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Luxury Cruise Lines Come to Europe

Many cruise lines have discovered the allure of Europe and have expanded their offerings to this historical part of the world. Here is our list of the best luxury cruise lines in the world.

Crystal Cruises
Crystal Cruises offers a gracious cruise experience with over-the-top shore excursions. Their restaurants serve menus featuring fresh ingredients, and their bar menus offer premium spirits.

Regent Seven Seas
This cruise line is in the process of revamping its ships and is also purchasing a new ship for delivery before 2012. They are also upgrading their land tours and will offer a “Tour Concierge” to help clients plan their own shore excursions.

Seabourn
Seabourn’s fleet has undergone extensive renovation, and there are more ships to come. The Odyssey is due to enter service for the 2009 season. All suites will feature granite baths with a separate tub and shower, and a flat screen entertainment center. One more ship will debut in 2010 and another in 2011.

Seadream Yacht Club
Seadream operates two 110 guest yachts that are running at almost full capacity. In spite of that, they are refurbishing both ships over the next few years and are planning to expand the fleet. Seadream Yacht Club offers a 5-star experience and an active agenda, for those who want it.

Silversea Cruises
With delivery expected in late 2009, the Silver Spirit will enhance Silversea’s fleet. The Silver Cloud and Silver Wind will be upgraded this winter and next spring respectively. Their Luxurious Prince Albert II expedition ship has staterooms and suites ranging from 180 to 600 square feet.

Cunard Line (pronounced Kew-naard)
The Queen Elizabeth will enter service in fall of 2011 to complement the new Queen Victoria and its flagship, Queen Mary II. The Cunard Line offers “Grill Class” service that includes butler service, a private lounge and even personal stationery.

Windstar Cruises
This specialized cruise line offers such amenities as luxury linens and mattresses, i-pod nanos, flat screened TVs and much more. They also offer a Signature Collection Series with noted guests and lecturers including wine-makers, artists and writers.

Queen Paris

Other cities have their wonders, but for me, Paris is queen. Dazzling, compelling, impressive and sometimes infuriating (don’t try to drive in that traffic!), the City of Light draws me back.

On our latest trip, John and I stayed in the Latin Quarter at Hotel St. Jacques (see my last posting, “Paris Again,” for more.) We explored the 5^th Arrondissement and made it a point to eat in nearby restaurants, but we went further afield too, walking or by bus. We’d never been in two of the city’s most famous museums, the Fine Arts Museum in the Petit Palais, and the Decorative Arts Museum in a wing of the Louvre, as they were under renovation on our previous trips. Of course we were bowled over by both.

Thousands of tourists go to the Louvre to see Venus and Mona, along with quite a few others, but not as many find the wing that holds the Decorative Arts Museum, which you enter from rue de Rivoli. It is well worth a visit to see the fabulous art and furnishings, from medieval to modern. There are tapestries, ceramics, glassware, toys, intricate clocks, stunning Art Nouveau and Art Deco pieces, and more. The sleek black-and-chrome museum cafe serves tasty food indoors or out.

The Petit Palais, on Ave. Winston Churchill across the street from the Grand Palais, was built for a 1900 exposition in classic mode dressed up with statuary and gilt. The light-filled interior shows off ornately painted ceilings and great art from antiquity to the 20^th century. It’s been called “a mini-Louvre without the crowds.” And, a nice plus, entrance is free.

It’s also free to see the changing art displayed on Pont des Arts, a pedestrian bridge over the Seine. There’s always a line-up of provocative art; this time it was photographs of Palestine, showing a different point of view from what we usually see in the news.

On all travels we look for bookstores, and Paris has a great many, some with books in English, used and new. We happily browsed through the stacks at Berkeley Books, San Francisco Books, and Abbey Books. Abbey, in an 18^th century building, has a marvelous vaulted ceiling stone cellar with floor-to-ceiling books. We couldn’t pass up Shakespeare & Co., directly across the river from Notre Dame cathedral. The warren of rooms in this famous shop, crammed with books of all kinds, is a great place to visit just for the atmosphere.

Sunday is the day to visit lively rue Mouffetard and the outdoor market at Place Monge. That’s when Parisians shop for fresh produce, cheeses, chickens, cherries, foie gras, flowers — and the market is always jammed. On one corner, a knife- and scissor-sharpener was hard at work, on another, a cluster of women pawed through boxes of shorts and sweaters, while the cheese man offered samples and vendors hawked their wares.

Another great street for people-watching is rue Buci, where we ate at L’Atlas, one of the sidewalk cafes, and chatted with an elderly woman (my French, poor as it is, was good enough for this) who said she has been coming to this cafe daily for 40 years. “Bonne journée,” and “santé,” she called as she left.

It is connections like this, even brief ones, John and I agreed over ice cream, that add luster to travel. Monuments and museums are wonderful, but every bit as satisfying are the moments you share with the people you meet along the way. Especially in Paris.

Book Now for Cheap Flights for Fall Travel

For a limited time, you can fly from any one of five British Airways US gateways to London for the same incredible price…$160* round-trip! Book by June 30, 2008 for travel this fall (September 4, 2008 - October 22, 2008.)

Fly from Baltimore, Chicago, Houston, Philadelphia, and Washington DC to London for only $160 RT*

*Prices do not include taxes, fees, and applicable fuel surcharges. Significant restrictions, including a Saturday night stay and a 7-day advance purchase apply. Fares are non-refundable. Terms and conditions also apply.

For more information, contact your travel agent or go to British Airways.

Cruise and Save on Airfare to Europe

AMA Waterways is offering highly discounted airfare in conjunction with European river cruises on select cruises this winter.

These low-priced air tickets are available for the Nov. 12 Amsterdam-to-Paris and Blue Danube Discovery itineraries, as well as Christmas Time Cruises departing Nov. 19, Nov. 22 and Nov. 27, and Christmas Wonderland departures on Nov. 22 and Nov. 26.

The $99-per-person airfare is from New York (Zone 1) and does not include air taxes. Air fare is $149 from Zone 2 and $199 from Zone 3 and Canada. You cannot combine this offer with other promotions and it is valid on new bookings only.

The Amsterdam-to-Paris itinerary includes a seven-night cruise to Trier, Germany, along the Rhine, Main and Mosel rivers, followed by a three-night stay in Paris. Visit some of Europe’s most fascinating cities as you sail from Amsterdam to Germany’s fashion center, Düsseldorf. Explore splendid Cologne with its magnificent Dome and admire the picturesque Rhine castles on your way to bustling Frankfurt and medieval Heidelberg. Continue to Koblenz and cruise the beautiful Mosel River Valley to charming Cochem and Bernkastel. Disembark in Trier, Germany’s oldest town, and tour Luxembourg before your finale in Paris.

The Blue Danube Discovery program begins with two nights in Budapest, followed by a seven-night Danube cruise to Nuremburg and a three-night stay in Prague. From Budapest, cruise through the stunning cultural cities of Vienna, Bratislava, Passau and Regensburg. Along the way, visit magnificent cathedrals and baroque abbeys. Treat yourself to fine cuisine and the great wines of the region. Take an optional excursion to Salzburg and celebrate the heritage of Mozart, one of the world’s greatest composers.

The 11-day Christmas Time Cruise features two nights in Prague before sailing from Nuremberg to Budapest. Celebrate the magic of the wonderful winter season with a fascinating trip through the beauty and history of the Danube, Europe’s second largest river. Journey from Nuremberg on the Main-Danube Canal across the Continental Divide through many of the Danube’s great cities. Along the way visit charming towns where so many Christmas traditions started and marvel at beautiful vistas of enchanting Bavaria and the charming Wachau Valley. On select dates, shop at Christmas markets or celebrate the holiday season with the locals.

The 12-day Christmas Wonderland cruise includes three nights in Paris before sailing from Trier to Amsterdam. Along the way, visit fascinating Christmas Markets. Cruise from Trier, Germany’s oldest town, through the meandering Mosel River Valley to beautiful Bernkastel and Cochem. In Koblenz, enter the Rhine River with its many breathtaking castles and sail upriver to experience the Christmas traditions in medieval Heidelberg as well as in modern Frankfurt. Continue your cruise to Cologne, world famous for its magnificent Dome, and to Düsseldorf, Germany’s fashion center. Celebrate the grand finale of your winter exploration in Amsterdam, a modern city with a rich and fascinating history.

For more information, Call your travel agent or visit AMA Waterways.

Europe Rail Sale

Rail Europe is offering some great deals for travelers to Europe this summer. Here is the lowdown:

Thalys Summer Special

Save 50% on Lybris fares on 1st class and 2nd class on all Thalys routes.
Thalys links Paris to Amsterdam and Brussels. There are 18 Thalys trains per day that take you from Paris to Brussels in under 90 minutes. Sale prices are valid 5/7/08 through 9/17/08 for Travel from 5/15/08 through 9/30/08

Anywhere Anytime France

Anywhere Anytime France is a pre-paid electronic ticketing system that enables you to travel throughout France with ease. From the ticket price, to the simplicity of scheduling a trip, Anywhere Anytime France provides unbeatable value and flexibility.

Travel in 1st Class anywhere in France for the lowest price possible with flexibility and ease. Trips can be booked three months in advance or an hour before your train departure through your online account. The program also includes many discounts on cruises, Paris attractions, shopping and lots more.

You pay one flat fee with no hidden costs. The first trip costs $199.00. Each e-ticket bought within the first Anywhere Anytime France purchase is $50 per trip. Additional trips, after the initial Anywhere Anytime France purchase, will cost $70 per trip.

Bonus

Whether you’re traveling through Europe alone or with a group – buy a railpass now and receive a 25% credit towards your next purchase. Buy a railpass (between 4/24/2008 – 7/15/2008) and you will get a credit for 25% of the value of that railpass. You can apply this credit to your next rail purchase made by 12/15/2008. Your second purchase using your credit must be at least twice the value of that credit.

For more information, contact your travel agent or RailEurope

Paris Again

You’ve been to the Louvre and Notre Dame Cathedral, gazed up at the Eiffel Tower and the Arch of Triumph, taken a sightseeing cruise on the Seine River. Now you get to discover the lesser-known treasures of Paris — which is what we did on our latest visit to this fabulous city. John and I checked out a few old favorites and looked up places we’d never seen. We did our usual endless walking, poking into covered passageways and tiny shops, and when we tired of that we rode the bus.

Everybody loves the Metro subway system, and it’s great for covering distances fast and efficiently, but the city buses give us tours as good as expensive sightseeing buses (without the guide,) a look at the street life, and easy rides to wherever we want to go. Tickets, 1.60 euros, are good on the Metro too.

John and I like to stay in the Latin Quarter, on the Seine’s Left Bank, so we checked in at Hotel St. Jacques, on rue des Ecoles. Rooms cost under 150 euros a night, the location is central, the beds are comfortable, and we had views of Notre Dame and the Pantheon from our windows and tiny balcony. Sometimes rowdy youths made the streets noisy at night — this is a university district, has been since the Middle Ages — so the upper floors (5 and 6) are best for quiet.

If we wanted to spend a bit more, we might stay at Hotel Parc Saint-Séverin, on a small street next to the Saint Severin church. Its uppermost rooms have terraces with views of the church and Paris rooftops. The Hotels Grands Ecoles, also in the 5^th arrondisement, is very special, with its large, flower-filled courtyard. It is so popular they don’t take reservations more than three months in advance. We peeked in Hotel du Levant, which offers rooms from 100 to 160 euros for two, and that includes a buffet breakfast. It looks pleasant, a good value.

We bought flowers from the shop across our street and set them on the window ledge in a wine bottle (our make-it-homey ritual) and headed out to the Quai Branly Museum. Visitors to this modern museum near the Eiffel Tower have strong opinions, from “architectural disaster” to “beautifully done.” I think it’s both. The big, blocky building seems unwieldy and out of place, the traffic flow poorly designed, the audioguide less than helpful. But don’t let that keep you away. The Quai Branly’s collection of art and objects from Oceania, Asia and Africa is outstanding, worth several visits to see it all. Elaborate masks and costumes from New Guinea, huge wooden drums, eery carved figures, gorgeous capes and headdresses —it’s all fabulous.

Paris’ museum restaurants have become known for their good food, and the Quai Branly’s is no exception. Our lunch was one of the best of the trip (I’d love to have the recipe for Asiatic Salad, with its crispy noodles in a light lemongrass sauce), and the service on a busy day was fast and friendly. In fact, service in every restaurant was fine. I’m sure the stereotypical snooty French waiter exists, but we have yet to encounter one.

In sharp contrast to the Branly, the Jacquemart-André Museum, near the lovely Parc Monceau, is set in a grand 19^th century mansion and filled with Italian and French art from the Middle Ages and Renaissance. Listening to the excellent (and free) audioguide, we went from room to room admiring the Tiepolo fresco, the works by Rembrandt and Van Dyck, the curved double staircase and painted ceilings. When we went in search of lunch, only the long waiting line kept us from the museum café, said to be one of the most beautiful tearooms in Paris. Instead, we sat at an outdoor table (as most of Paris was doing on this sunny day) at Ma Bourgogne, on busy Boulevard Haussmann.

Our post-meal stroll took us to the oldest wine shop in Paris, Caves Auges. You might expect a romantic atmosphere, but these chilly rooms are all business, with hundreds of cases of wine bottles stacked high. We’ll look for cozy tastings elsewhere.

Because we wanted to become more familiar with our own neighborhood, the 5^th, we had most meals at nearby restaurants — small places you aren’t likely to find in the Michelin Guide. Les Fêtes Galantes, near the Pantheon, is tiny, with a festive, whimsical atmosphere — bras (yes, women’s underwear) tacked to one wall, photos of jazz musicians, memorabilia — and tasty meals at reasonable prices. A block or so from there, the ChantAirelle, popular with local folk, offers hearty country food typical of France’s Auvergne region, served indoors or in a courtyard in back.

As a break from French cooking, we tried a Thai/Vietnamese restaurant, La Rose de Sommerard and gave it mixed reviews. The soggy fish in a bowl of coconut milk was inedible, but the fried rice was fine, and dishes at other tables looked great. The message: know what you are ordering. The menu showed much variety, and the cost was low.

Our biggest splurge was in the 7^th arrondisement, close to the Eiffel Tower. Les Fables de la Fontaine, owned by the noted chef Christian Constant, is truly exceptional. We sat at an outdoor table and feasted on gazpacho with melon, an elegant salad, and grilled cod on pasta. Divine, if pricier than our usual bistro meals. The sky was darkening when we strolled from the restaurant to join the crowds milling happily around the lighted Eiffel Tower, which looked like an immense golden jewel. It’s a festive scene, not to be missed.

Less visited by tourists is the Paris Mosque, an oasis of calm near the Jardins des Plantes, walking distance from our hotel. A courtyard with flowers and splashing fountains and walls tiled in geometric patterns offer a restful space. Jardins des Plantes is a respite, too, with its many paths and a rose garden.

Les Caves Augé
116 Blvd Haussmann
75008 Paris

Restaurant Les fêtes galantes
17, rue de l’école Polytechnique
75005 Paris

La Rose de Sommerard
16, Rue Du Sommerard
75005 Paris

Les Fables de la Fontaine
131 Rue St Dominique
75007 Paris
Tel: 0144183755

Next: We’ll always have Paris

Au Revoir Provence

Final episode of Linda and Dave Beach’s story of their first trip to Provence:

The next morning we picked up brioches at Henri’s and went to our friends Suzanne and Jim’s for breakfast. We returned to Bonnieux for the end of the Friday market. This market is one of the smallest in the area, but the vendors were good. Dave purchased some goat cheese and the seller had to shake his hand because Dave was the only American he has met that actually wanted the moldy old cheese! We also purchased honey and a boneless leg of Spring lamb which we cooked for dinner that night. It was delicious! Just outside of the market was a Pizza truck and we bought a few slices for our lunch. They are all made to order and there is even a wood-burning oven inside of the truck. Every market seems to have pizza trucks nearby and I definitely recommend trying a pizza from one.

That afternoon it started raining, but we set off to explore Lourmarin, Cucuron and Ansouis. Lourmarin is beautiful even when it is raining and mom especially loved the little town of Cucuron with its large pond and gateway leading into the walled village. We tasted and bought wine at the Cave des Vignerons de Cucuron, a cooperative wine sale shop.

One of the larger markets in the area is the Saturday market in Apt which you don’t want to miss and fortunately the weather cooperated for us with sunny skies and our warmest day. There are vendors everywhere in the old town, on all of the side streets and in the town center. Parking on market day is difficult, so Suzanne and Jim, along with one of her aunts from Marseille, met us at our house and led us to a coveted parking spot near the school by the Gendarmerie.

It was our last day so unfortunately, we couldn’t stock up on the abundant cheese, fish and vegetables. We did however, buy lavender sachets and a small picture painted with the ocher from Roussillon. (Expensive, but it will bring back memories.) After the market we went to the nearby tiny village of Saignon. Henri’s daughter Christine has a Salon de The here called Chez Christine. She appears to have inherited her father’s talent for making pastries. Saignon is quaint and there is a church on the top which is not open to the public but is good for photographing. We returned to Bonnieux to finally explore our town – the Old Church, the New Church and all along the outer wall just down from our house.

To celebrate a wonderful week in Provence we had our last dinner at L’Arome in Bonnieux. This restaurant, like Le Fournil is built into a hillside. But we found the ambiance, food and service to be much better here than at Le Fournil. We also had an earlier reservation so we were seated before the rush.

The next morning we had café au lait and pastries and said goodbye to Henri and his wife Maria, then drove mom and dad to Aix-en-Provence where they would spend the night before flying home the next day. Dave and I continued on to Avignon. We had a little bit of extra time so we drove around this beautiful walled city, which we would love to visit on our next trip. We then returned our car and boarded the TGV for Paris. Au Revoir Provence!

Exploring Provence

Part three of the four-part story of Linda and Dave Beach’s trip to Provence:

First stop on day two was Roussillon, a colorful village known for its ocher quarry which was once used to color paints. Where many of the buildings in other villages are generally stone grey, the buildings in this town are all painted one of the many shades of ocher. There is a trail that you can take through the ocher quarry which is definitely worth it. It is called Le Sentier des Ocres and starts near the tourist office. Truly beautiful!

On the road to Gordes we stopped at a small winery called Domaine de Tara. We tasted about 8 types of wine with the wine maker and purchased several of them. The winemaker has a cousin who is a wine distributor in New York City and several of these wines can be found at restaurants there. Gordes is a wealthy hill town with interesting rock walls. Okay, so all of the towns have rock walls, but they seemed to be more prevalent here and there are pointed rocks stacked on top.

We continued on to the Abbaye de Senanque a few miles away at the bottom of the hill with lavender fields in front. This is a Romanesque abbey of Cistercian Monks which is still in use. You can tour the abbey, but we just spent time browsing the gift shop and walking around the grounds.

That night was warm enough for wine and cheese on our rooftop terrace. Dinner was at Le Fournil which is built into a cave. Our reservation was at 8:00, which is apparently the time that everyone dines in Bonnieux. Because everyone was seated at once, service was slow – a half an hour just to get an aperitif! mom and I had fish dishes, while Dave (now feeling better) and dad were more adventurous with goat and rabbit, as well as bull. The food was generally good.

Thursday is one of the two market days for the slightly larger, non-hill town of L’Isle sur la Sorgue. This town is located along the Sorgue River and would probably be beautiful on a warm sunny day with its outdoor cafés along the river. But when we were there, it was cold and threatening rain. The market was still fun and we bought small grinders filled with herbs de Provence and of course some cheese. This town is known for its antique stores which were, unfortunately, not open at the time of day that we were there. Their Sunday market is a “must do” for antique shopping. We stopped at the Boucherie in Bonnieux and picked up some pre-made sauté de veau for dinner which was fantastique!

Provence Markets

Mary Magdalene’s Bones, Old Stones, and “Chocolat”

For eight centuries, pilgrims have come to the great basilica in Vezelay to be blessed on their long journey to Santiago de Compostela in Spain, a pilgrimage that was, and is today, a significant spiritual journey. The Basilica Saint Mary Magdalene still awes visitors like John and me. A masterpiece of Romanesque architecture of the Middle Ages, it was famous in the 12th century for its relics of Mary Magdalene, which drew crowds of worshipers (and conveniently boosted the regional economy, as they all had to be housed and fed.)

Unfortunately for local merchants, other relics of the saint were found in Provence, and Vezelay’s popularity declined. Religious wars and the French revolution battered the church, but it was saved from ruin in the 19th century by the architect Viollet-le-Duc, and restored to the impressive state you see today.

In the silent, underground crypt, beneath a low vaulted ceiling, we gazed upon an elaborate gold-and-glass reliquary containing what appeared to be a small, age-browned bone — the last of Vezelay’s Mary Magdalene relics.

”Ís it really hers?”‘ I asked a Frenchwoman.
She shrugged.”Perhaps. Or maybe,” she added with a wicked laugh, “‘a chicken bone?”

Whatever your beliefs, the basilica and the medieval village (pop. 492), which extends along a ridge above green fields, are well worth a visit. The tourist office on the main street has a map of walking tours and advice on what to see and where to shop, eat and stay. John and I were happy with our hotel, La Poste et Lion dÓr, set at the bottom of the cobbled street leading up to the church. Most of its 37 rooms are under 100 euros per night for 2 people. Ours was spacious and comfortable, with casement windows overlooking the old stone houses, and a big bathtub, very welcome after hours of traipsing hard streets, often in the rain (unusual weather for springtime here, we were told.)

The hotel staff was friendly and helpful, the restaurant excellent. My trout almandine was perfectly cooked and delicious. A good restaurant choice for more casual meals is Dents Creuse, offering pizzas, chicken, salads and more. In the village of St. Pere, down the road from Vezelay on the Cure River, you could try for a reservation at L’Esperance, noted for its pricey haute cuisine — up to 150 euros for a 6-course meal. We opted to skip that spot and visit the lovely church instead and admire its Gothic arches.

In our little Ford Fiesta we continued on to Semur-en-Auxois, a pretty town 45 minutes from Vezelay. Following the walking tour map we picked up at the tourist information office, we strolled the peaceful medieval streets, crossed the bridges over the Armancon River, and ducked out of the rain into the beautiful church. Dating from the 13th century, its vaulted ceiling is 65 feet high. Always on the lookout for places off the beaten path, we were pleased to find a small bar and cafe in Semur, the St. Vernier, where we ate well, drank good local wine, and met the friendly regulars.

Bidding au revoir to the guys at the bar, we headed into the countryside to Fontenay Abbey. The large complex of buildings, bordering a forest of beech and ash trees, began in the 1100s. Restored, the abbey is a U.N. World Heritage Site providing a glimpse of life in a medieval monastery. The Cistercian monks had gardens, a bakery, cloisters, a church, and even mined iron ore.

For something different, even further off the usual tourist route, we drove into the Morvan, south of Vezelay. This large regional park, in the granite heart of Burgundy, has lakes, streams, wildlife, villages, and miles of trails winding through forests. We’d planned to hike, bicycle and maybe even kayak, but not in the rain, so we hit some highlights. We tracked down an immense dolmen (a prehistoric tomb), Dolmen de Chevresse, in mossy green woods outside St. Brisson. You can’t get much further off the trodden paths than this. The multi-ton stones stand isolated among the oaks and alders, as they have for thousands of years. How was the dolmen made? No one really knows.

We picnicked by a lake where cranes soared over still water and frogs croaked in the rushes; found the ancient, moss-covered sarcophagi of Merovingian kings; and best of all spotted a great chocolate shop on the church square in the village of Quarre’ les Tombes.

We didn’t find chocolate in Flavigny-sur-Ozerain, the quaint old village where the movie “Chocolat”was filmed. However, it’s known for its anise-flavored candy, as well as a museum of textiles, wine, and a fine restaurant, Le Relais de Flavigny. They’ve all been recommended, but I can speak only of the candy, which is nice but, well, what can I say, it’s not chocolate.

More Information: The Yonne

Exploring Provence for the First Time: Day One

Follow Linda and Dave Beach’s story about their first trip to Provence:

On Monday we drove to pick up my parents at the Marseille Airport. We had planned to explore the coast near Marseille that day, but since Dave wasn’t feeling well and Mom and Dad were jetlagging, we headed back up to Bonnieux.

We also found out that my parents’ cat had knocked a flower pot off of a counter onto my dad’s toe the night before they flew over. He lost the toenail and had a very sore toe which was not a good thing to have for walking the hill towns of the Luberon! But he persevered and only whined on occasion. We stayed in and cooked chicken for dinner since Dave’s stomach was not up to dining out. If you rent a house and plan to cook, be sure to get the temperature conversion from Fahrenheit to Celsius as their ovens only have the temps in Celsius. We actually cooked several meals in and enjoyed having this option.

Every morning we went down the street to the famous Henri Tomas’ Patisserie. We were told by Christine McConnell to say hello to him from her and that we were staying in her house. He must like her because he treated us exceptionally well! We had breakfast and/or picked up goodies every day…except Tuesday which is the only day he is closed. He is quite a character – animated and friendly! He thought that my father looked like Michael Caine and said “Bonjour Monsier Caine” when he came in. Henri speaks mostly French, but with a few charades he is easily understood. He also makes wonderful pastries! My favorite was an almond brioche with bits of almond praline. Dad’s was a raisin brioche and Dave and Mom liked them all.

Our first day of exploring took us to the nearby village of Lacoste, where Dave was sure that he would find shops full of shirts with alligators on them, but of course that wasn’t the case. Streets here are even more narrow than in Bonnieux and we actually stopped the car at one point and walked ahead to see if we could get through without getting stuck! (A local Frenchman adamantly informed us that “c’est possible”.) This village has a castle that was formerly owned by the Marquis de Sade, from whom the word “sadism” was derived. It is now owned by Pierre Cardin and is not open to the public, but it dominates the skyline of the small village. We always meant to come back and walk around the town, but never found the time.

We then went on to Menerbes where we had lunch at La Gaboulet which was recommended in an article from Slowtrav. The best of the entrees was Dave’s cod with aioli. We walked around the village after lunch enjoying the views. Lots of pictures… Hoping to taste some wine, on the way back we stopped at Chateau L’Issolette which was recommended by friends. They were closed, but just down the road we found the owners of Chateau de Mille out tending a horse. After being nearly chewed up by their watch dog (yes, there was a sign that warned us of it), we were able to purchase several bottles which were quite good.

We did have the dreaded “mistral” on that first day. It is called a mistral when the wind blows strongly from the northwest. Although it is typically sunny during the mistral, it is also cold! The next day, however, the mistral was gone and it was sunny and warm.

Next, we visit beautiful Rousillion.