Here are five essential items to include in your car emergency kit for winter weather.

1. Warm clothing and blankets

In the event that you become stranded in your car during a winter storm, having warm clothing and blankets can mean the difference between being comfortable and being at risk of hypothermia. Pack a hat, gloves, a warm coat, and a blanket or two in your emergency kit.

Obviously, you can run your engine and keep the car heated this way, but that is only possible if:

• you can stay inside the vehicle,
• the engine did not break during the emergency (which might be the case if you hit a tree),
• you still have fuel available.

A gallon of fuel should be enough to keep an engine running for two to six hours.

2. Flashlight and extra batteries

A flashlight can be invaluable for illuminating your way if you need to leave your car in the dark. Pack a high-quality flashlight and a set of extra batteries in your emergency kit to ensure that you have a reliable source of light.

The best possible type of lamp to keep for emergencies is a headlamp. The reason is simple: you can use it and have two free hands to conduct any type of task.

Some users prefer to use rechargeable flashlights, which are recharged using a cigarette lighter plug charger.

3. First aid kit

Accidents can happen at any time, and a first aid kit can be a crucial resource for treating minor injuries. Make sure your kit includes bandages, gauze, adhesive tape, and other basic first aid supplies.

You should not keep perishable items in your first aid kit. This includes any type of drug that will be affected by the frost. In general, if you need any drugs, they should be kept in your every-day carry survival kit.

4. Jumper cables

Low temperatures significantly decrease the capacity of car batteries. This includes not only lead-acid batteries used for starter motors in internal combustion engines, but also lithium-ion batteries in electric vehicles and hybrid vehicles. So if you leave the dome light in your car for the night, you might not be able to start your car in the winter.

If your car battery dies in the cold, jumper cables can be a quick and easy way to get it started again. Make sure you have a set of heavy-duty jumper cables in your emergency kit, along with a set of instructions for how to use them.

In Poland we quite often see much less cars on the streets on the day of the first significant frost. This is the time when most of the batteries die, or rather the time when the users learn the batteries should be replaced.

5. Emergency food and water

If you become stranded in your car for an extended period of time, having access to food and water can be crucial. Pack non-perishable, easy-to-prepare items such as energy bars, nuts, and dried fruit in your emergency kit, along with a few bottles of water.

Note that the water should be kept in containers that will not be damaged by the frost. In other case you risk having your trunk or interior dampened with water.

Other things to consider

In addition to these five essential items, there are a few other things you may want to consider adding to your car emergency kit for winter weather:

• A shovel: If you get stuck in the snow, a shovel can be a lifesaver for digging yourself out.
• An ice scraper: An ice scraper can be invaluable for removing ice and snow from your car’s windows and mirrors.
• A bag of sand or kitty litter: If you get stuck in the snow, spreading sand or kitty litter under your tires can provide extra traction and help you get moving again.
• A reflective triangle or road flares: If your car breaks down on the side of the road, a reflective triangle or road flares can help other drivers see you and avoid hitting your car.

By including these essential items in your car emergency kit, you can be prepared for winter weather and any other unexpected emergencies that may arise on the road. Remember to regularly check and restock your emergency kit to ensure that it’s always ready when you need it.

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Here are some tips for surviving a power outage.

1. Stay informed

Know what’s happening with the power outage and how long it’s expected to last. Keep a battery-powered or hand-crank radio on hand to get updates from local authorities and emergency services.

Also, HAM radio or CB radio can be considered a useful source of information.

2. Stay safe

If you’re using a generator, make sure it’s set up correctly and used in a well-ventilated area to prevent carbon monoxide poisoning.

Keep flashlights and batteries handy, and use them instead of candles to prevent fires. A flashlight in your cellphone is more then enough to light up the entire room. There will not be enough light to assembly a jigsaw puzzle, but more than enough to keep your toe from hitting the cupboard.

Avoid using open flames, such as matches or lighters, and be cautious when using any appliances that may have come into contact with water.

3. Stay cool

If it’s hot outside, try to stay in a cool, air-conditioned space if possible (applicable only if you have an emergency power source powerful enough to provide energy to the air conditioner). A single-room devices, especially the ones installed in the windows, are the most suitable choice to be powered using a generator or other off-grid power source (e.g. solar panels + inverter), because they consume much less energy and require much less power than the central air conditioning.

If you don’t have air conditioning, try to stay in the lowest level of your home or seek shelter elsewhere. Drink plenty of water, and avoid strenuous activity. Move air around you, using a small battery-powered fan. Also, using air conditioning in your car may be available, if you have some fuel stored for this purpose. Blackout means that the fuel pumps on the gas stations won’t be working.

4. Stay fed

You will probably not perish of hunger after even a week-long power outage. Still, you should keep a supply of non-perishable, easy-to-prepare food on hand. Good examples are

• canned goods, e.g. beans, meatballs, canned fruit,
• rice and pasta,
• energy bars, chocolate,
• honey and peanut butter.

If you have a gas stove, you can still cook food as long as you have a gas supply. If not, consider buying a portable stove. They use either gas in replaceable canisters or liquid fuel like white gas, kerosene, gasoline or even diesel fuel. They will not only provide you with a heat source for cooking in a power outage, but can be also used while traveling.

Avoid opening your fridge or freezer too often, as this will help keep food cold for longer. In a prolonged outage gradually move food from freezer to the fridge. It will thaw there, absorbing some of the heat and keeping the temperature lower.

It’s also important to stock up on water, as the water supply may be disabled. The first thing one needs to do in a power outage is to fill up the bathtub with water. For some time there should be enough pressure in the water mains to make this emergency water supply. It will definitely come in handy later.

5. Stay connected

This advice is closely related to the first one. Being informed means you know what to do. Being connected means knowing what your close ones are doing, if they need help, or if they might assist you in any way.

If you have a charged cell phone, keep it with you and use it to stay in touch with family and friends, as well as to get updates on the power outage. One of the best power sources for that purpose is your car, you don’t need to buy solar system for your home or any portable solar charger.

If the mobile phone network is down, a traditional landline phone might still be helpful, as these often work even during a power outage.

6. Stay comfortable

Have blankets and warm clothing available in case it gets cold.

If you have a fireplace or wood stove, you can use these for warmth as long as you have a supply of dry wood.

7. Stay prepared

Having a well-stocked emergency kit can make a power outage much more bearable. It might also make it possible for you to assist others, like your neighbors.

Some items to include are:

• flashlight and extra batteries,
• a battery-powered or hand-crank radio,
• non-perishable food and water,
• first aid kit,
• wet wipes,
• bucket and garbage bags to use as an emergency toilet.

By following these tips, you can stay safe and comfortable during a power outage. Remember to always be prepared, as you never know when an emergency might occur.

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Obviously one needs not only to have these items, but accommodate themselves with them, learn how to use them properly and check from time to time if they are in good, working condition.

Spare tire and tools

Flat tires are a common occurrence when driving, and having a spare tire and the tools necessary to change it can save you a lot of time and hassle. Make sure to check the air pressure in your spare tire regularly and keep it properly inflated.

It is also a good idea to keep a small tire repair kit in your car in case of a puncture. But that kit will be of no use, unless you learn the proper technique of fixing punctures. Some kits contain glue and a piece of rubber to be put in the hole. But there are other solutions on the market, e.g. cans filled with sealant and pressurized gas. One connects the can to the tire air valve, fill it with the sealant and that should fix the air leak.

In case of the need to change the tire, it’s nice to wear gloves and reflective vest. Gloves keep your hands clean, and the reflective vest makes you visible for other drivers, which might save your life.

Emergency kit

An emergency kit should include items such as:

• flashlight (preferably with spare batteries),
• first-aid supplies,
• blankets (preferably not space blankets, i.e. mylar foil, but blankets made of cloth, wool for example)
• water.

These items can be vital in the event of a breakdown or other emergency situation. If you get stuck in the snow for a couple of hours, they will definitely be helpful. Also, please bear in mind that water might freeze, so either choose a container that will not get shattered in such a case, or use other means. One might fill a bottle to be less than half-full, which should keep it from being destroyed by the expanding, freezing water. The other approach is to buy emergency water packets, which are frost resistant, but much more expensive (about 1-2$ per 500 ml / 16 fl.oz.).

Consider adding additional items to your emergency kit, such as a reflective triangle, road flares or other emergency signaling light, to help make your car visible to other drivers if you break down at night or in poor visibility.

Some of the devices mentioned here are mandatory in some jurisdictions.

Phone charger

It is important to have a working phone in case of emergencies, but if your phone runs out of battery, it won’t do you much good. Keep a phone charger in your car so you can stay connected while on the go.

If you are planning a long road trip, consider bringing a portable power bank to keep your phone charged while driving. It might come in handy if the charger breaks or the fuse that secures the cigarette lighter socket get damaged.

Map or a GPS

Technology can be a great help when it comes to navigation, but it is always good to have a backup plan in case your phone dies, gets dropped in a murky puddle or you lose service. Keep a map or a separate portable GPS device in your car in case you need it.

It is also a good idea to familiarize yourself with the route you will be taking before setting out on a long trip, as this can help you find your way if you encounter any issues with your GPS. We highly recommend to download maps to your phone so that they are available offline. Most of the navigation apps have this feature available.

Jump cables

A dead battery can be a frustrating and inconvenient problem, but having a set of jump cables can help you get back on the road quickly. Keep a set in your car and learn how to use them in case you ever need to jump start your vehicle. It is also a good idea to keep a set of jumper cables in your trunk even if you have a newer vehicle, as newer cars can still have battery issues.

This will come in handy not only when your battery loses all the juice, but also when you want to help a stranded stranger on the side of the road.

One might also think about having a tow line, in case the jump cables are not enough to move a broken vehicle.

Rain gear

Inclement weather can strike at any time, and being caught without proper rain gear can be uncomfortable and dangerous. Keep a rain jacket or umbrella in your car so you can stay dry if the weather takes a turn for the worse.

Cheap ponchos made of foil are a good choice for the purpose. You could also step-up your gear and buy ponchos made from the mylar foil, which not only keep you dry, but also decrease the amount of heat lost by your body. They will be really handy in the winter or late fall, when the weather is wet and cold.

It is also a good idea to keep a set of wiper blades in good condition (or a spare set), as visibility can be greatly reduced in heavy rain or snow. Should we mention keeping some wiper fluid as well?

Any additional ideas?

In addition to these six essential items, it is also a good idea to keep basic supplies such as bottled water (remember the freezing risk), snacks, and a small tool kit in your car. This tool kit should not only include a couple of wrenches and screwdrivers, but also spare bulbs, fuses, a bottle of engine oil, and maybe a spare v-belt, if your car uses one. In my life I changed one in my cars 5 or 6 times.

By being prepared for any situation, you can stay safe and comfortable on the road. It is also a good idea to periodically check your car’s fluid levels and tire pressure to ensure that your vehicle is running smoothly and safely. By taking the time to prepare for any eventuality, you can enjoy a more stress-free and enjoyable driving experience.

The post 6 essential items in your car survival kit appeared first on Dwelling Survival.

On a side note: things are much easier to remember if the acronyms are funny. So I was considering naming it Family Action Plan. That would be much easier to remember, but that name is a bit too vague.

The first step in creating a Family Emergency Plan is to identify a meeting place where your family can gather in the event that you are separated. It’s a good idea to choose two locations, one near your home and one further away, in case you are unable to return home. Make sure that everyone in the family knows where these locations are and how to get there. If you plan to evacuate to a specific location (bug-out location), meeting places should be placed along the desired evacuation route.

Next, establish a communication plan. This should include multiple ways to get in touch with each other, such as text messaging, phone calls, email, and social media. In case network connection is lost, the plan might include alternative means of communication, e.g. CB radio. It’s also a good idea to designate one person as the main point of contact, who will be responsible for gathering information and disseminating it to the rest of the family.

Obviously to make that possible, the Family Emergency Plan needs to include all the contact information. Yes, we keep it stored in our mobile phones, but what if the phones are no longer operational (discharged or broken)? This information should include not only your close ones’ phone numbers, but also social media handles and physical addresses, work place and the extension number to reach their desks. Emergencies happen also when people are at work and school, not only on the weekends.

Once you have a meeting place and communication plan in place, it’s time to identify the roles and responsibilities of each family member. This will depend on the specific needs and capabilities of each individual, as well as the type of emergency that you are preparing for. Some tasks might include gathering emergency supplies and kits, securing the home and property, evacuating the home if necessary, checking on and assisting neighbors, communicating with authorities and emergency services, and coordinating with the designated point of contact.

In addition to assigning roles and responsibilities, it’s also important to make sure that your family has the necessary supplies and equipment to handle an emergency. This might include

• non-perishable food (emergency rations, canned food, rice and beans),
• water and water purification equipment (chlorine tablets, water filters),
• first aid supplies,
• flashlights with spare batteries,
• a hand-crank radio,

and any other essentials that you might need. It’s a good idea to keep these supplies in a central location, such as a basement or utility closet, and to regularly check and restock them as needed. If you expect the need to evacuate at some point, building a bug-out bag is also an option.

Another important aspect of preparing for an emergency is to familiarize yourself with the types of disasters that are most likely to occur in your area, and to know what to do in each situation. This might include knowing how to shut off gas and water lines, where to find emergency shelters, and how to communicate with authorities. It’s also a good idea to keep a list of important phone numbers, including those for emergency services, utility companies, and family and friends, in a central location that is easy to access.

It’s advisable to prepare a copy of the FEP for every member of the family to have always on hand (for example in their wallet), one for every family car, a couple of copies for the home, and at least one for every work place and school of the kids (e.g. to be kept in their locker). Due to the fact that it might contain sensitive information, one may consider encrypting some of the information there.

Finally, it’s important to practice and review your Family Emergency Plan regularly to ensure that everyone is prepared and knows what to do in the event of an emergency. This might include conducting drills or simulations, or simply going over the plan with your family to make sure that everyone is familiar with their roles and responsibilities.

In summary, preparing a Family Emergency Plan is an essential step in ensuring the safety and well-being of your loved ones. By identifying a meeting place, establishing a communication plan, assigning roles and responsibilities, gathering necessary supplies and equipment, and familiarizing yourself with the types of disasters that are most likely to occur in your area, you can be confident that your family is prepared for any emergency that might arise.

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Last year I finally managed to meet with Lars again to recreate the experiment. In this and the two following videos I will tell you all about it. But before I talk about that, let’s get back to fall of 2012 again for a moment, to the first experiment.

I never treated this experiment very seriously, because walking would not be my first choice. If I had to evacuate, I would take my car standing in the street. If it woudln’t work, I’d use public transport, bicycle or even would try to hitchhike. I didn’t feel the need to prepare for walking to the bug-out location, carrying my 72-hr kit in a backpack, but the failure of this experiment made me treat this scenario more seriously. To be honest, the huge difference between what I imagined and anticipated and what really happened scared me and worried at the same time. Because of that I decided to recreate the experiment in a while. I decided to try this excercise once again, and prepare for it better. This video sums up the preparations.

Knowing that I won’t be able to walk to my bug-out location, I decided to make the escape by car much more probable. I found and tested a couple of new routes to that destination, which made it less likely to be stuck in traffic. But the most important thing I did was to move. I moved from one apartment in one part of Warsaw city to another, to the right side of Vistula river that divides the city in two. Not only I now live closer to my work, and spend less time in traffic on one of the bridges. I’m also a lot closer to my bug-out location.

I started serious preparations a year before the second experiment. I followed the advice of a trainer I interviewed on our Polish blog soon after the first one. He said: “first determine what is the problem and what is the goal, and start working on it. Do as much as you can, and learn the theory in the meantime. First work, then go through theory and whine.” My problem was in my ankles, that couldn’t stand the strain. So I decided to put some strain on them, by walking and running. I started with running, because I felt I had no time for walking. When I first went out to run, I couldn’t run for more than few hundret meters without losing my breath and taking a break. But within three weeks I was able to run for 3 kilometers, almost 2 miles without any breaks. Then I signed up for dancing lessons with my girlfriend and found out that after an hour and a half my knees hurt me so bad I’m barely able to walk down stairs for a few days after the lessons, so I stopped running. But they didn’t hurt when I was walking on a flat surface, so I focused on that and started walking from work to home in the afternoon. It’s about 6 kilometers or 4 miles of walking, if I take the shortest route to home. But it became boring after a while and I started to change the route, going around a bit, adding extra distance. Sometimes I rented the city bike to ride even a bit farther and walk home from there. The maximum distance I managed to walk on a single work day was 15 kilometers, or 9,3 miles, in the morning and after the work. Thanks to all the walking, I got to know the neighborhood. I saw new routes I could use in a car or on a bike. I know where I can find water, and where it’s not good for any use. I am not familiar with all the important places around, but I know much more of them than one year ago.

I took some of the free time to walk as well, both on holidays and during the weekends. I practiced navigation using a map and compass. I realized I cannot rely on water found en route, because there might be no water at all.

In the beginning of October last year I ran in a street run for 10 kilometers (or 6,2 miles), called “Run Warsaw”. I thought it would be an interesting experience. If I’m capable of running about a third of this distance, I will probably make it through the whole 10 kilometers. I wanted to see if I can push what I thought was my limit. I wanted to prepare for the run a bit better, increasing the distances, but couldn’t. There was no time, no oportunities, but weather was not an issue — I trained while it was raining as well. The only thing I managed to do was to run for 4 kilometers, and then was the event.

During the event I felt some kind of pressure to run the whole distance, and not walk parts of it. I started with two friends of mine, though they were in different sections and wanted to reach different time results. I didn’t assume I will run the whole thing, I expected I will have to walk after a few kilometers to catch my breath and then run some more. But I ran for the 4 kilometers, I reached the fifth and sixth kilometer. After every kilometer I felt it would be silly to start walking now. Everybody around me was running, so I ran as well. Eventually I ran the whole thing. I had motivation, the circumstances were right, I was able to push myself farther than I anticipated. If I was running from a city under attack, I would probably manage to do it as well.

I forgot to mention riding on a bike. I started riding it a bit. The previous year I rode my bike only few times, but this time I rented city bikes and sometimes I rode to work and back.

To sum up: during these preparations

• I ran for 46 kilometers (29 miles), the “Run Warsaw” event taken into account,
• I rode my bike for 168 kilometers (104 miles),
• and walked a total distance of 456 km (283 miles).

The best results I had in July 2015, when I walked 112 km (70 miles).

The post Bug-out on foot – test – preparations appeared first on Dwelling Survival.

You don’t need much to be protected from radiation. Concrete that this cellar is made of is a pretty good protection against radiation, but packed dirt also provides a good protection. So you only need to cover the cellar with enough dirt. One feet (30 cm) of packed dirt absorbs 90% of radiation. Two feet (60 cm) absorb 99%, and three feet (90 cm) — 99,9% of radiation. So you only one-meter-thick (3 feet) layer of dirt to feel safe in the cellar.

Of course, if this layer is penetrated by rainwater carrying particles of radioactive dust, the protection will be much worse. Because of that, on top of the 3 feet layer of dirt one should place a layer of plastic foil, and some additional soil for cover plants.

Root cellars were used in Poland (and all over the world) for many generations, as it’s the only solution to keep produce fresh and safe from spoiling for long time, except for refrigerators.

This particular cellar we’re showing here is not suitable for shtf scenarios, as it’s not covered with a layer of dirt. Some time ago it probably was covered. Because of that, we can show you how it’s built.

Come on, let’s walk inside. The root cellar was closed here by the first door. The door was removed, as well as most of the door frame, but in this place there used to be a door. Behind it a small space and second door. The walls had shelves, used probably to store the stuff that was needed the most. If somebody needed it, he could easily take it without going deep inside the cellar.

In this place there was a second door. Pros of having double door in the root cellar are the following. First and foremost: it allowed to have a separate room with a different climate inside. Warmer in the summer, cooler in winter. It also allowed the temperature in the second room to be more stable during the year. It is also quite important.

The root cellar we’re showing in this video had a window or second, smaller door, we’re not sure as there are not many traces left. This door was used to make loading large amount of produce (like potates for example) much easier and faster. If it was supposed to be used as a shelter, this hole would have to be closed and covered with dirt.

This root cellar is not large. The lenght of this room is about 4 meters (12 feet) long, and 2,5 meters (8 feet) wide. It’s more than enough for a couple of people to stay here during tough times. Behind me and in front of me is enough room to install bunk beds for at least 4 people. Below the place where’s the hole that should be closed there’s enough room for a table, maybe a cupboard, a stove for cooking. The rest of space would be used to store food. This is the place where the beds would end, and here we have enough space for two 1 000 liter (260 gal) tanks, so that we would have 2 000 liters (over 500 gallons) of water. Here is room for shelves for storing food, a couple gas canisters or tanks with ethanol fuel. This space could be enclosed with cupboards or a plywood to make a small toilet. If necessary, the first room might be used as a toilet. Time spent there would be short, so the radiation would affect the person there less.

This root cellar has no ventillation system. The doors were probably not airtight, and the air infiltration was sufficient for the food stored there. Food storage requires only limited amount of ventillation. But if you were to stay here for a longer time, much more air would be needed. This ventillation would have to be equipped with an air filter (to keep all the radioactive dust particles outside). It’s good to have this filter outside, so that all the particles collected don’t emit the radiation inside. The ventillation should also have a proper fan to blow enough air inside. The question is if it should be electric-powered, or maybe operated manually. It would be best if it was an electric fan that provided constant, small overpressure, as there’s no way to make the doors 100% airtight. This overpressure would force any leaks to be from inside out.

If you think this kind of root cellar is very expensive, lucklilly you’re wrong. The cost of building one is probably around couple thousand of dollars or euros. Of course, most of you won’t build it, especially that many of you live in the city. But even in this case, if you have an apartment in town and a bug-out location somewhere else, you should consider building such root cellar. If you can’t build even a simplest one, the “Nuclear War Survival Skills” book shows how you can make an expedient fallout shelter within 24 hours. If will keep you safe from the radiation as well.

The post Root cellar: shelter and pantry in one appeared first on Dwelling Survival.

In Poland we cook using gas or electric stoves. But it’s wise to have an emergency heat source for this purpose. Sure, you can eat raw eggs and drink cold water that was not boiled first. It’s a lot more pleasant to eat a hot meal, and some foods cannot be eaten raw. Can you imagine eating raw rice, that was only held in water for some time, or uncooked pasta, or flour? If you hunt, it’s wise to cook the meat first, and not be infected with some kind of parasite.

Gasoline or alcohol stoves were introduced earlier than gas stoves. But now the gas stoves are very popular and used mostly in tourism. Stoves that use liquid fuels are also being sold now, but they are very expensive. It’s much easier to get a used stove of this kind and I want to show you two models of such a stoves.

This is a soviet Rekord-1, a copy of Primus No. 1 stove, that was first produced over 120 years ago! The most important part is the burner, of course, designed so that the fuel from the tank is heated and evaporated in those pipes first, and then supplied to the burner through a nozzle as a vapour. You poured some fuel onto the small plate below the burner and light it to heat up the burner before using the stove. On the side of the tank you can see a opening for refueling, and a pump used to increase the pressure inside the tank. This knob was used to release some of the pressure. By changing the pressure in the tank, you change how large the flame is.

Primus No. 1 stove was seen as a very reliable heat source, for the time it was introduced. That’s the reason it was used in a couple pole expeditions, including the one led to sounh pole by Amundsen, and also by climbers going to Mt. Everest.

This Primus Turisticznyj is nothing else than a copy of Optimus 8R “Hunter” stove. As the one before, it has a burner with a nozzle, and a plate for heating the burner. In this stove, this knob is used to adjust the flame. The fuel tank comes with a shield to be closed soon after lighting the stove to keep it from heating too much. This stove is easier to use than the previous one, as it requires no pumping, but it also makes it less safe to use, which is a disadvantage.

I’d also like to show you a simple do-it-yourself alcohols stove. It can be made from two beer cans, using only simple tools. We won’t be showing you how to do it just now, as you can already find plenty of such videos on YT.

This stove is lightweight, reliable, costs next to nothing and it’s pretty versatile in terms of fuels, but on the other hand, you can’t adjust the flame easily. It would be possible if you added a cover made from another beer can to block a part of the burner.

The alcohol and gasoline stoves are less reliable than gas stoves. They are more difficult to start. It means that somebody who never used a stove like that and has no experience might have difficulites using it. Such a person should buy a gas stove instead.

But on the other hand, such stoves are more versatile in terms of fuel, as they don’t need propane in a can. One could imagine fueling such a stove with gasoline, petroleum solvent, ethanol, lighter fluid, or any mix of those fuels. You can also make alcohol on your own, and then use it for a stove.

Is it worth to have a gasoline or alcohol stove? It sure is! But you don’t need to buy one, just make your own from two beer cans. In worst case scenario it would cost you as much as those two beers.

If you’re thinking about buying one, wait till we cover all the other emergency stoves available.

The post Emergency gasoline and alcohol stoves appeared first on Dwelling Survival.

Of course, you fill up the bathtub, because after you finish watching this video and reading this article, you’ll see if your bathtub plug is 100% tight.

Meanwhile, you gather all the buckets you can get. An average Pole has two buckets in his house — one to wash the floors, and the other as a refuse bin. None of those can be used to store drinking water, without being cleaned and sanitized first. But you fill those up as well nevertherless. You also take the two other clean buckets from the closet, waiting there for such an event. You throw what’s inside, and then pour water.

You do exactly the same thing with all large bowls and pots.

If you have a basket for laundry, you can use it to store water as well. You only need to put a blanket inside, and then a large plastic bag. What’s the blanket for? It’ll keep the bag from being punctured.

What if you only have a shower? And the plug is broken? You put few layers of plastic foil inside, and have 100% sealed water container.

If your shower is too shallow, you can use two or three boards to make the sides higher, and then put the foil inside.

You also pour water in all the sinks in the house. If your double kitchen sink has only one plug, you put a trash bag inside and fill it as well. Even if the bag is not large enough, you will be able to store some extra water this way.

In the worst case you can put a bag in a cardboard box, cut a hole in the bottom and use a cut corner as a faucet.

And by doing all that you expand your emergency water supply for short-term events by two or three times.

When you finish watching the video, buy suitable plastic bags and all the missing plugs for your sinks. And at least two plastic buckets. You won’t be carrying the clean drinking water in a dirty bucket used previously for trash. Five- or ten-liter buckets for food products would be best, especially if they have lids. Those lids will keep the water inside when you’re bringing them home.

On the other hand, it would be wise to have a permanent water storage at your home. We will discuss it in one of the next videos.

The post Emergency water storage for short-term disasters appeared first on Dwelling Survival.

This was the beginning of the very painful and difficult period for Poland. We lost over 5,6 millions of people, which accounts for over 16% of all the population.

And in 1945 Poland was to some extent incorporated to the Soviet Union, which lasted till 1989. But to this day people believe that former soviet agents and politics with strong affiliations for Russia are still in power.

The war itself was hell. But the time after the war caused a lot of damages to the country as well. If you compare economies of Germany and Poland you will see exactly what could be achieved if it was not for the communist government. We still see a lot of homo sovieticus in Poland, people who are not venturesome, who will take what is given to them, but will not want to take it by themselves. And on top of that, we have more people on disability pensions (monthly allowance paid simply because you can’t work) than Yugoslavia, that had a war almost 25 years ago. Of course we all know that a lot of those pensions are fraudulent, but the government doesn’t care.

It’s pretty funny if you take into account that people here should have all those events in mind, but still will make stupid decisions that may affect their lifetime. That’s why we try to get more and more people to know about the modern survivalism and preparedness.

War. War never changes. And people don’t change, too. But wars and the aftermath can change people for several decades and generations. Poland is an example of this change.

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My VW was manufactured in 1979 (it was the year the third generation of Transporter, sold in Europe as Transporter/Caravelle and in America as Vanagon) and fitted with all kinds of camping equipment. It had a foldable bed, a pretty good refrigerator (that worked on both 12V and 230V power, as well as propane gas), a two-burner stove to cook on, a sink, a small tank for clean water, a table, and a lot of cupboards. Oh, and a small pop-up roof that allowed me to stand upright when I was cooking, improved the ventillation, but had no other benefits.

It had enough space for 2 adults to sleep, but I was able to use it with my girlfriend and my 3 y.o. son as well. It wasn’t equipped with a toilet and shower, but that didn’t force me to use it only on campsites/campgrounds. I spent some time using it on my piece of land I now consider my main bug-out location.

Wasn’t it lovely? It sure was.
The VW on my BOL.

As I commented some time ago on Ferfal’s blog, I believe that buying a camper van, motorhome, RV (recreational vehicle) or a camper trailer for the sole purpose of bugging out when needed is a dumb idea.

But it sure is an interesting option to consider.

Camping in a well equipped motorhome or camper trailer can be a lot of fun. It sure is less comfortable than sleeping in a hotel, but gives you much more freedom to go wherever you want. In some countries you can park the van anywhere, and stay in the spot for a couple of days — for as long as you have clean water and space in the wastewater tank.

I recall a trip to Masurian Lake District in Poland and to Lithuania with a friends of mine, when we slept only 3 of 8 nights on campsites. It might be even more fun if we had a chemical toilet or a shower in my camper van.

Camper van or camper trailer as a bug-out vehicle

Let’s focus on the more important matter — which features of a camper van or trailer are useful when bugging out?

It depends on your bug-out strategy.

If you already have set up a bug-out location (BOL), equipped with energy and heat source, then in most cases you only need to get there as soon as possible. All-terrain capabilities might be useful as well. Long range, good fuel efficiency — also.

In this case, the camper van/motorhome is not a good choice. It’s probably slow, uses a lot of fuel, isn’t able to drive off road.

Camper trailer will be as useful as the car/van/truck that’s towing it. But towing a trailer also decreases fuel efficiency, maximum speed, makes driving off-road a lot more difficult (if possible).

But there’s another option.

Camper van / trailer on an improvised bug-out location

If you don’t have a BOL set up at the moment, but only have a plot of land somewhere (or even don’t have that), then camper trailer or camper van makes a lot more sense.

This is exactly the way I used mine — I went to spend some time on my future BOL, slept there, did some construction stuff, etc. If I had to evacuate from my city at that moment, I would take the RV and simply drive to my place in the sticks, and stay there for as long as possible.

Which wouldn’t be very long, as it had no other heating except for the van’s engine. But motorhomes are equipped with gas heating, water tanks, water heaters, showers and toilets. So if you only provide enough fuel for heating (and storing propane is pretty easy, but not cheap) and water, than you’re good to go.

Of course, spending cold, winter nights in a camper trailer would not be very pleasant, but a man’s got to do what a man’s got to do, right?

Camper van / trailer as a BOL in the city

Camper van or camper trailer would be very useful if you were forced to leave your house/apartment for some time, but didn’t want to go far. If your house burns down to the ground, you would still have to go to work every day, so living in a camper might be a good idea.

A friend of mine spent 9 months living in a pretty comfortable motorhome. For some time I also considered it a good alternative to living in a small flat in the city — with more freedom, but less space and less costs.

And the answer is…?

Personally, I would only choose a camper van or a camper trailer as a bug-out solution, if:

• I had no permanent buildings on the desired bug-out location (or if I had no place to evacuate),
• I liked spending holidays traveling all over the country in that van/trailer.

In any other case, I would advise against it.

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