Dry Flies Patterns

Tan Klinkhămer

2011-11-21T19:44:00.001+00:00

The klinkhămer is an excellent all-round dry fly. The parachute creates a wonderful silhouette on the water and the body sits in the surface film. Usually can produce more takes than a fly sitting on the surface.

Materials:
Hook: Partridge Klinkhămer Extreme 15BNX size 10-18
Thread: Black and spider web
Body: Tan Seals Fur
Hackle:Red Game Cock Hackle
Rib:Fine Pearl Mylar (optional)
Thorax: Peacock Herl
Wing: PolyYarn,Antron,White deer hair

1 : Start to catch in the thread onto the hookshank around 5mm from the eye.

2 : Take a length of white Poly Yarn and catch onto the hookshank, just before the hook starts to bend.

3 : Trim the poly yarn to the left hand side of the thread, make sure that the poly yarn is tapered. (This creates a tapered body).

4 : Cover the poly yarn with thread.

5 : Lift the poly yarn upwards so that it is vertical and perform a few wraps around the base to form the wing post. The post should now stay vertical.

6 : Wind the thread down the hook to a position well around the hook bend.

7 : Dub some tan dubbing around the thread. Try to keep the dubbing as fine as possible to keep the body thickness to a minimum.

8 : Wind the dubbing up the hookshank creating a thin body. Stop about 1/3 of the body length from the wing post.

9 : For the next stage, wind the dubbing up towards the wing post and then back down to the position where your started this run. Continue doing this until a tapered body is achieved as shown. (Tip: Keep the dubbing on the thread as fine as possible, you can run over the dubbing again and again to get the desired thickness)

10 : Catch in a Brown Cock Hackle and secure vertically to the wing post.

11 : Take 3 peacock herls and secure to the hook shank. Return the thread to the wing post and let the bobbin hang free.

12 : Wind the peacock herl back and forth to create a thorax, making sure that the bobbin and thread are lifted out of the way before finishing the winding at the wingpost. You will be whip finishing the thread around the wing post , securing the peacock herl at the same time.

13 : Secure the peacock herls with thread around the wing post, whip finish and trim any waste herl and also the thread.

14 : Adjust the fly in the vice so that the wing post points horizontally. Catch in some spider web on the wing post and wind a few times to create a base where the feather will be wound. Be careful when using the spider web, it is very thin and brittle.

15 : Wind the hackle around the wing post a few times, make sure that each winding goes underneath the previous one. After the last winding pull the cock hackle end horizontally towards the vice and perform a few windings of spider web around the wing post (underneath the least winding) and trapping the waste cock hackle at the same time. Be careful not to trap too many hackle fibres. Trim the waste cock hackle.

16 : Finally whip finish the spider web on the wing post and trim. If for any reason there are trapped fibres which point downwards, either trim them with scissors or pick the out with a dubbing needle. Take hold of the wing post, twist it slightly and make one cut across with scissors to trim the post to length.

The Triple Wing Caddis

2011-11-20T14:46:00.002+00:00

Material:
Hook: long shank, dry fly hook (size #8 shown here)
Thread:8/0 or 6/0, depending on the size you’re tying
Body:dubbing (olive, with antron shown here)
Wing:fine deer, or elk hair
Hackle:color is your choice (ginger shown here)

Start your thread, and wind back well onto the bend of the hook. Begin dubbing the body (tapered from fine to thick) ending just above the hook point. Cut, and stack a fine bunch of deer hair (or elk, if you’ve chosen that) and tie in as shown. Trim the butt ends of the hair, and make several tight wraps of thread to secure it.

Continue dubbing to about the mid-point of the hook’s shank, and tie in a hair wing the same way you did in step one.

Make a few light wraps of dubbing, and tie in your hackle as shown.

Complete the dubbing as shown.

Wind you hackle forward, stopping about 1/16″ behind the eye of the hook. Tie off, and trim the remaining, unused portion of the hackle.

Prepare, and tie in your third, and last wing as shown. Pull the butt ends of the hair back, and make several tight wraps of thread in front of the tie in point. This keeps the cut ends of the hair away from the eye of the hook.

Adams Dry Fly

2011-11-20T14:40:00.001+00:00

Material:Hook:Tiemco 100 size #10-#20 (or any standard dry fly hook)
Thread:Grey or black 8/0
Wing:Grizzly hackle tips (hen)
Tail:Hackle fibers~grizzly/brown/grizzly
Abdomen:Muskrat underfur
Hackle:Grizzly and Brown (rooster/neck)

Start your thread, as shown.

Select and align 2 grizzly hen hackle tips so that they flare away from one another. Measure them against the hook. The wings, when finished, should be approx. the length of the hook shank. Make 3-4 tight wraps of thread to tie them in. Its a good idea to make the first 1 or 2 wraps under light thread tension so that the feathers don’t twist.

Trim the butt ends of the hackle tips and begin to wrap your thread back towards the bend in the hook. Select some spade hackle (the hackle found at the edges of the rooster neck with long, stiff fibers) from both the grizzly and brown. Tie in a small bunch of grizzly as shown, followed by a small bunch of brown, and another small bunch of grizzly.
Less is more~its easy to get the tail too bulky!

Pictured here in the background is a patch of muskrat fur. The fluffy underfur is a delight to tie with. Trim a small clump close to the skin, remove the long guard hairs.

Dub a tapered abdomen of muskrat underfur, stopping before you get to the tie in point of the hackle tip wings. Pinch the hackle tips together and pull them back as shown.

Make 3-4 tight wraps of thread in front of the hackle tips to keep them upright as shown. Trim the hackle barbs that got squashed in the process!

Behind the wing (and over that spot you left bare while dubbing the abdomen) tie in a prepared brown hackle, and a grizzly one over it as shown.

The second hackle you tied on (the one on top) is the first one you wind forward~the grizzly. Make 1 or 2 wraps behind the wing, 2-3 in front of it. Try to keep the space between the wraps uniform. Tie it off.
Next, wind the brown hackle forward. Look closely at the hackle stem where it contacts the hook shank and try to position the wraps between the grizzly hackle. Tie off, trim off the remaining hackle. Small thread head, a bit of head cement…you’re done!

Intro about dry fly fishing

2011-11-19T17:29:00.000+00:00

Dry fly fishing is done with line and flies that float, joined by a leader, usually made of fine polyamide monofilament line. The tapered leader is 3 to 5 meters long, thus nearly invisible where the fly is knotted, and the angler can replace the last meter of nylon as required. Unlike sinking fly (nymph) fishing, the "take" on dry flies is visible, explosive and exciting. While trout typically consume about 90% of their diet from below-water sources, the 10% of surface-level consumption by trout is more than enough to keep most anglers busy. Additionally, beginning fly anglers generally prefer dry fly fishing because of the relative ease of detecting a strike and the instant gratification of seeing a trout strike their fly. Nymph fishing may be more productive, but dry fly anglers soon become addicted to the surface strike.

Dry flies may be "attractors", such as the Royal Wulff, or "natural imitators", such as the elk hair caddis, a caddisfly imitation. A beginner may wish to begin with a fly that is easy to see such as a Royal Wulff attractor or a mayfly imitation such as a Parachute Adams. The "parachute" on the Parachute Adams makes the fly land as softly as a natural on the water and has the added benefit of making the fly very visible from the surface. Being able to see the fly is especially helpful to the beginner. The fly should land softly, as if dropped onto the water, with the leader fully extended from the fly line. Due to rivers having faster and slower currents often running side by side, the fly can over take or be overtaken by the line, thus disturbing the fly's drift. Mending is a technique where by one lifts and moves the part of the line that requires re-aligning with the fly's drift, thus extending the drag free drift. The mend can be upstream or downstream depending on the currents carrying the line or fly. To be effective, any mending of the fly line should not disturb the natural drift of the fly. Learning to mend is often much easier if the angler can see the fly.

Once a fish has been caught and landed, the fly may no longer float well. A fly can sometimes be dried and made to float again by "false" casting, casting the fly back and forth in the air. In some cases, the fly can be dried with a small piece of reusable absorbent towel, an amadou patch or chamois and after drying placed and shaken in a container full of fly "dressing"; a hydrophobic solution. A popular solution to a dry fly which refuses to float is simply to replace it with another, similar or identical fly until the original can fully dry, rotating through a set of flies.

Dry fly fishing on small, clear-water streams can be especially productive if the angler stays as low to the ground and as far from the bank as possible, moving upstream with stealth. Trout tend to face upstream and most of their food is carried to them on the current. For this reason, the fish's attention is normally focused into the current; most anglers move and fish "into the current", fishing from a position downstream of the fish's suspected lie. Trout tend to strike their food at current "edges", where faster- and slower-moving waters mix. Obstructions to the stream flow, such as large rocks or nearby pools, provide a "low energy" environment where fish sit and wait for food without expending much energy. Casting upstream to the "edge" of the slower water, the angler can see the fly land and drift slowly back downstream. The challenge in stream fishing is placing the fly with deadly accuracy, within inches of a protective rock for instance, not long range casting. Done properly, the fly seems to be just floating along in the current with a "perfect drift" as if not connected to the fly line. The angler must remain vigilant for the "take" in order to be ready to raise the rod tip and set the hook.

Later in the blog i will show to you some pattens that i talk in the article above!!!