At times you need desserts which please nearly everyone. When professional pastry chefs make dessert for hundreds of people or a baking enthusiast makes dessert for a party of 10, a dessert is needed which appeals to everyone.

Desserts made with mascarpone cream belong in this class. Nearly everyone likes the sophisticated flavor of mascarpone cheese, making it a perfect choice to use for large groups of people. What is especially nice about mascarpone cream is that it harmonizes excellently with an incredible amount of other flavors. Making it possible for a professional pastry chef to make one batch of mascarpone cream and turn it into a variety of desserts. The baking enthusiast at home can make desserts in a glass by filling verrines (glasses) with mascarpone cream and finish some with one type of coulis and fruit and some with a complete different flavor profile.

For this tart I ordinarily use a hazelnut crust, since I especially like the buttery flavor of the nuts paired with the mascarpone cheese. For some applications I like to add liquors or certain essence to the mascarpone cream to highlight other components in the dessert. However, for this tart, I made the cream aux naturel. The ganache however is complimented with a little cassis or black current liqueur.

Getting it all together!

The hazelnut tart dough can be made weeks in advance if frozen. Defrost the dough overnight in a refrigerator and bake as required. The dough makes double of what you need for one tart, divide the dough in half and prepare one tart ring. Roll the remaining dough about 3 credit cards thick and cut in circles. When baked fill with ganache, lemon curd, crystallized chocolate….The mascarpone cream can be made a week in advance as well and kept in the freezer. Fill one mousse ring with a dimension smaller than the tart ring with the mascarpone cream, about one third full. Fill the rest of the cream in small silicone domes for a decorative element on the surface of the tart. Remove both from the freezer once the tart shell is baked and cooled.

For the red effect, spray the tart with red tinted cocoa butter or use a sieve filled with dehydrated raspberry powder.

Hazelnut tart dough

Yield: Hazelnut tart dough for 2- 8 inch (20 cm) tarts

1. In a bowl mix the butter until creamy and smooth. Add the powdered sugar and combine well. Scrape the bowl and add the egg, salt and vanilla extract. Mix until thoroughly combined.
2. Mix in the hazelnut flour. Add all the flour at once and mix until just combined. Do not overmix.
3. Chill the dough until firm. About 30 minutes in the freezer or chill overnight in the refrigerator.
4. Roll the dough on a floured surface about 3 credit cards thick.
5. Line the tart ring. Prick the dough with a fork and place in a 375°F (180°C) oven. After a few minutes check the tart, if bubbles develop prick the dough. Bake until golden brown. About 15 minutes and let cool.

Ganache with cassis liquor

1. In a saucepan bring the heavy cream and invert sugar to a boil.
2. Place the chocolate in a bowl and add the boiled cream in 5 increments. Stir with a spatula. Add the liquor.

Mascarpone cream

1. Place the gelatin leaves in very cold water and set aside.
2. In a cold bowl whisk the whipping cream to very soft ribbon consistency. Absolutely do not whip to a peak! Set aside.
3. Fill a saucepan with a small amount of water and bring to a boil and then turn to a low simmer.  In a bowl whisk together the egg yolks and measured water. Add the sugar and whisk well. Place the bowl over the simmering water and whisk constantly until the yolk mixture reaches at least 165°F (74°C). Remove from heat.
4. Remove the gelatin leaves from the water and squeeze well to remove excess water. Whisk the gelatin into the yolk mixture. Add the mascarpone cheese and vanilla extract and whisk smooth.
5. Add the soft whipped heavy cream and gently fold into the above using a spatula. Fill into an oiled and sugared ring mold immediately, about one third to half full. Use the remaining cream for small silicone domes.

Black currant Danish

If I had to name the five most delicious fruit flavors on earth, black currant would without a doubt, be on my list. It’s hard to imagine a flavor more majestic than black currant or cassis. Its mouth watering sweet –tart flavor with hints of violet and its royal color make it an absolute favorite of mine. Add to this it’s amazingly high content of important antioxidants and vitamins and it’s clear to see that black currants are an all around winner.

I have always liked the combination of black currant and almond in desserts and for a while I have been toying how to successfully incorporate black currant into a breakfast item. After several attempts I have finally achieved what I have envisioned, a black currant flavored almond cream, spiraled up in a flakey buttery Danish.  To accentuate the black currant flavor even more, I made a black currant glaze which turns a noble amethyst purple. I bet you know exactly what I would be serving for breakfast, if Price stayed the night at our house….

For the Danish featured on the photo I have used my standard Croissant recipe with proper resting periods. Pretty soon I will publish a full article on croissant making.

When selecting almond paste make sure it contains enough almonds-fruit. The recipe below is based on almond paste containing 63% almonds. If using a higher sugar containing product, reduce the sugar in the recipe.

Black currant Frangipane

To avoid stubborn almond paste lumps, follow the directions closely.

1. In a mixing bowl fitted with a paddle attachment mix the almond paste and sugar for several minutes.
2. Add a small amount of butter and mix until the mixture becomes smooth. Gradually add the remaining butter waiting for previous added amount to be fully incorporated.
3. Add eggs one at a time waiting for previous added amount o be incorporated. On low speed incorporate the flour.
4. Remove from machine and stir in the black currant puree.

Black currant glaze

1. Using a whisk, whisk the ingredients smooth.

Perfect dark chocolate mousse

When I visualize a great chocolate mousse it holds certain characteristics. For example, a perfect chocolate mousse should be creamy and smooth and not leave a kind of dryness on the roof of your mouth. In fact it should spoon very easily without being too firm and melt very nicely away on our tongue. It also needs to be light in consistency, too much fat can make the mousse heavy and simply too rich. After eating a serving of chocolate mousse we should not feel “Full”, but rather satisfied.

In terms of chocolate flavor strength, it oftentimes depends on what else is being served with the chocolate mousse. If a rather sweet mango coulis or sorbet is served along with the mousse, then it is important to ensure that the mousse is made with a chocolate containing a higher amount of cocoa mass. If you are serving the chocolate mousse in a verrine with a bittersweet chocolate sauce then choosing a less bitter chocolate may be the better choice.

Having said that, when you use for example this recipe for chocolate mousse, but instead of using chocolate containing 65% cocoa mass, you use one of 70% or 75%. (And everything else in the recipe was unchanged) You will end up with more than just a stronger chocolate flavor. In fact, more cocoa mass in chocolate means less sugar which translates into a less moistening from sugar. So the mousse will have a firmer set and be less creamy.

Chocolate mousse can be made many ways. With a Bombe batter, Italian meringue, pasteurized egg whites or a Crème Anglaise.  For certain applications I like to use a specific method. This featured chocolate mousse is one I like when eaten very simply by itself in a verrine or glass. It is made using both a Bombe batter and an Italian meringue and utilizing both makes the mousse particularly good for this use.

Some Pastry Chefs may not agree, but I like to use couverture chocolate when making chocolate mousse. I formulate based on couverture chocolate, I prefer the result. Of paramount importance when making good chocolate mousse is ensuring that the temperatures are right. When melted chocolate is mixed with the other ingredients it needs to be done at correct temperatures. If the melted chocolate is too cold when the other ingredients are incorporated, it will result in a heavy and very undesirable mousse. Chocolate mousse starts to set or begins to crystallize below 85°F (29°C), therefore it is important to ensure that the chocolate is at the right temperature. If not, the ingredients will not homogenize properly and the mousse will be heavy, crystallize or set prematurely before it is deposited in the ring, verrine, silicone mold….

Whipping cream is another very important part of a successful chocolate mousse. Oftentimes we think that a higher fat content cream means a more stable mousse. Perhaps during storage, but during the folding process it translates into damage to the air cells. A cream with a fat percentage of 34-36% is ideal.  Always whipped to a very soft consistency, I do not like to say to say “soft peaks” because often, soft peaks turn into over whipped peaks….. Any cream which is over whipped and used in a mousse turns into a less then desired product.

Dark Chocolate Mousse

1. In a bowl melt the chocolate and butter over Bain Marie or microwave oven to 135°F (57°C), Hold at this temperature in water bath and set aside.
2. Fill a saucepan with a small amount of water and bring to a boil and then turn to a low simmer.  In a bowl whisk together the egg yolks and sugar (a) and whisk well. Place the bowl over the simmering water and whisk constantly until the yolk mixture reaches at least 165°F (74°C).
3. Remove from heat and whip until lukewarm, about 95°F (35°C)
4. Meanwhile make the meringue, place the egg whites in a machine bowl fitted with a whip. Set aside.
5. In a small saucepan combine the granulated sugar and water and bring to a boil. Once boiling wash away any sugar crystals stuck to the side of the pan using a brush dipped in water. Any added amount of water will have no effect on the outcome.
6. Boil without stirring to 244°F (118°C). A few degrees before the syrup reaches it required temperature start whipping the egg whites in medium speed. When the syrup is at its required temperature, pour it immediately along the edge of the bowl avoiding pouring syrup on the whip.
7. Whip until the meringue measures about 86°F (30°C), remove from machine.
8. Recheck the temperature of the melted chocolate and reheat if necessary. Add one fourth of the whipped cream to the chocolate and whisk into a ganache.
9. Immediately add and fold in the bombe batter. Add and fold in to meringue in increments. (re-creaming the meringue right before it is being added is essential)
10. Gently fold in the soft whipped cream and immediately fill into the molds, rings, verrines….

Fondant

There several types of fondant used in a pastry shop.

1. Pastry also known as poured fondant.
2. Confectionery or confiserie fondant. (Can also be used as poured fondant)
3. Rolled fondant.

Pastry and confectionery fondant are nearly identical when observed with the naked eye and for many uses they are interchangeable. The main difference is that confectionary fondant is prepared using cream of tartar and pastry fondant is not. Cream of tartar produces a fondant which is ideal to use when tender interiors of chocolates are desired. The function of cream of tartar is to partially invert the sugar syrup, this will prevent the fondant to become very hard. If too much cream of tartar is used the fondant will be very soft, even runny.

Confectionery fondant may be prepared with glucose or corn syrup but it can successfully be made without. Provided the proper cooking technique is observed and care is made, to use sugar, with has no traces of impurities which will crystallize the syrup. Corn syrup or glucose is used in fondant to prevent unwanted crystallization and aid the inverting process. (Pastry fondant is usually prepared with a higher amount of glucose if compared to confectionery fondant.) However a growing amount of the population refuses to consume products containing corn syrup. Certainly fondant is a crystallized sugar mass but it needs to be crystallized at the right time to obtain a smooth and perfect fondant.

This type of confectionery fondant can be used for many applications. Tint it green with Matcha (green tea powder) and use it for coating a Matcha flavored cream filled éclair. For a traditional éclair mix pure melted cocoa mass with fondant to obtain chocolate fondant. Fondant can also be used to coat the surface of a mille-feuille (Napoleon), petit fours and is extensively used in the world of confectionery and artisan chocolates.

Most pastry chefs and artisan chocolate makers purchase fondant for convenience but it is not very difficult or expensive to make.

Getting it all together!

When well wrapped, fondant can be made weeks in advance. It certainly is best to prepare fondant 24 hours in advance. This will allow the fondant to fully develop or ripen. Ensure you are working with granulated sugar free of any foreign substance and measure the water in a container free of lint. Using electric, especially induction to boil this type of sugar syrup is 100% better than gas. In dimmed light it is very easy to see gas flames going up the sides of the pan. This results in uneven heating, something which is very highly unwanted when making fondant. Cooking the syrup on low heat prevents uneven heating, but in return will create crystallization during the cooking process. Like most syrups, fondant has to be cooked on high heat to prevent sugar crystals from forming in the pan.

It certainly is possible to use a marble slab to pour the syrup on and then to crystallize it, but a food processor makes this super easy.

Confectionery Fondant recipe

Yield: 2 lb 1 oz (1 kg)

Fondant food processor method:

1. In a saucepan combine the sugar and water and stir to a boil. Once the mixture boils wash the sides of the pan with a pastry brush dipped in water to remove any sugar crystals. Any additional water adding in this process has no effect on the final outcome.
2. Boil further without stirring! At 223°F (106°C) add the cream of tartar mixed smooth in 2 Tbsp (1 oz) – (30 ml) water. Add the corn syrup or glucose if using as well. No need to stir the mixture!
3. Boil without stirring to 242°F (116.5°C). Remove from heat and cover with plastic food film. Let cool to 120°F (50°C).
4. Pour and scrape the mixture into a food processor and mix briefly until it turns solid white. Pour in a firm plastic bag and seal well.

Fondant marble slab method:

1. In a saucepan combine the sugar and water and stir to a boil. Once the mixture boils wash the sides of the pan with a pastry brush dipped in water to remove any sugar crystals. Any additional water adding in this process has no effect on the final outcome.
2. Boil further without stirring! At 223°F (106°C) add the cream of tartar mixed smooth in 2 Tbsp (1 oz) – (30 ml) water. Add the corn syrup or glucose if using as well. No need to stir the mixture!
3. Boil without stirring to 242°F (116.5°C). Remove from heat and pour between candy rulers on a marble slab sprinkled with water. Sprinkle the surface with additional water to prevent a skin from developing.  Let cool to 120°F (50°C).

Using a scraper scrape the fondant from the sides into the center and work the fondant until it

This year for Valentine’s Day I decided to make a passion fruit white chocolate mousse. When white chocolate is correctly balanced with passion fruit, it gives white chocolate mousse new integrity, a newfound appreciation. Not only is the sweetness experienced in a standard white chocolate mousse completely defeated by the use of passion fruit, it also enhances the flavor notes of white chocolate.

White chocolate has sometimes a less than desirable reputation but it can be wonderful if used in a right flavor composition. I have made white chocolate fillings such as with coffee and star anise which made strictly dark chocolate aficionados change their mind.

For this dessert I recommend light fruit coulis or sorbet made from red or black currant or raspberries. These fruits not only harmonize very well with passion fruit and white chocolate, but there pleasant tartness and abundance of juice gives a light feel to the dessert as well.

Getting it all together!

If you have heart shaped silicone molds, then naturally use these. With using silicone make certain that you make the passion fruit white chocolate mousse a day ahead and freeze well to properly remove from the mold. I desired spray the hearts with red tinted cocoa butter and serve the mousse with pre-baked hazelnut streusel or red heart shaped gerbet macaroons. http://www.eddyvandammeusa.com/2010/01/gerbet-macaroons-gerbet-macarons/

This mousse works equally great as a dessert in a verrine (Glass) fill the bottom of the verrines with berries and a berry coulis and simply top of with the passion fruit white chocolate mousse, top with décor, streusel and voilà, a good looking and delicious dessert.

Passion fruit white chocolate mousse

Yield: 2 lb (1 kilo) About 10 servings

1. Whip the whipping cream to very soft peaks and set aside at room temperature.
2. Quickly whisk together the egg yolks and sugar in a bowl and add the passion fruit puree. Place the bowl over a Bain Marie (simmering water) and continuously whisk to a minimum of 165°F (75°C). Remove from heat and stir in the chocolate.
3. Place the bowl back over the Bain Marie and stir the mixture until it reaches 110°F (43°C). At this stage all the chocolate will have melted.
4. Remove from heat and add all the soft whipped cream at once. Fold gently and immediately fill in molds or verrines.

I like flavors with a strong character, the kind which hold their own when they are paired with other distinct flavors. One of my favorites, passion fruit falls exactly in this category, not timid but full of life and temperament. Passion fruit works tremendously well with numerous combinations. It perfectly balances desserts which may have components on the sweet side and it perfectly allows for layering a multitude of strong flavors.

Interestingly enough, when used correctly, passion fruit with its prominent aroma and flavor will allow softer flavors to shine thru. Sometimes even enhance, one good example is the combination of passion fruit and apple. In an apple dessert, using the right amount of passion fruit will improve a subtle apple flavor by the presence of passion fruit.

Certainly passion fruit and chocolate work gloriously together and this is what I have done in this tart. A prebaked chocolate tart shell with a layer of flourless chocolate sponge cake and topped with passion fruit crème and berries. It’s a combination which would work perfectly for a Valentine’s dessert. Good flavors which appeal to many taste buds

Getting it all together!

Start by making the chocolate tart dough. Besides using it for tarts you can also use it for homemade chocolate sandwich cookies or chocolate ice cream sandwiches. Oh really you ask? Oh yes I say! The recipe is in the On Baking book on page 390. If you do not have the book, then use the tart dough used for Meyer lemon tarts. If desired you can make the tart dough weeks ahead and simply freeze it. The tart does not necessarily need the flourless sponge cake layer but if you are like me and like multiple layers of textures then include it. Do not to confuse flourless chocolate sponge cake with a dense flourless chocolate cake. Find flourless sponge cake on page 387 in On Baking.

The passion fruit crème is delicious and well worth the search for passion fruit puree. Oftentimes it can be easily found in Latin food stores in the freezer.

Passion fruit cream

Yield: for 2 tarts of 8-9 inch diameter (20-24 cm)

1. In a saucepan bring the heavy cream, passion fruit and sugar (a) to a boil.
2. In a separate bowl whisk the egg yolks until smooth. Add sugar (b) and whisk rapidly until smooth, add cornstarch and whisk smooth. Whisk in the boiling milk.
3. Pour the egg yolk mixture into the boiling cream mixture and whisk rapidly to a boil. Boil for 1 minute and remove from heat. Cover the crème with plastic food film and place in an ice bath to quickly cool the passion fruit cream.

High Altitude Baking

About one hundred million Americans or about a third of the US population lives 3,000 feet above sea level and consequently bake in high altitude. Baking in these atmospheric conditions require adjustments made to recipes.

In high altitude, the air pressure is lower than at sea level. A lower amount of air pressure means that there will be less resistance on the leavening process, basically a cake, muffin or cookie will rise easier at high altitude than at sea level.  Knowing this, baking in high altitude requires adjustments of baking soda and baking powder and other factors.

Question relating to adjusting recipes:

I have heard of multiple ways of adjusting recipes when baking in high altitude, do I need to use all of these adjustments in one single recipe?

Chef Eddy: It may be possible to obtain great results by making only a single adjustment. It is usually best to start by making only one or two adjustments at a time and see how well it worked. In high altitude many microclimates exist and you may not have to adjust as much as someone who lives a quarter mile up the mountain from you. It is a good idea to keep a journal on which adjustments you made and if you were pleased with the outcome.

Question relating to mixing: Many recipes for cakes and cookies require mixing the batter until “light and fluffy”. Is this necessary in high altitude baking?

Chef Eddy: For high altitude baking, mixing until light and fluffy incorporates too many air cells. Air cells expand in the oven and are a contributor to leavening. Too much leavening results in a coarse textured product. In this environment mixing the butter and sugar until well combined is recommended.

Question relating to oven temperatures: In high altitude, do I bake at the same oven temperatures as my recipe indicates?

Chef Eddy: Above 3,500 feet, it is usually best to bake about 25°F higher than at sea level. A higher baking temperature will “set” the product faster and prevent a weak or over leavened structure.

Question relating to leaveners: Do I use the same amount of baking powder and baking soda when baking in high altitude?

Chef Eddy: It is very important to reduce these leaveners. Between 3,000 and 3,500 Feet, reduce both leaveners by 1/8. (1 teaspoon of leaveners is now 7/8 teaspoon). Between 3,500-5,000 feet reduce each teaspoon of leaveners by one 1/4. (Each teaspoon of leaveners is now ¾ teaspoon). Between 5,000-6,000 feet use half of the leaveners (1 teaspoon of leaveners is now ½ teaspoon). 6,500 and above use one fourth of the original amount used (1 teaspoon of leaveners is now ¼ teaspoon)

Question relating to sugar amounts: Do I use the same amount of sugar when I bake in high altitude?

Chef Eddy: Between 3,000 and 5,000 feet above sea level it is usually best to reduce the sugar by 1 Tablespoon per cup, or ½ oz for every 8 oz of sugar used. Above 5,000 feet reduce the sugar by 2 tablespoons per cup or 1 oz per 8 oz. The reduction of sugar will allow the product to properly bake and create a better texture.

Question relating to oven temperatures: Since it is recommended that I bake at a higher temperature in high altitude will my products bake sooner than the recipe indicates?

Chef Eddy: Yes, for every 10 minutes of baking time, reduce the baking time by 2-3 minutes. (If a product is baked at sea level for 20 minutes, in high altitude it may be ready at 15-16 minutes.)

Question relating to liquids: Do I use more milk, cream, orange juice or other liquid in muffins, cakes and cookies?

Chef Eddy: Yes, flour at high altitudes is drier and will absorb more liquid. In high altitude the evaporation rate during the baking process is higher and the extra liquid will help with dryness. At 3,000 feet use an extra 2 Tablespoon for each 8 oz liquid. For each additional 1,000 feet, use one half extra tablespoon of liquid. Baked goods such as pie crust or crackers require only a little extra water added to the recipe.

Question to whipping eggs: If my recipe calls for stiff whipped egg whites or well beaten eggs should I whip as described?

Chef Eddy: It is best to under whip egg products. Air incorporation is important at sea levels but too much air whipped into a batter at high altitude may make the cake rise too high and then collapse.

Question about filling cake or muffin pans: Should I fill my cake pans two thirds full and muffin tins ¾ full as recommended in my recipe?

Chef Eddy: Cakes will do better if the pans are only filled half full. Muffins will be better if filled 2/3 full. This way they will set faster and preventing collapse.

Question about flour: Should I consider using flour with higher protein-gluten content such as bread flour?

Chef Eddy: Gluten helps to set the structure of many baked items. If despite making other adjustments you still have not the right result, consider using ¾ of all purpose and ¼ bread flour in your recipes.

Question about eggs: Should I use the same amount of eggs as the recipe calls for?

Chef Eddy: For every 3 eggs used in a recipe you can add an additional 1 yolk or 1 egg white. The egg product will help with the setting of the cake, muffins or cookies and provide a better texture.

Although Gerbet macaroons are very much in vogue and are wonderful, equally delicious are the   almond macaroons with a crackly surface. Originated and named in France either Macaron craquelés or Macaron De Nancy.

Both types of above mentioned macaroons are made primarily from almonds, sugar and egg whites, however, they do differ a lot in flavor and texture. While the Gerbet macaroon has a perfectly smooth and even surface with a tender chewy texture, almond macaroons have a much firmer crunch with an undeniable chewy texture and a more clearly pronounced almond flavor.

If you’re like me and you like to amuse your taste buds once in a while with something special then flavor these macaroons with star anise. Star anise and almond is a superb and much underused combination. Some people associate anise with licorice because oftentimes these flavors are used in conjunction in confectionary. However, star anise is much more floral and less earthy if compared to licorice. When sandwiched with a silky ganache and served with perfect espresso, these macaroons become even more extraordinary.

Crackly almond macaroons are best made with good quality almond paste. Almond flour does not provide the highly desired crisp surface in these macaroons. When selecting almond paste make certain that you are buying a product which primarily contains almonds and not glucose or corn syrup. Almond paste with high corn syrup levels will make the macaroon batter too runny and the baked macaroons too sweet. The high quality and all natural almond paste I recommend (And these people do not pay me to write this) is made by love’n Bake and is available on multiple web sites.

These macaroons are great the day they are made but will easily last for several days. Keep them at room temperature in an airtight container for best texture and flavor.  Star anise is best ground fresh which can easily be done in a coffee grinder. If you absolutely do not like star anise, then consider adding 2 tablespoons instant coffee to the almond macaroon batter. The ganache filling is optional but it makes these macaroons truly special.

Almond macaroons | Macaron de Nancy

Yield: About 60

1. In a stand up mixer fitted with a paddle attachment mix the almond paste and sugar for 2 minutes on medium speed. Add one egg white and mix two minutes. Add another egg white and mix until the mixture becomes smooth and no lumps remain.
2. Scrape the bowl and mix smooth ensuring no lumps are visible.
3. Add the remaining egg whites, salt and vanilla.
4. Using a piping bag fitted with a medium tip, pipe the batter on parchment lined baking sheets in even small mounds. Dust with powdered sugar.
5. Allow the macaroons sit for at least 60 minutes at room temperature before baking, this will ensure a crisp and crackly crust.
6. Bake in a 350 F (180C) preheated oven until light golden, about 12-14 minutes.
7. When cooled sandwich the macaroons with olive oil ganache.

Ganache with olive oil, filling for macaroons

1. Heat the cream and invert sugar to 185F (85C). Remove from heat and add the chocolate. Using an immersion blender blend smooth.
2. Gradually pour in the olive oil and blend well. Allow to crystallize at room temperature.

Gerbet macaroons make our head tilt a bit, similar like when we look at a newborn baby. Parisian Gerbet macaroons are cute indeed. They instantly flair up a petit four platter and they are very much appreciated by nearly everyone. Some may think that they are brand new on the scene, however, they have been around for a long time, just slightly out of vogue for a while.

In the On Baking book we have a real good recipe for these lovely macaroons using a standard oven. If you are using a convection oven, the recipe below, using an Italian Meringue works exceptionally well. I would not be truthful if I said that these are easy to make. They are not. That’s also why if you walk on the streets of Paris or Brussels, that you will not find these macaroons everywhere.  To obtain a smooth and shine surface, without cracks, it can be tricky.

One of the fantastic things about these is that an endless amount of fillings can be used to sandwich the macaroons together. Flavored mascarpone creams, jams, curds, butter creams, ganache or combinations of the foregoing.  Edible food color can be added to the macaroon batter to match the filling. In the macaroons featured here, for the filling I used a Violette liquor flavored blackberry cream.

Getting it all together!

Having a food processor with a sharp blade is essential when making these macaroons. Purchased almond meal/flour is simply to coarse to give you a good result. Once baked, you can freeze non sandwiched Gerbet macaroons for a week or two. Just ensure that they cannot be damaged by freezer burn.  You will need 2 full size professional baking pans or 4-5 home style baking sheets. Cutting down the recipe in half can be tricky when making the meringue and I do not recommend doing so.

Gerbet Macaroons recipe

Yield: About 75

1. In a food processor mix the almond flour and powdered sugar until very fine. Transfer to a bowl and mix in first listed egg whites (a), vanilla, salt and food color. Cover tightly with plastic and set aside.
2. Place the second listed egg whites (b) in a machine bowl fitted with a whip. Set aside.
3. In a small saucepan combine the granulated sugar and water and bring to a boil. Once boiling wash away any sugar crystals stuck to the side of the pan using a brush dipped in water. Any added amount of water will have no effect on the outcome.
4. Boil without stirring to 244°F (118°C). A few degrees before the syrup reaches it required temperature start whipping the egg whites in medium speed. When the syrup is at its required temperature, pour it immediately along the edge of the bowl avoiding pouring syrup on the whip.
5. Whip until the meringue measures 105°F (40°C), remove from machine.
6. Immediately add a small amount of the meringue to the almond mixture and combine well using a spatula. Gradually add the remaining amount.
7. Fold the mixture long enough to obtain a sheen and the folds of the batter disappears within 30 seconds. (Perfect Gerbet macaroons are all about the folding!!!!)
8. Pipe on parchment or silicone lined baking sheets and bake for approximately 11-12 minutes in a 320°F (160°C) convection oven. If using a deck oven double pan the macaroons. Do not bake the macaroons until golden, just until set.
9. Once cooled, fill with filling of choice.

Chocolate mousse is without a doubt one of the great classics of the pastry world and it certainly is one of my favorites.  A perfect chocolate mousse should be creamy, light and airy with a rich chocolate flavor. However, if the chocolate mousse is paired with other flavors it is important not to use chocolate with a very high cocoa content, as this can cause the mouse to completely overshadow the other components.

For a caramel chocolate mousse it is essential to start with a well made caramel. A good caramel flavor is obtained by caramelizing sugar to a rich honey color, basically, right before the caramel releases smoke. If the caramel is too light in color it will result in an overly sweet final result without the desired caramel flavor.

Caramel chocolate mousse pairs well with coffee, star anise, cinnamon, cherries, limes and certain teas. Make certain to serve chocolate mousse not too cold, the best flavor and texture is achieved when it is removed from the refrigerator 30-60 minutes before being served. (Depending on size)

Getting it all together!

A well made chocolate mousse is one of the few desserts which can be delicious without any other elements present and can work perfectly served in a glass or other contemporary container. The entremet or torte shown is made in a plastic mold but certainly anything will work. Once the mousse is prepared the setting process starts, therefore it needs to be immediately filled into the selected vessel. Otherwise delicate air cells will be damaged and the mousse will be heavy. The cocoa content of chocolate will have an effect on the final favor and the firmness of the mousse.

Well wrapped, chocolate mousse can easily be kept in a freezer for up to a week. I am especially fond of pairing a caramel chocolate mousse with Italian amarena cherries. The sweet tartness and complex flavor of the wild amarena cherries make this dessert extra special. Many fresh fruits will deteriorate and release juices when defrosted, therefore it is usually better not to introduce fresh fruits if you are planning to freeze the mousse.  On the bottom of the entremet I have placed a disk of prebaked hazelnut tart dough. This recipe can be found in the On Baking book or on this site under Meyer lemon tarts.

Caramel Chocolate Mousse

Yield: Mousse for 10 servings

1. Whip the whipping cream (a) to a very soft consistency as shown in the picture. Do not whip to medium peaks. Set aside at room temperature.
2. In a saucepan stir the sugar using a heat resistant or rubber spatula to a deep golden caramel. Pour into the caramel the hot heavy cream (b) and stir the mixture over medium heat until no caramel lumps remain. Remove from heat. Stir in 3 TBSP (1.5 oz) (45 gram) unsalted butter.
3. Add the chocolate and whisk to a smooth ganache. Let cool to 108°F (42°C).
4. Gently fold in the soft whipped cream (a). Immediately place the mousse into the desired mold or glasses.
5. Place in a refrigerator or freeze. To be unmolded the mousse will have to be frozen overnight. Once unmolded spray with a mixture of 50% chocolate and 50% cocoa butter as shown in On Baking.
6. Decorate as desired.