Elitist for the Masses

Shadows on the Wall: Rogue Territory Stealth Stantons

2014-10-13T08:15:00.000-07:00

There are some brands I'm just drawn to. I've been this way my whole life. I suppose it stems from living inside my own head. As an only child, I spent several hours playing with Lego, designing, building, creating what I drew with my mind's eye. The notion of a platonic ideal, not understood as such by my child brain, was nevertheless the driving force behind such creations. Several components would work in concert, synthesizing a multitude of influences, yielding something which look like it's influences, but be it's own unique thing. I'd watch Buck Rogers, Battlestar Galactica, Airwolf, Blue Thunder, Firefox - if it flew or went into space, I'd labor over creating some new vessel that was at once derived from, but not present in, those universes.

Years later, as an adult, I find these same processes driving my eye toward clothing and accessories. I love clothes that are classics and look timeless, but at the same time, possess their own characteristics to make them their own interpretation, their own twist, but rooted in that same desire to reach for a Platonic ideal.

Rogue Territory is one in a long line of premium menswear companies who offer their own spin on classic jeans, jackets, shirts, and pants. What I particularly like about their jeans are two things - the fit, and the details. I purchased a pair of their stealth Stantons - a classic slim-straight silhouette, constructed in LA - in a sturdy, "murdered out" flat black (black warp/weft) selvedge denim from the Nihon Menpu mills in Japan. Unlike some black denim, these never started out shiny black, they were always an inky flat, abyss. The faint scent of sulfur (sulfur being used to dye the jeans) lingering on the finished product, only added to the menace. At 15 oz, the fabric has some real heft, and character. Before long the scent and stiffness dissipate yielding to your form, and becoming yours. These are far and away my favorite jeans these past 9 months. To my mind, as black denim, they are almost perfect: only the white inseam and button fly lining breaks the mood of these stealth jeans.

The photos below are of my pair - get your own pair, and put your own spin on them.

EDC: Taylor Stitch T-Shirts

2014-10-06T07:00:00.000-07:00

A good t-shirt is as singular as it is ubiquitous; you (can) wear one everyday, they can perform every function - from layer to statement, a t-shirt says something about your personality, even while wearing one you forget it is there. When they are done right, they transcend from everyday carry - to part of what you depend on to carry you through the day. In this, they are an alchemical marvel.

In a post two weeks ago, I briefly mentioned my search for the perfect t-shirt. It's been an epic quest - easily as long as the Lord of the Rings (with less hobbits). And just like LotR, there can only be one t-shirt to rule them all.

For me, at this time, that t-shirt is made by Taylor Stitch. It ticks several boxes for me:

1) Trim in the shoulders, room in the chest. All too often, if you want a shirt that hugs your shoulders, you have to pay the price by wearing a sausage casing all the way down. Not so with the t-shirts by Taylor Stitch. They are trim where they need to be, but skim, rather than encase, the body.

2) Not too short - all of their t-shirts have enough length to go past your belt, even with the lower modern rise on most pants, your shirt covers you, but doesn't look like a dress, either.

3)Pre-washed and pre-shrunk. None of that, how much do I need to size up? guessing game.

4) The cotton is a good quality - the base models are a nice thickness, they work as either stand alone tees or undershirts. The Sequoia models are burly, at 11oz, but so soft, they are supremely comfortable.

5) Though not an imperative - I like that they are made locally, in California.

Check them out online or in-store, they are a great addition to your wardrobe, and reasonably priced - $29, or 2 for $25 a piece.

A Rose by Any Other Name

2014-09-29T07:00:00.000-07:00

Long time readers will note that it's hardly just now I've stumbled on to an obsession with mechanical watches. I've always been fascinated with tools, aesthetics and Military influence on design. At the center of that intersection (6 corners in Chicago parlance) lays the Submariner. Rolex made a small batch of Submariner watches especially for the British Navy. There were probably less than 2000 made, ever. Rather than recite the whole story here, I'll simply direct you to Gear Patrol's informative article about the subject, here. But as long as you're here, look at the pretty picture:

Beautiful, right? Well, it could cost you about $80,000-$100,000. Doesn't look so hot now, does it? Unless you have that kind of scratch laying around, in which case, good on you. The whole purpose of these watches was that they were tools - tough, waterproof watches with automatic movements, designed for legibility - "sword hands" replacing the usual Rolex hands, and work, with no option but to wear a military strap, the bars being fixed to the case. They shouldn't be six figure status symbols, but supply and demand being what it is, scarcity makes it so.

Enter Steinhart Watches. Due to patents no longer preventing designs from looking like this, they've created what in watch circles is called an "homage" watch to the above design, the Ocean Vintage Military. Looking much like the above watch, but in a 42mm case (instead of a 40mm case that Rolex Submariners have long used), it is made of well machined 316L stainless steel, powered by an ETA 2824 automatic watch movement, which is built like a tank, with ubiquitous replacement parts available, and a 300 meter waterproof depth rating, if you feel like diving that deep and seeing what time it is. While it will never be a Rolex, it's not $100,000; It's $500. Though beautiful, it is a tool, not a status symbol. If you want a full review of this watch, you can't do better than Worn&Wound's review of it, available here.

And it made a lovely 40th birthday present to myself.

Weekend Waxing

2014-09-22T07:00:00.000-07:00

I've lived in San Francisco fourteen months now. In that time, all notions of seasonal apparel learned in a lifetime of living in Chicago have fallen by the wayside. This is not an entirely bad thing. While in some ways, my sartorial skills have atrophied - no one needs to wear suits anywhere, unless you work in Finance it seems. My dress shoes, long a staple of my day to day in Chicago for work in the not-for-profit space now seem only to exist to occupy a spare corner of my closet.

Days are now spent in search of the perfect fitting t-shirt, a button down that looks best un-tucked, the ideal pair of sneakers, the right pair of jeans. My sneaker game has never been stronger - multiple pairs in white, in black, from several manufacturers, abound in my wardrobe. This past week, I saw on sale a pair of Vans I have eyed for many months now. On sale. Part of the "Van Doren" Era collection, but no longer on the site, I couldn't pass them up. So I didn't.

Lovely shoes, but I am a tinkerer. Remembering that somewhere in the house was a bar of Otter Wax, I thought, well, hell, I live in San Francisco, I bet these would look great if I waxed them. Theoretically it's damp and rainy here much of the year, and waxing the canvas to help waterproof these would really help turn them into year-round shoes. So armed with a bar of wax and a heat gun re-purposed from my wife's craft bin, and a bit more patience than I normally exhibit, I'm now ready for the city - whether the drought continues or not.

The process couldn't be simpler - take out the laces, and rub the bar of wax on the whole canvas upper, working in sections. Then use the heat gun to melt the wax into the fabric, being mindful not to scorch anything. "Don't scorch anything" sounds dire in a check-that-door-for-heat-Tim Backdraft way, but it's actually really easy; apply heat to a small section of the waxed shoe, wait for the wax to shimmer, turn off the gun, and work it in with your fingers. Do this over the surface of the entire shoe. Repeat with other shoe and BOOM! Done. Break your arm patting yourself on the back.

Luther's Denim - A New Jean on the Scene

2013-10-23T07:00:00.000-07:00

It's hard to separate the blue jeans from America. When Bruce Springsteen has a record cover with him, in jeans, standing before an American flag, it sort of drives the point home.

Blue jeans are quintessentially American.

So when I was approached by Luther's to review a pair of their jeans - unsanforized, made in the USA Cone Mills redline denim - I jumped at the chance. Full disclosure, I was given these jeans free of charge, and while I still intend to give an unbiased review - I want to be out in the open. Their jeans are utilitarian - no hidden selvedge belt loops or coin pockets here. These are designed to be worn like their predecessors. Their nearest comparison might be to the LVC range, albeit focused on the mid-20th century, rather than running the gamut of denim history. Focus is good for a young company, and really, who doesn't like blue jeans and rock and roll? They have three fits at this time - the 47's - a slim model, the 55's - a regular fit, and the 66's - a tapered fit.

I asked for, and received, a pair of the 66 model. Raw out of the box the quality of the finished construction impressed me.

In particular, the denim looks really great. Of the two below pictures, the bottom is probably more accurate in color, a deep blue-black, which should wear nicely. And check out that nice white/red selvedge!

Another aspect I like is the hardware - the rivets, the buttons and patch, all have a heft, and really nice finish, while still looking the part, evoking the classic style associated with blue jeans.

But all do they fit? Well, raw, they fit big. But they should shrink, according to their website, by about 2 inches in the waist and 2-3 in the legs. Pre-soak fit pics:

Stay tuned for post-soak fit pics. Anyone starting a new denim company in this day and age needs drive and direction. It looks like Luther's has both - the question is do the public want traditionally detailed selvedge jeans? I'm betting they will.

Dockers Want You to Wear the Pants

2013-04-10T10:16:00.003-07:00

I have a dirty secret. It's not something that would normally be considered shocking, but amongst the denim heads I consider my tribe, it's akin to treason.

I hated blue jeans as a child.

Stiff, scratchy, uncomfortable - they were my pants of last resort. Through most of high school, I wore anything but jeans: khakis (this was before anyone called them chinos), fatigue pants - anything else. Since that time, I've fallen in love with raw denim, and embraced the challenge of the break in. But I have never stopped loving chinos.

You could argue that if jeans have a rebellious image, khakis and chinos have, in modern times, acquired something of a conservative, safe connotation. Dockers seeks to undo this. Kind enough to send me a couple pairs of their Alpha khakis, they are everything jeans are (or more appropriately, should be, to me), slim, modern, appealing - but I can wear them to work. And go out later and still feel like I have my edge. Embrace your inner everyman - Not Tom Hanks, but Jack Lemmon, Jimmy Stewart. Maybe your everyman is Montgomery Clift - but there are chino-ed icons out there, waiting to show you how it's done.

THIS is how it's done.

Dockers will be in Chicago Thursday April 11th and 12th to personally show you how it's done with the help of GQ executive stylist Brett Fahlgren and Chicago-based fashion stylist Naima Naito. They will show you how to wear the pants. But, you ask, where are the pants? On Thursday, from 11-6, they'll be at Pioneer Court (Michigan Ave and the River) and on Friday, from 12-7, they'll be at One Financial Place. Go hang out at the Dockers Airstream trailer, and win some pants, then wear them.

Who doesn't love an Airstream?

3Sixteen Jeans: I Wanted Black

2013-02-28T04:30:00.000-08:00

When I went to San Francisco last fall, I knew I'd go to Self Edge. I spent my first full day wandering around the city, taking Caltrain to BART, and wandering the mission, while my wife attended various work functions in Palo Alto, which seemed to be a city worth missing. After a nice breakfast sandwich and coffee from Bar Tartine, I wandered over to Self Edge. Before going, I had a pretty solid idea that I was going to look at the 3Sixteen jeans, and due to my strangely over-large calves, I'd be looking at their slim straight cut. Likewise, for whatever reason, I knew - I KNEW - that I was going to pick up a pair in black.

I was half right.

Once I saw the Shadow Selvedge, I knew that was what I was going to get. With indigo dyed warp threads, and black dyed weft threads, initially they have a very dark, almost formal denim look, if such a thing is possible. But as they wear, they get fantastic, almost electric contrasts. With the cognac leather patch, they are definitely worth picking up.

I'd be remiss if I didn't mention my post-purchase libation celebration, recommended by Kiya - Zeitgiest. Go there and enjoy yourself.

Oscar Tuxes - When Trying too Hard Goes Wrong.

2013-02-25T04:47:00.000-08:00

Short but sweet. If a picture is worth a thousand words, I'm going to "write" several thousand.

Men need to stop trying to be "different" when it comes to formal attire. Jamie Foxx, I'm staring at you (you were brilliant in Django, for the record):

No.

You can wear a black tux, a navy tux, a tux with peak lapels, notch lapels, shawl collars. There are a lot of ways to do it right. Here are a few of them:

Hello navy.

I mean, even with the too long pants, it's Clooney.

Can I borrow someones beard?

Classic looks, all - but they've managed to look current with attention to cut and detail. That is the secret.

And if the consensus comes down that Jamie Foxx was wearing a fantastic outfit, we'll all agree to disagree.

Left Field High Slub Jeans

2013-02-20T05:00:00.001-08:00

On December 30, 2009, Context - who I have written about in the past (click here or here) - launched a New Years Eve flash sale. Immediately, I was drawn to a pair of Left Field jeans. Described on Context's web site as "high slub rinse" - basically a very slubby fabric (16oz.- which is substantial), which was rinsed once, to get shrinkage out of the way, they were lovely, slim fit, with high placed back pockets, great hardware, and dynamite bandana cloth pocket bags. The best part? The were half off - $99. They remain one of my go-to pairs of jeans. Worn cuffed they fit trim and the slubbiness has given way to yield great vertical fading with a soft, near towel-like interior texture. Behold:

Ladies Love Denim Too, Part Two

2013-02-18T10:28:00.001-08:00

On a recent work trip to San Francisco, Jake decided to fly out and make a weekend trip together. I knew the dangers (expenses) of Jake in SF, it is practically his shopping mecca. So you can understand why I was a little nervous being stuck in meetings all day while he went shopping. During the 4th powerpoint of the day I started to get texts that he had already hit up Selfedge, Luckily he didn't do too much damage so I figured I was in the clear.

When I was finally done with my meetings in Palo Alto I went up to SF for the weekend. He asked if I wanted to check out Selfedge, I figured why not, it would be nice to finally meet Kiya - (though he wasn't there when we arrived) and see what the shop was about. Since I have been wearing my Nudies nearly to death, I figured it wouldn't hurt to get another quality pair of denim to throw into the mix.

Once again a little weird to be the only girl in the store and they told me to go in the dressing room and just started handing me pair after pair to try on. Yea, that's right ladies I didn't pick anything out, two dudes told me what would look good. Also I learned a very important lesson from the denim experts. If your posterior is well endowed try either low rise or high rise jeans to avoid that gap in the back. Anything that falls in the middle will likely end up in some seriously unwanted whale tale, unless you are into that type of thing.

I was always jealous that dudes can get all this awesome selvedge denim, but it was always so stiff and not exactly figure friendly for women. So I was totally thrilled when they brought out 3sixteen+ 77BSP Women's Jeans - Skinny Fit. Unique to these jeans (all the 3sixteen+ fits for women), is a new fabric designed by Cone Mills that they call S-Gene denim - it's selvedge, but it stretches in 4 directions - up, down, side to side - about 10% which is plenty to allow for form fitting comfort. Though I've had them for only a short time, they are already developing nice fades. Jake is jealous.

Penfield Spring/Summer 2013: My Favorite Looks

2013-02-12T11:00:00.000-08:00

Penfield just dropped their lookbook for Spring/Summer 2013, and I gotta tell you, I like it. It looks like the east coast northeast summers I always imagined but never had. Here in Chicago, you have to make do with Door County, Wisconsin, if you want your ersatz east coast beach. But it's a good analogue. While no one will be surprised at my choosing pictures with camouflage or Vans, I did try to reach past my own comfort zone a bit, and pick what I liked best, even if it wasn't my personal style. All the pictures are lovely, and I suggest you look at the full lookbook here for your favorites. Here are mine:

Ladies Love Denim Too, Part One

2013-02-09T11:39:00.000-08:00

Note: This is a post, the first of two about women's denim, from my better half, the remarkable @henbecdecor - follow her on Twitter for all things whiskey and beverage related, as well as general sardonic wit.

I am not talking about what most women think passes for "nice" jeans. Yes, I am talking to you, miss I went to the Nordstrom semi-anniversary sale and bought 2 pairs of sevens, j. brand, hudson, and a pair of citizens for $300. I used to be one myself. I still have an old pair of sevens that I paint in.

You can wear jeans almost everywhere these days, I mean, let's be honest, the majority of businesses allow at least business casual, and in my industry jeans are not only acceptable but if you are wearing anything nice people assume you have an interview to go to (my husband can't wear jeans to work, it's pretty funny). I wear jeans almost every single day of the week, so I need a pair that is going to last.

Luckily I am married to a man that knows quite a bit about denim. Back in the day, there wasn't a great place in Chicago to purchase quality denim, so we would make a little trip up to Context in Madison. I was prepared to spend some cash on a nice pair of jeans but I was not prepared that most of the jeans do not stretch the way us women would like. There I was in the dressing room being told by 3 men to try on the tightest pair possible because they would eventually stretch (which is true). I was more worried that I was going to rip the zipper out trying to get them on, or risk face-planting in the dressing room. I won't lie, it was an odd moment, I mean, I was used to guys wearing shapeless, baggy faded denim, and here I was being told by a room full of men to go as tight as I could.

Fortunately, one of the pairs they told me to try on were Nudie Jeans, the Tight Long John model, which DO have some stretch to them, so wearing a tight pair of them wasn't like dipping my legs into iron shackles. They were "raw" - which most ladies hear and say "what?" - means they weren't distressed or washed in any way. I think they might be a silly cut on guys (I never liked guys who were rail thin; I like guys with some meat on them, ask my husband), low-waisted and stretchy all the way down, they are perfect for women who want a slim jean with some "denimhead" cred (yes, they are a thing, I've discovered). Nudie Jeans takes making jeans ethically seriously, and so you don't have to feel bad buying a pair - no Indonesian (or whoever) children are being broken on the denim looms to make these jeans. See their page here for details about their philosophy.

As a first pair of dry denim, they are great, and four years later, look great!

Stay tuned for Part Two, where she'll dish about her latest pair of dry denim, this pair by 3sixteen.

Mister Freedom Deck Jacket

2013-02-06T05:00:00.000-08:00

The Mister Freedom Deck Jacket N-1H, from the 2008 winter collection straight blew my mind. It dropped at the end of 2008, and for a year, I talked myself out of it. Finally, in December of 2009, I snapped, and ordered one - from the J.Crew SoHo Men's Shop, of all places. It was the best winter jacket purchase I. Have. Ever. Made. First, let's talk about the fact it's based on two timeless U.S. Navy styles.

This, which has a knit bottom, and hooks, but no zipper (pictured is the Buzz Rickson model):

Deck Jacket - early model

And, this, which has no knit bottom or knit collar, or hooks, but it has a wind flap and a zipper (also Buzz Rickson model):

Also, a Deck Jacket - this one from say 1943 or so

To form, like Voltron, this wonderful jacket. Note it has the knit collar, but no knit bottom, and has both a zipper AND hooks, as well as wrist knits:

Lined with wool blanket material, and sandwiched between the wool and jungle cloth outer shell is organdy, which is windproof. When it was new, it crinkled, now I am as silent as the ninja. And just as deadly. The jacket has a wonderful heft, as though you're shrugging on armor to protect yourself from the elements. As it's February, this is a good thing. There are elements about to protect against!

If you can find one, get it. If you can't I feel bad for you son.

More jacket porn:

Label Info

Clasp says he's ready for his close-up, director.

Wool lining - pet hair sold seperately

Welcome to the party, Mr. Windflap

Zipper says, "Rivet".

Don't fear the wind with this woolen knit to protect your neck!

Zipped but not latched, the wind can get ya!

But not now!

Lost at sea? No, it's just a close-up of the Jungle Cloth. But it looks like the ocean.

Check out this totally rad time-lapse video of photographer Cory Piehowicz (you can read his blog here) waxing his Mister Freedom Deck Jacket.

Mister Freedom N1-H waxed from Bandit Hunter on Vimeo.

Field Jacket: Unlikely Beginnings

2013-01-31T05:00:00.000-08:00

Most everyone loves a field jacket. J.Crew makes a nice one, Fjallraven makes a nice waxed one that I own, Alpha Industries has made the civilian M-65 forever. They are utilitarian, stylish and hell, they make you look cool.

Oban - this is the one I have (well, the model I have).

This is the J.Crew Garrison Fatigue Jacket, being worn by some, like, model dude.

The good old Alpha Industries M-65. What up.

Would you believe these jackets, these iconic pieces of menswear, actually can trace their existence to this coat?

It's the M-41 field jacket! Oh snap!

The M-41 field jacket (a reproduction above) was issued to US military personnel in the early days of World War II (any guesses what the 41 stands for? That's right, year), and a outright success it wasn't. Sure, it had hand warmer pockets, but made of cotton and lined with wool, despite the wind flap guarded zipper, it wasn't warm. And you couldn't carry shit with it. It looked cool, which was why soldiers liked it, and if you weren't in the front, that would be cool. Paratroopers were issued their own uniform, the M42, and if you've seen Band of Brothers, you know what that looks like. It looks like this:

M42 - Look, pockets!

This could carry your gear. Worn through Normandy, by Market Garden in September 1944, paratroopers, and everyone else, began wearing the M-43 field jacket. Which had buttons instead of a zipper, but otherwise looked much like what everyone thinks a field jacket should look like these days.

M-43: There are buttons under that flap. That's what She said.

The M-51 was the M-43, but with a zipper:

M-51, this one being a reproduction that US Wings sells

And after this was the M-65, which everyone knows. Thus ends the lecture! Well, if you want some extra credit, here are more pictures of my M-41 (which has moved on since those pics were taken):

Only Now Did I Discover Nau Clothing

2013-01-28T05:00:00.000-08:00

I thank my good friend Mark for any and all awareness of Nau. Why it took me 6 months after he first mentioned them to actually look 'em up is anyone's guess. Sufficient punishment has been the winter I've gone through without a proper coat, something a quick look at their website could have long ago alleviated.

Nau describes their aesthetic as "sustainable urban + outdoor apparel". If you break those down to individual pieces, you quickly see they achieve each. Their slim, unfussy designs, bereft of unnecessary edifice has an sleek look that is sophisticated without taking any utilitarian elements away from a design. Each piece has a litany of design features which make a compelling case for outdoor use. There are other brands which combine these two elements, but what really sets Nau apart is their dedication to sustainability. Peruse their "business unusual" section of the site, and you'll quickly see it's not simple lip-service to environmental concerns. They explain what fabrics they use and why, what type of shipping they prefer to use, where they manufacture, what standards those manufacturers must adhere to, and so forth.

All of that would be so much window dressing - but they also deliver the goods:

Synfill Sweater - $100

Rheostat Jacket - $255

Succinct Trench - $280

Each of these jackets (and there are many more on their site which are also lovely) has a full featured list of technical specs - waterproof, compressible, utilizing a multitude of insulating methods, yet each jacket looks clean, minimal, modern - yet classic. Do yourself a favor, upgrade your seasonable apparel at Nau Clothing.

Taylor Stitch, Let Me Into Your Pants

2013-01-24T05:00:00.000-08:00

Maybe it's the fact that the last two days in Chicago have inspired many a Hoth joke (tip of the cap to all your Empire Strikes Back, SW Ep 5 nerds out there), but of late I have been preoccupied with how one goes about dressing in a thoughtful and stylish manner during cold snaps.

I've gotten a lot of miles out of a pair of flannel-lined J.Crew khakis, but what about when I'm not commuting to work (don't get me started about a jeans-less dress code), how do I stay warm then? I think Taylor Stitch has provided me with an answer, and something new to crush on, to boot: flannel-lined jeans. Behold:

Flannel Lined 13 oz. Denim

Flannel Lined Interior

These lovely jeans have been produced as part of a special project, Taylor Stitch for Solitary Arts. Solitary Arts is a skate company which makes it's products - boards, hard goods - in California. Flowing from passion for skateboarding, their functional, yet artistic expression blends nicely with Taylor Stitch, who most of us know primarily for their excellent shirting. At $128, their jeans are a steal. Snatch a pair up today; I bet they'd go great with a pair of Vans and a skateboard. Just saying.

No Cure for Summertime Shoes

2013-01-18T05:00:00.000-08:00

Terrible, God-awful pun. I know this. But I also know fresh kicks for the warmer months is one of the few (to my mind) perks of being forced to sweat for months on end. The last few summers, I've always had a pair of Converse Purcell's around. I love 'em - they're versatile and comfortable, and I love that even the black canvas ones come with the light blue bottom, cause some years they don't.

I still love you, Purcell!

But lately, I've been feeling Vans a great deal, too. Definitely more west coast, more casual, but just as versatile. Last summer I picked up a pair of Old Skools. I love them and wear them still - in fact they are on my feet now as I type, having aged into near slipper comfort.

Hi good looking.

This year, however, I have my eye on these bad boys. I heard the angels sing.

Era 59 in black suede with camo accents. The camouflage, though my wife would probably disagree, is very subtly done, and the suede gives it a more refined appearance. However they are sold out at DQM. Sad. But I wait, and I hope, that they will be back in stock soon! (UPDATE - As of January 30, they are available at Urban Outfitters; get them for $55. Thanks Vans customer service for misleading me.)

But if not, you can build your own, in Canvas (and minus the heel accent, which is a feature unique to the Era 59). It's a distant second, but I might pull the trigger. Design your own custom shoes for summer here.

NATO Watch Straps

2013-01-15T05:00:00.000-08:00

If you're anything like me, the months of January and February are the most brutal. Brutal in the sense that even if you like cold weather (as I do), there's little sunlight. Brutal in the sense that the Holidays are past. Other than some vague notion of spring, and maybe (MAYBE) Valentine's Day, there's not much to look forward to. And brutal in the sense that those same Holidays likely rode off with your money and vacation time.

Kind of grim, isn't it? Well, don't fret. One of my favorite things is, in these relatively cash-strapped times, to gear up on accessories. You have a watch, right? Go get some NATO watch straps. These straps are easy to swap, secure your watch even if one pin breaks, and can help add a little something to your ensemble. All this for very little money. You may remember this photo from my Best of 2012 posts:

That's a NATO watch strap. I ordered the one above from amazon.com, but you can find them almost anywhere on the web. One place I just discovered, and will be ordering from next time is Crown and Buckle. They have over 100 nylon NATO watch straps, all for $12 a piece. That can easily be one lunch out in Chicago. If you want a leather NATO watch strap, one which might dress up your otherwise utilitarian watch, they are all of $16 a piece. So maybe a lunch and a half. Crazy. Do yourself a favor and check out their site, and pick out a few to swap out on your wrist this late winter into spring. Below are some of my favorites from their site:

"Bond" style - he wore one like the above in Goldfinger

"Coffee" brown leather

Spring Sunglasses and Aviator Love

2013-01-12T05:00:00.000-08:00

Maybe it's to escape the doldrums of the second act of winter. Maybe it's the anticipation of spring. Maybe it's the unseasonably warm weather Chicago is experiencing (as I type it's 52 degrees; not usual for the 11th of January around here). Whatever the impetus, I'm starting to think about warmer temperatures, and how that might affect my wardrobe.

While I love my Ray-Ban Wayfarers (see my top ten list of 2012), sometimes the idea of thick acrylic gripping the sides of my head just makes me sweat. So for this upcoming spring and summer, I plan on slipping on some metal framed sunglasses to help shield my eyes from the bright sun, or a painful hangover. Don't judge.

I've always been drawn to aviator styles; a quick peruse of my blog will illuminate any number of reasons for this. But the most straightforward answer is this - they are timelessly cool. This season, I'm drawn to the more modern, post-Korean War shape modern pilots still wear. Don't let Top Gun fool you into thinking those big teardrop lensed glasses are still standard issue. The style I'm referring to is called, officially, the "Flight Goggle 58" - and three brands make them: American Optical, Randolph Engineering and Ray-Ban, although they all have differing names for the sunglasses.

American Optical - Original Pilot

Randolph Engineering - Aviator


Ray-Ban Caravan

True, there are a few cosmetic differences. Namely, the bridge on the Ray-Ban's is smaller than on either the American Optical (AO) or Randolph Engineering (RE) versions. Setting that aside, the other difference is this - both AO and RE were actually manufactured for the U.S. Military. And both are made in the U.S.A. Currently, Randolph Engineering has the contract from the government. But AO was the original contract winner in the 1950's. And Neil Armstrong wore his AE's on the moon. THE MOON. Also, American Optical sunglasses are cheaper by a country mile. Okay, that's imprecise. They are half the price of RE's, or Ray-Bans.

Which is why this summer I'll be wearing American Optical Original Pilots. USA made, OG credentials, and they were worn on the moon.

The eagle has landed.

Selvage for the Masses

2013-01-08T05:00:00.000-08:00

A couple years ago, I made a post which, in hindsight, I'm slightly embarrassed by. It was to tout cheap selvage at the Gap. Untraceable, unremarkable selvage, made in China, most likely, nothing with much character to speak up, except for a silly blue rivet. The price, was, I believe $88, and I paid $66. And this was 2009 money. Why, they'd probably be regularly $90 today!

To sum up, I was blogging about jeans - at the Gap. It seemed like a good idea at the time.

Gustin, however, seems to have come up with a concept worth blogging about. They are going to take Cone Mills (from North Carolina) redline selvage denim, manufacture them in San Francisco (one my my favorite cities in the country, but that's another story), and charge their wholesale price of...wait for it...$81!

This video explains:

Check out the detailed pictures below from their Kickstarter page:

Left to Right - 1.5 years old, 6 months old, brand spanking new

I am very excited by what this could mean - jeans that are U.S. assembled and made of U.S sourced fabric at such a low price point - so to that end, I'll be putting my money where my mouth (and blog) is, so stay tuned for posts regarding fit and finish!

Gingham Style

2013-01-07T06:30:00.000-08:00

Full disclosure: I hate that I played it easy and wrote a Gangham Style pun. Fortunately, I've never heard the song, so I can only base my disdain for it, and my pun, on the reactions of others.

However, I love, unreservedly love, gingham shirting. To some, the snarky, the unimaginative, they'll tell you that you look like this:

In case you were wondering, yes, I've had people say I looked like a picnic table.

They are wrong.

What I like about gingham is very similar to what I like about denim. Both fabrics are not dyed after being woven. Instead, the color comes from the warp thread. Usually the weft fabric is uncolored (in denim) or white (in gingham). Unlike denim, there is no right side to gingham fabric.

With the exception of formal business functions, Gingham is very versatile. It makes great western shirts:

Dress shirts:

In dark colors:

Or light:

With a tie:

In short, it goes with everything, works with almost every occasion, and adds a bit of complexity to any outfit. Looking for gingham? Here are a few places I like to get them:

This is just a small list. Gingham - it's everywhere!

Everybody's Whiskey for the Weekend

2013-01-04T06:30:00.000-08:00

I love whiskey. It's the first interest that brought Jake and I together. When we got married 2 1/2 years after we met, all of our tables were named after our favorite whiskeys (Basil Hayden, Sazerac Rye, Elmer T. Lee, etc.). During the "great compromise of 2010" - he wanted a cat, I wanted a dog, we got one of each. Now we have our cat, Templeton and our dog, Rye. We won the "special achiever's" award at Templeton Rye's Shoes and Cue 2011. I also hosted the whiskey tasting for the Boardwalk Empire Premiere event in Chicago (See pic below).

Boardwalk Empire Premiere: Whiskey Tasting (I'm in the Middle and Jake is on the right)

Clearly you see where I am going with this - other than the occasional hangover, we go together with whiskey like peas and carrots. Our families, knowing us well, often give us interesting and special whiskeys. This Christmas, we were fortunate enough to receive a bottle of Middle West Spirits OYO Michelone Reserve Bourbon from my brother and sister in law.

Hailing from Columbus, Ohio, OYO Michelone Reserve Bourbon is a great and distinctive addition to any home bar. If you are like me and you like a drink before you take your shoes off Monday-Friday, it is a fantastic option. A blend - it contains Kentucky bourbon and OYO's 100% wheat whiskey. OYO's whiskey is Ohio's first 100% wheat whiskey in over a century. The result is exceptionally smooth, with nuances of caramel and light smokey oak. In fact, the only complaint I have is it took both Jake and I almost 5 minutes to cut through the wax seal on the bottle - that's a lot of work!

Middle West Spirits describes themselves as "Central Ohio’s first micro-distillery. It produces high-quality, artisanal spirits using only the best ingredients sourced from farms across Ohio." Brady Konya and Ryan Lang are certainly giving me yet another reason to visit Columbus.

First Crush of the New Year - Outlier

2013-01-02T12:47:00.000-08:00

This one has been lurking for a long while, but it's finally blossomed to a full-fledged menswear crush status. I don't care who knows it, either. I say it loud: I love Outlier Tailored Performance clothing. I mean, Just look at this jacket:

Supermarine Soft Core Jacket

What I love about Outlier can be distilled into just three points:

They make their clothes in the USA - New York City, to be specific.
They use innovative, performance fabrics with desirable properties such as water resistance, yet breathe well and have good stain resistance,
They use classic, well-loved templates for their clothing. Nothing looks too technical.

Focusing on lean silhouettes, they create tough clothing that moves with you, clothes that can suffer a rainstorm or steamy commute.

There's just one problem for someone like me - I'm not skinny enough to wear a lot of their styles! Most slim fit pants are too slim for me (as an example, J.Crew "classic" fit chinos fit me slim; so do Uniqlo vintage chinos, though they are listed as "regular fit"). But I think I couild swing a few of their pants, Specifically:

New OGs

-and-

Keirin Cut Dungarees

Garments like these really speak to my aesthetic - traditional, but with a functional yet edgy look to them. And built to take hell, too. Hopefully this year I'll have the chance to give them hell, myself!

12 Best of 2012, Part II

2012-12-31T12:29:00.002-08:00

As promised yesterday, here is Part II of my top 12 of 2012:

Grenson Ellery Double Monk Shoes - $223.33

Double Monk shoes were something I had been dreaming of for years, when they exploded on the scene. I attribute this to a picture of my Grandfather during WWII, in his khaki pilot best, sitting on steps, wearing a snazzy pair of cap-toed monk strap shoes. Before - and after - the war, he worked in menswear, so I suppose his shoes shouldn't elicit too much surprise. I was able to snap these up at 1/2 price from Haberdash (yay!), and they make looking sharp very easy. They go great with...

Ludlow sportcoat in Colburn English Wool Tweed - $298

Tweed? Necessary for the cooler months, but not overly professorial in this contemporary cut by J.Crew. It looks great as a sportcoat worn over a shirt and tie, with nice dress pants, for a more formal affair, but it looks great dressed down with...

SL-120x (Straight Leg) - $240

A slim straight leg by 3Sixteen in a ridiculously saturated dark indigo, which looks fantastic dressed up or down. I, not being the skinny type, can't pull off slim tapered, but these straight leg jeans give me a nice modern look, and are made of great selvedge, with black weft threads, causing great electric fades. I bought mine at Self Edge, and you can't go wrong entrusting your denim wants to Kiya. The back patch is made by Tanner Leather Goods, and they also made my...

Utility Bifold in Oxblood - $75

Tanner Goods wallet. My old wallet was getting real ratty, and my in-laws were nice enough to get me this sweet replacement. I love Tanner, I have one of their belts, and can say nothing but positive things about it. Hopefully this little number will give me great pocket fades in my 3Sixteens. If I wear them with...

Sherpa Bedford Cord Trucker Jacket - $88.90

A Levi's Trucker Jacket for the Canadian tuxedo look. Two points in this outfits favor? 1) Corduroy instead of denim and 2) Type II pleats down the front. My favorite jean jacket look. Oh yeah, warm sherpa lining, and hand pockets. It's my go-to winter casual jacket. If I feel like going one stop above sneakers or boots, I wear...

Otis 1955 Crepe Sole Camp Moc Oxford - $195

Ridiculously comfortable, these camp mocs by Eastland, part of their 1955 collection, are truly multipurpose shoes. Lazy Sunday? Throw 'em on. Late for work? Throw 'em on. These are damn near zombie apocalypse level on the run shoes.

Well, there you have it. My favorites of 2012. I'll catch you all next year!

12 Best of 2012, Part I

2012-12-30T13:16:00.000-08:00

With 2012 drawing to a close, and the Mayan's incorrect about our end, I wanted to put together a list of my favorite "gets" of 2012. Shoes, accessories, shirts, jackets - this list has it all. Below are 6 of my 12 favorites of this year:

Walkover Suede Saddle Shoes - $269

These shoes brought my summer wedding game to a new level, and really paired nicely with everything from suits, to jeans, to, well, the below...

Dockers Alpha Khaki in Olive Camo - $64

2012 was the year of camouflage, according to sources like GQ and Complex. I was hooked by camo from the second I saw it return, however, my lovely wife was less sold, and deflected my inner Jay-Z, vetoing any purchase of the lovely Baldwin Ryan Camo pant. However, at considerably less cost, I was able to negotiate these lovely Alphas. They are very comfortable, and are a great place to hang...

Corter Bottle Hook - Currently Sold Out!

I was smart enough (read: my wife sent me it) to help out with the Kickstarter of this lovely invention, and poof! - my carabiner key holder was forever cast away. Now, when the time is right for a beer, I just used my bottle hook. And I know the time is right for a beer, thanks to...

18mm NATO Watch Band - $11.95

Yeah, this neat watch band holds my watch to my wrist, letting me know it's late enough in the day to crack a beer. Red and black are two colors I love together, so this was a no-brainer. You can see it working in concert with my next favorite item from 2012 in the photo below taken at Haberdash's Fashion Night Out party where I'm wearing...

Frank and Oak Hemingway Button-Down - Not Available

This shirt has a nearly 1 to 1 wear to complement ratio. Nothing else I own has that. Not. One. Thing. And it was $45, super cheap relative to it's quality. It's cool, and how do I keep cool? With...

Ray Ban New Wayfarer - $125*

The * is because my wife got these for free as a gift from a client. She immediately gave them to me. My wife>your wife. And because they were free, to me, they were cheap sunglasses like ZZ Top. 'Nuf said!

Stay tuned for Part II