When we think about Valentine’s Day the heart is what primarily comes to mind. For many years the only device we had to create a heart, was a heart shape cutter. Things have changed for the better and now we have access to 3 dimensional heart shaped Flexipan. Pastry Chefs the world over, like to use these since they facilitate beautiful desserts, in quick and hygienic ways with unsurpassed results.

The possibilities are endless, whether you want to mould a lemon-passion fruit cream as shown on my site here, a Bavarian, a mousse etc.  Working Pâtissiers already know, but for the enthusiastic pastry students out there, it is important to remember that when making mousses and creams for Flexipan to keep the following in mind. If your recipe has temperature guidelines follow these strictly and make certain that the whipping cream is only whipped to a very soft consistency.  Of course these rules apply anytime, however to ensure a beautiful molded mousse or cream using Flexipan, make certain the recipe was correctly performed and this way you truly will obtain unrivaled products.  The chocolate mousse recipe below works tremendously well in Flexipan and I highly recommend you give it a try. The texture and flavor of the chocolate mousse will not disappoint.  If desired serve the chocolate mousse with raspberry sorbet and caramel tuile as featured in the picture.

Chocolate mousse

1.Whip the whipping cream to very soft consistency. (Thick but slightly pourable)

2.Bring the milk to a boil and remove from heat. Allow to cool for 2 minutes. Remove gelatin from water and press to remove excess water. Whisk into the hot milk.

3.Pour half of the milk-gelatin mixture into the chocolate and whisk well. Gradually add the remaining milk and whisk until smooth.

4.Allow the mixture to cool down (or bring to) to (110°F) 43°C and add all the whipped cream at once. Using a rubber spatula fold gently until combined.

5.Pour into the Flexipan and place in freezer overnight.

6.Unmold the next day and coat with cocoa gelée or desired glaze.

7.Decorate as desired.

We all know that many plated desserts can go from ordinary to extraordinary by simply adding an eye catching tuile. It is the reason why so many of us use them in our work on a daily basis. Made round, square, into long strips, curved, left flat, rolled, the possibilities are nearly endless. Besides being placed on a plated dessert they also fit perfectly on a petit four platter and can be delicious when dipped in chocolate.

Tuiles suffer quickly when exposed to humidity and are therefore best made daily or packaged air tight with desiccant.  Personally, for even results I prefer to make tuiles using Flexipan since it allows for efficient work with excellent results.  Certainly Silpat can be used as well.

The recipe below is composed of lime and grapefruit juice but these juices can be replaced with passion fruit. Some tuiles can be a greasy upon removal from the oven but these are well balanced and do not require pectin or glucose. For the students out there, tuiles need to be scaled exact to ensure a lacy texture.

Tuiles Recipe

1. Cream the butter and add powdered sugar and salt. Cream until light.
2. Gradually add the fruit juices.
3. Blend in the flour. Allow to mature for 1 hour before baking or overnight in a refrigerator.
4. Pipe small amount s of the batter into Flexipan or onto Silpat. If desired place a slice of candied kumquat onto the batter and bake in a 350°F (180°C) oven until light golden.
5. For shaped tuiles remove from the pan and shape into desired forms. For flat tuiles allow to cool in pan.
6. Once cooled store airtight with a desiccant.

Kumquats are some of the quickest and least complicated fruits to candy. From start to finish, semi candied kumquats can be achieved within 40 minutes.  A drastic time difference compared to the preparation of candied orange peels which are blanched several times to remove bitterness from the peel and are then followed by an extensive candying process.

Semi candied kumquats are well liked by our customers, therefore if you have desserts which you want to enhance with an orange-citrus component, they can be an excellent choice. Think about adding semi candied kumquats to gelato, layered in entremets, yogurt desserts, in cheesecake, in ganache etc.

Semi candied Kumquats | Semi Candied Cumquats

1. In a non reactive saucepan bring to a boil the sugar, water and glucose.
2. Slice the kumquats crosswise in 2 mm thick slices.
3. Add the sliced kumquats to the boiling syrup and turn to simmer.
4. Simmer on low for approximately 30 minutes or until tender.
5. Allow to cool and store in a refrigerator.

Pâte à Choux topped with streusel or crumble has some real advantages.  One, a smooth rounded surface on profiteroles or éclairs is easily obtained. Two, the added flavor and texture of streusel is a welcoming factor to the rather bland flavor of Pâte à Choux. Three, profiteroles or éclairs expand much larger and more uniformly compared to choux paste which is not topped with streusel. Four, the interior of the choux paste products is visibly more hollow.

For us in the baking industry having éclairs or profiteroles crack in the oven is disappointing and therefore I bake choux paste at rather low oven temperatures. Using flour with fairly high protein content allows for extra eggs in the batter, which in turn permits lower oven temperatures but with good expansion of the products.  Adding a small amount of steam in the oven as soon as the pate a choux is loaded in the oven also helps very well with the prevention of cracks.

Photo below: Profiteroles piped the same size, baked on same tray. The one topped with streusel expands visibly larger.

Pâte à Choux

1. In a saucepan bring to boil the water, milk, sugar, salt and butter.
2. Remove from heat and immediately stir in sifted flour. Stir well until combined. Return to heat and stir until the dough releases from the sides and bottom, about 2 minutes.
3. Place the mixture into a bowl fitted with the paddle attachment, on medium speed gradually add the eggs, one at a time, scraping the bowl often. Once 14 oz (420 g) of the eggs are added examine the batter, it should be smooth and have a light sheen. It should be firm enough to hold its shape when piped. Add the remaining egg if needed.
4. Pipe the batter using a plain tip on parchment lined sheet pans.
5. Cut the streusel in circles 10% smaller than the piped pate a choux and place on the surface.
6. Place in a (lightly steam injected) oven at 350°F (180°C) with steam vent closed. When the products are well expanded, open the steam vent (or part oven door) to let the steam escape. Bake until the products are crisp when pressed on the sides. About 27-33 minutes for profiteroles.

Streusel (Crumble) topping for Choux paste

1. Cut the butter in small cubes and combine with all the ingredients in a machine bowl fitted with a paddle attachment.
2. Mix on medium speed until a crumbly mixture is obtained. Remove from machine.
3. Between parchment paper or plastic roll the streusel 2 credit cards thick. Place in freezer until hard.
4. Cut the streusel in pieces 10% smaller than the piped pate a choux and place on the piped choux paste pieces.
5. Place in oven and bake.

After talking to countless Pastry chefs and Chocolatiers who are in search of fillings for chocolates with an extended shelf life, I thought it was time to highlight such filling which may be of use to you.  This particular filling contains nougatine which adds a layer of complexity, but the good news is that the nougatine is chopped and therefore rolling it to a thickness of 2 stacked bank cards is not a total necessity.  Although on the picture this particular filling is piped into a chocolate bar mold, any shallow type of chocolate mold should work.  The filling tilts on the sweet side and therefore I do recommend to use shallow chocolate mold as the flavor balance between the chocolate and the filling will then be optimal. For the molding process I recommend a semi sweet chocolate couverture with a cocoa mass content of 52-58% maximum. Milk chocolate mixed with dark chocolate can also work well and be equally delicious. Using ¾ milk chocolate couverture combined with ¼ dark chocolate couverture will provide good balance. Using bitter chocolate for the molding process will make it hard to properly experience the hazelnut flavor which we all know is a rather expensive ingredient not to be noticed.

Hazelnut & Orange Chocolate Bar

1. Combine the hazelnut paste with nougatine and candied orange peel and set aside.
2. Temper chocolate and proceed as customary.

Gianduja is a highly desired filling for chocolates as it is both delicious and luxurious. Many recipes and methods to prepare Gianduja exist but all contain similar ingredients. These mainly include hazelnuts, sugar and chocolate and at times with lesser amounts, milk powder and cocoa butter. Some of us in the pastry lab also make Gianduja using part hazelnuts and part almonds. To make a silky smooth Gianduja a roller refiner machine is necessary; however a good quality food processor can provide good results as well. The recipe for Gianduja below is made using purchased hazelnut paste, for a recipe using raw hazelnuts see my recipe here on my site.

Chocolates which are made using pure Gianduja (Thus no fillings which contain Gianduja but also include butter, cream, fruit purees etc) can be kept for a much longer time if compared to standard ganache. The extended shelf life is attributed to a very low Aw value of chocolate and hazelnut paste, the main components. Ganache an emulsion of chocolate and cream (which contains a large amount of water) has a high Aw value. Remember, generally speaking the higher the Aw value of chocolate fillings the shorter its shelf life will be. Fillings with high Aw values are perfect breeding grounds for micro organisms. Certainly there is more than the Aw value which determine shelf life, but for chocolates made in high sanitary conditions and using the correct working methods the Aw value is a very important one. In upcoming work I will go deeper into this subject.

When using Gianduja in chocolates it is important to remember that the delicate flavor of hazelnuts can easily be lost. Using chocolate with a cocoa mass content of 60% or higher will make it harder for your consumers to fully appreciate the wonderful Gianduja flavor.

Gianduja Chocolates with Dried Cranberries

1. This Gianduja can be made and poured between candy rulers or can be left to crystallize and then rolled between thick plastic to desired thickness. The chocolates featured here were made using a frame which allows the creation of an uneven surface.
2. Using candy rulers create a frame of approximately 12 x 12 inch (30 x 30 cm) onto a silpat. Set aside.
3. For fast setting of the Gianduja temper the chocolate and mix with room temperature hazelnut paste followed by cranberries.
4. Pour into the frame and even out using an offset spatula. If not using a frame allow the Gianduja to set in the bowl, stirring every few minutes for even cooling. Once crystallized remove from bowl and roll to desired thickness between plastic sheets.
5. After several hours or overnight (do not refrigerate) cut into desired size.
6. Temper dark chocolate couverture and enrobe the Gianduja centers. “Mark” the surface using your dipping fork.

There is something to be said to have chocolates in your repertoire which hold a long shelf life. It can make your work schedule a lot easier since you can make these types of chocolates well in advance of busy holidays.   One type of filling which will certainly keep fresh for at least 6 months is a Confiserie fondant type. Often used in economy chocolate selections since it is an inexpensive type of filling with the additional benefit of long conservation.  They are frequently flavored with liquors and or flavoring compounds to mask its sweetness and of course to give flavor.  Using chocolate with higher cocoa mass content is another way to balance the high sugariness.  Fondant type of fillings tend to work best in rather low depth chocolate molds where it is easier to achieve a good balance between the sweet filling and bittersweet chocolate.

Confiserie fondant mixed with peppermint oil is a classic and well liked in many parts of our world.  The cooling sensation of peppermint combined with good bittersweet chocolate is a delicious pleasure indeed.  Few of us make our own confiserie fondant but for our pastry students who cannot readily purchase this fondant you can find the recipe on my site here.

Mint Chocolates

1. Line chocolate molds with tempered chocolate and place upside down in a refrigerator until the chocolate starts to contract.
2. Warm fondant in a microwave oven to 85F (cccccccccc) add peppermint oil or extract to taste. Add a very small amount of water or liquor to bring to a thick but pipeable consistency.  Keep well covered to prevent a skin from forming.
3. Fill the molds 2 mm from edge.  If desired sprinkle with cocoa nibs. Allow the fondant to “crust”.
4. Cover with tempered chocolate and place in the refrigerator.
5. Unmold.

Although ginger is used in the savory kitchen year round, it seems that most of us in the pastry kitchen (especially in the West) use it mainly during the fall and winter season.  One of the things that I like about ginger is that it can be very effective in creating an aura of excellence to desserts. Another reason is that ginger does wonders for the digestion system, which makes it a natural good choice for desserts. Ginger pairs very well with citrus and candied kumquat or candied orange peel are very good choices to incorporate into this ice cream dessert.

Once the ice cream is churned spread it into pre-chilled molds or rectangular mousse frames and layer with candied citrus and broken nougatine pieces. Allow to freeze 12 hours before unmolding and decorating.

Ginger Ice cream

1. Bring the milk and cream to a boil. Remove from heat and add the ginger. Cover and infuse for 45 minutes.
2. Return to heat source and heat to approximately 200°F (93°C). In a separate bowl whisk the yolks, sugar, honey and salt until thick and pale. Temper with 1/8 of the milk mixture, whisk well and add to the heated above. Using a rubber spatula stir constantly until a thermometer reaches 183°F (83°C).
3. Remove from heat and pour in a chinois.
4. Cover and place in an ice bath. When properly chilled place in a refrigerator overnight before churning.

All of us in the Patisserie world know very well that during the busy Holiday season, having a quick to prepare winter dessert in your collection never hurts. This one does not disappoint and is very well liked. The combination of peppermint and cranberry is contemporary and the flavors work in perfect harmony.

In this dessert and some others, I prefer to use mint extract or mint essential oil over steeping fresh mint leaves. A good extract provides clean and fresh notes which are hard to achieve when using fresh leaves. Most often, brewed mint leaves exude grassy herbal notes which are not desired.

Cranberry Coulis

1. Bring cranberries, sugar and water to a boil in a non reactive saucepan. Simmer for 8-10 minutes.
2. Remove from heat and using an immersion blender puree until smooth.
3. Run through a chinois. Once cooled add liquor or a small amount of water to bring to desired consistency.
4. Pour a layer in glasses of choice and place in a refrigerator.

Panna Cotta

*peppermint extracts vary in flavor strength.  If using pure peppermint oil only a few drops will be needed.

1. Bloom (place gelatin leaves in cold water) and set aside.
2. Bring the milk and sugar to a boil and remove from heat. Add the heavy cream. Cover wiith plastic food wrap. Let cool until 180°F (81°C).
3. Press the excess water from gelatin leaves and add to above. Stir until all gelatin is dissolved.
4. Allow to cool until the panna cotta starts to thicken. Pour gently over the cranberry coulis.
5. Place in a refrigerator and allow to set. Decorate with streusel, cranberry coulis and chocolate décor.

During this busy season who has time to read an article? Nobody, so let’s just go straight to the recipe! Cheers!

Pumpkin Mascarpone Domes with Star Anise Maple Sauce

1. Prepare pumpkin cake and set aside.
2. Prepare mascarpone cream and fill in silicone molds alternating with the cake.
3. Serve with star anise infused maple sauce. Leaves: Nougatine and Nougat Montelimar

Pumpkin Cake (Genoise method)

½ sheet pan (30 x 40 cm – 12 x 16 inches)

1. Whip the eggs and sugar in a mixer fitted with a paddle attachment to a thick ribbon consistency. Add vanilla if desired. Sift the flour and all the dry ingredients together and set aside.
2. Line a half sheet pan with parchment paper and set aside.
3. Remove whipped eggs from machine and fold in the pumpkin puree. Gently fold in the dry ingredients.
4. Spread on the sheet pan and place in a 375°F (190°C) oven until the cake bounces back when lightly pressed, about 12 minutes.