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The Local Cuisine of Frankfurt, Germany

Sascha Matuszak — Mon, 13 Jul 2009 14:52:17 +0000

Frankfurt cuisine revolves around a few dishes, without which any dining experience in the city must be considered incomplete.

One of them, Gruene Sosse (Green Sauce), is an emulsion of eggs and oil with a variety of green herbs (dill, parsley, sorrel, chives and others) that was Johann Wolfgang von Goethe’s favorite dish. He covered potatoes and meat with the sauce and most likely downed it with another Frankfurt specialty, Apfelwein (hard apple cider.)

Legend has it that Apfelwein became popular in the Frankfurt area several hundred years ago because it was impossible to get a hold of wine. Hessians still wanted to drink, so they created this tart cider. It is normally served in a “Geripptes” glass, which has small diamond-like lozenges that help refract light. It is common for children as young as 12 to drink Ebbelwoi, as the locals call it, and it can be mixed with tonic water, Coca Cola or even Fanta, depending on one’s preference.

Most Ebbelwoi establishments will serve the local and regional favorites as well, such as Frankfurter Wuerstchen, a tasty sausage with an audible snap, served with mustard and a Broetchen (roll), or with Sauerkraut. Other yummy dishes include Rippchen, cooked pork served with Sauerkraut or Schweinshaxe, (pig knuckles) that are weighed on the spot and served with mashed potatoes and Sauerkraut.

A lighter meal would be four boiled eggs with Gruene Sosse or Tartarrenbrot, an open-faced sandwich with raw beef, pickles and onions.

There are countless Ebbelwoi joints on the south side of the Main River in Sachsenhausen. It is possible to find good dishes anywhere in FFM (Frankfurt), but if you want the authentic (and the best,) Sachsenhausen is the place to go.

A few Frankfurt Restaurants of note are:

Sachsenhaeuser Warte: The old guard tower at the edge of Sachsenhausen is now a restaurant serving classic Frankfurt cuisine with all of the above as well as various versions of the Schnitzel cut and Leberknoedel, a ball of liver, onions, pickles and spices served with mashed potatoes and sauce.

Zum Gemalten Haus: A must for visitors to FFM. You cannot go wrong here with any of the dishes and if you are real hungry, grab a Sachshaeuser Pfanne, a huge plate of eggs, potatoes, sausage, onions and spices.

Apfelweinwirtschaft Adolf Wagner: Drink Ebbelwoi here. The place is always packed but you can squeeze in next to some locals and they’ll tell you tall tales in Hessian-accented English.

Zum Feuerraedchen: Its hard to say which Ebbelwoi joint is the best in Sachsenhausen, but you can have fun trying a few out. After getting tipsy at Wagner, head here and pour it on.

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France’s Famed Parfumerie Fragonard

Jen Westmoreland Bouchard — Mon, 13 Jul 2009 14:29:41 +0000

To tell you the truth, I’ve never been much of a fine perfume person. Don’t get me wrong, I’d never turn away a bottle of Chanel No. 5 if it were given to me as a gift, but I rarely shop for perfume on my own. However, after an informational trip to Fragonard, the famous French parfumerie (with shops in Grasse, Eze and Paris), my perspective changed. Like all fine French products, the history of perfume is rich and fascinating. Parfumerie Fragonard’s story is no exception.

Just before World War I, Eugène Fuchs, an entrepreneur and perfume affectionado, founded a perfumery on the French Riveria. His initial concept was to sell perfume and related products directly to tourists. In 1926. Perfumerie Fragonard, named after the famous painter, Jean-Honoré Fragonard (1732-1806), opened its doors in Grasse. Since then, Fragonard has been run by three subsequent generations of Fuch’s family. In the 1970s, Jean-Francois Costa led Parfumerie Fragonard through a period of expansion and modernization, opening shops in Eze and Paris. Today, Jean-François Costa’s daughters, Agnès and Françoise, continue to build the company while adapting it to current customers’ demands.

Fragonard’s perfume, soap and cosmetics factory is located on the Moyenne Corniche between Nice and Monaco. They offer a lovely 20 minute free guided tour (offered in all European languages) that explains the perfume making process. Of course, the tour ends at their extensive perfume shop, in which you can buy some of their one of a kind scents in plain bottles at a reduced price. I personally fell in love with Billet Doux, one of their signature scents that is celebrating its 50th anniversary this year.

In the centre (downtown area) of Eze (a few miles from the Fragonard factory), Fragonard has a lovely perfume and gift shop, featuring re-editions of antique jewelry, embroidered household linen, traditional Provençal quilting, glassware and wickerwork, preserves, perfumes, and natural aromatic oils. If you find yourself in Paris, Fragonard’s Musée du parfum is worth a visit. Opened in 1983, it is located near the Opéra Garnier in a beautiful Napoleon III era house built in 1860 by Lesoufaché (a student of Garnier). The inner décor is true to the period. As you walk from room to room, you’ll have the chance to explore a well-organized and interesting collection of perfumery objects from several centuries. Like the factory, the museum offers free guided tours in all European languages.

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Teach English in Europe and Explore the Continent

Katie Hammel — Sun, 12 Jul 2009 15:42:45 +0000

There is a great demand for native English speakers to teach the language in European countries. As English becomes more and more widely used in business around the world, the need for fluency increases.
Children generally learn English in school while adults may attend English-language training centers or hire private tutors. Teaching English in Europe allows you to live in a new culture temporarily and generally pays well enough to fund multiple travels around your home base. If you are interested in teaching English in Europe, here’s what you need to know.

Requirements

Just as with jobs in the US, requirements vary depending on employer. Those with previous teaching experience will have the easiest time landing a job, especially in a public elementary school or high school, and will usually secure the better paying jobs first. Most language schools only require that you hold a Bachelor’s degree in any field. A TEFL (teaching English as a foreign language) certification helps, especially if you don’t have a degree, and can help you secure a better compensation package. Knowing the language of the country is not required as classes are conducted completely in English.

Benefits

Salary and benefits will vary depending on where you teach. Pay is generally better in major cities than in more rural areas, though some jobs in rural areas will offer more benefits like free accommodation to attract qualified teachers. Before accepting a job, find out exactly what is offered by way of compensation and how many hours you will work. Compare the compensation to the average cost of living. Even though pay is lower in rural areas, the cost of living may be lower, allowing you to live comfortably on a lower wage than what you’d need in the city. Some jobs offer just a salary while others include flight reimbursement, bonuses, health insurance, an apartment or an accommodation stipend, and daily transportation to the job site. Days off and teaching hours can vary as well depending on the country and the school. Most jobs offer 10-20 days of vacation each year and require a minimum or 20 hours of work per week. Most jobs will require that you commit to 6-12 months of work though summer camp opportunities are also available. Many language schools will also offer teachers a discount on foreign language classes, so if you are teaching in Spain and want to learn Spanish, you can do so relatively cheaply.

Where to Teach

It’s often more difficult to find a job in Western Europe without an EU work permit. Spain is the easiest of these countries in which to get hired , and often doesn’t require a Bachelor’s degree, but getting hired in advance is very difficult. The best way to look for a job is to arrive in the country and approach language schools for an interview. By obtaining your TEFL certification in the country, you’ll make contacts that will aid you in the job search. Other popular countries include Czech Republic, Poland, Turkey, Russia and Estonia, where it’s easier to find a job from overseas. These countries don’t pay as much as those in Western Europe, but the cost of living is lower.

Choosing a TEFL Course

There are a variety of TEFL courses out there, some better than others. Just be sure the certificate you seek is internationally recognized. Talking to former students is a good way to gauge the quality of a school; you can also do a Google search to read online reviews. Certification classes are offered online and in person, both in the US and around the world. Online classes allow you to take the class around your schedule, even while you maintain a job in the US. However, they don’t provide the same hands-on training that an in-person class does. If you have no prior teaching experience it’s better to get the hands-on classroom training. Many teachers recommend taking the course in the country in which you intend to teach. The contacts you make in the course will help you get a job.

The Teaching Experience

The TEFL course will give you all the practical knowledge you need to get started. Some schools allow you to design your own lessons, while others have a set curriculum to follow. Your schedule and classes may vary widely. You may be teaching young children, high-schoolers, or even adults. You might find you are teaching the same age group all day long or you might be teaching adults in the morning and kids in the afternoon. You might stay at one school all day or travel around to different locations. It really does vary widely by school, with some giving you more control over your schedule than others. Jobs are usually paid hourly, so the more you work the more you earn. Some teachers even supplement their regular jobs with private tutoring on the side.

What Makes a Good Teacher

Most of the instruction consists of simple conversation so the best teachers compliment that with a very outgoing personality. Teachers also need to be creative and motivating to engage students who aren’t interested, and need to be flexible as the schedules can vary so much.

Teachers also need to be hard-working and committed. Teaching English in Europe is most certainly a job – one that can be both difficult and stressful at times. But in exchange for working hard, teachers are able to spend time in a foreign culture, and use their days off to travel into the surrounding areas. Teaching English abroad can be a rewarding job, and will allow you to spend an extended amount of time living in Europe.

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“Sur le pont d’Avignon”, France

Jen Westmoreland Bouchard — Sun, 12 Jul 2009 15:32:45 +0000

I first remember hearing the song “Sur le pont d’Avignon,” during my grade school French class. After I announced that I would be majoring in French in college, my dad, a professional musician who’s only contact with French has been through music, would jokingly begin most phone conversations by singing “Sur le pont d’Avignon” (or if he was feeling really motivated, “La fleur que tu m’avais jetée” from Bizet’s famous opera, Carmen). Now, whenever I hear the name “Avignon,” I have an uncontrollable musical response and the song lyrics flood my mind, making it impossible to hear the rest of what is being said! Despite this fact, I had never been to Avignon before my most recent trip to France. Let’s just say both the “Pont”and the city itself live up to their international fame garnered by the song.

Avignon’s architecture is marked by centuries of papal history. One of the main tourist attractions is Le Palais des Pâpes (The Palace of the Popes), which was built in the 14th century and now overlooks a lively square. The museums housed in the Petit Palais and Palais du Roure (not far from The Palace of the Popes) are also worth a visit. Of course, the famous Pont d’Avignon (Le pont de Saint Bénézet) is a must see. Stop a few kilometers out of the town for the best photo opportunities.

I simply enjoyed wandering through Avignon’s winding streets, admiring the private mansions and lovely facades. One of the most beautiful streets is rue Joseph Vernet, near the Calvet and Requien Museums. The Place de l’Horloge is a great spot for people-watching. However, if you want great food at better prices, it’s best to seek out a brasserie on one of the low-key side streets off of Place de l’Horloge (not on the touristy rue de la République). The “clock square” houses the grandiose Hôtel de Ville with its large animated clock, the Opéra, and a lovely carousel. From this central location, tourists can access routes to the Palais de Pâpes, and Pont d’Avignon.

While you’re near Place de l’Horloge, look for a handsome gentleman selling silver jewelry. If it’s Sarl Demiurgos, you’re in for a treat. His creations are lovely and very reasonably priced. Sarl is a great conversationalist in both French and English. I have fond memories of our chat and I’m still enjoying the unique sterling pieces I purchased from him.

Avignon is famous on an international scale for it’s annual theater festival, Festival d’Avignon , in July and August. The tradition began in 1947, and now Avignon welcomes nearly 120,000 spectators and theater aficionados each summer. Running parallel to the Festival d’Avignon is Festival Off d’Avignon (The Off Festival), a series of street shows and labs set up by aspiring actors. These performances typically take place late at night after the plays sponsored by the theater festival have finished for the evening.

If you’re looking for a charming city with a grand history and thriving arts scene, you will surely not be disappointed by a stay in lively Avignon.

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Seeking Sanctuary on Borgo Santissimi Apostoli, Florence

Cheryl Tucker — Sat, 11 Jul 2009 13:28:12 +0000

It’s late spring, unseasonably hot, and I’m amidst the clamoring crowds walking toward Ponte Vecchio on via Por Santa Maria. It’s dusk, and for some reason the sun seems to strike more intensly upon setting in the western sky. I need a refuge. Instead of following the map-wielding, chatty crowds, I take a right on Borgo Santissimi Apostoli for sanctuary.

It’s dark and quiet—and, best of all, cool. The late light cuts a slant into this medieval, narrow street, and I watch as willow seeds, the sun glinting off them, float in the air. My meditative moment is quickly crushed, however, when I slap my arm to kill a blood-sucking creature—the zanzara (mosquito). Summer is upon us!

I keep walking and come upon the towering Gallery Hotel Art on my left, its entrance on the adjacent Viccolo dell’ Oro. Because the viccolo is rather wide, the sun pours light on the hotel’s modern pristine ivory façade. The Ferragamo family created this hotel in 1999, and perhaps as a tribute to history, left elements of the fifteenth-century stonework of the palazzo underneath.

On the side of the Gallery Hotel facing Borgo S.S. Apostoli are large windows with only plain white panels. I wonder very much what’s inside. A large, medieval door suddenly opens and a young woman pops out for a cigarette. ‘Che cosa fai di bello?’ she shouts into her cell phone. I cross the street and soon hear a rumbling behind me. I jump to the sidewalk (and these sidewalks do seem unjustifiably narrow) just in time to avoid being hit by one of those orange minibuses that operate only in the city center. Where is my peace?

I happen to come right up to the Buondelmonti Tower (no. 10). Though this twelfth-century tower was first home to the family of the same name, it was later occupied in the fourteenth century by the Acciaiuoli, a powerful banking family of Florence. This tower is one of the tallest left in Florence. The Palazzo Acciaiuoli is attached, but the one the family was most well known for used to sit right on the Arno, across the street. Unfortunately, this palazzo was lost in 1944 when a German mine exploded. The name of this stretch along the river is Lungarno Acciaiuoli. Today within the tower (no. 18/R) is a shop called Infinity Leather, and in the palace next door is the posh Hotel Torre Guelfa.

Just as I’m bemoaning the idea that historical monuments in Florence are sold out for cold commerce, I hit upon the sounds of chatter and clinking wine glasses at Mangiafoco Café (26/R), a wine bar that, at 7 in the evening, is fairly packed. For a street that seems a little stuffy and dark, it’s refreshing to see Mangiafoco’s playful orange, fuscia, and violet sign and to sense something festive in the air.

I move on, the music fading away, when a vista of green opens up to my right—a lush garden behind gates, with no name or explanation. There is a lovely white sculpture of a man’s head above the arched doorway, but that is all. Just next door to the garden is the haute couture jewelry shop, Angela Caputi. The window display is fantastic: Tropical leaves surround two green chairs. On each chair sits a large purse stuffed with bright, colorful scarves: one purse is blue, the other red. Handcrafted jewelry drapes over a bed of leaves below the chairs. In the next window, brightly colored necklaces are slung over a canary yellow chair that is tipped precariously. It’s a gorgeous ensemble.

I am now standing opposite the famous Piazza del Limbo, that precious, sunken-in piazza that boasts the Chiesa di Santi Apostoli. But before I descend, I take in the nineteenth-century building on my side of the street, the Bagni Nelle Antiche Terme, which stands on the site of the original Roman baths. Antonio Peppini funded the construction of this building in 1826 (his name adorns the building) to be used once again for the city’s public baths. It is now a high-end tailor shop, Bottega delle Antiche Terme di Simone Abbarchi (no. 16).

Finally, I step into the piazza. This piazza is the heart of Borgo Santissimi Apostoli. Here lies the reason for the name of the street: the Chiesa di Santi Apostoli is dedicated to Saints Peter and Paul. The source of the name of the Piazza del Limbo is quite dark: underneath is the former graveyard site for unbaptized babies—hence they are in spiritual ‘limbo.’ The Romanesque church is one of the oldest in Florence: it dates to 1075. It is also one of the most beautiful. Brunelleschi is said to have been inspired to create Santo Spirito after visiting this chiesa. A plaque just outside claims that Charlemagne founded this church, but no records confirming this have been found.

Just across the square, the glass doors and gold logo of the modern Hotel Berchielli (no. 6/R) contrast with the church’s eleventh-century church façade. Straight ahead is a narrow walkway to Lungarno Acciaiuoli that oddly resembles the shape of a keyhole.

Near the walkway is a marker noting the area’s high-water line for the 1966 flood. Because the piazza is sunken, it was particularly vulnerable to the ravages of the flood, and the church and its masterpieces inside did not escape damage. Thankfully, so much has survived.

It is darker now, and I ascend out of limbo to continue my walk down the street. A colorful doorway up ahead, overflowing with baskets of fruits, vegetables, and flowers, immediately catches my eye. The doorway is loaded with everything from oranges to spinach to lilacs. The shop, Frutti e Ortaggi, was founded in 1934, and therefore it is a negozio storico. The shop’s owner, Sandra Fancelli, decorates the storefront every day. Like Mangiafoco, it is a wonderful scene to come upon; the rich, vibrant colors of the fruits and vegetables liven up this quite dusky medieval street.

I take the turn in the road that opens onto Piazza della Trinità, and the noise of the city slowly returns. The aroma of meat and garlic wafts from the open door to the busy kitchen of Trattoria Carrozze. Motorbikes buzz and buses squeal on via de’ Tornabuoni. As I return to the crowds, I reflect that living in Florence is always a combination of busy, loud, and intense energy, punctuated by brief, meditative moments, taken by surprise. There is no escape, after all, because at any second the energy can shift; to enjoy the quiet is the same as enjoying the intensity—it’s all one. And likewise, the city’s startlingly vibrant colors—a bright red scarf in a window, a burst of purple lilacs at a shop—only stand out because they are set against the simple, grey stonework of a palazzo.
I enter the fray once again, a little more at peace.

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Drinks in Paris’ Montmartre at L’été en pente douce

Jen Westmoreland Bouchard — Fri, 10 Jul 2009 14:15:51 +0000

Last time I was in Paris, I met up with my good French friend and host sister (from my study abroad days in college) who had recently scored an amazing apartment in Paris’ coveted Montmartre neighborhood. When she asked where my husband and I would like to go for a drink, I responded that I wanted to visit her place and then go to her favorite bar or terrasse (outside seating area). So, we hopped on the Métro and headed to the Anvers stop. As we walked up the hill, past all of the fabric shops this area is known for among Parisians, Sacré Coeur glowed white and majestic above us. My French sister indulged our tourist instincts and encouraged us to stop for a photo op.

After a tour of her apartment and courtyard (yes, I was quite envious!), we decided to grab a drink and some light snacks on the lovely terrasse of L’été en pente douce, located at the top of rue Muller. This charming restaurant/tearoom opened in 1990 and is named after a 1987 Gerard Krawczyk film that is set in Montmartre. I was immediately won over by the lively ambiance on la terrasse and the many locals who, according to my friend, frequented this spot. The name L’été en pente douce is loosely translated as Summer on a gentle slope.

As I opened the menu, I was even more impressed. They had a healthy wine list and the prices were more than reasonable. We decided on a bottle of Breton cider (an homage to the time we had spent together in Rennes 9 years ago). There was a glass full of Japanese rice snacks in different flavors on our table that we promptly demolished. Our server was happy to bring us refills, gratuit (free). He was friendly and attentive, perhaps because our good friend is a self-proclaimed “regular.” For our second round, we shared bottle of La Treille Muscate at a very reasonable 15€. We also ordered their cheese platter, a steal at 5.90€.

As a “recovering vegetarian,” I happened to notice that there were quite a few vegetarian options on the menu (a rarity in France). According to my friend, lunches and dinners at L’été en pente douce are as satisfying and reasonably priced as our cocktails and cheese platter. I look forward to my next stroll through Montmartre (hopefully sooner rather than later). I will be sure to stop by L’été en pente douce again, this time for a meal.

L’été en pente douce
23, rue Muller, Paris
France 75018 (Montmartre)
Phone: 01 42 64 02 67
Open 7 days a week from noon to 1am (later on some evenings).

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Boating in France: A Cruise on the Saone

Neil Malling — Fri, 10 Jul 2009 13:03:46 +0000

The last cruise we wrote about this summer was on the Burgundy Canal from St. Jean du Losne to Dijon and back. We are currently in the middle of a cruise on the Saone river from St. Jean to Chalon sur Saone.

There are some significant differences between cruising canals and navigable rivers. Perhaps the most notable is that on most rivers there are a lot fewer locks. Our Dijon canal cruise took us through 48 locks in 60 kilometers (36 miles) while this river cruise will have a total of only 4 locks in 96 kilometers (57 miles). We don’t mind locks, one gets used to them, but since an unexpected side current on the approach or a mooring line jammed in a crack in the stone lock wall can instantly create difficulties, one does have to stay constantly alert and focused on what is happening. So the fewer locks, the more relaxing the cruise. Also, the locks are much larger than on the canals and, in general, much easier to pass through.

The Saone is a very nice river to cruise, since in addition to fewer locks, it is comfortably wide, the channel well marked, and there was not a lot of current on this trip. In addition, there are a number of small and medium sized towns along the way, many of them with mooring facilities. This makes for short cruising days, if you wish, and lots of opportunities to visit places that are, in many cases, well off the beaten tourist path. Most of the time there were no other boats in sight, and it was just us, the fishermen, and the herons and swans.

Our overnight stop on this cruise to Chalon was at the town of Seurre. The pontoon provided by the town cost us only 11 € (about US$15) including shore power and water and was only a ten minute walk from the main shopping street. Having gotten away early that morning, we arrived in time to buy fresh vegetables and fruit, as well as a small goat cheese, at the Saturday outdoor market before it closed at noon. With fresh bread from one of the several bakeries and half of a roasted chicken from a butcher, we were set for meals for the day as well as for Sunday, when almost all shops in Seurre are closed.

Seurre doesn’t rate a listing in the Michelin Green Guide, but it has a number of interesting buildings and architectural details from the past few centuries, such as half-timbered houses, corner circular turrets, and stepped brick gables that would be expected in Belgium or Holland, but not here. The tourist office was helpful, but unfortunately this weekend was between events, except for an evening organ concert in the church. We got to listen to a few minutes of the afternoon rehearsal when we visited the church, but decided to give the concert a pass.

As always, there were the local cafes with people chatting over small cups of espresso or a cold beer, or gathered under the trees in the park near the port, discussing whatever comes to mind on hot Saturday afternoons. Others were fishing off the riverbank, and a bride and groom were having wedding pictures taken at a picturesque spot by the port. In other words, a very relaxing typical French small town Saturday afternoon.

Since afternoon rain showers were predicted, we departed early Sunday morning after I walked up for a fresh baguette from the nearest bakery. As on Saturday, we encountered only a few other boats on the river, sharing the one lock with one of our pontoon neighbors from the prior evening. We arrived in Chalon early afternoon, found a mooring on the pontoon and headed for the tourist office for maps and information. Next week, we’ll write about our stay in Chalon.

For over eight years, Neil and Joan have been spending their summers cruising the canals and rivers of Western Europe aboard their now thirty-year-old Dutch motor-cruiser, the “Estate.” This year they are sharing their experiences.

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Historic and Authentic Bamberg, Germany

Michael Orr — Thu, 09 Jul 2009 19:25:36 +0000

Forty miles north of Nürnberg in the German state of Bavaria is the historic city of Bamberg. Divided in half by the Regnitz River, Bamberg is a rare German city in that it escaped Allied bombing during World War II. While other cities have been rebuilt or redesigned, Bamberg retains much of its original infrastructure and charm. As a result, the city is a perfect example of the Franconian region of northern Bavaria.

The city survived the war because it did not house major weapons production and was not an industrial base for the Nazis. Escaping the catastrophic treatment of cities like Nürnberg and Dresden, Bamberg features some of the oldest standing buildings in all of Germany. The Bamberg Cathedral was constructed in 1237, the Michaelskirche Monastery erected in the twelfth century and what is now known as the Old Town Hall was built in 1386. In fact, the Old Town Hall was placed on a small island in the middle of the Regnitz River as a means of protection, with a bridge spanning the river allowing today for up close viewing of the beautifully painted exterior walls that have survived the centuries.

Bamberg can claim many historic anecdotes but perhaps most unique is its status as the final resting place of a Pope. This fact is unique because apart from Pope Clement II, no other Pope is buried north of the Alps. Clement II previously served the church as Bishop of Bamberg from 1040-1046. Elected Pope in 1046 after a series of controversial councils and deposed European leaders, he went to Rome to lead the church. Yet less than a year into his reign, Clement II died of lead sugar poisoning while traveling across Italy. His body was returned to Bamberg, the city he adored, and was interred in the western choir of Bamberg Cathedral where he remains today.

While Pope Clement II came to rest in Bamberg when his life was over, there is a world-famous product that began its life in the Franconian city. In German it is called Rauchbier, or smoke beer. This type of beer is known around the world as both an interesting variety of brew as well as having originated in Bamberg. The flavors and aromas are created by drying malted barley over an open flame, providing the drinks with an aura of smoke. The Schlenkerla brewpub is a tavern in the middle of the city that produces and serves the famous brews to tourists and locals alike. The tavern was first mentioned in 1405 and is currently owned and operated by the sixth generation of a local family.

Bamberg is a small but dramatic city. The Little Venice area bordering the river displays classic examples of half-timber construction and German architecture. Massive churches rest on each of the seven hills of the city providing panoramic views from every crest. Yet despite the age of the city, Bamberg is young and alive with over nine thousand university students interspersed within a population of just seventy thousand. Though larger, more famous cities claim more publicity than Bamberg, none can match its intimacy, variety or authenticity.

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Insider’s Guide to Italy’s Amalfi Coast

Cam Hassard — Wed, 08 Jul 2009 15:04:48 +0000

Italy’s Amalfi Coast is one of the most spectacular stretches of coastline in all of Europe. The essence of its former glory is rife as you traverse the coastal road, it’s seaside villages, and strikingly romantic vistas.

The medieval town Amalfi remains the heart of the coast, a once affluent maritime hub and centre of International trade. With busy merchant routes from the Middle East, Africa and the Byzantine Empire, the melting pot of culture that flowed through Amalfi over the centuries left an indelible influence on its architectural beauty.

So much more than an idyllic tourist stop with a beautiful beach, Amalfi’s glorious history and visual magnificence will dazzle the eyes as well as the soul.

What to see in Amalfi

St Andrew’s Cathedral
The Romanesque-Arabian bell-tower of St Andrews Cathedral is the centrepiece of town, perched in the heart of La Piazza Duomo. With 62 steps leading up to the entrance, the 9th century black and white outer façade is a glorious sight to behold. A peek inside extends the wonder. Replete with Roman columns, gold Baroque-era decorations, multicoloured marble and ornate frescoes, the remains of St Andrew lay inside surrounded by architectural beauty.

Chiostro Del Paradiso
Directly next to St Andrews, the Chiostro Del Paradiso (Cloister of Paradise) is a stunning structure encompassing slanted archways and an array of slim Arabian-style columns. Ferns grace the interior garden area and yield an essence of paradise. Formerly the gravesite of noble Amalfis, the Chiostro today is home to a wealth of mosaics and paintings from the early 1200’s.

Piazza Duomo
The Piazza is the bustling heart of town, a main square where St. Andrews Cathedral and Ciostro conjoin. Lanes and alleys connect at the Piazza, festooned with souvenir stores, fine dining restaurants, cafes and tucked away bars.

Museo Della Carta
Amalfi is famed for being an early producer of paper, with numerous paper mills sprouting up in the area around 1200AD. Though the industry dwindled over time, The Museo Della Carta is a testament to the interesting history of the secret art of papermaking in Amalfi.

Museo Civico
The ‘Municipal Museum’ is located in the Town Hall, near the town centre, and is home to a range of historical documents and artifacts, most importantly the “Tavole Amalfitane“, the original copy of an ancient maritime code that was developed here in Amalfi.

Easy Daytrips from Amalfi

Ravello
Ravello is a small settlement perched high above Amalfi, with spectacular views overlooking the Mediterranean. Villa Cimbrone and Villa Rufolo are two famous gardens that adorn the panoramic Ravello lookout areas and serve as home to a series of dazzling classical music concerts between March and November. Ravello is accessible by bus, as well as a scenic, if not slightly exhausting uphill walk from Amalfi.

Atrani
Atrani is Amalfi’s little brother, a short 500 metre or ten minute walk around the coastal track. A collage of pale terraces positioned on a mountain curl, Atrani is a sleepier experience to that of Amalfi though no less appealing to the eye. Though a small town, it bears host to six beautiful medieval churches.

Positano
Just 25 minutes by ferry, Positano is equally romantic, beach adorned and idyllic, slightly more touristy, but no less beautiful. Restaurants, cafés and five star hotels are par for the course in this heavenly location.

Minori and Maiori
These two cosy fishing villages lurk further east around the coastal road and provide a lovely change of scene.

Amalfi Tips and Favourites

Wining and dining is a forte in Amalfi, with an array of wonderful restaurants to choose from. The seafood everywhere is fresh, so if you’re a fish or lobster fan, you’ve struck gold.

With only a brief time in Amalfi, we couldn’t explore the full gamut of gastronomic choices. However, the places we did frequent hit the spot nicely.

Da Zaccharia, despite the lack of menu and substantial cheque, is a great culinary experience. Perched romantically over the water, we enjoyed a sunset meal here that was unforgettable. Let the waiter bring you food on his recommendation, just make sure you’ve got the Euro to cover it.

For a more ‘home-style’ nightcap, we couldn’t resist a few sessions up at Willy’s Pub, an uphill walk along the Strada Statale. An englishman and eleven year Amalfi resident, Willy pulls a mean pint and provides a nice respite from the norm.

On a hot summer afternoon, watch life go by at any of the lovely cafes in Piazza Umberto in Atrani. Drink Limoncello to your heart’s content.

Before the sun departs, soak up the rays on the Amalfi and Atrani beaches and have a soothing dip in the salty Mediterranean.

For accommodation we chose the cute, budget Hostel A’Scalinatella, a quiet, family run lodge in the heart of Atrani.

A few days in Amalfi will have you begging for more. A week or two, however, would be ideal to really take in the visual splendour and rich culture. Summer gets extremely busy and traffic can be a nightmare, so if you want the beaches and restaurants to yourself, maybe try to work around July and August. Early June for us yielded a nice balance of vibrance, relaxation and fine weather.

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Nantes, France: the Nautical Ambiance that Inspired Jules Verne

Renee Altergott — Wed, 08 Jul 2009 14:38:52 +0000

Gazing out from the shelter of an umbrella across the Loire River to Nantes’ hazy industrial islands, you will be transported back in time to the mystical shores of adventure and scientific discovery enshrouding the novels of Jules Verne (1828 – 1905). He was born and raised on Île Feydeau, a former shipyard that has been recently transformed into a landscaped open-air leisure and exposition center. It is also the permanent host to the Machines of the Isle of Nantes collection. Among the collection’s curiosities is a larger-than-life mechanical elephant that tours the isle, plodding its iron limbs and spraying onlookers with its trunk, to the amusement of visitors atop its back.

There are many tributes to the French author tucked into this lush, rainy maritime city. The Jules Verne Museum, for example, sits atop a staircase viewpoint with balcony views of the Loire, and houses his manuscripts, furniture, machine replicas, and memorabilia. Other traces include Crêperie l’Île Mystérieuse, both an ode to the novel and an excellent restaurant boasting some of the best local Breton fare as well as an intimate setting, and a bright orange air balloon in the corner. Lining a staircase in the middle of the shopping district you’ll find a large mural highlighting Jules Verne’s monsters and machines.

Since Nantes is located only 30 miles from the Atlantic coast, many locals make a daytrip out of St. Nazaire or La Baule, a west-coast version of Nice, right at the mouth of the Loire. In Nantes, you’ll find all sorts of fresh (and often live) seafood displayed in front of restaurants, especially Place Graslin – known for its breathtaking roaring twenties déco and upscale delicacies. Or try the famous brasserie La Cigale - a perfect stop before a night at the Opera - just opposite the roundabout

Nantes is also home to the Châteaux des Ducs de Bretagne. Built in 1207, it offers a recently renovated interior and history museum. Musicians and students picnic down on the banks of its moat where there is a great view of the Musée des Beaux Arts and la Tour LU. The former Lefèvre-Utile Biscuit Co. factory, which now serves as a restaurant, bar, art gallery, and music venue is doubly named ‘Lieu Unique’. It also offers historical tours and a panoramic view of the city.

Countless shops line the sloping streets connecting the major Places of Nantes – Place Graslin, Place Royale, Place du Commerce, and Place Bouffay – with gardens, large grassy roundabouts and fountains, and an old 19th century Passage Pommeraye with worn wooden staircases and angel lampposts around the inner balcony. Bouffay is a great ethnic restaurant district with every type of food imaginable crammed together on narrow streets amidst jewelry shops and lively bars. It is located just around the corner from the Cathédrale Saint-Pierre-et-Saint-Paul.

Looking for an extra dose of inspiration? Slip into Fées Maison (a play on the term ‘fait maison’, or homemade, this instead translates to ‘Fairy House’), with its dozens of potions and elixirs to sample in a magical setting of dragon, gnome, and pumpkin artwork.

Musée Jules Verne
3, rue de l’Hermitage
Tél. 02 40 69 72 52
10 to 12h and 14 to 18h except Tuesday, Sunday morning, and holidays
Ligne 1 : arrêt “Gare Maritime”

Crêperie l’Île Mystérieuse
13, Rue Kervégan (south of Tram 1 / Place du Commerce stop)
44000 Nantes, France
+33 2 40 47 42 83

Fées Maison
3, Rue Pré Nian
just off the main north-south tram line 2 near the Place du Cirque stop.

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