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Paris’s Natural 19th Arrondissement

Jen Westmoreland Bouchard — Fri, 10 Feb 2012 13:59:52 +0000

Located on the right bank of the River Seine, the 19^th arrondissement is known for its interesting natural and man-made geographical features, including the Canal Saint-Denis, the Canal de l’Ourcq, as well two very popular parks, Parc des Buttes Chaumont and Parc de la Villette. The major tourist draw in this area is the Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie’s museum and exhibition center. The Conservatoire de Paris, one of the top music schools in the world, is also located in the 19^tharrondissement.

Metro stops: The most commonly used metro stops in the 19th arrondissement are Porte de la Villette, Buttes Chaumont, Place des Fêtes and Belleville.

What to do in Paris’s 19^th arrondissement

In addition to outdoor activities like strolling around Buttes-Chaumont or drifting down Canal de l’Ourcq, visitors to the 19^th can enjoy cultural activities like visits to the Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie and Cité de la Musique. Traveling with kids? There’s plenty to suit their fancy in the 19^th arrondissement.

Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie (City of Science and Industry), 30 avenue Corentin-Cariou (Metro: Porte de la Villette) www.universcience.fr Since its opening in 1986, Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie has drawn over a hundred million visitors. You will be fascinated by the scientific and technological exhibits. While you’re there, catch a show at the Louis Lumière 3D cinema. If you’re traveling with children, be sure to check out Cité des Enfants, an interactive science museum geared toward children.

Canal de l’Ourcq, 13 Quai de la Loire Bassin de la Villette (Metro: Ourcq) Take a cruise or kayak down this historic channel, constructed in the 19th century to provide drinking water to Parisians.

Buttes-Chaumont, Rue Botzaris (Metro: Buttes-Chaumont). This lush urban oasis is a popular destination for locals and tourists alike. From the top of the park’s highest hill, there is a stunning view of the north of Paris. Another highlight is the park’s waterfall, small lake, and “temple” atop a steep cliff.

Cité de la Musique, 221, Avenue Jean-Jaurès (Metro: Porte de Pantin) This unique museum is dedicated to the culture of music. There are plenty of opportunities to learn and listen throughout the visit.

Where to shop in Paris’s 19^th arrondissement

The 19^th arrondissement is known for its excellent and eclectic outdoor markets. They occur on different days of the week, so you can take advantage of them all!

Marché Villette
Between #27-41 Boulevard de la Villette
Wednesday from 7:00 am to 2:30 pm; Saturdays from 7:00 am to 3:00 pm
Metro: Belleville

Marché Jean-Jaurès
Avenue Jean-Jaurès (walkway between Rue Adolphe Mille and #195 Avenue Jean Jaures)
Tuesday and Thursday from 7:00 am to 2:30 pm; Sunday from 7:00 am to 3:00 pm
Metro: Ourcq

Marché Joinville
Place de Joinville
Open Thursday from 7:00 am to 2:30 pm; Sunday from 7:00 am to 3:00 pm
Metro: Crimée

Marché Place des Fêtes
Place des Fêtes
Tuesdays and Fridays from 7:00 am to 2:30 pm; Sundays from 7:00 am to 3:00 pm
Metro: Place des Fêtes

Marché Porte Brunet
Avenue de la Porte Brunet
Wednesday from 7:00 am to 2:30 pm; Saturdays from 7:00 am to 3:00 pm
Metro: Danube

Written by Jen Westmoreland Bouchard for EuropeUpClose.com

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How to Apply for a Russian Visa

Caitlin Dwyer — Thu, 09 Feb 2012 15:15:23 +0000

Before you can even set foot in Russia, you need to get a visa. Applying for a Russian visa is a lengthy and expensive process, and often boggles even the most experienced travelers. But the end result is that you can coast across Siberia, trawl the museums of St. Petersburg, and brave a leap into Baikal’s frigid waters. We have broken down the bureaucracy into several steps in order to explain how to apply for a Russian tourist visa.

Getting Started
Most travelers to Russia will require a tourist visa. For those passing through Russia on their way elsewhere, a transit visa may be sufficient. However, if you plan on lingering and seeing any sights, a tourist visa will give you free rein for up to 30 days. Most travelers require a simple, single-entry visa, which means that once you leave Russia, you cannot return without reapplying.

Before you apply for your visa, you will need to obtain an invitation letter. This is where Russia’s visa process differs slightly from other European countries. An invitation letter, also known as a visa support letter, confirms that the visitor has been “invited” by a home institution to visit Russia.

Most hotels will issue an invitation letter – but many will only issue support for the period during which you stay with them. For an independent traveler, this poses difficulty. You can also apply for a letter through a reputable travel agent. An entire industry has sprung up around the issuance of invitation letters. For a fee, the agency supplies two documents: a tourist confirmation and a tourist voucher. Usually, you just need a clean, clear copy of these documents to include with your visa application. There might be strange information on the documents – like the names of hotels at which you don’t plan to stay. As long as the cities roughly match your itinerary, it shouldn’t matter too much. However, you should check to make sure that the dates on the invitation letter match your intended entry and exit dates to Russia.

Processing an invitation letter can take around a week – or a mere 24 hours if you use an online agent. While you wait for your letter, you can start to prepare in other ways. Get passport photos taken. Make sure your passport has enough blank pages and won’t expire in the next six months; if not, send away for updates immediately. Trans-Siberian Railway travelers planning on going to China should commence that visa process as well.

Putting Together an Application
The Russian government recently instituted an online application system. Fill out the form on the consulate website, then print, sign, and attach one of your passport photos. Once you have the invitation letter in hand, keep it together with your visa application form.

You will also need to write a cover letter explaining your intentions. For most tourists, this can be a short explanation of your itinerary. Be sure to include your dates of arrival and modes of transit. For Trans-Siberian travelers, try to sketch out a rough plan of your trip: which days you plan to take the train, where you will stop and for how long, and where your ultimate destination will be.

Although not common, it is possible that a consulate will want to see copies of your airline tickets or train tickets, confirming your exit from Russia. Be sure to have a copy on hand if asked.

Presenting the Visa Application
You will need the following forms in order to apply for your visa:

Invitation letter (visa support letter)
Application form
Passport with at least two blank pages
A recent passport photo attached to the application form
A cover letter that gives your itinerary, including entry and exit dates
Payment for the processing fee (check or money order)

A Russian visa application must be presented in person. This can be very inconvenient if you don’t happen to live in a city with a Russian consulate. In this case, contact a visa agency. You’ll need to fill out some agency-specific forms and pay a hefty fee – but probably less than a plane ticket. Their agents will present your application and ship you the completed passport. The usual processing time is around 15 days, although the agencies have rush processing available.

There are Russian consulates or embassies in San Francisco, Washington DC, New York City, Seattle, and Houston. Each administrates a certain region of the United States. To find out which consulate applies to your state, visit the Russian Embassy website.

If you apply at the consulate yourself, a long wait and quick interview with the immigration agent should secure you a visa. Simple tourist visas are usually granted within two weeks; the consulate will require you to return to pick up your passport.

When You Travel
A visa is a document that allows you to show up at the border and ask to be let in to Russia. It is not a guarantee of entry. The validity dates on your visa give the time frame during which you can arrive at the border.

The officials at the border who stamp your passport are the ones who actually determine how long you can stay in the country. The border officials will ask you to fill out an immigration card. Make sure that what you write down matches your invitation letter. They may also ask to see your tickets. The exit date given on your immigration card is the date by which you must leave Russia – usually 30 days from the day you enter. You should keep this card in your passport and give it to the border officials when you exit Russia.

When you arrive at your hotel, the front desk will ask for your passport, in order to register your visa. If you don’t plan on staying in a hotel or hostel, you will need to locate an immigration office and register directly.

Costs
Plenty of people make money on the Russian visa process. If you use visa agency services, your total costs will look something like this:

Invitation letter: $50-70
Passport photos: $8-10
FedEx to and from visa agency: $40-50
Agency services: around $50 for regular processing; $100 for rush processing
Consulate application fees: $140 for regular processing; $250 for three-day rush processing

TOTAL: $288 – $480

Invitation Letters
There are many websites and travel agents that specialize in obtaining invitation letters. Here are a few reliable sources:

Way to Russia: www.waytorussia.net
Express to Russia: http://www.expresstorussia.com/
Visa Able: http://www.visaable.com/
Travisa Visa Service: www.travisarussia.com

Visa Agencies
The following agencies can apply for your visa through agents if you do not live near a consulate. All three have partnerships with the Russian Embassy.

Travisa Visa Service: www.travisarussia.com
PVS International: www.pvsinternational.org
CIBT, Inc.: www.cibt.com/russianvisa

Written by Caitlin Dwyer for EuropeUpClose.com

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Beaucaire, France: Village of Artisans, History and Bullfighting

Terri Fogarty — Wed, 08 Feb 2012 16:01:41 +0000

Located in the Gard region in the south of France, Beaucaire is set in the center of a triangle comprised of Avignon, Nimes and Arles. It is distinguished by a medieval castle, winding cobblestone streets and the Rhone-Sete canal that runs right through the center of town. In fact, it might just be the perfect base from which to explore the wonders of the South of France.

When we arrived in Beaucaire, we were greeted by Lina Castro, Manager of the Tourism office in Beaucaire, who was our guide for the day. Luckily, we visited Beaucaire during the Festival de la Banquette in September where the whole town was celebrating the period traditions of the region. We saw men and women in traditional garb, many of whom demonstrated the trades and crafts of bygone times that they still employ today. The town is a haven for artists who create furniture, basketry, leather goods, and musical instruments, all using traditional techniques. We looked into a stained glass painter’s atelier. She creates and restores glass panels using ancestral lead-based techniques. There was an artisanal market, and even an organ grinder with his accompanist.

Walking through the streets of Beaucaire, we were impressed by the architecture that spans the several rebirths of Beaucaire. Lina pointed out that during the Roman times, the city was named Urgenum and was an important stop along the “Via Domitia” connecting Italy to the Spanish counties of the Roman Empire. Then, in the Middle Ages,the city became Belcaire or “Belle Pierre”, meaning beautiful stone. During this era, an impressive fortress was constructed. The 17th and 18th century produced the Festival of Madeleine, which brought important merchants to the area. During the 8 day festival, Beaucaire generated more wealth than the port of Marseille did in an entire year. Beautiful hotels were constructed to house the visiting merchants, which are now used as private homes and apartments. This prosperity also produced prestigious monuments, insuring Beaucaire’s position as a remarkable village of art and history.

But, Beaucaire has a wild side a s well; the “Fé di Biou” or love of bulls, is an absolute passion of every resident of this proud town. During the “courses camarguaises” (bull running), you will not find an empty seat in the arena. At these bull fights, the bull is king. The bulls are revered and never harmed or killed during a French-style bull fight; this sport is actually more dangerous for the matador than the bull. At these spectacles, white-clad “razeteurs” (bull runners) brave the ire of the wild bulls as they attempt to snatch the cockades and tassels attached to the bulls’ horns. Then there is the “encierro”, during which bulls are allowed to run free throughout the town and village streets. Mounted “gardians” herd a group of bulls through the streets, while spectators try to get in on the act.

The wonderful climate of this part of France provides a long growing season for fruits and vegetables; fruit and olive orchards dot the countryside, and the soil offers excellent conditions for viticulture. Three AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) wines are produced in the area: Costières de Nîmes, Clairette de Bellegarde, and Côtes du Rhône. But other wines are also worthy of note: wines of the Pays d’Oc or Pays du Gard, organic wines and the famous vins des Sables (grown in almost pure sand). Tastings for wine, preserves and olive oils are offered throughout the area.

Following a delightful tour of this quaint town, we had a fantastic lunch in a lovely Auberge at the entrance to the city: Auberge de la Amandin. This cozy restaurant was filled to capacity with locals who appreciate the fresh, local produce and seafoods that were served using recipes firmly rooted to the region. It is a family owned business and every guest is treated with warmth and conviviality.

After lunch we visited the nearby Troglodite Abbaye de St. Roman. This Abbaye was built beginning around the 5th century and remained a monastery until 1538 when a castle was built over it. The castle was destroyed in 1850. It is a 20 minute walk uphill from the parking lot to the remains of the Abbaye; from here you will enjoy a fantastic panorama of the lower Rhone valley. In the Abbaye remains, you can see the former cells occupied by the hermits who lived here hundreds of years ago. You will also see the tombs of the hermits; everything is carved from stone.

From the Abbaye, we drove on to the Mas des Tourelles, a modern winery that is located on the site of an old Roman amphora manufacturer. As a nod to its Roman past, they have been working on “experimental archeology” around wine in Roman antiquity. They have reconstituted a Roman vineyard and a cellar to apply the vinification methods used by the Romans. This cellar works every year for one day of “Roman wine-harvest”. Grapes are trampled by the busy feet of the “slaves” team, and pressed by the enormous oak press. After, that it will be vinified in big earthenware jars. Wines are aromatised following different recipes found in the latin texts. Mulsum, Turriculae and Carenum wines are the result of this experiment. it seems like a step back in time to see this experiment in action.

That evening, we had a fantastic dinner at the L’Hotel des Doctrinaires, a gastronomic restaurant/hotel right in the center of town.
6 Quai du Général de Gaulle,
30300 Beaucaire, France
Tel:+33 4 66 59 23 70

If you haven’t already, be sure to put Beaucaire on your must-see list. I have just scratched the surface of the many things to do and see in this historic medieval town and its surroundings. And, if you are wondering where we stayed while on our sojourn in Provence and the Gard, I’ll be posting my favorite hotels and B&Bs in the south of France soon.

Written by Terri Fogarty, photos by Bill Fogarty for EuropeUpClose.com

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How to Travel by Train Through France

Guest Contributor — Tue, 07 Feb 2012 15:38:29 +0000

Before you go anywhere in France by train, you need to buy your train tickets! This can be done in a couple ways. First, there is the train station itself. With rare exceptions, you can purchase a train ticket from/to anywhere in France in any train station.

Larger cities in France also have storefront offices called SNCF Boutiques. Here, you can sit down across a desk from someone and discuss your trip, if you wish, or simply purchase your ticket in a more relaxed environment. Any travel agency can also issue tickets, making it easy if you’re in a smaller town.

If you’re nervous about the language barrier, you may want to go to the SNCF website to look up times and prices. Although there is an English language option on the website, it takes you to another site entirely, which can be confusing and not as comprehensive. But if you’ve ever filled out an Internet form before, you can handle the French site. Choose “Horaires” if you just want to know the times, or “Reservez” for times and prices. I recommend “Reservez,” as trains in France tend to be priced differently depending on the time of day you’re traveling – so taking a later or earlier train can save you a surprising amount of money.

When it comes to paying for your ticket, you’re going to need to do so in cash. For some reason, their card machines (both at the counter and the stand-alone ticketing machines) only take cards issued in France, which have a special chip in them. This is another good reason to know the prices, so you’re not running around looking for an ATM.

Note: Be aware that Italy has recently made it extremely hard to purchase tickets for their trains in France, and each leg comes with a 5-euro surcharge. So if you’re crossing the border, it may be best to purchase those Italian train tickets once you’re in Italy.

In France, you have to validate your ticket at the start of your trip. If you have more than one destination on that ticket – for example, a ticket from Montpellier to Nice will have a stop in Marseille you only need to validate it once. But if you don’t do it at all, you could face a fine (and the disapproving sigh of the conductor).

Ticket validating machines are about waist-high, bright yellow, and are at the beginning of every train track entrance. Just stick your ticket in, wait for the thunk/beep and take it back out. If it doesn’t stamp it, turn your ticket around. Then you’re good to go!

Oh! And one last thing, which is rare but did happen to me recently. Some train routes are replaced by a bus. If this is the case with your train, it will be written on your ticket (albeit in French), and on the departure board/screen there will be a note as well. Sounds easy, right? Well, not unless you know that the word for these replacement buses is “Autocar.” Sometimes it will just say, “Car.” So if you see that on your ticket or at the station, head outside and find the bus depot!

Written by Christine Cantera for EuropeUpClose.com

Christine Cantera writes the WhyGo France Travel Guide for the BootsnAll Travel Network. She’s lives in Montpellier and has a lot to say about eating and drinking in France.

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Where to Stay in Berlin: Editor’s Picks

Mattie Bamman — Mon, 06 Feb 2012 13:36:54 +0000

The exuberant city of Berlin provides a huge number of ‘where to stay’ options; and we’ve put together a list of the best hotels for every price-point. These hotel recommendations also provide information on how close the hotels are to the major sights, a description of the neighborhoods in which the hotels are located, and descriptions of the rooms and their amenities.

5-Star Hotels in Berlin

The Regent Berlin
Located in the central Mitte neighborhood, this luxurious hotel is just a short walk from many of Berlin’s most important sights, including the Brandenburg Gate and the Berlin State Opera. Rooms are spacious and come with complimentary WiFi. The hotel is designed to provide you with everything you may need, including an in-house car rental agency, laundry facilities, and spa. Airport transfers are also available. The hotel is home to Berlin’s only 2-starred Michelin gourmet restaurant, the Fischers Fritz Restaurant.
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Swissotel
This hotel, located in the center of the Charlottenburg neighborhood in west Berlin, is surrounded by great restaurant and shopping options, and it’s also near the Berlin Zoo. The hotel is only three stops from Berlin’s main train station, and a subway stop is nearby. All rooms come with a Nespresso machine, mini bar, WiFi (at a charge), ironing board, and electronic safe. Hotel facilities include a fitness center, sauna, and Restaurant 44, which serves breakfast and dinner with views of the bustling Kurfürstendamm Avenue. The staff excels at providing professional and friendly service.
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4-Star Hotels in Berlin

Melia Berlin
If you demand a lot and are looking for a good value, this hotel is one of the best. Tastefully decorated, this hotel exudes a high-end, chic atmosphere. For example, all guests are provided with a pillow menu, which includes several options, free of charge. The rooms are large and come with a safe, a flat screen TV, ironing board, WiFi (at a charge), and sound-proof windows. This hotel could not be in a better location; it is in the Mitte neighborhood, near the Unter den Linden shopping center, major sights, and several subway stops. There are two onsite restaurants.
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Mercure Hotel & Residenz Berlin Checkpoint Charlie
Just a couple blocks from the Checkpoint Charlie museum, this hotel is located on a quiet street in the Mitte neighborhood. The 135 rooms have WiFi (at a charge) and air conditioning. There’s a comfortable onsite lounge that serves an array of cocktails; and a well outfitted fitness center and sauna. Breakfast is expensive but worth it. Several bakeries are also nearby. Good deals are provided if traveling with children under the age of 12.
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Adagio Berlin Kurfurstendamm
This apartment hotel is an exceptionally good value, and all 135 apartments are decked out with kitchens and comfortable living rooms. Located in a residential part of the Charlottenburg neighborhood, it is a little off the beaten track if you are focused on seeing the sights. Kurfurstendamm Avenue, with loads of shopping and several good restaurants, is just one block away. The nearest subway stop is a 10-minute walk, and it takes roughly 10 minutes to get to Berlin’s most important sights by subway. Rooms are ultra-modern, and there’s a fitness facility onsite. Free Wifi is offered in the lobby and adjacent areas on the ground floor. Internet is provided in the rooms but you must bring your own Ethernet cable.
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3-Star Hotels in Berlin

The Circus Hotel & Hostel
This environmentally friendly hotel has it all: apartments, hotel rooms, and hostel dorms. The apartments are very spacious for the price and include kitchens, free WiFi, and flat screen TVs. The hotel rooms are functional and clean, if a little small. Hostel guests are provided with a number of no-cost amenities, such as beer on Mondays, WiFi, and several unique walking tours of the city (guests staying in the apartments or hotel can tap into these freebies too). Located in the Mitte neighborhood, it is surrounded by restaurants and boutiques; it is also near to a subway stop.
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Best Western Hotel City Ost
Just east of the central Mitte neighborhood, this hotel resides in the fashionable Friedrichshain neighborhood, home to the expansive Friedrichshain park. The rooms are functional and clean, but the hotel’s WiFi internet service is spotty in some. A subway stop is located just outside of the hotel and it is less than ten minutes to the main sights. Stay here for the cheap rates and friendly service. This hotel is particularly perfect if you want to explore the Friedrichshain neighborhood’s numerous shops, restaurants, cafes, and bars. In-house breakfast is a bit expensive considering that there are many fine bakeries nearby.
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Hampton by Hilton Berlin City West
Located in the ritzy heart of the Charlottenburg neighborhood, this convenient hotel provides free WiFi in every room and all prices include breakfast. The staff is friendly and conscientious. Rooms do not have safes or mini bars. If you’re a light sleeper, request a room away from the train tracks.
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Budget Hotels in Berlin

Grand Hostel Berlin
This hostel features late 19^th century design and it is located in one of Berlin’s most historically interesting neighborhoods: You’ll feel like you stepped into old Berlin. The rooms are clean, modern, and functional, and come with personal lockers. Private rooms are available, but most accomodations are dorm-style. The hostel does not cram travelers together, and the maximum number of people to one room is six. Located in the Kreuzberg neighborhood in southeast Berlin, the hotel is a bit far from the sights, so using public transportation is a necessity.
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A&O Berlin Hauptbahnhof
This hostel has 300 rooms and 800 beds, and it’s located just a quarter mile from Berlin’s main train station. Head east and you’ll immediately enter the Alexanderplatz neighborhood; head west and find Kurfurstendamm Avenue. WiFi is offered in the lobby for a charge. This hostel is very popular, which makes it a great place to stay if you’re looking to meet others.
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Written by Mattie Bamman for EuropeUpClose.com

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Up Close Picture of the Week: Ikaria, Greece

Mattie Bamman — Sat, 04 Feb 2012 14:57:41 +0000

The Greek Island of Ikaria (Icaria) is the perfect destination for travelers who like the outdoor life: those who want to surf, and camp. Ikaria is named after Icarus, who purportedly fell from the sky and landed in the nearby sea. Ikaria is part of the Greece’s eastern Aegean island group and is located in the center of the Archipelago, with Samos to the east, Mykonos to the west, Patmos to the south and Chios to the north. It is just one of the many islands covered in Mattie’s Guide to Greece’s Most Overlooked Islands.

Written by Mattie Bamman for EuropeUpClose.com

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Paris’s Green 17th Arrondissement

Jen Westmoreland Bouchard — Fri, 03 Feb 2012 14:05:52 +0000

Located on the right bank of the River Seine, the relatively quiet 17th arrondissement is comprised mostly of office and residential areas, though some interesting shops and restaurants can be found around avenue de Clichy. Le Palais de Congrès, a large convention center and concert venue, is located in the 17th arrondissement.

Metro stops: The most commonly used metro stops in the 17th arrondissement are Porte de Clichy, Guy Môquet, Brochant, and Villiers.

What to do in Paris’s 17th Arrondissement

There are plenty of parks and green spaces in which to take a stroll in the 17th. After you’ve gotten some fresh air, head to the Jean-Jacques Henner Museum to see world-class art.

Parc Clichy-Batignolles – Martin Luther King
The newest green space in the 17^th arrondissement is Parc Clichy-Batignolles – Martin Luther King . This unique park will eventually cover 10.8 hectares when it is completed (most likely in 2015). However, quite a bit of the park is already open to the public. It is located in the Batignolles and Épinettes districts. State-of-the-art recreational facilities include a large skate park, basketball courts and children’s park.
Metro: Brochant

Cité des Fleurs
Cité des Fleurs is a small, extremely charming village in the Épinettes district. The area dates back to 1847, and features small houses and gardens alongside narrow streets. It’s a lovely place to take a walk on a sunny afternoon.
Metro: Brochant

Square des Épinettes
Square des Épinettes is a public garden located in the Épinettes district. Sculptures of Maria Deraismes, a feminist, and Jean LeClaire, an entrepreneur, honor two famous residents of Épinettes.
Metro: Brochant

Musée national Jean-Jacques Henner
Located in a 19^th century mansion, the Musée national Jean-Jacques Henner is dedicated to the works of the Alsatian painter Jean-Jacques Henner (1829-1905). The collection includes over 1,000 sketches, paintings, documents, and objects that belonged to Henner. Open everyday from 10am to 12pm and from 2pm to 5pm, closed on Mondays.
43 avenue de Villiers
Métro: Malesherbes

Where to shop in Paris’s 17th Arrondissement

The area surrounding Avenue Clichy is one of the best shopping areas in Paris. There are also a variety of interesting shops located throughout the 17th arrondissement. Some of the most notable include:

Guerrisol
Guerrisol is a popular friperie (second-hand shop) known for its huge selection and excellent prices. So, whether you’re on the hunt for an army jacket or a sequined evening gown, you’re sure to find something there to suit your fancy. Hours: Monday to Saturday, 10am – 7:30pm
19, 29 & 31 avenue de Clichy
Metro: Place-de-Clichy

Meilleurs Vins Bios
A well-known organic wine shop, Meilleurs Vins Bio is a great place to shop for wine in all price points. Sommeliers are always on hand to help you make the right decision for you. Free tastings on Thursdays from 7-9pm give budding oenophiles a chance to taste some of the best organic wines from France and beyond (Chili, Spain, Italy, etc.).
183 rue Legendre
Metro: Guy Môquet

Marché des Batignolles
A popular covered market, Marché des Batignolles is the place to go for organic produce, artisanal breads, fresh fish and high-quality meat. Hours: Tue-Sat 8:30am-1:30pm, 4pm-7:30pm
Rue Lemercier at Rue des Moines
Metro: Place de Clichy

Written by Jen Westmoreland Bouchard for EuropeUpClose.com

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Eating the Adriatic – The Last Stop: Traditional Foods of Puglia, Southern Italy

Mattie Bamman — Thu, 02 Feb 2012 15:51:15 +0000

Even though Italy has one of the highest obesity rates in Europe, the Mediterranean diet is alive and well in the southern Italian region of Puglia. Here traditional foods include fresh seafood, eggless pasta, and plenty of hearty, often foraged vegetables, such as chicory and wild artichokes.

For the first time in all my trip, the air had the hard edge of fall. My girlfriend and I met up with a couple ex-Brits—friends who now call Puglia home—and went to the town of Ceglie Messapica to check out a food festival dedicated to wine and chestnuts. The whitewashed town was eerily quiet and dark, and I was surprised by how difficult it was to find the festival. Then the soft breeze of an accordion whirled through the alleyways, calling us to a small piazza full of people celebrating traditional seasonal foods.

For me, Puglia and these small festivals, known as sagra, are inseparable. Historically impoverished, Puglia developed luxuries in edible form, and it’s amazing how sweet a chestnut or bell pepper can taste when grown in Puglia’s soil. Ceglie Messapica is one of Puglia’s leading gastronomic cities thanks to Al Fornello da Ricci, the only restaurant in Puglia to receive a Michelin star. However, it is very difficult to get a bad meal in Puglia, and good traditional restaurants abound.

I had my first Pugliese meal at Nonna Tetti restaurant in the city of Lecce. Lecce is one of Puglia’s most beautiful cities thanks to imaginative, Baroque architecture and a handful of impressive Roman ruins. It is also a great place to eat, and Nonna Tetti provided us with excellent traditional fare for nearly dirt-cheap prices. We began with an antipasto della casa. One of Puglia’s specialities, antipasto are usually comprised of five or six small plates. We were served broccoli rabe sautéed in olive oil, cauliflower casserole, eggplant stewed in tomato sauce, beans cooked in a pancetta broth, and a barley salad—the hearty, flavorful food of Puglia. We followed the antipasto with orecchiette pasta with tomato sauce and cavatelli pasta with seafood broth and mussels.

The table wine was rich, dark, and juicy. Puglia’s table wine is excellent because the region gets so much sun each year, resulting in huge grape yields, which produces large amounts of fresh bulk wine are produced. A liter carafe of house wine can cost as little as five euros. Puglia predominantly creates red wines with the negroamaro, primitivo, nero di troia, and aglianico grapes.

After Lecce, I wanted to hit the Adriatic coast, so we visited the town of Polignano a Mare, where the houses are built right into the walls of the cliffs. Arriving around lunch, we found a café that advertised a glass of novello, or new, wine with a panzerotti for 3.50 euros. A panzerotti is one of Puglia’s best street foods. Fresh dough is wrapped around mozzarella cheese with a little sauce then deep-fried. Sometimes called calzone fritte, or deep fried calzones, panzerotti are a must when visiting Puglia.

On the third day in Puglia, I visited Valle Dell’Asso winery, which is located just south of Lecce. Puglia is a great place for wine tasting because most of the tastings are free and the wines, at least in my mind, are very amicable, with juicy, dark fruit flavors and a silky mouthfeel. If you’re a DIY wine taster, check out my article on how to plan a wine tasting trip in Puglia.

Valle Dell’Asso winery specializes in negroamaro and primitivo wines, but I really love their Galatina Bianco, made of 100% chardonnay. Winemaker Elio Minoia explained that good wine begins with good grapes, and he uses biodynamic practices to keep his grapevines healthy. The result is vibrant wines made with perfectly mature fruit, and I got a lot of tropical fruit scents and flavors from the 2010 Galatina Bianco.

As the end of my trip approached, the many dishes and bottles of wine that I’d had seemed to haunt me. I wasn’t dying, but all of my meals flashed before my eyes. Each was unique and unrepeatable, and none of these dishes would taste the same recreated abroad. It’s like Dolores Racic said, all the way back in Dubrovnik. “It’s better to drink our wine here in Croatia, that way you can have all of the components that made the wine what it is—the sun, the wind, the sea—around you.” I thought this trip might take the edge off, but seems to have just whetted my appetite.

Lecce Restaurant Recommendation

Nonna Tetti – $$
This restaurant always surprises me with new antipasti, and the pastas are as authentic as they come. The prices are very reasonable: a five-plate antipasto costs 10€ and most pastas are 6-8 €. The atmosphere matches the food, and the ceilings are the typical vaulted ceilings made of Leccese stone that one would find in local homes.
Piazzetta Regina Maria, 17

Wine Tasting Recommendation near Lecce

Valle Dell’Asso
This winery makes budget friendly white, rosé, red, and dessert wines, many of which are surprisingly elegant for the price. My favorites included the Galatina Bianco, Galatina Rosato, “Terra S. Giovanni” Primitivo, and the “Piromafo” Negroamaro. Tasting Fee: Complimentary; 5€ with traditional snacks
Via Guidano, 18, Galatina

Written by Mattie Bamman for EuropeUpClose.com

Editor’s Note: This concludes the ‘Eating the Adriatic’ series of thirteen articles written by the intrepid Mattie Bamman. If you, our readers, have not had the opportunity to read all of Mattie’s articles, we invite you to do a website search for “Eating the Adriatic”.

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Cool Winter Gardens of Wales

Carrie Uffindell — Wed, 01 Feb 2012 14:28:30 +0000

During our last trip to Wales, my family and I bundled up to explore four cool winter gardens: Chirk Castle, Penrhyn Castle, the National Botanic Garden of Wales, and Aberglasney House and Gardens. These gardens are a great way for travelers of all ages to enjoy the stark beauty of the winter season.

Chirk Castle
Seated on a strategic hilltop seven miles southeast of Llangollen, near the English border, Chirk Castle is over 700 years old. It has been beautifully renovated over the centuries and is one of the only medieval castles in Wales that is still lived in to this day.

Originally landscaped in the 18^th century by William Emes, Chirk Castle’s grounds now include five acres of award-winning gardens and seven acres of woodlands. We walk around the frost-tipped gardens, admiring the impressive 19^th century yew topiary as well as bright clusters of snowdrops.

The castle and its grounds are maintained by the National Trust. Note: the gardens usually close in mid-December and open up again in February. Check the National Trust’s website for current events, hours, and admission fees.

Penrhyn Castle
About two miles east of Bangor between the mountains of Snowdonia and the Menai Staits lays Penrhyn Castle. Designed in the 19^th century by Thomas Hopper, the castle is surrounded by 60 acres of grounds, including a lovely Victorian Walled Garden, rolling lawns, wooded paths, and even a picturesque chapel. On a cold but clear afternoon we enjoy a lengthy stroll around Penrhyn’s grounds, marveling at the mountain views while spotting blooming witch-hazel, magnolias, and snowdrops. Afterwards we pop into the tea room for hot beverages.

Penrhyn Castle and its grounds are maintained by the National Trust. Note: the gardens usually close in mid-December and open up again in February. Check the National Trust’s website for current events, hours, and admission fees.

National Botanic Garden of Wales
Opened in May 2000 on the grounds of a former aristocratic estate eight miles east of Carmarthen, the sprawling National Botanic Garden of Wales is home to hundreds of acres of various plant habitats, gardens, lakes, and the largest single-span glasshouse in the world.

We arrive in the morning and enter through the Gatehouse, walking down the Broadwalk dotted with snowdrops, hellebores, witch-hazels, and various winter shrubs in bloom. After quick stops to admire the Japanese Garden and the Double Walled Garden, we head to the must-see Great Glasshouse, where rare and endangered plants from Mediterranean climates flourish throughout winter.

The National Botanic Garden of Wales is open daily, year round. Check their website for current events, hours, and admission fees.

Aberglasney House and Gardens
Aberglasney is another great winter garden and lies only six or seven miles from the National Botanic Garden, between Carmarthen and Llandeilo. Little is known about the original mansion and gardens, but one of the earliest references is in a 15^th century ode.

We are absolutely enchanted by Aberglasney’s grounds. The frosty ground crunches beneath our feet as we explore the formal 17^th century cloister garden and the 250-year-old yew tunnel. Afterwards we duck inside the award-winning Ninfarium, an Italian-inspired garden located in a heated atrium converted from several of the mansion’s derelict rooms, warming up as we enjoy the pink orchids and bright orange calathea crocata.

Aberglasney House and Gardens are open daily, year round. Check their website for current events, hours, and admission fees.

If you go:

Transportation to Wales: For North Wales, Manchester International Airport is closest, about an hour drive from the English-Welsh border. For South Wales, Cardiff International Airport is the most convenient.

Train/Bus: Trains run from Manchester and Cardiff to stations in Chirk, Bangor, and Carmarthen. Check current times and fares at the National Rail.

Accommodations
If you decide to stay in Chirk, The Hand Hotel, located near the railway station, has moderately priced rooms and a relaxed atmosphere. In Bangor, you can enjoy lovely views of the Menai Straights and Snowdonia mountains in one of the Eryl Mor Hotel’s comfortable en-suite bedrooms. If you’re looking for something more rustic where you can tuck into a delicious Welsh breakfast, try the award-winning B&B Allt y Golua Farmhouse, a ten minute drive from both the National Botanic Gardens and Aberglasney House. If not, the 4-star Cawdor Hotel in Llandeilo is a stylish inn with bright rooms and a good restaurant.

Eateries
If you’re looking for a bite to eat or a hot beverage to warm you up, the tea-rooms at Chirk and Penrhyn Castles serve fresh, locally-sourced foods. At the National Botanic Garden, both the Gatehouse Café and Seasons Restaurant offers local and organic goodies. Aberglasney House’s Gardeners’ Café is located near a tranquil pool, also serves local and seasonal foods.

Written by Carrie Uffindell for EuropeUpClose.com

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More Travel Stuff We Love

Terri Fogarty — Tue, 31 Jan 2012 17:14:20 +0000

We keep finding more great travel gear, gadgets and ideas that we want to share with our traveling readers. From backpacks, to travel gadgets, to travel websites; we think you’ll enjoy our latest rundown of …’travel stuff we love.’

Travel Stuff We Love

The Airporter Backpack

The folks at Guerrilla Packs sent us their Airporter backpack to try out; and we did. We were thoroughly impressed with this pack that retails for $129. As a matter of fact their motto is “Great adventure products don’t have to cost $200!” So, all of their quality products are reasonably priced. Overall this is a exceptionally well made and affordable travel backpack with features galore. It’s the perfect size. Big enough to fit the things you need and small enough to stow as a carry on. It’s also very comfortable with adjustable straps and waist support.

The pack has tons of features:

- A detachable day-pack with plenty of compartments for valuables.

- A laptop case that securely attaches to the main interior compartment

- 2 water bottle compartments

- The pack is waterproof with a rain-fly

- Two small padded compartments in the interior of the pack, perfect for a camera.

The design is more sporty than subtle. It’s perfect for those trips that require trekking and less appropriate for urban trips in which there’s easy access to cabs and hotels. In those cases the adjustment straps and waist support belt are unnecessary. And even though it’s possible to conceal the adjustment straps and waist support belt in a zippered compartment, there’s no true way to use it as a duffle bag. (Despite a side handle there isn’t a way to attach a shoulder strap.) If you need a lightweight, well made, highly functional bag at an affordable price this might just be the pack for you.

Guerrilla Packs Airporter Travel Backpack Duffel Hybrid with Detachable Daypack (Red, 50-Liter + 10-Liter)

The Innergie Travel Charging Kit

This kit works well with iPads, iPhones, Smartphones, iPods, MP3 players, eBooks, GPS units and more. The Innergie Travel Kit turns any wall outlet into two USB Power points so you can charge and sync two of your devices simultaneously. The kit also includes a car dual charger; how handy is that?

Travel Clothes Care
The One-Care company (the folks who bring you Tide and Downey) sent us a great little travel kit to review. The kit included some highly useful little items that could make your travels easier. For instance, the Dryel on-the-go stain remover is just the ticket for those spill and stain events. With limited wardrobe changes on a trip, it is great to have a handy stain-remover. I wish I’d have had it when I dripped a gelato down the front of my dress last summer in Nice. I also tried out their travel-size Bounce lint roller, and a Downey wrinkle release spray. This spray removes wrinkles from clothes that have been jam-packed in your suitcase. I really liked the Tide travel laundry bag. What a concept! This bag will absorb odors, and resist bacteria growth on the dirty clothes you store. All these items comply with TSA carry-on requirements.

Travel Websites We Love

Here are a few websites we like and think that you may enjoy as well.

BackPackMojo

Backpackmojo is a clever website that lets you build your own travel guide and then lets you publish it. The process is pretty user friendly, and you’ll be shepherded through the all the steps in developing your guide. Once you have built your guide, you can even sell copies of your little masterpiece. To help plan your next trip, you can browse itineraries developed by other travelers. Here is a little video that tells you more about the site.

Spotted by Locals
This website, developed by a couple in Amsterdam, Sanne and Bart van Poll, connects travelers with locals who really know the city they write about. These locals write travel tips for their city that help travelers immerse themselves in the culture of that city. When visitors experience cities the local way, they learn about the culture and customs of the inhabitants. The van Polls are convinced that a better understanding of different cultures will make the world a better place, and we agree.

Take a look at Spotted by Locals and see what you think.

Written by Terri Fogarty for EuropeUpClose.com

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