GoGreenDogBeds.com Blog

Talented Jack Russell

noreply@blogger.com (doggy blogger) — Sat, 06 Nov 2010 04:26:01 PDT

I would love it if my Jack Russell, Vito, could do all the tricks that this dog can do.
This Jack Russell is trained exclusively through the use of positive reinforcement and the iClick.

A PET'S TEN COMMANDMENTS.........

noreply@blogger.com (doggy blogger) — Sat, 07 Aug 2010 10:44:59 PDT

I received this in an email. I would be glad to give credit to whomever wrote it, but I don't know who that is.

1. My life is likely to last 10-15 years. Any separation from you is likely to be painful.

2. Give me time to understand what you want of me.

3. Place your trust in me. It is crucial for my well-being.

4. Don't be angry with me for long and don't lock me up as punishment. You have your work, your friends, your entertainment, but I have only you.

5. Talk to me. Even if I don't understand your words, I do understand your voice when speaking to me.

6. Be aware that however you treat me, I will never forget it.

7. Before you hit me, before you strike me, remember that I could hurt you, and yet, I choose not to bite you.

8. Before you scold me for being lazy or uncooperative, ask yourself if something might be bothering me. Perhaps I'm not getting the right food, I have been in the sun too long, or my heart might be getting old or weak.

9. Please take care of me when I grow old. You too, will grow old.

10 On the ultimate difficult journey, go with me please. Never say you can't bear to watch. Don't make me face this alone. Everything is easier for me if you are there, because I love you so.

~Take a moment today to thank God for your pets. Enjoy and take good care of them.

Life would be a much duller, less joyful experience without God's critters.

Eco Drop Dog Bed - New!

noreply@blogger.com (doggy blogger) — Sat, 17 Jul 2010 15:03:27 PDT

The Eco Drop is a new dog bed made in the USA by West Paw Design. It's double stuffed to make your dog feel like he/she is sleeping on a cloud. It's eco friendly, made from recycled plastic bottles. The small Eco Drop diverts 51.5 bottles from the landfill, the medium Eco Drop diverts 80.8 bottles from the landfill, and the large Eco Drop diverts 144 bottles from the landfill. That's a lot of bottles!

The Eco Drop dog bed is certified safe. That means it has undergone testing by a third party to ensure that it's free from harmful levels of more than 100 substances, including phthalates, pesticides, heavy metals, and allergy-inducing dyes. It's also machine washable and dryer safe. It comes in three colors: emberglow/bungee, pearl/bungee, and porcelain/bungee.

Dog and Baby Playing

noreply@blogger.com (doggy blogger) — Fri, 16 Jul 2010 13:54:22 PDT

This dog apparently has been well trained to get along with his baby family member. Learn more about how your dog and baby can live safely and happily together and other free dog behavior training tips.

Best Way to Remove a Tick

noreply@blogger.com (doggy blogger) — Thu, 15 Jul 2010 17:09:46 PDT

A School Nurse has written the info below -- good enough to share -- And it really works!

I had a pediatrician tell me what she believes is the best way to remove a tick. This is great, because it works in those places where it's some times difficult to get to with tweezers: between toes, in the middle of a head full of dark hair, etc.

Apply a glob of liquid soap to a cotton ball. Cover the tick with the soap-soaked cotton ball and swab it for a few seconds (15-20), the tick will come out on its own and be stuck to the cotton ball when you lift it away. This technique has worked every time I've used it (and that was frequently), and it's much less traumatic for the patient and easier for me.

Unless someone is allergic to soap, I can't see that this would be damaging in any way. I even had my doctor's wife call me for advice because she had one stuck to her back and she couldn't reach it with tweezers. She used this method and immediately called me back to say, "It worked!"

Get more information on fleas and ticks here.

Toughest Dog Toy in the World? You Decide . . .

noreply@blogger.com (doggy blogger) — Sat, 22 May 2010 05:21:59 PDT

Our dogs, Barret and Vito, enjoy an occasional game of Tug-o-War with the Bumi. Could the Bumi be the toughest dog toy in the world? Watch the video and see what you think. The Bumi is made from something called Zogoflex. This is an extremely tough material that is pliable, buoyant and designed to be recyclable. Virtually no waste is created in the manufacturing process of Zogoflex. Zogoflex material is made in the USA. It is non-toxic and FDA compliant. It's used to create dog toys that are durable and fun for your dog. These toys are guaranteed against doggy damage.

As an important note, Zogoflex and any of its components do not contain any known sources of lead, cadmium, mercury, latex, natural rubber, phthalates, hormones, Bisphenol A or asbestos. That's pretty significant, considering the news not long ago about dog toys on the market that were harmful to dogs.

Zogoflex is also dishwasher safe. If it gets dirty, it can be placed on the top rack of your dishwasher and will come out clean and looking like new.

Zogoflex is guaranteed.

If you have a dog that is able to damage a Zogoflex toy, you can return the damaged toy for a one-time free replacement or a refund, your choice. The damaged toys are inspected by the manufacturer, West Paw Design, for weaknesses and then recycled. Since there are 5 different styles in the Zogoflex product line, that means 5 free replacements if your dog damages one toy from each style. Due to the different shapes and sizes of the Zogoflex toys, some dogs may be able to damage one style of toy but may not be able to damage another style.

CPR For Your Dog?

noreply@blogger.com (doggy blogger) — Mon, 08 Feb 2010 09:59:06 PST

What will you do if your dog stops breathing?

By Andrew Lewis

Health emergencies can be stressful for both you and your dog. Discover how to cope with them, as well as how to provide the nutrition and healthcare your dog needs by reading this authoritative best seller.

Performing pet CPR can be challenging if you do not have the proper training. Check with your local American Red Cross or neighborhood ASPCA or animal shelter for information on pet CPR classes.

If you face an emergency, and you do not have formal training, these guidelines may save your dog's life:

CPR For Dogs Under 30 Pounds

1. Kneel facing the dog's chest
2. Place one hand on top of the dog's ribs behind the elbow
3. Place the other hand underneath the ribs, behind the elbow
4. Press the two hands together, compressing the chest one-half to one inch
5. Combine with rescue breathing, 5 compressions for each breath, and try to keep going at as fast a pace as you can tolerate

CPR For Dogs 30 to 90 Pounds

1. Kneel facing the dog's back
2. Extend your arms straight with one hand resting on top of the other and lock your elbows straight
3. Place your joined hands, palms down, where the dog's left elbow would touch his ribs if he were standing
4. Compress the chest about 1 - 3 inches in, depending on the dog's size
5. Combine the compressions with rescue breathing, 5 compressions for each breath, then recheck the pulse to see if it has returned

CPR For Dogs Over 90 Pounds

Follow the same rules for dogs 30 - 90 lbs., with one exception: Do 10 compressions for each breath, then recheck the pulse

If you want to know more about procedures for CPR and how to make sure that your dog gets the right care in case of an emergency, get your copy of Dog Food SECRETS. It's all about dog nutrition, healthcare and more.

Vito checks out the weather on weather.com.

noreply@blogger.com (doggy blogger) — Fri, 05 Feb 2010 11:14:59 PST

Vito checks the weather report to see if we're really getting 2 feet of snow again. The last one was way over his head. He's wondering where all the global warming is that everybody's talking about.

What To Include In A Dog First Aid Kit

noreply@blogger.com (doggy blogger) — Thu, 04 Feb 2010 15:40:27 PST

by: Andrew Lewis

Want to keep your dog in optimal health? Find out how by owning your copy of this best selling book on dog health and nutrition.

What is Dog First Aid?

First aid involves removing the dog from the source of harm, preventing the worsening of the condition, restoring vital bodily functions, alleviating pain and distress, and helping recovery to begin.

Over-enthusiastic first aid can do more harm than good. Limit yourself to determining the seriousness of the dog's condition, providing essential treatment, and then getting immediate professional help.

It is a good bet to create a pre-assembled pet first aid kit, and have it handy in case of emergency. Basic first-aid equipment should include:

1. Adhesive tape
2. Bacitracin ointment or antiseptic cream
3. Bandages
4. Charcoal suspension -- administered orally to absorb certain drugs or toxins to prevent or reduce their systemic absorption
5. Cotton
6. Diarsanyl -- for stomach soothing and rebalancing
7. Ecotrin (or generic) coated aspirin -- for pain or fever
8. Gauze
9. Hydrogen peroxide
10. Kwik stop powder or cornstarch -- for bleeding nail/faulty pedicure administered by owner
11. Muzzle
12. Pepcid AC -- for upset stomach
13. Petroleum jelly
14. Rectal thermometer
15. Rubbing alcohol
16. Scissors
17. Tweezers

First Aid 101

The following steps should be taken during any emergency situation with your pet:

1. Remove dog from source of harm
2. Prevent worsening of the condition
3. Restore vital bodily functions
4. Alleviate pain & distress
5. Provide essential treatment
6. Get immediate professional help
7. Don't panic, keep your wits about you
8. Never use hydrogen peroxide or ointment on a wound

With some preparation, general check-ups and care, you can ensure that your dog is able to get the best care available if something happens. If you want to know more about how you can care for your dog, in case of an emergency, then get your copy of Dog Food SECRETS.

Dog Licking

noreply@blogger.com (doggy blogger) — Fri, 29 Jan 2010 14:04:00 PST

For us humans, it can be a bit difficult to identify with the doggie habit of licking one another in greeting. We don’t do it, after all, and though our tongues come in handy for things like ice-cream eating and sucking that last dollop of peanut butter off the knife, we certainly wouldn’t welcome a visitor into our home by giving them a long, lingering lick on the cheek.

Dogs use their tongues to explore the world. A dog’s tongue is as important (and useful) to him as our eyes and hands are to us: it’s a multi-purpose utility tool, used to taste things, explore the presence of new people and animals, express submissiveness, and to let you know that he values your companionship and friendship.

Licking is a completely natural behavior for dogs, and most of the time, the experience isn’t something to worry about: the odd lick from a warm, moist tongue on your hand or ankle is, at worst, tolerable. Some dogs just take things too far, though, and this is where problems can set in.

It’s not pleasant to be persecuted in your own home by a far-reaching, agile, mobile, and slobbery tongue: some won’t let you get a moment’s rest, but will pursue you from bedroom to hallway to lounge to kitchen, making sporadic dive-bombings of affection on your toes, ankles, calves – anywhere that flesh is exposed and available.

And for a tall dog, the available terrain is much more varied, and thus, enticing – ever had a long, wet dog’s tongue lathering your bellybutton as you stretch up to those elusive top shelves? When unexpected, the resultant shock is more than a trifle unbalancing!

Plenty of dogs won’t restrict themselves to your skin alone, either, and owners of these dogs will attest to the always-visible consistency of dog saliva on clothing: whether your outfit is black, white, or any of the myriads of shades in between, there’s nothing like a viscous patch of dog slobber on a freshly-laundered hemline to advertise your ownership status (and your dog’s personal level of demonstrativeness) to the world at large. And once it’s dried, it’s there ’til the next laundry run: the physical evidence of a dog’s friendship is like egg white. It’s there, it’s dried on, and it’s not coming off until a combination of suds, hot water, and vigorous effort is applied.

And all this because your dog wants to say “I love you!” But there’s often a bit more to it than just plain affection.

As with all animal behavior, the logic behind dog licking is usually more complex and subtle than you might think, and the same gesture can have multiple meanings dependent on circumstance, your dog’s state of mind, and the other behaviors being exhibited at the same time. So, although we can postulate until the cows come home (or until your dog stops licking – whichever comes first) as to why your dog’s licking you, such generalizations aren’t always 100% accurate: it’s partly up to you to determine the reasoning behind the actions. And, since you know your dog better than anyone else, you’re the ideal candidate for the job.

Read on to learn more about dog licking and ways to stop it if you don't like it . . .

Dog Separation Anxiety

noreply@blogger.com (doggy blogger) — Wed, 27 Jan 2010 12:46:00 PST

Dog separation anxiety is a very common problem. It’s an anxiety disorder and is defined as a state of intense panic brought on by the dog’s isolation/separation from her owner(s). In other words: when you leave for work in the morning, your dog is plunged into a state of nervous anxiety which intensifies extremely quickly.

Dogs are social animals – they need plenty of company and social interaction to keep them happy and content. No dog likes to be left alone for long stretches of time, but some dogs do a lot worse than others: these are the ones most prone to dog separation anxiety.

There are a number of contributing causes to dog separation anxiety:

- Some breeds are genetically predisposed towards anxiety and insecurity, which is something you should consider when deciding which breed you’re going to go for (particularly if you’re going to be absent for long stretches of time).

- A significant proportion of dogs from shelters develop separation anxiety.

- Dogs that were separated from their mothers and siblings too early have been identified as being especially prone to separation anxiety.

- Neglect is the number-one cause of dog separation anxiety.

The symptoms of dog separation anxiety are pretty distinctive: your dog will usually learn to tell when you’re about to leave (she’ll hear keys jingling, will see you putting on your outdoor clothes, etc) and will become anxious. She may follow you from room to room, whining, trembling, and crying. Some dogs even become aggressive, in an attempt to stop their owners from leaving.

When you’ve left, the anxious behavior will rapidly worsen and usually will peak within half an hour. She may bark incessantly, scratch and dig at windows and doors (an attempt to escape from confinement and reunite herself with you), chew inappropriate items, even urinate and defecate inside the house. In extreme cases, she might self-mutilate by licking or chewing her skin until it’s raw, or pulling out fur; or will engage in obsessive-compulsive behaviors, like spinning and tail-chasing.

Upon your return, she’ll be excessively excited, and will leap around you in a frenzy of delight for a protracted period of time (more than the 30 seconds to one minute of a happy, well-balanced dog.) This extended greeting is a source of some misunderstanding: without realizing that such a greeting actually signifies the presence of a psychological disorder, some owners actually encourage their dog to get more and more worked up upon their return (by fueling the dog’s excitement, encouraging her to leap around, paying her protracted attention, and so on.)

Read on for a list of do's and don'ts to minimize your dog's tendency towards separation anxiety . . .

Paper Training Your Dog

noreply@blogger.com (doggy blogger) — Mon, 25 Jan 2010 16:36:00 PST

What is paper training?

Paper training is a form of house training where you use newspapers to teach your dog to go to the bathroom in a specific area.

Is there another option besides paper training?

There are two ways of rapidly house training your dog.

1. Paper training.
2. Crate training.

What's the difference between paper training and crate training?

Paper training involves training your dog to only go on newspapers. Crate training teaches your dog to go to the bathroom only outside.

There are pros and cons to both methods of house training your dog.

Read more here to decide which option of house training is best for you . . .

Another alternative to paper training and crate training is an indoor dog potty, which is made to accommodate a dog of any size and allows your dog to go to the bathroom at any time, unsupervised, which is good if you're gone for long periods of time.

How do you paper train your dog?

1. Pick an area of your house where you want your dog to use the bathroom.

2. Place down a thick layer of newspaper in this area, preferably the corner of a room. Make the area pretty big at first.

3. To make sure your dog eliminates only on the paper, you'll need to confine your dog to that area.

Read on to learn the other steps to paper training your dog . . .

Destructive Chewing

noreply@blogger.com (doggy blogger) — Fri, 22 Jan 2010 12:08:00 PST

Dog chewing behavior seems to be a matter of individual preference. Some dogs like to chew just for the fun of it while others seem to never chew unless they're bored.

There's nothing wrong with chewing, as long as it's directed towards your dog's toys and not your own possessions and household items.

There are three main reasons why dogs chew:

1. It's fun.

2. It's soothing – the doggie equivalent of comfort food.

3. It's a way to burn up nervous energy.

- How to prevent destructive chewing -

There are things you can do to teach your dog not to chew your stuff.

1. Dog-proof your house. Remember that dogs explore their world with their mouths. Put everything out of reach that you don't want your dog to chew. Make sure to consider whether your dog can climb, jump or stand on her back legs to reach a desired object. Some things dogs often go for include garbage, books, eyewear, shoes, clothes, remote controls, cell phones, cameras, DVDs and, of course, food.

2. Keep your dog in a dog-proofed area until you're sure she has learned the rules. If you can prevent her from chewing your stuff in the first place, it will be easier for her to know what is expected of her. Once she gets a "taste" of a forbidden object, she will be more likely to go after it again.

3. Don’t give your dog your old stuff to play with such as an old shoe, towel, sock, etc. Dogs can't tell the difference between new and old stuff.

Read on for more tips on how to prevent destructive chewing . . .

Dog House Training - Common Problems

noreply@blogger.com (doggy blogger) — Wed, 20 Jan 2010 09:56:00 PST

House training is one of the areas of dog ownership that’s most subject to misunderstanding, confusion, and just plain dread! Two of the most common problems encountered with dog house training are:

- Submissive/excited urination

- Scent marking

Common dog house training problem #1: Submissive / excited urination

What is it?

A ‘submissive urinator’ is a dog that urinates on the floor and himself (and sometimes on you and any guests you may have!) in situations of extreme excitement or stress - like when you return home at the end of the day, or when he’s being told off.

Why does it happen?

Puppies are the usual candidates for submissive/excited urination, but it’s not uncommon to see adult dogs with the problem as well: usually, these are highly sensitive and timid dogs, and/or ones from a shelter/with a history of abuse (often these last two go hand-in-hand.)

When does it happen?

Situations when an excited/fearful dog is likely to urinate:
- Greeting time after a prolonged absence
- Play time
- The arrival of guests
- Stressful situations at home, eg arguments
- During a correction (you’re telling him off)
- Sudden loud noises (thunder, fireworks)

What can I do about it?

Fortunately, it’s not difficult to “cure” your dog of his submissive/excited urination.

First of all, you should take him to the vet to make sure there’s no medical reason for the issue (like diabetes or a bladder infection.)

Next, it’s time to take control of the problem:

- Limit his intake of water to help him control his bladder more effectively. Don’t restrict his water intake over a prolonged period of time, but if you know there’s a situation coming which would normally result in urination – for example, you have guests coming over, or are planning on a play session soon – take his water bowl away for a period of time (maybe half an hour to an hour) before the event.

- When greeting your dog, keep it calm and mellow. The more excited he is, the harder it is for him to control his bladder, so don’t encourage him to get worked up: ignore him for the first few moments, or give him a neutral “hello”, a quick pat, and then go about making yourself at home.

- It’s important that you DO NOT punish or harshly correct your dog for this behavior. It’s not something that he can easily control, and he’s certainly not doing it on purpose. When you catch him in the act, you can interrupt him (a firm “No!” followed by praise when he stops should suffice) but don’t punish him. Keep your cool, and try to be sympathetic: he doesn’t mean to do it, after all!

- If he urinates out of fear (submissiveness) when scolding him for another offense, try to take the stress levels down a notch by keeping a firm, authoritative, but not angry tone. Remember, you’re dealing with a sensitive, highly-strung dog: if you get angry or worry him further, the problem will worsen.

Read on for common dog house training problem #2 and what to do about it . . .

Puppy House Training Tips

noreply@blogger.com (doggy blogger) — Mon, 18 Jan 2010 19:39:00 PST

When a new puppy arrives in the house, it’s an exciting time for everyone. In order for the homecoming to proceed as smoothly as possible, it’s a good idea to spend a little bit of time in preparation.

One of the major challenges of dog ownership (particularly for first-time owners) is the issue of house training. If you equip yourself with some rudimentary knowledge and a positive attitude, though, it’s a lot easier than most people make it out to be.

The New Arrival

As soon as you bring the puppy home, take her outside. The excitement of the car journey coupled with the unfamiliar faces, sights, and sounds will have her needing to go anyway – and if you can orchestrate her first toilet break so that it occurs outside, instead of inside, then so much the better. And not just from the perspective of short-term hygiene, either – the more your puppy relieves herself inside, the more likely she is to do it again.

The homecoming is a great opportunity for you to set a precedent for toilet behavior!

- Take her to your designated toilet area, and put her down on the grass.

- Wait while she sniffs around – refrain from petting her or playing with her just yet, because you don’t want her to forge an association between this area and games. She has to learn that this part of the yard is for toilet breaks only.

- When she begins to relieve herself, say the phrase you want her to associate with toilet breaks: “Go pee” or “potty time” or whatever works for you. It’s best if that phrase is short and easily recognizable – and use the same voice inflection each time, too (so that your dog can easily memorize the meaning of the phrase.)

- When she’s done, make a big fuss over her: shower her in praise and affection, and give her a little treat.

When you take her inside the house, the house training regime you’ve decided upon should start immediately.

As far as house training goes, crate training is generally accepted to be the most effective and efficient means of house training a puppy in a short space of time.

Read on to learn about crate training and more about puppy house training . . .

Dog Obedience Tips - Are you the alpha dog?

noreply@blogger.com (doggy blogger) — Sat, 16 Jan 2010 09:38:03 PST

If you are having a problem with dog obedience, maybe you have not yet been established as the alpha dog.

It seems that dogs have a history of living in packs and still have pack behavior instincts.

One dog is always established as the alpha or dominant dog and the other dogs fall in line behind the leader.

If your dog doesn't yet recognize you as the alpha dog, perhaps the dog obedience tips below will change that:

--When getting out of your car or going out of your house, always get out or leave first, ahead of your dog. Only the alpha dog leaves ahead of others. Allowing your dog to leave first gives him the message that he's stronger than you and he's the leader, not you.

--Make him eat after you eat. The alpha dog always eats first. Let him know you are the one who controls the food. When you do feed him, don't allow him to eat until you tell him to.

--Make sure you initiate play with your dog and not the other way around. As the boss, the alpha dog says when it is time to play. If your dog starts badgering you to play with him, don't pay attention to him until he stops. Initiate the play yourself only when he's given up.

--After you've returned home after being away, ignore your dog for a few minutes before greeting him. The alpha dog only pays attention to the rest of the pack when he is ready. This may sound kind of mean and may be hard to do, but he will understand it and it will go a long way to establish your authority as the alpha dog.

--Keep certain areas of your house, your "den," restricted from your dog, such as certain pieces of furniture or even certain rooms, and don't let him have full access to the entire house.

Another way to make your dog obedient is to start some dog obedience training using the tips below:

--If you cannot reinforce a command immediately, don't give it. For example, if you give the "come" command while your dog is out of reach, you should have him on a line that allows you to enforce the command if he chooses to disobey you.

--Use the voice and facial expression that match the situation. Happy voice and happy expression for praising; unhappy voice and stern expression for corrections.

--Only give a command once. If you give a command more than once, it teaches your dog that he doesn't have to pay attention to the first command and can wait until he's ready to obey you.

--Keep training sessions short, 5 to 15 minutes a day, to keep your dog's attention and focus.

Read on for more dog behavior training tips . . .

Does your dog have food aggression?

noreply@blogger.com (doggy blogger) — Thu, 14 Jan 2010 14:52:00 PST

If your dog “guards” his food, he probably has food aggression. Food guarding is instinctive, and although dogs who have general aggression have more of a tendency towards food aggression, sometimes even sweet-tempered and well-behaved dogs can have this behavior.

If a dog has serious food aggression issues, steps should be taken to turn the behavior around as it presents a danger to anyone who may approach the dog during a meal.

Three different degrees of food aggression exist:

Mild – A dog will tense up if someone approaches him while he is eating. He may continue eating but will be clearly uncomfortable.

More severe – A dog will increase his eating speed and stare hard at you and maybe lift his lip a bit.

Pretty severe – A dog may growl, snap at you and bite.

A dog who guards his food is confused. He doesn’t recognize that you are the food giver, which should make you have dominant status over him, and, instead, thinks you are a threat and may take away his food, so he guards it. To overcome food aggression in dogs, you have to remind your dog that you are in charge of the food.

Dogs love food. It’s a big part of their lives. Think about it . . . what does your dog do? Eat, sleep, play . . . I can’t think of anything else dogs do, so eating is probably pretty important to them.

Food aggression can become an issue at any point in a dog’s life, so prevention is the best way to deal with it and, therefore, you should make it a point to approach your dog during mealtime.

If you have a dog with food aggression and decide to just “leave him alone” while he’s eating, it won’t cure the problem, and a situation could arise unexpectedly that would put someone in danger such as a toddler charging towards the dog and grabbing the food bowl.

In the wild, the alpha dog is allowed to eat first, whatever he wants and eat it undisturbed because he’s the top dog. A dog that is allowed to do this may become more food aggressive because he begins to assume more authority than he actually has.

In order to keep your dog from getting too big of an ego, make sure to disturb him a lot while he’s eating. The disturbances should be a positive experience such as adding something tasty to the dish while the dog is eating so a connection will be made that a human approaching the food bowl equals something good. It can be anything small but something your dog would consider more valuable than his usual food.

If your dog already has food aggression, there are 4 steps you can take to overcome this behavior:

1. Put the dog bowl away for the next 7 to 10 days. Over this time, feed your dog by hand, a little at a time. Don’t allow any grabbing or snapping. Make sure he learns he will only get the food from your hand when he takes it gently.

2. After a week has passed, if he’s eating politely from your hand, you can reintroduce the food bowl but it has to be empty. Keep it empty until you go by it and drop a small handful of dog food into it. After that has been eaten, wait at least a full minute before adding another of the same and keep doing that until the meal has been eaten. This causes your dog to want you to be near the food bowl.

Read on for the other two steps and more details about food aggression in dogs . . .

Do you know what's in your dog's food?

noreply@blogger.com (doggy blogger) — Tue, 12 Jan 2010 12:33:00 PST

If you feed your dog commercial dog food, you may want to start reading the ingredients and be aware of what they mean.

Animal By-Products - These may include:

* Dead & euthanized zoo animals

* Road kill

* "4-D livestock" (dead, diseased, disabled and dying)

* Euthanized dogs and cats.

Butylated Hydroxyanisole (BHA)

Butylated Hydroxytoluene (BHT)

Ethoxyquin (an EPA-regulated pesticide)

These are substances that are banned from human food, some of which promote kidney disease, stomach tumors and more.

Read on for more information on how your dog's diet affects his or her health and how feeding your dog natural and holistic dog food can increase life span . . .

Does your dog eat poop?

noreply@blogger.com (doggy blogger) — Mon, 11 Jan 2010 17:46:53 PST

Poop eating is a disgusting subject but it's a pretty common habit. It even has a fancy name - coprophagia or coprophagy.

Several popular theories exist about the cause of this strange habit:

1. A dog eats poop because he's not getting enough nutrition from his diet.

2. The behavior may come from the carnivorous/scavenging heritage of dogs.

3. It may be related to boredom or stress.

4. Internal parasites may be leaching nutrients from the dog's stomach and digestive tract.

5. Dogs who have not been properly house trained may eat their own poop to cover up the crime.

6. Female dogs who are nursing eat their puppies' poop to keep the den area clean.

Even though there are many theories on the subject, no one really knows for sure why dogs eat poop.

Here's a short list of tips to cope with and minimize the poop-eating habit as much as possible:

Clean up the poop in your yard as soon as your dog goes to the bathroom.
Teach your dog the "leave it" command.
Buy a substance from a pet store or the vet to put in your dog's food.

Read on for more tips and much greater detail about poop eating and how to deal with it . . .

Introducing the Family Dog to the New Baby

noreply@blogger.com (doggy blogger) — Sat, 09 Jan 2010 16:33:41 PST

If you're expecting a new baby and you have a dog, you might want to think about preparing your dog for the new member of the family.

Especially if your dog has been with you for a while, he may show signs of jealousy when he has to share your attention with a baby.

There are several steps to take to make sure your dog will act appropriately around the baby when he or she finally arrives.

Here are a few tips for preparing your dog:

Take your dog to the vet for a complete checkup a few months before the baby arrives.
Make sure your dog is free of worms and parasites.
If your dog is not spayed or neutered, this is a good time to have it done.
Invite friends with infants and small children to visit your home to accustom your dog to babies.
Allow your dog to become familiar with the smells of the baby's objects. Apply baby lotion or powder to your hands and allow your dog to smell them.

Here are some tips for the first meeting:

When the baby comes home, allow another person to hold the baby while you greet your dog.
Bring your dog a new toy as a gift to associate the baby with something positive.
If you are not sure about your dog's behavior, leash or restrain him during the introduction. Allow your dog to smell the baby's hands and feet but never force your dog if he is reluctant. Never leave your baby unsupervised with your dog.

Read on for more tips and greater detail about introducing your dog to your new baby . . .

How to De-Skunk Your Dog

noreply@blogger.com (doggy blogger) — Wed, 16 Dec 2009 14:43:00 PST

By Cynthia McBride

Having a dog getting sprayed by a skunk is actually a quite common occurrence, especially if you make your home in a rural area. Both of my dogs have, at one time or another, gotten sprayed. One of my dogs, a Chesapeake Bay Retriever, is extremely intelligent about everything, except skunks! He has been sprayed a total of four times over the years. Once, he even received several quills from a porcupine, but that is another article.

So what do you do when your dog is the victim of a skunk? Forget about bathing him, as that is not strong enough to take care of the problem. I have always heard that tomato juice takes the stench away. I have never tried tomato juice, but it sounds messy!

The simplest solution that I have found is white vinegar! White vinegar works so very well, better than anything else that I know of, and it is inexpensive. Always keep a bottle of white vinegar on hand, so that you always have it available. Simply soak a household sponge in white vinegar and rub it vigorously on the dog's coat. Keep rubbing with a soaked sponge until you cover all the areas of the hair that has been sprayed. You will be amazed at how quickly and easily this inexpensive product does work!

If your dog's collar has been sprayed with the offending skunk odor, take it off the dog and soak it overnight in white vinegar. This may or may not clean the collar, depending on whether it is leather or nylon, and how much of the skunk spray has touched it.

You may not be able to save his collar, but your dog will be odor free! After the skunk odor has been removed, you can then bathe your dog.

Cynthia McBride is a writer/artist living in Texas. Her favorite subjects are animals and children. More information can be found at http://www.squidoo.com/howtodealwithadefiantteenager.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Cynthia_McBride
http://EzineArticles.com/?How-to-De-Skunk-Your-Dog&id=3413217

How Good is a Dog's Sense of Smell?

noreply@blogger.com (doggy blogger) — Mon, 14 Dec 2009 17:39:02 PST

By Andy J Jones

A dog's scenting ability is so much better than ours that it is hard for us to begin to understand what the world is like for our dog. It has been estimated that a dog's sense of smell is up to one million times greater than ours. Scent is usually the dog's dominant sense, whereas humans rely on sight above all else. One way to imagine the difference is to compare watching a hazy black-and-white, badly filmed program on a television with a small screen, compared to seeing the world normally, with perfect vision.

The richness of a dog's world comes via his sense of smell. Not only can he smell things, he also has an extra sense organ, called the Jacobson's organ. As this is lacking in humans it is hard to describe its effect but it is thought it allows dogs to 'taste' smells. The organ is situated on the roof of the dog's mouth at the front.

When a dog finds a particularly interesting scent, sometimes he will open his month while sniffing to allow the extra organ to work. Man has made use of this ability in everyday life. Dogs are trained to follow the scent of people, to detect substances such as drugs, to find delicacies such as truffles and to differentiate between scents.

For a dog, sniffing around is a natural behaviour and a source of great stimulation and pleasure. It could be compared to reading the newspapers, watching the news and listening to the neighbours, all at once!

Andy has been writing articles for several years. Check out his latest website on the Mobicam Baby Monitor which gives people help and advice to find the best deals for a summer infant video monitor

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Andy_J_Jones
http://EzineArticles.com/?How-Good-is-a-Dogs-Sense-of-Smell?&id=2841835

A Quick Guide To Common Designer Dogs

noreply@blogger.com (doggy blogger) — Wed, 02 Dec 2009 15:19:00 PST

If you want a designer dog, then you may be interested to know that there are plenty of combinations that you can choose from. Each of the designer dogs out there are 50% one breed and 50% another with purebred parents. If you can imagine the choices that breeders have with the number of breeds out there, then you should get an idea of just how many possible combinations there are. However, some combinations are more popular than others. A few of the most popular designer dogs are outlined below for you:

Labradoodle – This is arguably the most popular combination – the Labrador and the Poodle, the latter of which should be full sized rather than toy. This dog generally has a lovely temperament and is absolutely gorgeous.

Dorgi – Popularized by Queen Elizabeth II of England, the Dorgi is a cross between a Dachshund and a Corgi.

Cockapoo – This is the name given to designer dogs that are 50% Cocker Spaniel and 50% Poodle. The former can be American or English and the latter should be a toy or miniature Poodle.

Boxador – A cross between a Boxer and a Labrador, this combination of the designer dogs is growing quickly in popularity on account of their lovely and lively personalities.

It is worth bearing in mind that there are also common terrier crosses, such as the Lakeland Terrier and the Patterdale Terrier. However, working dog crosses like this are usually not given a specific name of their own so if you want such a combination, then there is unlikely to be a term for the dog you choose.

National Geographic article (“What’s a Labradoodle – Designer Dog or Just Another Mutt?”) – Examines the debate about designer, or hybrid dogs. The article asks the question many wonder about – are these dogs just glorified mutts?

Designer Dogs: Portraits and Profiles of Popular New Crossbreeds (ILLUSTRATED)

Dogs by Design: How to Find the Right Mixed Breed for You

The Complete Idiot's Guide to Designer Dogs

Dog Toy of the Week - K-9 Pine and Twig

noreply@blogger.com (doggy blogger) — Mon, 30 Nov 2009 14:06:00 PST

Your dog will have a white Christmas with these dog toys. Both have stunning white paisley on gorgeous green which gives the appearance of freshly frosted boughs. They are stuffed with recycled fiberfill.

K-9 Pine and Twig both have double stitching for reinforcement against rough play, and the squeaker proves irresistible for raucous pups. K-9 Pine is for larger dogs and is 9 inches tall. Twig is for small dogs and is 5 inches tall. Both dog toys are machine washable. Made in the USA by West Paw Design.

K-9 Pine and Twig may not be recommended for aggressive chewers, who may prefer guaranteed tough dog toys.

Stopping Dog Aggression - Dealing With Biting

noreply@blogger.com (doggy blogger) — Sat, 28 Nov 2009 16:04:23 PST

Contrary to popular belief, biting is a natural action for a dog. It was an essential tool for survival when they used to run wild prior to domestication. As such, even if your dog nips on a regular basis, it is natural behavior that can be ironed out if you have success in stopping dog aggression. It is possible to again trust a dog that bites, providing that you give him or her the right training.

If you are committed to stopping dog aggression and stopping biting, then you should recognize the fact that biting is not a singular action. Instead, it may incorporate a challenge, barking, growling, lunging and snapping before the bite occurs. It is nipping this behavior in the bud that will help to stop dog biting. As soon as you recognize the behavior, it is time to take action.

Firstly, when stopping dog aggression, you have to deal with the cause of the aggression or anxiety. Crate training is an excellent start because it can provide your dog with a haven to go to when needing comfort. You might also want to look at his or her behavior overall to see if there is a pattern so you can deal with that as a whole when stopping dog aggression.

The important element of stopping biting when stopping dog aggression is to make sure that the behavior as a whole is stopped. You need to prevent it from occurring again, so use positive reinforcement to discourage biting. Do not punish one single element because that could lead to a changed pattern but the same end result, which may be more dangerous. Treating the root of the behavior and the behavior itself is the only way of stopping dog aggression, so make sure that you do just that.