Fallowing is an ancient technique of letting farmland or gardens rest by not planting anything for a season or longer. Fallow soil or land is allowing the ground to rest and regenerate. In some cases, it can allow potassium and phosphorous deep in the soil to rise to the soil surface where it will benefit future crops. In addition to these, carbon, nitrogen and organic matter levels improved as did moisture-holding capacity. Even beneficial microorganisms were shown to increase. Fallowing can also break the weed/pest and disease cycles by removing host plants for a season. That sounded good to me and my situation.

During my research I also used AI (artificial intelligence) and found similar but more concise information including a chart that credited the U.S. Department of Agriculture, Texas A&M AgriLife Extension and the Ohio University Extension. The chart showed quick-start rotation tips with examples of crops to rotate and when.

However, my research also enlightened me to the fact that just leaving the soil without any form of intervention was not necessarily the right thing to do. Most of the articles I read indicated that fallowing should be used in conjunction with crop rotation and/or cover crops. Most people are familiar with crop rotation, which means following the practice of growing different types or families of crops in the same area over several years or seasons. Rather than planting the same crop again in the same plot, gardeners and farmers alternate crops using a planned schedule. Cover crops or green manure are plants that are grown in order to protect and improve the soil rather than be harvested for food or profit. These are planted during off-seasons or between regular plantings to prevent erosion, suppress weeds and add nutrients back into the soil. Some examples of cover crops are clover, crimson clover, winter rye and hairy vetch. But you can also grow other cover crops based on the season you employ that practice. For example, sunflowers can be planted in the summer months for the same optimal results.

In conclusion, fallowing, crop rotation and cover crops are all forms of helping our soil maintain optimal growing conditions especially when used together. Hopefully by using these methods in my vegetable garden this year, I will see a decrease in those undesirable weeds I’ve been battling for the past several years and give my soil a period for rest and rejuvenation!  Please refer to the articles mentioned below to learn more about these options for your gardening experience.

by Beth Norris, ECMG

Sources

Darcy Larum. (March 4, 2021.) Gardening Know How  What Is Fallowing – Is Fallowing Good And Should You Let A Field Lie Fallow | Gardening Know How[TCB2]  

Science Insights. (March 13, 2026.) What Is Fallowing and What Does It Do for Soil? – ScienceInsights[TCB3] 

Live to Plant. (July 12, 2025.) Fallowing Methods for Small-Scale Home Gardens | Live to Plant[TCB4] 

 [TCB4]For layout, in case the URL is needed. https://livetoplant.com/fallowing-methods-for-small-scale-home-gardens/

The post Fallowing, Crop Rotation and Cover Crops: Options for Soil Recovery appeared first on Ellis County Master Gardener Association.

• Rainwater carries small amounts of nitrate and ammonium formed in the atmosphere, giving plants a mild nutrient boost.
• Rainwater is naturally acidic, which unlocks trace elements from the alkaline soils that most properties have in Ellis County.
• Raindrops improve soil aeration by breaking surface crusts and carrying air into the soil, increasing oxygen around the roots. This is beneficial in supporting the roots, sending nutrients up the stem into the plant.
• Rainwater has no disinfectant. In Waxahachie, chloramine is used for city water except in October, when it is chlorine, as part of an annual system cleaning cycle.

See: Why Is Rain Good for Plants? The Science Explained – Biology Insights 

Does the chlorine or chloramine in city water dissipate if I let it stand out?
No, at least  for 11 months a year in Waxahachie. Each October, the city changes to chlorine as part of the cleaning cycle. However, for gardening, chlorine or chloramine in the water does not affect plants.

Why? Testing shows that some bacteria in the soil will be killed when irrigating, but it quickly comes back. You can, indeed, dissipate the chlorine if you let it stand for a couple of days. Chloramine must be dealt with by other means. It does not ever dissipate by letting it stand.

Do I need to dechlorinate irrigation water?
Chlorine and chloramine can temporarily suppress soil microbes, but the microbial community rebounds quickly. For most crops, this has no meaningful effect. The one exception is beans or peas, if you want to inoculate the seeds so that they can fix nitrogen. 

There are several ways to neutralize chloramine:

• You can neutralize with an aquarium dechlorinator.
• You can add vitamin C. A pinch of powdered vitamin C should neutralize chloramine in a bucket of city water. See also: Using Vitamin C to Neutralize Chlorine in Water Systems
• You can trap rainwater from your roof. Just get a rain barrel with a strainer on top and a fitting for your gutter downspout.

So, happy growing and perky plants!

Aided by Copilot and Gemini AI, fact checked with Grok A

by Paul Thomas, ECMG

The post Rain Water & City Water appeared first on Ellis County Master Gardener Association.

Mulches are categorized as organic and inorganic. Organic mulches include any natural material that easily decomposes. Wood chips, grass clippings, nut shells, compost, straw, newspaper, and sawdust are all examples of organic mulches. A benefit of organic mulches is when it decays, some nutrients will make their way into the soil. Sawdust, however, can inhibit nitrogen, so fertilizer must be applied to the soil (or mixed into the sawdust before using it as mulch).

Of all the mulch types, organic is probably the least expensive and easiest to find with the least negative consequences except for the need to replace it more frequently.

Wood chips and nut shells are commonly used. They allow for air and water circulation, and organic material helps clay soil, which is common in Ellis County, to be more crumbly instead of hard-packed. AgriLife Extension recommends a 4-inch layer of mulch; it will not only allow the ground to absorb more water, but it also reduces water loss. Preventing this loss is essential during Texas’ hot summers. When mulching around trees, do not pile the mulch up and around tree trunks, which can lead to disease and pest infestations. Sawdust and compost have a finer texture than chips and shells. With deep layers they can control weeds, but water and air circulation will be inhibited.

Organic materials decompose quickly and require frequent replenishing. AgriLife Extension advises applying enough organic material that when settled, it will be 4 inches thick. Coarser materials, like straw, may need as much as 8 inches or more, and newspapers should be at least eight layers thick. Further, AgriLife Extension recommends adding more mulch during the growing season to keep weeds at bay as the materials break down.

Dyed mulches, such as black wood chips, are not toxic to use, according to the Cooperative Extension at the University of Maine. However, they caution buyers to know the supplier and wood source, so recycled pressure-treated wood can be avoided because it might be contaminated with copper arsenate. The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), advises that wood treated with chromate arsenicals should not be used for mulch. According to that agency, chromated arsenicals, which include chromated copper arsenate, have been used to treat wood as a pesticide since the 1940s but no public health risks have been found. However, it can be a risk for plants and aquatic invertebrates.

Inorganic or synthetic mulch refers to man-made materials and those that do not decompose quickly. These mulches include plastic, recycled rubber mats, rocks and rock chips as well as landscape fabric. A benefit of synthetic mulches is it breaks down slowly and does not require frequent replacement. On the other hand, synthetics’ shortcomings relate to its artificial composition. As it decomposes, it may release chemicals into the ground. It can also create a barrier for rain and air circulation, which may be good for weed control but also negatively affect desired plants.

AgriLife Extension notes that plastic is the only inorganic mulch used in vegetable gardens. Black plastic helps to warm the soil in early spring and summer, and it can help to reduce weeds. The downside to using it is that at the end of a growing season it must be removed because it cannot be turned back into the soil.

Rocks and stones can add depth and dimension to a landscape. Although it may seem contrary, rocks do not increase ground temperature. While rocks do prevent weeds for a while, they are not a good permanent solution without using herbicides.

An alternative mulch is ground cover, often called living mulches. Lush ground covers are gorgeous to behold for spaces that otherwise might be bare. They fill spaces under trees and in open, sunny areas. Some produce flowers, bringing color into an area that may be plain. Some popular ground covers are ajuga, Asian jasmine, Carex/sedge, periwinkle, ivy, horseherb, liriope, mondo grass, purple wintercreeper, and Texas frogfruit. The downside to living mulches is competition. It competes with other plants for everything — water, light, nutrients and space.

AgriLife Extension offers some tips for mulch selection. The first is cost — if you have appropriate material already available, use it. For example, cut branches and trees can be chipped in a wood chipper. Next is to never mulch with the same crop material as what is planted. To illustrate the point, if cucumbers are grown in the spring, do not use those same plants as mulch for an autumn cucumber crop. This simple rule will avoid spreading diseases from one season’s crop to the next. The last tip is to consider the mulch color. Light color mulches reflect heat and are better in the summer and fall, but dark mulches will warm the soil for spring planting.

by Teresa Brown, ECMG    

Sources

Environmental Protection Agency. (n.d.) Ingredients Used in Pesticide Products. Chromated Arsenicals.
https://www.epa.gov/ingredients-used-pesticide-products/chromated-arsenicals-cca

Texas A&M AgriLife Extension. (June 2014.) Easy Gardening: Mulching. PDF Hort-PU-110
https://cdn-de.agrilife.org/extension/departments/hort/hort-pu-110/publications/files/easy-gardening-mulching-1.pdf

Texas A&M AgriLife Extension. (n.d.) WaterSmart Landscapes for the Upper Texas Gulf Coast. https://watersmart.tamu.edu/mulching

University of Connecticut, College of Agriculture, Health and Natural Resources. (n.d.) Mulch Basics. https://homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu/factsheets/mulch-basics

University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign, Illinois Extension (March 27, 2023). Make the most of Mulch by choosing from living, synthetic, inorganic, or organic.
https://extension.illinois.edu/news-releases/make-most-mulch-choosing-living-synthetic-inorganic-or-organic

University of Maine. Cooperative Extension. Ask the Expert. (June 15, 2022). Is black mulch harmful to plants? Is the dye in the mulch toxic?
https://extension.umaine.edu/gardening/2022/06/15/is-black-mulch-harmful-to-plants

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Most everyone is familiar with the basic basil, garlic, pine nuts, parmesan cheese and olive oil recipe, and that is a good basic and delicious one — but I don’t always have pine nuts on hand or enough fresh basil, etc. You can use any leafy green veggie or herb. I’ve seen spinach, kale or parsley pesto recipes and other recipes that use walnuts, hazelnuts or almonds instead of pine nuts. Again, your imagination is the only limitation. If you follow the basic formula, you will be able to improvise the basic recipe into whatever your garden and imagination can come up with.

Basic Basil Pesto

1/3 cup pine nuts 

2 cups fresh basil leaves, tightly packed

3 cloves of garlic, peeled (roasted if desired. This will decrease the sharpness of fresh garlic.)

1/3 cup parmesan (or pecorino) cheese, finely grated

1/3 cup olive oil (best to use a good quality extra virgin olive oil)

1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice (not a store brand bottled lemon juice)

¼ teaspoon salt

Pepper to taste

Instructions:

• Toast the pine nuts in a dry skillet over medium high heat for 3-5 minutes until golden and fragrant. Side aside to cool.
• Rinse basil leaves and dry thoroughly. 
• Peel garlic.
• Finely grate parmesan or pecorino cheese on a fine grater or micro plane. Set the cheese aside.
• In a food processor, pulse the nuts and garlic until coarsely chopped. Scrape the sides of the processor bowl as needed.
• Add basil leaves and pulse until combined with the nuts and garlic.Scrape the sides of the processor bowl.
• With the processor running, slowly drizzle in the olive oil and process until emulsified.
• Add lemon juice, parmesan cheese, salt and pepper, then pulse until combined but still slightly textured. Taste and adjust for seasoning.

This pesto can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for 1 week. Be sure to cover the top of the basil in the storage container with a thin layer of olive oil. This will keep it from turning brown. When using the pesto during the week, be sure to replace the thin layer of olive oil after each use. When ready to use, just stir the layer of oil into the remaining pesto. You can also store your pesto in ice cube trays in the freezer for up to 2-3 months. Be sure to apply a thin layer of olive oil on each cube before freezing.

Other nuts such as walnuts, almonds, hazelnuts or pecans can be used. Pecorino romano or asiago cheese can be used instead of parmesan. Spinach, arugula, kale or parsley can be used in place of or in combination with basil.

Using your pesto: 
Use it as a pasta sauce, but be sure to save some of the pasta water to help make a creamier sauce. Use it as a dip on sandwiches or instead of tomato sauce on a pizza or flatbread. Pesto is great on top of roasted meats, chicken and seafood as well as vegetables.

So, if you’re looking for a great way to use up your bounty of home-grown basil, parsley or leafy green vegetables, don’t forget about this basic pesto recipe.

by Beth Norris, ECMG      

The post Pesto Presto! appeared first on Ellis County Master Gardener Association.

They’ve found a home in Texas

In Texas the most common hammerhead species is the Bipalium kewense. They came from Asia with imported plants and were discovered in the United States around 1901. About 35 years ago they spread to Texas due a preference for warmer, moist climates. The hammerhead has invaded a number of Texas counties, but they have not been reported in Victoria County, according to Matt Bochat, Victoria County AgriLife Extension agent. That’s not saying they aren’t already here. To seek out these worms you may find them above ground or on a sidewalk following heavy rain. Nocturnal by nature, they like to live in mulch and leaf litter.

There’s a right way to kill

If you think you have spotted one, or for that matter any suspicious looking worm, resist the urge to smush it. Another thing you don’t want to do is pick it up with your fingers. In addition to all of the bad things written about flatheads they also carry nematode parasites, and their toxic mucous excretion may result in allergic skin irritation. According to the Texas Invasive Species Institute, they generally are not seriously harmful to humans or pets. Nevertheless, direct contact should be avoided. When attempting eradication, special measures should be taken not only for safety reasons but for proper identification and tracking. If you do touch one be sure to wash your hands in warm soapy water. Using a hand sanitizer wouldn’t hurt either.

Click HERE to read the full article.

The post Hammerhead Worms – The Bad, The Ugly appeared first on Ellis County Master Gardener Association.

We are currently expanding our efforts to include farmers, growers, orchardists, and other land managers working on agricultural lands. Many native bees nest directly in the soil—often along field edges, farm lanes, bare patches, and lightly disturbed ground. These nesting aggregations are critical for crop pollination, yet they are easily overlooked and rarely documented on working lands.

Check out these resources (a one-page participation flyer and a guide to how to make a GNBee observation) that you can use to help in the endeavor.

Project Ground-Nesting Bee (GNBee)

In brief, we are inviting land managers and community members to report areas where they observe small holes in the ground with bees actively coming and going. By sharing simple observations—ideally with photos—participants can help document nesting sites, identify the bee species present on their properties, and contribute to research that improves conservation and management guidance for farms and orchards. Participation is easy, non-invasive, and fully compatible with ongoing agricultural activities. To make observations, participants will need to make an iNaturalist account, join the project, and tag the project in their observation. It is a quick process and will open the door to additional understanding about the biology in their landscape.

Launched in June 2023, Project GNBee has quickly emerged as a leading initiative in the research, conservation, and applied management of wild bees. The project brings together a broad coalition of community scientists, researchers, and institutions to establish a national monitoring program for ground-nesting bees. Bee pollination contributes hundreds of billions of dollars annually to the global economy. Wild bees, which provide pollination services at no cost to farmers, significantly enhance both the quality and quantity of crop yields. Some species form large, long-standing nesting aggregations that deliver essential pollination services, supporting ecosystem resilience, agricultural sustainability, and food security. Despite their importance, locating bee nesting sites remains a major challenge. Conservation efforts have historically focused on floral resources, leaving critical gaps in our understanding of native bee nesting biology. To address this, Project GNBee has three primary goals: 1) discover, document, and study the nesting requirements of ground-nesting bee aggregations; 2) protect nesting aggregations and assess associated health risks to bees; and 3) develop multi-scale, evidence-based management strategies for agriculture. By advancing knowledge of native bee nesting ecology, Project GNBee aims to sustain pollinator biodiversity and promote a resilient, diversified pollinator community—essential for the health of ecosystems and agricultural economies alike.
www.gnbee.org

The post Documenting Ground-nesting Bees on Working Lands appeared first on Ellis County Master Gardener Association.

Preparation: For an 8 x 4 foot row, I had hoops, frost cloth, and clips on hand. I find I need two packages that t. Also, in my case I had a second cover in the form of a twin fitted sheet.

1. Scrape back the four or so inches of mulch you have previously put down in preparation. The result should be a wave pattern, with soil at the bottom of the valleys.
2. Plant or transplant.
3. Set up the hoops every foot and a half.
4. Is a frosty night or below freezing weather coming?
   1. Water the garden the day before.
   2. Clip frost cloth to the hoops. Anchor the ends with bricks or pave stones.
   3. Clip the sheet to the frost cloth.
   4. By hand, pull mulch over the plants in the valleys.
5. Wait out the storm. Safety note: buy some clip-on crampons for your shoes, so that you can walk on ice.
6. Above freezing again? Pull off the covers, leaving the hoops (or go half-way to save time, if this is only a temporary reprieve. Pull back the mulch.

Results (in my case): There were three nights of freezing temperatures in late January. The temperature got down to 13 degrees one night. There were several kinds of freezing precipitation at the beginning. Most of it fell as sleet, and I think it bounced off the covering, which was clear of clinging ice or snow when I checked. The surrounding ground had an icepack, but the protected part of the garden was clear.

Results by plant, two weeks pot-freeze.

• Protected onions: They loved it! Under the cover they had thrived, showing growth.
• Unprotected onions: They survived. I watered them, and two weeks later, they are about 95% back.
• The radishes had radished, so I harvested about a cup and a half.
• The lettuce also flourished, enough to thin.
• The peas were the most tender. The stems had died back, but two weeks later the plants had out secondary stems.
• Unprotected kale and brussels sprouts, they both survived. We just cut off any foliage that had turned white.

Conclusion: this took minimal time and not much cost. You can single-hand it during set up, but two people can do it a lot quicker.

Pictures:

What I got from Amazon: Two boxes containing light green clips, hoop pieces, connectors that are in the plastic bag. You connect the hoop pieces with the connectors, put up the freeze cloth, plastic sheets, etc. and clip with the light green clips. You can do an Amazon Search for “garden hoops” and “plant covers” or “row covers.” Total outlay in 2026: about $30, assuming you can spare an old twin size fitted sheet. 

The fitted sheet was fitted over the freeze cloth. Note the kale plant which I didn’t protect from the freeze. It survived, anyway. This photo was taken in the afternoon before the freeze.

Lettuce seedlings above and struggling frost damaged edible pod sugar peas in the foreground.

The onions on the left were protected. They didn’t lose a beat. In fact, they thrived through the freeze. The onions on the right were not protected. Most survived, even the tiny ones, though some had only a quarter inch of green left on the stem. If you order onions, they arrive the first week of January, with the expectation that you will plant them right away,

by Paul Thomas, ECMG

The post How I got a Winter Garden through the Freeze appeared first on Ellis County Master Gardener Association.

Vertical gardens have several advantages. Foremost, they are space-savers. They do not take up as much ground space, which is a prized in urban areas. For example, Texas A&M AgriLife Extension recommends that vine crops are planted “two seeds in a group, 4 feet apart in rows about 8 feet apart.” Vertical gardening allows them to be planted a bit closer, about 2-3 feet apart. This means other plants can make use of the ground space. They are also easier on the knees. Crops are produced at eye level are easier to harvest. Aesthetically, the vertical growth creates dimension and visual interest. As a bonus, they can be easily used to create borders, privacy walls and be the focal point.

However, there are some drawbacks that cannot be ignored. Getting started will have a price tag attached to it. Most vertical gardening requires some kind of framework, such as a trellis, wire panel or cage. If situated against structures, there is a risk of moisture being retained, which can lead to mold or discoloration. Just as they can create privacy, they can also block the sunlight. This can be a disadvantage or advantage, depending on the need. Maintenance costs may also increase. Vertical gardens might need more water and fertilizer because the plants are more exposed to the sun and wind. And they may require more pruning to control the growth.

With that said, let’s move on to getting started. Some type of frame is needed for the plants to grow on. Trellises are the easiest choice. They can be placed in new or existing beds, in containers or alongside a wall or fence. They can be arranged to create separate areas like a private sitting spot or in a central location as a focal point.

Arched trellises are lovely as a standalone feature or in raised beds. If used in a raised bed, place each side of the arch in the end of beds to act as a bridge joining one bed to the other. Not only does this configuration become a lovely walking pass-through, but the trellis also serves double duty by supporting plants in each plot. However, do not put an arched trellis over the center of one bed because it will hog the sunshine and shade the plants under it.

An obelisk-type trellis is a lovely stand alone. It can be a decorative trellis tower in the yard, or a humble wire tomato cage secured in a pretty container on a patio. Either one can be a centerpiece with the right plant.

The flat panel trellis is a terrific choice to create a privacy screen for a patio or yard. These trellises can be positioned in the yard adjacent to a fence or outdoor sitting area. Unlike the arched version, they can be placed in the center of a garden plot, allowing plants from both sides of it to access the vertical support.

With the Ellis County Master Gardener Expo coming up on March 28, there is an opportunity to find ideal plants for the vertical garden. Look for (or ask for assistance to find) any that climb or can be trained to climb (by tying new growth to the frame). Also if it’s fruit bearing, keep the mature fruit size in mind. Extra support may be necessary. Some good plants options include raspberries, blackberries, grapes, and passionfruit. Ideal vegetables include pole beans, cucumbers, tomatoes, sugar snap peas, fava beans, zucchini, butternut squash, spaghetti squash and luffa gourds. Trainable plants include mint (use a container for them to keep them from uncontrolled spreading), lemon verbena, thyme and nasturtium. And for color, look for flowering vines like honeysuckle, crossvine, passionvine, Carolina jessamine and trumpet creeper. But avoid tuber plants, like potatoes, carrots, onions and garlic

.

Sink the trellis at least a foot into the ground to provide substantial support. If heavy fruit-bearing plants are the goal, additional anchor stakes may be necessary. When planting, leave some breathing room between the plant and the trellis. That bit of room will be appreciated when the plants are mature. Water and fertilize as directed for specific plants. Check on them weekly during growing season. Tie growth, if necessary, to the trellis and trim away any excess growth that will not produce fruit or is damaged.

For more in depth reading about the pros and cons as well as different vertical designs, look at the 2022 Australian study “Vertical Greening Systems: A Critical Comparison of Do-It-Yourself Designs.”

by Teresa Brown, ECMG

Sources:Dominici, L; Comino, E; Torpy, F. & Irga, P. (25 Nov 2022). Vertical Greening Systems: A Critical Comparison of Do-It-Yourself Designs. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC9739368/#sec5-plants-11-03230

Gardenary (Aug. 7, 2025). The complete guide to vertical gardening.
https://www.gardenary.com/blog/the-complete-guide-to-vertical-gardening

Petal Back Farm. How to grow squash on a trellis. https://petalbackfarm.com/how-to-grow-squash-on-a-trellis

Texas A&M AgriLife Extension. Vegetable Resources. Spaghetti Squash.
https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/vegetable/guides/specialty-vegetables/spaghetti-squash

The post Looking up to Vertical Gardens appeared first on Ellis County Master Gardener Association.

In an earlier newsletter I wrote an article about the Blackland Prairie, which runs through North Texas in the DFW Metroplex from Sherman through Waxahachie. In the early 1800s, it was covered by tall native grasses, beautiful flowers, bushes and trees. It looked like heaven to pioneering farmers and ranchers. Yes, even bison were grazing here. So what happened? It was all plowed under in a very short time and nonnative grasses, crops and ornamentals were brought in to replace what was here. And the animals? They either moved away, starved to death or could not find a place to raise their young and disappeared into extinction, so much for biodiversity.

The nonnatives found the Texas climate for extreme heat, extreme cold and long droughts hard to tolerate, which resulted in a constant battle for people who wanted things the way they were back home. The natives had adapted over thousands of years without human intervention and had found ways to exist regardless of the Texas climate.

I hear people all the time complaining that their flowers, trees and grasses require so much work, water, fertilizer and pesticides just stay alive, and it is expensive. When was the last time you saw fireflies?

The answer is to plant NATIVE PLANTS, encouraging native insects and birds to return and not using so many pesticides and weed killers, because native plants do not need them. Texas, now, has a law that requires homeowner associations to allow residents to landscape with native plants to conserve water.

I have had the pleasure to see many birds and butterflies visiting my strip of Blackland Prairie in my backyard. I also use native shrubs and trees in my front yard that replaced the Bradford pear trees and boxwood shrubs.

Now, the movement to increase biodiversity with native plants for native animals has gone national with Homegrown National Parks, where each landowner can create a piece of land on their property that, as a whole, has the potential to double the area that we have currently in national parks, national rangelands and other protected lands. Yes, we have great parks, but 71% of the land in the lower states is privately owned. East of the Mississippi river, over 85% of land is privately owned. This makes it very difficult for migrating birds and decreases the genetic diversity, which can result in extinction because the parks, while large, are not close enough to each other to affect genetic diversity.

Municipalities and public areas can switch to natives as well as residents and ranchers. The Texas highway department not only seeds highway right-of-ways with native plants but does not mow until the plants have stopped blooming and produced seed for future growth.

What can you do as an individual?

1. Shrink the lawn and use native grasses. You will be pleased with a lower water bill.
2. Remove invasive species. Yes, Bermuda and Saint Augustine grasses are invasive, but those dandelions that are called “weeds” are native and provide food for bees and butterflies in the spring before other plants begin to flower.
3. Be generous with your native planting.
4. Reduce your nighttime light pollution or at least replace them with yellow LED bulbs.
5. Provide areas for frogs, toads and insects to hide and breed.
6. Leave the leaves that fall in your yard at least until April. Many insects like lightning bugs over winter in them.
7. Leave water out for birds and provide wet sand for butterflies.
8. Provide more feed plants for caterpillars
9. Set your lawnmower at no less than 3 inches. Remember that most native bees are ground dwellers.
10. Stop random spraying of pesticides and herbicides that are nonspecific. With native plants and grasses you do not need someone to treat your yard. This includes broad area neighborhood mosquito spraying.

Look up Home Grown National Park to see more about what they are proposing.

Research how to create a “pocket prairie.” Watch for announcements about where Master Gardeners will be speaking in your area in libraries, farmer markets and garden clubs. Come to the Master Gardener Plant Expo at the Waxahachie Civic Center on March 28 to learn more and possibly pick up some native plants with your veggies.

Let us work together to restore the natural biodiversity and Happy Gardening.

by Rob Franks, ECMG  

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