosses and wanted to do something that would sustain their bold presence.

So I bought a bunch of great nuggets, took out a bunch of other great beads and crystals I already had, dumped them in a tray and just started grabbing. Pretty much whatever order they came out, is the order they went on the strand. I did do a little tweeking to get the balancing act right, but not too much!!

There are only these four necklaces, one of each. After they are gone I will not be making any more.

Valentine's Day Special through 2/15/2011 Only!

25% off, click here.

Jewelry you will want to go buy clothes for!

Visit our website
http://www.dragonflyinamberdesigns.com/
or send me an email
Designer@dragonflyinamberdesigns.com

Stones Earrings

2011-02-10T14:23:00.000-06:00

Another great gift item just in time for Valentine's Day! Not everyone's favorite color is red, like me! So if you are looking for that special gift for that special person, why not a pair of earrings she will reach for time and time again?

These have a little bit longer drop than usual. Stacked on the pin are brown ceramic bicones and turquoise rondelles with silver colored spacer beads. At the very bottom is a large creamy white magnesite nugget with 3 tiny silver leaves dangle from below.

This too is a one of a kind and I will not be making any more just like this one!

Valentine's Day Special through 2/15/2011 only!

Click here to view

Jewelry you will want to go buy clothes for!

Visit our website
http://www.dragonflyinamberdesigns.com/
or send me an email
Designer@dragonflyinamberdesigns.com

Bookmarks!!

2011-02-10T13:56:00.001-06:00

How about something REALLY different for Dragonfly In Amber Designs??? Bookmarks!

These were so fun to make, but I ONLY made 1 of each!

The are great for almost any size book. They have deep red lampwork heart beads that are accented with tiny white pearls. A second chain dangles with its own small silver charm.

Need a gift for that special friend? This is it!!

Valentine's Day Special through 2/15/2011 only!

24% off

To view, click here.

Jewelry you will want to go buy ~~clothes~~ books for!

Visit our website
http://www.dragonflyinamberdesigns.com/
or send me an email
Designer@dragonflyinamberdesigns.com

Hearts Galore Necklace

2011-02-10T12:01:00.000-06:00

What a fun necklace! Two different kinds of shiny silver chain and lots of hearts.

The focal piece of this necklace is made from several lengths of small silver plated chain. From each chain are different heart charms and Czech glass crystals in deep red. These particular crystals are called Cathedral beads because of their unique shape and design.

The two main pieces are the large deep red lampwork heart bead and the large intricately carved silver plated heart. This necklace is a one of a kind and I won't be making another one just like this.

Very fun to wear, even long after Valentine's Day is over!!

Valentine Special through 2/15/2011 only!

25% off

To learn more about this necklace, click here.

Jewelry you will want to go buy clothes for!!

Visit our website
http://www.dragonflyinamberdesigns.com/
or send me an email
Designer@dragonflyinamberdesigns.com