Wander around the Berlinale for free. Photo by Maharepa.

By Susan Buzzelli in Berlin—

Keep pouring the champagne (or, even better, the Sekt), because we’re in a celebratory mood. The festivities surrounding the 20th anniversary of the Berlin Wall’s fall were such a blast, that we’re already looking forward to the city’s next mega-event.

Though Germany’s capital no longer hosts the bacchanalian, techno-obsessed Love Parade, Berlin still reigns as Europe’s party central with its diverse and jam-packed events calendar. The best of the fests, listed below, are ideal for Cheapos because they’re free, inexpensive, or value-packed. So sharpen your elbows and get ready to join the crowds!

Internationale Grüne Woche (International Green Week)
January 15-24, 2010
Official website

We’re crazy about this food-centric fair, which is devoted to nutrition, agriculture and horticulture. The Green Week event fills the city’s massive, space-age exhibition hall with the moo of cows, the pungent scent of Swiss cheese, and the bouquet of German wine.

Regular admission is €12, but once you’re inside, you can stroll past food stands galore shelling out snacks from Germany and around the world. Free samples abound. Cheapos should show up after 2 PM, when tickets go for €7.

Internationale Filmfestspiele Berlin (Berlin International Film Festival)
February 11-21
Official website

Tickets to Berlin’s film festival, referred to as the “Berlinale”, aren’t cheap (they go for €8), but you don’t have to shell out anything to take part in this major cinematic event. Our favorite activity is milling around Potsdamer Platz, the epicenter of the festival, which draws thousands of film professionals and film lovers from around the world.

A must? Celeb-spotting (is that George Clooney?) at the red carpet leading into the Berlinale Palast (Am Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1), the theater where the most anticipated films—from Hollywood and around the world—premiere. At the very least, be sure to grab a free program to read about the latest in international filmmaking.

Carnival of Cultures. Photo: CpILL

Karneval der Kulturen (Carnival of Cultures)
May 21-24, 2010
Official website

As Germany’s most multicultural metropolis, Berlin celebrates its 450,000 international residents during the colorful, four-day “Carnival of Cultures” festival in Kreuzberg. A party atmosphere pervades the event’s highlight: an endless street parade of ethnic-themed floats.

But the multicultural festival, which includes a riot of bands, food stalls, and theme parties, is lots of fun, too. Celebrated since 1996, the festival is bigger and better every year.

Fête de la Musique
June 21, 2010
Official website

The “Fete de la Musique,” a one-day, music-making event, celebrates the summer solstice with a bang, a drum roll, and a techno beat. Live, open-air concerts—all of which are free–fill the city with music, from reggae to electronica. Expect to discover some new talent, because most of the musical acts are upstart bands and DJs doing their thing for the first time. In 2009, 700 bands and DJs performed on 83 stages; 150,000 showed up to watch. Now that’s what we call a party.

Silvester (New Year’s Eve)
December 31

When the clock strikes twelve, laser shows and fireworks displays shower the Brandenburg Gate with light. A major event since 1995, Berlin’s New Year’s Eve festivities have become the spectacle to see in Europe. Before the explosion of lights, dozens of bands entertain the throng of spectators gathered on the Strasse 17. Juni, a wide avenue that’s bookended by two of the city’s most iconic landmarks: the Brandenburg Gate and the angel-capped Siegesäule (Victory Column).

Switzerland by train. Photo by Cookiepediachef.

By Nicky Gardner and Susanne Kries in Berlin—

It is that time of year again when we start to look ahead to next year’s European rail schedules. As always, the December timetable change ushers in a host of new services and changes to existing routes. The new schedules kick in this year on Sunday December 13, 2009 and for most services in Europe bookings for the new timetable have opened in the last week or two.

In this briefing for EuroCheapo we take a look at what the 2010 schedules will mean for travelers bound for or traveling through Switzerland and Austria.

Crossing the Alps into Italy: The Cisalpino saga

Look for big changes this year in train services crossing the Alps into Italy. The troubled Cisalpino brand disappears as the Swiss and Italian railways (SBB and Trenitalia respectively) take over the express links from Switzerland via both the Simplon and Gotthard routes to Milan and beyond.

Few will mourn the passing of the unreliable Cisalpino trains, which were so detested by regular users that a pressure group called Cessoalpino was founded to highlight the shortcomings of the service. So Cisalpino really is about to disappear, a tribute to the power of consumer protest.

From mid-December this year, the principal services from Switzerland to Italy will run under the “EuroCity” brand. A simplified timetable will focus on the core services from Zürich and Geneva to Milan. The downside is that the useful daytime direct services from Zürich to Florence and from Basel to Venice and Trieste are dropped in the revised schedules. Henceforth a change of train in Milan will be necessary for these journeys.

When is a train not a train?

Further east, services from Vienna to Italy are completely reorganised, and not (in our view) for the better. When we book a train ticket, we expect to travel by train and not by bus. But that’s not the way the Austrian Railways (ÖBB) see it, and from December 13 travelers heading to Venice from eastern Austria must change onto buses at either Klagenfurt or Villach for the onward journey south into Italy. ÖBB claim that the buses are so sophisticated that “you will feel that you are riding on a train.” We remain to be convinced.

Tyrolean upgrade: Railjet to Zürich

The smart new ÖBB Railjet trains will be introduced on services running east from Zürich through the Austrian Tyrol to Innsbruck, Salzburg and Vienna. Most passengers will welcome this innovation, but we shall regret the loss of the rather stylish Swiss panorama coach which was always included in the morning train from Zürich. It was our favourite spot for Tyrolean sightseeing.

From Salzburg via the Tyrol to the Rhine Gorge

There is an interesting Tyrolean innovation for 2010. Starting from December 13, there will be a daily morning service from Salzburg that is replete with sightseeing-by-train possibilities.

The train criss-crosses the German/Austrian border to reach Innsbruck, follows the Arlberg route through the Tyrol, skirts Lake Constance, then takes a rural route northwest through Ulm and Heidelberg to reach the Rhine valley. It follows the traditional left bank route up the Rhine via Koblenz to Cologne. Great views of the Lorelei along the way.

No other European train so assiduously links the principal points in Austria and Germany favoured by North American visitors to Europe. The journey times from Salzburg to Heidelberg, Koblenz (for the Rhine gorge) and Cologne are nine, eleven and twelve hours respectively.

End of the line for the Orient Express

In other developments affecting the Alps region, the overnight sleeper train linking Amsterdam with Lugano (in the Swiss Ticino region) and Milan is withdrawn, as is the daily overnight train service from Zürich to Rome. The City Night Line Amsterdam to Vienna night sleeper is also dropped for 2010, but replaced in part by a new Cologne to Vienna overnight service which will be run by ÖBB.

Last but not least, the Orient Express service from Strasbourg to Vienna slips into history with the December timetable change. This service is the last surviving remnant of the grand train that once linked Paris with Istanbul. Over the years, the train’s route has been ever more curtailed. And the 126-year history of the Orient Express finally comes to an end next month. True romantics still have a last chance to ride the real Orient Express. Daily departures are from Strasbourg at 8.37 pm. Tickets are from €29 for the overnight journey to Vienna.

The bible for European rail travelers

We never leave home without our copy of the Thomas Cook European Rail Timetable. The December 2009 edition, published later this month, will include the 2010 schedules for most European rail routes.

About the authors: Susanne Kries and Nicky Gardner are regular contributors to EuroCheapo and together edit hidden europe magazine. Their writing and photography regularly feature in various European media. You can see the table of contents of the latest issue of hidden europe online.

Madrid's sumptuous El Retiro Park. Photo by Stephanie Corral.

By Stephanie Corral in Madrid—

(Editor’s note: Stephanie recently moved to Madrid from Los Angeles. EuroCheapo checked in with her before the big move and is now following up to hear about her experience.)

I was worried I wouldn’t like Madrid. Or even sillier still, I was worried that Madrid wouldn’t like me. But as it turns out, we are a perfect match.

It’s hard to believe I’ve only been living here for a month because I feel right at home. Although my arrival was marred by rain and exhaustion, after a couple of days (and many siestas), I was riding the metro alone, saying “vale” and meeting friends for tapas in Sol.

Perhaps the transition into Spanish life was easy because before the big move, I had done enough research to know what to expect (chain smokers, weird closing hours, slow service at restaurants). But there are things that can only be discovered by living here.

Madrid never ceases to surprise me, but here are five things about this city that are pretty amazing:

1. The tap water.

The tap water is good enough to drink here. While the tap water back in Los Angeles is also safe to drink, it has that “tap water” taste, which is why I never drank the stuff. I was skeptical about drinking from the tap at first so it took a couple of days of cautious sipping before I became a full-fledged tap water drinker.

And you know what? It tastes fantastic. Madrilenos are very proud of their tap water, which comes from the city’s neighboring mountains. Now I fill up my water bottle with what is probably the best tap water in Spain, if not in Europe.

2. Cheap food.

I love that I can go out with my friends for tapas and a drink at places like 100 Montaditos or El Mercado de San Miguel with less than €10 in my pocket. Tax is included in the bill and tipping isn’t a must like it is back home.

TIP: If you’re in the mood for brunch, go to VIPS (pronounced “VEEPS”), a popular chain in Madrid. For €3.75, you can have pancakes, eggs, bacon and café con leche).

3. The Metro.

I’m just going to say it: I am in love with Metro Madrid. The first time I rode the metro, my roommate laughed at my bright-eyed fascination. I explained to her that the metro system in LA is a joke. The metro in Madrid is super efficient, organized, and affordable. If you miss the train, you can catch the next one in four minutes, so there’s no reason to kick yourself over hitting the snooze button.

4. A walking city.

I’m amazed at how well I can get around this city on foot when I don’t feel like taking the metro. I spent my first week walking everywhere, constantly feeling like I had walked into a postcard at every corner. I had to buy new walking shoes within a week of moving here. But now that it’s getting much colder, I join everyone else underground.

5. Public Libraries.

When I first arrived in Madrid, my apartment didn’t have internet access. I lugged my laptop to various WiFi cafés, but that wasn’t always practical. A trip to my nearest biblioteca publica (public library) revealed that with a library card, I could sign up for free internet access for an hour on the library’s computers. I checked my email, read the news and caught up on my blog reading in a clean and quiet place.

To get a library card, all you need is a passport or NIE (Numero de Identificacion de Extranjero). To find the nearest library, visit the library directory on the Comunidad de Madrid website.

One more surprise: El Retiro Park on a weekday

I should also add that if you’re ever in Madrid and are craving some peace and quiet, go to El Retiro park during a weekday afternoon. Sit on the steps of the Crystal Palace and feed the ducks and black swans. A fair warning: It will be enough to make you consider moving here.

About the author: Stephanie Corral is a freelance writer from Los Angeles living in Madrid, where she works as an English teacher.

Tour the newly remodeled Printemps. Photos by Theadora Brack.

By Theadora Brack in Paris—

Les Musées de Paris aren’t the only ones in the city getting a “little work” done these days. Following suit, why, even the Printemps Haussmann, the grand department store, has begun to enter the final phases of an extreme makeover!

Check out the atrium.

Now sporting a chic modern look that nevertheless manages to pay homage to her expansive Belle Époque days, Printemps’ new three-level atrium is finally open to the public. Window lickers (as the French call window shoppers—”lèche-vitrine”) of the world, unite.

Heads up, Cheapos! A special unveiling of the store’s newly-restored façade, along with its notorious holiday window displays, happens on November 12, 2009. And there are still more wonders are yet to come!

Équipe (”team”) effort

On the case is the Canadian architectural firm Yabu Pushelberg. (Toronto duo George Yabu and Glenn Pushelberg were also responsible for New York City’s Tiffany & Co. Wall Street, Neiman Marcus, and Bergdorf Goodman’s impressive good looks.) No holds were barred, as roughly €70 million have been poured into Printemps’ extensive interior and exterior revamping. The rest of the project’s completion is slated for spring 2010.

A rather large bag.

Like a dream

Meanwhile you’ll be dazzled by the recently installed super-cool (and eco-friendly) LED lighting system that illuminates and opens up the heart of the store: the center atrium. Resembling an oversized Lucite box, this pleasing eye candy is decked out in slick marble, sleek bands of iced chrome, and live trees that sprout multi-colored handbags. Ma joie!

Jutting out between the bustling, zigzagging escalators are towering cubbyholes (three stories high) stuffed with shiny fab accessories, just enough out of reach to tantalize. But one can always dream, can’t one?

Don’t skip the loo, my darlings

Check out “the first luxury public toilets” by Point WC (as touted on their website). One euro buys you private seating in a water closet lit by rose-colored lights, and handsomely stocked with shocking fluorescent toilet tissues in pinks, greens, and blues.

Skip to the loo!

You can’t miss the €1800 price tag for the commode, but happily you don’t have to buy it to experience it! Cosmetics for touch-ups, souvenir rolls of toilet tissue, and even beverages are available at the Point WC welcome desk.

Yes, I know, life is good–and with flattering lighting to boot. So make a beeline! Stopping by the loo has never been more fun or stylish! (BTW, you’ll also find a Point WC at the Carrousel du Louvre.)

About the author: Theadora Brack is a writer working in Paris. Her fiction has appeared in more than 30 literary publications, including 3AM International, The Smoking Poet, Beloit Fiction Journal, Mid-American Review, and the Haight-Ashbury Literary Journal.

Caravaggio's "Madonna di Loreto" on display. Photo by Gaspa.

By Samantha Collins in Rome—

There is something about Caravaggio that fascinates people. Even those who would normally prefer to cross a street of hot coals than spend time looking at paintings seem happy to make an exception for this rebel of Counter-Renaissance Art.

To celebrate Rome’s Caravaggio exhibition that has just opened at the Villa Borghese (and runs through January 24, 2010), it seemed timely to look at this bad boy of the paintbrush and take a tour around Rome to see some of his masterpieces for free!

So just who was Caravaggio?

Whilst most artists of the Middle Ages were more soft ruffles than tough scuffles, Caravaggio was not afraid of a fight, a drink, and the odd murder to boot. Commission happy, the taste of luxury did not bring out his lighter side. As well as pushing the Catholic church to the edge with his dark religious paintings, he eventually lost his temper once too often. After killing a young man who beat him in a tennis match in the Campo Dei Fiori, he fled Rome with a price on his head. He finally died in exile, never learning that he had been given a Papal Pardon.

Where can I see Caravaggio for free?

Sant’ Agostino Church
Via Sant’ Agostino

The Madonna di Loreto (painted in 1605, pictured above) is hung in the first chapel on the left. The church is close to Piazza Navona, and also includes a Raphael fresco. The church is currently under restoration, but don’t be fooled. Under the scaffolding, it is still open so you can see the paintings. For those who are pregnant (or wish to be), touch the statue of the “Madonna del Parto” near the door as you leave for luck.

San Luigi dei Francesi
Via Giustiniani

San Luigi dei Francesi. Photo: Gaspa

In the church of San Luigi dei Francesi you get three Caravaggio paintings for free with the Matthew trilogy, including  “The Calling of Saint Matthew”, “St. Matthew and the Angels”, and “The Matrydom of Saint Matthew”. This church is close to the centre, a short walk from the Pantheon and Piazza Navona, and next to the French institute with its wonderful bookshop.

Santa Maria Del Popolo
Piazza Del Popolo

This church is about a 20-minute walk from the historic centre, or you can take the Metro Linea A to Flaminio. Here you can find two paintings, the “Conversion of St. Paul” and “The Crucifixion of St. Peter”, so well worth the journey.

Please note that many churches are closed between 1 PM - 4 PM, but usually stay open in the evening until around 7 PM.

And if I want to pay?

Well if you are at the Santa Maria del Popolo, it is just a short walk up the hill to the Galleria Borghese, and its wonderful park. Here you can see three Caravaggio works, “Sick Bacchus”, “Boy with Bag of Fruit” and “Madonna dei Palafrenieri”. Entrance will cost you €8.50 but you also get to see the amazing Bernini sculpture of “Daphne and Apollo” amongst many other treasures.

At the moment, you can also access the Caravaggio and Bacon exhibition, on through January 24. Note that for the Galleria Borghese, you need to book in advance as only a limited number are allowed in at any one time (more details here).

Lastly, you can see the “Gypsy Fortune Teller” at the Capitoline Museums, entrance fee €6.50. Don’t forget that both of these museums are included in the Roma Pass, which is a 3-day pass that gives you free access to two museums, free travel on Rome’s public transport, and discounts to other museums and attractions. The pass costs €23. (read more about the Roma Pass).

When night falls, head for the Kulturehuset. Photo: Pineapplebun

By Marcus Cederstrom in Stockholm—

On October 25th, the clocks changed and Sweden fell back one hour. For many people around the world, this just means that it gets darker a little earlier, in Stockholm it means that on Monday the 26th Stockholmers were greeted with a sunset around 4:00 pm. The days are short in Sweden now and only getting shorter as winter approaches.

Luckily, there are plenty of things to do to keep busy, and some that will really appeal to Cheapos.

Daylight on the island of Djurgården

The city of Stockholm is built on a string of islands, which makes for beautiful sightseeing. Start your day by taking advantage of the daylight and wandering around the island of Djurgården. Walk along Strandvägen on your way to the island or take bus 47 from Central Station and get off at Djurgårdsbron.

The island itself is an amazing blend of nature and history. Several museums dot the island from the famous Vasa Museum, one of the most popular museums in Stockholm, to Waldemarsudde, a beautiful art museum, to Skansen, a living outdoor museum. For Cheapos, however, Djurgården can be enjoyed without spending a dime (or krona, in this case).

Walking around Djurgården, it’s easy to forget you are in the biggest city in Sweden. That might be because as you head east on the island you’ll be staring out towards the edge of the Stockholm archipelago. Or it could be the large National Park that runs through Stockholm and Djurgården.

The area of the National Park on the island is known as “Isbladskärret” and is a beautiful place to see the birds of Sweden, most notably the herons, which can be seen flying home to their nests as the sun sets in the spring.

Off to Kulturhuset

As the sun starts to set, (remember, the days are short during the fall and winter here in Stockholm) start heading back to the city and to Kulturhuset, (The Culture House).

Kulturhuset is located right in front of Sergels torg, the large chessboard-like square. Several bus stops in the area as well as one exit from Central Station make it hard to miss Sergels torg. Coming from Djurgården, you can either walk back along Strandvägen, or take bus 47 and get off at the Sergels torg stop.

Kulturhuset is known for its free exhibitions. Keep in mind that most of the exhibitions are closed on Mondays, and on all other days they don’t open until 11 AM. Closing times vary depending on the day of the week, so be sure to check Kulturhuset’s website if you’re unsure.

Once inside, Kulturhuset has a lot to offer. Each of the five floors has something, most of which are free. You’ll always have access to the Library for Comics and Graphic Literature on the 2nd floor, and the Kidzone on the 4th floor. Revolving photo exhibitions, film festivals, musical performances, and even literature workshops can be found on the other floors throughout the year.

After having explored the natural beauty of Stockholm, as well as the cultural offerings, relax with one of the numerous global newspapers available or befriend a local and finish your day with a game of chess. You’ll have experienced Stockholm, and done so on a budget that any Cheapo would love.

A delicious moment at Maoz in Amsterdam. Photo: Sairenso

By Amy Goemans in Amsterdam—

Who says that every type of fast food is bad for you? Maoz, a popular fast-food franchise in Amsterdam, breaks the norm with their delicious vegetarian on-the-go snacks. At the very least, Maoz offers Cheapos a healthy quick meal at a modest price.

A bit of History

Maoz is a chain of vegetarian eateries that started out in Amsterdam. Established in 1991, it has since expanded to cities across the globe, including London, Paris, Barcelona, Philadelphia, and New York.

The aim of the founders was to win folks over with sumptuous vegetarian foods. Thus, they introduced the Maoz sandwich, and packed it full of healthy ingredients. The sandwich itself is a simple pita bread shell that is filled with treats like chickpea-filled falafel balls, spices like garlic, parsley and coriander, and other ingredients like hummus, feta cheese and avocado. Hungry yet?

The Combos

At Maoz, you order a basic sandwich and then head to the salad bar for toppings. There are a few sandwich types you can pick as your base (the falafel Maoz, salad pita, or egg pita) and then fill up with the topping of your choice. Choices include carrot salad, broccoli, cucumber, dill, couscous and a number of yummy sauces.

Maoz sandwiches come in two sizes and you can opt for French fries or salad on the side. The base pitas start at €4 and extras on the side can be added for €2-3. Meal deals, offering a sandwich with fries and a drink, run €6-8.

Note: There might be a small variation in price depending on the location. We’ve noticed that the stores in busier areas offered lower prices.

Locations

There are a number of Maoz eateries in Amsterdam. They include:

Muntplein 1, 1017 Ck Amsterdam
Sun -Thu 11 am - 1 am
Fri-Sat 11 am – 3 am

Leidsestraat 85, 1017 NX Amsterdam
Sun -Thu 11 am - 1 am
Fri-Sat 11 am – 3 am

Oudebrugsteeg 30, Amsterdam, Noord-Holland 1012 JP
Sun -Thu 11 am - 1 am
Fri-Sat 11 am – 3 am

Van Woustraat 15, 1074 Amsterdam
Sun -Thu 11 am - 10 pm
Fri-Sat 11 am – midnight

Ferdinand Bolstraat 67
1072 LC, Amsterdam
Mon – Sun 11 am - 11 pm

Leaves in in Gallecs, Catalonia. Photo by Horitzons Inesperats.

By Regina Winkle-Bryan in Barcelona–

Fall is creeping into northeastern Spain ever so slowly. Today I even saw someone swimming in the Mediterranean, mind you, it is far too cold for that nonsense. We know the seasons are changing here in Barcelona, because all non-palm trees are beginning to shed their leaves, which is especially obvious on the tree-lined Rambla.

Replacing lush leaves are the “Yam Guys.” This is not their real name, but it’s what I call them. They show up as the weather gets nippy and set up their food carts throughout town. Their operation is simple, nothing more than a BBQ grill and a cash box, plus a stack of old newsprint to wrap up the chestnuts and barbecued yams that they sell for a couple euros. I strongly recommend the yams—they’re a strange sort of street food, but very delicious and seem to embody autumn with their sweet burnt flavors.

Looking for leaves around Barcelona

While it is clear that fall is here, those who want to see forests ablaze in reds, yellows and tangerines will have to hit the road and get out of the city. Sad but true, Barcelona does not have enough in the way of green spaces for one to take much notice of fall colors. That and the fact that many of the trees here are of the tropical variety.

Instead, head for the mountains, the Pyrenees to be exact, just an hour and forty-five minutes from the city due north. Along the highways that run up to Spanish-French border town Puigcerda, you’ll find plenty of autumn splendor tucked amongst quaint Catalan villages.

Do yourself a favor and rent a car to really get out into the countryside. Sure, you could take the RENFE train inland and glimpse some fall shades, but a car will get you out into the thick of the color-fest. (Note: Catalonia is not Connecticut, but there is still fall flare to be had!)

I recommend the following route for fall colors and nature lovers:

Take the C-16 north from Barcelona all the way to Puigcerda. Stay the night there if you can, or at one of the smaller (and most likely cheaper) villages along the way. On the way back to Barcelona take the long way home heading west to La Seu d’Urgell and then swinging south again towards the city.

To make renting a car budget-friendly, try to get a few people to go in a group to share gas costs. Also, consider renting on off-days (week days) or reserving the car ahead of time which can also save you some dinero. Lately, because fall is off-season here, there have been some great car rental deals with the company Sixt.com.

For extra savings, grab a couple of yams and a newspaper full of chestnuts for road grub from the Yam Guys. Happy Trails!

The SNCF station at Charles de Gaulle airport.

By Liz Webber–

As Cheapos know, it’s almost always less expensive to buy train tickets directly through the website of a country’s national rail service rather than through RailEurope’s English-language site or overseas agents, especially for France’s TGV system. Fares can also be cheaper booking online than buying the tickets in person at the station.

However, booking a ticket in another language can be intimidating. France’s SNCF website is fairly easy to navigate, but if your French doesn’t extend much beyond “Parlez-vous anglais?” use this cheat sheet to book day trips from Paris or crisscross the country!

Step 1: Choose where and when you’re going

The SNCF homepage. Be strong!

On the SNCF homepage, there is a box on the left-hand side for quickly booking trains. First, enter the “départ” (where you’re ”departing” from) and “arrivée” (where you’ll be “arriving”).

Next choose your departure date in the box next to “Aller le” (”going the…”) and return date in the box next to “Retour le” (”returning the…”). If it’s a one-way journey (“aller-simple”) leave the return date blank. Note that the dates follow the European format of DD/MM/YYYY.

Also choose your desired departure time for both directions (“à partir de” means “starting from”). Remember that these times will be written in standard 24-hour format.

Specify how many people will be traveling using the drop-down menu next to “Adultes” (adults), and select either first or second class.

For direct trains only (without transfers), click the box marked “trajets directs.” Then hit the orange “Rechercher” (”search”) button to begin searching for tickets.

Note: Under the search box, you’ll notice a tempting array of little flags. If you’re already feeling a bit nervous, you’ll understandably be drawn to the English flag. Sure, clicking it will change the language to English–but it will also send all results through RailEurope, a helpful agency for foreign tourist that usually adds a substantial mark-up to ticket prices.

Step 2: Select your tickets

Now a page will open with options for the first half of your journey. Prices can vary greatly depending on the travel time and the day of the week, and only reflect half the cost of the total journey for a round-trip ticket (“aller-retour”). However, when booking for more than one person at a time the price reflects the total cost for all tickets.

The box at the top shows all the options at a glance, from which you can then scroll down to select the one that best fits your specifications. Tickets are color-coded by price range, whereby orange designates the cheapest fares, blue more moderate fares, and gray the most expensive.

When you check one of the circles to choose a ticket, a so-small-you-might-miss-it box pops up underneath all the options for that departure time that says “Choisir Ma Place” (“Choose My Seat”). From the drop-down menu, specify if you’d like to sit “à côté de” (next to) a particular seat, or simply give a preference for “fenêtre” (window) or “couloir” (aisle). Pretty much all trains in France have assigned seats, so be sure to keep that in mind when you go to board.

Note: If you’ve selected an “iDTGV” train, you will be permitted to choose your “ambiance.” “iDzap” is a train friendly to portable electronics, DVDs, cellphones, etc., while ”iDzen” restricts electronics, cellphones, and anything that makes noise.

Be careful of tickets marked only “non échangeable” (non-exchangeable) or “non remboursable” (non-refundable), though most fares cannot be exchanged or refunded “après départ” (after departure). Certain tickets must be paid for online and printed at home – if so the fine print will read “Paiement en ligne. Billet à imprimer vous-même” (”Online payment. Print your own ticket.”)

Once you have figured out what time you want to leave and have chosen your seat, click the orange box directly underneath marked “Valider cet aller” (”Validate this part of the trip”). Make sure you hit the right one!

You’ll then go through the same process again for the return journey. Again, remember that the price is for one way of the journey.

Step 3: Payment

On the following page, confirm that all parts of your journey are correct then click “Valider votre réservation” (”Validate your reservation”) to proceed.

Next come three questions before the actual payment.

IMPORTANT: Since the majority of SNCF ticket machines do not accept American credit cards, be sure to click “Gare ou boutique” (”Rail station or boutique”) for question 1 in order to pick up your tickets from a ticket window at the station. Also note that if you’re booking an iDTGV (as pictured), you will only be given the option of printing your own ticket.

Question 2 requires the input of a “civilité” (”title”), “nom” (”LAST name”), “prénom” (”FIRST name”) and e-mail address for confirmation purposes.

Under question 3, check the box to indicate that you agree with the SNCF terms and conditions. Then click “Valider votre commande” (”Validate your order”).

Finally, it’s time to enter your credit card information. Note: The card you use to book must be presented to pick up your tickets, so be sure to use the card that you’ll be taking with you on your trip.

After entering all your data, hit the “valider” button one last time to complete the transaction. A screen should pop up with your confirmation code, which will also be sent in an email along with your itinerary. Print either for your records and to bring with you when you collect your tickets.

Step 4: Picking up your tickets

Now comes the easy part! Simply head to your departure station with your credit card and booking number to get your tickets. Many SNCF agents even speak English and so can help you make any changes to your reservation and get you to where you’re supposed to be.

Departure tracks are usually announced 20-30 minutes before the train is scheduled to leave, so be sure to leave enough time to pick up your tickets and figure out where you need to go. And don’t forget to stamp your ticket in the machine by the track before getting on the train!

Bonus tip: Reserve now, pay later

The SNCF website lets you reserve a ticket online without paying for it in advance or even giving a credit card. On the pre-payment page, instead of clicking “Gare ou boutique” under question 1 hit “Option.” The red text lets you know the date and time by which you need to confirm your reservation (usually 24 or 48 hours before departure), and you’ll receive an email with a booking code.

If you’re not sure what your schedule will be like or don’t want to give out your information online, reserve your seat then bring your confirmation number to the station before departure to pick up and pay for your tickets.

Buying olives at London's Borough Market. Photo by Kulbowski.

By Justin Bergman in London—

If it’s a weekend in London, then it’s market time, no matter what season. Londoners are undeniably proud of their markets and not just because some of them date back to medieval times. The city’s markets are hands down the best places to find bargains, whether you are looking for vintage clothes, artisanal cheeses or bouquets of lilies. They also can’t be beat for people watching, particularly Broadway Market on a Saturday (see below).

So grab an eco-friendly cloth bag (nothing else will do in London), make sure you have lots of cash, and get shopping—here’s my guide for navigating the busy weekend market schedule and making sure you hit the right spots at the right times.

Borough Market

What it’s good for: Food, glorious food.
When to go: Thursdays (11 AM - 5 PM), Fridays (noon - 6 PM), Saturdays (8 AM - 5 PM)
Location: Underneath London Bridge on the Thames at the London Bridge Tube stop.
Website: www.boroughmarket.co.uk

The lowdown: One of the biggest outdoor food markets in the world, Borough Market is a must for any foodie… well, any visitor to London, really. You can find just about anything here: organic meats, gourmet cheeses, fruits and vegetables, unbelievable pork pies, venison burgers, giant cauldrons of Jamaican curries and paellas, and of course lots of sweets. Prices are relatively reasonable, too. Expect to pay about £5-10 for lunch.

Broadway Market

Broadway Market. Photo Mermaid99

What it’s good for: A little bit of everything and the best people watching.
When to go: Saturdays from 11 AM - 6 PM
Location: Broadway Market (it’s a street) in Hackney, East London.
Nearest train stop is London Fields on the National Express overground line (from Liverpool St. Station).
Website: www.broadwaymarket.com

The lowdown: What started off as a small neighborhood market has in recent years started to draw in folks from all over the city to pick up vintage clothes, organic meats and cheeses, artisanal cupcakes, and crafts from local boutiques.

It’s small—just one street—but you can easily while away an afternoon snacking and watching the East End fashionistas strutting up and down the road like it’s a catwalk. Finish off the day with a couple pints at one of the two local pubs—Cat & Mutton or the Dove.

Columbia Road Flower Market

Columbia Road flower market. Photo: Dinoboy.

What it’s good for: Flowers, plus shopping at independent boutiques.
When to go: Sundays from 8 AM - 4 PM
Location: Columbia Road in Hackney, East London. Nearest tube is Old Street.
Website: www.columbiaroad.info

The lowdown: Noisy, crowded and unmistakably London, this market gives you the best flavor of what market day was probably like in Victorian times. The flower vendors try to out-shout each other with their cockney accents and their impossibly low prices: “Ten roses for a fiver! Ten roses for a fiver! Get ’em before they’re gone!”

The other reason to go is the line of cute boutiques, cupcake shops, perfumeries, and art galleries lining the road, many of which only open their doors on Sundays. Be sure to check out Ryantown, where London artist Rob Ryan sells his quirky wall hangings made of cut paper.

Brick Lane

What it’s good for: Vintage and indie designer clothing, exotic foods.
When to go: Sundays from 10 AM - 6 PM
Location: Brick Lane, East London. Nearest tube is Liverpool Street.
Website: www.sundayupmarket.com

The lowdown: Heaving on weekends and as chaotic as East London gets, with vintage clothes sellers, student fashion designers, ethnic food hawkers and locals with all sorts of bric-a-brac spread out on blankets all vying for your attention.

Two spots not the miss: the Upmarket in the Old Truman Brewery (where most of the clothing is found), and the food vendors in the courtyard behind it—you’ll find everything from Sri Lankan to Mauritian to Mexican (spelled “Maxican” by the Chinese stall owners). Don’t waste your time at the Spitalfields Market next door—it pales in comparison to this raucous party.