Originally written by forum member BenNelson

This past weekend, my wife, 18-month-old daughter, and I went over to my Dad’s house. One of my brothers happened to be over there at the time too.

My dad wanted to put up a swing in the yard for the little girl, and took a look at a toddler swing at the store. His complaint wasn’t that it was over-priced, but that it was such a fancy, new-fangled thing, with seat-belts and straps in all directions. He thought it would be easier just to make a simple swing.

So, my Dad, brother, and I took a 5-gallon bucket, cut it to the shape of a toddler swing, ran a rope through it, and hung it from a tree.

The little girl swung in it for about an hour and a half. She typically never goes on any of the swings at the park for more than ten minutes!

I didn’t get a chance to document making that swing, since I didn’t have my camera with me. However, last night I made a second bucket swing to hang in my back yard. I took photos to show how I made it and then made a YouTube video from that as well.

Here’s the video for you.

I have a nice long post about all this on my personal blog. Visit over there if you want the long story and “how-to” directions.

I also made a technical drawing showing how to build the bucket swing. I have that posted HERE. I drew it up to fit one 8.5×11″ sheet of paper, so you can print it out and take it out to your garage or workshop for when you make your bucket swing.

Post from: EcoRenovator.org

Five Gallon Bucket Swing

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Last fall, forum user Menaus2 installed a solar hot air panel on one of his rental properties. He didn’t have a lot of width to play with, so he decided to make the solar panel taller to increase the amount of collector area.

The construction is fairly straight forward. The sides are made of 2×8s. Inside the 2×8s is a layer of polyiso rigid foam insulation.

The top and bottom both have a 4″ duct hole cut in them for the air to flow through. The area was later painted black along with everything else.

Next, two layers of aluminum screen were mounted into the collector to absorb the heat and transfer it to the air moving through the panel.

Lastly, the collector is sealed off with a layer of polycarbonate.

To improve the efficiency of the collector, Menaus added a small squirrel cage fan similar to a bathroom ventblower fan. It is controlled by a plug in thermostat that is commonly used in greenhouse type applications.

Over the winter, Menaus said that on a sunny day the solar collector would raise the temperature of the kitchen pretty consistently around 5 degrees fahrenheit.

For more information, see Menasus’ forum thread.

Post from: EcoRenovator.org

Two Story Solar Hot Air Collector

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3. DIY Pop Can Solar Air Heater

We finally got some snow this year and I was able to use the snow blower attachment for the tractor. For a while now its been sitting in the garage with its shiny new chains patiently waiting for the snow to arrive. When it finally came it came down about 5-6″ thick and pretty fluffy. It was pretty ideal testing conditions, and a common amount of accumulation for my area.

As you can see from the video, the blower works great so far. I was a little worried about it only being a single stage, but it handled this snowfall and a few others since without any problems. I can also say it is much faster than my 7hp 27″ John Deere walk behind, and it is a heck of a lot more fun to zip around on.

Of course, there are some issues to deal with. At the end of the snowblowing my batteries had a thin layer of snow on top of them. This isn’t a big deal, but my chargers inside the box on the tractor also had a layer of snow on them. That is a problem that will need to be fixed. So I’ll be making a cover for the box.

Almost ironically, the chargers in the back of the mower which are under the fenders not horribly far from the wheels didn’t have any snow on them or anywhere near them. That is where I had expected to have problems. I was happy to see that was not the case.

Post from: EcoRenovator.org

EcoRider: Snowblower Works Great

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3. EcoRider: Adding Onboard Chargers

In part one, we cut out the concrete floor where we needed to run the drain tile. Then, we removed the concrete and dug down to make a trench for the drain tile to sit in.

The next step was to put down some rock. This allows water to more freely flow around and get to the drain tile quicker. We ended up using some ~1″ riverstone as that was the closest thing we could find at the home improvement store and we didn’t need a ton.

After a layer of stone is down, we laid the drain tile down into the trench. It was cut to length from a 100 foot roll and connected up to the sump.

To keep that area around the drain tile free flowing, we needed to add more rocks on the sides of the tile and on top of it. Again this is so that the water can more easily get to the drain tile to move it away from the house.

With the additional rock on top of the drain tile, it is time to put plastic over the top. This will stop the concrete from seeping down into the rock we just put down.

The last step is to pour the concrete and smooth it all out.

The results from doing this work have been very good so far. The basement humidity is usually around 80% without the dehumidifier running. It has been quite rainy here lately, enough to keep everything outside wet, and the basement humidity is a wonderful non-musty 60%. I’m hoping the dehumidifer will no longer be needed at all and that I can stop it from sucking down 1-2 kWh of electricity every day in summer. The energy savings are only augmeted by the health issues that can arise from having a musty basement that gives a perfect environment for mold and dust mites to live.

Post from: EcoRenovator.org

Adding Drain Tile to a Basement – Part 2

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Even before purchasing my house, I knew that there were water issues with the basement. Being built in the late 1800s, it doesn’t have any drain tile to help remove water from around the house. It did already have a sump and a pump. However, the only water that got to the sump had to drain through the soil (later found to be mostly clay) to it and then it could be pumped out. This issue lead to the problem of a continually very moist basement. It had that unpleasant musty smell if the dehumidifier wasn’t running during summer. In winter things would be fine, but in spring I’d have small puddles in the basement as well as when ever we got a good downpour or a few days of good steady rain. The water did not come through the walls, but rather up from cracks in the floor.

To fix the problem, we needed to add some drain tile under the concrete floor and plumb it to the sump. We started with a concrete saw and made two cuts where the sides of the trough would be for the drain tile to be laid down. You can rent a concrete saw at a tool rental place for a reasonable price.

We made the cuts run to the problem areas of the basement where water would seep through the floor. The proper way to do it is actually to run drain tile around the entire exterior wall. However, the water problem wasn’t that bad so we decided to take this shorter and easier route.

The next step was done with another rented tool, an electric hammer / jack hammer. We had started trying to break up the concrete with a sledge hammer but it just wasn’t working well for us. As you can see the sharper corners broke off which just makes for more work later on. Renting the jack hammer was also cheap and made the job go much quicker.

After getting all the concrete hauled out of the basement, it was time to dig down and create a trench where the drain tile could be laid down. A trenching shovel came in quite handy here (long and narrow), but we still ran into a lot of clay which is a bear to dig through. Not only that, but after its dug up you still have to haul it out of the basement.

For more information see the forum thread about the project.

Post from: EcoRenovator.org

Adding Drain Tile to a Basement – Part 1

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3. ER Project House: Hanging a New Basement Door

Forum member Madmike recently joined the forum with the announcement that he was just finishing up making a solar hot air panel

The panel is 45 inches wide by 90 inches tall and 4 inches deep. It sports 16 rows of pop / soda cans that are 15 cans long for a total of 240 cans. The frame is made of 1x4s and a 1/2" plywood backing. The inside of it is lined with 3/4" foil faced foam. The glazing is a sheet of polycarbonate (lexan).

To punch holes in the cans he used a 1-1/2″ hole saw and a drill press on the bottom of the cans. For the top of the cans he simply took a tin snips and bent the fins at an angle to help create some turbulence which will promote heat transfer to the air.

The panel is still getting tweaked now with a larger and higher flow fan to get the outlet temperature down a bit and increase the efficiency (less heat lost to the environment). To control the fan he is simply using a snap disc thermal switch that turns on at 110F and turns off at 90F. To prevent backflow through the collector at night he is using a dryer damper.

For more details on the project see Madmike’s forum thread.

Post from: EcoRenovator.org

DIY Pop Can Solar Air Heater

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1) post# 16124 – trikkonceptz
2) post# 16077 – the1cyrus
3) post# 15991 – madmike
4) post# 15978 – Phantom
5) post# 16225 – S-F

Congratulations to our first five winners!

First five winners? Yep. We changed our minds and decided to change the rules part way through the giveaway. We hope you don’t mind, but we’re going to add another five winners!

6) post# 16024 – zick
7) post# 16345 – strider3700
8 ) post# 15952 – benpope
9) post# 16339 – AC Hacker
10) post# 16072 – Xringer

So, congratulations to all ten winners!

As I mentioned the first winner gets first pick of the prizes, second winner gets second pick from what is left and so on and so forth. Each winner will be notified via PM on the forum when the previous winner(s) have made their decision and what prizes are left.

If the winner finds that there is nothing s/he can use or give to someone they know, we would like to encourage them to decline their prize. We will select an additional winner in this case. The goal here is to see these items put to good use, not sit around collecting dust.

As a reminder, here are the prizes:

• Bits Limited LCG3E, LCG4E, LCG5E, or LCG6 smart power strip, SPG3E charging station power strip, or Mini Power Minder
• HomePower 1 year digital subscription
• Honeywell T8002C 1000 programmable thermostat
• LUX TX9100E programmable thermostat
• MJSI Hydroright Dual Flush conversion kit
  
• Niagara Earth® Showerhead – 1.25 GPM MODEL #N2912
  
• Waterpik ECO-563 1.5 GPM showerhead, ECO-533 1.5 GPM showerhead

A big thanks to all our donators! The companies above have provided all the prizes for our giveaway and provide us with these and other energy saving products to use in our homes. Be sure to check out the nifty things they offer.

Post from: EcoRenovator.org

EcoRenovator Fall Giveaway Winners!

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Honeywell is a giant company. You’ve probably already heard of them. They make tons of things from aviation and medical equipment to solar panels and security systems. They make so much stuff I’m not even going to begin to go into it all. For us here who are concerned with energy usage, I’ll just refer you all to their page on “Efficiency, Energy & Utilities”.

For the giveaway, Honeywell has donated a programmable thermostat. The model number is T8002C 1000. It is a 5-2 thermostat with one program for the week and a different program for the weekend. It works with single stage heating and single stage cooling (most heating systems). A huge jump up from a manual thermostat.

Post from: EcoRenovator.org

EcoRenovator 2011 Fall Giveaway Donators – Honeywell

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3. EcoRenovator 2011 Fall Giveaway Donators – Waterpik

Waterpik is a company that sells a small assortment of products including showerheads, water flossers, sonic toothbrushes and neti pots. From an energy reduction standpoint we’re going to focus on their showerheads. Waterpik has a line of EcoFlow showerheads that can save you some water, and with showers that is hot water that you’ve spent lot of energy heating up. They offer most of the showerheads with a fix head or in a hand held version. All of the heads they offer have multiple spray settings, and some have as many as seven settings.

For the giveaway, we have Waterpik’s ECO-563 (hand held) and ECO-533 (fixed head) to offer. These showerheads are basically the same except for the hand held vs fixed head difference. They are both 1.5 GPM showerheads and they both offer 5 different spray settings.

Post from: EcoRenovator.org

EcoRenovator 2011 Fall Giveaway Donators – Waterpik

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1. EcoRenovator 2011 Fall Giveaway Donators – Niagara Conservation
2. EcoRenovator 2011 Fall Giveaway Donators – Homepower
3. EcoRenovator 2011 Fall Giveaway Donators – MJSI

LUX is a maker of a few different products. They make mechanical, digital and programmable thermostats. They also have a line of timers, grab bars for showers, and range (cook top) parts. It may seem like an odd assortment of products, but they are probably most widely known for their line of thermostats. And, it is quite the nice line up. In addition the the manual thermostats, they have nine different models of digital thermostats. Those are the ones we’re interested in as the ability to program a heating/cooling schedule can save quite a bit of energy and money. In fact, these thermostats can pay for themselves in just a few months.

For the giveaway, we have a TX9100E. It is a 7 day programmable thermostat which means you can have a different program every day of the week. It works with up to two stage heating systems and single stage cooling systems. It has a filter monitor to remind you to change your furnace filter. I also has a swing setting. Adjusting the swing setting allows you to adjust the allowable temperature range. If you set your heat to 71F, by default most thermostats will kick in once the temperature hits 70F and will turn off around 72F. The swing setting allows you to let the temperature drop to 69 or 68F before the furnace kicks in, and it will stop at 73-74F. Increasing the swing reduces short cycling of the furnace which increases its life and also increases efficiency. This is a great feature for a lot of people out there that have over sized furnaces (unfortunately a common issue).

Post from: EcoRenovator.org

EcoRenovator 2011 Fall Giveaway Donators – LUX

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Niagara Conservation is exactly what it sounds like, a company that puts out products for conserving. Conserving what? Well, Niagara has a real nice selection of things. They have water conservation products like ultra high efficiency toilets, low flow showerheads and faucet aerators. They also have electricity conserving products like smart power strips, CFL lightbulbs, LED nightlights, water heater insulation blankets, and tools like a refrigerator/freezer thermometer to see if your fridge is too warm or too cold. In addition they have weatherization products that help reduce your heating/cooling bill like weather stripping, programmable thermostats, window film kits, and more. Seriously, check out their site for the full gambit.

For the giveaway, Niagara has donated their Earth low flow showerhead. It is rated at 1.25 gpm which may not seem like much, but you likely won’t be able to tell. The showerhead has three spray settings: needle, massage, and a combination of the two. The reviews I’ve seen for this showerhead are quite good.

Post from: EcoRenovator.org

EcoRenovator 2011 Fall Giveaway Donators – Niagara Conservation

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1. EcoRenovator 2011 Fall Giveaway Donators – LUX
2. EcoRenovator 2011 Fall Giveaway Donators – MJSI
3. EcoRenovator 2011 Fall Giveaway Donators – Waterpik

MJSI is a company that makes toilet flushing products. Their main water savings device is a dual flush toilet conversion kit. In addition have fill valves that save water, detect leaks, and clean the tank. They also have flappers that are ensured to give a good seal so as not to waste water via leaking which is a common problem when it comes to leaky toilets.

For the giveaway, we have one of MJSI’s HydroRight dual flush toilet conversion kits. A few of our forum users have these and have good things to say about them. One of our members even wrote a review on the kit and installation that he bought. It is a great product if you want to save on water use.

Post from: EcoRenovator.org

EcoRenovator 2011 Fall Giveaway Donators – MJSI

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3. EcoRenovator 2011 Fall Giveaway Donators – LUX

Bits Limited is the manufacturer of the smart power strips that we’ll be offering in our giveaway this fall. They make a variety of smart power strips with many different options. You can get them in small and large sizes, with child safe features, phone, ethernet and cable surge protection, and brownout protection . They’ll even make you customized power strips depending on your needs. You can their list here.

The LCG3E is your basic smart power strip. It has a control outlet (blue) that switches the switchable outlets (green) on and off depending on if the device on the control outlet is on. So, for instance, you plug your TV into the control outlet and your dvd, stereo and other devices on the switchable outlets. When you power your TV on, the others get power and don’t suck power when they aren’t needed. The power strip does also have three hot outlets that always have power like a normal power strip. The LCG4E adds a telephone / modem / fax line surge protection. The LCG5E adds that plus satellite/cable (coax) surge protection.

The LCG6 is a slightly differently configured strip but the same general concept. It has four always on outlets and five switched outlets. It also has the telephone (also a splitter), three cable (coax) lines, and ethernet surge protectors.

The SPG3E power strip is a little more different. It is called a charging station power strip. What you do with it is plug all your wall warts into it for charging all your electronic gadgets. It monitors the power usage while not charging anything. You then plug in the items you want charged up and you push a button on the side of the strip. This turns the five controlled outlets on. Once the device(s) are charged up, the power strip turns off the five outlets to eliminate the wall warts from using up power. The power strip also has two always on outlets as well.

The last item we have for the giveaway is called the Mini Power Minder. Its a device specifically made for computer systems. The top outlet on the power minder is always on and you plug your computer into it. The bottom outlet would then be used to plug a normal power strip into. When you power up the computer, the lower outlet is switched on and all the other computer peripherals turn on as well. When the computer is shut off it switches the lower outlet off turning off all computer peripherals. It uses a USB cable connected to the computer to tell when it is on or off.

Post from: EcoRenovator.org

EcoRenovator 2011 Fall Giveaway Donators – Bits Limited

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3. EcoRenovator 2011 Fall Giveaway Donators – LUX

Homepower is a magazine that basically covers everything we’re about here at EcoRenovator. They cover the gambit of energy efficiency including topics like solar, wind and hydro electricity generation, solar heating, general energy efficiency, building & design, DIY projects, and even some alternative transportation topics. They even offer some of their articles online for free. Of course the good ones are reserved for subscribers. That is where our giveaway comes in. If the winner so chooses, s/he can get a one year digital subscription to Homepower. This not only gives them one years worth of Homepower article, but also a pretty large history of articles over the past few years. Its quite a large and useful vault of knowledge. I can speak from experience as a subscriber for a few years now.

Post from: EcoRenovator.org

EcoRenovator 2011 Fall Giveaway Donators – Homepower

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1. EcoRenovator 2011 Fall Giveaway Donators – LUX
2. EcoRenovator 2011 Fall Giveaway Donators – Honeywell
3. EcoRenovator 2011 Fall Giveaway Donators – Waterpik

So, lets go over the rules. Its pretty simple, the giveaway will work similar to our last giveaway we had over a year ago. You must register on the forum and make a post (any post) to enter. Each post you make will be an entry into the giveaway. Two weeks from now, on October 3rd, five winners will be randomly selected from the posts made between now and then. Those five winners will be able to select a prize from the list below. Once the first winner decides what s/he wants, the second winner will be notified and will be able to make their choice, and so on with the rest of the winners.

Giveaway Prizes:

• Bits Limited LCG3E, LCG4E, LCG5E, or LCG6 smart power strip, SPG3E charging station power strip, or Mini Power Minder
• HomePower 1 year digital subscription
• Honeywell T8002C 1000 programmable thermostat
• LUX TX9100E programmable thermostat
• MJSI Hydroright Dual Flush conversion kit
  
• Niagara Earth® Showerhead – 1.25 GPM MODEL #N2912
  
• Waterpik ECO-563 1.5 GPM showerhead, ECO-533 1.5 GPM showerhead

Over the next two weeks, we’ll be going over what these prizes are and what they can do for you. We’ll also breifly go over what other products these companies have that might interest you.

I would like to thank the companies listed above.  They have agreed to donate the above items for our giveaway winners!

Post from: EcoRenovator.org

EcoRenovator Fall Giveaway

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3. EcoRenovator 2011 Fall Giveaway Donators – Homepower

One of our forum members, TheyCallMeDave, recently built a PEX batch type solar hot water collector. Its a very simple design that is basically a black wooden box with a window and a coil of PEX tubing inside of it. The system does not have a tank or circulator pump, it runs the mains water right through the pex collector. The water in the tubing heats up during the day and provides hot water for Dave’s afternoon shower and occasional laundry or dishwasher use. The total cost for the entire setup was $350. See his video below for a run through of the system.

Later, we’ll follow up with Dave to see how the solar collector is performing for him. As of right now, he is very happy with the new water heater.

For additional information, see TheyCallMeDave’s forum thread.

Post from: EcoRenovator.org

DIY Simple PEX Batch Solar Hot Water Collector

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In our last article, Xringer had the refrigerant added to the heat pump and was able to power it up and use it for the first time. In this article we’ll look at the finishing touches he had to do to button everything up. Then, we’ll go over the results he has had with the heat pump.

To start out, Xringer had planned on using the heat pump not only for the air conditioning in summer, but also to reduce the use of his oil burning boiler that used to be his primary source of heat in winter. To keep the heat pump clear of snow, he made a simple frame out of PVC pipe. Then, he covered the frame with some corrugated plastic. The canopy was used all of last winter with the heat pump and did a great job of keeping the area around it clear of snow.

The next thing on the to do list was finish insulating and taping up the refrigerant lines. With the connections tested and known to be good, it was time to cover them up with insulation and tape. This will keep things running as efficiently as possible year round.

The last thing Xringer decided to do was to install an efergy energy measuring gauge. This helped him keep track of the power usage of the heat pump. This also helped him figure out how to best use the heat pump at its highest efficiency.

Speaking of energy measuring, Xringer did post some energy usage from the heat pump. He also compares it to the usage of his oil burning boiler. So, head on over to his forum thread to get an idea of his energy usage and results from the heat pump. He has almost a years worth of experience with the heat pump and has been nice enough to keep us updated with all the big and little issues that have crept up. I don’t think I’d be giving anything away, so I’ll sum up with the fact that Xringer has been incredibly happy with the heat pump.

Post from: EcoRenovator.org

DIY Sanyo Air Source Heat Pump Install – Finishing Touches & Results

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1. DIY Sanyo Air Source Heat Pump Install – Installing the Indoor Unit
2. DIY Sanyo Air Source Heat Pump Install – Getting Things Ready
3. DIY Sanyo Air Source Heat Pump Install – Installing the Outdoor Unit

Now that both the indoor and outdoor unit had been installed, the heat pump was ready to be pressure tested. This ensures all the connections are good so that when the refrigerant is added it won’t leak out.

To test out his connections, Xringer decided to pressurise the system with nitrogen. So, first he hooked up the vacuum pump shown above and drew a good vacuum on the system to rid it of any moist air.

After there was a good vacuum pulled, he pressurized the system with the nitrogen to 200 psi. Using some liquid soap, he checked each connection to see if there was visible leakage. Then he left it over night. The next morning he came out to see it was still at 200 psi. He then tested it again at 400 psi doing the same thing and found everything was still good.

With the pressure testing all done, it was time to prepare the unit for the refrigerant. To do this, Xringer hooked up the vacuum pump once again and pulled a vacuum. This time, he hooked up a much more precise micron gauge for measuring vacuum. This is necessary to ensure that all the air and moisture is out of the system before putting refrigerant in.

After getting the system all vacuumed out and holding the vacuum at a steady pressure, Xringer had a HVAC professional come out to fill the system with R410a refrigerant. They followed the manual and put the refrigerant into the system. Once it was pressurized, they once again checked for leaks and found none.

With pretty much everything done, the HVAC guy left and Xringer was able to power up the heat pump for the first time! At the time it was about 46 degrees out and as you can see, the indoor unit was throwing out 120 degree air into the house.

Post from: EcoRenovator.org

DIY Sanyo Air Source Heat Pump Install – Pressure Testing & Adding Refrigerant

Related posts:

1. DIY Sanyo Air Source Heat Pump Install – Installing the Outdoor Unit
2. DIY Sanyo Air Source Heat Pump Install – Getting Things Ready
3. DIY Sanyo Air Source Heat Pump Install – Installing the Indoor Unit

Last time we looked at Xringer’s installation of the indoor unit. Next comes installing the outdoor unit. Its pretty straight forward, so lets dive right in.

The first step was to start connecting the lines outside. Xringer had already run the conduit for the lines, so he just had to connect them up to the line set that goes to the indoor unit.

After that, he tucked the outdoor line set into the conduit and positioned the lines so they were close to where the outdoor unit will sit. This does require bending the copper line which isn’t easy to bend considering the larger tubing is 5/8″. A tubing bender would come in handy to make this easier.

Of course the next step is mounting the outdoor unit. A few screws into the concrete with an aluminum bar through the feet of the unit keeps things held down.

Next up was to connect the refrigerant lines to the outdoor unit. This was quite easy as the lines didn’t need to be shortened. If Xringer had shortened them, he would have had to re-flare the ends of the tubing since the connectors use flared ends.

The last thing to hook up with the outdoor unit was the wiring. A few screw connections takes care of it all.

That is what it takes to physically install the indoor and outdoor units. As we move along in the series, we’ll look at pressure testing the units/connections and adding refrigerant to the system.

For more information on Xringer’s installation, see his forum thread.

Post from: EcoRenovator.org

DIY Sanyo Air Source Heat Pump Install – Installing the Outdoor Unit

Related posts:

1. DIY Sanyo Air Source Heat Pump Install – Installing the Indoor Unit
2. DIY Sanyo Air Source Heat Pump Install – Pressure Testing & Adding Refrigerant
3. DIY Sanyo Air Source Heat Pump Install – Getting Things Ready

Its been a while, but we’re back on the air source heat pump install series. This time we’re going to look at installing the indoor unit part of the system. The indoor unit is the blower that blows out warm or cold air. Its important to position the indoor unit in a good spot that will heat and cool the entire room (or more if thats what you want to use it for). Xringer positioned the unit centrally where it would do the most heating/cooling since he was planning on using this as a primary source of heating and cooling.

Using a stud finder, he laid out where the indoor unit would be mounted. Then, he drilled the hole that is needed to run the refrigeration and drain lines to the outdoor unit. Once the hole is cut, there are some plastic pieces to insert into the hole to help tidy things up and keep water out of the wall.

The next step was installing the mounting plate on the wall. A couple of screws to put in plus a level, and that was done.

Next up was runing power to the unit. After the wiring was done he hung the unit on the wall.

Now it was time to move to the outside and install the ducting for the line set.

With the ducting in place, the line set could be connected to the indoor unit and run to the outside. Xringer did have some issues fitting the bulky foam and hoses through the wall, but it eventually cam through. Once through the wall, he bent them down over a wooden dowel (to avoid kinking) to follow the ducting.

Next time, we’ll go into installing the outdoor unit.

For more information, see Xringer’s forum thread.

Post from: EcoRenovator.org

DIY Sanyo Air Source Heat Pump Install – Installing the Indoor Unit

Related posts:

1. DIY Sanyo Air Source Heat Pump Install – Installing the Outdoor Unit
2. DIY Sanyo Air Source Heat Pump Install – Pressure Testing & Adding Refrigerant
3. DIY Sanyo Air Conditioner / Heat Pump Install