Dyeing and Processing

Textile Yarns and Threads

2014-11-20T01:45:00.003-08:00

Textile Yarns and Threads

Yarn is a long continuous length of interlocked fibres, suitable for use in the production

of textiles, sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving, embroidery, and rope making.

Thread is a type of yarn intended for sewing by hand or machine.

Yarns can be described as single or one-ply; ply, plied, or folded; or as cord, including

cable and hawser types.

Single yarns

Single, or one-ply, yarns are single strands composed of fibers held together by at

least a small amount of twist; or of filaments grouped together either with or without

twist; or of narrow strips of material

Single yarns of the spun type, composed of many short fibres, require twist to hold

them together and may be made with either S-twist or Z-twist. Single yarns are used

to make the greatest variety of fabrics.

Ply yarns:

Ply, plied, or folded, yarns are composed of two or more single yarns twisted together.

Two-ply yarn, for example, is composed of two single strands; three-ply yarn is

composed of three single strands.

In making ply yarns from spun strands, the individual strands are usually each twisted

in one direction and are then combined and twisted in the opposite direction. When

both the single strands and the final ply yarns are twisted in the same direction, the

fibre is firmer, producing harder texture and reducing flexibility. Ply yarns provide

strength for heavy industrial fabrics and are also used for delicate-looking sheer

fabrics.

Cord yarns:

Cord yarns are produced by twisting ply yarns together, with the final twist usually

applied in the opposite direction of the ply twist.

Cable cords may follow an SZS form, with S-twisted singles made into Z-twisted plies

that are then combined with an S-twist, or may follow a ZSZ form. Hawser cord may

follow an SSZ or a ZZS pattern. Cord yarns may be used as rope or twine, may be

made into very heavy industrial fabrics, or may be composed of extremely fine fibres

that are made up into sheer dress fabrics.

Novelty yarns:

Novelty yarns include a wide variety of yarns made with such special effects as slubs,

produced by intentionally including small lumps in the yarn structure, and man-made

yarns with varying thickness introduced during production.

Textile Yarn Faults

2014-11-20T01:18:00.003-08:00

Article by RESIL

What are Yarn Faults?

Yarn quality is influenced by various types of yarn faults that also affect the quality of fabric

produced. During the yarn manufacturing process various types of irregularities are generated

in the yarn diameter regularly or at intervals, commonly known as yarn faults. These faults are

categorized as below:

1. Frequently Occurring Faults( Analyzed by Uster Evenness Tester)

2. Seldom Occurring Faults( Scanned by Uster Classimat Tester)

Frequently Occurring Faults:

• Thick Places

• Thin Places

• Neps

Thin places and thick places are produced due to drafting irregularities and neps are generated due toimmature fibers in raw material.

Why to avoid yarn faults:

• Causes breaks during post spinning operations.

• Reduces aesthetic appeal of the fabric, if allowed to pass.

Objectionable yarn faults can be categorized in three groups:

1. Faults due to raw material

2. Faults due to piecing

3. Faults due to Spinning machine

Calendering Process :- A Technical article By RESIL TEAM

2014-11-19T23:25:00.002-08:00

Calendering Process :- A Technical article By RESIL TEAM

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What is Calendering Process?

Calendaring is the process of smoothing and compressing a textile material by passing a single

continuous sheet of fabric through a number of pairs of heated rolls.

The rolls in combination are called calenders. Calender rolls are constructed of steel with a

hardened surface, or steel covered with fiber.

Purpose of doing Calendering Process for textiles:

The fabric is then run through rollers that polish the surface and make the fabric smoother and

more lustrous. Due to High temperatures and pressure the Fabrics that go through the

calendering process feel thin, glossy and papery.

Types of calandering Machine:

Nipco-Flex Calender:

The pressure application concept of this calender is different from the conventional

calendering system.

The pressing roller consists of a rotating shell that is covered with a highly elastic plastic

material named as RACOLAN.

The roller has fixed axels on which hydrostatic support elements are mounted that press the

racolan shell against either steel or a cotton/paper roller.

The hydrostatic pressure is applied with oil and is adjustable according to width of the cloth.

The NIPCO roller can be arranged in vertical position or in L shape with a hot steel roller at top

and a cotton bowl in front of it.

The main advantages of NIPCO calender over a conventional calender are;

1. Attainment of very high pressure.

2. Adjustment of pressure line according to width of cloth.

3. No over load at the fabric selvedge.

4. Easy installation and removal of the rollers.

Felt Calender:

Felt calenders are mainly used for imparting lustre and smoothness to silk, rayon and cotton

knitwear materials.

These work at low pressure and temperature than used for cotton.

The cloth is pressed between an endless felt blanket and a hot steel cylinder at a speed of 20 to 40 meters/minutes

Dyeing without water

2013-01-03T22:55:00.001-08:00

Textile dying and treatment processes produce 17 to 20 percent of industrial water pollution in the world. 72 toxic chemicals, 30 of which cannot be removed, have been found in our water solely from textile dyeing. As a vital part of textile production, the dyeing processes cause a large problem for designers who are trying to be more environmentally conscious.

AirDye® technology is a water free dyeing and printing process. AirDye technology has been produced by AirDye Solutions, formerly Colorep Inc., and is a technology development and textile design company. On their website AirDye Solutions describe themselves as, “passionate about creating new printing and dyeing technologies that improve quality, value, and accessibility while helping to sustain the planet.”
AirDye technology uses a one-step process, where the liquid state of dye is eliminated altogether. The process starts with heating fabric and simultaneously dye is injected into the fibers in the form of gas. “The entire process is waste-free: the paper is recycled, and used dyes and toners are also recycled to make tar and asphalt.” One downfall is that only synthetic textiles can be dyed using AirDye, as the physics of the technology do not work with natural fibers such as cotton.
Up to 95% of the water, 86% of the energy and 84% of the green house gases can be saved using AieDye as compared to conventional print and dye methods. Up to 45 gallons of water can be saved in the production of just one garment. The dying of synthetic fabrics alone uses 2.4 trillion gallons of water, every year, and with an unknown/untold amount of environmental damage.
AirDye technology creates a large opportunity for regions around the globe that cannot obtain water as easily, to localize textile production.  As AirDye technology improves, more water/energy will be saved and hopefully the mass market of textile production could be ready for a monumental change.

AirDye® Technology

Waterless Dyeing of Polyester

2012-08-31T05:36:00.000-07:00

DryDye technology

DyeCoo Textile Systems, a Netherlands-based company, created DryDye technology and the first commercially available textile dyeing machines to use recycled carbon dioxide instead of water. The name “DyeCoo” was derived from the process of “dyeing” with “CO2” (carbon dioxide).

DryDye fabrics are dyed using supercritical fluid CO2, which means carbon dioxide is in the form of an expanded liquid or heavily compressed gas. Once the CO2 is heated to 120 degrees Celsius and pressurized, it can then color synthetic fibers and enhances the distribution of dyes into fabrics, as stated on DyeCoo’s website.

Read About Waterless dyeing of polyester using supercritical carbondioxide by cschumacher here

Colorfastness to bleaching:Peroxide

2012-03-05T02:55:00.000-08:00

ISO-105-N02-1995
This method is intended for determining the resistance of the colour of textiles of all kinds, and in all forms, to the action of bleaching baths containing peroxide in concentrations commonly used in textile processing. A specimen of the textile in contact with adjacent fabrics is immersed in the bleaching solution, rinsed and dried. The change in color and the staining . Brief description
Bath1 (for natural and regenerated cellulose)
Treat the test specimen and adjacent fabric in bleach solution containing 5 ml /ltr hydrogen peroxide ( 30% solution) ,5 ml/l sodium silicate and 0.1 gpl of magnesium chloride. Set the initial pH 10.5 ,m:l 1:30, for 1 hr at 90 deg cel. Rinse for 10 min in cold water ,squeeze and hang to dry in warm air at max 60 deg cel.
Bath 2.(for natural and regenerated cellulose)
sodium peroxide(30%) 3 gpl
sodium silicate solution 5 ml/l
magnesium chloride 0.1 gm/l
Initial pH 11.3-11.7
M;L 1:30,temperature 80 deg cel for 60 min.
Bath 3( for wool and acetate)
Hydrogen peroxide(30%) 20 gpl
sodium pyrophosphate 5 ml/l
magnesium chloride 0.1 gm/l
Initial pH 10.0
M;L 1:30,temperature 70 deg cel for 120 min.
Bath 4( for silk)
Hydrogen peroxide(30%) 20 gpl
sodium silicate solution 5 ml/l
Initial pH 9.3
M;L 1:30,temperature 50 deg cel for 120 min. For detailed information on the subject please go here BS-en-ISO-105-N02-1995
http://www.dfmg.com.tw/member/standard/bs/BS-N02.HTM

Printing Technology

2012-02-21T21:44:00.001-08:00

What is screen printing

Textile printing refers to the production of designs of any kind that could not be made on textile fabrics by normal weaving/knitting techniques. Before the printing process, the cloth should be thoroughly prepared by different wet process namely designing, scouring and bleaching. Printing is mainly done on finished fabrics, curtain clothes, ladies dress materials, bed sheets, bed covers, fabric for children garments, gents shirts etc. to improve its attractiveness, marketability etc.

Screen printing can be done in single colour or in combination of different colours as per end use requirement. Colour combination is an important area by which the appearance of an ordinary fabric can be improved to a maximum extent. It is, therefore, necessary that the quality printing material, chemicals and printing screen should be good so that printed items are fully accepted in the market.

The various steps involved in printing process are

1.preparation of printing paste,

2.printing of fabric,

3.fixation of dye stuff by curing/steaming,

4.washing off,

5.calendering,

6.folding and packing.

It uses a rigid frame to support a porous mesh (screen) which, in turn, supports a stencil (design). Screens containing the designs is placed over the table and the dye paste is pressed over the screen by means of rubber squeezer. The stencil lets dye paste pass through the mesh (print area) and blocks it everywhere else, to produce an image. A variety of mesh/stencil/squeegee combinations provide a wide range of printing capabilities, thus making screen printing one of the most versatile printing processes known. This same versatility appeals to entrepreneurs in a nearly unlimited number of industries; the wide variety of uses makes screen printing that much more attractive.The selection of dyes and gums depends on the construction of basic cloth to be printed and their end use. After printing, the printed clothes are cured or steamed for the fixation of the colour. Later, the printed material is thoroughly washed to remove loose dye stuffs. Then, it is calendered, folded and packed for the delivery.

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Quality Control and Standards

A quality printed item should have good fastness to washing, rubbing and light. This can be achieved by properly fixing the print on the cloth by curing or steaming. Dyes to be used should be of good quality and capable of giving bright shades. Printing quality is not covered by any specifications.

Screen Printing in General
Applications of screen printing
Silk Screen Printing Instructions
Printing Process Description :- Introduction to Screen Printing
Digital Textile Priniting :- A guide for beginners
Digital Textile Priniting:-Read Article
Digital Textile Priniting:-Emerging Technologies for Digital Textile Printing
Digital Textile Printing:- An Articles Library

Light-emitting nanofibers shine the way for optoelectronic textiles

2012-02-21T20:58:00.000-08:00

Light-emitting nanofibers shine the way for optoelectronic textiles
OLEDs in fiber form could lead to revolutionary applications by integrating optical and optoelectronic devices into textile. Combined with nanoelectronic devices, we might one day see flexible optical sensors and display screens woven into shirts and other garments. You could literally wear your next-generation smart phone or iPad on your sleeves; including the solar panels to power them. health tips

New reactive dyes save on salt and water | Dyes & Chemicals News

2012-02-15T21:10:00.000-08:00

New reactive dyes save on salt and water | Dyes & Chemicals News

Stop Cheating and republishing

2012-02-13T23:05:00.000-08:00

It is observed that some bloggers related to textile industry are copying and republishing material from this blog , i appeal to them please stop it and remove it from your blog.The information shared here is available to public you can share it and you can provide a link in your blog to share.

Cheating is one of the major evils of the society. It is because of this that many have been destroyed and some have even lost their lives. Although cheating sounds something very small, but the effect it leaves cannot be described. An entire family might die of hunger just because they were cheated. A person might loose all his wealth just because of cheating. One may loose his life just because he was cheated.

Allah dislikes cheating and the people who do it. in the Glorious Quran, Allah has warned those who indulge in cheating of dire consequences.

Allah says in Surah Al-Mutaffifeen 83: 1 “Woe to Al‑Mutaffifoon (those who give less in measure and weight). Those who, when they have to receive by measure from men, demand full measure, And when they have to give by measure or weight to (other) men, give less than due” [al-Mutaffifeen 83:1]

Nike backs waterless dyeing | Dyes & Chemicals News

2012-02-08T22:44:00.000-08:00

Nike backs waterless dyeing | Dyes & Chemicals News
BEAVERTON – Nike has entered into a strategic partnership with DyeCoo Textile Systems B.V., a Netherlands-based machinery builder that has developed and built the first commercially available waterless textile dyeing machines that use CO₂ instead of water.
But with operating pressures for these machines reaching a massive 250 bar, can this technology really take off?

Colorfastness to bleaching:Peroxide

2012-02-03T03:59:00.000-08:00

This method is intended for determining the resistance of the colour of textiles of all kinds, and in all forms, to the action of bleaching baths containing peroxide in concentrations commonly used in textile processing.

A specimen of the textile in contact with adjacent fabrics is immersed in the bleaching solution, rinsed and dried. The change in colour and the staining .

for more details click here:http://www.dfmg.com.tw/member/standard/bs/BS-N02.HTM

NanoKTN event focuses on ‘nano enhanced’ textiles

2012-02-01T20:52:00.000-08:00

NanoKTN event focuses on ‘nano enhanced’ textiles

The Nanotechnology Knowledge Transfer Network (NanoKTN) has announced details of a workshop highlighting new developments applied to textiles using embedded electronics, 'smart' materials and surface coatings technologies.

Once applied to textiles they can enable interactivity, functionality and protection.

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2012-02-01T04:31:00.000-08:00

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Mineral and Clay Based textile bleaching

2012-01-29T03:39:00.000-08:00

Now a days many commercial products based on innovative clay or mineral chemistry are available for discontinuous bleaching of cotton and its blends with hydrogen peroxide. The clay or mineral technology have several advantages over conventional peroxide bleaching process.

What are these clay or mineral based products

(http://dyeingworld1.blogspot.com)

The clay or mineral based products are a composition of naturally occurring mineral or clays such as montmorillonite and/or bentonite in combination with suitable wetting , sequestering agents and viscosity control agents . The clay is finely dispersed in the form of a non settling, non separating emulsion which can be diluted with water and can be used easily. The clay structure is based on sheets. By separating these sheets e.g. by stirring, a very big surface is created This surface (till 800 M 2 per gram) makes it possible to absorb all kind of components like dirt, oil, greases etc. This gives an unique detergency effect .Two properties of montmorillonite crystals enable its use as a highly effective bleaching agent:

•On the one hand, impurities are adsorbed from the fabric and the liquor, due to the high specific surface area.

•On the other hand, montmorillonite has the property to replace disturbing heavy metal ions in the bleaching bath by Na-ions

The result is a dual effect as bleaching stabiliser and extractant.

How these products acts
(http://dyeingworld1.blogspot.com)

In water the clay particles are anionic charged and show a large adsorption effect for:

Hydrophobic waxes and oils

Metal ions (cation exchange capacity)

Hydrophilic materials and polymers

It is believed that the clay component provides both a scouring and softening effect, in essence by adsorbing organic contaminants and acting as an ion exchanger, in effect having a contaminant-suspending capacity. The powder or agglomerate particles of the clay divide into primary crystal plates caused by the swelling of the clay. The average size of the primary crystal plates is approximately 1.mu.. After being dispersed in the treatment liquor, the contaminants detached from the treated textile material are adsorbed by the clay particles, resulting in a greatly reduced redeposition of the contaminants. Textile incrustation is reduced due to the hardness elements released during washing having either become attached to the dispersed clay crystals or having been deactivated by the sequestrant. Clay, a natural product, washes off the treated textile material and forms an effluent having low BOD and COD values. The clay does not contribute to the BOD or COD values at all.(Ref: Clay-containing textile material treating composition and method by Brown; Harold M. (Lyman, SC))

The higher whiteness index of the treated textile materials is attributed to the fact that in this bleaching system the hydrogen peroxide is consumed to the maximum extent ,resulting into very low or zero residual peroxide.

Advantages of these single-component multifunctional auxiliaries are

(http://dyeingworld1.blogspot.com)

1.No need of Organic peroxide stabilizers,

2.No need of Dye bath Lubricants,

3.No need of Wetting and scouring agents

4.No need of Emulsifiers in most applications,

5.No need of Antifoaming agent.

6.No need of Machine cleaning aids.

7.Very low or no need of peroxide killer treatment.

8.Shortened bleaching cycle , less water and steam consumption.

9. Low loss of degree of polymerisation, due to controlled peroxide degradation

10.Better tensile strength compared with conventionally bleached fabric

11.Lower weight loss.

12, Better removal of oil or silicone

And since these products are derived from clay or natural resources these are eco friendly in nature , having low COD and BOD values

A typical bleaching recipe for cellulosic material is

(http://dyeingworld1.blogspot.com)

Best suitable for package dyeing machines , jets and winches .

1-2 ml/l Clay product

2-3 g/l Caustic flakes

2-5 ml/l Hydrogen peroxide 35%

At 95 -98 oC for 45-60 min

Test the peroxide content at equal intervals and ensure maximum utilization of peroxide , to optimize the process timing.

Followed by hot and cold wash, do peroxide killing if necessary.

Machine Embroidery

2012-01-27T02:09:00.000-08:00

Watch the slide show on textiles and click your favorite topic

Embroidery

Embroidery is the art or handicraft of decorating fabric or other materials with needle and thread or yarn. Embroidery designs are the way to add excellence and creativity to the garments and several other form of products. It is a way to give a professional and sophisticated outlook to the textiles. Embroidery design is used to create eye-catching effects and striking images on the garments, clothing and several forms of outfits and home textiles.

Hand Embroidery

The craft of hand embroidery has a long and interesting tradition and has bought many hours of creative pleasure to women for generations.

Machine Embroidery

Because the hand embroidery is a time consuming process and depends largely on the human skills , at the same time it is not possible to go for large scale commercial production of the same design . These disadvantages of hand embroidery led to the development of machine and now digital or computerized machines for embroidery. There are two main types of machine embroidery. The first, free-motion sewing machine embroidery, uses a basic zigzag sewing machine. The second, computerized machine embroidery, uses an embroidery machine or sewing/embroidery machine. With the advancement of computer technology, machine embroidery is improving very fast in its look and quality

Dyed on Dyed Embroidery

When the embroidery is done on a previously dyed fabric or garment either with in the same shade or in different shade or color combination.

Grieg on Greig embroidery

When the embroidery is done on either a greig or ready to dye fabric , which is then overdyed in different colors or shades , to produce articles of same embroidered patterns in different shades.

Selection of a good embroidery thread

Selecting the proper thread is achieved by first determining the end-use requirements of the embroidered products. Other factors that are considered include the type of material being embroidered, the type of embroidery machines being used, conditions under which the product must perform, and cost effectiveness.

Types of threads used in machine embroidery

1.Soft cotton threads are used where dull look is required or in traditional articles to match the outfit designs.

Mercerized cotton threads

2.Mercerized cotton threads have more lusture , more strength and clean finish , and higher dye pick up make them suitable to produce deeper and brighter shades.

3.Viscose rayon threads replace traditionally used silk threads . These have good shine, brighter shades and clean finish .

4.Spun polyester threads give the look of a cotton thread, but provide superior strength and durability. Polyester is colorfast, resistant to chemicals, and can be washed or dry-cleaned with most common cleaning solvents.

Polyester filament threads

Trilobal polyester is a multiple filament, twisted, high-sheen continuous fiber thread. It has the bright appearance of rayon or silk. If the desired effect is strength, durability, softness, and brightness, trilobal polyester is perfect for the job. It is wash, boil, and lightfast and also has a high resistance to chlorine and abrasion.

Others such as

1. Metallic threads ,

2. Aramid threads

3. Silk threads

4. Glowing or fluorescent threads in cotton and polyester.

5. Multi colored or tie and dye effect threads in cotton and polyester.

6. and polyester cotton core spun threads where core and sheath are dyed in different shades are used for specific needs and finishes.

Quality requirements for embroidery threads

It should have good strength
Good lubricity
Low on dry and wet shrinkage
Good over all color fastness
Evenly dyed
Free from knots , fluffs and thick and thin places.
TPI and Twist direction of thread as per the embroidery machine requirement.
Non Metameric ie the shade of embroidery thread should match the base fabric in different light sources or remain same in different light sources.

Selection of dyed threads for dyed on dyed embroidery

Proper Shade matching
Even dyeing within lot
Lot to Lot shade matching of embroidery thread as well as Fabric.
No shade change from sampling to bulk production.

The dyed on dyed embroidery option is considered where

When the substrate of fabric and embroidery thread is different eg polyester or rayon embroidery on cotton fabric and dyeing after embroidery is not possible.
When fabric and thread have same color but over dyeing is not possible due to smaller lot size etc.
A larger length of fabric is embroidered in multiple designs with same color thread in combination with others colors or qualities of thread.
In case of embroidery on finished garments .

Problems encountered in dyed on dyed embroidery fabrics

1. Shade matching is not proper from sampling stage to bulk production due to shade change of embroidery yarn and /or fabric in bulk production.

2. Shade mismatch in different light sources, due to metamerism.

3. Poor colorfastness of thread or fabric resulting into cross staining.

4. Lot to lot shade difference either in yarn or fabric or both.

5. Unlevel dyeing of embroidery thread.

Types of threads mainly used in greig on greig embroidery

The greig on greig embroidery is mostly done for 100% cotton fabric ,with 100% cotton or rayon embroidery threads.

This is suitable when,

When the fabric and embroidery yarn are dyeable with same dyestuff to produce a same shade.
Larger quantities of fabric are required with same shade of cloth and embroidery.
When a same embroidery pattern is repeated in different shades , the cloth is dyed in different shades after embroidery.

Problems encountered in overdyeing of greig on greig embroidery fabrics

Uneven dyeing if different qualities of embroidery threads are used simultaneously due to difference in dye pick up.
Shade difference in embroidery and fabric is observed when there is difference between fabric quality and thread quality is there , such as mercerized cotton fabric and soft thread or vice versa.
Shade difference between fabric and thread , due to difference in pretreatment of fabric and yarn such as greig fabric and RFD thread or vice versa.
Wrong quality of thread is used such as synthetic thread on cotton fabric.
Shade difference between embroidery due to mixing of different lots of embroidery thread such as different lots of mercerized threads.
Uneven dyeing of heavy embroidery patterns because if poor penetration of dyes in embroidered portions of fabric.
Uneven dye pick up of embroidered patterns due poor pretreatments such as scouring and bleaching and insufficient dyeing time for proper dye penetration and leveling .

Colorfastness requirement of embroidery threads

Good wash fastness :- The overall wash fastness properties of embroidery threads must be superior to the base fabric to avoid cross staining .
Good rubbing or crocking fastness
Good fastness to dry cleaning
High sublimation fastness in case of polyester threads
Good light fastness
Good chemical wash fastness :- fastness to chemicals such as chlorine or mild bleaching agents.

Problems in Garment Dyeing

2012-01-20T02:33:00.000-08:00

With today’s exploding clothing markets of leisure , casual wear and sports wear , garment wet processing has emerged as one of the best production routes towards meeting the quick changing fashion markets.

Unlike fabric or yarn as a substrate , a garment is not a uniform in texture ,it is full of thick places like seams , multilayered sites like pockets , cuffs and shoulders. At times certain unevenness like puckered seams lend a distinct style often highly valued but it could result into rejection of goods at other times .

Here we will try to figure out certain key problems associated with garment dyeing and their possible causes, so that a garment can analyze and overcome these problems.

Garment size control and appearance

variations in yarn size / twist
ends per inch
picks per inch
courses per inch in the knitted fabrics

Spirality in Knitted Fabrics

Twist of the yarn
Fibre parameters,
Yarn formation system,
Yarn geometry,
Knit structure
Fabric finishing.

Poor tear strength of garment

Degradation of cotton during
pretreatment,
dyeing and
finishing such as stone /enzyme washing.

Pilling

Low twisted yarns.
Use of low staple length, cheaper fibre in manufacture of yarns
Surface friction of fabrics/garments during wet processing and handling
Reworking of goods
Cylinder rotation is too high.
Liquor ratio is too low.
Excessive cycle time

Puckering of seams during dyeing

Improper selection of stitching thread.
Due to high twist in sewing thread
High residual and wet shrinkage of sewing threads
High stitching tension and improper stitch length..

Poor Rubbing fastness

Improper washing and soaping treatment after dyeing.
Too much unexhausted dye in dyebath.
Loosely held surface indigo dyes
Considerable back staining in each step
Exposure to atmospheric ozone

Poor light fastness

Use of reactive dyes which are not light fast
Use of formaldehyde based dyefixing agents

White, undyed or light seams

Use of improper thread such as polyester thread on cotton garments.
Use of mercerized thread on unmercerized garments.
Mixing of different types of threads such as mercerized and un mercerized .
High tension stitching .
Unmatched Shrinkage behavior of garment and thread .

Dullness around Metallic fittings

Corrosion and chemical reaction between metallic parts in
Pretreatment
Bleaching
Dyeing
Finishing

Streakmarks/ Lines / Creases

Overloading of machine
Friction between Garments
Entanglement of garments.

Shade nonuniformity

Differences in fabric preparation processes like

Desizing,
Scouring
Bleaching.

Inconsistency in the garment assembly

Poor Dye Yield

Garments contain a finish, softener, or an optical brightener.
Garments were allowed to dry out after pretreatment stage
Liquor ratio is too high.
Agitation is too slow.

Excessive washing between cycles.
Excessive time spent in any cycle.
Too much/too little pretreatment.
Not pretreated for correct time and/or temperature.

Blotchy or Non-Uniformly Dyed Garments

Garments contain a finish, softener, or an optical brightener.
Liquor ratio is too low (want 20:1).
Excessive bath temperature at beginning of pretreat or dye cycle.
Dye bath temperature ramped too quickly .
Improper addition or dilution of dyes/chemicals.
Live steam injection into bath.
Hard water.
Garments not scoured properly
Garments were allowed to dry out after pretreatment stage
Garments not allowed to wet-out sufficiently before adding pretreatment.

Patchy dyeing

Starting temperature too high
Heating rate too High
Salt addition at high temperature
Addition of dyes and chemical at once

Spotting

Formation of foam
Improper washing
Machine not clean.
Excess pretreat not rinsed from garment before dyeing.
Dye not properly diluted or stirred before bath addition.
Incompatibility of auxiliaries.

Harshness

Insufficient size removal
Use of high quantities of alkali
Poor softner application

Smell

Acetic acid,
Residual chlorine,
Cationic softners

Back staining

Improper maintenance of

pH
Temperature

Blotchy / unlevel dyeing in pigment dyeing

Improper preparation
Higher dosage of cationic reactant
High rate of rise in temperature during Cationization
Direct contact of steam with garment
Too low MLR hence uneven build-up of Cationizer

Batch to batch shade reproducibility in Pigment dyeing

Change in pH during cationization

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Polyester dyeing in HTHP dyeing machines

2012-01-16T01:39:00.000-08:00

Important factors: polyester dyeing in HTHP dyeing machines.
1.Water quality

Traces of soluble copper and iron salts can affect the shade of some disperse dyes quite markedly due to the formation of coordination complexes.The presence of calcium and magnesium cations can interfere with the anionic dye dispersing agents/leveling agents and wetting agents present in the dyebath. To overcome these problems a small amount of chelating agents might be added to the dyebath.

2.pH of the dyebath

Ideally the pH of the dyebath should be buffered by use of a quality pH regulator, in the range of 4.5-5.5 to minimize the possibility of dye hydrolysis.

3.Use of Surfactants in dyeing

There are a multitude of purposes for which anionic surface active agents are used in dyebaths, such as wetting, penetrating and deareation etc. anionic surface active are also used to stabilize the diluted dispersions of the dye.This is necessary particularly when dyeing paler shades where dyebath concentration of surfactant introduced with the dye itself is small.

The non ionic surfactants are generally used to control the rate of exchange of dyebath to the fiber.

4.Temperature
For most cost effective dyeing of polyester depends on factors such as starting temperature ,rate of heating ,dyeing temperature and duration of dyeing which should result into well exhausted bath ,satisfactory color uniformity and batch to batch shade consistency.
A general rule of thumb , the starting temperature of dyeing is 70-80 degrees , the rate of rise of temperature is 1.5-2 deg.Celsius /min and the dyeing temperature is between 115-135 deg.Celsius.
5.Time

For an ideal dyeing time selection , one must take into account the exhaustion of dye bath , uniformity of the dye , satisfactory color penetration , for good color fastness and reproducibility of the dyeing results. Generally 15-60 minutes of dyeing time is followed and it is not necessary to prolong the dyeing long beyond the time of maximum exhaustion.

6.Dyes

The dyes with similar dyeing characteristics must be selected for particular formulation, it is important to identify the actual dyeing rate of each component will be dependent on the concentration present in the formulation.Care should be taken that the dyeing conditions allow the slowest dyeing component to reach the effective equilibrium.

7.Oligomers

Typically polyester fibres contain between 1.5 and 3.5% by mass of low molecular esters, the principal oligomer being cyclic tris(ethylene terephthalate) with smaller quantities of a dimer, pentamer as well as traces of other compounds.

when oligomers are released from the polyester fibre, after some time
at 130° C, if an efficient dispersing agent not present in the bath to prevent crystallization of the oligomers, and to prevent small particles of oligomers coming together to form larger agglomerates, oligomers will deposit on the yarn and the machine.

Dispersing will maintain the oligomers in a fine dispersion so that when the machine is drained more oligomer goes down the drain. Discharging the dyebath at high temperature if this is possible can also reduce oligomer deposition because any of the material soluble during dyeing at a high temperature can precipitate during cooling.
8.Reduction Clearing
Reduction-clearing treatment is necessary to remove any dye remaining on the fibre surfaces, If not removed, this surface contamination can undermine the brightness of shade as well as the wash, sublimation and crock fastness results.Commonly, the dyed polyester is cleared of surface-deposited dye as well as auxiliaries (e.g. carriers, surfactants) by means of treatment with detergent or reductive or oxidative treatments, in order to secure optimum fastness of the dyeing and also to improve the brightness of shade.
The usual treatment carried out, especially in heavy depth, is reduction- clearing, where the dyed fibre is treated in a strong reducing bath, usually made up of sodium dithionite and caustic soda. A treatment for 20 minutes at approximately 70-80 deg Cel, is often sufficient to clear
the fibre surface, but the ease of removal varies from chromophore to chromophore and dye to dye. This treatment acts to destroy loose azo disperse dye through chemical reduction of the azo link . Anthraquinone disperse dyes are not fully destroyed by such a treatment but a degree of removal of surface dye is achieved through temporary solubilisation of the disperse dye to the alkali-leuco form.

9.Stripping
Stripping of disperse dyed material can be accomplished by treating goods
a. In a blank bath containing non ionic leveling agent at 130 deg.cel.
b.For chemical destruction of dye use 1-2 gpl NaOH and a reducing agent
or mild acidic treatment with zinc sulfoxlate-formaldehyde or sodium chlorite can reduce the shade to almost a off white back ground.

A New Study on Stripping for Polyester Fabrics

10.Prolonged treatment of polyester in alkaline solutions

Prolonged treatment of polyester goods in alkaline solutions will cause weight loss due to hydrolysis of polyester at the fiber surfaces, since the fiber surface has been eroded considerably after a long alkaline treatment it is very difficult to rework the goods to give them originally anticipated appearance.

Watch Video on HTHP package dyeing machine

Useful Auxiliaries and Ingredients Used in Textile

Q&A Session for Overview of Dye Classes and Methods of Coloration Webinar.

Problems with oligomer in dyeing polyester yarns and fabrics.

Dyeing with Disperse Dyes

Search for more information on the subject

Levelling agents

2012-01-13T23:41:00.000-08:00

in every dye house ,levelness of the dyeing is a major criteria , since unlevelled goods are usually not saleable ,causing loss to the manufacturer.

Leveling
Migration of applied dyes in a uniform manner throughout the dyed goods is called leveling and it may be a property of the dye or it may require some chemical assistance (of leveling agents which are dye bath additives
to promote level dyeing)
Levelling agents are invariably surfactants ;they may be anionic ,cationic,non ionic or amphoteric in nature .some times combinations of these are also used ,There are two fundamental mechanisms that can contribute to a level dyeing:

1.Control of rate of exhaustion of the dye so that it is taken evenly and slowly.

2.Migration of the dye after initial uneven sorption on the fiber.

In complex formation the principle of leveling is usually the same ,irrespective of whether non ionic or ionic agents are used , although the mode of complexing is different.

The attractive forces between leveling agent and dye creates a counter balancing mechanism against dye fiber attractive forces,restraining the uptake of dye by the fiber.

As the temperature of the dyebath increases , the complex gradually breaks down ,progressively releasing dye for more gradual sorption by the fiber.

further reading :-Role of leveling agents in textile wet processing
Explore for more information on leveling agents

How to Test pH of Textile material

2012-01-12T22:54:00.000-08:00

Testing of pH by water extraction method

Purpose of the test

The pH of the processed textiles must be neutral and within the prescribed limits for a particular end use. The textiles with higher pH value may exhibit yellowing tendencies ,create change of shade upon storage and during shipment, result into poor dye pick up , patchy dyeing and poor colorfastness. very high and very low pH results into degradation of textiles during storage and use , may result into poor softness and harsh feel. pH of apparel fabrics which are in direct contact with the skin or used for baby wear, must be controlled not to make the skin itchy.

The pH control is very important for in process quality as well as quality of the finished material.

Test method

Boil 250 ml distilled water or deionized water for 10 minutes and put 10+/- 0.1 gm of test specimen in it boil for another 10 minutes. Allow it cool down to room temperature , remove the specimen and squeeze back the excess water in the beaker.

Test the pH by using a calibrated pH meter within an accuracy of +/-0.1 on pH scale.

The pH of water extract must be tested after prior to dyeing if you are getting uneven dyeing and to be tested after completion of dyeing and soaping to avoid any problems in finishing such as softening and dye fixing etc.

This information is generalized for day to day in house process control, for detailed information please follow AATCC 81-2006

and ISO-3071.
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pH and pH buffers

2012-01-10T02:43:00.000-08:00

In chemistry, pH is a measure of the acidity or basicity of an aqueous solution. definition: pH is the negative logarithm of the hydrogen ion concentration. pH is a measure of the concentration of hydrogens ions ( H⁺ions or protons) in a solution.

pH scale

The pH scale was defined by Sören Sörensen, Danish biochemist, in 1909The pH scale measures how acidic or basic a substance is. The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14. A pH of 7 is neutral. A pH less than 7 is acidic and a pH more than 7 is alkaline.

Measuring pH

Measuring pH is essential not only in finding the chemical characteristics of a substance but also as the first step toward managing chemical reactions.

Measuring pH involve either the use of pH measuring electrodes or indicators whose colors are dependent on pH. A pH meter measures the difference in potential between a reference electrode insensitive to changes in pH and an electrode sensitive to such changes.

pH indicators based on color changes are normally used in the form of pH papers. The paper is wetted with the solution being measured and the resulting color is compared with color standards to determine the pH.

In the textile industry, measuring pH is important in product testing, pretreatments,dyeing and finishing processes.

pH buffers

A pH buffer is a substance that resists a change in pH when small amounts of an acid or a base are added to it. The pH of a buffer changes very little when small amounts of an acid or a base is added to the buffered solution. A buffer consists of approximately equal amounts of conjugate weak acid/base pair in equilibrium with each other . Strong acids and their conjugate bases do not produce a buffer since in strong acid ionization is complete and there is no equilibrium.

Why pH changes during a Textile dyeing process

Water quality
Reaction products
Additives during the process
Time
Temperature
Contaminants in the substrates.

Some pH buffers systems useful in textile pretreatment , dyeing and finishing.

HCl and sodium citrate pH 1-5

Citric Acid and sodium Citrate pH 2.5-5.6

Acetic Acid and Sodium Acetate pH 3.7-5.6

K₂HPO₄ and KH₂PO₄ pH 5.8-8.0

Na₂HPO₄ and NaH₂PO₄ pH 6-7.5

Borax and NaOH pH 9.2-11

pH in textile coloration

Most of the dyeing processes requires a controlled pH , such as slightly alkaline in direct dyes , strong alkaline in reactive , vat and azoics , acidic in disperse and basic dyes strongly acidic in acid dyes etc.

The control of pH in textile processing is ensured by fundamentally three different techniques , such as

The maintenance of a relatively high degree of acidity or alkalinity .
The control of pH within fairly narrow tolerances mainly in near neutral regions.
The gradual shift of pH as dyeing proceeds.

Many processes of textile processing are pH dependent.

Scouring of cotton in highly alkaline conditions
Bleaching of different substrates where pH has to be maintained for proper bleaching action.
Solubilising the dyestuffs.
Exhaustion and fixation
Oxidation
Stripping
Finishing

further reading
pH of textiles by water extraction method

Testing of common salt

2011-12-23T22:22:00.000-08:00

Testing of common salt (for dyeing purpose)

Salt in textile dyeing is mainly for exhaustion of dyes from the dye liquor to the substrate. It is also used in the water softening process to regenerate the zeolite .The salt used must be good quality , with low water hardness causing salts, minimum insoluble material and free from metal salt impurities.

Following common tests are done to ensure the good salt quality,

1.Moisture content

2.Dust or insoluble impurities

3. Water hardness caused by water when used in dyeing.

4.% purity of salt.

Moisture content :-

is tested by using a moisture meter or by drying and pre weighed sample in hot air oven .

Dust or insoluble impurities :-

By taking about 100 gms of dried salt sample and dissolve it 250 ml distilled water , allow the insoluble to settle down and then filter it with whatman filter paper no.40. dry and weigh the residue to find out the percentage .

Water hardness :-

Since salt is used in large quantities in reactive dyeing , therefore water hardness caused by salt affect the overall dyeing quality , therefore salt must be tested for water hardness .

Make a solution of 100 gpl salt and test it for water hardness , by using standard EDTA solution.

Purity :-

Take about 6 gms of sample accurately weighed and dissolved in distilled water , made upto 1 ltr. Take 50 ml aliquot and titrate it with 0.1 N silver nitrate solution using 5 % potassium chromate solution as indicator till a reddish orange tinge is obtained.

1 ml of 0.1 N silver nitrate = 0.005845 gm of NaCl

Quality parameter of Salt for Dyeing

pH of aq. Solution = neutral

Calcium = maximum 100 mg /kg

Magnesium = maximum 50 mg/ kg

Iron = maximum 0.01 mg/kg

Copper = not detectable

Hardness of 80 gpl solution = maximum 50 ppm

Moisture content = maximum 0.25 %

Insoluble dust = maximum 0.25%

Hair Colors

2011-12-22T23:18:00.000-08:00

Why coloring hair

Because it is the one thing that can dramatically change our appearance If we don't like the way we look! Also, it is quite fun to change it. I do agree that most of the time we look the best with our natural color. There are few reasons that why we want to dye hair,

(1) We want to lighten our hair more than three shades,

(2) We have dark hair and want to dye to make them light or ,

(3) We have natural light brown or blonde hair and want to dye it,

(4) We are re trying to fix a problem,

(5) We have light hair and want to make it darker.

(6). Many people think that gray is the first sign of aging and the end of his youth, so they go for hair coloring.

Natural hair dyes

Hair dye is one of the oldest known beauty preparations, and was used by ancient cultures in many parts of the world. Records of ancient Egyptians, Greeks, Hebrews, Persians, Chinese, and early Hindu peoples all mention the use of hair colorings. Early hair dyes were made from plants, metallic compounds, or a mixture of the two. Rock alum, quicklime, and wood ash were used for bleaching hair in Roman times, and herbal preparations included mullein, birch bark, saffron, myrrh, and turmeric. Henna was known in many parts of the world; it produces a reddish dye.

Many different plant extracts were used for hair dye in Europe and Asia before the advent of modern dyes. Indigo, known primarily as a fabric dye, could be combined with henna to make light brown to black shades of hair dye. An extract of the flowers of the chamomile plant was long used to lighten hair, and this is still used in many modern hair preparations. The bark, leaves, or nutshells of many trees were used for hair dyes. Wood from the brazilwood tree yielded brown hair dyes, and another hair dye known in antiquity as fustic was derived from a tree similar to the mulberry. Other dyes were produced from walnut leaves or nut husks, and from the galls, a species of oak trees. Some of these plant-derived dyes were mixed with metals such as copper and iron, to produce more lasting or richer shades.

Synthetic hair colors or dyes

In general, hair dyes include

1.Dyes,

The dye chemicals are usually amino compounds, and show up on hair dye ingredient lists with such names as 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene and m-Aminophenol. Metal oxides, such as titanium dioxide and iron oxide, are often used as pigments as well.

2.Modifiers,

Modifiers stabilize the dye pigments or otherwise act to modify the shade. The modifiers may bring out color tones, such as green or purple, which complement the dye pigment. One commonly used modifier is resorcinol, though there are many others.

3.Antioxidents,

Antioxidants protect the dye from oxidizing with air. Most commonly used is sodium sulfite.

4.Alkalizers,

Alkalizers are added to change the pH of the dye formula, because the dyes work best in a highly alkaline composition. Ammonium hydroxide is a common alkalizer.

5.soaps, .ammonia, wetting agents, fragrance, and a variety of other chemicals used in small amounts that impart special qualities to hair (such as softening the texture) or give a desired action to the dye (such as making it more or less permanent).

6.Developer

The developer is most often based on hydrogen peroxide, with the addition of small amounts of other chemicals depending on the manufacturer.

Temporary Hair Dye

Temporary or semi-permanent haircolors may deposit acidic dyes onto the outside of the hair shaft or may consist of small pigment molecules that can slip inside the hair shaft, using a small amount of peroxide or none at all. In some cases, a collection of several colorant molecules enter the hair to form a larger complex inside the hair shaft. Shampooing will eventually dislodge temporary hair color. These products don't contain ammonia, meaning the hair shaft isn't opened up during processing and the hair's natural color is retained once the product washes out.

Semi-Permanent Hair Dye

This product adds color without changing natural color dramatically. The hair color contains tiny color molecules that enter the hair's cuticle, or outer layer, and go into your hair's cortex. They don't interact with your natural pigments. And since the molecules are small, they eventually exit the hair shaft after several shampoos, leaving the hair as it was before treatment.

Permanent Hair Dye

Permanent Hair Dye molecules enter all the way into the cortex, where they react and expand to a size that cannot be washed out. These dyes acts to lighten the hair's natural pigment to form a new base and then to add a new permanent color.

Structure of Human hair

Hair is made of strong elastic strands of protein called keratin and in chemical terms is composed of oxygen, iron, nitrogen, hydrogen, sulphur, carbon and phosphorus.

Each hair is constructed in three different layers: the cuticle, the cortex and the medulla.
The cuticle is the outermost layer of the hair which provides protection to the inner cortex layer. Improper care and frequent use of harsh chemicals on hair damage the cuticle.

The cortex is the second layer. . The cortex is composed of fibres twisted together like a rope. It is the cortex which gives the hair its colour. The presence of the four natural pigments black, brown, yellow and red are logged in the cortex in varying proportions, and the air spaces in the cortex determine the colour and shade of hair.

Lastly, the medulla is the unimportant innermost layer which is composed of soft keratin..

How hair colors work

The outer layer of the hair shaft,(cuticle) must be opened before permanent color can be deposited into the hair. Once the cuticle is open, the dye reacts with the inner portion of the hair, the cortex, to deposit or remove the color.

Most permanent hair colors use a two-step process (usually occurring simultaneously)

First removes the original color of the hair
Second deposits a new color.

Ammonia is the alkaline chemical that opens the cuticle and allows the hair color to penetrate the cortex of the hair. It also acts as a catalyst when the permanent hair color comes together with the peroxide.

The developer( peroxide) removes pre-existing color. Peroxide breaks chemical bonds in hair, releasing sulfur, which accounts for the characteristic odor of hair color. As the melanin is decolorized, a new permanent color is bonded to the hair cortex. Various types of alcohols and conditioners may also be present in hair color. The conditioners close the cuticle after coloring to seal in and protect the new color.

Health risk and hair colors

Use of hair dye has been linked to allergic reactions, respiratory disorders and even cancer. Harmful ingredients used in hair color and hair dyes ,Hair dyes contain heavy metals that can be harmful. Ingredients in hair dyes are toxic and cause irritation to the eyes, skin and mucous membranes to hypersensitive people.

Para-phenylenediamine and tetrahydro-6-nitroquinoxaline, both have shown to damage genetic material and cause cancer in animals. Allergic reactions from PPD are known to cause facial and neck swelling. Inhalation is likely to bring about coughing, sneezing and shortness of breath, and respiratory problems in extreme cases. Skin contact with PPD may cause rashes and eye contact irritation, redness and pain.
Coal tar, a known carcinogen is used in hair colors and dyes as it creates brighter and more lasting colors than other organic vegetable dyes.
Formaldehyde is a preservative linked to cancer, developmental and reproductive toxicity and more.
DMDM Hydantoin, another preservative is a known immune system toxin (and has been restricted for use in cosmetics in Japan).
Eugenol is a fragrance ingredient that’s associated with cancer, immuno toxicity, neuro toxicity and allergies
Ammonia exposure to high levels of ammonia can cause irritation and allergy, hair loss problems and scalp dermatitis.
Hydrogen peroxide Hydrogen peroxide bleaches your hair and thus damages it. But the extent of the damage will depend on its level of concentration..

Dyes and color index( CI) numbers

2011-12-22T04:04:00.000-08:00

The color index is produced jointly by SDC (Society of Dyers and Colourists) in the UK, and the AATCC (American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists) in the USA. The index is split into two parts: one part gives the commercial names for the individual dyes; the other part of the index gives the color index number, and lists the commercial names for the dyes using that number.

Color index number

Every dye is given a color index number based on its chemical type. The same number is given to the dyes with the same chemical structure. For example, Resolin Red FB and Dispersol Red B2B, both have the color index number “CI Disperse Red 60." The index number is divided into four sections:

1) CI stand for color index and is displayed in every color index number 2) The next section is the dye type, e.g., Disperse, Acid, etc.

3) The third section is the color, according to a defined list of color names, e.g., Red Yellow, Orange

4) The last number is increased every time a new dye is added to the index; in the example above, “CI Disperse Red 60" is the 60th red disperse dye to be added to the index.

As an extensive international compilation of the structure and properties of dyes and pigments, as well as a system of numbering these materials, the Colour Index is a potentially valuable tool for all users of colorants.

CAS numbers for chemicals and chemical compounds

CAS Registry Numbers are an important tool for substance searching. These are unique identifiers assigned by the Chemical Abstracts Service (CAS) to specific substances identified by them in the chemical literature.

Registry Numbers save you from having to think of all the different synonyms, trade names, or possible systematic names when you are doing a compound search by linking them all into a single search term.

For example, there are over 20 synonyms for formaldehyde, e.g., methanal, formalin, methyl aldehyde. The CAS Registry Number for it, 50-00-0, is specific to all those names for the same compound.
"The foam retracts above the legible symphony."

Textile Jobs

2011-12-01T23:30:00.000-08:00

Dyeing and Processing

Textile Yarns and Threads

Textile Yarns and Threads

Single yarns

Ply yarns:

Cord yarns:

Novelty yarns:

Textile Yarn Faults

Calendering Process :- A Technical article By RESIL TEAM

Dyeing without water

AirDye® Technology

Waterless Dyeing of Polyester

Colorfastness to bleaching:Peroxide

Printing Technology

Light-emitting nanofibers shine the way for optoelectronic textiles

New reactive dyes save on salt and water | Dyes & Chemicals News

Stop Cheating and republishing

Nike backs waterless dyeing | Dyes & Chemicals News

Colorfastness to bleaching:Peroxide

NanoKTN event focuses on ‘nano enhanced’ textiles

The Nanotechnology Knowledge Transfer Network (NanoKTN) has announced details of a workshop highlighting new developments applied to textiles using embedded electronics, 'smart' materials and surface coatings technologies.

My Unik Link Directory

Mineral and Clay Based textile bleaching

Machine Embroidery

Problems in Garment Dyeing

Polyester dyeing in HTHP dyeing machines

A New Study on Stripping for Polyester Fabrics

Useful Auxiliaries and Ingredients Used in Textile

Q&A Session for Overview of Dye Classes and Methods of Coloration Webinar.

Problems with oligomer in dyeing polyester yarns and fabrics.

Dyeing with Disperse Dyes

Levelling agents

How to Test pH of Textile material

pH and pH buffers

Testing of common salt

Hair Colors

Dyes and color index( CI) numbers

Textile Jobs

Useful Auxiliaries and Ingredients Used in Textile