Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking

Pork loin braised with milk

2026-10-11T13:36:46.070+10:00

I have been eyeing this recipe off for 17 years. I don't know why I was reluctant to cook it. I think, perhaps, in the beginning I was too intimidated by it. It was such a classic. I have been a slow student. Marcella told me once I needed to have a close look at my cooking, to see what was going wrong with it. Perhaps that put me on edge.

Anyway, I gave it a go, 16 years after I started this blog. It worked. It was delicious. I shall make it again.

I used Giuliano's version "taught to me by my mother". She first published her version in 1973. His is almost the same. She talks of bones and tablespoons of water, and he does not. Both talk of removing fat from the nut brown sauce - mine was fine with the fat included.

We are not religious, but often say a quiet thanks to Marcella when we eat some of her food.

Thanks.

Lemon veal scallopini

2026-08-16T17:30:50.068+10:00

Lovely! Will have to try with chicken.

Dodged the flour. Any GF suggestions (lower GI) I'm all ears.

Pot Roast with Red Wine

2026-08-16T17:26:34.467+10:00

This is a feast for a group of people you love.

I don't think mash is optional. I did cauiflower.

Green beans would go well with it.

Marcella published this recipe 53 years ago, when she was younger than me.

Still Tasty, Marcella. Thank you.

Roast Easter Lamb with White Wine

2026-02-25T14:45:00.001+10:00

I made this little beauty with a hunk of lamb shoulder.

It was delicious - tender lamb with a classic, effortless delicious sauce.

I would warm the serving bowl next time, as instructed.

Pork chops with sage and tomatoes

2026-02-23T15:04:00.005+10:00

I can't believe I've not posted about this dish before.

Pork, sage, tomatoes - that's pretty well it.

It's so delicious. We skip the flour, but it browns nicely without. The trick, as is usually the case, is the get the best of everything: free range pork, best tomatoes, sage from your garden, the best salt and fats. If you use a crappy bit of pork it will be like an old boot.

Cook until it's done. This doesn't mean stopping after the suggested hour, or god help us, 20 minutes as I read in someone's blog post. You cook the pork till it's tender when prodded with a fork. That might take 40 minutes. Or it might take 2 hours.

Fried Calamari

2026-02-01T13:43:00.004+10:00

We used almond flour and olive oil, and it worked a treat. I fried for longer than you might think - minutes, till it really went golden. We bought the preprepared squid tubes and it was much easier.

Pan Roased Chicken with Garlic, Rosemary and White Wine

2025-12-03T05:46:00.003+10:00

When Marcella first sat down in the early 1970s to write her first Italian cookbook, I understand the first recipe she documented was this one. Possibly 55 years later, we cooked it for dinner. It is lovely! It's so different from dishes that look similar - like the Roast Chicken with Rosemary and Garlic, or the Fricasseed Chicken with Cherry Tomatoes, Garlic, Rosemary and Olives. I think perhaps it's the butter which changes things.

Anyway, it was delicious.

We cooked it with green beans with butter and parmeson (also from Essentials), and roast potatoes with rosemary (Giuliano has this in his How to Cook Italian, as I recall).

Give it a go.

Pork Loin Braised with Savoy Cabbage

2025-12-02T06:18:00.001+10:00

Here is a recipe from Giuliano Hazan's Every Night Italian. A lovely man, and a fantastic book, which I understand from Giuliano is still in print.

As with Marcella's recipes, there are very few ingredients here. But they work magic, and provide a comforting winter dish.

I used normal cabbage, and it worked great.

Smothered cabbage

2025-11-26T17:53:00.002+10:00

Marcella has this "smothered cabbage" recipe, that has garlic, olive oil, onion and vinegar in it.

You have to (well, I had to) watch it catching.

It was just OK for me, which usually means I've not worked something out.

I will keep braising cabbage till I do as I like the idea of it.

Chicken Fricassee with red cabbage

2025-11-21T04:46:00.003+10:00

I have posted about this before - 16 years ago or thereabouts.

It's such a delicious dish. I think some of the smells attracted a four legged stranger into the house.

Marcella commented on my cooking when she heard I struggled getting the garlic bright gold before I burned the onion. In September 2010 (15 years ago) she said:

David's cooking, as always, can be mystifying

I miss her.

Caprese Salad

2025-11-20T00:32:00.003+10:00

Marcella's most beautiful book is Marcella Cucina. I find it her most personal as well. This salad is one mentioned, although as she points out, it is so simple it requires only a brief description of how to assemble rather than a recipe.

As usual, it depends heavily on the quality of the ingredients on offer. Thankfully I am in a place I can get beautiful buffalo mozzarella and ripe tomatoes (along with everything else).

What a delight.

Chicken Fricassée with porcini mushrooms, white wine and tomatoes

2025-07-20T18:50:00.003+10:00

Lovely. Was worried about liquid quantity - 2 cups, for rehydrating mushrooms. I wonder if she puts that much in in later recipes for porcini. But I reduced it at the end, as instructed. Delicious sauce. Earthy. Some grit. Will wash better next time.

I see Giuliano Hazan has a different version in his How to Cook Italian (this is from Essentials), so I will try that another time.

Marcella has another in Says I think, or Cucina.

Frittata with green beans

2025-07-20T08:10:00.002+10:00

Overcooked the eggs on the bottom. Not sure why. I think it's because Marcella cooks it all the way through, almost. Just a few seconds under the grill, she says. It's never a few seconds for me, no matter how much I cook them. I think next time I'll cook it less on the stove, and more under the grill, to reduce the risk of overcooking the bottom.

Guilano says to grill till brown. Marcella says do not brown. Evolution...

Shredded carrot salad

2025-07-19T16:06:00.005+10:00

This little beauty would go with most things. Be sure to follow the instructions and peel them.

Chicken and two lemons

2025-05-13T09:49:00.001+10:00

A Marcella Hazan classic. I think it took me some time to get my head around this dish. But I love it now. It's so simple (which as Marcella reminded us, does not mean easy). My favourite dishes are those with the fewest ingredients, and Marcella points out that if the ingredients were a still life painting it would be just that: a chicken and two lemons.

Even better if you can grow your own lemons. And maybe even your chicken...

Lamb Stew with vinegar and green beans

2025-05-11T15:09:00.003+10:00

I have been cooking this dish since 2010 - 15 years! You can read my first thoughts on this blog. It is one of my favourites. Get good lamb, good vinegar, good beans, good salt and good olive oil, and a good pot, and you're set. Good pepper too! As usual, follow the instructions. Get lamb on the bone - "everyone knows it's tastier", Marcella said to me. "Speak to your butcher", she also said to me. And follow her directions. When it says to cook till tender, she means till tender. It might take half the time suggested, or double. Poke it with a fork.

As Marcella also said, "Cooking times bore me".

This dish was first published in 1973. 51 years ago. Who knows how long Marcella has been aware of this dish, and how long it has been cooked for.

She also said to me that young people like me were keeping these old dishes alive.

Young people like you now!

Spareribs Pan-Roasted with Sage and White wine, Treviso style

2025-04-14T17:29:00.005+10:00

These little beauties are well worth a go. I read somewhere else that Marcella learnt this from her assistant - probably 50 years ago. Well, they are still tasty.

It's important with recipes to read the instructions carefully. Marcella once said cooking times bored her, because it might take 3 times as long on your stove than hers. It depends on the heat, and what's being cooked, no doubt among other things.

I ended up cooking these for over an hour - maybe 70 minutes, until her description was matched and the meat came away easily from the bone.

Worth the wait.

Sautéed Fillets of Breast of Chicken with Lemon and Parsley, Siena Style

2025-04-14T17:24:00.000+10:00

I've eyed this dish off for a while. I think early on I attempted it, but the cooking time seemed really off - less than a minute for a chicken breast.

I paid more attention this time - it's filleted chicken breast, to mimic veal scallopini. So a flash in the pan more or less.

Unfortunately, I only worked that out after I filleted my breasts - and they were monstrous breasts too. Birds these days.... So the fillets were at least twice as thick as they should have been - possibly more.

I had to cook them for longer until they reached a cooked temperature (around 75C). I added some water and put the lid on to do this, then simmered the water away and continued with the recipe.

It cooled quickly - I really need the warmed serving platter for next time.

But the sauce was lovely, buttery and lemony, even if the chicken was a bit dry and chewy because of the size of it and cooking time. The presentation was beautiful.

I'll have another crack at this.

2025-04-13T19:06:00.003+10:00

Now, where was I?

Tonight we cooked Lamb Cutlets with rosemary, garlic and white wine, from Marcella's Italian Kitchen.

At least, that's what we call them. I've been asking AI about what Americans call lamb chops.

Either way. The classic parings work with whatever lamb you have.

My cutlets were a little chewy, so I'm going to try again with another butcher.

Flavour was lovely.

(je me souviens)

Succotash

2011-08-31T05:05:00.001+10:00

Marcella kindly posted this on my wall:

If you love risotto, you might like succotash, assuming you have wonderful corn and fresh young beans or peas in Brisbane. First cook the peas/beans, then puncture the corn kernels to release their milk, then scrape off the kernels too and add them to the cooked, drained peas/beans together with whipping cream, butter, salt, pepper. Cook for about 8 minutes, stirring constantly. It's delicious. Please don't add cilantro.

Scallops

2011-08-24T18:54:00.000+10:00

Celery and tomato pasta sauce

2011-08-20T19:43:00.003+10:00

I haven't checked in for a while. I have been cooking less Italian and trying to trim down.

But I haven't stopped.

Here is a celery and tomato pasta sauce from Marcella Cucina - the book, I think, that is her most physically beautiful and engagingly written.

It was a surprising and delicious sauce. Smooth but not buttery from the 3 tablespoons of butter and the tablespoon of oil. Herby and grassy (in a good way) from the celery - I use those words but really it was an intriguing flavour I find difficult to describe.

Some say it smelt like the garden......

In any event it was a fine and tasty pasta. I would like to make it again.

Another winner from Marcella Hazan.

Pomodori E Vino

2011-06-02T05:16:00.005+10:00

Here is a comment I posted over at the blog of the Pomodori E Vino (http://www.slowtrav.com/blog/pomodori_e_vino/and_in_the_beginning/), who have almost cooked their way through Essentials.

I am posting this as the project is coming to a close. Your work has been of incredible interest to me, as I have been trying to teach myself how to cook Italian by cooking my way through Marcella's works for a couple of years myself. However, my modest efforts could not begin to approach the sheer volume of work you have all produced since you began: one a day! It is remarkable.

I have enjoyed getting to know each of you during the process. While Marcella says in her first book that anyone who is slightly alert will have no problem cooking every dish, she also admits that simple does not always mean easy. It isn't easy making the perfect pasta with only spaghetti, garlic and oil, for example. When ingredients are not masked, and have to speak for themselves, in simple combinations and manipulated by simple procedures, then you really do have to do everything right.

And you know what, I think that more often than not you did.

I've been inspired by some of your dishes. You might see that in things I have cooked after you did. Some of the photography is beautiful, and the writing lyrical. You should be proud, each of you, of your efforts.

But of course the real hero in this project has been Marcella herself (and you too Victor, I know you're never far away). It is not too strong a statement to say Marcella's generous interaction with her fans over facebook, in her advanced years, have been one of the highlights of mine in recent times. We all knew she was an extraordinary gifted cook and communicator, with a clear vision of how things should be, but the way in which she has offered her increasingly valuable time to so many people she has not even met is just a sign of what a giving and passionate woman she is.

I have always said it was the intelligence in Marcella's writings that first drew me to her, and it was my success with her recipes and her virtual presence and encouragement on forums such as this project that has kept me cooking through her books.

It really has been like a director's cut, this project, with priceless commentary coming 20 years after the film was made. Although in this case it has been 30 years.

Lucky for us good cooking is timeless.

But enough from me. Thank you to each of you, and the biggest thank you and grandmotherly hug and firm handshake to Marcella and Victor. You are all food heros in my book, and the bringers of much happiness to many families, over many decades.

A Farm Wife's Fresh Pear Tart

2011-05-21T21:55:00.006+10:00

This was a cracker. I didn't expect much of it, but it was delicious, and so simple. I used the cloves - best if you can pick them out before eating them. But came up a treat, and was devoured by everyone.

I'll be making this again.

Onions

2011-03-06T13:40:00.003+10:00

David DownieMarcella Hazan
I've been thinking about what it means to brown an onion. Using Marcella's writings I describe onions becoming golden and then light brown (and presumably after this dark brown and then burnt). I think there is an expectation that it takes about 5 minutes for a onion to become golden and starting to brown from a cold start using a medium high heat (for example, in a risotto). But I'm reading someone else (not in the Italian space) and they say cook the onion until "light brown". Immediately I think of that post golden phase, but I wonder if they really mean lightly golden. Is anyone aware of whether the language used to describe a phase of cooking an onion is consistent among cooks?

21 hours ago · · · See Friendship

Michael Ryan likes this.
- David Downie You know, I may have thought about this too much. It would appear that red onions cooked in olive oil do not behave in the same way as brown onions cooked in butter. I just waited until it looked light brown, as directed. I didn't see a golden phase at all. Pic on my wall for those interested.
  19 hours ago · · 1 person
- Michael Ryan Very informative and entertaining David :). Good Afternoon Marcella, Hope your weekend is off to a great start!
  7 hours ago ·
- Marcella Hazan
  Let us assume we are talking about sautéing, and not sweating, which is a different technique, and let us also assume that the internal color of the onion when raw is white. When it cooks in an uncovered pan in whatever fat you are using, the first phase will see it turn from flat white to translucent. Some people think it is already done. For Italian cooking, it is not. As you continue cooking and stirring, it acquires a deeper hue than it had originally, and that hue may be described as golden. For most dishes I prefer to continue cooking it until its color resembles that of a pale nut shell or dark blond wood. Depending on what you are making, it may now be ready. If you want a fuller release of the onion's flavor so that it may more intensely be transferred to the other ingredients that are to follow, continue cooking until is a medium to dark brown, but obviously not charred. The process may take from 5 to 8 minutes, depending on how fine the onion has been cut, on how much room it has in the pan, on how efficient is the heat conduction ability of the pan, and how the flame is regulated. I prefer a steady, but not excessively brisk simmer, but other cooks may like to use faster heat.
  
  I can see the golden phase, and you cannot. What of it? Just be a cook, David, and develop a sense of when the onion is ready. A little less analysis, a little more instinct.
  11 minutes ago ·
- David Downie Thank you Marcella. Sometimes I think I am not very good with colour. I also have trouble spotting things right in front of me in the kitchen, such as the cheese grater. As for the onion, I can see the golden phase when I cook a brown onion in butter, but have trouble with a red onion. Perhaps it is all in my mind. I am much more instinctive a cook than I was when I began, but I do like to think about things as well. It could be my training.
  
  My Madhur Jaffrey stew turned out very nicely in the end, golden onion or not. It is amazing how many dishes may be cooked with lamb shoulder, at least to me. I have a few I cook regularly now, and they are all different and delicious. I think it is my favourite cut of meat, so far.
  2 seconds ago