EuropeUpClose

Musings on Morella, Spain

Terri Fogarty — Wed, 08 Sep 2010 15:05:56 +0000

On a recent trip to Spain, sponsored by the Land of Valencia, we visited Morella, in the region of Castellon. We loved this little town that, thankfully, was not over-run with tourists, but offered everything a tourist could hope for.

Located about a hundred miles inland and nothwest of Valencia, Morella is a fortified town built on an outcrop at about 1000 meters above sea level. As you approach this ancient city, you will see the ruined castle reaching for the sky at the very center of the town. You will also see the Aqueduct of Santa Llúcia constructed by the Romans centurys ago.

To enter the town, you must pass through one of seven gates; we gained access through the imposing twin towers of the Portal Sant Miquel. Walking along the main street, Blasco de Alagón, which winds its way up through the town, we noticed how the buildings and surrounding trees kept the town cool on an otherwise extremely hot day.

This now peaceful town has a long and contentious history. It has been occupied by the Iberians, Romans, Moors, Greeks, and Cartheginians. It played a part in the Napoleonic wars and was finally captured by forces of Generalisimo Franco in April 1938. Since Spain’s transition to democracy, the town has again flourished.

The charm of Morella lies in its winding streets lined with shops and restaurants and its fantastic architecture as evidenced by the Church of Santa Maria la Major. This architectural beauty reveals itself once inside, where you will be surprised by the rich decor and intricate carvings.

To visit the castle ruins, requires a long and steep walk, which we were not prepared to endeavor on such a hot day. But those in our group who made the trek were glad they did.

In the surrounding areas, agriculture, and cheese production dominate. But Morella is also a good place to purchase craft products and black truffles which are traded at seasonal markets during the winter. We were astounded by the variety of cheese, sausage, honey and other local products available in Morella’s quaint shops. Many of the shops offer a free tasting and we took advantage of the opportunity.

We had a fantastic lunch at the Restaurante Casa Roque, where they serve traditional Morellain cuisine. We had the menu de degustation, which was at least five courses of deliciousness.

Morella is an easy day-trip from Valencia Castellon, or Peniscola, and well worth the drive. A nice stop along the way is in the tiny town of Ares. You can get a nice, cool drink or at snack at the Hotel D’Ares and take a short walk up the hill for a commanding view of the valleys and mountains before you.

Written by Terri Fogarty for EuropeUpClose.com

The New Centre Pompidou: Contemporary Art Comes to Metz, France

Jen Westmoreland Bouchard — Tue, 07 Sep 2010 14:41:15 +0000

In my post The Incomparable Centre Pompidou – Paris, France, I extol the cultural virtues of one of the premier contemporary art centers in the world. In May 2010, the Pompidou opened a satellite facility in the northeast French city of Metz. The museum’s modern structure, which is frequently compared to a UFO, has energized Metz and inspired a citywide renovation as well as the opening of myriad new bars and restaurants.

Centre Pompidou-Metz is just south of Metz’s train station, on the location where the Roman amphitheatre stood over two thousand years ago. The Metz Pompidou building was designed by Japanese architect Shigeru Ban in collaboration with the French architect Jean de Gastines. The interior is comprised of three narrow superposed gallery spaces, each of which is strategically aligned to give visitors a view of one of three major sites in the city: Metz’s Gothic cathedral, the train station and the Parc de la Seille.

Housed in each of these galleries are selections from the center’s 65,000 works from the Musée National d’Art Moderne to draw on. In the opening exhibition entitled Chef d’Oeuvre? (Masterpieces?) ,which is on display through October 25, 700 pieces from modern art greats like Picasso, Miro and Calder are displayed to facilitate the goal of questioning the idea of the masterpiece in modern art. Similar to its Parisian cousin, the Centre Pompidou-Metz is a multidisciplinary facility. This summer, they’ve been screening films in an open-air setting (the last one for this summer was “La Dolce Vita”).

The city of Metz has a lot to offer visitors outside of the museum as well. Quality restaurants in all price points are numerous. If you’re feeling peckish after viewing phenomenal art, head to Cafe Mathis for a traditional French bistrot experience. Locals flock to this lively establishment for hearty fare, strong aperitifs and good conversation. Oh, and the prices are incredibly reasonable.

Foodies should definitely try Le Magasin aux Vives, widely considered to be the top gourmet restaurant in Metz. Chef Christophe Dufosse (the only chef in Metz to have a Michelin star, by the way) uses primarily local products in his highly innovative dishes. The extensive wine list covers a wide range of varietals and vineyards (primarily French). Le Magasin aux Vives is located in a large 16th-century military citadel that Christophe and his wife Delphine transformed into the four-star La Citadelle Hotel some years ago.

Centre Pompidou- Metz
4 Rue du Chanoine Collin
57000 Metz, France
Tel: 00 33 3 8715 3939

Cafe Mathis
72 en Fournirue
Tel: +33 (0)38 71 8967
Open Weekdays 8am-10pm; Sat 9am-10pm

Le Magasin aux Vives
5 avenue Ney
Tel: +33 (0)38 71 71717

Written by Jen Westmoreland Bouchard for EuropeUpClose.com

Exploring Berlin’s Famous KaDeWe

Morgen Young — Mon, 06 Sep 2010 15:20:11 +0000

There are many must see sights that nearly all tourists flock to when in Germany’s capital city – the Brandenburg Gate, the Reichstag, Checkpoint Charlie – but one not to be missed is KaDeWe.

Opened in 1907, Kaufhaus des Westens is the largest department store in Germany and second largest in Europe, only behind London’s Harrods. The impressive building on Tauentzienstraße contains seven floors of luxury items. One could get distracted by the designer label clothing, beauty products and house wares, but upon entering the store, I suggest you head directly to the sixth story, the gourmet floor. Known as the delicatessen department, this mecca for anyone with an inkling of a foodie tendency offers thirty-three distinct stalls of foodstuffs. Upon exiting the escalator, visitors are greeted by a detailed re-creation of the Brandenburg Gate made entirely of marzipan.

Beyond the candied version of the monument is the chocolate and other sweets aisle, offering everything from the affordable Milka brand in its distinctive purple packaging to expensive, exotic truffles and elaborate boxes of confections. Moving to the interior of the floor, visitors can wind their way through one distinct area after another. One such section is dedicated to every imaginable type of condiment – from mustards to oils to vinegars and beyond, while another corner displays hundreds of jars of jams, jellies and honeys from Europe and elsewhere. Moving further still within, shoppers will find the fresh fish and seafood displays, a meat market, produce - both local and imported, and more cheese than one may have sampled in a lifetime. Those patrons interested more in beverages than food will find specific sections dedicated each to coffee, tea, wine, beer and spirits. In the pastry stall, illuminated glass cases are filled with petit fours, brightly hued macarons, fresh fruit tarts, and cakes in all shapes and sizes. The bread department proffers German rolls and loaves, as well as those varieties more commonly found in France. Various pantry items and staples are found here as well, everything from the German Knorr label to Uncle Ben’s rice and Asian snack mixes.

Nearly every stall offers limited seating so patrons can enjoy a bite to eat or sample different types of coffee while they shop. Prices are slightly lower if one plans to enjoy his or her purchased sandwich or slice of cake in-store rather than takeaway. One can sample a German beer on draught, pull up a seat at the oyster bar, sip on teas from around the world, or try a praline at the chocolate bar. For a more formal meal, head one floor up to the Wintergarten, boasting some of the best views of Berlin. Locals and tourists alike can be found wandering around the sixth floor of KaDeWe, but the delicatessen is most crowded on Saturdays.

While the prices of many of the items found on the gourmet floor are expensive, some great gifts and souvenirs can be found here. Rather than bringing home a shot glass with the German flag or miniaturized Reichstag, consider mementos such as tubes of spicy German mustard infused with tarragon, jars of Himalayan sea salt, locally made jam, or interesting chocolate concoctions.

KaDeWe is open Monday through Thursday 10:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m.; Friday 10:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m.; and Saturday 9:30 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. Located near the Wittenbergplatz, the department store can be reached by the U-Bahn (subway) lines 1 or 7 to the Wittenbergplatz stop.

Guide to Rome’s Outdoor Markets

Mattie Bamman — Sun, 05 Sep 2010 15:53:27 +0000

Some of the best deals in Rome can be found in the beautiful outdoor markets. Located in timeless settings on ancient streets and in stunning piazzas, the markets offer every kind of merchandise imaginable, from immaculate floral arangments and high-quality produce to inexpensive clothes, shoes, and antiques. I first visited the markets as a tourist and then later while writing a guide book. Below is a guide to the most important markets in Rome.

Campo di Fiori Market

By far, the most visually stunning market is the market held in Campo di Fiori, which is a vitual playground for amateur photographers. Campo di Fiori, which means field of flowers, is filled with flower venders whose delicate selections of flowers transported me, well, into a photograph of Rome. Smiling venders watered their flowers while men and women dressed in business attire purchased the bouquettes that would later adorn their offices and homes. If you’re traveling, you might not need an entire bouquette, so single flowers are also sold. Further on in the market you can find Italian specialty foods of all types as well as the tools and utensils used to prepare them. I found great deals on marble mortar and pestles (great for making authentic Genevese pesto) and espresso makers.
The selection of fresh produce is extensive but a little on the expensive side. For example, a single artichoke can cost as much as a 1.50 euro, but they are some of the best in the world. Pay attention to what is in season too, because although all of the produce looks nice, some of it is imported from other countries, particularly the fruit. Seafood, olive oil, wine, cheeses, and baked goods are also sold, and don’t pass up visiting a few of the shops that surround the piazza. The Campo di Fiori market takes place Monday through Saturday in the morning and until 1pm.

Via Sannio Market

If you’re looking for inexpensive clothing and enjoy the hunt as much as the spoils, the Via Sannio market is a fun and expansive market worth a visit. Most easily reached by taking the Metro’s A Line toward Anagnina and getting off at the San Giovanni stop, this market is a good place to test out your bartering skills. A good friend once gave me a few tips. Her father is a professional gambler who loves to win with a good bluff. The first rule to bartering, he told her, is to be prepared to walk away. If you can’t leave it, then you can’t barter. With the knowledge that you can walk away, you can always get a lower price because you hold all the cards.

The clothing sold at this market is sometimes simply thrown in piles on large tables with 1.00 euro signs hung above. Dive in. If you want to try anything on, simply do so. If you find a pair of shoes and want to try them on, say Posso provare?, which means, Can I try it? The stand owner will likely provide you with a mirror and chair. The Via Sannio market begins early in the day and goes until early afternoon, Monday through Saturday.

Porta Portese Market

One of the best markets in Rome, the Porta Portese market only takes place on Sunday mornings. It ends early afternoon. Located around Piazza Ippolito Nievo and running up to Ponte Sublicio, it offers more items than I could imagine, including the food, clothing, and antique furniture. If you happen to be in the city on a Sunday it’s worth a visit. Because the streets are jam-packed with people, it’s an adventurous experience. Be sure to pay attention to your wallet or purse.

Written by Mattie Bamman for EuropeUpClose.com

Up-Close Picture of the Week: San Marco Square, Venice

Terri Fogarty — Sat, 04 Sep 2010 16:24:40 +0000

One of the most captivating cities in the world, Venice is unique in its beauty. The ancient buildings and quiet canals take you back to a time of romance and mystery. Here’s our up-close guide to Venice.

Photo by Bill Fogarty for EuropeUpClose.com

Why Rent a Car in Europe? Drive a Brand New Peugeot!

Jen Westmoreland Bouchard — Fri, 03 Sep 2010 14:36:24 +0000

The Scoop on Auto Europe’s Peugeot “Buy Back” Program

A friend who is planning a trip to France recently called to ask if I knew anything about Peugeot’s “Buy Back” program. I didn’t, but was intrigued, so I did a bit of research so I could help him with his travel arrangements. He called me yesterday from France to report that his Peugeot “Buy Back” experience went swimmingly, so I decided to pass the information on to the readers at EuropeUpClose.com.

Here’s the deal:
A Non- European Union citizen traveling to France for more than 17 days is eligible to purchase a brand new Peugeot, drive it during your vacation (as you would a rental car) and then sell the car back to the dealership.

If you are arriving at Charles de Gaulle airport, there is a Peugeot dealer nearby that will sell you one. Another option is to request to be picked up at the airport/train station/hotel to go to the nearest dealership.

What’s in it for the dealership? In France (as well as throughout Europe), there is a Value Added Tax (VAT) that makes luxury purchases (like a car) very expensive…20% more expensive, to be exact. If dealerships sell cars that are “slightly-used,” it saves the new owner this 20% tax. Individuals who are not citizens of the European Union are not required to pay this tax, however. So, the Peugeot dealer sells you the car (without VAT) for at least 17 days, you sell it back, and then the dealership sells it to an E.U. citizen or to a rental company (with no VAT, thanks to the fact that it is pre-owned).

Price-wise, it is often less expensive to do this program than it is to rent a car. It is in the dealership’s best interest that the car is well taken care of while in the possession of its first owner, so they offer zero deductable insurance coverage and a 24-hour service hotline. In the best case scenario, everyone benefits from this program.

Positive aspects of the “Peugeot Buy Back” program:
•   You get to drive a brand new Peugeot
•   The car is fully insured (zero deductible) and you have 24/7 breakdown coverage in case anything goes wrong
•   You only have to be 18 to participate in the buy back program (versus most car rentals that require the primary driver to be at least 21)
•   You can pick up and drop off the car in different cities within France
•   You can return the car without filling up the gas tank

Other things to consider:
•   You need to have the car for at least 17 days
•   The car will usually come to you with very little fuel in it, so be sure to locate a gas station near the pick-up location
•   You will be charged extra for pick-up or drop-off outside of France

Sound good? Check it out at AutoEurope for more information.

Two Short Weeks in Spain

Terri Fogarty — Thu, 02 Sep 2010 15:44:28 +0000

This July, my husband Bill and I, along with several other bloggers, were invited by the Land of Valencia Tourist office on a trip to experience the Valenciana area of Spain and the FIB Music Festival, held for the past 17 years in Benicassim.

Although we have traveled to Europe more than 40 times, this was our first trip to Spain. We were delighted with the invitation, and we decided to add an extra week to our trip so we could visit Barcelona. We are so glad we made this trip. Spain is so different from the other places we have been to in Europe, that we were constantly surprised by the unique architecture, the abundance of fresh produce and seafood and the exceptionally friendly people.

Benicassim, which is located on the Costa del Azahar north of Valencia, is a resort town that is a favorite of the British. The FIB (Festival Internacional de Benicassim) Music Festival draws thousands every year, mostly from England. This year the Festival was held July 15 -18 with Kasabian, Vampire Weekend, The Prodigy and Gorillaz as headliners. But there were scores more bands performing on the three stages over the four nights. The weather, though hot during the day was glorious for this outdoor, nighttime venue. Next year’s dates for the Benicassim FIB are July 14-17^th.

Our days were spent touring this gorgeous part of Spain and in partaking in long, delicious lunches of tapas and fine wine. One day we drove to the Medieval, walled city of Morella. The drive to Morella was memorable in itself. We drove on some one-lane roads up and down the El Maestrat region’s mountains. The mountains were terraced centuries ago and are still used for agriculture today. There are several viewpoints along the way, where you can get a postcard view of the majestic Morella sitting atop a high outcrop. We finished the day with a visit to Peniscola, a fortified town built on a narrow peninsula on the Mediterranean. This area of Spain, the Castellon, is where the Knights of the Templar lived and fought.

One evening we took a hike on the hills above Benicassim to the ruins of a castle that was once the fortress of the legendary El Cid. It was a 5k hike that was led by a young historian, which made the hike all the more interesting and fun. The memory of watching the dramatic sunset from the castle grounds still stays with me.

Although Valencia itself was not on the agenda, we found two days to visit this fantastic, yet overlooked city. It was truly my favorite city on this trip. Just three hours south of Barcelona by fast train, Valencia, the third largest city in Spain, is so beautiful, it takes my breath away. The buildings have a Moorish influence that distinguishes it from Barcelona and other cities to the north. And the City of Arts and Sciences, set just outside the old town, is spectacular. Designed by Valencia born architect Santiago Calatrava, the City of Arts and Sciences is a large-scale urban recreation center for culture and science which also incorporates L’Oceanogràfic, an underwater city designed by the late Felix Candela.

We then spent five memorable days in Barcelona, enjoying the Ramblas, the sea, the museums, and the legacy of Gaudi. The days were quite hot, but walking under the arching plane trees on the Ramblas, with the intermittent breeze from the Mediterranean, made it more tolerable. The hot days gave way to wonderfully comfortable nights which is when this city comes alive. We can’t wait to go back!

Written By Terri Fogarty and photos by Bill Fogarty for EuropeUpClose.com

Croatia Tourist Information

Neha Puntambekar — Wed, 01 Sep 2010 14:00:39 +0000

Introduction to Croatia

Croatia is situated in the South-eastern part of Europe along the Adriatic Sea. It shares land borders with Slovenia, Hungary, Bosnia-Herzegovina, Serbia and Montenegro, and a maritime border with Italy.

The country was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire until World War I, and then became a part of Yugoslavia. In 1991, Croatia declared its independence. What followed was the long and brutal Balkan War.

Croatia has long since recovered from its war wounds and most scars. Given its long and sunny coastline, numerous islands, and rich history, the country has developed into a great tourist destination. A visit to Croatia is a treat for the senses, with each region showing a new face, from unspoilt islands to Roman ruins and sprawling vineyards.

Passports & Visas

Passports are required to enter and leave Croatia. Visas are not required for citizens of the US, Canada, Australia, UK and other EU countries for visits of up to 90 days. For longer visits contact the Croatian embassy in your home country. Visitors from other countries require tourist visas to enter the country. You may also be asked to produce a return ticket and other details (proof) of your stay.

Obtaining a US Passport
The US Government Website is where to start.

Visa Information
Contact: Consulate General of Croatia
For local consulates, look under Consulates on the Website

American Offices
Provides consular assistance to US citizens
United States Embassy
2^nd Thomas Jefferson Street
10010
Zagreb
Tel: 385-1-661-2200

General Information

Culture and History of Croatia
A brief history of Croatia

Currency and Money of Croatia
The official currency of Croatia is the Kuna (1 Kuna = 100 Lipas).

While Euros are accepted by hotels and for large payments, most stores, restaurants and cafes accept payment only in Kunas and by credit card; all major credit cards are accepted, including American Express.

ATMs are widely available across the country. Cash and travelers checks can be exchanged at most banks and currency exchange bureaus. It is advisable to exchange currency locally and preferably at banks, as they offer a better rate of exchange. Banks operate from 8am to 4pm on weekdays.

Driving in Croatia
It is important to pay close attention to all Croatian driving rules. Croatians drive on the right side of the road; headlights are required to be switched on even during the day; at unmarked intersections, the car on the right hand side has right of way. Most road signs are self explanatory and universal.

The speed limit within cities is 50kmph; 90kmph in the outskirts; 110kmph on major roads; and 130kmph along the motorways. Speeding fines must be paid on the spot. Also be warned that the blood alcohol limit is 0.05% and tests are administered frequently by police officers. Fines range from 500 to 3000 HRK.

Traffic can get very congested along the highways and boarder crossings during the summer, especially during the weekends. The highways also run through a number of tunnels. It is advisable to wear sunglasses while driving during the summer.

Electricity in Croatia
Croatian electrical outlets supply 220 volts. This requires the standard 2-point plugs used across Europe. Unless, you come from a country that follows the same measure, it is best to carry a travelling adaptor to ensure all your appliances work properly.

Etiquette in Croatia
Croats are a warm and friendly people. They are very proud of their country, culture and food. However, be sure not to pry for recent war stories. This is still a very sensitive topic in Croatia.

Croatia is a Catholic country, and religion plays a major role in Croatian life. Family is also a very important institution in Croatian society. Many extended families live close together, if not in the same complex.

It is a norm to greet and engage shopkeepers while entering and exiting any commercial establishment. Most people speak English, but learning a few basic Croatian phrases goes a long way. Be sure to respect local beliefs and customs.

Public Hours in Croatia
Most shops work from 9 am to 8 pm on weekdays, and are open from 9 am to 3 pm on Saturdays. During peak tourist season (July-September) stores may be open longer and even on Sundays. Markets are generally open in the mornings, shutting down post lunch.

Safety in Croatia
In general, Croatia is a safe place to visit with low levels of crime. However, it is prudent to follow general travel safety rules: keep your valuables safe, do not travel alone in poorly lit neighborhoods and watch out for pickpockets in tourist areas, especially during festivals and beach parties.

Time Zone
Croatia follows GMT + 1 in winter and GMT + 2 in the summers.

Tipping in Croatia
As a service tax is included in the bill, tipping isn’t obligatory. However, when tipping for good service, the standard tip is around 10 percent at restaurants, and a rounding of the bill or leaving a few coins at cafes.

Toilets
Most restaurants, bars, and malls offer facilities for customers. Additionally, toilets can be found at service stations and mobile toilets are often available at or near toll stations and at highway rest stops.

Weather in Croatia
Croatia experiences two principle climate patterns – Continental within the country’s interior and Mediterranean along the coast.

Inland Croatia experiences a continental climate, with bright, hot summers and temperatures ranging from 20-30°C; and mild to cold winters with temperatures ranging from -5 to 10°C.

The Croatian coast and islands on the other hand enjoy Mediterranean weather, with long hot summers (temperatures are usually in the mid 30s) and mild, rainy winters. The coastal regions experience varied wind patterns throughout the year – the south-easterly Jugo in the autumn; and the Bura and the Maestral, a soothing summer wind.

Main Sights

Overview of the Main Croatian Sights

Zagreb, the capital of Croatia has amazing historical sights to see

Getting Around

Air Transportation
A guide to Croatian Airports

Boat and Ferries
Given the country’s long coastline, ferry services form a vital link in the country’s transportation network, linking the many islands to the mainland. Most ferries along the Adriatic are operated by a company called Jadrolinija (http://www.jadrolinija.hr). Service is year-round on most routes. Transporting cars can be expensive. A number of ferries also run from Italy to Croatia through the year; their frequency is higher during the summers.

Rail
Croatia’s railway network connects all the major inland cities; however, it does not run along the coastline, and popular coastal cities like Dubrovnik cannot be reached by train. You can opt for either the high-speed trains, known as tilting trains (these only run between the major cities) or the regular speed services. The rail system also connects Croatia with countries like Slovenia, Austria, Italy, Hungary, Germany, Bosnia-Herzegovina, and Serbia. Railway timetables and other details can be found at the Croatian Rail Website.

Car Rental
Rental cars are available in all major cities and at airports. It is recommended that you book a vehicle online to avail yourself of special offers and discounts. If you are driving to Dubrovnik, you’ll have to pass through Bosnia- Herzegovina. Have the necessary travel documents ready for the border police. Rental companies need to be informed if the car is going to be transported on a ferry.

Taxis
Taxis are widely available in all cities. They can be found outside airports, bus stations, hotels and at taxi stands around the cities. All taxis have an electronic meter. The meter displays a base rate when you commence your trip. This figure increases thereon till you reach the destination.

Buses
Buses are an economical and effective way to travel within Croatia. Tickets are reasonably priced and the buses themselves are comfortable. It is advisable to reserve bus tickets to popular coastal destinations during the summer. Tickets are available at the bus station (and on the bus itself for shorter routes). Seats are assigned during purchase of ticket. You can look up bus timetables at the Autobusni Kododvor website.

Trams
Zagreb’s tram network covers the entire city. You can buy a single ticket or a 24-hour ticket, which is more cost-effective if you will be using the tram more than once.

Health

Tourists traveling to Croatia are not required to take any specific vaccines. However, it is advisable to be immunized against Hepatitis A and typhoid. Tourists need to be wary of conditions like heat exhaustion and heat stroke during the summer. Be sure to stay well hydrated and use plenty of sunscreen.

Croatian medical facilities are of a high standard. Citizens of counties that have signed the Health Care Convention with Croatia receive free medical care. Other tourists are required to have medical insurance.

Lodging

Depending on your needs, you can choose from a number of accommodation options, including: hotels, hostels, villas, apartments, campsites and trailer parks. It is best to make hotel reservation in advance during the summer, as this is peak tourist season. On the other hand, a number of apartments are available to tourists. These are generally clean, comfortable and affordable.

Public Holidays in Croatia

1 January – New Year’s Day
6 January – Epiphany
8 April – Easter Sunday & 9 April- Easter Monday
1 May – Labor Day
7 June – Corpus Christi
22 June – Anti-Fascist Resistance Day
25 June – Statehood Day
5 August – Victory Day and National Thanksgiving Day
15 August – Assumption Day
8 October – Independence Day
1 November – All Saints’ Day
25-26 December – Christmas Holidays

Telephones in Croatia

Public telephones are easy to find in Croatia. These can be operated by using phone cards. Phone cards, of several denominations, are available across the country at newspaper stands and kiosks. You can make both local and international calls using these cards. In addition to phone booths, you can also use public phones at the post office.

Dialing Procedures
The international code for Croatia is + 385. For outgoing calls dial the code (00) and country code.

For calls from the USA or abroad to Croatia, dial the country code (+ 385), followed by the area code (the local area code is related to the area zip code), followed by the phone number. While phoning within Croatia, dial the area code and then the local phone number.

For cell phones: Croatia uses the GSM 900/1800 frequency. This means American phones are not compatible in the region. It is cheaper to buy a local SIM card in Croatia. There are a number of service providers offering economic tariff plans.

Useful Country Codes:
The country code for Croatia is + 385
USA and Canada is +1; UK +44

Emergency Numbers in Croatia
Emergency calls can be made to 112.
Other specific emergency numbers include: Ambulance: 94
Police: 92
In case of car trouble: 987

Returning to the US

Customs, VAT & Duty Free
All travelers, both foreign and domestic, are exempted from customs duty on non-commercial goods. Expensive, technical equipment, however, must be declared when entering Croatia.

If you are traveling with pets, it is essential to produce an International Certificate issued by an official veterinarian. The vaccinations need to be updated and administered at least 15 days before the travel period, but not earlier than six months from the stipulated timeframe.

You are entitled to a VAT refund for goods purchased in Croatia over 500 Kuna. Be sure to ask for a PDV-P form from the point of purchase. Be sure to complete the form and get it stamped. This should be verified by the Croatian Customs service when leaving the country. For further information, consult the Croatia Customs Administration website.

Remembering Princess Diana’s Death and Legacy

David Hill — Tue, 31 Aug 2010 14:34:53 +0000

It was on August 31, 1997, that a chauffeur-driven car crashed at high-speed in Paris, ending the life of Diana, Princess of Wales, and prompting a wave of public grief. The extent of that grief became clear over the ensuing days in London, as bouquets of flowers piled high on the streets, together with handwritten tributes from heartbroken admirers. When her funeral was held a week later, some businesses closed for the day, and hordes of people watched the event from whatever vantage point they could find, even if that meant crowding around the windows of TV stores. A large gathering occurred in London’s Hyde Park, where the event was broadcast live on huge screens, with people yelling at each other to sit down so that everyone could see.

If another royal had died, it’s hard to imagine that there would have been such a reaction. And this is a testament to the qualities which Diana brought to a monarchy that badly needed them: charisma, glamour, a skill in handling the media, and an ability to convey a sense of genuine caring. These were all the more remarkable since she appears to have been given so little preparation for her role, beginning as a 20-year-old bride in 1981, and so little support once she was in it.

Her popularity was, for a while, something that benefited all concerned. The media got great stories and photos. The public delighted in her glamour and her complex personality. She herself enjoyed fame for a while, both for its own sake and for the opportunity it gave her to highlight causes she cared about. And it was all good news for the monarchy, and for her husband and eldest son, both in line to be future kings. For all that anybody knew in the early eighties, Diana would just continue building up public support for herself and her fellow-royals, setting the stage for successful reigns for both Charles and William.

Of course, that’s not how it turned out. As Diana went through a very public separation and divorce and grew ever more bitter and depressed, her powerful public image started working in unexpected ways. And it continues to do so, leaving a complex legacy.

In a 1995 interview, after her separation from Charles was acknowledged, Diana said that she probably would not become queen, but would like to be “a queen of people’s hearts.” A veteran communicator by now, she must have been aware that this perfectly-formed soundbite was a direct provocation against both the present ruler and any woman Charles might eventually want to make his queen.

Once the divorce was finalized in 1996, the Palace agreed to let Diana be called “Diana, Princess of Wales,” an evocative accolade but one with no constitutional teeth, as she could no longer be a “Royal Highness.” While we’ll probably never know what backroom haggling led to that deal, it was clearly an attempt at damage limitation by the Palace, which had come to regard her as a loose cannon while recognizing that she had the public’s sympathy.

All the while, public opinion became more and more divided over whether she was exploited by the monarchy and the media, or whether she was the exploiter. That debate continued in the wake of her tragic death. All these years later, it’s perhaps a little easier to see it as a bit of both.

What does all this mean for the likely next two kings? The public image of Charles suffered massively from the acrimony with Diana, but William seems to have received none of the damage and all of the reflected glory. In a country where the monarchy remains a popular institution even when the individuals leading it are not, William is seen as embodying the best of both worlds. A dutiful scion of the House of Windsor, he is also an attractive figure like his mother, and has brought some of her charisma to his public duties. Exhibiting an independent spirit, during his early military career William repeatedly requested that he be involved in active service. But having been steered in a different direction by the Palace and the government, who were wary of letting him get into any real danger, he seems to have acquiesced.

For someone so young, William has suffered great sadness and learnt some tough lessons. He is apparently gifted with looks, intelligence, tact and skill. With all that going for him, he may grow to outshine both his parents.

Written by David Hill for EuropeUpClose.com

Italy From Bottom to Top: Saying Goodbye

Mattie Bamman — Mon, 30 Aug 2010 16:07:34 +0000

Day 59
I’ve never felt more a part of Italy, which makes for a sad goodbye. Spending so much time in its mountains (even shaping them with my own hands!) and all the people I’ve met over the last two months of travel—these are things I’ll never forget. Georgeta Perhald, Sommelier and Manager of PR for Rocca delle Macíe winery, spoke of how Italy changed her life, and how she could see it changing mine. “You cannot help it,” she said. “You stop thinking about what you put on the outside of your body, and begin thinking about what you put inside.”

Italy changes you. Witnessing such ancient traditions as the trulli, meeting smiling Italians who, as part of their culture, say hello and goodbye every time they enter and exit a store or café, walking among buffalo and tasting cheese only a few minutes old. The senses are heightened by the influx of carefully prepared dishes composed of carefully produced ingredients.

Suddenly, a 25-euro bistecca fiorentina seems more important than a new pair of sunglasses. The array of powerful flavors and aromas is so intoxicating that you forget to do what makes sense and begin to just do what you enjoy. You do it for no other reason than because you want to, as Armando, of Il Parma Delizie Alimentari, might say .

I’ve been able to watch the terrain change region by region, from the bottom to the top of Italy—from Puglia to Veneto—and I’ve seen a plethora of unique cuisines and landscapes. Every 30 miles brings a new Italy, with different traditions; different mountains, islands, or beaches; different wines made with different native grapes. Italians are proud of their regions, and even if one or two try to chase you off their property with a pitchfork , most will take the time to share some secrets. Massimo Criscio knows this, and shares his knowledge.

To know one region of Italy is not to know Italy. You must dig deeper. You must visit the small towns in the quieter regions. Then you will begin to see Italy as a whole.

I’m at that point in a trip, only two days from its end, when every bone in my body aches for extra time. I hold each breath of Italian air a moment longer, hoping to incorporate it into my body. I watch Kristin packing her backpack, carefully wrapping the bottle of ’98 Brunello di Montalcino so that it won’t break in transit.

Tomorrow we’ll catch a train to Naples, where we will spend two nights before boarding a plane for JFK International Airport. Direct flights run between Naples and New York City during the summer months, and Meridiana Airlines offers some of the best deals.

We’ll say goodbye to the friends we made at Italy Farm Stay and to Antonello Siragusa and his family, and then we’ll say goodbye to all of Italy. But all of the people I met—Italian, American, Romanian, German, etc.—all of their words and smiles will remain. Life is beautiful, and as Giuseppe Siragusa says ” Don’t make problems.”

I’d like to thank everyone who accompanied me on this journey. I’ll continue to publish articles on EuropeUpClose.com, so always feel free to contact me with questions in regard to your own travel plans. Until then, so long from Italy From Bottom to Top.

Written by and photos by Mattie Bamman for EuropeUpClose.com