Edward Lear's Diaries

Friday, 16 May 1862

Marco Graziosi — Wed, 16 May 2012 08:00:32 +0000

X5
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Medicine ― & rose at 6.

We do not advance.

All the morning went to & fro between Charlton’s ― Woodleys ― & Taylors ― the annoyance of the pictures being still there worrying me unendurably.

Endeavored to make a drawing ― for Charlton, but failed.

Dined at 4.

At 6 ― set out to draw at Ἀνάλειψις, but was constantly waylaid by ― Grasset ― De Veres ― Fosters ― Herberts &c. &c.

So I did nothing.

At 7.30 ― went to Mrs. Woolffs, where was E. Curcumelly. ―

Bed by 10.40.

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

Thursday, 15 May 1862

Marco Graziosi — Tue, 15 May 2012 08:00:03 +0000

Finer ― but scirocco.

Rose at 4.30. At 5 ― drew the Citadel ˇ[from Καστράδες] & returned at 8 to breakfast. Accounts with G. ― & at 9 went out ― calls on Charlton ― out, Luard, ― who has lent his Yacht ― wh. I had minded to take: walked with him to the Citadel, & saw the yot where the De Vere’s are. To Taylor’s, where I found to my utter disgust that the pictures are all here still, no L.pool steamer having called ― & the only one likely to call, goes to Trieste, Smyrna, Alex.dria & where else not? This, (the Atlas,) I have ordered the things to be sent by: but they cannot be England before July.

Pleasant!

Called on Mrs. Bridge ― out: Mrs. Woolff ― & saw Ευφροσυνη Κυσκυμέλλι [sic], ― & the children. At Dr. Woolff ἀπέθανε.[1] Returning saw Clark, Herbert, & Majr. Cocks, ― T. Cock’s brother. ― Called on Mrs. Boyd: ― out, on Boyd: ― & asked him for a letter to [][2] Γεννάδες[3] ― though I am now so unsettled & angry I hardly know what to do. ― For in London, previous to the arrival of the Pictures, what is to be done? ――― Home & lunch & wrath. Saw the 2 Foster’s also: setting off to Πανταλεώνε[.]

At 2 P.M. the wind is frightful ― scirocco haze. 2 to 3 wrote out last 6 days journal.

At 4 ― went out to draw ― the view by the Casino Gate ― but no mountains were visible ― along of thick scirocco fog. ― so I walked up to Ἀνάλειψις & drew till 6.30 ― Dr. Roberts sitting by latterly, & walking back with me.

Dined at 7.30: ― Foster came in ˇ[at 8], & sat till 9.30. ―

[1] Died (NB).

[2] Lear has blotted what appears to be a wrong spelling of the following word.

[3] Either a family or a place name.

Wednesday, 14 May 1862

Marco Graziosi — Mon, 14 May 2012 08:00:53 +0000

At 4.30. got coffee, & at 5.30 set off ― man & horse.

Of course, the very best view of Clomò is just beyond the village: it was however too windy to draw. [In a rage] to Messonghi, & later passed [Capodistria’s] house ― (where I had once landed, & whence we walked back ―). ― Tired, ― sleepless ― & cross: scirocco no end. Was angry at G.’s account of the peasants in that murder affair, & spoke harshly: He also was angry ― having a bad eye & being tired. So, I set off alone, & walked straight into Corfu ― reaching home at 10.45.

Got [4][1] letters. F.L. ― Mrs. G. Clive ― no good account of G.C. ― T. Cooper ― & Dickenson.

Washed & read. Dined at 6. Bed at 9.

[1] Blotted.

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

Tuesday, 13 May 1862

Marco Graziosi — Sun, 13 May 2012 08:00:33 +0000

50 years old. Sky rather overcast. Rose at 4.15 ― coffee & a dollar to old Sotin; ― & then good-bye to good Dr. Sansoni. ― a kindly man leading a hard life of work for the benefit of others. The way in which all the family adapt themselves to the unpleasantness of [][1] is highly praiseworthy. What can I send them? A Lamp? or Toys for their little boy, who I fear will die, as have done 3 before him.

I have even remembered my old days in the Abruzzi while here. ― Morning fine, & we went on to Περιβόλι, where I drew, ― tho’ it has few charms. Then, through uncultivated wilds of olive & Prinari[2] &c. &c. ― below Marathia, wh. G. says was pulled down in 18 or 19 ― when all the people died of the plague. (Pigs are not allowed by the Governo to this day ― on account of their disinterring propensities, ― throughout Lefchimo.) Next was Ἀργιράδες ― rather a putty village; I decided on coming back to it, [][3] on seeing the rough long road however to Clomo, I gave that idea up wholly. Clomo in itself is ugly ― but the views thence are wonderful. The wind however rose so that nothing could be done out of doors. Srgt. Launasio’s house ― when opened by a highly morose & unclean man, is good, ― but full of fleas: ― howbeit we must endure it for a night. No sheets ― & a vast rattling of windows. Swallows twitter all around. (Little girl near Ἀργιράδες laying up great red poppies in a wreath ― 1^st of May ― quò George ―: dunque,[4] is the May day festivity a Greek one?) ― At 3 ― the day is wholly gloomy & disgusting ― so I drew from the window of the forlorn nasty country house (moth eaten chairs &c.) G. & I went up to the top church ― Ταξιάρχας,[5] & I drew a little here & there, & then returned ordering a horse for tomorrow. No wine ― no nothing.

What a night! A hurricane of wind, & a world of fleas. ― I walked up & down from 7 ― having no appetite ― & unable to lie down by incessant torment by vermin ― all night long.

[1] A word ending in λίμνη, i.e. lake; or perhaps two words.

[2] Πρινάρι or πουρνάρι, the kermes oak.

[3] Lear blotted a word, probably “but.”.

[4] Well, then.

[5] The church of the Taxiarches Archangels Michael and Gabriel, see Wikipedia.

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

Monday, 12 May 1862

Marco Graziosi — Sat, 12 May 2012 08:00:49 +0000

My 50^th birthday. Rose at 4.20: ― off by 5.15.

Long winding paths through olive groves: then dips & struggles with quite wild places, stuffed with all sorts of underwood, the old olives growing tangly all about. Frogs there were also, & rushes. A man passing, & asked the way to Sparterò ― said ― “διατί ἐπιθυμεῖς νὰ πηγαίνης ᾽ς το χώρι μου;[1] I shall not tell you.” ―― Small miserable collection of huts are Nicori, Palaiocori, & Βαστάτινα, & I see no fun in going back by them: so having drawn the Northern distance above the last village but one ― Dragolenà, & great groups of vast olives higher up ―― we arrived at Σπαρτηρῖο, 20 little houses scattered here & there; κατσικιές,[2] & rayther wretched: ― the people only half polite. Nevertheless there is superb scenery all about the place. We took a boy to guide us to Ἅ. Προκόπιος ― (the best place to pass the rest of the day in,) ―― ever winding paths, thro’ thickets, a few scared cattle. A church (in a wilderness,) & thus by 10 ― or 10.30 ― reached the groves of the Holy Προκόπιος. Lunched & drew in the wide grove till 1: nothing but a very elaborate study of this wood ― even if that, ― could convey an idea of this beautiful place: ― the quiet, warmth, & semishade are delightful. The Elements ― trees, clouds, &c. ― silence ― ὃλη ἡ φύσις δηλαδῆ[3] ― seem to have far more part with me or I with them, than mankind. After death perhaps I shall be a tree ― a cloud ― a cabbage ― or silence in the next world: but most possibly an ass. In these Προκόπιαν holy glades are but 3 very manifold colors, ― the warm pale green of the floor ― with long shades: ― the gray uniform freckly shimmer of the roof: & the dark brown gray of the supporting pillar trunx. At 1, or 1.30 ― into the Monastery, & drew till 3 ― awfully tortured by fleas, & obliged to stand in the sun all the time. As soon as I got to the sea I bathed ― killing 11 fleas first. At 6. Reached the Casa [Curì]: paid Dimitri 2 dollars [][4] a shilling[5] for his days work ― he merits it well.

Sate in the gallery with Dr. & Mrs. S. till dinner ― Dr. Samuello also ― 7.30 dinner ― alquanto [troppo][6], & I was horribly bored by a flea!

Bed by 10.15.

Kindly good folk[.]

[1] Why do you want to go to my village? (NB).

[2] Goats (NB).

[3] All of nature, that is (NB).

[4] A blotted word.

[5] Continues in the previous page, for 11 May.

[6] The second Italian word is partly blotted; the expression means: “Very much too much.”

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

Sunday, 11 May 1862

Marco Graziosi — Fri, 11 May 2012 08:00:50 +0000

Rose at 5.30. 6.30 out with G., & drew by the Ποταμὸς bridge. (Calabrians have a boat here, ― a company sent by Primo Pignatelli to search for Liquorice root.[)] Returning at 8.30 ― met Dr. Sansoni, & back with him to Ἅγιος Νάσσος ποῦ ἥτον ἐφολῆ,[1] & a giving away of boiled wheat & sweetmeats, some to us. Then we went to a higher point, where I drew again ― for the views are lovely. Finally ― we returned at 11.15. At 12 ― Colazione, at the end of the long Gallery, Sig. & Sig.ra Sansoni & I: pleasant & rational. The lovely distance recalls many far away days. ― At 1. drew a “femmina,” in Λευκίμμη costume. Ἑφανήθη[2] also, the Doctor’s mother; [] a pleasant old lady, [fever] suffering. After wh. ― I returned & slept till 3.30.

At 4 ― walked to the Gallery, & drew [ezidionety][3] till after sunset ―: the long brim of mountains, & 2ndly the northern view of S. Salvador &c. ―. ― Coversation for ½ an hour ― poi dinner. I wish they would not bring out various wines ― as one or two are enough: howbeit tonight there was port ― beyond all belief execrable & wholly undrinkable ― Which I said ― & did not try to drink it. These are warmhearted folk.

[1] Agios Nassos (St. Athanasius) where there was a feast (NB).

[2] Came (NB).

[3] This, or “ezidiomty,” is the word Lear wrote: it is not Italian or Greek.

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

Saturday, 10 May 1862

Marco Graziosi — Thu, 10 May 2012 08:00:34 +0000

Slept well, yet I think some heaviness proceeds from the air. At 5.30 ― (why do they put cinnamon in their coffe? ―) G. & I & Dimitri ― a well-behaved obliging χωριάτης[1] ― went out. Lovely bits of green sward or fern ― with beautiful olives ― characteristic bits of Lefchimo scenery, we passed, ―― & so reached the cypress tuffy hill of Ἄγιος Ταξιάρχης, by 7, or 6.30: where I drew 3 or 4 times. The “cypress tree” is here smisuratamente[2] existing: & thousands of tiny little cypress treelets pick up everywhere. At 9.30 we went “cross country” ― to Ἄ. Νικόλα, where we lunched ― but Χωρὶς νερὸ.[3] So I remain under the shade of a giant Εχινάρι a Lentish tree. There is everywhere a flood of gold & green & blue. This, & the breeze, blowing freshly now & then, remind me of days in many lands before that knowledge came which tells us we have so little, & so much conjecture. On Swiss, & Como hills in 1837 ― in the first years of Rome & Amalfi life /38,/9 ― the long Civitella sojourns ― 1839-40 ― Abruzzo 43-44 ― Sicily & Greece,ˇ[47] 48/49. ― I do not now suppose that kind of happiness can ever come back but by unexpected & unsought snatches; so I do not strive after it, nor mourn that I cannot have it. Only now & then, the whole long stream of bright ˇ[past] life glitters before me as it was in a distant valley, & I can seem to mark all its windings & shallows, & the lights & shadows on its far distant shores. Just now the lilac range of Albanian mountains with the few pale but defined clouds above, the blue sky & far deeper blue sea: the long ― almost blue plain of [distant] Ilias, & the still dark heavy full cypresses close by ― all bring back old memories. ― (What excessive contrast there is between the bloo-blooness of the sea & lilac hills, & the rich raw Sienna green of those Cypresses! ―) afterwards ― drew twice, & then to the hill of Ἀνάλειψις, & drew till 6: after which fogs begin & out of door life is fever. This Ἀνάλειψις view is the most pleasing hereabouts, & were there well-drawn figures, it would be beautiful, ― at sunset especially ― when the mountains, by means of many detail=shadows, lose much of their wall-like form.

“Home” at 6.20; Ἔφθασε ὁ Ιἀτρὸς:[4] to whom, & the [sost] ιἀτρόσ,[5] ― showed all my sketches. Dr. Samuello theological, (οὐ ἂντι-theological)[6] discussions were a wee-violent. The small boy Spiro’s queer ways were taking & amusing. It seems I stay here tomorrow ― en famille: ― Sparterò on Monday. Clomò Tuesday.

[1] Peasant (NB).

[2] Immeasurably, excessively.

[3] Without water (NB).

[4] The Doctor came (NB).

[5] Continues in the previous page, for 9 May.

[6] Not anti-theological (NB).

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

Friday, 9 May 1862

Marco Graziosi — Wed, 09 May 2012 08:00:28 +0000

Slept well. No fleas. G. is in anteroom. Rose at 4.30 coffee. Off 5.30 ― with G. & a guide, Dimitri. Heavy mist on all places ― plain & hills: wild paths, & flat desert-like spots: sandy walk by seaside.

Inland to S. Procopius ― a picturesque little monastery. beautiful olives. Hills near Sea, Capo Bianco[.] Solitary. Goats & dogs ― capo bianco ― drew. Mantis. fine ravine. ― At monastery of Ἀκροδείλιον by 9.30. Wonderful grove of Cypresses: drew a good deal: lovely day. Lunch. & drew ―. At 2 ― after various sketches began to go homeward. Walked down the hill, [][1]. By beautiful [][2] ― to Ἄ Προκόπιος ― a wonderfully pretty specimen of rural Gk. Monastery. To the sea thence, & bathed, & so by sand & hilly undulations ― back to Μελίχια to the Casa Κυροῦ by 6. This house & family reminds me of Abruzzi days. Dr. Samuelli dined, & nothing could be more pleasant than the whole matter ― save that they asked me to eat too much.

However I was too tired to be as polite as I ought to be. Bed at 9.30. The Dr. goes to town tomorrow.

[1] Several words have been struck out.

[2] Unreadable place name.

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

Thursday, 8 May 1862

Marco Graziosi — Tue, 08 May 2012 08:00:30 +0000

Fine day. Rose at 4.30. Rushed off by 6.20[.]

Light carriage. Picked up the Fosters, ― I to pay my arranged 4 dollars they 2. Very clear & lovely weather, walked on ― horses resting, ― at Strongili. On to 19^th mile, & lunched very pleasantly close to Ἄγια Τριάδα. At Lefchimo by 1. Dr. & Mrs. Sansone kindly folk. Coffee. Walked with them to the “Ποταμὸς.[”] At 3.30 took leave of the F.’s & went to Ἄ. Nicόλο, & Ἄ. Ἀνάλειψις ― but could not draw.

Returned: washed: waited: wrote. The Doctor came at times & talked. At 7.30 supper befell ― & very pleasant too & good withal, Maccaroni, Triglie, eggs ― Παλαμιδα[1] &c. Small only boy ― 15 months old. Under Doctor ― Samuello ― intelligent: studied in Paris & London. At 9, begged to go to bed, which was (apparently) clean.

[1] Bonito (NB), a kind of tuna.

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

Wednesday, 7 May 1862

Marco Graziosi — Mon, 07 May 2012 08:00:36 +0000

Rose at 6. ―

Got 25£ from Taylor. Breakfast with the 2 Fosters at 9. ―

at 11.30. drove with them to Κυνοπιάστες, ― but Villetta was not at home. (I asked Luard to dine ― first, & left a note for G. with the Παραμυθιόττι.) We drove also to Cupido’s fountn. Home by 1.30, & found G. had not had the letter given him by the Παρα= but had gone out. So I fumed & worried till 4.30. when he came in, & said he could dine L. & me at 8 ― Whereat ― at 5 ― I went out ― walking with the Fosters ―― wonderful sky ― & no end of rainbows: ― [at ][1].15 came Luard. At 10. bed.

[1] Blotted.

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]