Eurail Blog - Travel Europe by Rail

Halloween in Copenhagen

Benjamin Thomas — Sun, 11 Oct 2009 00:58:51 +0000

It’s difficult scaring up Halloween fun in Europe.
I remember as a child being told that Halloween originated in Europe, as so many customs I believed did. But you can walk around many countries here with hardly a slutty witch costume to be seen, or razor blade in an apple to be had. Kidding. But still – as a child rewarded for surviving howls and screams with a plastic pumpkin full of sugar treasures, the lack of celebration is disappointing.

“It’s beginning to become more popular here,” numerous European friends try to console me. Tivoli Park is one those places where the tradition is gaining foot. Since 2006, the amusement park in the center of Copenhagen opens in the middle of October to celebrate Halloween. Previously, the park closed after its summer season and before its Christmas markets. Halloween, they’ve discovered, is another opportunity at amusement.

Thousands of pumpkins fill the park, ghoulish lights speckle the night sky, and pumpkin heads parade through. It’s all geared a bit much towards children. No hair-raising haunted houses or blood-curdling creatures. “But it’s beginning to become more popular here,” yet another friend consoles me. On this day, in this land, I can only resort to the thrills of the park rides.

Happy Halloween!

Budapest – Vienna – Linz – Hamburg – Copenhagen

Benjamin Thomas — Wed, 07 Oct 2009 00:52:56 +0000

This trip pleasantly sounded longer than it was. I traveled through Austria as the sun was setting, ever more early now, a reminder of winter’s approach.

I fall soundly asleep on the Night Train from Linz to Hamburg. And the morning train from Hamburg to Copenhagen has wireless internet on-board, so I am able to spend the morning feeling connected before arriving in Copenhagen mid-day.

On board in Denmark, I meet a man who moved from England to work with LEGO. He remarks how he likes it here – the pace, the space, the countryside. A train attendant walks through offering us free apples in a basket, looking as though he just picked them himself from a tree, along with cookies. “But Denmark’s socialist background sometimes feels a bit too orderly, a bit too invested in ‘the system.’ I don’t know if ‘the system’ always works so well,” he continues. Just then, the same train attendant walks through again, now trying to sell us snacks after first offering them for free. The socialist background at work, we laugh. For better or worse?

Cesky Krumlov – Ceske Budejovice – Linz – Vienna – Budapest

Benjamin Thomas — Mon, 05 Oct 2009 00:46:31 +0000

Train Tip: Cesky Krumlov IS the closest train station to the inner town of Cesky Krumlov. But still, it’s a hike away. I like to walk, so getting there was no problem. From outside the train station, walk right along the sidewalk. It’s about a half-hour walk, and eventually you’ll come to an overlook seeing the town through trees. It’s downhill from that point, castle in front of you.

But getting back to the train station is all uphill. Ask a local shop person to help you call a taxi.

In Ceszky Krumlov, Czech

Benjamin Thomas — Sat, 03 Oct 2009 23:50:23 +0000

Cesky Krumlov is a walk back in time. Back towards the 13th century, to be exact.

It was then that the Castle was built overlooking a small river that winds through one of Bohemia’s most beautiful towns. You’ll be struck with how well-preserved the town is, despite decades of neglect under Communist rule. UNESCO declared Cesky Krumlov a World Heritage Site in 1992.

The car-less inner town makes for a relaxing get-away. Cafes, pubs and galleries line the cobble-stoned roads. The Eggenberg Brewery, one of fifty-two breweries in Czech, dates back to the 16th century. On the brewery tour, you can watch them brew seven current beers.

Walk up the slight hill and take the castle tour to see how affluent this town along an important trading route was for centuries. One of my favorite rooms in the castle is the ballroom, painted with life-sized scenes from a costume ball.

When the Vltava river is high enough, you can go rafting on it. Or, less actively, enjoy the river by eating and drinking alongside it at numerous restaurants. But the main attraction is the town itself, whose enchantments may be best realized in the evenings, as the tour buses roll away and the locals reclaim their town, holding court at local pubs, as they’ve been doing for centuries.

Budapest – Linz – Ceske Budejovice – Cesky Krumlov, Czech

Benjamin Thomas — Thu, 01 Oct 2009 23:28:19 +0000

Train Tip: Any train trip to Cesky Krumlov will likely connect through Ceske Budejovice. If your itinerary allows it, allow yourself an hour or two here. It’s a bit of a beer capital: the city has been brewing beer since the 13th century. But it’s especially known as the home of the Pivovar Budejovicky Budvar, or the Budweiser Budvar Brewery.

Founded in 1895, the brewery’s beer is some cousin of the American Budweiser. Stop off in any pub near the train station to try one and taste for yourself how alike or unlike the two are. (I won’t hint.)

From Ceske Budejovice, it’s a short 50 minute train ride to Cesky Krumlov. It’s also back on the small, local trains that bring the children to school from neighboring towns. I had a yellow school bus. They have a red school train.

In Munich

Benjamin Thomas — Sun, 27 Sep 2009 16:38:27 +0000

Octoberfest is back in full swing in Munich.
Octoberfest technically started September 19th this year, and finishes October 4th, but who’s counting? Certainly not the beer drinkers who spend days and nights hoisting their “masses” of beer (Liter mugs).

I notice large contingents of international folks, especially Australians and Americans, inside the Hofbrau Festzelt tent. Not that Germans have any problem speaking English, especially when drunk, but English-speakers will feel at home beneath the house bands inside of this tent.

Train Tip: Many local Germans make day trips via the train to celebrate Octoberfest. Munich’s Hauptbahnhoff train station has a very large number of luggage lockers for rent (3 or 5 Euros for 24 hours). But during Octoberfest, even this large number of lockers can become full quickly each morning. Look also inside the luggage locker room for an attendant window where you may be able to leave your bag if traveling in only for the day and arrive to full lockers.

Budapest – Munich

Benjamin Thomas — Fri, 25 Sep 2009 16:26:17 +0000

Austria’s RailJet is growing in popularity.
Each time I take it, I notice more passengers. It’s the perfect train to take if traveling this seven-hour route between Budapest and Munich, as the train goes direct and no connection is required.

Train Tip: Because of RailJet’s growing popularity, you may want to make a seat reservation if you are traveling far, and want to ensure a seat. But otherwise, seat reservations are not required on the RailJet.

National Day – Budapest

Benjamin Thomas — Thu, 20 Aug 2009 14:08:53 +0000

What city in the world lets stunt planes fly over and under its bridges in the downtown core?
Budapest does, every August 20th, as the Red Bull Air Race comes to town. August 20th is Hungary’s national day, in celebration of St. Stephen, who united modern Hungary in 997 AD. And the Red Bull Air Race has become part of the annual celebrations the afternoon of every August 20th.

Stay around at night to watch an incredible fireworks show over the Danube. Far, far better than my pictures turned out. Can you at least recognize the Buda Castle in this blur?

Sziget Festival – Budapest

Benjamin Thomas — Sat, 15 Aug 2009 14:17:41 +0000

I have never seen so many foreigners in Budapest. For six days (or seven, or eight, depending on the hangover), a mix of Hungarians and foreigners converge on one of Budapest’s islands in the Danube: Obudai-sziget.

Campers fill the island all week here, the sight of Europe’s largest music and cultural festival (Sziget means “island” in Hungarian, hence the name of the festival).

I can say that this is one of the best experiences I have had in Hungary. The 266 acre island pulsates with dozens of music stages and tents. I heard people compare the festival to Burning Man or the original Woodstock. (How some of them know, I am not sure, as much of the crowd is college-aged.)

The organization is incredibly well-run for an event of its size. I joked with the Sziget organizers that they should be running the country, since they fill a void of vision and leadership offered by Hungary’s Parliament. This year’s festival drew the largest crowd ever, an estimated 400,000 people participated, and no doubt many are already making their plans for next year. The festival’s website is in English here: http://www.sziget.hu/fesztival/?language=en

Train Tip: If arriving by train from abroad, a popular method, you will need to next get on the red metro to Batthyany ter. Here, you need to transfer onto a commuter train, a green train called HEV, five stops along the Danube river to Flitatorigat station. Note that the Eurail Pass does not cover you on the HEV train. Each one way ticket on the HEV train costs 300 Hungarian forints (about 1 Euro/ $1.50)

Stockholm – Copenhagen – Hamburg – Frankfurt – Vienna – Budapest

Benjamin Thomas — Tue, 11 Aug 2009 13:15:19 +0000

My train is leaving early in the morning, through Sweden, southward. Outside the train window, early morning fog is lifting from the countryside.

Train Tip: The train between Copenhagen and Hamburg crosses the sea by ferry at one point. You’ll spend the 45 minute trip on the ferry’s deck, outside of the train. But be sure to get back on the train as the ferry is approaching the port. The train is one of the first vehicles to leave from the ferry, and finding your way back down to the train from the upper decks may take several minutes. I saw several passengers running to jump on the train as it was preparing to drive off the ferry.