The past weekend was a fast, fun and exciting with Shauna's aunt, uncle and cousins in Avila Beach. Every night while sitting on their beautiful patio overlooking the Pacific (see above photo) we enjoyed home cooked meals and wine. On Sunday night I opened another wine from the Willamette Valley, a 2006 Pinot Noir from Love & Squalor, it was simply amazing. I have been trying to find out more information on the wine but could not, so I found the winemakers email and shot off some questions. When I get a few more details I will give a full report on this small and stellar winery, but in the meantime here are my thoughts on how it tasted.

The wine was a translucent and vibrant cherry red just like a good Pinot should be, do not get me started on "Pinots" that are black as ink (FYI: Those are not 100% Pinot Noir). The nose was bright, forward and full of life; aromas of mixed cherries, red plums, plump raspberries, rhubard, black tea, dried leaves and mixed baking spices. The palate was as vibrant as the nose with plush fruit on first sip, then a complex mixture of earth, savory spices and a follow up of more fruit. The wine was a pleasure to drink and was consumed way too quickly. It is $24 per bottle...really a great deal for such a good wine.

It is always a pleasure to be poured a glass of wine that from the first moment you know you are in safe hands. I may taste and drink more wine than most, I generally taste mediocre or boring wines, I accept that to get to the good stuff you have to wade through a ton of crap. This week's wine is a true gem, beautiful, sexy, and stop you in mid-sentence wine, Le Macioche Rosso di Montalcino 2007. Last week I received an email from a guest looking for a few Rosso's that he had seen in the Wall Street Journal. I pulled up all the Rosso's that we sell and I was depressed to see that we only had a few and I was not pleased by the quality we had, so I made a phone call. The next day four Rossos, plus one Texan and the owner of a wine company were at my desk pouring a line up of wine that made the rest of my meetings that day seem horrible.

Wine: Le Macioche
Region: Rosso di Montalcino DOC (Tuscany, Italy)
Grape: Sangiovese
Vintage:  2007 (image is not the wine I tried)
Retail: $25 to $28
Fun Fact: Le Macioche is a more traditional producer using only large 1,000 liter oak barrels, so there is no overt oak aromas of flavors in the wine.
Tasting Notes: The moment the wine is in the glass there is a beautiful translucent cherry red color that warms the room and makes you want Rosso colored glasses. The nose is so captivating that you may never want to take a sip (but you should). A variety of cherries were the first aromas to hit me: sour, Bing and Rainier. As the cherries kept filling my office, aromas of red plums, hints of almost ripe blueberries, dried flowers, a bouquet of dried herbs (rosemary, sage, thyme) and dried tobacco leaf greeted me with each sniff. The wine does not explode out of the glass it dances a ballet for your senses. I was so taken by its elegance, purity and beauty that once the wine hit my lips I knew I was closer to Nirvana. The palate continues the theme of elegance, subtly, and beauty by giving the tongue a massage of fine tannins (not deep tissue) and then a kiss of acidity that brightens the finish. The harmony and balance of the wine is un-canning and deserves a meal and friends. Le Macioche would be a great match for roast meats (lamb, goat, pork, venison) with sage, rosemary and thyme. It would be fantastic with pastas and rich meat sauce. You will be rewarded by finding six to twelve bottles and stocking them away for the next few years. A true classic!

Using the word obsession in the realms of alcohol may seem like a red flag to most, but the obsession is not (all) in the drinking but the beauty of the place, grape, and history. The past month I have posted more about one grape than I really should, but I am so captivated by Nebbiolo I cannot help help explore the varital every which way I can. 

Upon return from the Alba Wine Exhibition my travel companion and "tasting buddy", Mark M., suggested that we explore the wines of Barolo, Barbaresco, Roero and Nebbiolo d' Abla in a blind tasting format to see if we can identify the differences between the regions. Mark decided that our monthly tasting group was the place to put the wines to task. Mark and I decided that six wines two from Barolo, two from Barbaresco and one each from Roero and the Nebbiolo d' Alba DOC would be a good sampling. We had each of them decanted by another person so Mark and I did not know which wine was which, allowing us to test a bit of our mettle. The rest of the group only knew that the grape was Nebbiolo and the vintage was 2004.

(The line up of our night. The highest rated wine is on the left and the lowest on the right)

We asked that each taster rank the wines in order of preference (1 being their favorite and 6 being their least) and to determine the DOC/DOCG of each wine. What was I looking for? I wanted to see if there were specific characteristics that I could pin-point to help me identify regions more accurately. While tasting I was using a traditional rubric for the regions, trying to fit each wine into specific categories then deciding what was from where and why. My past experiences have lead me to believe the following: 1. Barolos were going to be less open on the nose, higher in tannins, and a tad bit rougher around the edges, 2. Barbarescos would be similar but have more elegance and accessibility to them, 3. Roero/Nebbiolo d'Alba woud be even more accessible, fruit forward and lack the overall structure that Barolo and Barbarescos posses. My thought process was not as accurate as I had hopped; I pegged three wines correctly, was flabbergasted by one, and the remaining two were guesses. The biggest surprise to the group was the Bartolo Mascarello. Mascarello is one of THE definitive Barolos, constantly producing some of the most long lived and classic examples of Barolo. Not one person in our group pegged this for Barolo. The wine was easy, soft, elegant, and a great glass of wine, not normally the adjectives that are associated with Mascarello. We all commented on tremendous structure that will allowing the wine to evolve for many years. Each member of the group was struck by how drinkable the wine and that the 2004 Mascarello is the posterchild of an youthful Barolo that is drinkable today. My previous encounters with young Macarello were the exact opposite of the 2004. I was expecting a wine that was tough as nails, tannic, and needed a lot more time before it I would really enjoy a glass of it. I even thought  I pegged the wine, but instead what I thought was Mascarello was a beautiful Barbaresco, Ovello Cru, from Cantina del Pino. The wine blew me away. Its depth, complexity, and firmness assured me that it was  Barolo, but I was pleasantly wrong. I will be buying a case of Cantina del Pino for my cellar. This is a birth year wine, a wine for ten year wedding anniversary, or any excuse to purchase some great wine and put it away. The next surprise was the second highest rated wine, Cascina Val del Prete, "Vigna di Lino" Nebbiolo d' Alba. Again, I was certain I had nailed it as  Marchesi di Gresy "Martinenga" Barbaresco, but I was wrong and the better for it. Val del Prete was such a complete wine that I actually wrote more notes about this wine than any other. It had seductive aromas of sour cherries, dried roses, black  tea, dried herbs, earth and it goes on. The palate was complex, balanced and stunning with a finish that lasted such a long time that when I finished my last sip I was a tad bit distraught.

What did I learn? I learned that I need to continue to do comparative tastings and really search for the subtle differences that make each of these regions tick. Conversely, I saw that the wines of Barolo, Barbarsco, Roero, and Nebbiolo d' Alba have many more similarities that I previously thought. It is fantastic that producers in each region are working harder each vintage to make the best possible wine they can and allow us lovers of wine to continue our never ending quest of sharing a great glass of wine.

Tasting Results

Group Score   Jeff's Score/Region       Wine                                                    

1st               1st(Barolo)                     Cantina del Pino, Ovello, Barbaresco

2nd               2nd(Barbaresco)            Cascina Val del Prete, "Vigna di Lino" Nebbiolo d'Alba

3rd               4th(Barbaresco)             Marchesi di Greshy "Martinenga" Barbaresco

4th               5th(Roero)                     Bartolo Mascarello, Barolo

5th               3rd(Barolo)                    Palladino, Barolo

6th               6th(Roero)                    Cascin Ca'Rossa, "Momissano" Roero

As I rush to pack the car and get out of town for a few days of R & R, I wanted to make sure I got in this past weeks top wine. As a good friend commented on Facebook, I have a "Barolo problem". I fully admit that the region of Barolo has me 100% hooked and I could not be happier. My passion for this tiny region in Piedmont began early in my wine career at Central Market in Austin, Texas. Since then I have been on a never ending quest to drink as much Barolo as I can get my hands on. This past Friday I had a "man-date" with a new friend and we went total "wine geek" at La Ciccia. We started with a few glasses of Passerina, a beautifully textured and aromatic grape from the Marche. We then launched into a bottle of Asprinio d' Aversa DOC, followed by a bottle of Ciro DOC from Calabria. Now for most, that should be enough but I could not control myself and we went for the Barolo, a 2001 Mauro Veglio Castelletto 2001. It was surreal!

Winery: Mauro Veglio
Wine: Barolo, Castelletto
Vintage: 2001
Grape: Nebbiolo
Retail: $75
Website: Mauro Veglio
Fun Fact: Mauro Veglio started producing estate wines in 1992 when he decided, with advice from his friend Elio Altare, to stop selling his grapes and make his own wine. The Castelletto vineyard is owned by Mauro's father-in-law.
Tasting Notes: Mauro Veglio's wines are more modern than most Barolo producers that I prefer, but this wine shinned at dinner. The wine does age in French oak (50% new) for 24 months so when it is younger the oak is very dominant. The 2001 showed hints of its time in oak but the fruit really was the star with beautiful aromas of ripe cherries, wild boysenberries, rhubarb, mixed with dried leaves, dried herbs and a slight hint of worn leather. The tannins were soft (they do use roto-fermentors to soften the tannins) but still present to let you know you had Nebbiolo in your glass. The finish was long lasting and with every bite of lamb the combination made a flavor experience that rocked my core. A wonderful combination of elegance, forward fruit and structure.

We are always told that the first impression is the only impression that we get. If you apply this mantra to wine you may miss out on some really great juice. In tasting wine there are times that I put my nose in the glass and I know that the wine is flawed or just plum gross, but there are times when a wine sneaks up on me. I'll put my nose in and it is not flawed nor is it bad, it is just shy and not ready to play yet. This week was the perfect example of a wine that on first sniff was simple, pleasant but did not speak to me. Fast forward a few hours and the wine was radiant. Martinborough Vineyard is one of the pioneers of the New Zealand wine industry and for over twenty-five has produced beautiful and classic wines from the very start.

Wine: Martinborough Vineyard "Russian Jack"

Grape: Pinot Noir

Vintage: 2008

Region: Martinborough of Wairarapa, New Zealand (North Island)

Retail: $20

Website: Martinborough Vineyards

Fun Fact: Before Martinborough became a world famous wine region is was a land of low bushes and scrub. To clear the land for vineyards labors called "swaggers" were hired to clear the scrub to make way for the vineyards. The most famous "swagger" was nicknamed Russian Jack. In honor of his backbreaking work, this wine is named for him (his was actually from the Ukraine).

Tasting Notes: At first glance I brushed aside the wine as simple because I was silly. Luckily I was intrigued by something and had a hunch that the wine would show more after a few hours of being open. I was rewarded with a wine that is deep, dark, rich and sexy. This is a dense Pinot Noir with aromas of black plums, black cherries, and rhubarb pie. As the wine evolved it showed hints of chocolate, baking spices and dried leaves with a medium body. The wine is very well balanced with fine tannins, amble fruit but interesting non-fruit aromas and flavors. Russian Jack is a versatile wine and can be paired with various dishes: grilled/roast salmon (try to add some mushrooms to bring out the earthiness), roasted pork, grilled lamb or tender fillet mignon.

 
Every morning for three days the above table greeted my colleagues and I at 9 A.M. For most, a long table filled with wine is a daunting and mind numbing task, but for the one hundred retailers and journalists it was a challenge. The Alba Wine Exhibition is a four day event that presents the most recent vintages of wines from the Roero DOCG, Barbaresco DOCG, and Barolo DOCG. Due to scheduling I was only able to attend the last three days and did not taste any of the wines from Roero and missed the majority of the Barbarescos. The experience to taste wines from the same vintage, grouped by commune, and sub-region (menzione geografica) was one of the greatest educational opportunities afforded to me.

Barbaresco DOCG and Barolo DOCG are small regions located in the province of Piedmont in northwest Italy. Both DOCG's are only allowed to produce red wine from the Nebbiolo grape. The Barbaresco DOCG was granted in December of 1980 and encompasses the communes of Barbaresco, Neive, Treiso and San Rocco Seno d'Elvio. The wine must be aged for at least two years, one of which must be in oak or chestunut barrels (size is not mandated). To many this seems crazy! Why would someone hold their wine back so long? It is an extreme investment for the producers, but the wine needs time and even after three years the wines are hard, tannic and not very friendly. Yet, as they age they become ethereal and so beautiful that many great Barbescos have stopped me in mid-sentence. The Barolo DOCG has similar requirements. Grapes may only come from the communes of Barolo, Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga d'Alba, and part of the following: Monforte d'Alba, Novello, La Morra, Verduno, Grinzane Cavour, Diano d'Alba, Cherasco and Roddi. Only vineyards that are located on soils that are primarily clay and limestone are allowed and they must be on the top of hillsides. Barolo must be aged a total of three years with at least two of years being in wood. So why is any of this important? Why not just explain how the wines tasted and the vintage? it is important to understand that these wines take time to grow, age and develop. If you have tried a Barolo or Barbaresco in the past and thought the wine was too harsh, too earthy, or too whatever, you now know have a glimpse into the time it takes the wines to be born. Barolo and Barbaresco are very special wines, they are not wines to have every night, they deserve good food, good friends, and time. They are not pretentious wines but they are not to be treated lightly as once you taste a great bottle your life will never be the same.

I am not able to speak confidently on the 2006 Barbaresco vintage, as I only tried the wines from Neive due to my arriving late. Reading over the press packet the Connsorzio would have you believe that 2006 was a spectacular vintage, but having spoken with others the 2006 vintage is mixed. It rained in September causing many of the wines to be dilute and lacking in the mid-palate. The consensus was that 2006 is a producer dependent vintage for the whole of the Barbaresco DOCG. The wines that I found with the most promise from Neive were: Barale Fratelli "Serraboella", Oddero "Gallina", Marco e Vittorio Adriano "Basarin" and Cascina Luisin "Basarin". 

After we finished tasting the wines of Neive we began our journey through the 2005 Barolos and 2003 Barolo Riservas. The 2005 vintage was a challenge. As in 2006 there was rain in September but unlike 06' it was only for a week and at the end of the month. In speaking to various producers if you were on top of the weather reports you brought your grapes in prior to the rain and if not...your grapes go wet. Most of the vintners I spoke to said they all got their grapes in "on time" but not all were telling the  truth, as some of their wines tasted dilute and lacked the substance of the others. 2005 is a vintage to either skip or only purchase wines from known producers, but I would only recommend that you purchase either after you have tasted the wines or you have a great relationship with a sommelier or retailer. I will be investing more of my cellar to 2004, 2001 and 1996. I may not be able to buy as much but wines from those vintages will provide me with much more pleasure now and over the long haul. As for the 2003 Riservas, they are horrid. The 2003 vintage was the year of extreme heat across all of Europe and the wines are over-ripe, higher in alcohol and just plain nasty. I asked a producer why did they waste the time and money on producing a riserva when they could have blended in their lots to make a stealler 03' normale? I was given a politcal answer and just decided that many producers did not want to admit that the 03's were a mistake. Riservas are aged a total of five years with three in wood. That extra year in wood, in my opinon, has caused the wines to taste dried out (the fruitiness is all gone). It is a shame that these wines are so bad. I do not recomend spending any money on 2003 Riserva Barolo.

For those that enjoy having a sampling of every vintage in their collection look to La Morra as a village. The wines were supple, fruity and in general had an accessibility to them that will at least provide an enjoyable glass of wine. The wines from Serralunga and Monforte d'Alba were not just their typical tough selves but many of the wines lacked the intensity and structure associate with those communes. However, as with everything in wine there were some producers that truly showed their art by producing good wines in a tough vintage.

Barolo Commune                                                               

Gianni Gagliardo, Cannubi                                                               

E. Pira e Figli, Cannubi        

Virna Borgogno, Cannubi Boschis   

Rinaldi Giuseppe, Cannubi San Lorenzo - Ravera and Brunate - le Coste

Cantina Bartolo Mascarello (Barolo/La Morra)

La Morra Commune

Bovio, Arborina "Vigna Arborina" and Gattera "Vigna Gattera"

Oddero, Brunate

Castiglione Falletto Commune

Brovia, Rocche

Vietti, Rocche

Giacomo Fenocchio, Villero

Monchiero                                                                                       

Monforte d'Alba Commune

Oddero, Bussia "Vigna Mondoca di Bussia Soprana"

Poderi Aldo Conerno, Bussia "Colonnello"

Mauro Veglio, Castelletto

Gianfranco Alessandria, San Giovanni

Serralunga d' Alba Commune

Brovia, Brea "Ca' Mia"

Germano Ettore, Cerretta

Guido Porro, Lazzarito, "Vigna Lazzairasco"

Throughout the three days one winery stood head and shoulders above all the others. Every time there was an Oddero in my glass the wine was balanced, elegant, and had everything in it that I love about Nebbiolo. If they make wine this good in an off vintage...run to find their 2004!