ELLE News Blog

FIT Celebrates the Substance of Style

ELLE.com — Sun, 05 Jul 2009 14:00:00 -0400

"Fashion and Politics," a new exhibit opening July 7 at the Museum at FIT, illustrates the interplay of fashion trends and political movements with more than 100 costumes and accessories. Curator Jennifer Farley says its organizers approached the topic with a broad scope: “We looked at politics not only in terms of the sartorial choices of politicians and election fashions, but also as encompassing cultural change, sexual codes, and social progress.” While Farley says the project was initially inspired by a renewed enthusiasm for politics during the 2008 election, many of the featured items date well before the fashion press was breathlessly chronicling Michelle Obama’s every move (though two of first lady’s lauded looks—by Jason Wu and Thakoon—are indeed on display). Organized chronologically, the show begins in the 19th century with a pair of patriotic pieces: an 1889 costume bearing an American Flag motif and Catherine Malandrino’s Flag Dress, which debuted in 2001 after 9-11, and was recently reissued in response to last fall’s Presidential campaign. For a rundown of some the exhibit’s most compelling pieces, we talked to Farley and co-curator Melissa Marra.

—Erin Clements

American Flag costume, printed cotton, circa 1889, USA

“Flag costumes were commonly worn to parades and pageants during the 19th century,” says Marra. “They were intended to promote a sense of national identity and patriotism.”

Liberty of London, dress, brown silk velvet, circa 1910, England

“Liberty of London was associated with the ‘Aesthetic’ dress movement in the late 19th century and specialized in healthy, comfortable fashion for women,” says Marra. “Their clothing was desired by artists, intellectuals, and bohemians well into the 20th century. They offered another option to the Victorian fashions of the period, which were much more restrictive.”

LaValle shoes, red, white, and blue leather, metal star studs, 1938 – 1942, USA

“These go back to that very clear expression of patriotism and nationalism during World War II, at a time when the country was so unified in the war effort,” says Farley.

Mainbocher for United States Navy, W.A.V.E.S. uniform, navy blue wool, 1942

“This is during World War II and women are enlisting in female divisions of the armed forces, like the W.A.V.E.S. division of the Navy, and getting to wear uniforms designed by the American-born couturier Mainbocher,” says Farley. “Mainbocher had been based in Paris until the war and had just come back to America. It was just sort of a bonus for these women who were serving their country, contributing to the war effort, to get to wear the very best.”

Dress, white cotton with red “IKE” print, circa 1956

“The ‘Ike’ dress was worn in support of Dwight Eisenhower’s election campaign,” says Farley. “It’s just this wearable campaign poster with his nickname splashed all over it. In our research, we found information in the New York Times about the variety of fashions associated with his re-election campaign—raincoats, jewelry, stockings—and we’re very lucky that we have this example.”

Rudi Gernreich, “Monokini” topless bathing suit, yellow and white wool, 1964

“The monokini was introduced in 1964 by Rudi Gernreich; basically it’s a topless swimsuit,” says Marra.” It was very shocking when it first was introduced and it instantly became a symbol of the ’60s sexual revolution. It was actually banned by the pope. This swimsuit earned Gernreich a reputation as a social commentator because it was his vision of a strong, uninhibited modern woman.”

Left: Mars of Asheville, dress, light brown paper printed with red “NIXON” and navy stars, 1967 – 1968. Right: James Sterling, dress, paper printed with image of Hubert Humphrey, 1968

“During the 1960s, paper dresses were in really high demand,” says Marra. They became valuable promotional tools for everything from political agendas to Pop art.”

Vivienne Tam, suit, black and white polyester in checkerboard pattern of “Mao” portraits, 1995

“In this suit, Tam uses propaganda images of the Chinese leader Mao Zedong in an unconventional way to challenge the image of power,” says Farley. “She has said that the black-and-white design was meant to represent both the positive and negative effects that he’d had on Chinese culture.”

Stephen Sprouse for Knoll Textiles, Graffiti Camo in green and brown with Declaration of Independence in orange, 2004

“Sprouse is alluding to the complex relationship between the government and military,” says Marra of the punk designer’s subversive tribute to the Declaration of Independence, which features a bright orange graffiti overlay on a camouflage background.

Photos: Irving Solero, © The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology

Fourth of July Red Lips

ELLE.com — Sat, 04 Jul 2009 13:35:07 -0400

I tend to shy away from a bright red pucker, but with July 4 here I’m thinking of being festive. The only thing about red lipstick that I hate, however, is that more often or not it fades, rubs off, or feathers to a less impressive pink. Enter L’Oréal Infallible Never Fail Lipcolour in Target Red. After applying the stain-like lip lacquer you simply wait a moment (patience, ladies!), brush the shiny top coat over your pout, and voila! You’ll have bold red lips for the entire night. Seriously! This stuff only comes off when touched with an oil-based makeup remover like Vaseline, which is why I’ll be sporting it well into the wee hours of the morning…

—Emily Hebert, Associate Beauty Editor at ELLE.com

Photo: Courtesy of Target

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Street Chic Homme

ELLE.com — Sat, 04 Jul 2009 07:00:00 -0400

Faded denim keeps the focus on his whimsical graphic tee

Photo: Anne Ziegler

Think you are Street Chic? E-mail us your photo and you could appear in ELLE.com's Street Chic Daily.

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Michael Kors Peep-Toe Heels

ELLE.com — Fri, 03 Jul 2009 12:00:00 -0400

Lauren Tousignant, Accessories Intern, in Michael Kors peep-toe heels

Photo: Kelly Stuart

Click here for more Michael Kors

Get Your Glow On, Sans Self-Tanner

ELLE.com — Fri, 03 Jul 2009 09:00:00 -0400

I’ve never really mastered the art of applying fake tanners. I’ve tried department store brands and drugstore labels, buildable formulas and one-shot deals; creams, sprays, and one especially confounding cream-spray combo. Yet I always, without fail, end up with streaky shins, spotty ankles, and weird, diseased-looking feet. This summer, I’m sticking with Murad Firming Bronzer. I don’t know about the firming part, and I’ve never been big on the idea of “body makeup” (it always sounds a little Cirque du Soleil to me) but I can tell you this: this lightweight cream leaves a sheer terracotta sheen that dries quickly, doesn’t feel tacky, and never seems to slide off onto my clothes. Instant sun-kissed gratification, without the mysterious Cheetos scent of a self-tanner. Need I say more?

—Maggie Bullock, Senior Writer at ELLE magazine

Photo: Courtesy of Murad

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Street Chic: New York

ELLE.com — Fri, 03 Jul 2009 07:00:00 -0400

An expertly draped top meets its match in chic cropped pants

Photo: Kelly Stuart

Think you are Street Chic? E-mail us your photo and you could appear in ELLE.com's Street Chic Daily.

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Brighter Skin Challenge, Day 9

ELLE.com — Thu, 02 Jul 2009 15:57:45 -0400

Today's challenge was easy! If there’s one thing I can do, it’s go for the gold. I’m obsessed with metallic, golden shades that enhance my eyes—and I’m all about shimmery, gold-flecked blush. I usually lay off the bronzer, but today I added a touch to my cheeks and around the perimeter of my face. Here’s a pic of the finished look… My camera isn’t the best, but you can get a feel for things, at least. Hopefully the next face-brightening tip is as simple as today’s! Fingers crossed...

—Emily Hebert

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Versace Launches Art Unites

ELLE.com — Thu, 02 Jul 2009 15:47:07 -0400

Yesterday, Donatella Versace hosted an afternoon of art-making to celebrate the start of Art Unites, a new program created in collaboration with the Whitney Museum of American Art’s education department. Kids with serious illnesses from the New York chapter of the Starlight Children’s Foundation gathered at the museum to produce colorful interpretations of the idea of friendship; their drawings will subsequently be emblazoned on Versace tote bags, which will be available at Versace boutiques and through ecommerce site Gilt (100 percent of proceeds will go to charity).

—Erin Clements

Photos: Kelly Stuart

Roger Vivier Sandals

ELLE.com — Thu, 02 Jul 2009 15:12:24 -0400

Ellyn Chestnut, Accessories Director, in Roger Vivier sandals

Photo: Kelly Stuart

Fashion From Far Away

ELLE.com — Thu, 02 Jul 2009 15:03:50 -0400

I love to get decked out. Give me any reason to don a little Lanvin or a piece of Prada, and this girl is in heaven. But there’s another fashionable side to me, one that doesn’t get out so much—the side that pays homage to my South Asian heritage and loves, loves, loves to wear traditional clothes of the Indian subcontinent. Wrap me up in a sari for a black tie affair and call it done.

The occasion this time: my younger sister, Saira, was getting married in an over-the-top ceremony in the City, and the weekend affair (short by South Asian standards) called for all sorts of sub-continental regalia—think jewels and silks—maharajah style all the way.

Like any fashion, the clothing of South Asia is evolving, and traditional clothes aren’t so traditional anymore. The old-school techniques are dying in favor of new methods of mass production. While the traditional methods should definitely preserved, I have to say, the new methods appeal to my sense of contemporary fashion.

I had no idea where to even start to buy the clothes I needed in London, so I contacted one of my friends, who’s a Londoner of Pakistani decent, and she had this to say, “There is a woman called Zainab Alam who sells Indian couture from her house in North London - this is where me and my friends go for good stuff.”

And good stuff she had. I was only meant to buy one piece and walked away with three (yikes!)—the temptation was just far too much to bear.

The orange outfit, by designer Rina Dhaka, is a variation of a traditional salwar kameez, a two-piece set that consists of a long tunic over a pair of pants paired with a coordinating scarf. The one I am wearing is contemporary in that the top is more of a dress rather than a tunic, but still paired with traditional skinny, cigarette pants called churidar (yes, we have been doing cigarette pants for centuries.)

And the sari- oh my goodness, do I love this sari. It was so delicate, in the palest shade of powder pink, and the embroidery and pearl and rhinestone detail amped the pretty factor tenfold. Rather than wearing a traditional blouse piece underneath, the designer, Tarun Tahiliani (who has dressed superstars like Liz Hurley and Aishwarya Rai in his wares) paired it with a silk corset. I felt princess-like all night.

It was a fun affair and I can’t wait for the chance to do it up like that again soon! I want to hear, though, what are some of your more eclectic fashion faves?

—Rebecca Suhrawardi Austin

Photo: Me in two looks from my sister's wedding

ELLE's Office Best

ELLE.com — Thu, 02 Jul 2009 13:20:33 -0400

Before I head out to my favorite place to celebrate my favorite holiday, it occurred to me I hadn’t written up one of my “Office Best” features in several weeks. Shame on me!

Warmer temperatures and bidding adieu to the second rainiest June in New York City’s history are definitely perking up the spirits (and styles) of the recently September-issue-consumed ELLE staff.

Today, we’ve got a mixed bag of Summer sweetness, and as you can see below, a sizable dose of the season’s more aggressive side as well. Have a safe and lovely holiday with your friends and families, and I’ll see you back here next week!

Enjoy!

Finally, Rihanna gets a girl her dress back!
(Gorilla dress, Christopher Kane)

Foxy up front, all-purpose in the back: the designer shoe every woman can love.
(Lace-up sandals, Ann Demeulemeester)

Prince Ali! Fabulous he! Ali Ababwa! Genuflect, show some respect, down on one knee…seriously, we should all show some respect for a woman who not just attempts but actually pulls off the denim harem pant.
(Denim harem pants, Mango)

Despite what you see on reality TV, the mandal (i.e., man + sandal), if encasing a well-exfoliated foot, can very much be office-appropriate.
(Sandals, Phillip Lim for Birkenstock)

This dress. Must have this dress. These shoes. Must have these shoes. Total cost is under $100? Must take this woman shopping with me next weekend.
(Dress, H&M; heels, Payless)

This blouse makes me want to be taking a stroll along Main Street in East Hampton. To Scoop du Jour. For a double serving of cake batter ice cream with marshmallow crème and rainbow jimmies. Wait, what were talking about? Oh right, the blouse. Love it.
(Blouse, BCBG Max Azria)

Thrown together accessorizing never works this well for me. Hmpf.
(Cocktail ring, vintage)

I told you the early ‘90s were back. The West Beverly girl gets modern with a ruffled, fuchsia slip dress and a simple but statement-making gold watch.
(Denim jacket, True Religion)

Men have fewer options than in warmer weather, right? Well, let me get you in touch with this accessories editor, because I think he may have a different opinion.
(Sleeveless top, Balenciaga; shorts, Japanese boutique label; shoes, Gucci)

Fragrance Favorite: Bond No. 9

ELLE.com — Thu, 02 Jul 2009 09:00:00 -0400

When I moved apartments recently, one of my many trash bags of belongings (so chic, I know) mysteriously disappeared. Much to my dismay it was the bag of bags—Goodbye Marc Jacobs and Prada. All I could think, though, was thank god that all the perfume made it (and one Miu Miu I had stashed somewhere else). I’ve never had a signature scent. Rather, I become obsessed with multiple perfumes at a time. To me, there is nothing more powerful. They are like time capsules, windows that I can always peek through to older versions of myself: the zesty, floral Chanel Chance may symbolize a relationship gone sour, but the juice itself is still lovely. And if that scent goes in the section marked Jaded, then Bond No. 9 Fashion Avenue, although recently acquired, is the lone representative for the Age of Innocence. I’m convinced my mother must have used some sort of mimosa (the perfume’s main note) shampoo or soap when I was a baby because when I spray it I want to bathe in it, wrap myself in a blanket, and stay in my apartment all day smiling. Downside? I do go a little crazy for it, but I’ve done that over people, places, and things that smell much less amazing.

—Maura Lynch, Associate Beauty Editor at ELLE magazine

Photo: Courtesy of Bond Street

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Cheap & Chic: J. Crew Bikinis

ELLE.com — Thu, 02 Jul 2009 08:55:00 -0400

There’s something refreshingly sexy, and totally original, about creating your own beach-chic bikini, à la Jennifer Aniston (I can’t think of anyone who looks quite as comfortable half-naked as she does). For as long as I can remember, J.Crew has been offering a lovely mix of flattering silhouettes in pretty colors (I purchased my first one through the catalogue in sixth grade). Now that summer’s in full swing, the brand’s huge selection of swimwear is on sale, with tops and bottoms starting at $9.99. Click here to build your own bikini for under $20.

Top row, left to right: navy cinched halter with bright berry wide band hipster; oasis green glamour top with navy braided string hipster

Bottom row, left to right: dark peony halter with navy dot wide-band hipster; tawny olive pleated string top with regal purple enamal-link hipster

—Violet Moon Gaynor

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Street Chic: New York

ELLE.com — Thu, 02 Jul 2009 07:00:00 -0400

A sinuous white print gives her pink paisley frock a double dose of style

Photo: Kelly Stuart

Think you are Street Chic? E-mail us your photo and you could appear in ELLE.com's Street Chic Daily.

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Aldo Studded Sandals

ELLE.com — Wed, 01 Jul 2009 15:11:42 -0400

Kelly Stuart, ELLE.com Photo Director, in Aldo studded sandals

Photo: Kelly Stuart