Brugal Rum

To understand Brugal Rum, it helps to understand the country and culture where it’s produced. The Dominican Republic plays a very important role in American history. Christopher Columbus made landfall in this tropical Caribbean island and in the name of Spain opened the door to an indelible amount of Spanish influence, architecture, culture, and immigrants.

Among these immigrants were the Brugal family, who came from Spain and settled in Puerto Plata, a small beach side community on the north coast of the Dominican Republic. Like many of the islands in the Caribbean, the Dominican Republic is an ideal location for sugar cane, which when processed, makes an excellent base to produce rum. In 1888, the Brugal family got into the rum business, carting sugarcane from the southern part of the country near Santo Domingo up to Puerto Plata.

In the Caribbean, rum is incredibly nationalistic, and Dominicans, like Spaniards, are a very proud people. It’s very rare for people to drink rums from other islands, and when alcohol is consumed, it’s predominantly rum.  Instead of cocktails, rum is often consumed over ice, or with cola or Seven-Up and lime in a drink called the Santo Libre. With meals or out at bars and clubs, bottles of rum are served whole, and like wine, a bottle of rum is often consumed in a single sitting and not saved for later.

To give you an idea of the scale of Dominican rum and Brugal in the Dominican Republic, Brugal sells nearly four million twelve-pack cases in the Dominican Republic alone. It’s a staggering number considering the total population, which including those too young to drink is close to nine million. Selling such a massive amount of rum in the Dominican Republic helps make Brugal the top selling rum in the Caribbean and one of the top three selling rums in the world.

As popular as Brugal is in the Dominican Republic, it’s not as known in the United States where rum is growing as a spirit category. Brugal Rum has been making great strides to connect with American imbibers who are transitioning looking beyond vodka and whiskey for new and interesting spirit experiences.

Sugar cane fields near Santo Domingo

Brugal is dry style rum made from molasses, a byproduct of converting sugar cane into granulated sugar. Brugal takes the molasses, or melza, adds water and their proprietary yeast, and then ferments the mixture to make a molasses-based wine called vino. This wine is distilled in a giant column still that separates the wine into a high proof spirit called flema and the leftover materials called vinaza (which is processed to make a “green gas” that powers nearly 50% of Brugal’s energy needs for distillation). Many rum producers use the flema to make their rum, but Brugal runs the flema through a second still which is designed to enable for them to pull out specific elements from the spirit.

The Four Stages of Brugal Rum Distilling

Brugal is very focused on preserving the lighter elements in the rum and discarding the heavier. They also work to reduce the number of conjoiners (non-alcohol elements which can accompany the alcohol in the distillation process). This results in a rum that is very clean and dry, and doesn’t have the level of sweetness of some of the other rums on the market. The spirit produced from the second distillation is 95% alcohol and is the base for all the products that Brugal produces. This raw spirit is immensely bright and creamy with nice vanilla notes and an undercurrent of molasses.

Spectrometer Showing Extremely Low Amounts of Conjoiners

This raw spirit is trucked from Brugal’s distillery in Santo Domingo to the aging and blending warehouse in Puerto Plata. In Puerto Plata the rum is put into American white oak barrels previously used to make bourbon from several of the major bourbon producers, including Jack Daniels and Heaven Hill (see our behind the scenes on how Jack Daniels barrels are made). The rum is aged anywhere between 1 and 8 years depending on which expression they are destined for. All of Brugal’s rums are aged, even their white rum, which is filtered to remove the color imparted by the aging process.

Because of the nearly constant heat and humidity, rum aged in the tropics matures much faster than whisky aged in Scotland or bourbon aged in America. The evaporation is also much faster and after 8 years a full barrel of rum typically yields only 25% of a barrel of rum. It’s not uncommon to open an older barrel to discover that all the rum has evaporated.

One of many Brugal Aging Warehouses

Like most rums, Brugal rum is a blended product. Rums from several years are blended together to make each different expression. For the Especial Extra Dry Rum (coming to the US in the next few months), the rum is a blend of rums that have been aged between one to three years. The Brugal Anejo Rum is a blend of rums between two and five years, and the Extra Viejo is a blend of rums between three and eight years.

Brugal Rum is proofed and then filtered before blending. After blending, Brugal uses large resting tanks to homogenate, marinate, and let the blend breathe from a minimum of three days and maximum of 20 days. This resting process is a key element in the smooth characteristics of Brugal’s rum.

Brugal's Range of Rum

While Brugal sells a wide range of rums in the Caribbean, the only Brugal products available in the United States are Especial Extra Dry, Anejo, Extra Viejo, and 1888. Especial Extra Dry is a new product for the United States market and it’s based on a product they sell in the Dominican Republic called Titanium. Especial Extra Dry is different from Brugal’s other rums as it’s put through a special activated charcoal process which results in a rum that is light, dry, and clean. Especial Extra Dry is aimed at the vodka drinker who is looking to explore new spirit categories but prefers something dry and clean.

1888 is at the other end of the spectrum and is produced differently than Brugal’s other rums. 1888 is a blend of rums twelve to fourteen years old. Because of the dramatic evaporation that happens during the aging, 8 year old rums from many casks are blended together and then rebarreled into ex-Osolorso Sherry casks and then set to age again for another six years.  1888 is a rum which was designed to appeal to whiskey and bourbon drinkers. With deep sherry notes, the 1888 brings together oak, vanilla, and deep cinnamon notes along with raisin, roasted coffee, and dark chocolate into an intensely satisfying rum that is distinctly different from other rum on the market.

Siglo De Oro Super Premium Rum

Brugal has plans to bring over its super premium rum, Ron Siglo de Oro, to the United States in the next few years. Siglo de Oro, like the 1888, is double aged, but Siglo de Oro is aged longer and the second barreling is ex-bourbon casks. It’s a bold and flavorful rum that could easily appeal to whiskey connoisseurs.

Fernando Ortega Brugal and Guillermo Abbott Brugal

In the Dominican Republic there’s an extremely common saying, “Brugal rum will make you want to dance, fight or make love, and here in the Dominican Republic we don’t really fight.” There is a tremendous amount of passion and pride that goes into the production of Brugal rum. The company, which was started in 1888, is still run by the Brugal family over a hundred years later. Rum Maestro’s Fernando Ortega Brugal and Guillermo Abbott Brugal both personally taste and approve every blend of Brugal and many of the key roles in the company are filled by members of the Brugal family.

Brugal and Dominican rum may not be as familiar to Americans as rum from other regions, but it’s definitely an important part of the rum category. By defining its products so clearly, having a consistent dry style, and innovating with new styles and types of rum, Brugal is poised to be a significant part of rum’s renaissance in America.

The Mint Julep

On this week’s Drink Spirits Happy Hour (on KPAM Talk Radio), we take a look at the iconic Mint Julep, the official drink of the Kentucky Derby.

LISTEN TO THE PODCAST HERE: The Perfect Mint Julep

Key links from the show:
Woodford Reserve
Best Rye Whiskey Reviews
Maker’s 46 Review

Here’s the recipe for The Perfect Mint Julep

Mint Julep
1 oz of simple syrup or 2 teaspoons of superfine sugar
2 sprigs of mint
2 1/2 oz of bourbon

Gently bruise one sprig of mint in the bottom of a julep glass or highball with simple syrup. Add half the bourbon and fill with crush iced. Swirl with a bar spoon until the outside of the glass frosts. Add more ice and the remaining bourbon. Stir again to frost the glass and garnish with a sprig of mint.

Next week’s show will take a look at the Classic Daiquiri . You can listen live to that episode on KPAM.com on  Friday 5/11 at 4:15 pm PDT.

LISTEN TO THE PODCAST HERE: The Perfect Mint Julep

In case you missed them, be sure to listen to some of our passed shows:
The Moscow Mule
The Old Fashioned
Martinis – Shaken or Stirred?

Local Spirits From Portland Oregon

On this week’s Drink Spirits Happy Hour (on KPAM Talk Radio), we take a look at artisan spirits made in Portland, Oregon and talk about one of the largest spirit tastings for artisan spirits in the world.

LISTEN TO THE PODCAST HERE:  Spirits from Portland Oregon

Key links from the show:
Portland 88 Vodka Review
Aviation Gin Review
Bull Run Distillery
Lavishmint Vodka
New Deal Distillery
House Spirits
Big Bottom Whiskey

In case you missed them, be sure to listen to some of our passed shows:
The Moscow Mule
The Old Fashioned
Martinis – Shaken or Stirred?

Next week’s show will take a look at the mint julep and the Kentucky Derby. You can listen live to that episode on KPAM.com on  Thursday 5/3 at 4:15 pm PDT.

LISTEN TO THE PODCAST HERE:  Spirits from Portland Oregon

Karlsson's Batch 2008 Vodka

We’ve been big fans of Karlsson’s Gold Vodka since its launch. Rather than focusing on creating a neutral spirit, Karlsson’s showcases the flavors of what goes into the spirit. Karlsson’s uses a variety of seven different virgin Swedish new potatoes to make their Karlsson’s Gold Vodka. The result is a delicious vodka with light tones of chocolate and black pepper. Karlsson’s Gold is one of our favorite sipping vodkas and one of the best examples of how a vodka can be flavorful and have great character.

Karlsson’s continues to expand what’s considered vodka and has ventured into the relatively new frontier of vintage vodka. With the Karlsson’s Batch 2008 Vodka, the company has picked one of the seven potatoes used to make Karlsson’s Gold Vodka and showcased it individually. The potato used is the Gammel Svenske Rod, a round potato with a red-violet skin and yellow pulp with flames of red. The potato itself is mellow with sweet undertones similar in character to the Jerusalem artichoke. It takes a staggering 18 pounds of these potatoes to make a single bottle of Karlsson’s Batch 2008 Vodka.

Only 2,000 bottles of this vintage vodka were produced, and all the potatoes used for the production of the vodka were all picked from the Slattarod Farm in Cape Bjare in 2008. Potatoes from these farms are sold as high as $100 a pound! When you consider that 18 pounds of potatoes are used per bottle with an extremely limited number of bottles produced, the $80 a bottle asking price seems a lot more down to Earth.

Karlsson’s Gammel Svensk Rod 2008 Single Vintage Vodka(40% / 80 proof, $80) comes in a hand numbered and signed bottle (signed by the distiller, Burje Karlsson). The nose on the Batch 2008 vodka is distinctively different than the Karlsson’s Gold Vodka – Batch 2008 has a lighter and more delicate nose. There are also less mocha and pepper notes on Batch 2008. The nose smells like a crisp, freshly cut potato with a slight sprinkle of white pepper.  The entry of Batch 2008 is light and airy with the slightest suggestion of sweet. The mouth feel is much lighter and much more delicate than Karlsson’s Gold. The core of Batch 2008 is clearly potato. Karlsson’s has managed to really capture the essence of a fresh, young, new potato and present it in a glass. In the midpalate we move from the fresh-cut potato flavor to a more starchy, earthy note of young potato skin. There’s the slightest bit of heat that comes in towards the end of the midpalate, but it’s more white pepper than black pepper. The finish is medium and fairly clean with a light earthy note that lingers on the palate.

Karlsson’s has taken a little bit of a risk putting out an $80 vintage vodka, but we feel there will be a market for it. Karlsson’s has done such an exceptional job of showcasing the essence of the base ingredient with a superb amount of elegance and finess. When you look at a bottle of vodka that claims four, five or six times distillation, consider that Karlsson’s has managed to produce an extremely clean and delicate vodka from a single distillation. When you start with great ingredients and craft your spirit well, you don’t need to constantly redistill.

Karlsson’s Gammel Svensk Rod 2008 Single Vintage Vodka is an exciting addition to the vodka category, and we look forward to comparing the differences between vintages and watch as they continue to expand and explore what’s possible with vodka.

Captain Morgan Black Spiced Rum

In the US, spiced rum is a popular segment of the rum category. It’s often the jumping off point for people who want to explore the universe of rum beyond the typical white rum. It’s also quite popular because its spicy flavor profile doesn’t get lost when mixed with Coke (and it’s sold at a price point that makes it easy to mix with Coke). Going “black” has been one of the key ways major brands have extended their lines this year, and often it involves mixing deeply charred barrels with a popular spirit. The most notable examples of this Johnnie Walker Double Black and Jameson Black Barrel have faired well and have shown solid improvements in taste and character beyond their base product. With Captain Morgan Black Spiced Rum, the ‘black’ refers not only to a ‘double charred oak barrel’ but also to the use of a molasses-based blackstrap rum, and like the other entries in the ‘black’ market, it’s a clear upgrade from the traditional Captain Morgan Spiced Rum.

Captain Morgan Black Spiced Rum (47.3% / 94.6 proof, $21.99) doesn’t break down the sources of Caribbean rum it uses, but we know it’s a blackstrap molasses-based rum with clove, cassia bark, and vanilla with other spices and flavors added in. At 94.6 proof Captain Morgan Black is at a higher proof than the standard Captain Morgan’s, which weighs in at 70 proof. This extra proof gives Captain Morgan Black a much stronger flavor delivery and it helps it hold up much better in cocktails.

The nose on Captain Morgan Black Spiced Rum is soft vanilla, reminiscent of vanilla extract, with a hint of underlining spice and oak. You wouldn’t guess that this rum is over 90 proof by smelling it, as the nose is entirely vapor-free. The entry is fairly soft and easy vanilla but the spice jumps right in moments after it hits your palate. Clove spice mingles with the vanilla and brown sugar along with clear oak notes. Things begin to really take off in the midpalate where the clove and oak spice build and the bitterness of the cassia bark is added to the mix. At the end of the midpalate the heat enters the picture and reminds us that, indeed, this is a higher proof spirit. The heat and spice linger for a medium finish which ends with a nice vanilla and oak spice note.

Captain Morgan Black Spiced Rum positions Captain Morgan beyond the “Captain and Coke” or “Captain and ginger” into places it traditionally hasn’t gone before. Instead of thinking of Captain Morgan as a ‘spirit and mixer drink’, Diageo is clearly hoping that Captain Morgan Black will find its way into cocktails and appeal to those who may have previously turned up their noses at the base Captain Morgan product.

A perfect example is using Captain Morgan Black as a stand-in for vodka in the Moscow Mule, rather than just with plain ginger ale:

Captain Morgan Black and Ginger
1 1/2 oz Captain Morgan Black Spiced Rum
1/2 oz fresh lime juice
4 oz of ginger ale

Mixed over ice in a Collins glass.

They’ve also got it standing in as an alternative to more bitter amaro shooters like Fernet when mixed as a:

Captain Morgan Black and Bitters
1 oz Captain Morgan Black Spiced Rum
1/2 oz Angostura aromatic bitters

Shake over ice and strain into a shot glass

Captain Morgan Black is cocktail friendly and is very symbiotic with Angostura aromatic bitters, especially in an Old Fashioned. The higher proof is key as is the level of spice and placement of heat. Between the flavor profile and bottle design, it’s clear that Diageo has its sights set on The Kraken and its quick rise and crossover appeal to aged rum and whiskey drinkers. Everything does line up for Captain Morgan here, with an improved taste experience, nice delivery of flavor and spice, and a perfectly proofed spiced rum that mixes very well. The price is a little bit of a step up from the base Captain Morgan, but not so much as to become cost prohibitive.

One cool feature of the new Captain Morgan Black Spiced Rum is an inner label which reveals itself as you drink through the bottle. Here’s what it looks like:

Captain Morgan Black Inner Label

Let us know what you think of the trend to go ‘black’ and your experience with Captain Morgan Black Spiced Rum.

The Moscow Mule

On this week’s Drink Spirits Happy Hour (on KPAM Talk Radio), we walk you through making The Moscow Mule.

Dating back to the 1940′s, The Moscow Mule was the breakout drink that helped make vodka as popular as it is today. The drink is extremely easy to make and can be made with just a few ingredients.

The  Old Fashioned is the original cocktail and can be made easily with just a few ingredients:

Moscow Mule:
1/2 oz fresh squeezed lime juice
2 oz Belvedere Unfiltered Rye Vodka
4 -6 ounces ginger beer

Add lime juice (which is about ½ a lime) to a Collins glass or mule mug, add ice, drop the squeezed ½ lime into the glass. Add the vodka, top with ginger beer, and serve.

Key links from the show:
Sobieski Vodka Review
Behind The Scenes of Ketel One
10 Unique Vodka Reviews
Absolute Vodka
Imbibe!: From Absinthe Cocktail to Whiskey Smash, a Salute in Stories and Drinks to “Professor” Jerry Thomas by David Wondrich

In case you missed them, be sure to listen to some of our passed shows:
The Old Fashioned
Martinis – Shaken or Stirred?
Live from The SF Spirits Competition
Irish Whiskey and St. Patrick’s Day Drinking

Next week’s show will take a look at spirits from Portland, Oregon. You can listen to that episode here.

Listen to this week’s Drink Spirits Happy Hour: Vodka and The Moscow Mule

You can also watch a special Ustream recording of the show: (part 1 and part 2)

Best Rye Whiskeys

Over the past few years whiskey has really gained in popularity as more and more people discover the category and experiment with different ways to enjoy it. Within the category of whiskey, nothing has been hotter than Rye Whiskey. When Bulleit launched their rye whiskey, it literally doubled their overall sales and they already had a significant amount of whiskey sales.

So why is rye so hot? Most American whiskey on the market is bourbon, which is made from at least 51% corn. While corn delivers some really nice flavors, it can sometimes lack complexity. Rye is often added into the mix to help give whiskey depth, spice, and character. Popular bourbons like Woodford Reserve and Four Roses use a fairly significant amount of rye in their mix.

To be labeled an American rye whiskey, you must include at least 51% of rye in the mix. Many of the rye whiskeys on the market are exactly that, as rye is an expensive and difficult to use grain, however some go even deeper into the rye pool to make the rye the centerpiece of the whiskey. The most profound example of this is Woodford Reserve Master’s Collection Rare Rye, which is made from 100% rye.

Since not all rye whiskeys are created equally, we thought we’d give you a run down of several of the major rye whiskeys on the market and our take on them. This list doesn’t cover them all, the space is vast with a ton of options and we’ve picked a representative cross section of some of the best options. Not to be overlooked are some amazing rye gems out there including Thomas H. Handy Rye, Van Winkel Family Reserve Rye and Rittenhouse 25 year Rye, unfortunately they are nearly impossible to come by so we tried to keep our focus on the ones which are easier to find.

Russel's Reserve 6 Year Rye Whiskey

Russell’s Reserve 6 Year Rye (45% / 90 Proof, $37)- it’s hard to think of a rye whiskey that does a better job of showing off the rye grain and what it brings to the equation in whiskey. For us this is the rye to which all other ryes are compared. The nose has a spicy floral quality to it, with a lightness that you don’t see in most whiskeys. The spice is backed by a light vanilla, marsipan, and touch of oak.

Once Russell’s Reserve Rye hits your palate, there’s no mistaking that it’s rye. The first burst of flavor tastes like rye bread. It’s light, spicy, and simply perfect. The rye notes are joined by light vanilla, oak, and allspice. Russell’s picks up some heat as the spice intensifies in the midpalate, but it manages to maintain the light, fresh rye note. The finish is long and flavorful, preserving the rye as the top note with oak spice laying the floor underneath. If you are looking for the best expression of rye in a whiskey, Russell’s Reserve 6 year rye is the rye for you.

Knob Creek Rye

Knob Creek Rye Whiskey (50% / 100 proof, $40) – A relatively new entry into the rye space from the folks over at Jim Beam. Beam has experimented beyond the traditional Jim Beam Rye before with R(1) and had some limited success. It’s clear that they’ve learned a lot from that and have applied their findings to the Knob Creek Rye. Of all the rye whiskeys we tried, Knob Creek Rye has the most oak in the nose. This gives the nose a nice complexity as you get the sweet vanilla mixed with the light floral rye spice, cinnamon, and oak. The combination is seductive and extremely inviting.

The entry on the Knob Creek Rye is jam packed with flavor. There’s so much there right from the get-go that you almost immediately want to start digging through it all. The balance of flavors here is superb, with vanilla, rye, cinnamon, and oak all there from the start – all very clear and all completely integrated. In the midpalate it’s the cinnamon, which helps drive the spice but doesn’t overpower or obliterate the rye. Together they are a little bit of a dynamic duo of spice. Following right behind is solid oak. Many of the rye whiskeys on the market dial down oak in the mix, but the strong oak notes really work here and serve to add complexity and character. The finish of the Knob Creek Rye is long and spicy with cinnamon and rye notes lingering for a long, long time. Knob Creek Rye is simply a delicious whiskey. Rather than showcase the rye, it takes a more integrated approach and shows how well rye fits within the mix of other classic whiskey flavors.

Bulleit Rye Whiskey

Bulleit 95 Rye (45% / 90 Proof, $27) – Most of the rye whiskeys on the market do not disclose how much rye they use in their mix. The regulation requires 51%, but how much rye used beyond that is often a mystery. Bulleit is very clear in boasting that they use 95% rye in their whiskey. This is a tremendous amount of rye, which is one of the most difficult and expensive grains to use in whiskey. The nose on the Bulleit Rye is light, showcasing the light floral notes of rye. There aren’t a lot of esters coming off the nose, which helps give the spice notes a soft and sweet quality.

The entry on Bulleit is a perfect union of sweet and rye spice. Soft vanilla combines with a hint of honey which is wrapped around a light rye spice note. While Bulleit’s rye note doesn’t jump out of the glass like Russell’s Reserve 6 year, it’s still very well presented. What we love about the entry of Bulleit Rye is how well integrated it is. The sweet and spice come together like a pair of love birds. In the midpalate the rye spice emerges from the embrace to be joined by cinnamon and oak spice. The finish is wonderfully spicy, flavorful, and long. There’s a reason why Bulleit’s sales doubled when they introduced this rye: it’s an exceptional product with a very well crafted taste experience that serves as a thesis on why people love a good rye whiskey.

Wild Turkey Rye 81 and 101

Wild Turkey Rye (now 40.5% / 81 proof, $25) – there’s been some rumbling around Wild Turkey’s change on the proof of their rye. Wild Turkey Rye used to be at 101 proof, which matched the proof of their iconic bourbon. In an effort to try to shake off the misconception that they are a fiery whiskey, they’ve brought out Wild Turkey Bourbon 81 and now this rye at the lower proof. The difference is immediately apparent in the nose – Wild Turkey Rye 81 has less alcohol on the nose, and its spice is softer and sweeter. The entry of the 81 is soft and sweet leading with vanilla accompanied by a light floral note. Whereas the light rye spice on the Russell’s comes in right at the beginning, here it develops more in the midpalate.

Wild Turkey Rye 81 picks up some heat toward the end of the midpalate, but it never really gets all that spicy. The finish is fairly long and dry, with the floral rye spice note lightly left on the palate. There’s some nice cooling on the finish that shows off very good distillation.

The Wild Turkey Rye 101 is a completely different taste experience. The entry is still slightly soft with vanilla, but the floral rye presents stronger and spicier. The midpalate is also far less delicate as it explodes with flavors of vanilla, rye, oak spice and tobacco (a note that just doesn’t come through on the 81). There’s more spice at the end of the midpalate but oddly less heat. The finish has some nice solid spice that lingers for a very long time.

For us, the Wild Turkey Rye 101 is unmistakably Wild Turkey, while the 81 feels muted and slightly apologetic. We’d love to see Wild Turkey stand tall on their 101 and not feel like they have to reformulate to change a misconception about their amazing whiskey. (Note: we are told the 101 will be re-released again as a special edition. When it is, be sure to snatch it up.)

Rittenhouse Rye

Rittenhouse Rye (50% / 100 proof, $22) – a favorite among many mixologists, Rittenhouse has found its place as an essential ingredient in many whiskey-based drinks at craft cocktail bars. Part of the excitement around Rittenhouse Rye is that it’s one of the most affordable quality rye whiskeys on the market. Another is the way it delivers its flavors and aromas. The nose on Rittenhouse Rye is a nice combination of slightly sharp spice and softly sweet. Rittenhouse has a subtle cardboard-like note in the nose that rounds everything out.

The entry on Rittenhouse is one of the sweetest we’ve seen in the rye category, with vanilla and caramel right from the start. The sweet notes quickly make way for a very quick ramp up of cinnamon and rye spice that powers right through to become the predominant notes in the whiskey. Things get quite spicy in the midpalate as the 100 proof alcohol comes through with some heat to bolster the spice. The finish is dry and long with very solid spice that sticks around for quite a long time.

Rittenhouse Rye’s journey from sweet to spicy, and its long finish, are perfect to riff off of in a cocktail, but things aren’t as integrated as Knob Creek’s Rye, and the rye notes aren’t as elegant as Russell’s or Bulleit. Still, if you are looking for a bold and spicy rye to mix with, it’s hard to think of one better for the task than Rittenhouse.

Michter's Straight Rye Whiskey

Michter’s Single Barrel Straight Rye Whiskey (42.4% / 84.8 proof, $39) – Michter’s may be one of the lesser known ryes we’re profiling, but it’s based on one of the older rye recipes being produced, which dates back to 1753.   As we’ve seen in the case of Wild Turkey Rye, proofing a whiskey can make a huge difference in the way it delivers flavor and the intensity of those flavors. It’s clear here that Michter’s is exacting with their proofing, coming in at an odd 84.8 proof. The nose on the Michter’s is a nice blend of light rye spice and corn. You get some light vanilla and oak but the predominant quality of the Michter’s Rye nose is light and airy spice.

The entry follows the theme of light and airy with a nice rye spice present up front.  Instead of the vanilla and caramel you get with many of the other ryes, the entry is light rye spice. It’s not quite as clean and wonderful as the Russell’s, but we love the intense focus that Michter’s has on the rye note. The experience of Michter’s Rye is a little singular, though. It’s a fairly straight line from the entry through the finish where this light rye spice dominates. You do get an undercurrent of the sweetness from the corn, a little caramel and perhaps some stone fruit, but those notes are all fairly muted. Since things really don’t build or crescendo, it’s hard to place the dividing line between where the midpalate ends and the finish begins. Michter’s Rye certainly isn’t a bad whiskey, it’s just sort of one dimensional. That dimension is rye, but it’s just not as affable as Russell’s and not as well integrated as Bulleit Rye.

Whistle Pig (Canadian) Rye Whiskey

Whistle Pig Rye (50% / 100 Proof, $60 ) – As with the Bulleit Rye, Whistle Pig discloses the amount of rye that they use in their whiskey, which is 100%. Unlike many of the other ryes, Whistle Pig also has an age statement at 10 years. While Whistle Pig talks about being hand bottled in Vermont, the whiskey itself is imported from Canada. Whistle Pig has the highest rye content of the whiskeys we tried, but it also comes with the highest price tag – almost three times that of Bulleit, which has 95% rye.

The nose on the Whistle Pig Rye is slightly nutty with clear oak notes. You also get clear caramel, slight cinnamon, and very subtle rye. Considering that this whiskey is 100% rye, it’s a surprise that there isn’t more light rye on the nose, but it’s clear that the barrel’s impact has become dominant in the nose. While we may be left wanting in the nose, the taste more than makes up for it.

Whistle Pig is lush and sweet from the start with vanilla and caramel leading the pack. It’s not as singularly sweet as the Rittenhouse entry, as the sweet notes are mixed with cinnamon. The transition to spice is delightful and the midpalate is an welcome union of spice notes with cinnamon, clove, rye, and oak all coming together. There’s a slight heat at the end of the midpalate which carries to a long finish. Whistle Pig is a delicious whiskey, but its price and taste experience feel a little out of line. Also, the things we love about rye are overtaken a bit by the aging process. Still, it’s a whiskey we’d happily drink.

Fernet-Branca - Bartender's Amaro

If you happen to live in San Francico, Portland or New York and spend any time in craft cocktail bars or with bartenders, odds are you are familiar with Fernet-Branca. Of all the spirits on the market, few are as beloved by bartenders as Fernet. It’s become almost a tribal ritual among bartenders, and you’ll find a bottle or flask of Fernet-Branca at every major cocktail week and event across the country.

Aside from its buzz-worthy status, many still don’t know exactly what Fernet-Branca is. Fernet is a type of bitter amaro which is designed to help settle the stomach, aid in digestion, and support the liver. It may seem slightly counter intuitive to imbibe on something that is good for your liver, but it’s important to remember that spirits all have their origins in medicine and alchemy. A spoonful of sugar helps the medicine go down, but alcohol helped make it potable and preserved the herbs far beyond their regular shelf life.

There are a number of Fernets in the marketplace: Luxardo makes a Fernet, Leopold Brother’s have an American Fernet Leopold, and Stock Spirits has citrus, orange, and traditional Fernets. Although there are many choices in the Fernet space, often when people are referring to Fernet, they mean Fernet-Branca, which has been made in Milan for the past 166 years at the Fratelli Branca Distillerie.

Fernet-Branca (39% / 78 proof, $24) is one of the higher proof amari – most of the others fall between 60 and 70 proof. It has one of the lowest levels of sugar and is one of the most intensely flavored liqueurs. Fernet-Branca is made from an assortment of 40 herbs, roots, and spices. While the exact recipe is a secret, we do know that Fernet-Branca contains Aloe Ferx, Gentian (a bittering agent), Chamomile, Angelica, Chincona (which has quinine, found in tonic water), Colombo root, Chinese Rhubarb, Myrrh, Peppermint, Saffron, and Ireos.  These herbs, spices, and roots are divided up between a hot infusion process (not unlike what’s done at Angostura for their bitters) and a cold infusion where they are soaked in alcohol and then centrifuged. After the infusions are left to settle for a month, they are blended and rested. They’re transfered into Slavonian oak barrels and then aged a year.  Sugar is then added and it’s brought down to 78 proof.

Fernet-Branca is one of the few amari that is aged for a full year. The aging process serves to both add characteristics from the barrel and to intensify flavors of the spirit (as there’s evaporation that occurs, which concentrates things over a year).  The nose on Fernet-Branca is intensely herbal. Peppermint emanates from underneath all the dense herbs which combine to create a minty pine aroma. Underneath this minty piney top note are deeper root notes along with slight floral note. There’s a caramel note in there, too, but as you try to dig through the nose of Fernet-Branca, the mint constantly pops up and dominates. Fernet-Branca’s nose is distinct – it would be difficult not to identify it if you were given it blind. It’s so distinct that one could almost simply say, “It smells like Fernet.”

The entry of Fernet-Branca is intensely herbal. It’s a combination of deep, earthy root notes and bitter high notes with the peppermint weaving everything together into one cohesive whole. In the midpalate there’s more spice with a clear licorice root note joining the mix. In the midpalate we also get a bit of heat which serves to intensify the melody of herbs. It’s here where the mint peaks, all coming together into a perfect blast of herbs, roots, mint, and spice. As with the rest of the taste experience, the mint leads the finish, which is extremely long, full of the root herbs, and very minty. There’s the slightest sweet note to the finish as well, but for a liqueur Fernet-Branca is fairly dry. Fernet-Branca has one of the longest finishes of the amari we’ve tried, as the  flavors stick around long after you’ve finished your last sip.

Fernet-Branca Circa 1907

Fernet-Branca is often taken as a shot by bartenders, and its fantastic finish and moderate heat is probably one of the reasons that makes shooting it so popular. The heavy role of mint in Fernet-Branca gives it a refreshing quality. Whereas taking a shot of whiskey can make you feel warm all over, Fernet-Branca gives you a cool, invigorating feeling, one reason why it’s often depended on as a “second wind shot.” The medicinal qualities of Fernet are not trivial. Fernet-Branca is excellent after you’ve had too much to eat, aren’t feeling your best, or are trying to recover from a hangover. Ironically, there is too much of a good thing and drinking too much Fernet-Branca will give you a hangover. So while it’s a great shot or two, drinking just Fernet all night long will lead to a painful morning, which, again, ironically is helped by a shot of Fernet.

Fernet-Branca is intensely bitter and deeply herbal, and so it definitely falls under the heading of “acquired taste.” The role of mint and subtle sugar in the mix really do serve to pull all this intense herbaceousness and bitterness together and help transform it into something that is oddly crave worthy. Fernet-Branca isn’t the best place to start for exploring amaro – the American palate isn’t well acclimatized to bitterness – so starting out with something softer and sweeter like Averna or Cynar (which is much lower proof) is advised. But once you begin your journey with amaro, Fernet-Branca is a must-stop destination. Fernet is also something that you should try on more than one occasion. It’s profoundly intense, so it may take your palate a few times to really evaluate if Fernet-Branca is going to be something you’ve only tried or something you crave.

Fernet-Branca’s odd crave worthy aspect is slightly elusive. We’ve had many discussions with bartenders about their favorite amaro, and often things like Nardini, Cynar, and Amaro Nonino get mentioned. Then somehow when someone mentions Fernet-Branca, there are shot glasses lined up on the bar and we’re all doing shots of Fernet. It’s hard to think of another spirit that has this unique and ritualistic following.

The Old Fashioned

On this week’s Drink Spirits Happy Hour (on KPAM Talk Radio), we walk you through making The Old Fashioned.

The  Old Fashioned is the original cocktail and can be made easily with just a few ingredients:

The Old Fashioned
2 oz of Bourbon or Rye Whiskey
3 Dashes of Angostura Bitters
1 tsp Bar Sugar or 1 Sugar Cube
a splash of water
1 lemon peel
1 orange peel

Muddle the sugar and Angostura bitters in a splash or water or soda water (no more than a teaspoon) until the sugar is dissolved, forming a syrup in the bottom of the glass. Add the whiskey and the ice and stir well. Garnish with a fresh twist of lemon (also can do an orange twist or both)

Key links from the show:
The Story of Maker’s Mark Bourbon
Maker’s 46
Wild Turkey
Brooklyn Hemispherical Bitters
Scrappy Bitters
The Meadow – Bitters Store
Tovolo KING Cube Ice Trays
Ride On Portland

In case you missed them, be sure to listen to some of our passed shows:
Martinis – Shaken or Stirred?
Live from The SF Spirits Competition
Irish Whiskey and St. Patrick’s Day Drinking

Next week’s show will take a look at Vodka and How To Make A Moscow Mule. You can listen to that episode here.

Listen to this week’s Drink Spirits Happy Hour: The Old Fashioned

The Perfect Margarita

On this week’s Drink Spirits Happy Hour (on KPAM Talk Radio), we walk you through making a classic margarita.

The Margarita is a wonderful, simple cocktail which can be made with just three ingredients:

Tommy’s Margarita
2 oz  Blanco Tequila (on the show we used Tequila Avion, Don Julio and Patron)
1 oz lime juice (must be fresh squeezed)
1 oz agave syrup (diluted 1:1 nector/water)

shake and strain over cracked ice. (no need to salt the rim)

Key links from the show:
3 Amazing Tequila Drinks
Top 5 Tequila for Cinco De Mayo
Don Julio Review
Tequila Avion Review
Patron Tequila
Ride On Portland

In case you missed it, be sure to listen to last week’s show: Martinis – Shaken or Stirred?

Next week’s show will take a look at The Old Fashioned. You can listen to the how to make an old fashioned episode here.

Listen to this week’s Drink Spirits Happy Hour: Tequila and The Classic Margarita