Every closet has a story to tell, and Katie and I love the stories behind all of our pieces. It's bittersweet when we find exceptional wardrobes that we know were carefully chosen by interesting women who are no longer with us. We can even sometimes feel the very energy of the women who filled those closets and we always want to know more about them.

The same is true of designers.  We get attached to them, study their lives, and even start to believe we somehow know those incredibly talented men and women who created the vast collection we have acquired.  That's an illusion, of course, but when you have done this for many years and you recognize the hook and eye used by one designer, the content label used by another, and the signature seams by another, you start to feel like you are in on an intimate, beautiful secret.

Designer France Andrevie photograph by Antonio Guccioni

It always makes us sad to see a designer fall off of the map and no longer be talked about, given museum exhibitions or mentioned in reference to their contributions.  Many talented and well respected designers disappear from fashion school textbooks and become nothing more than a small footnote in design history.  Clare Potter, Harry Collins and Sylvia Peddlar are just a few of the designers who have been largely ignored by modern day fashion historians.

France Andrevie two piece dress circa 1982

Recently, we were absolutely thrilled to find a rare dress designed by the incomparable France Andrevie.

In 1978, the New York magazine called Andrevie, along with Claude Montana and Thierry Mugler, "among the most experimental members of the fashion world."  Naturally, we wanted to tell you all about her and assumed the internet would be filled with volumes of information.  We were shocked at how wrong we were. 

But, thanks to the amazing photographs shot by Paul Van Riel available on the Europeana Website, old newspaper articles, the half a hand full of articles available online, and from interviewing a few kind people who knew her, we are hoping you can start to appreciate the unique vision that France Andrevie brought to the fashion world.

In 1980, The San Francisco Examiner called Andrevie the "princess of new wave fashion" and in 1981, "one of the fashion world's most militant feminists." 

The writer Jean-Pierre Fily described her as "a lioness in the world of ready-to-wear." 

Designer France Andrevie by Antonio Guccioni

So who was she? France Andrevie was originally from Belgium and she started her own line of clothing there called, Laurent Vicci, a name she invented.  She then moved to Paris in 1976 to start over again as she was approaching 30, this time, using her own name.  

She would later say that she had no support from the French, the banks, or the journalists.   She claimed that her first real support came from the Japanese and then the Americans.

Andrevie's favorite designers were Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garcons, Claude Montana, Thierry Mugler and French designer Anne Marie Beretta (another somewhat forgotten name).

Known as a passionate designer who would work all night, often in silence, she was driven to achieve. She lived in hotels, surrounded by her cats and dedicated her life to her craft.

The New York Times described Andrevie as a workaholic who was "her own business manager, accountant, designer and, if need be, shipping clerk."

The master of layering, France Andrevie was layering different patterns, textures and color ways and creating a high fashioned "immigrant" look long before Gucci. 

France Andrevie with her entourage of runway assistants & MUAH professionals

Successful make-up artist, Linda Mason, created many of the most memorable runway looks for France Andrevie models.

"She was fabulous, I loved her clothes, very exciting to work with as she had a strong vision, so strong that you could intuitively pick up on it. She wouldn't second guess your ideas she would just let you create what you felt for her." Linda Mason

Manfred Millicent, textile designer, worked for the first time in fashion with France Andrevie.  She remembers her as being very advanced for the time, or a "visionary."

Backstage at France Andrevie Show Photograph by Paul Van Riel 1980

Photographer  Paul Van Riel remembers the Andrevie runway shows as having  colorful, graphic clothing that was always more interesting that the more famous labels at the time.  She even had a live band on stage with percussion instruments for one of her shows!

Perhaps my favorite remembrances of France Andrevie came from her dear friend Coco, who at first echoed the other voices who said it was hard for her to stop working and that she was a warrior and a thinker, who spent all day and all night thinking of new looks.  But then she humanized her in a genuinely connected way,  "..we were soul sisters. She had an amazing smile and an intense, beautiful look in her eyes."  I can see that intensity about which she speaks in the scarce images of Andrevie available.

It should come as no surprise that France Andrevie's favorite writer was Colette, 'a vanguard' as she called her, 'outside the norms.'  

There were famous designers who actually decided to become designers after being inspired by one of her several avant garde runway shows. 

''What I have always wanted is a mix of masculine and feminine clothes, I love the simplicity of what men wear and I've tried to reinterpret it in a feminine way, but without the froufrou that the word 'feminine' usually implies.'' France Andrevie

France Andrevie died of a heart attack in her workshop in 1984 at the young age of 38.  She was survived by her husband and 6 month old son.  The obituaries were brief and not very descriptive.  Not, in my opinion, an appropriate legacy for such a groundbreaking designer.

Back to that dress we acquired, I am happy to say that a museum in Belgium purchased it from us, so maybe there is hope in honoring the Andrevie legacy.

As for me, I don't think my research into France Andrevie can stop now.  I have been somehow captured by the bright, brief light she shined on the world with that wild talent that ultimately consumed her short life.  I hope to encourage fashion lovers to re-discover the world of France Andrevie, where all things are possible and where a dreamer's imagination becomes a brilliant reality.

"I myself, want to dream."

France Andrevie 

Lin-Manuel Miranda - Hamilton

We recently acquired this vintage dress from a Northwest estate that had some exceptional pieces of turn of the century and early 1900's - 1920's clothing and accessories.  When we saw the label, we knew we had found a rare treasure.The details were so fine and we had never seen this quality of work in what would have been considered a "day dress", especially from that era.  It was obviously a dress deserving of the Harry Collins label.

But, who was Harry Collins? Lady Astor and Matilda Dodge were two of his clients and he was considered the creme de la creme of American designers during the Edwardian and Art Deco eras.  A well known, equally admired contemporary of Lucille, his designs were recognized as America's version of the work of famous French designers of the time including the Callot sisters, Lanvin, Poiret, Doucet and Paquin.  He played a huge role in defining the American style of the 1910s and 1920s.  So, if he was so big at the time, why haven't most of you heard of him? That's a good question.

Today, while wondering how to write this post, Katie remarked that Harry Collins is our Alexander Hamilton.  (We even thought, for a brief second,  of re-writing Lin Manuel Miranda's lyrics to fit the designer's life - it was a quick fail).  But when you think about it, there are some similarities between the two men.  Like Hamilton, Harry Collins helped write a chapter in American history.  Okay, maybe he didn't help form a  democracy, or  create the treasury, but he did create a look for American women. His contribution to the fashion world was well respected and admired in the day.  Like Hamilton, Harry Collins wasn't given the credit he deserved from the institution to which he dedicated his life.  But, unlike Hamilton, Harry Collins is only known today to a small group people - mainly fashion historians and collectors. 

1919 Evening Dress by Harry Collins owned by Matilda Dodge from The Meadow Brook Hall collection

I have a soft spot for forgotten fashion designers.  Vera West, Clare Potter, and Sylvia Pedlar of Iris Lingerie are just a few of the talented designers that I believe never received the recognition they deserved. So naturally, when I wanted to write about Harry Collins I developed a soft spot when I discovered that no one seems to mention him anymore.  The more I looked, the further down the rabbit hole I fell. For someone obviously so well known during his career, there is virtually no information about his life.  Other than a few grainy images from newspaper archives, there seem to be no images of the man himself.

In terms of his famous dresses, other than this one we have listed HERE, they all simply seem to have vanished!  We could only find only a couple of dresses that had already sold online.  I believe the red dress was sold by Past Perfect Vintage and the Orange dress was sold by Antique Dress.

There are only a few books that mention his name, and a handful of websites that make any reference to his career.

Dress designed by Harry Collins in peach silk chiffon with turquoise, chartreuse, and pink silk ribbon and metallic trim for Mrs. Francis Garven (Mabel Brady) 1921The Philadelphia Museum of Art

Philip A. de László Portrait of Mrs. Francis P. Garvan (wearing the Harry Collins dress designed or her) and Her Four Children

Florence Harding's dress, featuring pearlized sequins on tulle and blue velvet ribbon trimmed with rhinestones. 

There are a couple of references to Collins on some fashion museum websites and in other places in regard to the dress he designed for first lady Florence Harding in 1921.  Though he was a Broadway and Hollywood film costume designer,  he never achieved acknowledgment for his work.

Elsie Lawson, Emilie Lea and Marguerite St. Claire in Gloriana, the cast of Oh My Dear in 1920 at The Princess Theatre and Miriam Collins in Oh My Dear 1920

 Vivienne Segal and Carl Randall in Oh Lady! Lady! 1918

Yansci Dolly of the Dolly Sisters in Harry Collins designs

But, if you spend days pouring through archives of vintage fashion magazines, as someone I know just did, you will find his many fashion articles and numerous clothing advertisements.  You only have to look at the sheer volume of 1920's Harry Collins advertisements to get an idea of how prolific his design career was during the teens and 20's.

The US Patent office has a few of his patents on file.

Harry Collins Undergarment Patent 1942

1923, Harry Collins published a fashion book called The ABC of Dress. That is something that actually IS available online.

In that book, you can learn a lot about what Harry Collins thought about fashion.  He believed, for example, that the term "chic" really just referred to "line" as in the line, or posture of your body.  "..grace and charm are a result of training the body to express one's mind with sincerity and poise."  I love that.

But what about the man himself? What can we find out about his life?  You will find conflicting information about the year he died - one source says 1958 and another says 1980.  And after the patents applied for in the 1940's, he virtually disappears.  After spending many hours on genealogical websites, (I already explained that I'm obsessive), I discovered that he married Hattie Manluck in Manhattan on March 19, 1913, and he had 2 children. 

The plot thickens. This is where I found that Harry Collins, like Alexander Hamilton was touched by controversy, although more indirectly. One of his children, Richard Collins, was a famous Hollywood screenwriter who was blacklisted for his association with the Communist party during the McArthur era.   I found the following from his obituary in the LA times regarding that period:

"He borrowed money to open a dress-cutting business but couldn't make a go of it. He was by then caring for his aged parents and raising two children from his marriage to actress Dorothy Comingore, best known for portraying the character modeled on William Randolph Hearst's mistress Marion Davies in "Citizen Kane." He and Comingore were divorced in 1945. She lost custody of their children in a highly publicized 1952 court hearing, at which she was accused of being an unfit mother because of alcoholism and her Communist leanings. A few weeks earlier, she had been an unfriendly witness before the House Un-American Activities Committee. (In a 1991 movie about the blacklist era, "Guilty by Suspicion," the character of an emotionally troubled actress hounded by the committee was inspired by Comingore.)"

Hoping to work in the film industry again, in 1951, testified before the House Un-American Activities Committee. He named more than 20 colleagues and friends in the film industry as belonging to or sympathizing with the Communist party. Though his career was once again intact, a cloud hung over his life from that testimony.

So from Richard's obituary, we know that Harry Collins has two living grandchildren; Michael Collins and Judith Collins Collard.  I would love to get into contact with them and ask them about their grandfather. So Michael and Judith, if you find this blog - please contact me!  I believe your grandfather, like Alexander Hamilton, needs someone to keep his flame and tell his story. 

xo

Lisa

Marc Jacobs 2018

Many recent runway shows have provoked outrage and dismay from a lot of fashion critics. The style savvy writers announced, in shock and dismay, (as if someone had died), that yes, ladies and gentlemen, the 80's are back. 

Unlike these disappointed fashion writers, Katie and I have been anticipating this moment for a long time!  Far from mourning, we are breaking out the champagne, because we really love a LOT about the 1980s!

So, over the next month, we'd like to show you the things we love about the decade everyone thinks they hate!  Here are our first 7 reasons for toasting the decade we both love to celebrate!

1. COLOR and Color Blocking! 

1980's Thierry Mugler Jacket                             Christian Lacroix 1980's dress

Yves Saint Laurent 1980's Dress                           Givenchy Couture 1980's

Escada Color Block Silk Blouse                             Bill Blass 1980s Evening Gown

Yves Saint Laurent 1988

Mietis - f/w  2018 - 2019

Tom Ford, Adam Selman, Marc Jacobs and Lanvin

Maybe it's because we live in Oregon and see too many gray days or maybe it's because we can't we can't think of any more creative ways to say beige, tan or brown.  But, whatever the reason, we loved the way the fashion designers of the 80's embraced bold, brave colors! So seeing them explode on the runways again is music to our eyes! 

No one did color blocking as well as Yves Saint Laurent! He was truly the master, but you can also achieve the color block effect yourself, by using solid colored contrasting scarves and accessories with solid colored separates or dresses!

2. BOLD SHOULDERS!

1980's black leather dress                         Lillie Rubin Vintage 80's Dress

1980's Jumpsuit                                        Alaia Black Leather Jacket 1980's

Claude Montana 1984 (Vogue)

Saint Laurent Sprint 2018 RTW

Balmain, Gareth Pugh, Chanel and Isabel Marant

Shoulder pads get a bad rap!  When done well, they do wonders for a body and bring the chic factor to any jacket. Yes - we are a little biased- we love strong shoulders and the powerful, empowered cuts of the 1980's! 

After all of the loose, free flowing 70's inspired tunics we've seen for what seems like years now, it's refreshing to see some structure back on the runway!  It's not just pads that give shoulders their day in the sun - the angles and details of the shoulders bring their own stylish drama!

Don't throw out all of your beautiful caftans though, you can easily pair them with a strong jacket or blazer. Free flowing fabrics are huge right now and the juxtaposition of mixing them with structure is gorgeous! You can start your shoulder statement slowly with a slightly padded jacket or embrace it fully with wide, angular cuts!  Once you do it, you'll be a believer!

3. LOGO AND STATEMENT TOPS

Vintage French Oui Sweater &                Sonia Rykiel Pull de Luxe Sweater

Esprit 1980's

Versace 2018

Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi, Gucci, Dior

Whether it's a logo, a meaningful political statement, or a silly saying, we have missed fun statement sweaters and sweatshirts in fashion. Katharine Hamnett's famous "Stay alive in 85" was a fashion must have in the 80's, and brands like Esprit, Gucci, and Versace all had coveted logo tops. 

It's fun to mix these types of sweaters and tops with more "serious" fabrics and patterns like silks, plaids, and patent leather! You can decide to wear your thoughts on your shirt or just have fun with shapes designs and logos to make your own kind of statement with your clothing!

4. RUFFLES!

Oscar de la Renta Vintage Ruffled Coat         Victor Costa 1980's Ruffled Net Dress

AJ Bari 1980's Ruffled Pink Dress                    Bill Blass 1980's Silk Ruffled Dress

Iman in Valentino Dress, photographed by Stan Malinowski for Vogue, 1980

Alexander McQueen 2018

Jason Wu, Givenchy, Gucci and Giambattista Valli

Everyone needs a few ruffles in their life! (And I'm not talking about the chips). They can instantly make the piece you are wearing unforgettable!

If you feel nervous about wearing ruffles, start with a blouse or dress with a simple ruffled collar and/or cuffs. Once you get used to a simple frill or two, be warned, you might fall in love with them and soon move on to more and more fluffy layers of romantic ruffles!

5. BOWS!

Victor Costa Vintage 1980's Pink Dress        Victor Costa 1980's Dress With bow

Nina Ricci 1980s Strapless Dress                  Oscar de la Renta 1980s dress

Christian Lacroix 1980s

Yves Saint Laurent and Dior (3rd from left) 1980s

Marc Jacobs 2018

Givenchy, Valentino, Givenchy, Marc Jacobs

Bows are back - everywhere!  They can range from single giant bows that define the entire piece you are wearing, or smaller bows that accent a blouse, dress or skirt.  The more dramatic the better and you won't just see them at the neck, they are showing up on bodices, shoulders, and skirts!  

Bows don't have to be overly "frilly", they can be strong and represent boldness and high style.  Find the bow that suits your personality style so that you can wear it effortlessly.

6. DYED LEATHER & FUR & FAUX FUR

Michael Hoban 1980's Jacket                             Yves Saint Laurent 1980s Coat

1980's Blue Leather Jacket and Skirt                 Vakko Orange Leather 1980's Coat

Michael Hoban for North Beach Leather 1980's

Roberto Cavalli 2018

Lanvin, Trussardi, Miu Miu, Londra, Versace, and Ellery

When did leather lose its pizazz? Leather & Faux Fur in bright colors is huge again!  Find a pair of orange leather pants to go with that simple black jacket or a fuzzy pink jacket to pair with your black leather pants.

We hope you will decide to make that color choice a vintage one because dyed leathers and furs/faux furs from the 1980's are usually easy to find and always fun to wear!

 7. DENIM!

1980s Thierry Mugler Denim Skirt Suit            Patrick Kelly 1980s Denim Short Suit

1980s Designer Denim Jacket                          Norma Kamali 1980's Denim Dress

Norma Kamali Denim Dress by Irving Penn 1983

Nina Ricci 2018

Adam Selman, Oscar de la Renta, Public School, Dior, and Stella McCartney

The return of denim is always good news!  Even 1980's inspired paint splattered or acid washed denim can look high fashion if worn well! High waist denim is replacing super low rises and designers are using every shade of blue!

Find some unique 1980's denim pieces and pair them with a modern handbag and contemporary shoes and it will fit in seamlessly! Most importantly, when you buy vintage, you are making an ethical fashion decision and one that will be uniquely your own!

We will continue our love affair with the 1980's in our next post when we talk about the beauty of oversized pieces and the power of the poof and the peplum! We won't stop until we convince you that the 1980's were pretty cool.

xo

Lisa

The upcoming MET costume exhibit; Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination (May 10–October 8, 2018) is sure to be nothing less than breathtaking! Yes, we all love the drama and hype around the MET gala and yes, we will absolutely admit that we can't wait to see what Rhianna will wear, (of course).

But, if you want more fashion to add to your "must see" list, you should know that fashion exhibits are on display in almost every area of the US and on every continent in the world.  They might not all have celebrity galas or grand staircases, but most are filled with absolute fashion treasures.

As you make your travel plans for 2018, consider visiting one or more of these popular and even lesser known museums and make your next vacation a journey through fashion history!  You'll be surprised at the gems you will discover!

1. Gianni Versace; The Retrospective
January 30 - April 14, 2018
Kronprinzenpalais  Unter den Linden 3  Berlin 10117 

This retrospective of Versace's work includes pieces from private collections, including unique pieces owned by celebrities such as Prince, Madonna, Elton John, George Michael, Anna Wintour, Claudia Schiffer, Naomi Campbell and Linda Evangelista.

We are starting to list our own private Dressing Vintage Studio collection of rare vintage Gianni Versace Jeans Couture Jeans on our website!  

2. Olivier Theyskens – She walks in beauty
Mode Museum  Nationalestraat 28  2000 Antwerp  Belgium

From the dark romantic side of his early designs which brought him world fame, to the new vision of couture he presented while at Rochas, his mastering of textiles and cut during his time at Nina Ricci, his American adventure with Theyskens’ Theory and the re-launch of his own brand Olivier Theyskens, the silhouettes on show all display the master’s hand.

3. Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier
May 10 - October 7, 2018
The Design Museum 224-238 Kensington High Street, London W8 6AG

Celebrate the timeless beauty of the female form with thirty-five years of haute couture from Azzedine Alaïa, and discover the mastery of cut, tailoring, fit, innovative form and materials behind the designer's unique creations.

Stella McCartney

4. Fashioned from Nature
Opening April 21, 2018
The Victoria and Albert Museum Cromwell Road, London, SW7 2RL

The first UK exhibition to explore the complex relationship between fashion and nature from 1600 to the present day.

May 25 – September 23, 2018
The Fashion and Textile Museum 83 Bermondsey Street, London SE1 3XF

Orla Kiely is one of the UK and Ireland’s most successful designers. Her stylized graphic patterns instantly recognizable. This exhibition explores the power of decoration to transform the way we feel.

6. T-Shirt:  Cult - Culture - Subversion
February 9 –  May 6, 2018
The Fashion and Textile Museum 83 Bermondsey Street, London SE1 3XF

Explore the T-shirt in the 20th Century through this inspirational exhibition; charting the history, culture and subversion of the most affordable and popular item of clothing on the planet. 

7. Guo Pei Couture Beyond
ATLANTA 
SCAD Fashion Museum
SEPT. 7, 2017–MARCH 4, 2018
1600 PEACHTREE ST. NW

SAVANNAH  
PEI LING CHAN GALLERY
OCT. 27, 2017–MARCH 4, 2018
322 MARTIN LUTHER KING JR. BLVD

Savannah College of Art and Design presents the first U.S. solo museum exhibition of designs by China’s Guo Pei, the first Chinese national fashion designer invited to join the prestigious Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture. Presented in Atlanta and Savannah, this landmark exhibition features more than 40 of Guo Pei’s most exquisite designs, including accessories and signature masterpieces, such as the now-iconic imperial yellow cape worn by Rihanna to the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute Gala in 2015.

8. Martin Margiela / Galliera 1989-2009
March 3 to July 15, 2018
Galliera Palace 10 Peter I Avenue of Serbia, Paris 16th,  75116

The first retrospective devoted to Martin Margiela in Paris, the exhibition traces, from spring-summer 1989 to spring-summer 2009, the career of the Belgian designer who questioned both the structures of the garment and the fashion systems.

11. Thierry Mugler: Alien to Angel 
Dec. 9, 2017 – Aug. 24, 2018
FIDM Orange County - 17590 Gillette Avenue Irvine, CA 92614

This FIDM exhibit explores the work of one of our favorites, Parisian designer Thierry Mugler. The exhibition includes garments, sketches, runway photography, and perfume bottles, painting a holistic picture of this provocative fashion icon.

Vintage Thierry Mugler pieces at Dressing Vintage

Lisa Lovaas for Transformers

13. The Art of Motion Picture Costume Design
February 6 to April 7, 2018
FIDM Museum 919 S. Grand AvenueLos Angeles, CA 90015

Alexander McQueen Evening dress, Fall/Winter 2008-9 

15. Norell: Dean of American Fashion
February 9 – April 14, 2018
Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology
Seventh Avenue at 27 Street New York City 10001-5992

One of the greatest fashion designers of the mid-twentieth century, Norman Norell is best remembered for redefining sleek, sophisticated, American glamour. This retrospective exhibition presents approximately 100 garments and accessories.

16. Dior - from Paris to the World
opens November 18, 2018
Denver Art Museum 100 W 14th Ave Pkwy Denver, CO 80204

A selection of 150 couture dresses, as well as accessories, costume jewelry, photographs, drawings, runway videos, and other archival material, will trace the history of the haute couture fashion house, its founder, Christian Dior, and the subsequent designers who carried Dior’s vision into the 21st century. 

Vintage Christian Dior at Dressing Vintage

17. Drawn to Glamour - Fashion Illustrations by Jim Howard
Opens March 25, 2018
Denver Art Museum 100 W 14th Ave Pkwy Denver, CO 80204 

This exhibit showcases the illustrations of artist Jim Howard, a well-respected member of Denver’s fashion community. More than 100 works on paper starting with his early advertising campaigns for Neiman Marcus in the late 1950s through 1980s when the fashion illustration industry was at its height. 

18. Iris van Herpen: Transforming Fashion 
February 24, 2018 to May 13, 2018
Phoenix Art Museum 1625 N. Central Avenue Phoenix, AZ 85004-1685 

This exhibit celebrates and examines the innovative work of Dutch designer Iris van Herpen. Renowned for her use of 3-D printing, van Herpen is widely considered one of today's fashion’s most progressive creators, and is a favorite designer of famous style icons, including Beyoncé, Lady Gaga, Björk and Cara Delevingne.

March 6 – 31, 2018

Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology
Seventh Avenue at 27 Street New York City 10001-5992

21. Fashion Unraveled
May 25 – November 17, 2018

Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology
Seventh Avenue at 27 Street New York City 10001-5992 

22. Pink: The History of a Punk, Pretty, Powerful Color
September 7, 2018 – January 5, 2019

Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology
Seventh Avenue at 27 Street New York City 10001-5992  

Vintage Pink at Dressingvintage.com

23. 100 HIGHLIGHTS

December 2, 2017 until April 24, 2018

Tassen Museum of Bags and Purses Herengracht 573  1017 CD Amsterdam

The exhibition displays some of the most remarkable bags from the 16th to 19th centuries. 

24. Royal Women 
February 3, 2018 to April 28, 2019

Fashion Museum Bath Assembly Rooms, Bennett St, Bath BA1 2QH, United Kingdom

Wives and daughters, sisters and mothers; none of the Royal women featured in the exhibition was monarch; yet each played a key role in the British monarchy.

25. Manolo Blahnik: The Art of Shoes

Open May 16, 2018 – January 6, 2019

BATA Shoe Museum 327 Bloor Street West Toronto, ON M5S 1W7

An intimate retrospective spanning 45 years of work by one of the most influential figures in his field; his inventiveness and superb craft has managed to cross boundaries between fashion and art. The BSM is excited to be the final, and only, North American stop on this exhibitions worldwide tour.

Well, that's our list, but it could have gone on much longer!  Whenever you are in a major city, ask around and you will probably find that they have some sort of fashion and/or textile museum!  From tiny one room collections to majestic palaces, they all have something special to show us and teach us about the world of fashion!

Vintage Manolo Blahnik Shoes at Dressing Vintage on 1stdibs

Here are some more museums with fashion exhibits that you might want to visit:

 

CITE DE LA DENTELLE ET DE LA MODE 
135, quai du Commerce Calais, France

This museum in Calais is filled with beautiful lace. From ancient handmade pieces to modern day couture, the museum gives the modern world an appreciation for an almost forgotten art.

Simone Handbag Museum

Seoul, Korea 536-17, Shinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu

Ferragamo Museum

Entrance: Palazzo Spini Feroni

Piazza Santa Trinita 5/R, 50123 Florence.

 

Ixchel Museum

6 calle final, zona 10, Centro Cultural UFM Ciudad de Guatemala, GUATEMALA

Museu da Moda

Av. Ernani Kroeff Fleck, 1810 95680-000 | Road Gramado - Canela - RS - Brazil

Kobe Fashion Museum
2-9-1 Naka-cho, Higashi Nada-ku, Kobe City

Bunka Gakuen Costume Museum

Shinjuku Bunka Quint Bldg., 3-22-7 Yoyogi, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 151-8529, Japan

Dressing Vintage has seen a lot of wonderful new things happen this past year - we opened our first appointment only studio in NW Portland, We hosted some fun private fashion parties including one honoring the life and career of Yves Saint Laurent, and one showcasing the timeless style of the little black dress.  We participated in great fashion shows & photo shoots, and sold pieces to famous fashion designers & celebrities. We also continued to enjoy seeing some of our pieces on stage and screen. 

The view from Dressing Vintage Studio Dressing Room

Dressing Vintage Studio

Our YSL Party at Dressing Vintage Studio

Our YSL Party - with a quote from his favorite author and a shirt hand painted by Katie Acheson Wolford.

The Dressing Vintage "Little Black Dress" Holiday Party with a gorgeous Thierry Mugler exposed shoulder dress.

Dressing Vintage at the Multnomah Athletic Club Fashion Show

Vintage Gold Jumpsuit at the Multnomah Athletic Club Fashion Show

Dressing Vintage Photo Shoot of Violet in Travilla photographed by Nic Porter 

We also said goodbye to some pieces we have treasured - always a bittersweet experience for us! Here are just a few that we were particularly sad to see leave us!

Gilbert Adrian Custom evening gown with dramatic fringe from the 1940's.

Gilbert Adrian Vintage Pink and Black Ruffled Cotton Dress

We had to let go of our last two dresses designed by the famous Hollywood costume designer, Gilbert Adrian.  Adrian was known for creating the Hollywood glamour look of the 1930's and 1940's. His screen credits always read "Gowns by Adrian" and he designed costumes for over 250 films. He was well known for his dramatic bias-cut evening gowns, his beautifully tailored skirt suits and for those large shoulder pads. His clients included Greta Garbo and Joan Crawford. He also created the ruby slippers for Dorothy in The Wizard of Oz.  Fortunately, these, as well as two of our other Adrian dresses, were sold to a writer who is putting together a book on Adrian, so they will hopefully be immortalized in its pages soon!

Michael Novarese ballgown owned by Audrey Hepburn

Versace stretch velvet vintage 1990's dress

We were obsessed with this dress! One of our favorites designed by Gianni himself.  This Versace dress was purchased by a darling young woman who wears it so well that it makes us feel a little better about having to say good-bye!

Claude Montana Vintage 1980's Leather Gloves

Vintage Alaia high waisted denim jeans

Vintage Alaia Goldenrod dress

We sold two of our Alaia pieces, which were particularly hard to see go in light of the sad death of Azzedine this year.  We still have a few more, including a fabulous Alaia leather jacket, and we are always on the hunt for vintage Alaia!

2018 is already starting off well as we are traveling across the country to participate in the Vintage Intermezzo show in New York City.  Vintage Intermezzo is a curated selection of vintage dealers showcasing one-of-a-kind apparel and accessories collections. If you are in the New York area and want to meet us, Katie and I would love it if you stopped by the Javits Center to say hello!  We will be at booth # 215 and we will even refund your ticket price to get in with your Dressing Vintage purchase!  

We hope that 2018 is a year of exciting adventures, new experiences, unconditional love and total acceptance for all of you!  And remember - everything is more exciting when you wear vintage!

Happy New Year,

Lisa and Katie

Azzedine Alaïa left the world on November 18, 2017. It seemed impossible that someone so important, ageless and full of life could depart so unannounced, so quickly, so soon.  The inevitable human condition of mortality took away the last of the great, authentic couturiers.

"I had forgotten that clothes could be this beautiful; no gimmicks, no vulgarity, no Instagrammable moments, just superb clothes superbly made, to flatter and enhance the women he loved...Azzedine, like Madame Grès, trained as a sculptor. His medium was not clay, stone, or marble, but cloth, and one saw the sculptor’s art in the way he caressed his fabrics to the bodies of his beloved mannequins." Hamish Bowles

Grace Jones in Iconic Alaia dress 1987

If you don't know about about Azzedine Alaia and his iconic designs, do some research and you will be astonished by his talent, original point of view, and uncompromising attention to detail.  We have been fortunate to acquire several Alaia vintage pieces during the years and are always surprised by the unique twists and details that make each one a masterpiece. 

But this post isn't really about Alaia's contributions to the fashion world, it's about something much more important, because, something unusual happened when Alaia died. People didn't just say the obligatory thing, they didn't just talk about his many accomplishments and successes, they did something we don't see too often anymore - they expressed genuine emotion, they actually mourned.  In today's world of me me me, the people who were touched by Alaia stopped for a minute to express genuine loss and sadness from loss of someone who impacted their lives.

“I like women. I never think about doing new things, about being creative, but about making clothing that will make women beautiful.” Azzedine Alaia

I have a very good friend named Valerie who makes me feel like I am the most remarkable person in the world. I always leave our time together feeling encouraged, energized, and even a little invincible.  She treats me like she has all of the time in the world for me and every time I'm around her I'm certain that I must be her favorite person.  Many years ago, I discovered something about Valerie that made me admire her even more. To my surprise, I am only one of many of her favorite people.  Everyone who is fortunate enough to know her feels elevated, truly seen, and more valuable when they spend a few minutes talking to her.  Valerie doesn't see class, status or social resumes, she sees people.  She has that unique, selfless ability to make everyone she is with feel like they are all that matter.

I never met Azzedine Alaia, but everything I know about his relationships with his friends reminds me a little of Valerie's relationships with hers. Well, except that Valerie hates to cook! 

Alaia's legendary dinner parties included people from all walks of life and were filled with debates, laughter, music and love.  The people who knew him speak about Alaia's sense of humor, love for animals & vodka, obsession with National Geographic documentaries, devotion to his friends, passion for interesting conversations, and his un paralleled dedication to and love for his work. 

When you read the many remembrances, social media posts, and interview excerpts from the people who knew Alaia, you start to realize that there was something very special about the man that really had nothing to do with his career in fashion. Everyone he touched felt as if they were somehow a part of his inner circle and they were made to feel like they were ... his favorites.

“Alaïa loved to sew and cook. He used needles and threads to sculpt around the body of the woman…transforming her into a goddess of beauty and strength…there was no one like him.…He was intimidating…but admired by all.” Diane von Furstenberg

"His kitchen, where he was famous for holding free-flowing lunch and dinner gatherings, for which he often cooked, was his soapbox. There he would regale guests — who could include designers, Kardashians, the artist Julian Schnabel, the architect Peter Marino and seamstresses from his ateliers — long into the night with opinions, stories and exhortations...I used to go into the kitchen via the back door — the hotel and the house share an internal courtyard — after returning from the last show of the day, and grab a plate of whatever was on the stove that night to take upstairs while I worked. Over the years I had inadvertently walked in, unannounced, on everyone from Lady Gaga to Alicia Keys; Cindy Crawford and her daughter Kaia Gerber; Franca Sozzani’s birthday party, and a whole bunch of models new to Paris that Azzedine had kept on to feed after a show casting." Vanessa Friedman The New York Times

"Some of my most memorable experiences in Paris happen during dinner parties at Azzedine Alaïa's house. Before he stays up all night sewing, Azzedine will cook for his friends. It's always a wild affair. One time, Grace Jones came over with her mother and son. That same night, I met Bettina Graziani, the famous model who was once married to Aly Khan. She had given her collection of fashion photographs to Azzedine to exhibit in the gallery at his atelier. Though she wasn't in very good health and was accompanied by her nurse, Bettina still looked so beautiful, wearing clothes that she probably fit into 30 years before. And seated next to me was Anouk Aimée." Bruce Weber, photographer

"The one and only , the truest talent and the funniest, sweetest most generous man! We will never forget the dinners in the kitchen , the dogs to dance with, the tours of the Studio and the magnificent house and the cheeky pranks ( like wrapping his assistant in gaffer tape, or biting someone’s leg under the table ) and the most timeless ultra femme designs that will ever exist. Proud to have known you dear #azzedine Kisses iv" Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, photographers

Alaia with his dear friend Carla Sozzani

“One of my biggest memories was sitting down in that huge kitchen that he had that was such a meeting point of so many people. It could be anyone from the garbage man to some huge buyer to whatever. He mixed everybody together and somehow made it work, because he was the one in the middle. And he actually did the cooking himself a lot of the time. He was a really great person. And very, very loyal.” Grace Coddington, creative director at large at Vogue

"A few years after this first introduction, while vacationing in Paris with my husband, Alaïa invited us to dine...his black Chinese pajamas subbing for chef’s whites as he skillfully assembled a meal, gathering guests around his ample kitchen table. We were among luminaries that treated us as old friends: at the end of the evening, we couldn’t believe we had been conversing and sharing laughter with a famous fashion photographer, Picasso’s granddaughter, vintage couture specialists, and Alaïa’s devoted staff. All treated equally by a generous spirit and sublime designer sans pareil."  Leigh Wishner - FIDM Museum Coordinator 

"I will mourn forever the loss of my friend. A true genius in not only fashion but in his heart. He was a king and had the highest standards of design and work ethic. He was so giving, so loving, his heart so full and pure. I watched in awe as he hand made each and every piece, his fingers touching the fabric like poetry. Then he would want to feed us all, and cook with his own hands and talk for hours at the table while his dogs would run around joyfully smelling the delicious food he made us. To say he was special would be an understatement. To say he was integral, important and influential to fashion is simply not enough. There was no one who did what he did. No one knew a woman’s body like him. He should be celebrated as one of the greatest fashion designers the world has ever known. I love you, Azzedine. I am devastated I didn’t get to say goodbye. I love you." Lady Gaga

“Mr. Alaïa is a legend—one of the best designers and creators of our time. He is so kind and generous … and funny! A very warm soul—I’ve enjoyed every moment I have had with him. As a child, my family’s white poodle was named Azzedine Alaïa. That’s how much my mom [Kris Jenner] loved him. She introduced me to his clothes. I remember watching her get dressed. If it was a fun date night out she would put on an Alaïa. She saved them all and when I started to go to red carpet events she would let me wear them.” Kim Kardashian West

Marc Jacobs with Azzedine Alaia

"A true artist, genius and master. He was always kind, friendly and supportive of me. He welcomed me when I first came to Paris. We had some great adventures and many good times. His talent is unparalleled and his playful character generous, naughty and wickedly unique. The exceptional beauty he created is timeless and will without question- live forever! I pray that Azzedine will rest in peace" Marc Jacobs

Azzedine Alaia with stylist Charlotte Stockdale

"Devastated to hear about the passing of my friend Azzedine Alaïa. Mr. Alaïa was a genius and an incredibly kind man. Thank you for everything. R.I.P." Mariah Carey

 Naomi Campbell modeling Azzedine Alaïa - Fall 1991 Ready-to-Wear collection

"Dear papa , I was blessed in my life to meet you and for your embrace at 16 ,so many wonderful memories of you through out our journey together . I got to experience what it was like to be around a Genius !!! You taught me and opened my eyes to so many things in life , and how to strive for perfection , as you were PERFECTION and UNIQUE and will always be . No one understood the body of a woman more than you . That made us feel good about ourselves inside out . You did all the fatherly duties my unknown father should have . You ignited happiness to all whom were around you , from dancing in the kitchen to playing practical jokes . You protected me and loved me unconditionally . Im eternally , grateful to you the day you picked up the phone and called my mother to tell her you were taking me in.

Papa until we meet again on the other side , I know you will continue to guide me , and always be in my heart . May you Rest In Peace I love you papa Ta Fille Naomi 💔🙏🏾. Thank you for all the condolences I have received..This pain runs deep I wish I could wake up and it was all a bad dream . I love you Papa 💔💔🙏🏾" Naomi Campbell

We thought this wall was the perfect place for a quote from Yves Saint Laurent's favorite author, Marcel Proust. The blouse below is one of a kind with a hand drawn image of Yves by Katie Acheson Wolford.

Choosing Yves Saint Laurent for our first studio event was natural for us. We have a huge respect for his talents and contributions to the fashion world.  

The tables were covered with versions of the paper dolls that Yves created as a teenager! We shared delicious treats from a local French bakery and the beautiful flowers were a gift from our friends at Geranium Lake Flowers.

In honor of his French heritage, the YSL party included Boulevardier and Kir Royale cocktails and lots of champagne!

"Every woman in the world, sometimes without even knowing it, has something in her closet inspired by Yves Saint Laurent. His genius is irreplaceable."

Michael Kors

Our vast collection includes vintage Yves Saint Laurent from the 1970's through the 1990's. In addition to our vintage YSL pieces, our guests were treated to YSL fashion shows and interviews with the couturier running on a video loop on the walls in the bathroom!

"Chanel, Schiaparelli, Balenciaga and Dior all did extraordinary things...Yves Saint Laurent is like a combination of all of them. He's got the form of Chanel with the opulence of Dior and the wit of Schiaparelli."

Christian Lacroix

This was my favorite item of the evening - an original drawing of Yves Saint Laurent by Katie Acheson Wolford that was laser cut in acrylic.

"He was like Picasso in the way he kept transforming his style and yet each new one had an incredible impact on fashion.”

Valerie Steele, director and chief curator of The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology

“I want to thank the women who have worn my clothes, those who are famous and those who are not, who were loyal and who gave me so much joy.”

Yves Saint Laurent

"He’s the pied piper of fashion. Whatever he does, women of all ages, from all over the world, follow."

Diane Vreeland

A good friend of ours brought some pamphlets from the Musée Yves Saint Laurent in Paris so our guests could take those home with them, as well as our own mini tribute book to Yves.

Lisa in a blouse with original artwork by Katie Acheson Wolford and Katie in a YSL couture dress.

It was such an honor to be able to share some favorites from our vintage YSL  collection. Even though we couldn't invite all of you to our opening party, Katie and I would love to have you visit us in our new studio! Our next party will explore the important designers of the 1980's! Sign up for our newsletter to be on the list to attend future private parties, or fill out an appointment card to arrange to visit us! 

À bientôt

Bow ties have become synonymous with some celebrities, and in some cases, have completely defined their look. After all, imagine what would have become of Colonel Sanders, Orville Redenbacher, Bill Nye The Science Guy and The Cat in the Hat be if they didn't have their bow ties?

Colonel Sanders

Orville Redenbacher

The Cat in the Hat

Bill Nye

There are so many different fabrics, patterns, and styles of bow ties that every man is bound to find the one that suits his personality.  

Manolo Blahnik yes, a famous shoe designer, but also a famous bow tie wearer!

Pre-tied Vintage Gingham Bow Tie

Bow ties aren't as simple as they might seem to the novice wearer, they can be slim, normal or wide, self-Tie (or freestyle) that you tie yourself, pre tied or clip on.  They come in many shapes including; butterfly, western, batwing, diamond point, rounded, etc.

Vintage Large Butterfly Clip On Bow Tie

Talbott Studio Burgundy Paisley Vintage Silk Bow Tie

Karl Lagerfeld is known to wear many styles of bow ties including this cravat bow.

So in honor of Father's Day, we'd like to take the time to pay tribute to some of our favorite bow tie wearing heartthrobs, who, by the way, are/were also dads.  These men understood the power of bow ties and wore them with style and sophistication.

Clark Gable

Gary Cooper

Gregory Peck

James Stewart

Cary Grant

Sidney Poitier

Frank Sinatra and Elvis Presley

Warren Beatty

Paul Newman

Robert Redford

James Bond himself even became known for his effortless ability to wear bow tie!  Every James Bond had his own flare for tying (or not tying) his own style of bow.

Sean Connery

David Niven

George Lazenby

Roger Moore

Timothy Dalton

Pierce Brosnan

Daniel Craig

Michael Jackson

Robert Downey Jr.

Denzel Washington

Bruce Willis

Harrison Ford

Will Smith

Johnny Depp

Prince William

Justin Timberlake

Taye Diggs

Channing Tatum

Ryan Gossling

Chris Hemsworth

Ryan Reynolds

Usher

Hugh Jackman

So, whether you are reading this for yourself, your husband, or your father, embrace the timeless magic of the bow tie! Find the particular tie that brings out that inner James Bond, Usher or Cary Grant. After all, isn't every man a potential heartthrob just waiting to be discovered?!

Happy Father's Day from Dressing Vintage!

Shop for Vintage Bow Ties

A personal fashion design illustration for Mrs. Nicky Hilton in the 1960's by Donfeld

A personal fashion illustration for Audrey Hepburn by Donfeld

My beautiful, treasured art pieces were created by the costume designer Donfeld, who designed the costumes for the Wonder Woman television show in the 1970's. With the release of the new Wonder Woman movie, I thought it might be nice to pay tribute to the costume designer who created the costumes for the original wonder woman, Lynda Carter, and remind movie goers of his phenomenal career.

Donfeld was born Donald Lee Feld in Los Angeles in 1934.  He used the name Don Feld for a while and then eventually changed it to Donfeld.  He attended Chouinard Art Institute and eventually went to work at Capitol Records as an album cover designer at the young age of 19. In the 1950's, he started designing costumes for the Academy Awards show production numbers.   

The 6 foot 5 Donfeld was beloved in Hollywood and known for his "great flair for life, unquenchable interest in films and overflowing humor." He worked with just about every name on the Hollywood's Who's Who list. According to Robert Osborne;  "Bette Davis insisted he do her clothes for "Dead Ringer," Ingrid Bergman asked for him on "Walk in the Spring Rain," .. and he'd go anywhere Jacqueline Bisset wanted him, day or night, sun or storm, Europe or Pico Boulevard."  Donfeld also designed clothing for his high profile clients for their personal use, like those created from the sketches I acquired.

A Donfeld sketch for Bette Davis in Dead Ringer

Donfeld worked on more than 30 films and dressed stars including Frank Sinatra and Sammy Davis Jr. in Robin and the 7 Hoods in 1964, Elvis Presley and Ann-Margret in Viva Las Vegas in 1964, Natalie Wood and Tony Curtis in The Great Race in 1965, Jane Fonda in They Shoot Horses Don't They in 1969, Jill St. John in Diamonds are Forever in 1971, and Anjelica Huston and Jack Nicholson in Prizzi's Honor in 1985.   

Donfeld costume sketch for Ann-Margret

Donfeld's sketches were prized for their own uniqueness and style.  His designs on paper are instantly recognizable and now, highly collectible.

Donfeld with Ann-Margret in 1965

Donfeld sketch for Elvis Presley Viva Las Vegas

Donfeld sketch for Janice Rule in Hombre

Donfeld costume sketch for Maureen Ohara as Peggy Hobbs in Mr. Hobbs Takes a Vacation in 1962

"Good costume design captures the mood and attitude of the players, their society, their environment," Donfeld (in a 1969 interview with The Los Angeles Times).

Donfeld Sketch for Marilyn Monroe for a 1962 project never filmed A Loss of Roses

Donfeld costume designed for Barbra Streisand's performance at The Coconut Grove 1963

Donfeld's costume sketches for Jane Fonda in They Shoot Horses Don't They

Donfeld's costume illustration for Jill St. John as Tiffany Case Diamonds are Forever 

The costumes that Donfeld designed for Jill St. John's character "Tiffany Case" in Diamonds are Forever were inspired by none other than one of my personal favorites, Yves Saint Laurent.  Donfeld was particularly inspired by Saint Laurent's Rive Gauche ready to wear label and the independent spirit of the modern woman the line invoked.  You can see that same inspiration reflected in his designs for Jane Fonda in her role in The China Syndrome in 1979 and in those designed for Anjelica Huston in Prizzi's Honor.

The China Syndrome 1979

Donfeld's sketch for a costume for Angelica Huston in Prizzi's Honor 

Donfeld's costume sketch for Spaceballs

So, as you go to the movies to see the NEW Wonder Woman, take a minute to remember the talented man who started it all and the legacy he left us, forever immortalized in his incredible body of work. 

Thank you Donfeld!

The Acheson Sisters by John Singer Seargent

These ladies are also somewhat special to me, as they are my husband's great Aunts. The Ladies Alexandra, Mary and Theodosia Acheson were the three daughters of the fourth Earl of Gosford. I certainly wish I had some of their gowns!

The Fairbanks Sisters

Madeline (15 November 1900 – 15 January 1989) and her twin sister Marion Fairbanks (15 November 1900 – 20 September 1973) were famous actresses in the 1910's and 1920's. They wore elaborate clothing and were regularly photographed.

The Gish Sisters

Dorothy and Lillian Gish were actresses who started in the silent film era but they continued to act for many years. They were early fashion trend setters.

The Sisters G

Karla and Eleanor Gutchrlein danced as the Sisters G. all over Europe during the 1920's with their own unique style.

The Dolly Sisters

The glamorous Rózsika (Rose or Rosie) and Janka (Yancsi or Jenny) Deutsch, were Hungarian Vaudeville stars and performed with the Ziegfeld Follies. They were always in style.

The Talmadge Sisters

Norma, Constance and Natalie Talmadge were beautiful and very stylish Silver Screen stars of the silent era.

The Dodge Twins

Beth and Betty Dodge were stars of the Jazz age and their stage fashions were renowned.

Talent and Beauty Runs in the family! Loretta Young with her sisters Polly and Sally.

Loretta Young (third from left) with her sisters Georgiana, Sally Blane, and Polly Ann. 

Loretta Young and her sisters were all film actresses and always stylishly chic.

The Bouvier Sisters

Before they were Jacqueline Kennedy or Jacqueline Onassis, and Lee Radziwill, they were the Bouvier sisters. They both helped define the style of the 1960's and 1970's.

The Gabor Sisters with their mother

The three famous Hungarian-American actress sisters in the Gabor family were Magda (1915 – 1997), Zsa Zsa (1917 – 2016), and Eva (1919 – 1995). They were always glamorous fashion darlings.

The Bennett Sisters

Joan and Constance Bennett were another pair of famous acting sisters.

Princesses Elizabeth and Margaret

Royal sisters Elizabeth and Margaret had eyes on them even before Elizabeth became queen, as they were very stylish little princesses!

The Kim Sisters

The Kim Sisters were a South Korean-born American female musical trio. Two were sisters, Sue and Aija, and the third was their cousin Mia.

Model Sisters

Suzy Parker and her younger sister Dorian Leigh were famous models during from the 1940's through the 1970's.

Joan Fontaine and Olivia de Haviland

Joan and Olivia had a famously tempestuous relationship, but their talent and beauty was undeniable!

The Wood Sisters

Natalie and Lana Wood were both actresses and great beauties.

Catherine Deneuve and Françoise Dorléac were not only actresses, but fashion muses. Sadly, Françoise died in an auto accident at the age of 25.

The Wilson Sisters - Heart

Sisters Ann and Nancy Wilson became famous in the 1970s as a Rock duo and alternative fashion icons.

I hope you enjoyed this fashion tribute to sisters - and I hope that you will find your own unique way to create a little style legacy of your own!  

Happy International Siblings Day!

On the street in Gamla Stan, Stockholm, Sweden

We spent Christmas of 2016 exploring Stockholm, Sweden, delving into our rich Swedish heritage and, naturally, shopping for vintage treasures. Winter in Stockholm is a magical time, where extreme weather meets impeccable design.

Scandinavian Design Store E. Torndahl

Every week feels like fashion week on the streets of Stockholm, and even the cheapest thrift store feels like an elegant boutique. We quickly realized that the US is trying desperately to catch up to the impeccable, and seemingly effortless Swedish aesthetic.

Swedish Color Palettes

There were four hours of sunlight each day on our trip, and the temperature stayed well below freezing, but the Swedish people have learned how to warm up the cold, dark winter. Every street was draped with a different variety of perfect glistening strands of light. One bustling downtown street would have an array of chandeliers running down the center overhead, while another cobblestone road glistens from stars strung between the centuries old brick buildings. Since it was the holidays, the scent of saffron and cardamom wafted through the air from the bakeries, and store windows were softly aglow with advent candle trays.

Gamla Stan during the day

Gamla Stan at night

The unexpected contrasts are where the Swedish "look" feels most effective. Swedes seamlessly infuse new, cutting edge design with the stunning charm of the old, creating a unique place that is unlike any other.

Sweden in the winter is a dark, cold, and an undeniably amazing experience.

UP NEXT: Dressing Vintage in Sweden - Part 2: Stockholm VintageSaveSave

Bette Davis and Joan Crawford on the set of Whatever Happened to Baby Jane?

My latest obsession is Feud on FX.  This docudrama from the producer of American Horror Story, Ryan Murphy, examines the rivalry between Bette Davis and Joan Crawford while they were filming the movie, Whatever Happened to Baby Jane in 1962. Susan Sarandon and Jessica Lange masterfully portray the challenges Bette and Joan faced with ageism, sexism and misogyny. 

Bette Davis and Joan Crawford in Whatever Happened to Baby Jane 1962

I was too young to see Whatever Happened to Baby Jane in movie theaters.  But because I had a mother who sometimes inappropriately let me watch movies I was much too young to see, I did watch it on tv when I was about 9.  I was terrified.

I'm sure that I missed a lot of the nuances in the film at my young age, but I was specifically horrified by Bette Davis.  Her scary makeup, her giant bug eyes, and her crazy smile gave me shivers.  

I didn't know any other Bette Davis.  In my little mind, I thought that this crazy woman was surely over 80 years old and one of the most horrifying women I'd ever seen on television.  She was literally Baby Jane Hudson to my 9 year old brain.

It wasn't until I was much older, when I watched more black and white movies and became enamored with all things old Hollywood that I discovered the other Bette, and the other Joan.

Joan Crawford in Gilbert Adrian Dress in I Live My Life 1935

Bette Davis in the 1930's

These much more glamorous versions of Bette and Joan seemed very far removed from the women I saw onscreen at the age of 9. The younger Joan and Bette represented everything beautiful and romantic about the 1930's and 40's. Their confidence, the dramatic make-up and the deco gowns they wore, made them the epitome of glamour.

Joan Crawford in Sadie McKee 1934 in a Gilbert Adrian Gown

Bette Davis

Bette Davis and Joan Crawford's talent and broad appeal helped make the major Hollywood studios the successful industries they became, but as these stars aged, they became irrelevant to the Hollywood power players. The studios were moving towards bombshell blondes and younger starlets. Bette Davis was only 42 when she filmed All About Eve, her "comeback" role about an aging actress being replaced by a younger, newer version.  Just for some context, Angelina Jolie, Amy Adams, Cate Blanchett and Drew Barrymore are all in their 40's.

Even though they were feeling as if their careers were over and they might not ever work again, Joan Crawford was 58 (approximately) and Bette Davis was only 54 when they filmed Whatever Happened to Baby Jane.  Joan Crawford was still feeling the need to wear "falsies" and tighten her neck before scenes.  The talent that both of these remarkable actresses was overlooked because they no longer fit the description of what Hollywood defined as the ideal of beauty.

"I get up at seven for the make-up, Rita Hayworth at six, Joan Crawford and Bette Davis at five. I don’t want to know the time when I’ll have to come to the studio even earlier."

Grace Kelly

Susan Sarandon and Jessica Lange are also stars that have aged in the public eye.  In contrast, however, Susan Sarandon is 70 years old and Jessica Lange is 67 - much older than the 50+ year old characters they portray in Feud. It's hard to imagine denying roles to these women because of their ages.  It's hard to watch, at times, the struggle they face with their fading star power and realization that the world has moved past them.

Susan Sarandon as Bette Davis in Feud

Jessica Lange as Joan Crawford in Feud

Susan Sarandon as Bette and Joan Crawford as Joan in Feud

 Bette Davis, Jack Warner and Joan Crawford

I am really fascinated by the issue of ageism.  It seems to be a problem that only gets worse with the culture of youth we are so focused on today. No one ever feels old on the inside, it's the outside world that makes us all feel more invisible the older we get. 

Jessica Lange

Susan Sarandon

But has anything really changed? Yes, we live a little longer.  And, perhaps there are more roles available to female actresses over the age of 50 than there were in the 1960's. And yes, Susan Sarandon and Jessica Lange look much younger today than their younger characters did when they filmed Whatever Happened to Baby Jane.  But do they feel any less pressure to look a certain way than Bette and Joan?

Modern beauty products and techniques have helped us all maintain the illusion of youth for a bit longer.  I see more and more women in their 30's getting botox and even some as young as 20 are getting injections. Has our ability to delay the appearance of aging made us even more focused on it?  I understand it though, our beauty standard has changed so much that aging, especially in Hollywood, isn't really an option.

If a female star decides to forego any type of help and ages naturally, will she still be offered award worthy roles in Hollywood? And what do we say when we see her on the Late Show or at an award ceremony? Do we admire the fact that she is aging gracefully or do we shake our heads at how old she looks? 

This is the way that I remember Bette Davis; so chic in her Patrick Kelly dress at the age of 79.  Her skin very wrinkled, a cigarette in her hands, her voice a little raspier, and her frame much thinner.  But, she still commanded the room with her sharp wit and no nonsense personality.  The role of baby Jane Hudson gave her the opportunity to reject all that was glamorous and truly show her true talent.  We would call that a brave performance today, and indeed, it was.

Sarandon and Lange haven't shied away from brave roles and their talent is undeniable, I can't think of any two better actresses to play Bette and Joan.  But somehow, I don't think much has changed in the world in terms of our love affair with beauty and youth.  I think the pressure to stay beautiful has just become more pronounced as the procedures and techniques become more available.

I'd like to think that I can be brave, like Bette.  I hope that my appearance isn't the definition or sum of my life's meaning. But I will admit, it will be hard to embrace aging in a culture that abhors anything older than the newest, shiniest face on Instagram.  A world that used to honor and respect older human beings now discards them with an almost arrogant disdain.

Her once legendary eyes might have grown a bit dimmer toward the end of her life, but I hope that the world will get to a place where they see beyond wrinkles, a few extra pounds and gray hair. I hope they will see the beauty, life experience and wisdom that lives behind the aging eyes we all will someday have.  Until then, we should all remember something that a wise Bette Davis once said,

"Old age is no place for sissies."

Bette Davis

1. Nettie Rosenstein

"It's what you leave off a dress that makes it smart."

1955 Chrysler Advertisement with prominent American Fashion Designers Nettie Rosenstein is the 5th from the left.

Coty award winning Nettie Rosenstein was born Nettie Rosenscransin in Salzburg, Austria in 1890. Her family migrated to the United states when she was an infant and settled in Harlem, New York.Ms. Rosenstein was known for designing by draping and pinning, a technique she used instead of sketching her designs. Though she never had any formal training in fashion design,  her clothing was carried by I. Magnin, Nan Duskin, Bonwit Teller, and Neiman Marcus. At the time, her dresses were considered to be the most expensive off-the-rack designs in the country. She designed the dress that first lady Mamie Eisenhower wore to the inauguration.

1953 First Lady Mamie Eisenhower in an original Nettie Rosenstein design

2. Valentina 

"Fit the century, forget the year."

Valentina Sanina

The legendary beauty, Valentina Nicholaevna Sanina Schlee was born in Kiev, Ukraine on May 1, 1899.  She has a fascinating, sometimes controversial biography. Valentina was an actress who met her soon to be Russian financier husband, George Schlee at the Sevastopol railway station as she was fleeing the country with her family jewels. Schlee is best known for his 20-year relationship with Greta Garbo, who became obsessed with everything Russian after meeting the couple. Some speculate that Mr. Schlee was in love with Garbo.  Valentina won the Coty award and was known for the elegant, long flowing dresses she designed for famous actresses including, Katharine Hepburn, Helen Hayes, Lily Pons, Lynn Fontanne, and Greta Garbo.

Valentina in a dress of her own design

3. Lilly Daché 

"A hat is an expression of a woman’s soul. It is something that she wears on her head, but it belongs to her heart."

Milliner Lilly Daché

If you are at all familiar with hats, you probably have heard of the Coty award winning milliner Lilly Daché!  Lilly Daché was reportedly born in Bègles, France. Oddly though, both her birthplace and birth year have been questioned. Some say that she was actually not from France, but from Poland or Romania. Some say that she was born in 1893, and some say 1904. Regardless of when or where she was born, she migrated to the United States in 1919.  From a salesperson at Macy's, she went to being co-owner of a hat shop on the upper West Side of New York.  She then bought out her coworker and continued to make major contributions to the millinery world with her draped turbans, molded brimmed hats, half hats, visored caps, colored snoods, and other styles.  

"Glamour is what makes a man ask for your telephone number. But it also is what makes a woman ask for the name of your dressmaker." Lilly Daché

Lilly Dache Vintage Hat

4.Pauline Trigère

"Fashion is what people tell you to wear, style is what comes from your own inner thing." 

Pauline Trigere

Some of our most timeless pieces were designed by Pauline Trigère.  Pauline Trigère was born in Paris to Russian Jewish parents in 1908. Opinionated, and unafraid of making waves, in 1961, she became the first name designer to use an African- American model. She was known for her ultra sophisticated designs.  In her obituary, The New York Times remarked, "...not only her own best model but also an elegant and chic symbol of the American fashion industry for more than half a century." 

Pauline Trigere Rare Signed Vintage Silk Dress

5. Carolina Herrera

"Everyone knew me as a social person, that was the most difficult thing to prove, that I was not a dilettante."

Carolina Herrera

Carolina Herrera was born María Carolina Josefina Pacanins y Niño on January 8, 1939, in Caracas, Venezuela. As a young girl, Carolina went to shows by Balenciaga with her grandmother who bought her outfits at Lanvin and Dior. By marriage to Reinaldo Herrera Guevara, the 5th Marquis of Torre Casa, Carolina held the title The Marquise of Torre Casa until it was retracted in 1992, as Reinaldo did not have a son. Herrera has been the recipient of the Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award from the Council of Fashion Designers of America, Womenswear Designer of the Year, the Award of Excellence from The International Center in New York, and the 2014 Couture Council Award for Artistry of Fashion. She has been called "Our Lady of the Sleeves," a reference to her exaggerated shoulder and statement sleeve designs.

Carolina Herrera Vintage Dress

6. Diane Von Fürstenberg 

"I design for the woman who loves being a woman."

Diane von Furstenberg - Photographs by Horst P. Horst, Vogue, July 1976

Diane Von Fürstenberg was born in Belgium, Diane Simone Michelle Halfin on December 31, 1946. Both of her parents were Jewish, and her mother, Liliane Nahmias, was a survivor of the Holocaust. Fürstenberg's mother was a prisoner at Auschwitz concentration camp just 18 months before her daughter was born.  She is perhaps most known for the jersey wrap dress she designed in 1974 but has influenced women's fashion for decades.

Diane Von Furstenberg Vintage Wrap Dress

As we ponder what makes an American an American, we are reminded that the definition changes and morphs into something new every year.  This beautiful, rich tapestry of human beings would only be a flat, lifeless canvas without the variety of colors and textures that made it the remarkable wonder it is.  Thank you to all of the immigrants and descendants of immigrants who have made their mark on this world and for sharing your talents and life force with the rest of us.

"Immigrants..we get the job done."

The re-resurgence of plaid in the fashion world is a welcomed departure from the oversized grunge flannel shirts that dominated the 1990's! Seeing tartan on the runway in neutrals, bright and soft tones is a breath of fresh air.

Whether hip-hop inspired plaid threads like in Marc Jacobs' new line, or plaid was found when exploring what it means to be British like Jenny Packham - tartan was present in almost every new line that hit the runway this year.

 Here are some of our favorite photos from New York Fashion Week Fall 2017:

(L-R: Jenny Packham, Coach)

(L-R: Mara Hoffman, Claudia Li)

(L-R: Rosie Assoulin, MISBHV)

(L-R: Öhlin/D, Tome)

(L-R: Marc Jacobs, Baja East)

(L-R: Tory Burch, Kenzo)

Plaid, of course, wasn't invented by Kurt Cobain, and this isn't the first time plaid has hit the runway. Tartan has been used by high end vintage clothing designers such as Valentino, Yves Saint Laurent, Chanel, Claire McCardell, and many more for decades.

Here are some of our favorite Dressing Vintage plaid pieces that look 2017 runway-ready!

Vintage Plaid Skirts

 (R-L: Pendleton, YSL, Valentino)

Vintage Plaid Dresses

 (Top L to Bottom R: Yves Saint Laurent, Lou Ette California, Claire McCardell, Janice Kay, Yves Saint Laurent (Brown), Charles Cooper)

Vintage Plaid Outerwear

(Top L to Bottom R: Sandra Sage, Mildred Warner, Kenzo, Mondi, B&W Valentino, Brown Valentino)

Vintage Plaid Suits

 (L to R: Chanel, Valentino (Gold), Valentino (Gray))

Vintage Plaid Accessories

 (From L to R: Nicholas Ungar, Fontana, Therese Ahens

Compare the modern trend with it's vintage counterpart side-by-side down below! Which do you prefer?

While my list of ethical and personal dilemmas could make for a huge Debbie Downer of a Valentine's Day, vintage fashion comes through to rescue this day of love -- alongside the nice excuse to wear a hot pink dress, bright red lipstick, and purple pumps all at once!

Vintage Lipstick Kiss Blotter Handkerchiefs

At Dressing Vintage, we love spectacular things. We also love a good theme that allows us show off some of our loveliest vintage treasures in a unique way! No matter how you choose to spend February 14th, use it as an excuse to spoil yourself or your significant other with something unique, ethical, and absolutely beautiful.

1. Red "Lipstick" Vintage Handkerchief   2. 1980's Bob Mackie Red Sequin Dress   3. Red and White Vintage Lucite Confetti Bracelet   4. Oscar de la Renta Designer Vintage Garter Belt   5. Red Patent Leather Scalloped Edge Shoes   6. Sue Leslie 1960's Raspberry Pink Dress   7. Vintage Valentine Heart Handkerchief   8. Givenchy Pale Pink Strappy Heels   9. 1960's Pink and Gold Sparkle Vintage Dress   10. Koret Pink Leather Handbag with Circle Handle   11. Pink Agate Victorian Necklace   12. 1930's Vintage Peach Silk and Lace Slip   13. Christian Dior Vintage Strappy Gold Sandals   14. Vintage Sonia Rykiel Pink Studded Leather Belt   15. 1960's Black and Pink Plaid Coat   16. Mother of Pearl Vintage Dance Card   17. NWT Madeira Floral Handkerchief   18. Bright Pink Vintage Leather Gloves   19. Vintage Pink Alligator Peep Toe Heels   20. 1980's Purple Suede Studded Heels   21. Rare Maud Frizon Shoulder Bag with Pom Poms   22. 1980's Vintage Christian Dior Purple Bow Dress   23. Signed Vintage Valentine Handkerchief

2. SaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSave

On this particular afternoon, amidst the gorgeous fashion editorials and human interest pieces, the ads jumped off the page in a fascinating way.

After the third or fourth issue, a common theme could be traced: skin care, makeup, weight loss, and... WIGS!

When you read about the history of wigs, the evolution moves from the Egyptians to other ancient civilizations, and on to King Louis XIII who was presumably bald. Various hair pieces and elaborate wigs were popular among French and other European royalty into the 18th century, becoming a part of the British court system that still exists today. Black women have used wigs throughout the entire 20th century, but other wig styles dropped in popularity at the beginning of the 20th century, with many people opting for natural hair styles.

That was until 1968, when there was a huge rise in wig sales. Mass produced acrylic wigs burst on the scene for the first time and quickly oversold their handmade predecessor. These wigs arrived at the perfect time, offering a cheaper, washable accessory that was up to the challenge of keeping up with the quickly changing styles of the time.

This wig boom was evident in the advertisements of the time, showing off the endless possibilities for these fun and exciting tresses.

Kanekalon acrylic wig ad featured in Vogue, March 1, 1971

I can see the appeal of these affordable accessories! You could change your look in an instant, going from waist-length braids to a mod pixie in minutes without committing to a big cut.

You could pick out and order your favorite styles right out of the magazine!

Various Mail-In Wig Advertisements

Who was the ultimate hair chameleon? The one and only Diana Ross.

From au naturale, to brilliant bouffant wigs, Diana Ross is the queen of hair.

Since the 1980's, the wig itself seems to have completely dropped out of modern advertisements. Hair extensions and their ability to quickly turn a short bob into luscious locks have taken their place, offering a more natural look.

I can't wait to see the next stage of hair adornment, and perhaps a resurgence of these creative and fun accessories! Which wig would you want?SaveSaveSaveSaveSav

Sometimes, we get obsessed.  Sometimes it's a certain color, fabric or pattern, and sometimes it's a particular era or designer.  But, for a while now, it's been caftans, (or is it kaftans)? I think both ways are acceptable, but however you spell it, once you start learning about the caftan, you might find that you become a little obsessed too!

15th Century Ottoman Empire Kaftan from the Topkapi Palace Museum 

The kaftan has a very long history but we will make this the abbreviated version! The caftan was considered a very prestigious garment during the reign of the Ottoman empire in Mesopotamia, the ancient region in the eastern Mediterranean that included today’s Iraq, and parts of modern-day Iran, Syria and Turkey.  The type of fabric used, the details, and the amount of work put into the kaftan indicated a person's social status. 

Kaftan from Topkapi Palace Museum Istanbul

The finer, more elaborate kaftans were worn by people of a higher rank or by those who were particularly close to or favored by a Sultan. 

Sultans would keep a variety of kaftans in their homes for guests and the way they felt about you often determined the kind of kaftan you would be given. If a Sultan didn't like you, he might give you a kaftan made more simply or of a more common fabric. I like to think of it as having handbags in your home to give to guests, some get a Birkin and some get..well, anything other than a Birkin.  

In the early part of the 20th century, Mario Fortuny was inspired while visiting Northern Africa to design a sleeveless tunic, called an aba, (shown above) that is very similar to those used in the Arab world. He then went on to design a wide variety of caftans inspired by different regions.

Fortuny 1910, 1920's & 1930's caftans Indianapolis Museum of Art & MET

Starting in the 1960's, the caftan became popular once again in the western world when progressive designers started creating them in new ways. Women found them to be liberating and embraced them wholeheartedly. Something that had been around for hundreds of years became new and fresh for thousands of women around the world.

Halston Caftan Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco circa 1975

Emilio Pucci circa 1970 Bob Krieger photograph

Some of the first, most prolific caftan designers during the 60's, 70's and 80's were Halston, Zandra Rhodes, Emilio Pucci, Thea Porter and Oscar de la Renta.

Thea Porter Caftan Museum of Fine Arts Boston Circa 1969

Thea Porter caftan Circa 1973 The Museum at FIT

Zandra Rhodes Caftan circa 1969 Victoria and Albert Museum

Circa 1969 Oscar de la Renta caftans The Museum at FIT

Oscar de la Renta circa 1982 Kent State Museum 

You couldn't open a fashion magazine without seeing a different caftan created in some variation of silk, brocade, velvet, or cotton. Of course, models like Veruschka von Lehndorff did a lot to made the new caftans look glamorous and ultra modern.

Veruschka in Dior

Veruschka circa 1965 in Emilio Pucci 

But perhaps no two celebrities did more for caftans than the beautiful Princess Grace of Monaco and Elizabeth Taylor.

Princess Grace of Monaco in caftan designed by Madame Gres

Marc Bohan for Dior Caftan owned by Princess Grace of Monaco

Princess Grace in Pucci Caftan dress

Christie's display of Elizabeth Taylor Caftans

Elizabeth Taylor circa 1967 photographed by Henry Clarke for Vogue

And the rest, as they say, is history! Caftans continue to be popular and the vintage pieces are even more desirable!  So whether you spell caftan with a C or a K, embrace your inner Liz or Grace and find the right one to add to your wardrobe. After all, something that has been around for 600 years is definitely worth considering! 

Vintage Caftan dress with statement sleeves

Oscar de la Renta floral vintage caftan

Silk Chiffon Sheer vintage caftan

Balmain 2 Piece Dress and Vintage Caftan

Isabell Gerhart Vintage Caftan and Slip Dress

1970s Silk Floral Vintage Caftan

If you lived in them, know exactly what that means.  But, how do those people who were children during the decade even know what defined 1990's style? Well, since most of us get our clues about vintage fashion from movies and television shows, take a snowy or rainy day and catch up on our top 10 small and big screen favorites that will forever immortalize 1990's fashion.

10. Twin Peaks - A 1990-91 An oh so eerie Woodland Mystery in the misty Northwest.

Grunge meets debutantes (Lara Flynn Boyle and Sheryl Lee)

Sultry slouchy tops  (Lara Flynn Boyle)

Sweater Girls (Laura Flynn Boyle and Sheryl Lee)

9. Northern Exposure 1990-95 A small town doctor and the eccentric community of a small Alaskan town.

Oversized lumberjack chic (Peggy Lipton and Mädchen Amick)

Rugged floral country mix (Janine Turner, Rob Morrow, Barry Corbin, Cynthia Geary, John Cullum, Darren E. Burrows, and John Corbett.

8. Pulp Fiction 1994 - An American neo-noir crime film written and directed by Quentin Tarantino

White blouses and All things Uma - doesn't everything she wears in every decade becomes a fashion must? (Uma Thurman and John Travolta).

7. Ally McBeal 1997-2002 Oddball lawyers with style

Monochromatic Minimalists (Robert Downey Jr. and Calista Flockhart).

(Greg Germann, Portia de Rossi, Lisa Nicole Carlson, Calista Flockhart, and Jane Krakowski).

6. My So Called Life 1994-95 Pittsburgh high school emotional teenagers with classic grunge style

Florals with tights  (Claire Danes)

Plaid flannel and stripes (Claire Danes and Jared Leno).

Pastels, florals, denim and buffalo plaid (Claire Danes and A.J. Langer).

5. Buffy The Vampire Slayer 1997-2003 Battling vampires and demons in heels

Summer knee high boots , florals, and plaids (Alexander Harris, Rupert Giles, Sarah Michelle Gellar, Charisma Carpenter and Alyson Hannigan).

Mixed patterns, short skirts and animal prints (Alyson Hannigan, Sarah Michelle Gellar, Charisma Carpenter, and Alexander Harris).

4. Beverly Hills 90210 1990-2000 Navigating high school and college life in the right zip code.

Colorful tees, denim, denim and more denim! (Ian Ziering, Jennie Garth, Tori Spelling, Brian Austin Green, Gabrielle Carteris, Jason Priestley, Shannen Doherty and Luke Perry) 

Floral shirts,skorts, pastels, ankle socks and yes, more denim.

3. Friends 1994-2004 10 years of friends rotating romances including a chef, a struggling actor, a masseuse, a palentologist and a waitress wearing clothes from designers they could never afford in real life!

Florals, pinafore dresses, monochromatic separates and stripes. (David Schwimmer, Lisa Kudrow, Matthew Perry, Jennifer Aniston, Matt LeBlanc and Courtney Cox).

Ethnic prints and more denim

Embroidered day wear, spaghetti straps and floral ties.

2. 10 Things I Hate About You 1999 - Angsty sibling rivalry and high school romance in quintessential Taming of the Shrew - 90's style.

Belly shirts, platform flip flops and Ed Hardy style prints (Susan May Pratt, David Krumholtz, Gabrielle Union, Andrew Keegan, Julia Stiles, Heath Ledger, Larisa Oleynik, and Joseph Gordon-Levitt).

Slip dresses

And our most influential fashion film pick is..

1. Clueless 1995 - A Jane Austin's Emma as a valley girl in 90's Beverly Hills.

Sheer knee socks and argyle (Alicia Silverstone)

Plaids, vests, and statement cuffs (Alicia Silverstone, Brittany Murphy and Stacey Dash).

Berets, minis, and tartans

Plaid on plaid

A-line minis and untucked shirts with vests

So, go ahead, embrace the 90's - as with all decades, they had their hits and misses, so pick the right trend to incorporate into your wardrobe!  Maybes some of these movies and television shows will be just the inspiration you need!

Shop for 1990's vintage clothing at Dressing Vintage!

A lot of people are tired of the traditional Christmas films.  How many times can a person watch "It's a Wonderful life" and does anyone really want to watch black and white movies anymore?

Holiday Inn 1942 Costumes Designed by Edith Head

For me, those holiday classics hold memories, simplicity, and happily ever afters that just make everything seem a little brighter in an often times very gray world.  Colorizing didn't make these movies more interesting to me - I could already feel the colors without seeing them.

Designing clothing for black and white films was much more difficult than one would imagine.  It was essential to use the proper contrast and details to make the clothing have a defined presence in the film.  

"When you do a black-and-white film, and remember I have worked in both, you have to depend on two things. You have to depend on extreme contrast, to get variation in light and shade. Then you have to be much more intricate in construction of clothes and much more elaborate in accessories, decoration, embroidery and things of that sort.…you take a girl in a perfectly simple beige, blue, or rose dress or sweater and skirt, with nothing on it – just a beautiful, glowing color, and it’s beautiful. It’s magic on the screen. In black-and-white, here’s a perfectly beautiful stark grey figure with no delineation, no line in between." Edith Head - The American Institute Seminars

It's A Wonderful Life 1946 - Costumes designed by Edward Stevenson

I have had the great to honor and privilege to work with some of today's best costume designers on major films over the years and I can tell you that I've gained an incredible amount of respect for what they do. They have so many factors to consider including; the script itself, the art director's vision, the director's vision, the accuracy of the time period, the location and time of year of the film, and the personalities, sizes and appearances of the actors and characters themselves.

Back when most of the classic films were made, the costume designers weren't as concerned with being period correct as they were with appealing to the style sense of the modern day audience. It's a Wonderful Life is a great example of that. Mary's dress here hardly looks like it is from the 1920's.  It was also common for the studio to recycle the costumes and use them in later films. The costumes didn't hold the same importance or value that they do today.  As a result, many of the originals don't exist anymore, or were changed beyond recognition for re-use.

So when colorizing films, unless someone is still alive who can verify the colors used, color choices are based on educated guesses.  

But for me, there is something really magical about black and white films.  I think it allows the viewer to see the film without distraction.  The clothing is still so fascinating, and in some cases, the details are even more pronounced.  

In a hectic, over produced, over scheduled, over screened world, the escape to the simplicity of black and white movies can bring a calming, welcomed relief.

Maureen O'Hara and Natalie Wood in Miracle on 34th Street 1947 Costumes designed by Kay Nelson

Being someone who considers aesthetics as essential as air, I care a great deal about color, don't get me wrong!  But I can appreciate and soak in black and white films for their own aesthetic value and I find the contrast of the films to be truly beautiful. 

Once technicolor became the norm, it was hard for most people to go back to watching black and white on the screen again.  After all, when Dorothy landed in Oz, we all felt that color magic that transported us to a brighter world.

Judy Garland in Meet Me in St. Louis 1944 Costumes designed by Irene Sharaff

When Vincent Minelli used saturated color in "Meet me in St. Louis" in 1944, it was a technicolor masterpiece that was only second in popularity to "Gone with the Wind."

By the time White Christmas came along, we no longer needed to wonder about the color of Rosemary Clooney and Vera Ellen's feathered fans - we already knew they were blue.

White Christmas 1954 Costumes designed by Edith Head

Designing for color films took on new challenges for costume designers that they embraced and met.   Color gave fashion on film new meaning, but I'm not convinced that it was the color that makes us still pine for Grace Kelly's wardrobe or if it was the way she twirled into a room and carried herself with such.. well, grace.

Grace Kelly in Dial M for Murder 1954 Costumes designed by Edith Head

And I'm not sure that Audrey Hepburn needed color - ever.

Audrey Hepburn Breakfast at Tiffany's 1961 Costumes by Edith Head and Givenchy

My favorite designer, Gilbert Adrian, designed for film before there was a category for costume design at the Academy Awards and he never needed color to showcase his extraordinary talent.

Jean Harlow Dinner at Eight in Gilbert Adrian gown

For me, there is still magic in the history and simplicity of black and white movies.  The Christmas movies especially hold timeless truths that can't be altered by any color method or fashion trend.  Whether it be a man who gave up his dreams to save something bigger than himself or a little girl who believes in Santa Claus, there is always a nugget of goodness to be found. 

So, whether you watch them in the colorized or black and white versions, let these timeless classics inspire you to take the time to be kind to others and to enjoy a simple moment this holiday season.  Put away your screens, make some tea and maybe even lasso a moon for the one you love!

Everyone knows that person. You know the one. The relative or friend who buys themselves the latest trend gadget or perfectly-them sweater a week before Christmas, and you are left scrambling to find the gift receipt.

Our answer to that tricky loved one (and anyone else you want a special gift for) is the Dressing Vintage Gift Guide! When you get someone a vintage Christmas present, you are not only supporting ethical small business, you are giving a quality, unique, one-of-a-kind, perfectly thoughtful present.

Vintage Gifts for Her

Buying vintage online can be tricky, especially as a gift for someone else. What you really need are the bust, waist, and hip measurements (and often other various other lengths and widths, depending on the garment) in order to ensure the perfect fit.

Those measurements can be very hard to procure without your loved ones becoming very suspicious (or downright alarmed). 

Fortunately, accessories are (for the most part) one size fits all, and fit most budgets. Most accessories are under $100, and a lot these exquisite gifts are under $50! That's why our vintage holiday gift guide comes from our large assortment of vintage accessories!

Vintage Jewelry

Vintage necklaces with precious metals or gemstones make an incredible gift for women of all ages. A vintage choker is the perfect special gift for a teenage girl or girl in her 20's, and 1920's Deco necklaces are fun and unique pieces for women with fun, retro taste. Gold and silver are classic choices for women of all ages.

1. Gold Mesh Scarf Tie 2. Gold Mesh Choker with Turquoise 3.Hattie Carnegie Gold Choker 4. Edwardian Amethyst Crystal 5. Silver Choker 6. Miriam Haskall Multi Strand Necklace 7. Blue Deco Necklace

Necklaces aren't the only vintage jewelry gift option, there are also earrings, hair accessories, fur clips, bracelets, shoe clips, belt/sash buckles, brooches and more! With so many options of colored stones and metals, you are sure to find something special for your someone special! 

From L-R: Black Deco Dangle Earrings, Tortoise Hair Comb, Gold Fur Clips, Gold Ball Bracelet, Rhinestone Shoe Clips, Enamel Belt Buckle, Rhinestone Brooch

Vintage Scarves

From novelty scarves to designer silk, there is a vintage scarf for everyone on your gift list. I love scarves because of their versatility. They can be knotted around the neck, worn loosely on the shoulders, tied like a headband, tied on a purse strap, or framed to admire like a piece of art.

From L-R: Christian Dior Vintage Scarf, Givenchy Vintage Scarf, Chanel Vintage Scarf, Valentino Vintage Scarf

Vintage Gloves

The look and feel of vintage leather gloves cannot be beat. Whether silk lined or suede, you can't help but feel luxurious in a pair of vintage gloves!

Top Row L-R: Hot Pink Suede, Black Open Side Suede, Eggplant Silk Lined Leather, Mustard Leather, Black Leather Open Work

Bottom Row L-R: Baby Blue Leather, Brown Leather Silk Lined, Cherry Red Leather

Vintage Hats

There is a hat for every season and every style! Hats add a sense of flair and sophistication to every outfit, while also serving as an essential staple of the winter wardrobe. These faux and real fur hats and velvet berets will keep your loved ones ears and head warm all winter long!

From L-R: YSL Brown Velvet Beret, Brown Mink Fur Hat, Mod Faux Fur Hat with Laces, Sheared Mink Vintage Hat, Velvet Aldridge Hat with Bow

The Dressing Vintage team is heading to Scandinavia this winter in search of vintage treasures, so be sure to place all orders by noon on December 15th to ensure your packages arrive in time for Christmas!

And keep your eyes peeled for Dressing Vintage Blog posts from Sweden for upcoming shop listings!

Happy Holidays!

Katie

SaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSav

Pact has a great collection of basics made without dyes and pesticides and they use no sweatshops and no child labor. They mention on their site that conventional cotton uses about 16% of the world’s insecticides and 7% of pesticides and that approximately 20% of industrial water pollution in the world comes from the treatment and dyeing of textiles. If you need leggings, underwear, or simple tops, they are a great company to support!

Zady is a website we also really love! It has a great collection of separates and some fabulous day dresses that are all very well made of sustainable fibers. The other thing we like is that they have a very specific mission statement and a list of new standards that the entire fashion industry should adopt.  If you are new to learning about ethical fashion, you can visit their new standards page and learn about why we need to be more aware of what and how much we are buying when we shop.  They recommend, for example, that you buy vintage cashmere or alpaca instead of new cashmere. You can read about cashmere on their site.

Kowtow is a fashion forward ethical brand that focuses on organic fair trade clothing. Kowtow only uses 100% fair trade certified cotton and they also have a detailed description of what adhering to fair trade practices covers, including:  a sustainable livelihood for cotton producers, funding projects that benefit the community (business and agricultural training, drilling bore holes for clean water, building schools and clinics), developing long-term relationships with buyers, democratically run farms with respect for the rights of farmers and farm workers, and sustainable agriculture with a goal of environmental protection.

Ethica is a shopping site that curates ethically made fashion and we love their selections. Their prices are affordable and they encourage shoppers to learn about what they are buying on their own and not rely on blanket statements from companies. They have ethical standards that include; made in the USA, sustainable, trade not aid, handcrafted, and/or vegan.  Each standard has a philosophy statement - which is great to see.  We love the way they distinguish charity from the goals of ethical fashion commerce - "the goal of commerce in the context of ethical fashion is more long-term: to create sustainable employment opportunities that can permanently lift people out of poverty. The brands listed under our Trade Not Aid category employ artisans and workers in developing countries in fair-practice settings, aiming to nurture a demand for their skills and empower their communities to prosper."

Livia Firth at BAFTA Night London Fashion Week September 2016

There are many other great sites that have wonderful, fashionably chic clothing to wear to work or to play.  Eileen Fischer is doing a lot of great work with her Green Eileen program. They are focusing on the life cycle of their garments, allowing customers to both sell and buy their loved pieces of Eileen's past collections. Stella McCartney, of course, is a prominent name in the ethical fashion world if you have a larger budget.  Of course, there are the celebrities like Livia Firth (Collin Firth's wife), with her "green carpet challenge" and Emma Watson, who is creating a line for Zady, who are trailblazers for bringing awareness to the importance of buying sustainable clothing.

Zady's Emma Watson inspired Cable Knit Sweater

But when it comes to more formal clothing, the choices are limited and/or unaffordable. That's where we come in!  Not only are vintage designer pieces better made than many of today's, they are not adding to the carbon footprint.  If you buy less but buy well, you can build a wardrobe of sustainable pieces that are super stylish, timeless and made to last. Here are some ethical, sustainable choices for your next party or soiree!

Luxurious Vintage Velvets!

Left to Right:  Oscar de la Renta, Dynasty Hong Kong, 1930's, Givenchy

L-R Yves Saint Laurent, 1930's, Vintage Opera Coat, Yves Saint Laurent

Dramatic Reds!

L-R 1970's, Red Cheongsam, Red Satin With Wrap, Oscar de la Renta

L-R Frank Usher, Bob Mackie, Jacques Heim

Fanciful Florals and Prints that pop! 

L-R Tina Leser, Nat Kaplan, Isabell Gerhart, Strapless Pink and Black

L-R 1970's Dead Stock, Oscar de la Renta, Roger Millot for Fred Perlberg Bill Blass

Glorious Greens!

      
L-R Victor Costa, 1960's Swirl Carolyne Roehm,  Victor Costa

L-R Iridescent Green 1950's, Lillie Rubin 1980's, Philip Hulitar Green Satin

Fancy Pants!

L-R Thierry Mugler Tuxedo, Oscar de la Renta, 

1970's Jumpsuit Oscar de la Renta

 
Left to Right: Hostess Outfit, George Stavropoulos

Shimmer and Shine!

L-R Space Age 1960's,  Krist 

L-R William Pearson, 1980's Gold Lame Dots

Left to Right: Victor Costa,   Michael Novarese,

Winter White Splendor!

L-R Ivory silk Cheongsam and Nina Ricci 

Vintage 2 piece evening ensemble with a silk chiffon beaded dress and a heavily beaded evening coat with white mink fur cuffs

So, this year, as you enter party season, (which we hope is all year long), we hope you will consider shining brightly in vintage fashion! Whether you choose our vintage Michael Novarese gold ballgown that reportedly once belonged to Audrey Hepburn, or our simple silver metallic 1960's space age sheath dress, it will be the most ethical choice and definitely the most original one!  After all, you deserve to sparkle!

xo

Or maybe because we consider our inventory timeless and only continuing to increase in value as time goes by (especially since the quality of modern day clothing continues to get more and more disappointing).  

Or maybe it's because we realized that our business qualifies for the trifecta of Thanksgiving sales!

So, this year, we are taking the opportunity to reduce our inventory - we are literally bursting at the seams!  The sale will offer things that are in excellent condition, close to perfect condition, several items that need a little love, and a couple of things for study or display.  

Prices start at $25 so you are sure to find something you will love!  We will choose a few pieces that are currently on the site to add to the sale, but most are new so here is a sneak peek at just a few things that will be in the sale:

 

So, be sure to check out our close to perfect sale, it starts on Friday of course!

This holiday season, we want you to know that we are very thankful for each and every one of our customers - people who buy and appreciate vintage clothing are pretty special, but then, we are a little biased!  

We also want you to know that we think you are very close to perfect...

Have a Very Happy Thanksgiving!

Lisa and Katie

SaveSaveSave

In this episode of Empire (Season 3 Episode 2: Sin That Amends), Biz Markie woke Henson's character up by crooning his 1989 hit "Just a Friend." The floral silk kimono with rich red lining was draped over her shoulders by Lucious Lyon (Terrence Howard), as she sang along and embraced Markie.

From Biz Markie's Instagram, with Terrence Howard and Taraji P. Henson.

We love when celebrities (and the characters they play on TV) wear vintage, especially style powerhouses like Taraji! Seeing vintage clothing on screen or in print is such an incredible way for these beautiful designs and unique prints to live on forever.

See more Dressing Vintage unique, one-of-a-kind vintage kimonos here!

Save

Welcome to the Dressing Vintage guide to wearing vintage this holiday season. Whether you are a show-stopping party-hopping Glamazon, or cozy Homebody snuggled up by the fire all winter long, we have the perfect holiday wear for you!

We've searched our entire vintage clothing inventory to bring you 7 distinct winter styles that are sure to make a statement this winter.

The Traditionalist

For more traditional holiday party-goers, we have a lovely selection of red and green vintage clothing, including this Christmas red sheath dress from the late 1950's or early 1960's. The matching red coat puts the finishing touches on this classic holiday ensemble, with a beautiful green lining.

You can also deck the halls in this 1950's two piece dirndl dress, or red and green Designer Geoffrey Beene Knit Vintage Dress!

The Glamazon

For those who love everything that glitters, we have a beaded silk chiffon evening gown with a matching coat. Of course, no fabulous winter coat would be complete without the subtle touch of white mink fur cuffs. 

If shimmering metallic is more your style, we have you covered. Dazzle and shine in a 1950's Hattie Carnegie silk brocade dress, or glitz and glam in a gold lamé cocktail dress.

The Non-Conformist

Ugly Christmas sweaters not your style? Red and green make you gag? Step outside the box in this black crepe Valentino dress.

A sheer chiffon party dress with gold lamé dots or this gold lamé striped mod dress are to add some edge to your next holiday party!

The Fabulous Activist

Bundle up without compromise this holiday season! "Vegan" will be synonymous with "enchanting" in this 1960s Faux Leopard Cape!

If leopard isn't your style, try Faux Lambswool, or Faux Sealskin to help ward off winter's chill!

The Bombshell

Don't let a little chill in the air force you to hide your fabulous curves! Flaunt your figure in this Thierry Mugler Couture little black dress! You're sure to make a statement in this gorgeous dress, with exposed shoulders and unique, plunging neckline.

 For even more of a statement, try the Anne Fogarty White Wool Dress, or this form-flattering floor length Victor Costa Green Satin Evening Gown!

The Futurist

For the future-minded gal, consider donning this 1960's Space Age Silver Mod Vintage Dress in true Judy Jetson fashion.

The Homebody

Baby, it's cold outside! Stay in and cozy up to the fire in this Vintage Winter White Wool Fisherman's Sweater! When the holiday parties are over and the gorgeous gowns and fun party dresses come off, it's time for cashmere, wool, and angora!

We have cozy sweaters from all over the world, including this Rare Vintage Floral Wool Knit Sweater from Wales, and this adorable Vintage Mohair Chevron Sweater from Scotland! You can also really step into the holiday spirit in this classy Courreges Cashmere Wool Knit Snowflake Sweater.

Be sure to check out our entire Vintage Winter Wonderland Collection for even more holiday outfit inspiration!

Balenciaga Sleeves - The first five are by Irving Penn, then Henry Clarke, and Hiro Wakabayashi

This year, sleeves are the defining fashion statement and there have been some incredible examples in every runway show. From balloon sleeves to Elizabethan sleeves, modern day designers are finally rediscovering the beauty of the sleeve!  Just in time because I was starting to get bored with the same sleeve or lack of sleeves on every garment. 

Ronald Van der Kemp and Jean Paul Gaultier couture

Valentino Couture

Giambattista Valli Couture

Maison Martin Margiela and Dior Couture

But the statement sleeve is by no means a new concept, from fashion's earliest history, it's obvious that the sleeve played an important role in defining the decade's style. Queen Elizabeth the 1st of England certainly understood the powerful role a sleeve could play on the throne.  Before the 20th century, it was the royal family of each nation that set fashion trends for the rest of the country.  

Queen Elizabeth statement sleeves from the 16th Century

18th Century Sleeve Detail

So, since it looks like the sleeve isn't going away any time soon, we thought we would share some of our favorite Dressing Vintage pieces with sleeves that make just the right statement from every era of the 20th century!  If you are wondering which one will work for you, try to think more about what you feel the most comfortable wearing - dramatic pieces, oversized, slim fitting, etc. and no matter what style you decide to wear, you can find an incredible sleeve to go with it.

Subtle with a hint of romance:

1920's Vintage Beaded Dress with leg of mutton sleeves

1920's blue velvet vintage dress with leg of mutton sleeves

A Chanel Adaptation rare 1930's Vintage Dress and a 1930's blue velvet dress with shirred sleeves

Strong and defining:

Two 1940's dresses with structured sleeves Jean Andre vintage black dress and a 1950's Philip Hulitar vintage green satin dress

Elegant and glamorous:

1960's Victoria Royal Evening ensemble and 1960's beaded cardigan with white mink cuffs

 Free Spirited Chic

A George Stavropoulos vintage evening ensemble with batwing sleeves and a Bill Blass 1970's vintage silk dress with angel sleeves.

Sophisticated Drama:

A French hand painted rayon vintage 1980's dress with batwing sleeves and a Lilli Diamond black dress with fringed batwing sleeves 

Fearless with a sense of humor:

1980's statement sleeves from Tadashi, Lillie Rubin and Victor Costa

Casual but extraordinary:

Norma Kamali vintage pieces with statement sleeves

Sophisticated but unique:

1980's and 1990's examples from Claude Montana, Giorgio Armani and Yves Saint Laurent.

So this year, whether it is a leg of mutton, butterfly, princess, batwing, balloon or bishop sleeve, find something with a sleeve worth wearing that best represents your personality!  Don't be afraid to try something new, after all, if statement sleeves mattered to Balenciaga and Queen Elizabeth, we might want to give them a try!

Pale, neutral colors and minimalist lines seem to be the current aesthetic trend in the fashion world. At Dressing Vintage, we see trend as a fickle mistress, and try as we might, we can't seem to get glittering golds, rich chocolate browns, and luxurious greens out of our head. Pale, neutral backdrops don't do vintage silk chiffon dresses and gold lamé gowns justice.

Dutch and Flemish still life paintings feature flowers bursting from gold vases, ornate kitchen table scenes overflowing with food and freshly caught game, and desk scenes depicting draped fabric, burning candles and disheveled books. All these lush and vivacious scenes carry heavy symbolism and rich colors against a characteristic dark background.

Norma Kamali, Patrick Kelly, Coco Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, and the many other vintage clothing designers featured in our Fall/Winter 2016 lookbook represent some of the brilliant artisans of the fashion world. Their attention to form, color, line and texture keep their impeccably designed clothing, shoes, and accessories visually akin to fine works of art. A silk kimono or purple dress from the hands of one of these great masters is a piece of history, and refuses to be ignored.

The uncompromising commitment to beauty also allows these clothing designs to stand the test of time, blending seamlessly into a modern wardrobe.

In today's culture of throwaway fashion, created to fit a bottom line and designed to be discarded after one or two wears, we at Dressing Vintage wanted to highlight what fashion used to be, and what we hope one day it will become again. We wear and sell vintage because we see fashion as an investment in quality and ethical sustainability, without sacrificing beautiful individuality and style. 

The right vintage pieces make it impossible to blend in with the crowd. Instead of settling for becoming a piece of ornamentation, stand out as a stunning focal point wherever you go.

ENTER THE LOOKBOOK

The tribute was attended by people dressed "for Bill", as the invitation to the event had requested,  and Michael Bloomberg and Anna Wintour were two of the speakers. The fashion world's A-listers were in attendance, but it was the words of Joanna Nikas, his colleague at the Times, that touched me the most. She remembered her colleague and friend with these words, “He celebrated the people who refused to be corralled.” What a perfect description of the life work of Bill Cunningham.  

None of us really believe we are followers - we believe we are blazing our own, very unique trails, but when you really look around and maybe look directly into the mirror, you will see that the tendency to become one of the crowd has become the norm. Just look in any fashion magazine - there are "newest trends" lists, "look for less" segments and wardrobe "must haves" in every one.  Very few people are brave enough to wear something outside of the commercial box, and of those, only a handful have enough style and confidence to do it well.  Whenever I meet one, I'm definitely impressed.

Ron-Adar-Shutterstock.com

Iris Apfel is one of the more famous "rare birds" who knows herself well enough to stay far away from anything resembling a fashion trend.  But what Bill Cunningham knew, is that there are also ordinary people walking the street every day, who refuse to submit to fashion rules and trends.  It's not just the fashion fearless who have my respect, but those who refuse to let anyone tell them that their vision, dream, or heart's desire is out of line, or impossible to achieve.  Those who step outside of the corral and start a herd of one are the people I most respect.

So it's only fitting that I introduce you to one of my favorite people, who is now my business partner at Dressing Vintage, my daughter, Katie.  Before she could crawl, Katie was pulling all of the clothing out of her drawers and dressing herself in one of a kind ensembles.  She is an accomplished artist and her incredible eye for fashion is an extension of that artistic talent.  She sets trends long before they are trends and effortlessly looks more stylish than anyone in the room.

You will learn that Katie is passionate about ethical fashion and is committed to wearing clothing that honors that passion. She exclusively wears vintage, ethically produced, and/or second hand clothing and even chose to wear 2 different vintage wedding gowns on her wedding day!  

I am so excited that Katie is now a part of this vintage adventure and you will be able to see her influence immediately as she is the truly talented part of this mother-daughter team!  She designed our new website, styled and shot the Look book photos and created our new logo entirely on her own.  My passion for fashion is really more about its history, provenance and cultural importance, but Katie has always been about style.

With his astute lens, Bill Cunningham could spot people who had the courage and confidence to abandon herd mentality and not only dress, but think for themselves. If he had seen Katie on the streets of New York, or spent even 5 minutes talking to her, he would have recognized that she was part of that endangered group of people he so appreciated...those that dare to be individuals.  Welcome Katie!

It's almost that time of year! Time to put away the gray and browns from that cold winter and bring out the pinks, blues, yellows and greens of Spring!  We love Spring at Dressing Vintage because it's a great time to showcase all of the amazing vintage dresses that are bursting with flowers and made from every shade of pastel fabric you could imagine! If you like sweet florals, you might like the first vintage dress with its pink sash!  If you love roses, then the 1950's vintage dress that Sarah is wearing would be perfect! If you prefer multi colored florals, then the vintage Lanz dress would be just right for you!  We even have Spring accessories to coordinate with whatever dress you choose!

If shades of pink and blue bring out your eyes, you are in luck - we have a lot of options! Do you love the 1920's? Then the smock pleated embroidered vintage 20s dress shown above is for you!  Are you looking for a pretty cotton vintage dress under $100? The Nelly Don pink vintage dress with puff sleeves is a dream!  If you prefer skirts, then the lace over blue vintage skirt with the blue vintage blouse would make you twirl! Do you want a sopisticated vintage designer ensemble? Then look no further than the blue Vintage Givenchy Dress and Coat ensemble. You can find just about everything for that Spring easter egg hunt or brunch with friends on the Dressing Vintage website.

If yellow or white are just the right colors for your skin tone, you might fall in love with these pieces! These breezy yellow cotton dresses are timeless - the Betty Barclay vintage dress has white rick rack trim and the yellow eyelet vintage Jerry Gilden dress  has just a touch of blue! I particularly love the dress that Sarah is modeling - a 2 piece white cotton pique Vintage Carlye dress with peek a boo lace at the waistline!

Is purple your color? You might love this sleeveless vintage J. Harlan 1950's cotton dress or you might want to try this vintage Valentino purple linen 2 piece dress. If you are brave enough to wear some bold florals that pop like this vintage Tina Leser jumpsuit that Gabby is wearing, then wear it with confidence - you are surely to be the only one wearing it at the party!

So if you are looking for some color to brighten up your closet and your mood, you can shop by color on our site and find the shade of Spring that suits you best! Happy Spring!

When most people think of Amy Winehouse, they don't think of the pretty girl from the UK who loved Frank Sinatra, Tony Bennett and Dinah Washington. Most people don't remember the powerhouse, supernatural voice or the performer, who in her own words, became "a black man in a girl's body" when she went onstage. No, when people hear the name "Amy Winehouse" they have an automatic "go to" response - Rehab - and the resounding "No No No." Their minds conjure up the multitude of tabloid images that captured the last few years of her life. They remember photos that became evidence of years substance abuse and YouTube videos of alcohol infused erratic behavior and performances where she could barely stand. They might even replay the news footage in their minds of her body being carried out of her home on a coroner's stretcher. 

I won't show any of those photographs here, I don't think that those years, ravaged by the devastating cruelty of addiction, should define Amy Winehouse, her legacy or her life. We all know how that story ended. We all know about the whole Blake thing. Hopefully by now though, everyone is on the same page about her talent. Her musical genius is undisputed and well respected by anyone who knows music, and to say that she was one of the most talented singer/songwriters of her generation, or perhaps of any generation, isn't an exaggeration. Throughout this post, I've included a few videos of some of Amy's performances that I believe best show her talent, in case you aren't convinced.

Amy Winehouse "Take The Box" Wembley Arena 2004 - 21 years old

I'm more interested in the reasons and thoughts behind the transformation of that young girl with the guitar. When Amy appeared on Never Mind The Buzzcocks, a British TV show in 2009, the host, Simon Amstell, made a joke about her drinking and afterwards, when he saw that she didn't take it too well, he said, "We used to be so close, " and Amy replied, "We were close" and after stroking his face says, "she's dead." Then, when he goes on to comment about wanting to bring back the "old amy" she says again, defiantly, "NO..she's dead."

So what propelled a young, talented musician to go from being a girl who seemed only interested in music and unconcerned with fashion, to become an instant worldwide fashion icon? After Black to Black was released, Amy's new look became one of the most recognizable in the world. People debated as to whether or not she deserved to be an icon, fashion magazines featured her style, and young girls worldwide copied her look. The new Amy even inspired Karl Lagerfeld to have Chanel models wear beehives in a 2008 runway show.

That girl with a guitar wanted to be known for her music.  Her voice was so unique and had such a genuine tone and quality that she was confident in her ability to produce beautiful music, it was a part of her DNA.  But being famous was another story. When you are famous, it's not just your music that's on display - the world wants a piece of your soul. Amy's childhood friend Juliette Ashby once said;

"When we were young teenagers she wanted to be a roller waitress, a writer or a comedian. Fame wasn't an incentive for her. Music was.."

Amy Winehouse "Teach me Tonight" (Hootenanny, 2004)

So why did the old Amy have to die? Maybe an already insecure girl, who suffered from bulimia (and maybe a little ADHD?), and enjoyed getting high and partying with her friends, simply couldn't handle the side effects of fame. Though she was confident in her musical ability, maybe she wasn't so confident in who she really was.  No longer playing in her preferred venue of small clubs, and no longer simply admired for her talent, she was forced to perform a different kind of stage. The brutal stage of social media, paparazzi, talk shows, and tabloids that followed her every move was more than she could handle.

I never met Amy Winehouse but I believe her style metamorphosis allowed her to present another version of herself to the public, keeping her genuine self private. Many of Amy's friends and colleagues have mentioned Amy's remarkable intelligence. So to think that Amy's style was haphazard or an accident is to underestimate who she was. Just as Michael Jackson carefully created his gloved hand or ankle length pants, Amy was in control of her style and it was she who decided that the old Amy had to die. So the new Amy's style became a physical manifestation of the things that she loved the most in life.

1. Innocence & Romance - Amy loved the idea of all or nothing romance. She loved the songs that were about total abandonment for love and was inspired by 50's and 60's girl groups like The Ronettes and the theatrical style of their performances. The juxtaposition of the style of an innocent musical era mixed with her own, written from a place of pain and loss became an important trademark.Even her concert stage was reminiscent of vintage music, and the Amy Winehouse beehive became one of her most recognizable style elements. She used to say that the more insecure she felt, the higher her beehive would be teased.

2. Drama - Amy loved old movies and was a fan of Elizabeth Taylor. Her eyes had that Cleopatra cat-like drama that Liz wore so well! She could hide whatever her eyes might have revealed behind that thick, black liner.

The Day She Came to Dingle - Amy Winehouse "Love is a Losing Game" live on Other Voices, 2006 - Ireland 

3. Love- Amy loved people. She was very close to her grandmother, Cynthia and many people say that losing her was the beginning of Amy's troubles. She had approximately 14 tattoos, many of which were symbols that reminded her of the people she loved. They were mostly vintage artwork including the one Cynthia. Even her familiar head scarves might have been a tribute to Cynthia as a young woman in the 1940's.

Amy Winehouse and Paul Weller Don't Go To Strangers 2006

One of my favorites - Amy Winehouse singing a cover of Donny Hathaway's "More Than You'll Ever Know" at De La Semaine on September 15, 2007

4. Another time - Vintage style short dresses replaced the old Amy's simple jeans and shirts. The stage dresses all conjured up images of different decades. She loved Jazz singers like Sarah Vaughan and Dinah Washington and the times they represented. She said many times that she was born too late and her dresses, though modern and updated, definitely brought back memories of another time.

Amy Winehouse and Tony Bennett "Body and Soul" 2011

Amy Winehouse only held on to the new Amy image for a short time, before it started to become a caricature of the original design.  It protected her for a time, but as the addictions became stronger, the beehive became messier as the wall of style crumbled and left her in ruins. Then the world unfairly tried to make the whole of who Amy was nothing more than a puddle of mistakes and bad choices.

The world should have all been gentler, kinder, and more compassionate to Amy Winehouse. As a mother myself,  I sometimes think about Amy's mother, Janis, who, I'm sure, could always see the real Amy underneath the facade, and I wish I could tell her that there are people who know that there was more to Amy than talent and a beehive. She was somebody's little girl and she was loved. Toward the end, beyond the well publicized tragedies, there were glimpses of her former talent re-emerging, including her duet with Tony Bennett. I like to believe that if she had lived long enough to get well, a new, better Amy would have been resurrected from the ashes. She wouldn't have been as much of an iconic fashion idol as the invented Amy, or as innocent as the old Amy, and she might have not been as huge of a superstar, but she would have been Amy, once again. Or perhaps, for the very first time. Sadly, we will never have the opportunity to know for sure.

Last night, The Costume Institute held its benefit gala for the spring 2015 exhibition, China: Through the Looking Glass. The Metropolitan Museum of Art rolls out the red carpet for this event and fashion lovers around the world wait in anticipation to see what the A listers and Hollywood stars will be wearing. 

The usual little left to the imagination fan favorite suspects were there - Kim Kardashian in Roberto Cavelli, Beyonce in Givenchy and Jennifer Lopez in Versace. The internet went crazy - they can do no wrong, evidently.

I can guarantee you that no matter what these ladies wear, they will be called brave, bold, fierce, etc. the next day by the fashion "professionals."I always feel a little like I'm out of touch in terms of the excitement over these dresses!  I feel like Cher already did this look in her Bob Mackie gowns for so many years, and it gets to a point where it becomes a competition of who can wear the least amount of fabric. JLO's dress did have a jeweled dragon and was in a lovely shade of red, which also could be a nod to Chinese fashion, in general, so that was a good thing. 

What I find the most interesting is that the Met gala theme was 'China through the looking glass' and there were only a handful of people who seemed to pay homage to it.  In years past, the theme was much more of a statement on the red carpet.  Though she was generally panned for the look, I appreciated Sarah Jessica Parker's ensemble including a dress she designed in collaboration with H&M and the dramatic head piece by milliner Philip Treacy. Since Chinese textiles and traditions can be incorporated into fashion in so many ways, Even though they might be considered safe choices, I was happy to see the people below wearing fashions that honored China in their own way.

There were some people who I think looked stunningly beautiful, even if they didn't represent the design elements of China, including Kate Hudson in Michael Kors, Kendall Jenner in Calvin Klein, Anne Hathaway in Ralph Lauren, and Jessica Chastain in Givenchy. 

She took my breath away in a fur trimmed yellow gold couture cape created by Chinese designer Guo Pei with incredible embroidery.

Finally, I thought, someone has gotten it right! Rihanna obviously did her designer homework and wore a gown by China's couture designer Guo Pei. Pei's gowns will actually be in the exhibit itself! But what happened on Twitter and Instagram? Memes of Rihanna's dress included pizza, omelettes, melted cheese, big bird, Sponge Bob Square pants, etc.. People started the "crazy Rihanna" trend, as they have in the past.  But I, once again feeling out of touch, thought she nailed it.

Rihanna paid tribute to one of China's most talented and celebrated contemporary designers by wearing a Guo Pei cape to the gala.  Not only did she choose a dramatic style statement, she chose a couture piece created by an ACTUAL Chinese designer. Who is Guo Pei?

Guo Pei has been compared to Alexander McQueen, and her avant garde fashions are truly theatrical fantasy at its best. She started designing clothing at the age of 19 and in 1986, after graduating from college, she became one of the first high fashion designers in China. 

Pei's designs always include some traditional Chinese elements mixed perfectly with modern influences. By combining the beautiful embroidery and designs of China with Western cuts, her fashions have become some of the most sought after in China and around the world. 

Guo Pei is the first Chinese haute couture designer, and like McQueen and John Galliano, her work is more like art with its opulent detailing, intricate hand work,  and innovative design.

Guo Pei is the most renowned name in China’s fashion industry and designs Couture clothing in Beijing through her Atelier “Mei Gui Fang”. Her imaginative creations take hundreds of craftsmen, who she trains herself, to bring to life. Her pieces are sewn entirely by hand and some dresses require over 50,000 hours to complete. 

Guo Pei was named as one of China's top 10 designers in 1995, one of China's top 5 designers in 1996, one of the 100 most creative people in business in 2011, and was given the award of Famous Chinese Female who leads to a new lifestyle, by China Women Organization in 2007. So, comparing her masterpiece to pizza is ignorant and insulting.

So, thank you Rihanna, for being "crazy" enough to put an incredible amount of thought into your outfit. By doing so, you paid homage to China and to emerging Chinese designers. But most importantly, thank you for wearing something that will make the children and teenagers watching you today actually want to visit the museum themselves. Bravo.