Epicurean Perils of Sweet Polly

Nebraska Mini-Mart, Tampa, Florida

2018-08-19T17:21:00.004-04:00

Well, lookie here...it's my annual blog post! Yes, I've been super-slacking in the content department, but wanted to share this brand new gem (less than a week old).

Nebraska Mini-Mart is a casual street food concept by the Rooster & Till folks. They did a great job this afternoon even though the resto is still in “soft opening” mode. The menu is limited, consisting of beer and wine as the only alcoholic offerings (but there's a decent beer selection), and hand food served in boxes with no utensils. Plenty of napkins, thank Gawd, because they’re needed. This is not a first date place - you will get messy (I'm talkin' "BYO Visqueen").

The restaurant is actually housed in a former Mini-Mart in Seminole Heights and looks the part. Most seating consists of outside on picnic tables, but there’s a small, super-noisy indoor room with A/C (all seating is communal). Bocce Ball and Shuffleboard courts are available outside with fees to play. No shade, so will probably be more pleasant when the temps cool down and a cover is added.

Food is fun, whimsical and well prepared. You order from a window and pick up when ready.

Sammies were stellar, especially the Pig Mac, a juicy pork burger with “That Sauce”, American cheese, lettuce, onion and tomato on a sesame seed bun. No need to reinvent the wheel when you can just make the original 100x better!

Korean Cheesesteak with Bulgoggi steak, kimchi and Gochujang mayo was also a drippy, flavorful winner. You should like a little heat, 'cause this baby packs some.

Now, we get to the part where Mommy eats her vegetables. Sides sampled were sweet and smoky Charred Corn with ancho, lime, Mexican crema and a roll in Cojita cheese (this is how you pack 500 calories into an ear of corn...but SO worth it!);

Some perfectly executed onion rings drizzled with a zippy buttermilk chive ranch dressing and smoky tasso “bacon” bits (yep...they did that);

.

And, finally, Tempura Oyster Mushroom Clusters topped with a Bloomin’ Onion style sauce. I was excited to try them because I love fried mushrooms (as well as the concept of these)...but the 'shroom clusters were too large to obtain an optimal level of tenderness in the fryer. The finished product was tasty, but tough.

Fun spot if you like "Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives" type places with elevated offerings.

Nebraska Mini-Mart

My blog entries contain the unmitigated, and sometimes unforgiving, dining truths and perceptions I experience as an ordinary restaurant patron. Every meal I post about has been fully paid for by one of the participating members of my personal dining party. I do not engage in the gratis blogger freebie dining events I'm constantly invited to attend and never will. If I ooze font-like love for a restaurant in my blog, it's because they totally earned it…not because they gave me free food or knew I was going to share the experience on the internet.

Chiang Mai Thai & Sushi, Clearwater, FL

2017-08-27T16:30:00.000-04:00

Had some of the best Thai food last night that I've eaten in forever at Chiang Mai Thai & Sushi. The place is located in a newish strip mall, smack-dab in the middle of Scientologyland, but the interior ambiance was not short on far-eastern zen elegance. Reading reviews online, I found that the restaurant generally received a composite score of less than four stars on major review sites (usually a red flag for me). Reading further, I surmised that the service was keeping Chiang from reaching its full potential, as that's what most folks b!+c#ed about. I figured our group of four wasn't in any hurry, so we took the plunge.

The complaints about the service, as it turned out, weren't unfounded. It wasn't enthusiastic, it wasn't overly warm, and it wasn't particularly attentive (we had to flag our server down for drink refills). However, the food was delightful...hot, fresh-tasting, generously portioned, beautifully presented and delish.

We started with the $12.99 Chiang Mai Sampler (two each of Thai spring rolls, egg rolls, Bangkok fried shrimp, crab rangoon and curry puffs). It was excellent and perfect for four (what's not to love about a platter full of piping hot, deep fried goodness)? Everyone pounced on it before I could even take a pic.

Entrees sampled were my Panang Curry Crispy Duck, which was the best crispy duck I've ever eaten in an Asian restaurant. Crispy on the outside, juicy on the inside, and swimming in a luxurious bath of crisp veggies and sweet-meets-spicy peanut and coconut sauce.

Hubs ordered the Sizzling Duck, which was served with shrimp, scallops, squid, veggies, and Thai chili sauce. Isn't it pretty?

Another dining companion tried the Amazing Scallops served over broccoli with peanut sauce. His spousal unit opted for a protein laden salad, which I didn't get a photo of...everything we ordered received two thumbs up, however.

White or brown rice comes with everything except the salads. Very good...and no one could eat it all. Date night destination...as long as you don't have somewhere else to be afterwards. We'll be back.

Chiang Mai Thai and Sushi Bar

Lolita's Wine Market, St. Petersburg, FL

2017-08-06T12:07:00.002-04:00

Hello, ya'll! Has it really been over a year since I last posted? If I learned one thing while I was a freelance columnist for the Tampa Tribune, it's that nothing sucks the fun out of writing faster than doing it to a deadline.

Getting down to business, I was jolted back into to blogging mode this weekend by my experience at the mostprecious Lolita's Wine Market. It's tiny and intimate, it's charming, and it's run by lovely folks. Our group of four was made to feel more like guests than customers by the friendly, laid-back staff, who quickly ascertained which of the daily wine-by-the-glass offerings matched our individual palates and promptly dispatched them.

I was a little bummed when I learned that the only food offerings available at the somewhat odd hour of 3:00 PM were the jars (spreads and desserts in adorable Lilliputian Mason jars) and charcuterie. After four weeks of post-vaca low-carbing, Mommy had a hankering for some Truffle Mac and Cheese. I got over it pretty quickly after the food started coming out, however.

The shareable jarred spreads with toasted ciabatta bread for carrying range in price from $6 to $9 and there wasn't a bad one in the bunch that we tried: The Ricotta (honey lavender whipped ricotta with kale pesto, heirloom tomatoes and balsamic pearls); PB&J (whipped foie gras mousse, peanut butter and berry jam - my new addiction!); and White Bean (white bean, chorizo and corn salsa).

At Lolita's, you create your own charcuterie board by taking a pencil to what looks like a typical sushi menu listing a dizzying array of meats, cheeses and accoutrements. I can't remember everything that we had piled atop this mountain of protein, but it included Manchego, Lemon Zest Stilton (which I loved, but received mixed reviews from the group), Truffle Mousse Pate, Proscuitto, Rosemary Ham, Chorizo, Cornichons, Spanish Marinated Anchovies, Hearts of Palm Escabeche, Quince Paste, Honeycomb, Bourbon Bacon Tomato Jam, Herb Marinated Artichokes and more. The final result was not lacking in WOW factor.

Although the four of us did not manage to completely plow through this massive platter, we did squeak in a taste of the Coconut Tres Leches cake (again, adorably presented in a little jar) topped with pepito brittle for dessert. Everything a tres leches cake should be, it was dense, moist, coconut-y and slathered in whipped cream. Good times!

Lolita's is my latest crush du jour, and I'm looking forward to a return visit soon for Carbonara with prosciutto chips, truffle mac and cheese and quail egg!

Lolita's Wine Market

My blog entries contain the unmitigated, and sometimes unforgiving, dining truths and perceptions I experience as an ordinary restaurant patron. Every meal I post about has been fully paid for by one of the participating members of my personal dining party. I do not engage in the gratis blogger freebie dining events I'm constantly invited to attend and never will. If I ooze font-like love for a restaurant in my blog, it's because they totally earned it…not because they gave me free food or knew I was going to share the experience on the internet.

Selene Fresh Fare & Bar, St. Pete Beach, FL

2016-05-15T17:58:00.001-04:00

Hold onto your hats, everyone...there’s a newish dining destination on the Pinellas beaches that is NOT a great place for grouper sandwiches, onion rings and Key lime pie (not that there’s anything wrong with any of that) or a mediocre tourist trap with Sysco offerings.

A former Village Inn location has morphed into a modern and serenely chillaxing adult oasis (I didn’t see any children or a kids’ menu – and a youngster would need to have seriously adventurous palate to find something to order and be happy with here). That’s okay because sometimes grownups need a break. The interior is sleek, somewhat minimalistic and awash in the soothing shades of Santorini blue and white.

My party of four toddled in at the embarrassingly early hour of 5:00 PM, as we AARP card carriers are wont to do, only to find that our iron-poor blood paid dividends when the happy hour menus were dispensed. If there is a finer happy hour menu with similar pricing in Pinellas county (and comparable food quality), I want to hear about it (my email address is at the end of this column). Generous pours of house wines and locally brewed craft beers are priced at $4 (domestic beers at $3) between 4:00 and 6:00, and a delectable selection of apps are also discounted. We were required to dine in the bar area to qualify for these discounts, but the environment is quite pleasing and the service received was knowledgeable, friendly and attentive.

Right off the bat, I must lavish kudos on the remarkable complimentary bread service. A Jenga-like stack of hot, crispy slabs of gluten-riche decadence showed up along with some sexy, curry-infused crunchy breadsticks. A luxe little trough of brightly fresh hummus for dipping rounded out this low-carber’s nightmare.

Because we could, we ordered a few of the discounted apps. The rock star of our sampling was a heaping $7 piled of grilled octopodi. Little char-grilled disks of cephalopod were almost lobster-like in consistency and accented with oregano, red wine vinegar, onion, capers. One of the best versions to be had in Tampa Bay for my money. A $6 selection of toasty pita wedges with a choice of three spreads was also snarfed in short order. Most selections afforded out-of-the-ordinary taste sensations and all elicited multiple dips and “mmmm”s and “ahhh”s– smoked eggplant, yellow split pea mousse (FAR more delightful than it sounds – sweet and delicate), and the adventure-seeker’s skordalia (a mild, silky mashed potato and garlic based spread spiked with garlic and pureed fish roe). The $5 stuffed mushrooms with bacon, roasted peppers and mozzarella were also winners, boasting a meaty, non-slimy texture that even the non-funghi lover in our party appreciated. Perhaps the only item on my “not to order next time” list would be the $7 roasted quail in white wine and lemon juice. It was flavorful, but a tad overdone…and I always feel a little like I’m eating someone’s parakeet when I’m nibbling the flesh from their tiny bones. Best that I avoid dishes that make me contemplate vegetarianism as a lifestyle.

Entrees were, for the most part, both healthy and filling. Fish dishes are done simply and extremely well at Selene. Hub’s entire deboned branzino was lightly grilled to moist perfection with olive oil and lemon…that’s it. Served with a warm slaw, a nutty $5 side of giant limas (don’t diss them ‘til you’ve tried them) was tacked on to share with the group. Steak lovers need not despair – NY strip, filet mignon and ribeye are all available at Selene and prepared with care based on the taste I had of the beautifully seared, juicy tenderloin with grilled veggies and a side of Béarnaise I snagged from the plate of a dining companion.

Never one to feign daintiness or pretend to count calories when dining out, I practically did a face plant into the depths of my pool of luxurious shrimp and grouper risotto (a special of the evening). I’m a huge advocate of moderation…especially as it applies to moderation.

The dessert menu is outré and might cause traditionalists a moment of hesitation…but one must keep an open mind. I’ll admit that I recoiled in horror at the very idea of a cheesecake lavished in tomato jam and sweet spoon olives. Really, what sounds more horrible than that? Maybe an old tire frosted with a can of cream of mushroom soup. Guess what? This works…I don’t know how, but it does. You will be unable to keep your fork out of it. The pear poached in white wine and saffron, stuffed with vanilla ice cream, is also a solid choice if you need to stay closer to your epicurean comfort zone. Baby steps.

www.selenerestaurant.com

Drama Burger, Tampa, FL

2016-05-04T18:54:00.000-04:00

Okay, drama-seekers…at long last you’ll be welcomed somewhere. Drama Burger, which opened in December of 2015, is a funky little Lithuanian (yes, you read correctly) boutique burger spot housed in a re-purposed Chinese drive-through restaurant. The venue has an offbeat charm with its minimalist, industrial Eastern Euro-chic décor, concrete floors, mix and match furniture and eclectic pendant lights – but don’t go in expecting fancy trappings despite the fact that it’s conceivable to pay $13 or more for a burger here.

If you’re a traditionalist (or don’t have at least a modicum of an adventurous eating streak), you probably shouldn’t even bother because you’ll need to be able to wrap your head around ingredients like ajika, pickled kohlrabi and harissa mayo at Drama Burger. But if you’re ever going to step out of your comfort zone, this would be the time and place to do so.

The craft Angus beef offerings are minced fresh daily, sold a la carte and range in price from $9 to $14 (quality in this case warranting the heftier price tag). Served on sweet brioche buns, they’re topped with escalated accoutrements like house made BBQ sauces and mayos, a variety of fresh greens, pickled veggies, assorted onions and unusual cheeses. All burgers are cooked to a juicy medium rare (just as God intended) unless otherwise specified and are ridiculously indulgent.

The $14 March burger of the month (Berlin Burger) left me bitterly wishing I could rent some extra stomach space and finish the entire thing. This masterpiece consisted of TWO beef patties layered with thick-cut bacon, BBQ sauce, chipotle mayo, a thick slab of fried Emmental cheese, pickled cucumber, white onion, iceberg lettuce, spinach and arugula. Truly a ground-breaking composition for the Tampa Bay area. Helpful hint: You’ll need a roll of Visqueen and fire hose to emerge from this battle unscathed.

My beloved was intrigued by the Pastrami Burger – another fat burger topped with Drama Burger’s homemade pastrami (which involves nine days of brining, smoking and boiling to reach its fabulous fruition). Embellished with mustard mayo, red onion and pickles, not a morsel remained after he wrapped his Neanderpaws around it and tucked in. There’s also a dedicated pastrami sandwich dressed identically that easily stands on its own. Honey, I don't think that Fitbit on your wrist is going to save you.

Other strong contenders sampled were the Salmon Burger – a chopped salmon patty (definitely not your mom’s) with roasted leek mayo, spinach and pickled veggies – and a spicy Lamb Burger piled with eggplant, Greek yogurt with cumin and other goodies.

Salmon Burger:

Vegetarians needn’t sulk - you won’t be left sitting on your hands while watching the carnivores dig in. Portobello burgers are available along with a short list of salads and several flavorful animal protein-free sides and apps (from which one could easily build a tapas meal). Shatteringly crunchy onion rings are a solid choice, as are creamy avocado wedges deep fried in spicy tempura batter and served with zippy aioli for dipping. Trying to avoid fried foods? Consider the roasted baby carrots with maple syrup and harissa paste. While perhaps served a little too firm for my Southern palate, their sweet-meets-heat flavor profile and food stylist-esque presentation will make it easy for veggie lovers to gobble up their MDR of Vitamin A. Other options include green pea falafel, sautéed kale with butter and sesame seeds, and broccoli with cheddar.

I honestly wasn’t expecting desserts to be as memorable as they were. Red Velvet Cake is delightfully deconstructed and features moist, dense chunks of cake presented atop a schmear of cream cheese frosting, then crowned with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and fresh berries. Maybe one of the best Red Velvet Cake applications I’ve ever tasted.

The ultimate charmer, however, is the Chocolate Rocky – a riff on a classic dessert popular in Lithuania, Portugal and Italy. For this diabolical taste sensation, chocolate ganache and biscotti bits are combined, formed into a log and dredged in powdered sugar. Then, the entire thing is wrapped in butcher paper and tied with twine to resemble an artisanal sausage. A serving is one half of the roll, which shows up looking for all the world like a little gift-wrapped package with more of the homemade vanilla ice cream thrown in for good measure.

Beverages include homemade lemonade, milkshakes and an eclectic assortment of local beers like Angry Chair, Cigar City and Cycle along with European classics such as Carslberg and Guiness. A short selection of Vinecraft organic wines is also available.

While not inexpensive (it’s easy to spend $60+ for two sandwiches and sides, a couple of drafts apiece and a dessert to share), it’s a worthwhile destination for burger lovers seeking something out of the ordinary. Expect the unexpected and be prepared to be delighted.

www.drama-burger.com

My blog entries contain the unmitigated, and sometimes unforgiving, dining truths and perceptions I experience as an ordinary restaurant patron. Every meal I post about has been fully paid for by one of the participating members of my personal dining party. I do not engage in the gratis blogger freebie dining events I'm constantly invited to attend and never will. If I ooze font-like love for a restaurant in my blog, it's because they totally earned it…not because they gave me free food or knew I was going to share the experience on the internet.

Kings Street Food Counter, St. Petersburg, FL

2016-05-02T19:39:00.000-04:00

Open for less than six months, I have a serious crush on this Central Avenue newbie. First of all, it’s so adorably kitschy with its mint-toned 1950s diner theme that you might get a cavity even BEFORE you get to the decadent milkshake menu – but let’s not put the cart ahead of the horse.

The interior so well captures the of a look and feel of classic soda fountain that one almost expects a Lucy and Ethel sighting, but the menu’s modern twist on comfort classics quickly reminds you that it is, indeed, 2016. With a dozen or so local craft beers on tap, a short selection of house wines and $3 mimosas (which are clear enough to read the menu through…just the way mommy likes them), plenty of non-alcoholic beverages are also available including local MADE Coffee Company coffee, freshly brewed teas and classically bottled sodas.

Getting down to business, all day breakfast offerings intrigue - like Sweet Chick (crispy fried chicken with honey-jalapeño marmalade and funnel fries) and French Toast Churros, which will make you quickly disavow every other French toast stick you’ve ever eaten. The hand-cut slabs of sourdough are saturated in custard, deep fried, rolled in cinnamon sugar and presented hot and crispy.

The holy grail for grilled cheese lovers, Kings’ patrons have a Sophie’s choice decision to make. What will it be? The Pear-Fect combines caramelized onions, oozing gorgonzola, sweet pear slices and bacon, pressed inside of buttery, shatteringly crunchy slices of thick sourdough bread which is delivered fresh daily from DF Bakery in Orlando. A house favorite, the Muenster Melt couples Muenster and white cheddar cheeses with ham and beer mustard. Purists will find their nirvana in the Triple Cheese – aged Vermont cheddar and chipotle smoked Gouda sandwiched between the same exceptionally fine bread with a Parmesan crusted exterior. My top rec, however, is a healthy alternative – the Blue Pig. Aged Vermont cheddar and peppered bacon are married with blueberry jam bursting with juicy orbs of whole fruit and, if I’m not mistaken, blueberries are liberally packed with antioxidants. I also think I read somewhere that there’s calcium in cheese. Rationalize it however you must…but you want one of these and you can't wrong with any of them.

I’m not ashamed to admit that I love a good hot dog and there’s a tantalizing variety to be had here. Because of its “Frito Pie” inspiration, Southerners will truly appreciate the fat, all-beef Chili Cheese Dog with meaty, house made beer chili (which is also offered as a side dish), shredded cheddar, chopped onion and corn chips all piled atop a pillowy bun. It was SO good and its sidecar macaroni salad was off the chain. Creamy and not soupy in the least, the pasta elbows were lightly dressed and studded with bacon bits and gorgonzola crumbles – definitely not your granny’s macaroni salad.

A short selection of poutines are also on the menu, none of which were sampled on any of my three visits. There’s a traditional version with beef gravy and cheese curds, along with a few riffs like the ‘Merica (which features crinkle-cut fries loaded with beer chili, cheese, sour cream and bacon) and the El Jefé topped with fire roasted tomatoes, roasted jalapenos and queso blanco.

Sandwiches and hot dogs, almost all of which are priced at $10 or less, are served on aluminum trays with plastic cutlery. One side dish comes with each, and diners may select from tangy tomato bisque, beer chili, fries, or macaroni salad.

As difficult as it was to shoehorn down another morsel after my recent lunches at Kings Street Food Counter, I took one (or two) for the team in the interest of journalistic research. The $5 hand-spun milkshakes are delightful and come in creative flavors like Whopper, strawberry shortcake and Mean Mocha. Ice cream is not my Kryptonite and seldom tempts me, but I couldn’t stop slurping my peanut butter shake with Cap’n Crunch cereal crumbles until the glass was empty. Not as sweet as I was expecting. Boasting a rather adult flavor, the vanilla ice cream was nicely balanced by the saltiness of the peanut butter.

Cronuts are simply ridiculous. Imagine deep-fried croissant donuts lavished in chocolate ganache and showered with bacon bits if you can. It’s like deep-fried butter topped with pork fat. And chocolate. I recommend dipping them into your peanut butter milkshake. These absolutely must be tried, but be forewarned…there’s no sadder sight than an empty cronut tray, so you might have to place a second order.

Kings is an all-around good time that pleases all generations, palates and wallet thicknesses. Fun deals are featured during the week like buy one, get one half off grilled cheeses on Mondays and hot dogs on Tuesdays. New menu items are currently being rolled out which include a cheese steak sandwich, quesadillas and a diner burger. Outdoor ping-pong is available in the beer garden and movies (as well as local sporting events) are projected onto the wall of an adjacent building after dark.

www.kingsdtsp.com

My blog entries contain the unmitigated, and sometimes unforgiving, dining truths and perceptions I experience as an ordinary restaurant patron. Every meal I post about has been fully paid for by one of the participating members of my personal dining party. I do not engage in the gratis blogger freebie dining events I'm constantly invited to attend and never will. If I ooze font-like love for a restaurant in my blog, it's because they totally earned it…not because they gave me free food or knew I was going to share the experience on the internet.

Doc B's Fresh Kitchen, Tampa, FL

2016-05-02T18:46:00.000-04:00

I’m not ordinarily a chain restaurant proponent which, coupled with the fact that I invariably (and promptly) lose the will the live the moment I pull into a shopping mall parking lot, make Doc B’s Fresh Kitchen and me a bit of an odd match – proving once again that sometimes opposites attract.

I comfort myself with the fact that this is still more of multi-location restaurant than a bona fide national franchise at this point, currently consisting of two original outposts in Chicago, its first out-of-state expansion effort which launched at International Plaza’s Bay Street last November, and a fourth location scheduled to open in Ft. Lauderdale later this year.

The ambiance at Doc B’s is somewhat minimalistic and industrial-chic, with high ceilings, flat screens throughout and loudish piped-in music. Throw in a lengthy open kitchen, a bar, a bustling staff, plus 4,200 square feet packed with convivial diners and the noise level can become more than a tad raucous. You should be aware of this going in and embrace the fun vibe for what it is, remembering that you’re probably not going to want to propose marriage or even initiate a heartfelt conversation here.

What you ARE here for is the food. High quality, creative and fresh (it’s not a misnomer – menu items rotate quarterly to make the most of seasonably available ingredients), most selections pack a nutritional punch that will make you feel good about yourself even if you didn’t go in with the best of intentions. Doc B’s managed to sneakily gavage kale into my body on both visits without ever making me feel bitterly resentful – no small feat. Beef, chicken and fish are carefully sourced to ensure that they are all-natural and hormone and antibiotic-free.

Starters range in price from $7 for Soup of the Day to $15 for Bang Bang Oysters, which is a generous enough appetizer to be a meal for most individuals. In this application, colossal oysters encased in barely-there breading are coated in sweet Thai chili and Sriracha hot sauces, layered in Asian slaw and accented with julienned mango and roasted peanuts. Cool and crunchy lettuce cups are provided for wrapping. I could eat this every day for the rest of my life.

Likewise, the generously portioned $11 Oven Roasted Chicken Wings should not be overlooked. Roasted until falling of the bone and tossed in garlic, Parmesan cheese and chimichurri sauce, they pack a flavorful punch. Atkins dieters rejoice!

Guacamole was sturdy in texture, dreamily creamy and uniquely accented with thick, admirably engineered house-made sweet potato chips as carriers. I found the guac a tad innocuous for my personal taste, feeling it could’ve been elevated by a kick of onion, pico de gallo, or the ultimate “makes everything better” ingredient - BACON. Still, it’s superior to most I’ve tried in Tampa Bay.

My new salad crush is Doc B’s Lobster Louie Cobb. Bright greens are topped with a veritable mountain of crustacean chunks, bacon crumbles and chopped boiled egg; embellished with bright tomato halves; velvety avocado wedges; and sweet and crunchy cornbread croutons. The made-from-scratch Louie dressing (a somewhat zippier West Coast version of Thousand Island) is applied with a gentle hand, yet still manages to nicely coat all of the elements. Just when you thought “salad” and “decadence” couldn’t be used in the same sentence, here’s your muse.

The Black Tiger Shrimp Salad is a similarly pulchritudinous specimen containing a generous portion of the large shellfish. Accented with avocado, peppadew, red onion, jicama matchsticks and feta, it’s served dressed in a refreshing avocado vinaigrette

Main courses sampled were equally impressive. My better half constantly rages because his restaurant pork chops are almost always overcooked. Not so in this case. His beautifully seared Berkshire chop was presented at a perfect and juicy medium. The accompanying loaded baked potato was fat and stuffed with all of the usual accoutrements one could ask for. If you’re trying to cut back on the kind of goodies that turn a 150 calorie baked potato a 450 calorie baked potato, let your server know when ordering because it will otherwise be assumed that you want them (a mentality I’m personally a fan of).

If you want to go lighter, the Wok Out Bowl is a more righteous option. Served with market veggies and chopped cashews, you may create your own bountiful bowl from a selection of protein elements, sauces and starch beds (sticky brown rice, lo mein or quinoa).

Dessert selections of the day vary. If you’re fortunate enough to hit Doc B’s on an ice cream sandwich day, do not fail to strike. A chewy, oatmeal raisin cookie variety lavished with a salted caramel gelato center being featured on one of my visits was Just. Crazy. Good. It was so indulgent that it even managed to overshadow the really fine Tres Leches cake with fresh berries we also taste-tested. Barely.

A Westshore crowd-pleaser, Doc B’s eclectic menu offers a wide range of salads, burgers, sandwiches and entrees that easily cater to all tastes and dietary restrictions.

www.docbsfreshkitchen.com

Rococo Steak, St. Petersburg, FL

2016-03-03T20:33:00.000-05:00

Classic American steakhouses aren’t at the top of my dining to-do list, which may have something to do with why I’m so late to the Rococo Steak party. To me, many of them seem somewhat unimaginative and a tad stodgy (both in atmosphere and menu offerings) although I realize that they do have a broad fan base so I’ll own up to the “it’s not them, it’s me” factor. Still, my recent experience at Rococo forced me to reevaluate this position.

Located in the historic 1920s building that formerly housed the YWCA in St. Petersburg, the interior boasts a cool elegance that sets it apart from its dark-wood-and-red-velvet old school counterparts as well as the nondescript cookie-cutter ambiance of the national chains. Padded, high backed booths afford diners privacy while grey-toned walls adorned with classic painting reproductions soothe the senses, offset by the occasional pop of color from a vermilion chandelier. Service on my visit was both knowledgeable and attentive, while refraining from stuffiness or pretension (thank you, Joshua).

While carnivores will find all of their favorite traditional beef offerings on the menu (ranging in price from $34 for a 7 oz. corn fed filet mignon to $44 for a 16 oz. grass fed ribeye – and everything in between), many other selections have a more contemporary feel. Before I walk you down that path, please make this note to yourself. When the bread service is presented, make a nosedive for the raisin nut variety before your dining companions catch wind of its fabulousness and leave you bitterly weeping into your slice of respectable (if not particularly memorable by comparison) sourdough.

Starters sampled were all stellar. The $10 lobster cognac bisque is worth the investment of both dollars and calories. Silken in texture, generously portioned, boozy and crustacean-riche, Rococo’s version is a study in decadence. I think there was originally an "R" written on top with creme fraiche, but the bowl shifted. Now, it's hieroglyphics.

Charred cuttlefish (a cousin to squid and octopus) coupled a pleasing smoky richness with the sweetness and slight chew factor one can expect when eating cephalopod. Would I order it again? Probably not. It's a little too much like calamari (not unexpectedly) for my personal taste, although I welcomed the opportunity to sample it.

Steak tartare was where things started to get a little out of control on the richness barometer. The brightly fresh, soft and creamy raw beef served with horseradish sauce and toast points was beautifully offset by the crunch of pine nuts and cornichons.

At the end of the day, however, Salmon Creek brulee of pork belly stole the show. A fat slab of fork-tender bacon capped with a thin veneer of fat left our party of four all fighting for the last bite.

Steak entrees were excellently prepared and cooked to order with sizzling, caramelized exteriors. A plethora of enhancements were available, including bleu cheese butter brulee, Béarnaise, black truffle butter, au poivre, chimichurri and an Oscar-style application. I’m now a big fan of whomever decided that tempura-battering and deep-frying a lobster tail was a good idea, because I agree that it makes a truly worthy crown for a 7 oz. filet.

Who in the hell orders pasta in a steak house? I’m afraid that would be me. In the biggest misstep of the evening, I went rogue and opted for the house made tagliatelle with short rib, boar bacon, veggies, tomato ragù, Parmigiano Reggiano and salsa verde. A full-bodied dish made with fresh pasta, there was an odd juxtaposition of Italian and Latin flavors in this entrée that I didn’t find particularly appealing.

My beloved’s $38 duo of 8 oz. Colorado lamb porterhouses left him (as well as the rest of the table) swooning. Fat, fresh and pleasingly pink on the inside, he deemed these chops “the best I’ve ever had”....just when I thought those five little words were reserved just for me.

Everything is a la carte at Rococo, but side dishes are worth the extra coin. All are generous, priced in the $10 range and easily shareable by four. The artisanal mac & cheese and airy whipped potatoes are solid choices, but don’t overlook the buttery creamed corn mash (this isn’t Del Monte’s creamed corn).

Desserts are good and made in-house. Banana Bourbon Bread Pudding with brown butter anglaise and brandy caramel put a modern spin on a classic, featuring thick slices of banana bread dipped in custard and baked (as opposed to a conglomeration of bread chunks piled into a casserole dish). An apple crisp variation served cool with Szechuan cinnamon ice cream rounded out the evening.

Final word: Rococo Steak is a fresh alternative for high-end steakhouse lovers.

www.rococosteak.com

My blog entries contain the unmitigated, and sometimes unforgiving, dining truths and perceptions I experience as an ordinary restaurant patron. Every meal I post about has been fully paid for by one of the participating members of my personal dining party. I do not engage in the gratis blogger freebie dining events I'm constantly invited to attend and never will. If I ooze font-like love for a restaurant in my blog, it's because they totally earned it…not because they gave me free food or knew I was going to share the experience on the internet.

Nineteen61, Lakeland, FL

2016-03-03T18:13:00.001-05:00

There’s a new “cool kid” in town – or more accurately, it’s a “spicy kid” just outside of town. Nineteen61, the brainchild of chef/owner Marcos Fernandez and named for the year his parents fled Cuba, is the hottest ticket in Lakeland’s burgeoning restaurant scene right now.

Latin cuisine is my favorite, so it’s possible that my review will be a little biased. I visited once for lunch and once for dinner, and left feeling starry-eyed and fat on both occasions. The venue is small and casually elegant, with a charming outdoor dining area under a pergola strung with twinkling lights and surrounded by lush landscaping. If you don’t have reservations (which can be hard to get on weekend nights) your only option may be al fresco. It’s tough to be thrown into the briar patch like that.

The restaurant is not inexpensive, nor should it be considering the quality of the cuisine. Appetizers range in price from $7 for serrano ham croquetas to $27 for a charcuterie platter piled with melt-on-the-tongue, jamón ibérico, chorizo, assorted Spanish cheeses and olives. Entrees will set you back anywhere from $13 for the Hamburguesa to $39 for Paella Mariscos. There’s also free-range Guinea hog on the menu (which wasn’t available on either of my trips) locally sourced from Florida’s own Mt. Citra Farm. Not to be confused with Guinea pig - don’t even go there.

Charcuterie at Nineteen61 bears a remarkable similarity to the platters UD and I tried in Barcelona.

Starters sampled included empanadas with picadillo filling, a dusting of powdered sugar and spicy pepper aoli for dipping. Petite and flaky, they had an addictive quality that made us toy with the idea of placing a second order.

My favorite, however, had to be the Pato – moist duck confit served with mini buttermilk biscuits, mascarpone, and sweet and spicy rocoto jam.

It's a rare day when I order a hamburger in a sit-down restaurant, but I couldn't resist it here. The deal of the century, the hamburguesa is a fat, juicy beef patty embellished with prosciutto, manchego cheese and Romesco (a Catalan roasted red pepper and almond spread) ketchup served on house made, toasted ciabatta. The accompanying yucca chips failed to thrill, but my expectations weren’t high to begin with. Besides, I couldn’t even begin to wrangle this Gaudi-esque burger masterpiece and had to take half of it home.

Ropa vieja was the best I've ever tasted, having a depth of flavor and tenderness that can only be derived from long, slow braising with pungent veggies and spices. Easily separating into tender ribbons, it was served with creamy, coarsely-ground polenta and fried plantains.

Desserts are thoughtful and elegantly presented. Deconstructed dishes make some purists roll their eyes, and I agree that they can be overly contrived at times. But the Key lime pie and coconut, with its mounds of tangy custard spiked with shards of house-made graham cracker cookie, made it all the better to wallow in.

Likewise, my intensely-flavored, individual guava cheesecake presented atop a brushstroke of guava glacé was worth the extra elliptical penance.

I don’t find crema Catalana to be a particularly sexy sweet finish, but my better half bestowed kudos on Nineteen61’s version, commenting on the uniqueness of its intensely cinnamon-y, shattering sugar crust and chocolate ganache accompaniment.

This is a worthy date-night destination for residents of Polk County, East Hillsborough and others who don’t mind driving for a unique fine dining experience. Chef Fernandez is readily apparent and bustles about the restaurant, checking on each individual table to ensure that his offerings are meeting expectations. A must-try for Latin food junkies.

www.nineteen61.com

My blog entries contain the unmitigated, and sometimes unforgiving, dining truths and perceptions I experience as an ordinary restaurant patron. Every meal I post about has been fully paid for by one of the participating members of my personal dining party. I do not engage in the gratis blogger freebie dining events I'm constantly invited to attend and never will. If I ooze font-like love for a restaurant in my blog, it's because they totally earned it…not because they gave me free food or knew I was going to share the experience on the internet.

Armani's, Tampa, FL

2016-01-31T19:55:00.001-05:00

Oh, Armani's...how have I managed to eschew you for the past couple of decades? Admittedly, I do tend to turn my nose up at most hotel restos...mainly because the very thought of them makes me yawn. You, however, dispelled every preconceived notion I ever had when I dined with you on my birthday this month.

First of all, the view overlooking Tampa Bay to the west and the Courtney Campbell Causeway is a seriously stunning, so-romantic-your-clothes-practically-fall-off-on-their-own aphrodisiac. Add in the sleek, contemporary vibe and stellar service, off-the-chain sexy cuisine and you're done. You've been successfully wooed. Any indiscretions you may indulge in after the fact are totally beyond your control.

Because my annual bogus New Year's resolution to lose 10 lbs. was already in full swing, I was forced into the heartbreaking position of trying to eat low-carb at a celebratory dinner. At the end of the day, however, it was much easier than I could've imagined.

We were presented with warm, crusty bread and tapenade right off the bat. I only know it was warm and crusty because I touched it...certainly, not a morsel of it passed my lips. Well, perhaps just a tiny crumb. A girl only turns 39 a dozen or so times.

The gleaming, swoonworthy antipasto bar made it easy to be good. We each began with the chef's selection of assorted marinated veggies, shellfish, meats and cheeses.

No celebration is complete without foie gras, which was fortuitously featured a as a special appetizer on this particular evening. Accented with a berry reduction and pistachios, the perfectly seared lobe was truly a veryfine thing.

UD selected the starter of Crab Granchio - lump crab meat presented atop a truffled pea puree. A study in elegance, it was a stunning dish and the deal of the century for $12.

As we continued to pull out the stops, hubs slurped a silken trough of sherry-laced lobster bisque laden with generously-sized crustacean morsels...

...while I attempted to stay on the path of righteousness by ordering a Caesar salad. If there was anything I tasted at Armani's that I would not order again, it would be this. One definitely needs to be a garlic-and-anchovy lover to the highest power to fully appreciate this salad. While it was crisp and fresh, it was also heavily redolent with pungent odors and flavors that might best be avoided on date night...although its powerful punch will certainly hold appeal for some.

My grilled beef filet and lobster tail with creamed spinach and charred tomato beurre blanc was a classic and perfectly executed dish. As far as I'm concerned, nothing says "Happy Birthday" quite like surf and turf!

UD never met a veal chop he didn't like, and Armani's Cotoletta alla Griglia was no exception. He proclaimed it "exquisitely prepared" and "more flavorful than most"...high praise from this carnivorous cave man. Because cruciferous veggies are his Kryptonite, the accompanying cauliflower gratin was not as well received as it could've been...but sweet, caramelized cippolini onions worked overtime to turn his frown upside down.

Although I bitterly resisted ordering dessert, our incredibly caring and attentive server, Qasim, wasn't having any of it and I was presented with a complimentary slab of creamily dreamy tiramisu. It would've been rude not to at least take a bite.

Dinner at Armani's is an exquisite, highly sensory experience. Yes, it's expensive...but somewhat less so than I expected. Highly recommended for a Big Night Out.

www.armanis.com

My blog entries contain the unmitigated, and sometimes unforgiving, dining truths and perceptions I experience as an ordinary restaurant patron. Every meal I post about has been fully paid for by one of the participating members of my personal dining party. I do not engage in the gratis blogger freebie dining events I'm constantly invited to attend and never will. If I ooze font-like love for a restaurant in my blog, it's because they totally earned it…not

Mad Beach Craft Brewing, Madeira Beach, FL

2016-01-31T17:29:00.000-05:00

Ordinarily, the only thing that appeals to me less than wading through the slow-moving human wall of tourons and navigating the painful pay-station parking in John's Pass Village is being chained up in a Super Wal-Mart on Black Friday. Still, I have occasionally made the sacrifice to get my fix of smoked fish spread at Waltz Fish Shak or a lobster roll at The Boardwalk Grill. I don’t know whether to be thrilled or agonized by the fact that I now have added incentive to do so.

Mad Beach Brewing Company opened in October of 2014 as a taphouse only, featuring an eclectic selection of house-brewed craft beers, ales, ciders and local wine. In late December of 2015, it morphed into full-blown brew pub with the addition of chef Tyson Williams, formerly of the Baystar Restaurant Group.

The venue is cavernous, boisterous and industrial-chic, with miles of stainless bars, long communal tables and four-tops. This is not a romantic date-night destination or a place to rendezvous for serious conversation. With its multiple jumbo flat screen TVs, pool tables, air hockey, dart boards, corn-hole, giant Jenga, live music and more going on, it’s a veritable Chuck E. Cheese for grown-ups where the “littles” are also welcome (a kids’ menu is available). Being a restaurant that is both adult-oriented and family-friendly is a fine line to walk, but Mad Beach Craft Brewing Company admirably manages it.

The menu offers Caribbean and southern inspired pub and comfort food classics - beer-infused whenever it makes sense, which is always a good idea as far as I’m concerned. Appetizers include escalated versions of several pub staples like craft beer cheese dip, Buffalo wings, sliders, pulled pork nachos and the particularly hearty and homey Tots Poutine (crunchy, seasoned tots topped with melting cheese curds, house made stout gravy and fried sage).

Sandwiches are lumberjack sized, range in price from $8 burgers to $15 for locally sourced grouper, and are served on sweet Cuban-style coca rolls. My fried grouper selection was a real stunner – what had to be close to 8 ounces of the flaky fish was delicately breaded with a roll in seasoned flour, a dip in buttermilk and light dredge in more flour. Topped with Swiss cheese and nestled atop a bed of arugula and cilantro crema, it was one of the finest I’ve ever wrapped my lips around. Still, it may have been trumped by my better half’s $9 selection of The Beer Belly – house brined roasted pork belly, bacon, arugula, tomato, more of the crema, guava jelly and beer battered onion rings piled onto another of the sweet, pillowy buns. In his words, “the best sandwich ever created by man”, this nefariously decadent beast would be best served with a sidecar of Lipitor. Then, for those who scoff at danger and laugh in the face of arterial plaque, there’s the Jelly Donut Burger – a beef patty sandwiched between two glazed donuts with raspberry jelly, bacon and smoked cheddar. You can’t make this stuff up.

Similarly, the BBQ pulled pork sandwich is worth the calories. Marinated in ale (but, of course!), roasted, shredded into juicy tendrils and tossed in mango-rum-scotch bonnet barbecue sauce, the end result is heaped atop a salted pretzel roll and lavished with sharp cheddar and slaw.

All of this decadence notwithstanding, there are options available for the health conscious. In the interest of journalistic reporting, I sampled the lightest of the four available entrees on my second visit – Square Grouper. Wrapped in parchment and roasted with herbs and veggies, it was cooked to moist perfection. The accompaniment of fluffy green tea infused rice studded with pineapple bits and coconut, redolent with the scent of cilantro and ginger kept me from getting as sulky as I usually do when I try to watch my calories in a restaurant.

Let’s talk sides. Although there are far greater injustices in the universe, chomping into an onion ring and having the not-fully-cooked scalding center slide out and slap me on the chin is one First World Problem that never fails to make me inordinately cranky. Second degree burns need not be feared here, however. Battered in a combo of four ales, Mad Beach’s crunchy O-rings yield easily to the tooth while remaining solidly encased in their crusty exterior.

Southern Style Sweet Potato Casserole will make you wonder how you ever got through life without it. Laced with butter, brown sugar, cinnamon and house brewed yam ale, the indulgence factor is ratcheted into to the “OMG You DIDN’T” category by way of pecan praline and toasted marshmallows. Easily doubles as dessert.

One might also consider Fire Roasted Jalapeno Mac & Cheese. It’s ridiculous. Fat, corkscrew pasta noodles slurp up the Mornay sauce they’re lolling in along with bacon and roasted pepper bits. Topped with a bed of cheddar, a sprinkling of toasted breadcrumbs and a bacon rosette, the result is a study in American pasta sensuality.

And then came Peanut Butter Cup Bread Pudding.

Presenting a surprisingly subtle and adult-like flavor, this dessert combines barley and wheat from the brewhouse mixed with bread chunks, chocolate, peanut butter and cinnamon-vanilla custard. Ice cream, whipped cream and chocolate syrup are all piled atop it, however, lest you forget your inner child. Not a peanut butter fan? Key Lime Crème Brulee and a Toasted Marshmallow Banana Split are also available.

Good times, good beer and good food make me a fan of this Mad Beach fun spot.

www.madbeachbrewing.com

My blog entries contain the unmitigated, and sometimes unforgiving, dining truths and perceptions I experience as an ordinary restaurant patron. Every meal I post about has been fully paid for by one of the participating members of my personal dining party. I do not engage in the gratis blogger freebie dining events I'm constantly invited to attend and never will. If I ooze font-like love for a restaurant in my blog, it's because they totally earned it…not because they gave me free food or knew I was going to share the experience on the internet.

Grey Salt, Tampa, FL

2016-01-16T20:18:00.000-05:00

As a Brandon area resident, I am painfully aware that upscale dining options are few and far between in East Hillsborough County…but here’s some welcome news! We got an early Christmas present just before Thanksgiving with the debut of the eagerly-anticipated Grey Salt, a collaboration of celebrated New York chef (and judge on the Food Network series “Chopped”) Marc Murphy and the Seminole Hard Rock Hotel and Casino. I’ll admit that, justifiably or not, visiting restaurants with “celebrity” chef pedigrees invariably makes me a little starry-eyed and I couldn’t wait to check this one out.

For me, a casino always feels like the odd juxtaposition of a Technicolor dream world filled with endless possibilities and a sad fog of Marlboro smoke, cheap cologne and desperation. Per usual, I got sucked into the vortex as I wound my way from the casino entrance to the hostess station, trying to hold my breath while making multiple detours and compulsively dropping – and losing - several $20s on slots (money and I always seem to be quickly parted when something shiny catches my eye). The 30 minute “journey” turned out to be worth it, lighter wallet notwithstanding.

The 240-seat restaurant is almost surprisingly tranquil considering the raucous den of hedonism it’s nestled in, flaunting sleek, contemporary lines and a subdued, neutral palette stunningly accented by a wall of backlit jars of canary-hued preserved lemons. A gleaming open kitchen with a wood-burning grill provides a secondary focal point.

The Mediterranean-inspired menu is comprised of locally sourced seafood, house made pasta dishes, flatbreads and roasted or fire-grilled meat, poultry and fish. Appetizers range in price from $9 for Soup of the Day to $20 for the Grey Salt Charcuterie Board and entrees will set you back $26 to $59. The menu is a la carte, so things can (and do) add up quickly with the inclusion of salads and sides – albeit not surprisingly considering the venue and the quality of the cuisine. Tables do get a complimentary drop of grilled pita wedges and some really fine hummus bursting with bright, lemony flavor, however.

My party raved over the roasted oysters with parsley, butter and lemon ($18 for a dozen, nicely separated into two portions for sharing), which were perfect in their simplicity. I’ve gotten a little spoiled of late by restaurants like The Mill and Annata in St. Pete, who offer mix-and-match charcuterie boards accented with a plethora of tasty accoutrements like Marcona almonds, jams, honeycomb and the like. Grey Salt’s rendition has no options and the meats are simply presented with pickled veggies, mostarda and crostini. Still, ours was an attractively plated and generously portioned plank.

The sight of flatbread on a menu generally does little to inspire me and I rarely order one, but was intrigued by the clam and chorizo option with dandelion greens. Bitter greens and pork are already a match made in heaven, and the briny sweetness of the clams provided a nice foil for the acridity of the dandelion and the spice of the sausage. The flatbread itself was thin, crispy and well-done -- pleasantly wafting of char from the grill and sturdily supporting its toppings. Priced at $18, it was substantial enough to be a meal for most and made me feel quite pleased with my decision to give it a shot.

Like any good carnivore, my resident caveman fell upon his juicy and flavorful cow chop – the 24 oz. Prime Bistecca alla Florentina – with gusto, but was ultimately defeated by its heft and toted the remainder home for another meal. This is a steak that can easily be shared by two, making its $59 price tag a little more palatable. The roasted duck breast with dried fruit mostarda was similarly well-executed and cooked to a nicely precise medium rare, as requested, although the portion seemed light for $32 with no accompaniments. A shareable side order of crushed potatoes with Parmesan was also sampled, which proved to be pretty remarkable. Tiny and multi-colored, the tender orbs had crusty, golden-brown exteriors, creamy centers, and were lavished with a fine confetti of cheesy goodness.

Typically suspicious of any dessert that doesn’t demand the penance of several extra hours on the treadmill, I went rogue and ordered fruit to help me ramp up for that veryshortlived lie of a New Year’s Resolution I pledge every January. It almost pains me to say it, but I will. The grilled pineapple spear with its caramelized edges and succulent center might’ve been my favorite aspect of this meal. Accented with mascarpone, Moroccan honey and pistachio, it was a candy-like marvel.

At the end of the day, Grey Salt’s price point and location are less than ideal for many restaurant diners and there are definitely better options if you're willing to drop the kind of coin it demands. Still, it’s a solid destination for high-rollers and celebratory dinners – especially for residents living near the I-75 corridor.

www.greysalt-restaurant.com

My blog entries contain the unmitigated, and sometimes unforgiving, dining truths and perceptions I experience as an ordinary restaurant patron. Every meal I post about has been fully paid for by one of the participating members of my personal dining party. I do not engage in the gratis blogger freebie dining events I'm constantly invited to attend and never will. If I ooze font-like love for a restaurant in my blog, it's because they totally earned it…not because they gave me free food or knew I was going to share the experience on the internet.

Hog Island Fish Camp, Dunedin, FL

2015-12-24T17:13:00.000-05:00

As a southerner and a casual seafood restaurant devotee, my heart always beats a little faster when a place bills itself as a “fish camp”. Fish camps sprang up along the riverbanks of the southeastern United States in the ‘30s and ‘40s in the form of rustic sheds where anglers could purchase bait, rent tackle, and then later convene with other area fisherman to clean and fry their catches (and hang out with the boys, of course). At some point, an opportunity was recognized and larger camps began offering pavilion-style seating, drinks and side dishes to their patrons. Over the years, the term “fish camp” has morphed into a term used to describe an affordable restaurant specializing in heaping servings of fried fish and southern comfort food…and what’s not to love about that?

Located in the building formerly occupied by Sam’s Fresh Seafood, the vibe at Hog Island is convivial and rustic with plenty of repurposed wood, trophy fish nailed to the walls and directional signs in case you didn’t leave a trail of breadcrumbs when you drove up from Key West.

All of this, plus a cold beer and a fried grouper sandwich, would be all I needed to make my life complete. But there’s so much more to this unassuming restaurant. The menu cuts a broader swathe than one might expect, offering over 20 craft beers on tap, cocktails and an extensive selection of wines (by the glass and bottle) to satisfy every taste and budget. Then there’s the food.

A trio of house made spreads (pimento cheese, smoked mullet and smoked salmon) proved to be an excellent choice for staving off hunger pangs while perusing the menu.

On my first visit, my party and I sampled locally sourced hogfish (both fried and blackened) with better than average hand cut frites and crispy cole slaw; feather-lightly breaded salt and pepper fried oysters; and a mound of juicy, prepared to order buttermilk fried chicken dinner that was SO worth the 30 minute wait the menu warned us about. “Fried” is the word du jour at Hog Island, so don’t get crazy and try to count calories here. You can always make an attempt at damage control by eating salad later.

Salt and Pepper Fried Hogfish

All side dishes sampled elicited raves – especially the dense, cast iron skillet corn bread studded with bacon bits. Remarkable. Similarly, sweet, butter pan fried (again) corn set everyone’s imaginary tails to wagging along with a trough of smoky collard greens liberally peppered with pork morsels. Hush puppies were light, airy and non-greasy.

While the generous sandwich and entrée portions (most come with two sides) will be more than most bellies can handle in one sitting, you don’t want to miss an opportunity to tuck into the hearty, tomato broth-based Bay Bottom Chowder packed with scallops, shrimp and fish. It’s a “must-try” and practically a meal in itself.

Red meat lovers need not despair…there are plenty of menu option for you, including hanger, pork and sirloin steaks. On visit #2, a gorgeous, ribbon-textured pulled pork sandwich lavished in zippy sweet-and-spicy barbecue sauce, white cheddar and house bread and butter pickles left me crying “uncle” before I could finish it. I’d be remiss if I didn’t bestow kudos on the tender roll with the beautifully egg-shellacked surface it was presented on. My side of Mac and Cheese was not my granny’s version. Surprisingly sophisticated, fat pasta tubes were presented lazing in a subtly cheesy béchamel sauce beneath a golden, breadcrumb crust.

Underdog's melt-in-your-mouth Cheer Wine Glazed Ribs literally slid off of the bone of their own accord.

While I was little bummed that no house-made desserts are offered here (Mike’s Pies and a couple of other pre-fabs are the only options), it was probably a blessing in disguise.

If you needed another reason to visit Dunedin’s charming shops and waterfront vista, here it is. Easy for two to dine heartily here for around $60 with beer and wine.

www.hogislandfishcamp.com

My blog entries contain the unmitigated, and sometimes unforgiving, dining truths and perceptions I experience as an ordinary restaurant patron. Every meal I post about has been fully paid for by one of the participating members of my personal dining party. I do not engage in the gratis blogger freebie dining events I'm constantly invited to attend and never will. If I ooze font-like love for a restaurant in my blog, it's because they totally earned it…not because they gave me free food or knew I was going to share the experience on the internet.

Mátyás Pince, Budapest, Hungary

2015-12-08T12:37:00.001-05:00

When in Rome, do as the Romans do...correct? Or, in our case, do as the Hungarians do.

While in Budapest during our recent Viking River Cruise, we decided to skip the ship food and seek out a bona fide Hungarian dining experience. As luck would have it, the bartender on duty was Hungarian and didn't hesitate to draw us a map to Mátyás Pince (which was fortuitously located only a short walk from where we were docked). This 100+ year old restaurant charmed us upon entry with its starched linens, sparkling glassware, professional waitstaff, live Gypsy music and authentic Hungarian and Renaissance decor. Suffering mightily from jet-lag, our drooping eyelids forced us there at the most European-ungodly dining hour of 6:00 PM, which explains the empty venue. It was filling up nicely by the time we finished a leisurely 2-hour dinner and headed back to the Njord, however.

Warm, crusty bread and sparkling wine were dispensed while we perused the menu. Doesn't this look romantic?

We started with Rare Muscovy Duck Breast stuffed with duck liver and presented on a bed of greens...

...and a selection of Royal Pâtés. Liver was present in abundance on Mátyás Pince's menu, which always earns my great favor.

We both then proceeded to slurp the proffered bowls of classic Hungarian beef goulash soup, which was far more amazing than I ever would've expected and nothing like anything I've ever tasted in the U.S. that was labeled "goulash" - thinner, more "noodly" and laden with hearty chunks of beef.

Settling on an entree selection was so difficult that my final decision practically came down to a coin toss. Offerings all sounded homey and comforting, ranging from roasted goose leg to bacon-wrapped pork tenderloin, to beef cheek braised in carrot sauce with dumplings...the tantalizing list of options never seemed to end. I chose wisely with my Steak Budapest-Style, which was served atop potato croquettes and a pool of veggie ragout. The fact that it was crowned with a slab of goose liver and a giant broiled mushroom cap took it over the top. Folks, we have a winner!

I thought UD's sirloin chop with fried potatoes, bacon and onions looked a little "ugly stepsister-ish" by comparison, but I didn't hear any complaints.

Desserts were off the chain. My better half's plum strudel packed a fruity punch and was served with a brandy-laced prune ragout.

HOWEVER...it was trumped by my Gundel pancakes flambéed in rum. Oh, did I mention that they were filled with ground walnuts, slathered in chocolate sauce and set afire at the table?

Such a fabulous dining experience...and one that I'll remember for the rest of my life.

www.matyaspince.com

Donatello, Tampa, FL

2015-12-01T12:58:00.002-05:00

Some things never go out of style - like starched linens; fresh roses on every table; top notch live entertainment; impeccable service from a swarthy, tuxedo-clad staff; and exquisite, classic Italian cuisine. I don’t throw this compliment around lightly, but my recent dining experience at Donatello was the finest I’ve had in Hillsborough County in years ...and I’ve eaten just about everywhere (food being my #1 hobby). It was, quite simply, opulence on steroids.

I can’t guarantee that you’ll get to first base by taking the object of your desire to Donatello, but you’ll certainly have no one but yourself to blame if you don’t. Romance orchestrates itself and all you have to do is shower and show up. This a destination for leveraging your expense account or taking your beloved out for a milestone anniversary, a marriage proposal, or to repent for an almost unforgivable act. My first thought upon being seated was, “I want to stay here all night”. And then, they let me. No one is trying to quickly turn tables here.

While the menu is comprised mostly of Northern Italian dishes, there are nods aplenty to various regions throughout the country. Warm, crusty bread and brightly fresh bruschetta are presented upfront. Appetizers sampled by my party were plump scallops gratinate presented on the shell; house pate (a rustic chicken liver version) and fresh mussels in a zesty marinara sauce (nicely divided into two servings at our request) that no one could resist going all "fare la scarpetta" on. Yep, we sopped it all up with our bread…good manners notwithstanding. It was too delish to waste a drop.

You definitely want to start with the traditional Caesar salad – cold, crisp and redolent of garlic, anchovies, lemon and Parmesan cheese, just as God intended. I don’t have enough superlatives in my vocabulary to do justice to this leafy masterpiece. You want it. Make sure your date orders it too, though. Did I mention “garlic”?

The extensive main course offerings include a plethora of beef, seafood and chicken entrees, but the house-made pasta dishes all sound so swoon-worthy that it almost feels wrong not take that direction. Protip to my fellow (sometimes) Atkins dieters, just take the day off because it’s impossible to navigate safely here.

Two of us tried Linguini Al Granchio (pasta in white wine sauce tossed with caramelized garlic slivers and luxe chunks of lump crabmeat) which was ridiculous in its indulgence factor with a nice snap of heat on the end. It ties for the best pasta dish I’ve ever eaten with the unforgettable bowl of fiocchetti with pears. ricotta and Parmesan cream I had the fortune to tuck into at Trattoria 4 Leoni in Florence (Italy, not Alabama) a few years ago.

Similarly, the classic Bolognese, a hearty and homey dish comprised of tomatoes simmered with a “soffritto” of onions, celery and carrots along with beef and pork, was a stick-to-your-ribs kind of meal with the sauce clinging nicely to its bed of creamy, al dente pasta.

My carnivorous cave man’s veal scaloppini with imported Italian ham, mushrooms and truffle in white wine sauce was a fork-tender and umami-riche wonder, flanked with sautéed veggies and a crispy potato croquette. I offered to split my entrée in the interest of mutual reciprocity, but he’s never been much of a team player.

No one had any room for sweet finishes, but we ordered a couple of them anyway (in the interest of journalistic documentation). The Napoleon, layers of creamy custard sandwiched between sheets of airy puff pastry, was a cross-cultural taste sensation. If ordered, prepare to lose consciousness as you slide your spoon through the textural contrast of this European classic. This is a creation that can go south quickly if left to sit, but Donatello’s version had zero sogginess factor.

And, then…just when I thought the bar had been set…lemon gelato appeared, the likes of which I’ve never experienced before. The ultimate palate-cleanser, this extraordinary dessert rolled the richness of ice cream and the intense citrusy flavor of sorbet into one remarkable frozen concoction.

At the end of the evening, long-stemmed red roses are dispensed to the female patrons in a thoughtful finishing touch. As much as I hesitate to show favoritism, Donatello rules when it comes to upscale dining in Hillsborough County.

www.donatellotampa.com

My blog entries contain the unmitigated, and sometimes unforgiving, dining truths and perceptions I experience as an ordinary restaurant patron. Every meal I post about has been fully paid for by one of the participating members of my personal dining party. I do not engage in the gratis blogger freebie dining events I'm constantly invited to attend and never will. If I ooze font-like love for a restaurant in my blog, it's because they totally earned it…not because they gave me free food or knew I was going to share the experience on the internet.

Urban Comfort, St. Petersburg, FL

2015-10-31T17:58:00.001-04:00

We all have another reason to visit St. Pete’s charming Grand Central District. I will be the first to admit that Urban Comfort struck (and strummed) a nostalgic chord in my native Tennessean heart. Situated in a repurposed 1950’s gas station on Central Avenue, the architectural integrity of the structure and its era has been well preserved and the interior remains delightfully gritty. There’s covered bench seating outdoors (with shuffleboard courts in the works) and utilitarian stainless booth seating within. Don’t go to Urban Comfort expecting an extensive menu, a wine list, haute cuisine or a refined ambiance, because you’ll not be getting any of that. Food is served on aluminum trays and beverages are dispensed in cute Mason jars.

What you will get is unabashed comfort food - fine renditions of classic Sunday supper style offerings and a short list of signature cocktails, craft beers (soon which will all be brewed on the premises) and a handful of house wines. And, great news! At Urban Comfort, you may indulge without fear of Aunt June’s pearl clutching and conniption fits that are often associated with daring to crack a cold one at a bona fide Sabbath dinner in the Bible Belt. Don’t ask me how I know this.

Appetizers are limited to fried green tomatoes, fish spread, hush puppies with smoked Gouda sauce, house-cured bacon and a seasonal selection. The fish spread is a chunky, sturdy version served with cool and crunchy veggies, buttery crackers and a little crock of the restaurant’s signature Urban Hot Sauce. The hot sauce is a life affirming elixir with a velvety texture and a subtle “slow burn” that I’m praying will be available by the bottle someday (preferably next week).

I could cheerfully eat the house-cured bacon app for breakfast every day for the rest of my life. The melt-in-your-mouth slabs of pork belly show up resting atop a creamy bed of grits which have been simmered in chicken stock and laced with a hint of maple syrup. I haven’t often found grits that were prepared to the proper consistency in the greater Tampa Bay area, but Comfort nailed it on my visit.

Entrees do not easily accommodate dieters and range in price from $9 to $15. Portions are huge and inclusive of sides. This is where things get deliciously carb-and-caloric-crazy.

The crunchy and succulent fried chicken (two pieces with one side and a fluffy, golden edged biscuit for $10 or four for $14.50) will have you sucking the bones and your fingers – so check your dignity at the door, bring your wet naps and go all in. Similarly, indulging in the juicy $13 chicken fried pork chops smothered in white bacon gravy might be worth eating leaves for the rest of the week. As a side note, deep fried foods are remarkably light(ish) and non-greasy here.

Chicken and dumplings are a respectable rendition and presented in their own cast iron skillet. I get annoyed by underuse of poultry leg quarters and appreciate the fact that both dark and white meat are represented here. Homey and laden with fresh herbs and veggies, this is what grownups want when we miss our mommies.

My $9 half order of fresh catch and hushpuppies may have excited me the least of everything sampled. The “catch” was grouper, which was fried to a fairly wan finish. Still, it was sweet and cooked through. Plus, I’m enamored of the tangy caper sauce that stood in for traditional tartar. Hushpuppies were a tad heavy and grainy, but the biscuit was angelic.

Sides sampled were bacon butter beans simmered in pork fat well beyond the al dente state (as decreed by law in the south), otherworldly mashed potatoes slathered in more of that previously referenced bacon gravy and a seasonal yellow squash casserole baked with layers of cheese and a Ritz cracker crust…just like the one I grew up with.

Urban Comfort provides just that, along with a sidecar of nostalgia. Excellent for families, couples and the budget conscious (most entrees will have you packing enough leftovers for lunch the next day).

www.urbancomfortstpete.com

Mad Beach Fish House, Madeira Beach, FL

2015-10-13T21:59:00.003-04:00

I have to love a seafood restaurant that doubles as a fish market...which is Mad Fish's MO. UD and I arrived on an early Sunday evening and proceeded to relish in the cool(ish) October breeze and a postcard picture perfect view from the outdoor terrace.

Our server was sweet, laid back and beach-efficient. If you dine often at local casual waterfront establishments, you know what this means (unpretentious and unrushed, but in a good way). We started with an exceptional house-made smoked fish spread comprised of mullet and mahi. SO good, and boasting big chunks of fish, pleasing veggie accents and minimal binder...unlike a soupy, wan and gag-worthy version we tried at Conch Republic a couple of weeks ago (just say "no").

I love breaded and deep-fried seafood. I know that's not a particularly sophisticated admission for me to make, but you'll get no apologies. I was raised in the Bible Belt where no kitchen was complete without a FryDaddy. The heart wants what it wants.

Mad Beach Fish House offers a nice, affordable selection of fried seafood baskets with choices like Gulf shrimp, scallops, whole belly clams, oysters and whitefish, all priced at under $11.00. I couldn't even finish my generous basket of freshly shucked and lightly fried oysters served with crispy fries, crunchy hush puppies and a little sidecar of slaw.

My beloved's whole deep-fried hogfish, however, took the cake on this particular dining excursion. The scored and perfectly cooked specimen was enrobed in a bible-thin, golden brown cloak and boasted an almost ethereal sweet and juicy interior. Spicy red beans and rice proved to be a tasty side dish (which was offered alongside other options like cheese grits, cole slaw, potato salad and corn on the cob).

Mad Beach Fish House does a mostly better-than-average job with its casual seafood fare, which is dished up in a beachside, touron-riche environment. Pleasing, relaxing and affordable.

www.madbeachfishhouse.com

My blog entries contain the unmitigated, and sometimes unforgiving, dining truths and perceptions I experience as an ordinary restaurant patron. Every meal I post about has been fully paid for by one of the participating members of my personal dining party. I do not engage in the gratis blogger freebie dining events I'm constantly invited to attend and never will. If I ooze font-like love for a restaurant in my blog, it's because they totally earned it…not because they gave me free food or knew I was going to share the experience on the internet.

Bravas Bar de Tapas, Healdsburg, CA

2015-09-27T19:27:00.001-04:00

Well, better late than never. I've been back from California wine country for four weeks now and am finally getting around to sharing one of the best tapas experiences I've ever had. Travel + Leisure named Bravas Bar de Tapas "one of the top 20 tapas restaurants in the U.S." and, after dining there, I'm on board with that assessment. I've eaten a lot of tapas and the only places that rival Bravas (in my experience) are The Iberian Pig in Atlanta and Cúrate in Asheville.
First of all, the resto is stupidly adorable (as are most in the Napa/Sonoma area). Small, cozy, pork-scented and convivial, UD and I were salivating from the moment we walked in.

Although we had rezzies, there was a short wait for our table when we arrived so we snagged a couple of seats at the bar. When it immediately became apparent that we'd been blessed with a madly skilled and attentive bartender, we decided to remain there for the duration of our meal.

The tapas menu was so ridiculous in its indulgence factor that it was really tough to drill down to our final selections. We started with a pair of bocadillo offerings: juicy duck meatballs with tomato sofrito and green olive tapenade...

...and (Mommy's fave) foie gras, crispy Serrano ham and "backyard marmalade". Honestly, if I had to choose only one thing to eat for the rest of my life, this would probably be it. Tender, earthy, salty, chewy, sweet...every component was there in these little buns of decadence. The best $12 I ever spent.

We nibbled on some caramelized on the outside-creamy on the inside patatas bravas with spicy tomato sauce and aioli while we pondered our next move. These aren't your daddy's french fries.

Underdog seemed to have a Labrador Retriever-esque fascination with a crispy pig ears and anchovy vinaigrette offering, so I snorted some smelling salts, acquiesced and even tasted one. Emboldened by sangria, I found it tasty (skeevy factor notwithstanding) with a flavor and texture not unlike the pork "cracklins" mom used to put in our cornbread when I was growing up in Tennessee.

My second favorite taste sensation of the evening was the Dungeness Crab Fideua...a riff on paella with toasted vermicelli standing in for the rice. This sexy little skillet was crammed with both crab and flavor. Good gawd!

For dessert, my beloved opted for the Straus Family Organic Soft-Serve with his topping selection. We don't remember what that topping was due to the fact that copious amounts of sangria had been consumed by the time it arrived. We only remember that it was remarkable.

My "Tapas 24" (chocolate mousse quenelles spiked with tangerine oil and sea salt, then garnished with walnut crisp), will never be forgotten. It was luxe, dense, intensely chocolaty, and delightfully scented with citrus. The sprinkling of salt crystals beautifully offset its sweetness. This is the ultimate grown-up chocolate dessert.

Bravas Bar de Tapas is one of the finest dining destinations in California wine country. The price structure is astonishingly moderate, with most small plates priced at under $10. Service is unpretentious and superb. A must-do in Healdsburg.

www.starkrestaurants.com/bravas

My blog entries contain the unmitigated, and sometimes unforgiving, dining truths and perceptions I experience as an ordinary restaurant patron. Every meal I post about has been fully paid for by one of the participating members of my personal dining party. I do not engage in the gratis blogger freebie dining events I'm constantly invited to attend and never will. If I ooze font-like love for a restaurant in my blog, it's because they totally earned it…not because they gave me free food or knew I was going to share the experience on the internet.

Bistro Jeanty, Yountville, CA

2015-09-07T19:02:00.000-04:00

Since I've yet to stumble upon bad food on my semi-annual pilgrimage to the Napa/Sonoma area of California, prepare yourself for another onslaught of high praise, superlative adjectives and drool-inducing photos of the cuisine UD and I sampled at the exquisite Bistro Jeanty.

For starters, look how cute it is! Loved the Parisian vibe it threw off, both inside and out.

Service was immaculate perfection. Our man of the hour was charming, knowledgeable and warm, which is pretty much the standard in wine country. He started us off with a complimentary basket of the best warm and crusty French bread I've ever put in my mouth while we perused the menu. I usually don't like to fill up on pre-entree carbs, but must admit that I polished it off almost single-handedly before our first courses arrived.

Wanting to savor a variety of items, UD and I opted to share a selection of small plates. While some diners my cringe at the very idea of $12.50 bowl of soup, the creamy tomato soup topped with a Jiffy Pop-esque dome of puff pastry was worth every penny and almost catapulted us into sensory overload. This luxurious trough of goodness was a silken study in tangy decadence and more than enough for two to share.

Since my beloved can never resist an opportunity to wrap his Neanderpaws around a femur filled with caramelized "meat butter" and fall upon it like a primal caveman, ordering the stellar Roasted Bone Marrow "Bordelaise" was a foregone conclusion.

And, since a day without foie gras is like a day without sunshine, I zeroed right in on the Foie Gras Tourchon (spreadable disks of earthy, umami goodness presented with toast points and locally made apricot preserves for balance). Unforgettable.

The hub's Quenelles de Brochet (tender little pike dumplings with lobster sauce) tasted ocean fresh and practically melted on the tongue.

Then, the most redonkulous dessert ever known to man showed up...Tarte au Citron. The best way this epicurean redneck can think of to describe it is as a highly escalated version of those Jello 1-2-3 desserts from the '70s. Intensely flavored layers of citrus custard and meringue were piled atop one of the most fabulous pastry crusts I've ever encountered to create an intoxicating, one-of-a-kind sweet finish.

Good times. California is a food lover's paradise...believe the hype.

www.bistrojeanty.com

My blog entries contain the unmitigated, and sometimes unforgiving, dining truths and perceptions I experience as an ordinary restaurant patron. Every meal I post about has been fully paid for by one of the participating members of my personal dining party. I do not engage in the gratis blogger freebie dining events I'm constantly invited to attend and never will. If I ooze font-like love for a restaurant in my blog, it's because they totally earned it…not because they gave me free food or knew I was going to share the experience on the internet.

Original Pizza, Redington Shores, FL

2015-09-07T18:04:00.000-04:00

Original Pizza in Indian Shores is a new-ish and very clean family-friendly dining spot. Super-casual and uber affordable, the venue is popular and can get a little noisy when filled with happy patrons...so be prepared if you arrive during peak times. Still, the food price and quality serves to mitigate that fact, even for us introverts who prefer a quieter vibe. There's a short wine list and beer selection, plus we always receive pleasing service from the youthful, friendly and clean-cut staff (I'm pretty sure referring to a "clean-cut youth" makes me officially old). On a recent visit, an addictive complimentary basket of homemade garlic knots with marinara for dipping was presented to tide us over during the short wait for our menu selections.

My linguine in white wine sauce with fresh baby clams (about two dozen of them) shocked me by being one of the best versions I've ever eaten and the portion was so generous that I could only finish half. It was served with a simple salad. For less than $12, this may be the bargain of the century.

The spousal unit attempted to wrassle a behemoth meatball sandwich, but admitted defeat halfway through. Meatballs were huge, bread (baked on the premises) was hot and crispy on the outside/tender on the inside, house made marinara was tangy and fresh-tasting and the entire thing was blanketed in oozy, melted mozzarella.

We shared a ricotta-filled cannoli for dessert. All of this plus two pints of Shock Top for him and a pint of Bud Light plus a glass of Pinot Grigio for moi set us back a whopping $31.50 before gratuity.

The pizza is some of the best to be found on the Pinellas Beaches for my money and a generous hand is used when applying the toppings. Highly recommended for excellent cheap, casual beach fare.

www.originalpizzaindianshores.com

My blog entries contain the unmitigated, and sometimes unforgiving, dining truths and perceptions I experience as an ordinary restaurant patron. Every meal I post about has been fully paid for by one of the participating members of my personal dining party. I do not engage in the gratis blogger freebie dining events I'm constantly invited to attend and never will. If I ooze font-like love for a restaurant in my blog, it's because they totally earned it…not because they gave me free food or knew I was going to share the experience on the internet.

The Mill, St. Petersburg, FL

2015-09-05T11:48:00.001-04:00

Downtown St. Pete’s The Mill is off to a running start. The conceptualization of managing partners Ted Dorsey, former executive chef of Castile in St. Pete Beach’s Hotel Zamora and Jason Griffin, who is also well-tenured in the restaurant industry, their combined pedigree was evident in my almost seamless dining experience only three weeks after The Mill opened in late July.

Located on the ground floor of the Progress Plaza Building, the restaurant’s interior has a pleasing farmhouse-rustic-meets-industrial-chic vibe that’s turning up with greater frequency in the Tampa Bay area. Distressed wooden tables, denim seat covers, burlap sack-draped light fixtures and a mill wheel wall design set the tone for the escalated American classic cuisine being dispensed here.

The menu is more extensive than one might expect. My first thought was that such a new venue couldn’t possibly do THIS many things well; yet they do. Arranged in progressively-sized sections of First Plates, Second Plates and Third Plates ranging in price from $9 - $36, all appetites are accommodated and the wide array of offerings includes the likes of southern fried frog legs, braised rabbit and meatloaf Wellington.

Diners may build their own charcuterie platter from a selection of elements that reaches far beyond all the usual suspects, with options like house-made duck prosciutto, octopus bacon (oh, yes they DID) and a remarkable ocean-scented toro pastrami. Priced at 3 for $18, 5 for $25 and 7 for $32, all are served with crostini, mostarda, local honeycomb, Florida orange marmalade, baby zucchini pickles, malted rye mustard and bitter chocolate. My party’s stunning protein-laden plank of goodness elicited raves and included all of the aforementioned items as well as lengua rillette (beef tongue), foie gras tourchon, tallegio and bleu cheese.

A $19 Second Plate of porter glazed quail and wild game sausage with white bean salt pork cassoulette, port cherry relish and candied apple crisps was homey comfort food at its finest and substantial enough to satisfy my resident Y-chrome (he had to save room for dessert, after all).

My $25 fish and grits consisted of an ethereally breaded plank of sweet, farm raised rainbow trout perched atop a pool of nutty, blue corn Anson Mills grits and topped with a somewhat unnecessary drizzle of smoky pork Bolognese. Disclaimer: I’m a native Tennessean and can be a little resistant to having my traditional fish ‘n’ grits overly “messed with”.

A $22 Aspen Ridge flat iron steak (Pittsburgh style) was also sampled. Served with creamy baked redskin potatoes and a flavorful, al dente Swiss chard, the beef boasted a beautiful char and a juicy, warm red center.

Identifying desserts in Tampa Bay that make one say, “whoa…that’s different!” is a tough homework assignment. As much as I enjoyed everything I tasted at The Mill, the sweet finishes truly thrilled. Deep-dish walnut pie with bitter orange Chantilly and Fireball ginger reduction can best be described as pecan pie’s sexy younger sister. This decadent concoction consists of a mound of toasted walnuts (bound by just enough sticky goo to hold them together) piled into a tall, dense and flaky fortress. Both the crust and filling are both so remarkable that it’s tough to discern which the star of this dessert is.

Cheesecake at The Mill is also outstanding. Their “all grown up” version integrates local honeycomb, bee pollen brittle and flecks of black pepper that impart a surprisingly subtle contrast and adult flavor to this classic, creamy confection.

Last, but not least, the ultimate palate cleanser was delivered. Citrus junkies will first revel in nose-groping the Strawberry Lemonade Tart (macerated strawberries, lemon curd, candied Meyer lemon and moscato reduction) and then exult as the heady tang of this tart-meets-sweet ultimate lemon dessert hits the tongue.

Also, if you enjoy after-dinner coffee drinks, the Coco Mill with Kawha coffee, Oak & Palm coconut rum, Gran Duque d’Alba crème foam and shaved chocolate is a must order.

The Mill is another fantastic addition to the downtown St. Pete dining scene, open Tuesday through Sunday serving lunch, brunch and dinner.

www.themilldtsp.com

Cask Social Kitchen, Tampa, FL

2015-08-16T17:13:00.000-04:00

UD and I hauled ourselves from our phlegmy deathbed last Sunday afternoon after a week of tandem (and futile) crud-battling, desperate for sustenance that didn't involve a can of Campbell's. Our intrepid pal, Debbie Delight, joined us teeming, human petri dishes for what turned out to be a better-than-average brunch served up by this south Tampa newcomer. And guess who got to spend THIS weekend battling for her own life? Sorry, Deb.

We gurlz reveled in our Black Bubbles - little boozy Mason jars filled to the brim with Ketel One vodka, fresh blackberries, raspberry liqueur and sparkling wine. This is how mommy nurses a scratchy throat.

Our trio began with fat strips of candied bacon and saucer-sized, tender cheesy biscuits. Biscuits only failed to reach expectations due to fact that no butter was presented with them.

I selected the $11 "Sweet Belgian Bird" appetizer. Warm, airy sweet potato waffle triangles were presented with juicy, crispy buttermilk fried breast halves perched atop them. Spicy bourbon syrup rounded out this waistband-expanding indulgence (of which I could only shoehorn down 1/4). Lumberjacks may order a more substantial version (The Big Bird) for a few dollars more.

The comfort-seeking spousal unit loved his Cask Skillet, a big platter of homey goodness piled high with fried sweet and Idaho potatoes, cheese, eggs and sausage.

Non-conformist DD noshed on nasal-passage-opening "Duck Wings", which are really tender duck legs prepared confit-style, then coated in sticky orange Siracha glaze, scallions and toasted sesame (wet-naps required). Many restaurants have a tendency to overcook duck legs, so everyone appreciated the moist meatiness of these gorgeous gams.

While service failed to amaze, it was friendly and adequate. The space has that industrial urban chic vibe that seems to be all the rage right now and is pleasing, albeit a tad sterile. Overall, Cask seems like a good mid-priced option in South Tampa for casual dining. Looking forward to trying it again for lunch or dinner.

www.casksocial.com

My blog entries contain the unmitigated, and sometimes unforgiving, dining truths and perceptions I experience as an ordinary restaurant patron. Every meal I post about has been fully paid for by one of the participating members of my personal dining party. I do not engage in the gratis blogger freebie dining events I'm constantly invited to attend and never will. If I ooze font-like love for a restaurant in my blog, it's because they totally earned it…not because they gave me free food or knew I was going to share the experience on the internet.

Stillwaters Tavern, St. Petersburg, FL

2015-08-05T19:20:00.001-04:00

St. Petersburg’s Beach Drive “restaurant row” has a new jewel in its crown. The eagerly awaited Stillwaters Tavern opened in mid-June under the direction of Executive Chef Jeffrey Jew, a former Top Chef contender. Here, escalated classic American tavern dishes are being dispensed in a relaxing, industrial-chic and vaguely nautically-themed environ (sans portholes and fishing nets).

My two visits during Stillwaters’ first three weeks in business provided me a lot to be excited about. The service staff was already poised, knowledgeable and attentive on both occasions and management personnel were highly visible and diner-engaged.

Now to hit the high notes of dishes sampled:

The hearty, creamy Cedar Key Clam Chowder is some of the best New England style clam chowder that has ever passed my lips. Clams are freshly steamed in-shell (no “rubber bands” in this chowder). And it’s topped with shards of house-made saltines! To whom does the idea of making their own crackers even occur? My hero, that’s who. The $9.99 bowlful is practically a meal in itself, so order a mug if an entrée is also in your future.

Fried oyster nirvana was achieved via Chicken Fried Oysters with tangy whole grain mustard aioli for dipping. Served in a generous, piping hot mound, their golden, crunchy coats shattered on the tooth to reveal the succulent, briny treasures within. But wait…there’s more! Here and there, special guest appearances of deep-fried, house pickled veggies were interspersed to add interest.

My decision to order the Airline Chicken was based more upon the lure of the accompanying jalapeno and cheddar bread pudding than any thrill I expected a breast quarter to impart. Brined and pan-seared to perfection, the juicy and flavorful meat forced me to rethink every preconceived notion I had about chicken breast. All but separating into ribbons at the touch of my fork, it was stunningly presented propped alongside triangles of dense, cheesy bread pudding and accented with baby grilled veggies.

Shrimp and grits is a dish I can seldom resist, so ordering Stillwaters' Key West Pinks with cheddar grits, “mustard q” wine butter and scallions was a no-brainer. The coarse, stone-ground cheese grits were off the chain, but I found the Carolina barbecue-esque sauce to be bit overpowering (an opinion that was vehemently contested by different dining companions on separate occasions), so let your palate be your guide. Purists may request the sauce served on the side - everybody wins.

Dark Chocolate Crémeux layered with Peanut Butter Pretzel and topped with Chocolate "Caviar” is a study in textural decadence that would probably cheer up even the saddest person you know. This little jar of heaven is not a dessert you want to approach with dainty dips and nibbles. Rather, you want to plunge your spoon to the bottom of its depths so you can dredge out a sample of every strata of its luxurious chocolaty, nutty, crunchy and salty layers in each bite.

Chocolate cherry brioche bread pudding is also no slouch in the "happy endings" department, acting to effectively channel those cordial cherry candies we all loved as kids, only with a decidedly grownup, boozy bourbon vanilla ice cream topper.

With its eclectic menu and wide selection of beers (many regionally crafted) wine and cocktails, Stillwaters’ menu offers something for everyone – vegans, burger mongers, late night nibblers, sippers, lunchers and fine diners alike.

www.stillwaterstavern.com

Verducci's Pizzeria & Trattoria, St. Pete Beach, FL

2015-07-26T21:24:00.001-04:00

I finally got around to trying this 40-year-old delight (founded in New Jersey in 1976; migrated to St. Pete Beach in 2010) via an increased sense of urgency precipitated by establishing their new Italian Market offshoot as my latest crush. To be fair, classic, old-school Italian cuisine is not typically at the forefront of my little pea brain when I ponder my dining options. But that's probably because at other traditional Italian restos, everything (from bread, to pasta, to sauces) isn't created from scratch in-house as it is here. Remarkable.

The venue has a nice, comforting "Sunday supper" kinda vibe that appeals to all types of clientele...families, seniors, couples. In general, it’s a real crowd-pleaser. An exceptional basket of warm bread with olive oil for dipping was deposited right off the bat.

The fried calamari app was a particularly delightful little jewel box, yielding unexpected treasures of butterflied shrimp and razor-thin, deep-fried zucchini rounds as the excavation of its charming, individual fry-basket commenced.

Antipasto Italianio was a generous portion of cured meats, cheeses and roasted veggies with balsamic drizzle. A stunningly beautiful (and bountiful) plethora of delights:

Our cephalopod-loving dining companion nearly swooned over his Maruzella (shrimp, calamari and Spanish octopus simmering in a tomato-based sauce with toasted Italian bread slices for sopping).

Entrees were quite hearty. I think the best thing ordered was the pork osso buco. The glossy, caramelized exterior looked like it had been shellacked, and then the entire shank collapsed into juicy little porcine ribbons at the touch of a fork.

I usually can't shoehorn down truffled anything fast enough, but my veal osso bucco ravioli with porcini mushrooms and truffle sauce almost sent me into sensory overload. You've got to use a light hand with truffle because it can be so overpowering.

The ravioli ultimately proved to be a tad too rich and heady for me, so I swapped it for my hubs' little veal roulades stuffed with cheese and prosciutto. Served nestled atop a creamy bed of polenta, this dish was a savory delight. UD seemed to feel that that he got the better end of the deal and had no problem cheerfully snorting the remainder of the truffled pasta. Win-win!

Our other companion selected chicken parmigiana. I'm not the best critic of this dish since it's not something I would ever order (not being a fan of white meat chicken), but it was quite nice. The breast was moist, the breading light and crispy and the sauce bright and tangy (bonus points for lots of cheese!).

Good times, good prices and good service. We all finished with a divine chocolate cannoli.

www.verduccistpetebeach.com

Verducci's Italian Market, St. Pete Beach, FL

2015-07-20T20:50:00.002-04:00

At the insistence of my younger brother, UD and I visited Verducci's Italian Market (7800 Blind Pass Rd., St. Pete Beach) last weekend to meet him for lunch. The brainchild of the owners of the adjacent Verducci's Pizzaria Trattoria, the market has only been open for two weeks...but everything is already off-the-chain fabulous! First, the interior is gorgeous and relaxing (thanks in part, I was told, to the implementation of feng shui in its design); and commitment to quality was evident in every bite we consumed. I'm sure word will get out swiftly and this gem will soon be overrun with a manic crush of humanity in a giant fight for food (similar to Mazzaro's, which I can't bear to enter for that reason), so I intend to enjoy the tranquil "soft opening" vibe while I can.

We decided to dine in and grabbed some stools at the coffee bar. Bottles of wine and beer are available for purchase and may be opened and enjoyed on the premises. The spousal unit and I shared a $15.95 bottle of light Italian table wine and baby bro nursed a $3 Peroni. My astonishingly-priced $6.95 Antipasto Salad (which will be known going forward as "God's Own Salad") was basically a shallow bed of crisp lettuce that acted as a carrier for what must've been a pound of assorted cheeses, meats, marinated veggies, jumbo olives and roasted peppers. Drizzled in Italian dressing, GOS was one of best and most beautiful/bountiful salads I've ever eaten.

Hub's Stromboli was similarly generous, meat-laden and oozing melted cheese...a real bargain at $3.95.

My sibling, who has never had a problem successfully shoehorning down food portions of any size, almost had to unhinge his jaw to wrap it around his Meatball Hero. Tender meatballs almost the size of baseballs were nestled in freshly baked, crusty bread and slathered in tangy marinara and melted cheese ($7.95 including chips).

The spousal unit and I shared a fat, chocolate-dipped cannoli from the pastry case for dessert and rolled out of there for around $45 (for the three of us) before adding a gratuity for the sweet barista who walked us through the ordering process.

This beautiful store offers a plethora of prepared foods, cured meats, cheeses, pizzas/calzones/stromboli, gelato/spumoni, pastries, olives, house baked breads, freshly made pasta sauces, wines and cappuccino with a pleasant little cafe area for dining onsite. You will eat out of plastic containers with plastic utensils, but you won't care because it's all so amazing. A great destination for a casual lunch, it will also be virtually impossible NOT to pick up something tantalizing for dinner from the gleaming display cases while you're there. Verducci's Italian Market is destined to be my new home away from home.