Elitist for the Masses

I May Have

2011-08-10T21:52:00.003-05:00

A problem.

I dig these Made in USA Eastland of Maine moccasin chukka boots too much. It's gonna be a chukka-filled fall for me, I can tell. Available online at Blackbird.

The Fall Has Begun

2011-08-04T20:56:00.003-05:00

Well, it has begun to put a claim on my money, anyway. It is time to take a break from displaying my nerd credentials, which are at this point self-evident, to discuss, in this case, boots. Simply put, these boots are killing it. Yuketen has been has been making gorgeous goods since 1985, and in my personal opinion, designer and founder Yuki Matsuda has knocked it out of the park with these Maine Guide DB Chukkas. Horween leather from my hometown of Chicago, hand-sewn moccasin construction, and a real cool ankle height boot with a crepe sole. Wear these with chinos or jeans, or if you are real confident, shorts. I don't think there is a wrong move, except not to get them. Time to start selling organs folks! Available at Context. Now go buy them! But leave a pair in size 11 for me.

Killing

I Blame Lego

2011-08-01T21:49:00.006-05:00

I thought I'd take a break from the usual denim and what have you (what do I write about anyway?) and briefly, and publicly admit something: I like Lego. When I was a wee nerd, watching Battlestar Galactica (the original series, not the re-imagined one, though I love that too. So say we all.), Buck Rogers, etc, I'd scurry off to my lego bins, and try my best to re-create the spacecraft I saw on the shows. I once even tried to build the Searcher big enough to actually hold starfighters, but I lacked the pieces, and at age 7, attention span required. Jeez, you look back at a paragraph like this, it's amazing I actually found a girl (and a hot one, too!) to marry me.

This is a better starfighter than I could make. What do you want? I was 7. It was the 70's.

So, I can trace my love of lego to the late 70's, a long time, but how did they get there? Who created them to ensnare me so? Well, for that, you can thank a Danish Carpenter (I don't think he was Jewish, but a Lego messiah? Maybe.) named Ole Kirk Christiansen. During the Great Depression, he began making wooden toys to support his family, and by the late 1940's, he had created over 2oo wooden, and later plastic, toys. The name, Lego, came from the Danish words leg godt, "play well". Lego also means "I put together" in Latin, which because I am obsessed with Rome, and as if further proof was needed, a nerd, I think is cool. In 1958 he patented the block system; blocks built today can still be connected to blocks from 1958. Unfortunately, in March of 1958 Ole Kirk (that's his name, not 'ole Kirk) had a heart attack so he didn't get to see the success his company would become. But his son, and grandson did, and that's awesome.

I still have my bins of lego (and an understanding wife), awaiting my next sick (really sick, like flu sick) day where building something and eating grilled cheese is about all I can manage.

Okay this may be going too far.

Now this is more my speed. Skull One FTW!

Hot Time, Summer in the City

2011-07-27T22:20:00.004-05:00

In Chicago, it's been a million degrees for way too long. Okay, it's been in the 90's plus heat index in the hundreds (thanks humidity) for a LONG time. All of last week, which totally sucked. But it illuminated something to me, namely, while women can dress for summer in a way that is age appropriate - yet stylish, men, seem to have few options that really work.

Option A - dudes wear shorts, and look like they are 19 (if they are lucky). They can't go to work like that, and next to a woman in a nice ensemble (summer dress, skirt, tank top, shorts, etc), they look like a tool most of the time, or at the very least, lack comparable sophistication.

Option B - to hell with the weather, I'm wearing jeans! Sure, they still look cool, but encasing profuse sweat in denim isn't actually all that comfortable. Nevertheless I know tons of dudes who do this, refusing to wear shorts, for the reasons I list above (it should be noted that I, under exposure to heat, do not mind looking like a tool, so I am wearing shorts as I type this. Plus I have nice legs. Hey, don't look at me like that; knowing your strengths isn't arrogance when it's true).

Option C - Linen. Sure, you could look like a British colonial overlord. My friend Brian pulls that off, but it's not for everyone. It certainly doesn't work for me.

Why is it men are forced to sweat? How do you think, my good readers (all ten or so of you), men should dress in summer to avoid profuse sweating and yet dress like an adult?

Business Casual: Casually Stupid

2011-03-11T07:00:00.000-06:00

I am unsure how it got so popular. Apparently, over 40% of people who aren't self-employed exist in a "business casual" dress code environment (in the US and other White Collar western nations, anyway).

It is also not considered a uniform. This is news to me, because 90% of the people I see on the train look like some variation of this:

Or, this:
Khakis and collared shirts can be cool. But no one seems to want to try, it makes me sad.

Italian Beef, You Say?

2011-03-05T07:00:00.010-06:00

Wikipedia describes an Italian beef sandwich in the following manner:

"An Italian beef is a sandwich of thin slices of seasoned roast beef , dripping with meat juices, on a dense, long Italian-style roll, believed to have originated in Chicago, where its history dates back at least to the 1930s. The bread itself is often dipped (or double-dipped) into the juices the meat is cooked in, and the sandwich is typically topped off with Chicago-style giardiniera (called "hot") or sauteed, green Italian sweet peppers (called "sweet").

Italian beef sandwiches can be found at most hot dog stands and small Italian-American restaurants throughout the city of Chicago and its suburbs. They are difficult to find outside the Chicago metropolitan area. However, Chicago expatriates have opened restaurants across the country serving Italian beef, Chicago-style hot dogs, and other foods original to the Chicago area."

What this fails to mention is how incredibly awesome this sandwich is. Seriously, it's a death row meal. Unlike many other sandwiches the secret is it's simplicity. It doesn't require cheese, or any other condiment to make it tasty. The meat, the juice, the bread - it's enough. I prefer my sandwich with giardiniera, but I'll eat it plain, if it's a good sandwich. That's the other side of the knife edge; while a good beef is sublime, a bad one is horrendous. It's not like pizza or a burger, where even a bad one is edible. No, a bad Italian beef sandwich is an affront to the palate, a disgrace to tradition.

My personal favorites:

Al's Beef - This is tops on my list, just about. Great gravy, great thin giardiniera. Also makes great Italian sausage. But, one word of warning. Go to the original on Taylor, or the one on Ontario. Ignore the rest.
Johnnie's Beef - I can't believe they don't have a website. Great traditional style beef, with clear, gray-brown juice. And a phenomenal sausage; order the combo. Also, go when it's nice out, there isn't any indoor seating.
Joe Boston's Italian Beef - This one is a recent addition to my list. I had seen it for years, but never went in to try it, even though it was in my neighborhood. My mistake - while the fries are often lackluster, the beef itself is tasty, juicy and delicious.
Portillo's - It's tasty, delicious and everywhere. 'Nuff said.

Some people might ask, "Why isn't Mr Beef on your list?" I'll tell you. It's for tourists. It's tasty enough, but their giardiniera is totally week; it's celery in oil. Let Jay Leno have his Mr Beef. Any of the above options leave it in the dust.

And now, for some food porn:

Now - go get yourself a sandwich! "One beef, hot; dipped."

First Watch on the Moon

2011-03-02T07:00:00.006-06:00

As the years go by, and I edge, inexorably, towards forty years old (yikes!), I find myself attracted to all sorts of things that I never would have been attracted to in years past. Expensive watches seem to be the latest thing.

I love mechanical watches. There is just something about a device that requires no electrical power source to work. Poetry in the machine, I dunno.

Anyway, the Omega Speedmaster - that's what I want. It was worn during the first American spacewalk during Gemini 4 and was the first watch worn on the moon during Apollo 11. NASA was serious about making sure the watch could handle space. These are the conditions they subjected all the watches they tested to:

High temperature: 48 hours at 71° C followed by 30 minutes at 93° C
Low temperature: Four hours at -18° C
Temperature cycling in near-vacuum: Fifteen cycles of heating to 71° C for 45 minutes, followed by cooling to -18° C for 45 minutes at 10^-6 atm
Humidity: 250 hours at temperatures between 20° C and 71° C at relative humidity of 95%
Oxygen environment: 100% oxygen at 0.35 atm and 71° C for 48 hours
Shock: Six 11ms 40 G shocks from different directions
Linear acceleration: from 1 to 7.25G within 333 seconds
Low pressure: 90 minutes at 10^-6 atm at 71° C followed by 30 minutes at 93° C
High pressure: 1.6 atm for one hour
Vibration: three cycles of 30 minutes vibration varying from 5 to 2000hz with minimum 8.8G impulse
Acoustic noise: 30 minutes at 130db from 40 to 10,000hz

The evaluation concluded in March 1965 with the selection of the Speedmaster, which survived the tests while remaining largely within 5 seconds per day rate.

I'm pretty sure the watch could handle whatever mundane nonsense I could throw at it. I mean, it could handle this:

I know there are other watches that get more notice these days - James Bond's Rolex Submariner leaps to mind, but for me, the Speedmaster is it.

The Monroe Building

2011-02-25T07:00:00.000-06:00

Built in 1912 and designed by Holabird and Roche, the Monroe Building (center) is a beautiful example of early skyscraper design. Here is a picture of it today (or nearly so):

The best part? I spend all day in it, every day of the week, working, looking across at the Bean and the Art Institute of Chicago.

Life is grand.

New Job, New Experiences

2011-02-24T07:00:00.001-06:00

It should be obvious to anyone who has ever taken a look at my blog that I have been reticent, to put it mildly, to update my blog. Thirteen months is inexcusable, and for that I apologize. In the long months since I've last posted a thing, I've:

- Gotten married. Pretty rad

- Gotten a cat (Templeton) and a dog (Rye). Those astute few will quickly realized, yes, we named our pets after liquor.

- Recently got a new job. I no longer work for the advertising dollar. Instead, I've moved on, to a (I hope) higher calling. I work for the Pritzker Military Library. If you have a passing familiarity with my interests, you'll quickly realize working at the library is a great chance to do something very personally rewarding.

-I've also continued my Kuma's habit (my last blog post 13 months ago). It had started long before my last post, and it continues still. My current favorite burger? The Absu.

Don't worry - I still enjoy clothes and what have you, and should have some content and (hopefully) photos soon.

Thanks for standing by!

High on Fire - Not Just for Ears Anymore!

2010-01-12T07:00:00.005-06:00

My friends, if they read my blog, will probably roll their eyes as soon as they realize I'm writing a blog entry about Kuma's Corner. I can understand that reaction. As it's been written up by GQ, Playboy, Time Out, Check Please!, I'm hardly breaking new ground. There is probably little I can add to the masses of letters in print and digital form that have been spoken about Kuma's.

But I don't care. I love the place.

If you go, no matter what time, you should expect to wait. And wait. And wait some more. The kitchen is small; your clothes will smell of meat. You will have heard more doom metal than you ever thought you'd listen to at a restaurant. And as the wait will take at least an hour, sometimes two hours, you will probably be much drunker than you expected by the time you sit down. With a nice beer list of some offbeat and enjoyable beers, as well as whiskey on tap, getting more inebriated than you expect is a treat - if you like whiskey or beer. If not, waiting can be a chore.

After finally being seated; face flush with alcohol, cheeks red, ears humming with tinnitus (okay, not really, it's not that loud, but you get the idea), you're faced with a menu. Over 20 burgers, with names like Dark Throne, Motorhead, Pantera, Mastodon flash before your eyes. Do I want a burger with bourbon soaked pears? Chipotle peppers and goat cheese? Ranchero sauce and tortilla strips? The choices are dizzying. One of my favorites is the High on Fire. A 10 oz patty atop a pretzel roll. Topping it are: Siracha hot chili sauce, a slice of prosciutto, a roasted red pepper, grilled pineapple and sweet chili paste. No cheese; I don't think it needs it, although my wife to be disagrees with that. I think all women believe cheese makes anything better.

High on Fire:

Bay Area metal band High on Fire inspired the luscious burger above. Check out the video for "Rumors of War" from Death is This Communion, their fourth record. Like the burger, it's loud, awesome...and no cheese.

A Gift for the Whole Year

2010-01-07T07:00:00.000-06:00

My soon to be brother-in-law and I share a common interest: whiskey. Whenever we visit my fiance's family in Ohio, her brother and I often wind up, at least one night, drinking too much whiskey, though I pay for it the next day, hungover. Nine out of ten times, it's bourbon. Earlier this past year, he and his wife went to the Buffalo Trace Distillery. It was while he was there that he decided to get us a tremendous bourbon they make release only once a year. Part of their "antique collection", George T. Stagg is an uncut, unfiltered barrel proof bourbon. At 141.4 proof, the bottle they got us is from the 2009 release. Despite being over 70% alcohol, it really has a bourbon taste - sweetness, fruit, vanilla - alcohol (duh!). And yeah, it burns, but not as much as you'd expect. I drink it with an ice cube, and slowly. Not a whiskey to drink a lot of, or quickly, it's a great treat that I'll come back to throughout the year to enjoy. If you like bourbon, and you can locate a bottle, I highly recommend getting yourself one.

New Years Evolution: Chicago in Photos

2010-01-04T07:00:00.011-06:00

With the turning of the year, and my interest in history, I naturally think about the passage of time, and the changing of things. Time marches on, and though day to day life seems the same, that is just an illusion.

Located as I am in Chicago, I'm always interested in looking back and buildings and places that are familiar to me, yet viewed in the past, somehow out of context. Fortunately, the fine collection of Charles Weever Cushman's Kodachrome slides at Indiana University is available to peruse online. I've often viewed it, looking at great scans of his shots; Kodachrome is truly vivid and wonderful in it's presentation of color. I've taken some of my favorite shots from his collections - all taken from 1941 through 1944, and paired them up with contemporary shots of the same locations. Human beings cannot experience geologic time, but with photography like this can serve as a metaphor - how something as seemingly timeless as a cityscape, can, in the span of a human life, change profoundly.

Thanks for a Good Year

2009-12-29T14:34:00.002-06:00

With 2009 nearly over, I just wanted to post a quick note thanking all my readers. After spending the holidays with the family, I'm ready to start the new year with fresh material for my blog which is, as ever, a work in progress. Look out for a fresh post with new content January 4th, 2010.

Thanks for stopping by.

Gift Wishlist #3 - Mills Canvas Bags

2009-12-22T07:00:00.009-06:00

Wm. J. Mills & Co. have quietly been making top quality canvas goods since the late 19th century. Based in Greenport, New York, they started out as sailmakers first and foremost. Today, sails comprise but a small portion of their business. What they make primarily now, is great items out of Whaler Canvas.

I have a small travel duffel in the red above; well, it's burgundy, to be specific. Made of their Sunmbrella marine canvas, it's a great useful bag for long weekend trips, or trips to gym, or...whatever. Pick one up and support a company that has 120 years of practice in making excellent gear.

Three Days of the Condor

2009-12-17T07:00:00.004-06:00

When I think of 1975, let me tell you what I don't think about. Style. It's my opinion that, by and large, the mid to late 1970's, and well, much of the 1980's - well that was the time that style died. I know not everyone feels that way, but there's very little to like. So I was pleasantly surprised when I watched Three Days of the Condor.

Robert Redford looks pretty damn cool in it. Sure his blond hair is very 70's, but the outfit could easily be slightly updated today and still look great.

One thing immediately apparent when watching the movie; they just don't shoot a film this way anymore. Plenty of long shots, camera angles held for what seems to the modern attention span a long time, it's a different experience than a modern cut and jump film scene. But it manages to hold your attention. The long scenes with a static camera angle develop nicely, the scenery around the actors looms larger.

Oh yeah, and it has Max Von Sydow in it. Enough said.

Gift Wish List #2 - The Hill-Side

2009-12-14T07:00:00.003-06:00

With the Holidays right around the corner, everyone needs to start thinking about dressing their holiday best. I'm not talking awful sweaters with dreadful patterns; though I have been to an ironic terrible sweater holiday party or two in my day. I'm talking about busting out a nice outfit for a holiday dinner. And every man looks good (at least to Mom) in a tie.

And what do I want for Christmas? A tie, but not strictly speaking, a traditional tie. I want a tie made by the Hill-Side. While they are not a traditional looking tie, they have character by the bucket load. These aren't your usual silk or wool neckties. Made from interesting unique fabrics like selvage chambray from Japan or waxed canvas or selvage chino twill, they immediately stand out, stand above the usual tie. And I can't wait to get one. Or two. Or three.

Wish List Gift #1 - Iron Ranger Boots

2009-12-10T07:00:00.009-06:00

With the Holidays upon us, I thought I'd share some of what I hope someone is buying me for Christmas, Hanukkah or whatever. Simply for being me.

Red Wing Iron Ranger Boots -

I love these boots. Similar to the Russet Service shoe worn early in World War 2. The Iron Ranger has a cap toe much like it, but with speed laces, which I appreciate. Originally sold by Red Wing in 1953, the Iron Rangers are a welcome re-issue to their line up. The cap toe, and variety of leathers to chose from, makes picking up a pair of these an easy decision. Check 'em out below:

And here's this years limited model, for J. Crew:

Here's a picture of the Russet Service Shoe, which the Iron Ranger looks much like (Different sole):

Taking Inventory

2009-12-07T07:00:00.003-06:00

Previously an online only publication, Inventory Magazine released it's inaugural issue. The magazine is the literal manifestation of the vision of it's creative director, Ryan Willms. I was an avid reader of his first online offering, h(y)r collective, an online only men's magazine. The content was a great mix of reviews, music, and menswear, from a very American point of view. Which, I have to admit, is ironic given it's headquartered in Vancouver. So, let's say a North American point of view. H(y)r collective first morphed into Inventory online, and then finally the print edition which was just released. And it's off with a bang, with Interviews with Christophe Loiron, founder of Mister Freedom, Yuki Matsuda, from Yuketen.

One of the things that immediately impressed me with the magazine was the quality of the paper it was printed on - thick, textured flat paper which holds the ink for each line of text, each great photograph beautifully. The magazine is light on advertising, and heavy on content and presentation. It's full of good content with in-depth interviews and stuffed with beautiful images. Leave it on your coffee table and it's a focal point of conversation.

Not only does Inventory have a point of view, they are willing to put their money where their mouth is, with an online shop full of clothing picks, selected items which showcase their editorial aesthetic.

Order a copy today, you won't be disappointed.

http://inventorymagazine.com

Context IN the Press

2009-12-03T07:30:00.001-06:00

A short and simple post today: Context is in the news. The store launched in 2005, and it's great to see it getting national attention. In the December 2009 issue of GQ, in their "Best Stuff 2009" feature their Alden collaboration Roy Boots made the list. Check them out:

These shoes are on their third pre-order, and this was before the national exposure.

Context was also featured in the December/January issue of Monocle; a magazine I've just discovered, and can't say enough good things about. Good journalism, a nice blend of content, and a great layout. Check out the "Local Heroes" on page 154. Hopefully this is just a sign of things to come.

Selvage on the Cheap

2009-11-30T07:30:00.003-06:00

Many of us who enjoy looking under every rock for the "perfect" pair of jeans know the special torture that comes from having to decide what pair have fallen from grace to chore status. I am bad at those decisions, personally. I seemingly cannot consign hard worn jeans to yard, painting, or moving duty.

Instead, my solution has been to look around for "cheap" selvage jeans. I was able grab a pair of these - GAP Selvage Authentic fit jeans. At $88 - I got them for $66, on sale - I don't care if they get destroyed from painting, moving, car repairs, what have you. Here are some pictures direct from the GAP's website. They look bootcut in these pictures, but they aren't. They are a straight cut, which fit me fairly slim in the leg all the way down. I am not built like the model, so as they say, "your mileage may vary".

They've only been rinsed, so I can wear them and personalize them over time like I would other raw denim (because I always do a soak first to get the shrinking over with first anyway). Mind you, there are details I don't love on them - the slanted side belt loops are gimmicky, and the coin pocket is mounted too high - it sits behind any belt you wear. But they are comfortable, fit me well, and I won't be worried about them doing messy stuff around the house, and that's all I ask of them.

Thank you for standing by

2009-09-13T22:29:00.003-05:00

Sorry I haven't posted in a month, but the world outside my computer demanded attention - moving. But now that's all behind me, so coming soon - new posts!

Ryan in Context

2009-08-17T07:00:00.018-05:00

I recently had the opportunity to ask Ryan Huber, co-founder of Madison's Context a few questions. In my opinion, Context is one of the best men's shops in the United States. Few stores have such a breadth of high quality menswear and accessories. Read below to find out what makes Ryan, and Context, tick.

Q: Let’s start with the inevitable, obvious question: I’ve found that most store owners arrived where they are largely by accident. How did you and Sam get to where you are now? What was the inspiration for Context?

Ryan: I would not say Context was an accident, but I can say that we had no prior experience in retail. The business plan was one of a few. Sam and I also thought about opening a neighborhood bar/restaurant that would have looked a lot like our clothing shop-- very masculine with the staff wearing heritage lines. When we opened Context, there were no dry denim specialty shops in the US, or at least none that were openly available to the public. I wanted to put a shop together that felt more like something you'd find in Japan than the US.

Q: Where do you see the store in 5 years?

Ryan: The shop progress is based largely on success shared with our vendors. For example, we meet with Apolis, Gitman, KMW, Alden, The Hill-Side, Nudie, et. al to discuss what works and what we'd like to see them do. They trust us, we know our clients very well.

Q: Has the current economic climate affected plans for the store? Has it limited in any way the addition of new lines to the stores repertoire?

Ryan: I see no indication of us slowing down. I work hard and plan on keeping things rolling. We buy what we like, and we get behind it 100%.

Q: How can you separate what you like from what is “right” for the store?

Ryan: There is very little in the store that I would not wear. I own one of the APC jumpsuits we had last season-- not for everyone. There are pieces in each collection that we do not choose. Most of it is based on how it will appear in the shop. My goal is to create a unique experience within the shop. I want people to remember their trip to Context. The only way to be effective is to have a distinct focus. Otherwise you are like all the rest.

Q: As a follow up to the above question, do you have a process for determining what particular clothing lines you’d like to add to the store, or is it unstructured?

Ryan: You have to have a level of confidence in your shop and yourself to pick up certain lines. Getting behind a collection means presenting it to your clients in a manner that matches the designer's intentions. I spend a lot of time thinking through how our lines will be shown online and in the shop. I'd say we have cultivated a fascination for authentic fabrics among our clients. Quality production is also an attraction. Our guys won't buy it if it feels cheap or if it reeks of trend. I pay little attention to which lines are receiving press. Press awareness comes after we pick up a line. We are quite often the first to buy our lines (e.g. Apolis Activism, Imperial, The Hill-Side). I like launching collections.

Q: Self Edge and Blue in Green are comparatively more Japan-heavy, carrying several Japan lines each (Samurai, Flathead, Iron Heart, SDA and so on), whereas your lines seem to be from everywhere. Sure, Kicking Mule is Japanese denim, but you carry ALD and Nudie, Apolis Activism and so on. Do you think that the Context consumer is different from a consumer at Self Edge or BiG?

Ryan: I've been to Blue in Green and Gordon runs an amazing shop. His focus is very different than ours, but we share a fascination and love for what we sell. There is nothing traditional about our shops. Landing Momotaro or Somet is not easy and we don't make big bucks selling them. We carry these lines because they are some of the best. Gordon is very denim heavy because he can be, he has stuff no one else has. Our location allows us to carry nearly anything we want-- there are no shops like ours in the Midwest. Gordon would have a hard time carrying say APC, Engineered Garments, and Band of Outsiders because others in Soho do. I can say with confidence that he would not want those lines anyway, they don't fit his shop.

Q: Do regional differences play a part in determining which lines you carry? I.e – Midwest versus left or right coasts.

Ryan: Our location plays less a role in determining the lines we carry than most people would think. There are people all over the world who respond to what we carry, Midwesterners are no exception. Sam and I have brought some pretty unique lines to the US market... we are both native Wisco boys.

Q: Do you feel any pressure to seek out American companies for your store? I notice you have quite a few – Russell Moccasin, Alden, Gitman Bros, for instance.

Ryan: If everything in the shop was American made, I'd be very happy. I'm not saying American made is always the best, but it does make things easier from a business standpoint. I can visit the Gitman factory, the Alden factory and discuss collaborations. A visit to Japan is not out of the question, just much more difficult. We will never fall out of love with Japanese production, their dyeing and weaving techniques are exceptional.

Q: Name a designer or clothing line that you do not carry, but that is one you really like. Who “gets it”?

Ryan: A friend of ours opened a shop in Atalanta called Sid Mashburn. Sid has amazing style and is an encyclopedia of apparel knowledge. His shop is Southern Gentleman, but has a very distinct personality. He has a list of amazing lines that just wouldn't work in our shop, but each is spot on.

Q: Last question – if you could only have one of the items you sell. What would it be?

Ryan: This is an insane question, like choosing which child you love most.

Thanks to Ryan, for taking the time to answer my questions.

M-422a - The Jacket that started it all for me

2009-08-13T07:00:00.004-05:00

In the winter of 2001, a strange compulsion washed over me. Though I had always been interested in World War 2 aviation and planes in general, I had never sought out a flight jacket. Sure, I had owned "bomber" jackets; mostly hand-me-down leather jackets from my Dad which were too big on me, but nothing authentic by any means.

As this interest took shape, I began reading everything I could get my hands on about World War 2 fliers, and despite my own Grandfather's affiliation with the Army Air Force as a B-24 Co-Pilot, I became fascinated with the Flying Tigers, who it just so happened, mostly wore naval flight gear. The Naval Flight jacket, called the M-422 at first, then the M-422a and finally the G-1 is largely unchanged in design since it's inception at the beginning of Naval aviation in the 20th century. When I became convinced I needed a M-422a, I contacted Mark Weinshenker of the Acme Depot, a repository for all things A-2 flight jacket in those early years. As his main love was the A-2 flight jacket (the leather flight jacket that the Army Air Force wore during World War 2), he directed me to John Chapman, who is now the proprietor of the Goodwear Leather Coat Company (more on him in future posts). John was quite eager to nerd out on all details of flight jackets; my obsession had found a like minded friend.

After much discussion, I settled on a reproduction M-422a from the Real McCoy's New Zealand. Working with Real McCoy's on all the details regarding the sizing of the coat, my money was sent, and so began...the wait. It may have taken a month to arrive, newly constructed, from Christchurch, NZ, but in the years since, I don't think of that, I think of the years of service it's provided as jacket, pillow, iPod and cell phone holder and blanket. Over the course of the years I've sold it off, and bought it back - interestingly enough to John Chapman - but the effect owning it has had on me is immense. I probably wouldn't have gotten denim obsessed without this jacket (the two worlds have a great deal of overlap in terms of fans).

The photos below show the jacket in it's current state, note the quality of the leather and the well-worn knit cuffs.

1980, In Review

2009-08-08T11:27:00.016-05:00

For the fourth of July weekend this year, some friends and I rented a cabin in the woods in Wisconsin. The route to the cabin just happened, with only a 5 minute detour, to run right by Madison, where I could visit Context, one of the few places anywhere near Chicago that I could look at a variety of Japanese denim and other denim nerdery in person. Stopping in the store, my fiancee and I did the usual tour of the premises, and and thanks to the great crew at Context, spent too much. I walked out, in particular, with a pair of Kicking Mule Workshop jeans, the 1980 Japanese Edition model. Described, quite aptly I think, on Context's website as "a jean for the refined denim enthusiast. Each step in the production was chosen on the basis of supreme quality. Made of Zimbabwean cotton, rope dyed in Natural Indigo, fabric produced and tailored in Okayama Prefecture Japan. The 1980 is a straight leg jean proportionally cut for a number of different body types.", I was very pleased with my jeans. I've been wearing them since mid July, and I figure, sometime this winter, they might be ready for their first wash. Bring on the fades! I've had my hands on many a pair of Japanese jeans, and the feel and finish of these jeans in particular is really a cut above to me.

While looking through the pictures below, make sure to keep an eye out for these features:

Red & Blue selvage line

Selvage Coin Pocket

Back pocket Hidden Rivets

Doughnut Button fly

Real Leather Patch

Diamond Dave!

2009-08-03T07:00:00.001-05:00

No, not that Diamond Dave; no early Van Halen here (although that would be fine with me, 1984 and earlier Van Halen are a good time). I'm talking about Dave, the president of Diamond Cap Company. If you are in the market for a "crusher" - a stunning reproduction of the caps pilots wore during World War 2 - look no further than the Diamond Cap Co.

Another World War 2 era item that Dave makes is reproductions of 1940's style Army Air Force t-shirts, often worn during physical training. Similar styled shirts can be seen in the first episode of Band of Brothers, when the paratroopers are in training running up Currahee. Dave's t-shirts are made on "American made and 100% "ring-spun" cotton, by a USA company that specializes in Wholesale manufacturing." - as you can see from the pictures below, the shirts used are American Apparel, which when laundered have a very vintage, trim shape, much like the original t-shirts. Also, the ink is direct printed to the shirt, not screened on, so as the shirt ages, the images age much like originals. All Dave needs to know is what field you want, and where it was (here is a good website that shows the locations of WW2 era fields. I chose to have the standard winged prop as with my Grandfather's advanced training field. Dave can also print front and back, so on the back is my Grandfather's name, serial number and flight school class. Enough talk; it's time to let the pictures do the talking:

Detail Shots of the direct printed ink:

Another item Dave is developing is a "Wild Ones" cap for motorcycle fans, or just fans of Marlon Brando. They're being worked up in black and taupe, and others colors later. Check out the photos below:

Anyone interested in any of the goodies above should reach out to Dave at info@diamondcapco.com.