EuropeUpClose.com

Paris’s Green 17th Arrondissement

Jen Westmoreland Bouchard — Fri, 03 Feb 2012 14:05:52 +0000

Located on the right bank of the River Seine, the relatively quiet 17th arrondissement is comprised mostly of office and residential areas, though some interesting shops and restaurants can be found around avenue de Clichy. Le Palais de Congrès, a large convention center and concert venue, is located in the 17th arrondissement.

Metro stops: The most commonly used metro stops in the 17th arrondissement are Porte de Clichy, Guy Môquet, Brochant, and Villiers.

What to do in Paris’s 17th Arrondissement

There are plenty of parks and green spaces in which to take a stroll in the 17th. After you’ve gotten some fresh air, head to the Jean-Jacques Henner Museum to see world-class art.

Parc Clichy-Batignolles – Martin Luther King
The newest green space in the 17^th arrondissement is Parc Clichy-Batignolles – Martin Luther King . This unique park will eventually cover 10.8 hectares when it is completed (most likely in 2015). However, quite a bit of the park is already open to the public. It is located in the Batignolles and Épinettes districts. State-of-the-art recreational facilities include a large skate park, basketball courts and children’s park.
Metro: Brochant

Cité des Fleurs
Cité des Fleurs is a small, extremely charming village in the Épinettes district. The area dates back to 1847, and features small houses and gardens alongside narrow streets. It’s a lovely place to take a walk on a sunny afternoon.
Metro: Brochant

Square des Épinettes
Square des Épinettes is a public garden located in the Épinettes district. Sculptures of Maria Deraismes, a feminist, and Jean LeClaire, an entrepreneur, honor two famous residents of Épinettes.
Metro: Brochant

Musée national Jean-Jacques Henner
Located in a 19^th century mansion, the Musée national Jean-Jacques Henner is dedicated to the works of the Alsatian painter Jean-Jacques Henner (1829-1905). The collection includes over 1,000 sketches, paintings, documents, and objects that belonged to Henner. Open everyday from 10am to 12pm and from 2pm to 5pm, closed on Mondays.
43 avenue de Villiers
Métro: Malesherbes

Where to shop in Paris’s 17th Arrondissement

The area surrounding Avenue Clichy is one of the best shopping areas in Paris. There are also a variety of interesting shops located throughout the 17th arrondissement. Some of the most notable include:

Guerrisol
Guerrisol is a popular friperie (second-hand shop) known for its huge selection and excellent prices. So, whether you’re on the hunt for an army jacket or a sequined evening gown, you’re sure to find something there to suit your fancy. Hours: Monday to Saturday, 10am – 7:30pm
19, 29 & 31 avenue de Clichy
Metro: Place-de-Clichy

Meilleurs Vins Bios
A well-known organic wine shop, Meilleurs Vins Bio is a great place to shop for wine in all price points. Sommeliers are always on hand to help you make the right decision for you. Free tastings on Thursdays from 7-9pm give budding oenophiles a chance to taste some of the best organic wines from France and beyond (Chili, Spain, Italy, etc.).
183 rue Legendre
Metro: Guy Môquet

Marché des Batignolles
A popular covered market, Marché des Batignolles is the place to go for organic produce, artisanal breads, fresh fish and high-quality meat. Hours: Tue-Sat 8:30am-1:30pm, 4pm-7:30pm
Rue Lemercier at Rue des Moines
Metro: Place de Clichy

Written by Jen Westmoreland Bouchard for EuropeUpClose.com

Related posts:

Eating the Adriatic – The Last Stop: Traditional Foods of Puglia, Southern Italy

Mattie Bamman — Thu, 02 Feb 2012 15:51:15 +0000

Even though Italy has one of the highest obesity rates in Europe, the Mediterranean diet is alive and well in the southern Italian region of Puglia. Here traditional foods include fresh seafood, eggless pasta, and plenty of hearty, often foraged vegetables, such as chicory and wild artichokes.

For the first time in all my trip, the air had the hard edge of fall. My girlfriend and I met up with a couple ex-Brits—friends who now call Puglia home—and went to the town of Ceglie Messapica to check out a food festival dedicated to wine and chestnuts. The whitewashed town was eerily quiet and dark, and I was surprised by how difficult it was to find the festival. Then the soft breeze of an accordion whirled through the alleyways, calling us to a small piazza full of people celebrating traditional seasonal foods.

For me, Puglia and these small festivals, known as sagra, are inseparable. Historically impoverished, Puglia developed luxuries in edible form, and it’s amazing how sweet a chestnut or bell pepper can taste when grown in Puglia’s soil. Ceglie Messapica is one of Puglia’s leading gastronomic cities thanks to Al Fornello da Ricci, the only restaurant in Puglia to receive a Michelin star. However, it is very difficult to get a bad meal in Puglia, and good traditional restaurants abound.

I had my first Pugliese meal at Nonna Tetti restaurant in the city of Lecce. Lecce is one of Puglia’s most beautiful cities thanks to imaginative, Baroque architecture and a handful of impressive Roman ruins. It is also a great place to eat, and Nonna Tetti provided us with excellent traditional fare for nearly dirt-cheap prices. We began with an antipasto della casa. One of Puglia’s specialities, antipasto are usually comprised of five or six small plates. We were served broccoli rabe sautéed in olive oil, cauliflower casserole, eggplant stewed in tomato sauce, beans cooked in a pancetta broth, and a barley salad—the hearty, flavorful food of Puglia. We followed the antipasto with orecchiette pasta with tomato sauce and cavatelli pasta with seafood broth and mussels.

The table wine was rich, dark, and juicy. Puglia’s table wine is excellent because the region gets so much sun each year, resulting in huge grape yields, which produces large amounts of fresh bulk wine are produced. A liter carafe of house wine can cost as little as five euros. Puglia predominantly creates red wines with the negroamaro, primitivo, nero di troia, and aglianico grapes.

After Lecce, I wanted to hit the Adriatic coast, so we visited the town of Polignano a Mare, where the houses are built right into the walls of the cliffs. Arriving around lunch, we found a café that advertised a glass of novello, or new, wine with a panzerotti for 3.50 euros. A panzerotti is one of Puglia’s best street foods. Fresh dough is wrapped around mozzarella cheese with a little sauce then deep-fried. Sometimes called calzone fritte, or deep fried calzones, panzerotti are a must when visiting Puglia.

On the third day in Puglia, I visited Valle Dell’Asso winery, which is located just south of Lecce. Puglia is a great place for wine tasting because most of the tastings are free and the wines, at least in my mind, are very amicable, with juicy, dark fruit flavors and a silky mouthfeel. If you’re a DIY wine taster, check out my article on how to plan a wine tasting trip in Puglia.

Valle Dell’Asso winery specializes in negroamaro and primitivo wines, but I really love their Galatina Bianco, made of 100% chardonnay. Winemaker Elio Minoia explained that good wine begins with good grapes, and he uses biodynamic practices to keep his grapevines healthy. The result is vibrant wines made with perfectly mature fruit, and I got a lot of tropical fruit scents and flavors from the 2010 Galatina Bianco.

As the end of my trip approached, the many dishes and bottles of wine that I’d had seemed to haunt me. I wasn’t dying, but all of my meals flashed before my eyes. Each was unique and unrepeatable, and none of these dishes would taste the same recreated abroad. It’s like Dolores Racic said, all the way back in Dubrovnik. “It’s better to drink our wine here in Croatia, that way you can have all of the components that made the wine what it is—the sun, the wind, the sea—around you.” I thought this trip might take the edge off, but seems to have just whetted my appetite.

Lecce Restaurant Recommendation

Nonna Tetti – $$
This restaurant always surprises me with new antipasti, and the pastas are as authentic as they come. The prices are very reasonable: a five-plate antipasto costs 10€ and most pastas are 6-8 €. The atmosphere matches the food, and the ceilings are the typical vaulted ceilings made of Leccese stone that one would find in local homes.
Piazzetta Regina Maria, 17

Wine Tasting Recommendation near Lecce

Valle Dell’Asso
This winery makes budget friendly white, rosé, red, and dessert wines, many of which are surprisingly elegant for the price. My favorites included the Galatina Bianco, Galatina Rosato, “Terra S. Giovanni” Primitivo, and the “Piromafo” Negroamaro. Tasting Fee: Complimentary; 5€ with traditional snacks
Via Guidano, 18, Galatina

Written by Mattie Bamman for EuropeUpClose.com

Editor’s Note: This concludes the ‘Eating the Adriatic’ series of thirteen articles written by the intrepid Mattie Bamman. If you, our readers, have not had the opportunity to read all of Mattie’s articles, we invite you to do a website search for “Eating the Adriatic”.

Related posts:

Cool Winter Gardens of Wales

Carrie Uffindell — Wed, 01 Feb 2012 14:28:30 +0000

During our last trip to Wales, my family and I bundled up to explore four cool winter gardens: Chirk Castle, Penrhyn Castle, the National Botanic Garden of Wales, and Aberglasney House and Gardens. These gardens are a great way for travelers of all ages to enjoy the stark beauty of the winter season.

Chirk Castle
Seated on a strategic hilltop seven miles southeast of Llangollen, near the English border, Chirk Castle is over 700 years old. It has been beautifully renovated over the centuries and is one of the only medieval castles in Wales that is still lived in to this day.

Originally landscaped in the 18^th century by William Emes, Chirk Castle’s grounds now include five acres of award-winning gardens and seven acres of woodlands. We walk around the frost-tipped gardens, admiring the impressive 19^th century yew topiary as well as bright clusters of snowdrops.

The castle and its grounds are maintained by the National Trust. Note: the gardens usually close in mid-December and open up again in February. Check the National Trust’s website for current events, hours, and admission fees.

Penrhyn Castle
About two miles east of Bangor between the mountains of Snowdonia and the Menai Staits lays Penrhyn Castle. Designed in the 19^th century by Thomas Hopper, the castle is surrounded by 60 acres of grounds, including a lovely Victorian Walled Garden, rolling lawns, wooded paths, and even a picturesque chapel. On a cold but clear afternoon we enjoy a lengthy stroll around Penrhyn’s grounds, marveling at the mountain views while spotting blooming witch-hazel, magnolias, and snowdrops. Afterwards we pop into the tea room for hot beverages.

Penrhyn Castle and its grounds are maintained by the National Trust. Note: the gardens usually close in mid-December and open up again in February. Check the National Trust’s website for current events, hours, and admission fees.

National Botanic Garden of Wales
Opened in May 2000 on the grounds of a former aristocratic estate eight miles east of Carmarthen, the sprawling National Botanic Garden of Wales is home to hundreds of acres of various plant habitats, gardens, lakes, and the largest single-span glasshouse in the world.

We arrive in the morning and enter through the Gatehouse, walking down the Broadwalk dotted with snowdrops, hellebores, witch-hazels, and various winter shrubs in bloom. After quick stops to admire the Japanese Garden and the Double Walled Garden, we head to the must-see Great Glasshouse, where rare and endangered plants from Mediterranean climates flourish throughout winter.

The National Botanic Garden of Wales is open daily, year round. Check their website for current events, hours, and admission fees.

Aberglasney House and Gardens
Aberglasney is another great winter garden and lies only six or seven miles from the National Botanic Garden, between Carmarthen and Llandeilo. Little is known about the original mansion and gardens, but one of the earliest references is in a 15^th century ode.

We are absolutely enchanted by Aberglasney’s grounds. The frosty ground crunches beneath our feet as we explore the formal 17^th century cloister garden and the 250-year-old yew tunnel. Afterwards we duck inside the award-winning Ninfarium, an Italian-inspired garden located in a heated atrium converted from several of the mansion’s derelict rooms, warming up as we enjoy the pink orchids and bright orange calathea crocata.

Aberglasney House and Gardens are open daily, year round. Check their website for current events, hours, and admission fees.

If you go:

Transportation to Wales: For North Wales, Manchester International Airport is closest, about an hour drive from the English-Welsh border. For South Wales, Cardiff International Airport is the most convenient.

Train/Bus: Trains run from Manchester and Cardiff to stations in Chirk, Bangor, and Carmarthen. Check current times and fares at the National Rail.

Accommodations
If you decide to stay in Chirk, The Hand Hotel, located near the railway station, has moderately priced rooms and a relaxed atmosphere. In Bangor, you can enjoy lovely views of the Menai Straights and Snowdonia mountains in one of the Eryl Mor Hotel’s comfortable en-suite bedrooms. If you’re looking for something more rustic where you can tuck into a delicious Welsh breakfast, try the award-winning B&B Allt y Golua Farmhouse, a ten minute drive from both the National Botanic Gardens and Aberglasney House. If not, the 4-star Cawdor Hotel in Llandeilo is a stylish inn with bright rooms and a good restaurant.

Eateries
If you’re looking for a bite to eat or a hot beverage to warm you up, the tea-rooms at Chirk and Penrhyn Castles serve fresh, locally-sourced foods. At the National Botanic Garden, both the Gatehouse Café and Seasons Restaurant offers local and organic goodies. Aberglasney House’s Gardeners’ Café is located near a tranquil pool, also serves local and seasonal foods.

Written by Carrie Uffindell for EuropeUpClose.com

Related posts:

More Travel Stuff We Love

Terri Fogarty — Tue, 31 Jan 2012 17:14:20 +0000

We keep finding more great travel gear, gadgets and ideas that we want to share with our traveling readers. From backpacks, to travel gadgets, to travel websites; we think you’ll enjoy our latest rundown of …’travel stuff we love.’

Travel Stuff We Love

The Airporter Backpack

The folks at Guerrilla Packs sent us their Airporter backpack to try out; and we did. We were thoroughly impressed with this pack that retails for $129. As a matter of fact their motto is “Great adventure products don’t have to cost $200!” So, all of their quality products are reasonably priced. Overall this is a exceptionally well made and affordable travel backpack with features galore. It’s the perfect size. Big enough to fit the things you need and small enough to stow as a carry on. It’s also very comfortable with adjustable straps and waist support.

The pack has tons of features:

- A detachable day-pack with plenty of compartments for valuables.

- A laptop case that securely attaches to the main interior compartment

- 2 water bottle compartments

- The pack is waterproof with a rain-fly

- Two small padded compartments in the interior of the pack, perfect for a camera.

The design is more sporty than subtle. It’s perfect for those trips that require trekking and less appropriate for urban trips in which there’s easy access to cabs and hotels. In those cases the adjustment straps and waist support belt are unnecessary. And even though it’s possible to conceal the adjustment straps and waist support belt in a zippered compartment, there’s no true way to use it as a duffle bag. (Despite a side handle there isn’t a way to attach a shoulder strap.) If you need a lightweight, well made, highly functional bag at an affordable price this might just be the pack for you.

Guerrilla Packs Airporter Travel Backpack Duffel Hybrid with Detachable Daypack (Red, 50-Liter + 10-Liter)

The Innergie Travel Charging Kit

This kit works well with iPads, iPhones, Smartphones, iPods, MP3 players, eBooks, GPS units and more. The Innergie Travel Kit turns any wall outlet into two USB Power points so you can charge and sync two of your devices simultaneously. The kit also includes a car dual charger; how handy is that?

Travel Clothes Care
The One-Care company (the folks who bring you Tide and Downey) sent us a great little travel kit to review. The kit included some highly useful little items that could make your travels easier. For instance, the Dryel on-the-go stain remover is just the ticket for those spill and stain events. With limited wardrobe changes on a trip, it is great to have a handy stain-remover. I wish I’d have had it when I dripped a gelato down the front of my dress last summer in Nice. I also tried out their travel-size Bounce lint roller, and a Downey wrinkle release spray. This spray removes wrinkles from clothes that have been jam-packed in your suitcase. I really liked the Tide travel laundry bag. What a concept! This bag will absorb odors, and resist bacteria growth on the dirty clothes you store. All these items comply with TSA carry-on requirements.

Travel Websites We Love

Here are a few websites we like and think that you may enjoy as well.

BackPackMojo

Backpackmojo is a clever website that lets you build your own travel guide and then lets you publish it. The process is pretty user friendly, and you’ll be shepherded through the all the steps in developing your guide. Once you have built your guide, you can even sell copies of your little masterpiece. To help plan your next trip, you can browse itineraries developed by other travelers. Here is a little video that tells you more about the site.

Spotted by Locals
This website, developed by a couple in Amsterdam, Sanne and Bart van Poll, connects travelers with locals who really know the city they write about. These locals write travel tips for their city that help travelers immerse themselves in the culture of that city. When visitors experience cities the local way, they learn about the culture and customs of the inhabitants. The van Polls are convinced that a better understanding of different cultures will make the world a better place, and we agree.

Take a look at Spotted by Locals and see what you think.

Written by Terri Fogarty for EuropeUpClose.com

Related posts:

Venice in Winter: Intrigue and Mystery

Inka Piegsa-Quischotte — Mon, 30 Jan 2012 16:44:22 +0000

Winter is a fine season to visit Venice. Finally, I get to mingle with actual Venetians, to rub shoulders with them on numerous vaporetto rides along the canals and to the islands and to haggle amongst Venetians over delicious fruit and vegetables at the markets at the foot of the Rialto bridge.

I am warmly welcomed in mom and pop shops, deep in the alleyways, when I enter and enquire about the displayed, multi-colored and wildly twisted pasta that I have never before seen. I can enjoy a cappuccino and sinful chocolate cake at the famous Café Florian without having to stand in line. Yes, it feels good to be surrounded by chic locals whiling away the day and having a their own good time.

It may be a bit chilly and it might rain occasionally, but that’s nothing a warm coat, boots and an umbrella can’t cure. Add to this the advantage that during the winter hiatus prices for hotels drop considerably and the shops offer discounts and sale prices; and Venice, before the crowds descend again for carnival in February, is a winter destination par excellence. Of course, more than a few knowledgeable tourists and visitors are around, which means that all the sites, museums and attractions are open.

My home away from home for four days was the aptly named Hotel Serenissima in Calle Goldoni, half way between the Rialto stop where the vaporetto from the airport dropped me and St. Mark’s Square. A lovely four story town house, and family run, Hotel Serenissima is a low-season bargain at 81€ for a single including breakfast and taxes. Two things require particular mention: a) free and working wifi in your room and, b) breakfast. The owner, herself, greets you in the first floor breakfast room by name and with a big smile, huge coffee pot in one hand, hot milk in the other. She then rushes off to heat your choice of flaky croissants, toast and other delicacies. If you must, you can have tea, but…

Thus fortified, I made my way to St. Mark’s Square. My eyes fell on a notice board which announced: ’Murder and Mystery Tour’. Fabulous. In the city with a history full of conspiracy and intrigue, I couldn’t have asked for more. The tour started at 5pm and cost 20€. I bought my ticket and returned at the appointed hour.

The group, which assembled near the ticket office, consisted of just six eager souls; three Italians, an American, a French lady and myself. We introduced ourselves to each other and agreed on English as a common language. Now, where was our guide? As if on cue, a figure right out of a Goldoni play literally jumped into our midst. Our guide, a young actor as it turned out, a native of Venice, in full period costume quickly set the scene. Twirling his walking stick he promised us secret alleys, anecdotes and mysteries. And he did not disappoint. At a quick clip, he led us deeper and deeper into the side streets of Venice. We followed over bridges and across squares while our guide, in the most dramatic fashion, pointed out secret doors in palaces which were used by the gentleman or lady of the house to conduct illicit trysts. He showed us a balcony over which ghosts threw a greedy man into the canal after murdering him. Over and over again, our guide recounted stories of Casanova gambling and carousing with his friends or hiding in this house or that after seducing various women. The stories are too many to be told here, but they were entertaining and fascinating and so were the out-of-the-way parts of Venice we saw. The tour was, of course, made even more dramatic by our guide’s play acting.

After two hours and in tune with the theme of intrigue and mystery, he raised his stick and declared: “Ladies and gentlemen, this is where our tour ends! ” Lord, where are we, I thought? I had no sense of direction and felt somewhat disoriented. Looking around, I found myself in front of the Ospedale Civile, quite a distance from St. Mark’s Square.

By now it was dark and our little group had quickly dispersed. I thought: let’s see if I can’t get a private tour back. As our guide prepared to slip away, I asked him if he was returning to St. Mark’s Square. He was. Could I go with him? “But, of course.” And thus started my second tour, even more entertaining than the ‘official’ one. He told me about his acting career, about the art scene in Venice and then asked me if I was hungry. We entered a tiny trattoria, shared a couple of delicious ham and vegetable sandwiches, a few glasses of wine, followed by a grappa and then we parted company at the Café Florian.

The tour was a most enjoyable experience and an entertaining way to see Venice. Make sure to wear comfortable shoes and bring a map so you can find your own way back if ’abandoned’ at the end of the tour. You can get lost in Venice, but on the other hand there are signs everywhere which direct you towards either the Rialto Bridge or St. Mark’s Square. Although, from time to time, the signs seem to point in opposite directions. This suggests either the long or the short route, but you’ll eventually end up where you want to go.

Written by Inka Piegsa-Quischotte for EuropeUpClose.com

Related posts:

Up Close Picture of the Week: La Sila National Park in Italy

Mattie Bamman — Sat, 28 Jan 2012 15:43:56 +0000

La Sila National Park is located in the Calabria region of Italy (a.k.a. the toe of the boot). It is off the beaten track, providing visitors a quiet, less expensive alternative to Italy’s other winter vacation destinations. However, don’t think that its natural beauty is in any way sub-par; sweeping mountains and one of the most stunning valleys in Italy comprise the 650 square mile park. For those who enjoy skiing, there are trails and lifts throughout the park. Learn more about La Sila National Park.

Photo by Mattie Bamman for EuropeUpClose.com

Related posts:

Spring Airfare Bargains on Lufthansa

Terri Fogarty — Fri, 27 Jan 2012 14:02:49 +0000

Plan your spring vacation now and see Europe in full bloom! With these great fares, you can melt away the long winter in style. Take in the culture, scenery and everything else Europe has to offer with fares starting at $649*.

Book by: Feb 9, 2012
Depart between: Apr 4 – May 17, 2012

New York to Dublin        from   $649*
New York to Krakow     from   $817*
Atlanta to Budapest       from   $972*
Chicago to Prague     from $845*
Chicago to Milan             from $892*
Denver to Geneva            from $990*
LAX to Istanbul              from $827*
LAX to Prague              from $992*
Seattle to Paris                from $980*
Seattle to Milan           from $928*

* Round-trip including all taxes and fees. Weekend surcharges up to $60. To get these great bargains, read the fine print below, then contact your travel agent or Lufthansa Airlines

Conditions for this offer

Purchase by: 02/09/2012
Departure period: 04/02/2012-05/17/2012
Return period: 04/15/2012-06/15/2012
Advance Purchase Period: 7 days
Travel Economy Class; travel on Air Canada, Continental, Lufthansa, or United.
Fares are based on round-trip purchase (PUR) and mid-week travel.
Saturday night stay is required. Weekend surcharges up to $60 round-trip.
Maximum stay is 1 month.
Date changes before and after departure: permitted at $250 per change.

Fares are subject to change without notice and are based on the most direct routing to each destination. Additional transfers will increase the fare. Fares include applicable fees, taxes and airport charges, including the September 11th Security Fee of a maximum of $10 per round-trip. Additional baggage fees may apply. Seats are limited and may not be available on all days/flights. Tickets are non-refundable, non-endorsable, non-transferable and other restrictions may apply.

To book these Airfare bargains, call your travel agent or go to Lufthansa Airlines

Related posts:

Eating the Adriatic – A Date with Alba’s White Truffle Festival

Mattie Bamman — Thu, 26 Jan 2012 16:53:56 +0000

I arrived in the Langhe region to visit the annual Alba White Truffle Festival. Located in a part of Italy’s Piedmont region, the Langhe is home to some of the most prized cooking ingredients on earth. White truffles, Carrú beef, and a variety of cheeses, such as, the Robiola Rocchetta, testun de fen, and Castelmagno cheeses are products of this region.

Some travelers that I met had accidentally stumbled upon the festival, whereas others had planned their visit months in advance. “We got married with the truffle festival in mind,” said Nadine Gordenev, who was with her husband Brian on their honeymoon. Piedmont produces many of Italy’s most popular egg pastas, including agnolotti, tajarin, and panzerotti; and its wines, with names like dolcetto, Barbaresco, Barolo, and barbera, are world-famous. For me, Alba and the towns that surround it—Barolo, Barbaresco, Bra—are culinary heaven.

I arrived in Alba during some of the heaviest rains in recent memory, and the Po River was threatening to flood its banks. The colors of the leaves in the vineyards were so brilliant that they looked like molten lava, but the pelting rain soon tore them to the ground. The truffle hunt—during which trained dogs paw the countryside looking for white truffles, some of which grow as much as a meter deep—had been canceled due to the rain , and because I didn’t feel like getting washed away in the river, I went straight to the Alba Truffle Festival. You can read about another of my truffle hunting adventures here.

Two weeks prior to visiting Alba, I’d attended and written about the Zigante Truffle Festival in Istria, Croatia. Istria and Alba are the only two places on earth recognized for producing high quality white truffles. The white truffle perplexes scientists because it cannot be cultivated, and it only grows September-November. That white truffles stay fresh just seven to ten days makes them even more elusive, and when they appear on restaurant menus in the United States they are exceptionally expensive.

Wandering among the rows of truffle hunters, each seated behind glass cases full of white truffles, I was in search of good deals. Are white truffles more affordable if you buy them locally? I met with Stafano Cometti, who opened the Centro Nazionale Studi Tartufo (the National Center for the Study of Truffles), a school—the first of its kind—dedicated to studying white truffles. He taught me that different truffles have different flavors, and that the flavors are determined by soil type as well as the type of tree under which the truffle grows. The larger and fresher the truffle, the more flavorful the truffle. At the fair, I found truffles that cost as little as 10€, but I noticed that they looked a little dried up, which is a sign of a lack of freshness. Fortunately, all of the truffles at the Alba Truffle Festival are examined by members of the Centro Nazionale Studi Tartufo, and you can even get the experts to examine a truffle that you’ve bought. The prices of white truffles ranged from 10€ to almost 2,000€, and the next time I visit Alba during truffle season, I plan to rent an apartment and cook gigantic truffle feasts.

Besides white truffles, products showcasing white truffle essence were sold, which stay fresh longer than fresh white truffles. White truffle essence is not actually derived from white truffles, but it tastes similar and its flavors remain intact for months. There was fresh, truffle-stuffed agnolotti pasta, truffle sausage (raw samples of which were out of this world), white truffle cheeses, and white truffle honey. Wineries also set up stands, and you could buy a wine glass for eight euros and get unlimited tastes of all the wines. Entrance to the Alba Truffle Festival is two euros.

To get a taste of the Langhe’s traditional dishes, we attended the Saturday for Foodies event. I highly recommend it: For 15€, you get to learn about the local cuisine over a light lunch with wine. The first dish was the famous carne crudo, which features the area’s high quality beef. Literally translated as “raw meat,” carne crudo is a simple dish of carefully chopped or ground beef that is lightly seasoned. I was served three types of carne crudo: one with salt, pepper, olive oil, and garlic; one with salt, pepper, olive oil, and Parmesan shavings; and one with salt and hazelnut oil. Each crudo’s beef had been cut differently; the courser crudo showed the meat’s inherent texture whereas the more finely ground crudo revealed the beef’s sweetness. The crudo paired perfectly with the 2009 Rivetto Dolcetto D’Alba “Ercolino.”

I tried Alba’s fresh white truffles at two restaurants. Most restaurants offer either truffle tasting menus or the option to purchase truffle by the gram and add it to any dish. Most restaurants charge around five euros a gram. At La Piola restaurant, our waiter, Andrea Canaparo, suggested a minimum of three grams of fresh white truffle for a plate of pasta. If you want to taste truffle but don’t want to break the bank, I recommend ordering fried eggs—a ubiquitous menu item thanks to its ability to showcase truffle flavor—with two grams of fresh white truffle. The entire dish should cost around 16€.

La Piola restaurant is located in Alba’s main piazza, Piazza Risorgimento. I tried my first Albese white truffle over Tajarin pasta with salt and butter. Tajarin is a very eggy pasta cut into fine strips; it’s the perfect vehicle for fresh white truffle. The dish’s aroma was buttery and slightly mushroomy, and the heat brought out the flavor of the truffle. The dish paired excellently with the 2008 Ceretto Barbaresco Asij: the acidity and tannins were soft enough to let the truffle shine, and I tasted red fruit, cedar, and baking spices.

I had my second truffle experience at Il Vigneto restaurant, which is located in a farmhouse outside of Roddi (a 15-minute drive from Alba). Perched on a hill, the restaurant comes with astonishing views of the rolling, grapevine-covered hills (Roddi is just one town over from Barolo after all). The restaurant’s décor was youthful but refined, like a farmhouse meets a lounge in Milan. Here, white truffle was also served over Tajarin with salt and butter, but the flavor of the white truffle was strikingly different. Found on the Il Vigneto grounds, the white truffle was much more garlicy and at times I thought I tasted unsweetened chocolate with cinnamon, but that sounds too fantastic to be possible. Perhaps it was the trippy, ambient music playing in the dining room. The dish was finished with olive oil, which spread the truffle aroma even more. After eating at Il Vigneto I realized how different each truffle can be: this is something white truffle essence cannot replicate.

In my next article I head to the southern Italian region of Puglia. Parts of Puglia are just 69 miles from Albania, and ferries run direction to Dubrovnik, Croatia, from the Pugliese cities of Bari and Brindisi. This will complete my circumnavigation of the Adriatic Sea and all of its flavors.

Alba Hotel Recommendation

Hotel Langhe – $$$
This modern hotel is located one mile from Alba’s center, making for a peaceful stay. As if the babbling brook that runs behind the hotel weren’t enough, the owners go out of their way to make sure their guests feel at home. The rooms are artfully decorated; some have balconies. The included breakfast is hearty, the 15-minute walk to the town center is pleasant.
View More photos
Strada Profonda, 21

Restaurant Recommendations in and Near Alba

La Piola – $$$
Bustling and professional, La Piola provides an excellent selection of traditional dishes. Antipasti begin at six euros, primo at twelve, wine by the bottle at fourteen, and fresh white truffle is sold for five euros a gram. This is a good place to taste white truffle and get to know the local cuisine; the preparation of the dishes is well executed.
Piazza Risorgimento, 4

Vincafe – $-$$
Thanks to Vincafe, it’s possible to find a good, cheap meal in Alba. Upon entering, you’ll see an unpretentious café, but continue upstairs to find a modern dining room. Dishes tend to run a few euros less than typical, and there’s no coperto (cover charge). The pastas are very good, and the list of wines by the glass is enormous.
Via Vittorio Emanuele, 12

Osteria Dell’Arco – $$$
You’ll have to walk through a courtyard off of Piazza Savona to find this restaurant, which serves inspired local dishes in Slow Food style. Osteria Dell’Arco seems to interpret Slow Food cuisine as food that is simple, seasonal, and creative. Expect to be surprised by familiar flavors. The wine list is extensive and there are many good, inexpensive bottles.
Piazza Savona, 5

Il Vigneto – $$$
Il Vigneto provides a very special experience. Located in the middle of the countryside, the restaurant manages to combine the iconic Italian farmhouse with urban chic. Vaulted brick ceilings meet recessed lighting and designer furniture. All of it combines to create an atmosphere like no other, which is especially ideal if you’re ordering a once-in-a-lifetime meal of truffles. The plates are beautifully arranged. The homemade Tajarin that I had was perfectly cooked. Don’t miss the “Gianduia” Chocolate Mousse, which comes with a playful line of pop-rocks on the side.
Localita Ravinali, 19/20
Roddi d’Alba

Agriturismo Dindina – $$$$
This is the type of place where you absolutely need to make a reservation: the chef only buys enough food to cover the numbers in the books. Expect authentic Lombardy cuisine cooked as your Lombard mother would cook it. Be warned, many of the dishes will include the traditional fish sauces, such as tonnato sauce and bagna cauda. There are no menus, but there will be at least two options for each course. A complete, four-course meal costs 30 euros before wine.
Via Umberto I
Neviglie

Asso di Quadri Pizzeria – $
Believe it or not, I had one of the best pizzas ever at this little pizzeria in Neviglie (about a 15-minute drive from Alba). If you like pizza like they make it in Naples, check out Asso di Quadri.
Via Mango, 7
Neviglie

Written by Mattie Bamman for EuropeUpClose.com

Related posts:

Beautiful Budapest: a Bargain for Travelers

Guest Contributor — Wed, 25 Jan 2012 15:44:13 +0000

Budapest is a bargain for travelers: it is the new Prague. Western travelers are discovering this exciting city, and prices are still much lower than in Western Europe’s top cities.

Hungarian composer Gyorgy Ligeti summed up Budapest beautifully when he once said, “If you come from Paris to Budapest you think you are in Moscow. If you come from Moscow to Budapest, you think you are in Paris.”

Caught midway between Western and Eastern Europe, where the Carpathian basin meets the mountains and plains of central Hungary, the two ancient towns of Buda and Pest are divided by the wide blue Danube River. United into one city in 1873, Budapest displays a fascinating combination of east and west cultures. It’s visible everywhere in this vibrant city: In the Gothic architecture of its superb Houses of Parliament and restored Renaissance cathedrals and basilica; in ancient castles; and the Turkish baths strewn around the city like elaborate mosaic oases of heated water.

It’s easy to be entranced by the contrasts between old and new Budapest. Polite young hawkers standing on street corners, dressed in jeans and sweat tops bearing the names of U.S. Universities, try to talk you into taking their bus tour, over the din of the busy traffic-packed streets. Coffee shops and Izod and Cartier storefronts announce the 21^st century in modern shopping centers and street malls. Yet, around the corner you stumble across a Basilica echoing with Latin chants or gaze across the wide Danube to the old historic town’s austere, squat Buda Castle just as its citizens did in the 14^th century.

A great way to start your tour of Budapest is by soaking in its turbulent history at the Hungarian National Museum. Celts, Romans, Magyars, Turks, the Habsburgs, Nazi Germany, and the Soviet Union have invaded Budapest at one time or another. Stroll through the superb galleries in this neoclassical building, constructed between 1837 and 1846, as you look at the intriguing artifacts of these epochs, and relish in Hungary’s happy ending when it was declared a Republic on October 23, 1989 with the abrupt collapse of communism.

The Ethnographic Museum is well worth visiting for its marvelous collection of historical and cultural artifacts, its displays crammed with a huge variety of Bric-a-brac (192,000 objects!) dating from the town’s early settlements in the Bronze Age around 2000 B.C. You walk through time as each gallery brings you closer to contemporary society. But the main reason you should visit this museum is to admire the sheer magnificence of the museum’s marble entry hall. Originally the royal court or Palace of Justice, built in 1893-6, the hall’s breathtaking blend of Renaissance, Baroque, and Classical architecture is seen in its regal staircases, Corinthian columns, and inlaid floor tiles. It’s easy to see why it has been the backdrop of many a renaissance movie.

The nearby Houses of Parliament (built 1885-1904) is equally stunning, with a 96-meter high red dome, Neo-Gothic and Baroque architecture, and decorated with 233 statues, 27 gates, 10 courtyards, and 691 rooms. The line for the tour is however, formidable, and you might be better off simply walking around the outside.

Castle Hill overlooks Budapest like a majestic emperor, and you’ll easily spend a day or two exploring its eclectic museums, Sandor Palace, and Buda Castle (which houses the Hungarian National Gallery) in this perfectly maintained medieval town, complete with cobblestone roads. But, start your tour of the Castle District from Batthany Square down beside the Danube and walk a mile up the steep hill through the suburbs of Buda to get a feel for how the locals live.

Two spectacular sights within a stone’s throw of each other on Castle Hill’s picturesque Holy Trinity Square are the renowned Matyas Church, with an unforgettable mosaic tiled roof, and Fisherman’s Bastion, the section of the medieval wall manned by the Fisherman’s Guild, with spiked turrets looking like something from a fairy tale.

Budapest’s bustling Central market is a cultural hodge-podge of souvenir shops, food stalls, and delis, offering a crash course in Hungarian cuisine. I tried a progressive meal of Hungarian sausage, salami, cheeses, hams, savory pastries and goulash, all with varying amounts of the ubiquitous spicy red Hungarian paprika mixed in, with results from mildly appetizing to mouth burning. Take a moment to admire the structural steel girder architecture in this massive hall. If it looks vaguely familiar, it’s because it was designed by Gustav Eiffel of the Paris Tower fame.

To do justice to Budapest, a solid week of sightseeing is recommended. There’s far more in the town than can be compressed into a sound bite, but other must-dos include: crossing the Danube and Chain Bridge, taking the waters at any of Budapest’s renowned baths, visiting through St. Stephen’s Basilica, walking through Hero’s Square and the nearby Szechenyi Baths, window shopping along the Vaci Street pedestrian mall, and strolling through the town’s many fine museums.

You’ll find the Hungarians very eager to show you their city, with that sort of strong pride so evident in a country that has only recently gained its political and cultural freedom.

Visiting Budapest is like playing with Hungarian Erno Rubik’s famous Cube of the same name. Every time you turn one way or the other, dozens of intriguing scenic combinations confront you. Do I go this way to a history museum or that way to visit a Turkish bath; this way to a palace or that way to a historic town perched atop a hill? Whatever way you choose, Budapest will thrill you. And now is the time to visit, while its tourist prices are still very reasonable.

Written by By Roy Stevenson for EuropeUpClose.com

Roy Stevenson is a freelance travel writer and photographer based in Seattle, Washington. To view more of Roy’s travel articles go to www.Roy-Stevenson.com

Related posts:

Jurmala: Latvia’s new Wellness Paradise

Eric Barrier — Tue, 24 Jan 2012 15:41:20 +0000

Just a half hour west of Riga is Latvia’s new Wellness Paradise: Jurmala, the seaside resort town whose name translates to … seaside. What Jurmala may lack in creativity it makes up for in it’s refreshing, natural beauty.

Stretching along the Baltic Sea’s east coast, Jurmala features 33 kilometers of white sand and a line of forest to hedge against any development that would interrupt the pristine shore. Latvia understood long ago what a resource an unspoiled shoreline could be, and the law requires any development to take place inland, on the other side of the tree line.

History of Jurmala

So far, the peak of Jurmala’s popularity occured during the Soviet era, when the Baltic coast was a favorite holiday retreat for the Communist Party’s political elites. Khrushchev, in particular, was a fan of what was then the Soviet Union’s west coast.

Since independence, Jurmala has struggled to create an identity outside of the Baltics and Russia, though tourist numbers have yet to reach the peak that the mid-20th century brought. This is great news for anyone who enjoys uncrowded, undeveloped beaches; and the air is so fresh you can smell the sea salt and pine as you walk around Jurmala.

The natural bay keeps the water calm, and the water itself is quite shallow a way’s out from the shore, so it’s perfect for frolicking kids. Please note, though, that the Baltic Sea is never, ever warm. This is a good thing on those days when the temperature cracks 30C (86 Fahrenheit) and everyone in Riga needs to cool off.

Jurmala: A World-Class Spa Destination

The crisp, refreshing air and unspoiled natural setting has also contributed to making Jurmala home to many sanatoriums, wellness facilities, and health retreats. Today, the character and essential property of the area has led to a boom in health spas.

The spas in Jurmala are innovative, comprehensive and — above all — really, really cheap by European standards. Here are a couple of examples:
1. The day spa at Hotel Jurmala offers scores of treatment options, from an hour-long skin treatment with chocolate (about $60) to 80-minute buckwheat massages (about $80).

2. The spa at the Baltic Beach Hotel, a Soviet architectural marvel in its own right, offers some truly adventurous treatments such as a weightless-state bed massage with Dead Sea mud (about $60) and salt-room therapy (about $10).

Getting To Jurmala

By Car
You can take the A10 west out of Riga and be in Jurmala within a half hour. Please note that all cars entering Jurmala must stop to purchase a ticket for 1 Lat.

By Rail
If you are going to Jurmala by train, there is a trick to it. Jurmala technically comprises 13 different towns, and each has its own stop on the line. The two most trafficked stops are the Majori stop and the Dzintari stop. Further stops offer more secluded beaches. Have a look at this map for more information.

When you buy the ticket at the station, you have to tell the cashier which stop you’re going to. If you are not sure, probably take the train to Majori; that’s where most of the hotels and businesses are located, and it’s the most navigable stop after stepping off the train. Double-check the direction of the train (the Jurmala trains go in the direction of either Tukums or Dubulti), and find the corresponding platform. The train to Majori takes 30 minutes flat.

Jurmala’s Other Attractions

Dzintari Concert Hall
This is a great outdoor concert hall located just behind the tree line at the Dzintari stop. In the summer, Jurmala hosts some really fantastic festivals, operas and concerts. If you go, you can check the schedule here.

Livu Aquapark
The indoor waterpark just inside the city boundary is a great place to take your kids.

It’s also a great place to take yourself. On the adult side of the building, there are multiple saunas — of varying drynesses and temperatures — a few hot tubs and a pool bar with an adjacent bubble massager. A drink with an umbrella in it can be had for about $5. If you are ever in Latvia in January, you will understand what an important resource Livu Aquapark is.

Written by Eric Barrier for EuropeUpClose.com

No related posts.