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Where to Stay in Madrid: Editor’s Picks

Mattie Bamman — Mon, 21 May 2012 14:18:34 +0000

Madrid, the capital of and largest city in Spain, offers travelers a myriad of hotel options when choosing where to stay. Organized by star rankings, our hotel recommendations are handpicked from five-star hotels to budget hotels and B&Bs. We chose hotels that are close to the most important sights and have given special attention to hotels offering modern amenities, such as high speed WiFi. Note that few hotels include breakfast in the room price in Madrid. Here are our hotel recommendations to help you choose where to stay in Madrid.

5-Star Hotels in Madrid

The Westin Palace

Centrally located near the Prado Museum, the building of this Starwood hotel was commissioned by King Alfonso XIII in 1912, and it seamlessly integrates modern conveniences with Old World charm. The building is crowned with a massive glass dome, and the 467 rooms and suites feature antique furniture, a comfortable Westin Heavenly Bed®, marble floors, and WiFi (at a charge). Amenities include a fitness center, business center, two restaurants, The Palace Bar, and one café. The staff is knowledgeable and friendly. It is a true 5-star hotel by international standards.
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Melia Madrid Princesa

Located near Madrid’s business center and just a ten-minute walk from Plaza España, this Meliá hotel is good for business or recreational travelers. Modern and chic, the rooms in this hotel were renovated in 2008, and each comes with individually controlled heating and A/C, satellite TV, internet (at a charge), a nightlight for reading, a hairdryer, a mini bar, and a safe. For true VIP treatment, stay in The Level; a portion of the hotel with elevated services, such as an independent reception and private breakfast room. The hotel’s amenities include a gym, swimming pool, spa (for a charge), business center, and UNO by Meliá Madrid Princesa. Inside Uno by Meliá Madrid Princesa guests will find a bar with a snack menu and “A la Carte” restaurant, which features Mediterranean cuisine.
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4-Star Hotels in Madrid

Hotel Atlantico

Located in a gorgeous building in the heart of the city on Gran Via, this hotel features Victorian décor, and the staff is professional and friendly. All rooms come with free internet (either WiFi or high speed internet connection), central heating, individually controlled A/C, a mini bar, a hairdryer, a bathrobe, slippers, and a safe. There are two cafes, one of which is on the 9^th floor, supplying excellent views of Madrid. Guests especially sensitive to noise should request a room away from Gran Via or on the higher floors.
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Hotel Preciados

This hotel offers free mini bar beverages (soft drinks) and free WiFi, and it is centrally located on a great shopping street, the Calle Precaidos. The hotel is within walking distance of most major sights, such as the Plaza Mayor and Prado Museum, and it is ideal for travelers visiting Madrid for a short period. All rooms come with individualized heating and A/C, a safe, plasma TV, hairdryer, and soundproof windows. Rooms are clean and functional, featuring modern décor. Amenities include an onsite restaurant, 24-hour reception, and laundry service.
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Me Madrid Reina Victoria
This Meliá hotel shows off its uber-modern style, and it has a great location. Every room features a large plasma TV, free WiFi, fine linen sheets, a feather-top mattress, and bathroom products by Avena. To get the most luxurious experience, stay in the hotel’s premium suites; called The Level, these rooms each feature an in-room spa and a separate living area. Hotel amenities include the ME Restaurant & Lounge, a rooftop bar with panoramic views, a 24-hour gym, and a spa. The staff is professional and welcoming. This hotel is ideal for travelers looking for rooms decorated in high style. Budget travelers should be aware that there are less expensive options in the same area.
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3-Star Hotels in Madrid

Hotel Regina

After your stay, you may believe this hotel deserves four rather than three stars. Located right next to Puerta del Sol square, it provides excellent service and clean rooms for a good value . The hotel was built in 1918 and was renovated as recently as 2010. Its 180 rooms each feature free WiFi, satellite TV, a safe, and a hairdryer, and the staff is friendly and professional. Amenities include an onsite restaurant.
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Ganivet Hotel

Almost every important tourist sight in Madrid is within walking distance of this budget-friendly hotel. It is very close to the Plaza Mayor and the Puerta de Toledo metro is just 150 meters from the hotel. Each of the 146 rooms comes with individualized A/C, satellite TV, a safe, and a hairdryer. The contemporary decorated rooms are somewhat small but functional and very clean. WiFi is free throughout the hotel, but patchy in some rooms. Amenities include an onsite bar and restaurant. Ask for a room with a balcony. If particularly sensitive to noise, we recommend staying on a higher floor.
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Hotel Suites Viena

Despite the name, the Hotel Suites Viena is n the center of Madrid, near the Plaza España metro stop and the Templo de Debod. It is located in the Arguelles business area around Gran Via, Princesa, Ferraz and Paseo Rosales streets. Each of the hotel’s 57 suites includes a kitchen, A/C, mini bar, free WiFi (sometimes patchy), satellite TV and a safe. The rooms are modern and functional but nothing fancy. This is a great option if you are staying for a few days and want to cook meals in. The hotel offers a buffet breakfast (for a charge), parking, and laundry service, and the staff is very hospitable. Smoking is permitted in certain areas, but pets are not allowed.
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Budget Hotels in Madrid

Hostal El Pilar

This hotel has one of the best locations in Madrid, positioned just a minute’s walk from Puerta del Sol. This “hostel” does not offer dorm-style rooms, and each of its 38 single and double rooms has a full bathroom, television, high-speed internet and free WiFi (sometimes patchy), a safe, and heating and A/C. For your convenience there is an excursion desk, vending machines and luggage storage. The hostel is decorated in a homey, traditional style. The family that runs the hotel is very friendly. Because of its location, the hotel is sometimes noisy.
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Hostal Santo Domingo

This hotel is located in the middle of the city near the Callao metro stop, giving travelers quick access to Madrid’s shopping, nightlife, and sights. This “hostel” does not have dorm rooms; it provides single occupancy rooms and doubles (some come with Jacuzzis). A family-friendly hotel, it features rooms with free WiFi, satellite TV, and heating and A/C for a great value. The décor is minimalist and stylish in a funky way. The hotel is very clean, and the staff is well trained and capable of helping you get the most out of Madrid. Note that some rooms are on the small side.
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Written by Mattie Bamman for EuropeUpClose.com

Up Close Picture of the Week: The Krimml Waterfalls near Salzburg, Austria

Terri Fogarty — Sat, 19 May 2012 15:23:48 +0000

Salzburg is a small city with lots to see and do. Great food, impeccable lodging and easy to use transportation. The Krimmler Waterfalls is located just outside the city and is one of our Eight Sight-Seeing Wonders near Salzburg .

The Krimml Waterfall just outside of Salzburg

Written by Terri Fogarty for EuropeUpClose.com

Real Madrid Stadium and Tour

Michael Orr — Fri, 18 May 2012 15:07:39 +0000

Real Madrid is arguably the most famous football club in the world. With nine European Cups and thirty-one domestic championships, the club is among the most decorated in Europe. At its 85,000-seat ground, the Estadio Santiago Bernabéu, Madrid have an entire museum devoted to the awards, trophies and heroes of the club.

Real Madrid Stadium

Given the dramatic history associated with the club, particularly from the 1950s onward (Real Madrid won the European Cup five consecutive times from 1955-60), one centralized location for the collected physical items of the club’s past is quite a treat. For €16, visitors can take a self-guided tour of the stadium that begins in the massive museum.

The museum begins with a general approach to the club’s history as uniforms, shoes, balls and two-dimensional items like tickets, programs and rulebooks allow visitors to view the club’s story by era. Other sports are also showcased in the first display as basketball, handball, volleyball and other sports have jerseys and trophies to peruse.

Trophies Displayed at the Madrid Real

Moving inward, the museum highlights trophies won in lesser tournaments, often regional competitions, over the century of play. Uniforms are displayed on mannequins to denote some of the most famous non-Madrid players to have visited the Bernabéu since its construction in 1947. The club highlights the players who have come from all over the world to play for Madrid, as well, in a display cleverly entitled Campeónes del Mundo (World Champions).

Continuing deeper into the museum, every player to have ever appeared for Madrid is pictured on a massive hallway of photographs. Next comes the largest trophy room with all nine European Cups together in one large case. Surrounding the most impressive part of the museum are individual exhibit cases with uniforms from both teams in each of the nine Cup-winning games as well as other memorabilia from those most famous of days. Before exiting the museum, fans and visitors alike can have their picture taken with the club’s most recent Copa del Rey (King’s Cup – Spain’s domestic tournament).

Championship Memorabilia at Madrid Real

Touring the stadium itself, a five-tiered, fully enclosed ground, is just as fun as the museum. Vantage points start at the highest points in the stadium and lead eventually to a seat on the bench. Views are accessible on three of the four sides of the stadium and at four of five levels, giving a more complete perspective of the famous ground than would be possible even attending a game. After winding toward the lowest level, the tour allows for a view from the pitch. After enjoying the comfortable seats on the bench, visitors descend into the players’ tunnel and finally into the spartan visitors’ locker room.

While many stadia in the world provide tours, very few offer the level of intimacy allowed at Real Madrid. For one of the world’s most famous clubs to provide such access is a testament to their greatness.

Uniforms Displayed at the Real Madrid

Tours of the stadium are available every day of the year (except Christmas and New Years Days) from 10:30am-6:30pm and until five hours before a match on game days. The stadium has its own metro stop (Santiago Bernabéu), which is accessed via Line 10.

Real Madrid’s local rival, Atlético Madrid, also has a museum and stadium tour. While not nearly as extensive, Atlético offers historic uniforms, trophies, photographs and more. The museum is open Tuesday-Sunday 11:00am-7:00pm at a cost of €6. Guided tours of the Estadio Vicente Calderón operate several times each day at an additional cost of €10. The stadium is easily accessible via the Pirámides metro stop on Line 5.

Written by and Photos by Michael Orr for EuropeUpClose.com

Whirling With the Dervishes in Capadocia, Turkey

Guest Contributor — Thu, 17 May 2012 14:05:43 +0000

Cappadocia was growing quiet when I arrive at the Mevlevi Order’s ritual hall to see the Whirling Dervishes. The sun is setting and the shadows of the Fairy Chimney rock columns were blending together seamlessly across Goreme’s dusty streets. A man in a flowing robe appears from behind an open door and beckons me inside. I follow him down a long, curved corridor to the samahane’s inner sanctum where I sit and wait for the ceremony to begin.

Whirling Dervish Spinning

Soon, the lights grow dim and another disciple of the great 13^th century Persian poet and theologian, Rumi, walks to the center of the circular hall. In the West, he’s known as a Whirling Dervish but to the Mevlevi community the sheikh is a semazes. His clothing symbolizes the demise of his ego; a long, black hirka robe representing its death shroud and an elongated, camel-felt hat called a kûlah or sikke, its tombstone. He’s carrying a red sheepskin pelt that he spreads out on the floor to kneel upon. Opening his hands wide and turning his face towards the sky, he begins to sing the ritual’s initial blessing, called a naat. The silence in the room is broken with its haunting and unfamiliar words.

A comfortable feeling of energy palpitates inside me as the Sema ceremony begins. Off to the side, twelve semazes are playing instruments from another time. Music floats into the air and is carried away to join with the energy force of which I am now a part. My heart pulses in time with the soft, steady drumbeat and my thoughts dissolve into thin air along with notes plucked from stringed instruments. But it’s the shrill, lonely, lilting call of a reed flute, or ney, that I connect with most.

Whirling Dervish Ceremony

The second portion of the ritual, the Devr-I Veled, is about to begin.

Thirteen Whirling Dervishes have lined up along the railing. One-by-one, they approach the sheikh to exchange bows in acknowledgement of the divine breath shared by all. They continue on, circling the stage three times before finally resuming their places at the railing and bowing once more, in unison, to the sheikh. They drop to their knees, bending low at the waist and touching their foreheads to the floor in an act of humble submission.

Slap! They strike their open hands hard against the wooden platform. The noise reverberates loudly through the chamber, evoking the Day of Resurrection and calling the semazes to awaken and be.

The semazes stand to remove their black robes, revealing brilliant white, floor-length gowns underneath. This act of disrobing marks the instant their egos die and their spirits are liberated from the earthly realm. They can now move onto the centerpiece of the ritual.

Colorful Whirling Dervishes

The Four Selams

The semazes cross their arms over their chests and, after another bow to the sheikh; they take two steps forward and slowly begin to turn. Their voluminous skirts lift off the floor as their hands leave their chests, rising past the top of their cone-shaped hats and opening up into an embrace of the heavens. With the right foot always connecting with the floor, the left foot propels them forward, spinning them in one fluid movement around the platform. As their speed gradually increases their gowns flatten out into a wave that floats weightlessly around their bodies. Their right hand, with palm turned up, remains high in the air as their left descends to their waists with the palm turned down towards the Earth. Their heads relax to the right as the meditation deepens.

To believers, this ritual channels heaven’s spiritual force. The revolution of electrons, protons, and neutrons in atoms constitutes the basic structure of everything in the universe and the semazes mimic this phenomenon, acting as conduits to transfer the same energy from heaven to Earth through their spinning meditative practice. The sheikh moves to the center of the stage and becomes the fixed point from which the semazes rotate.

Spinning…

The first selam, a recognition of truth through knowledge, begins.

Spinning… I feel the energy in the room expanding.

The second selam expresses the rapture of witnessing the splendor of His creation and our collective existence within it.

Spinning… My mind is adrift with the sensations moving through the room.

The third selam represents complete submission and communion with God through the transformation of rapture into love. The sacrifice of mind and self to love.

Spinning… My heart and mind relax.

The sheikh enters the dance with the semazes as they move into the fourth and final selam. Altogether, they resemble the planets rotating around the sun, endlessly turning as they accept their destiny and return to their task in creation.

Spinning…spinning…spinning…

It’s a tranquil transition. The semazes have received peace in their hearts through their connection with the divine.

Spinning…spinning…

Their meditation continues until the music slows to a stop. The semazes exit the stage with a steady head and resume their places at the railing, where they kneel and wrap themselves in their black cloaks.

The sheikh returns to the red pelt to offer a concluding prayer, then stands and bows with the semazes in recognition of their oneness.

The Sema ceremony has ended.

I quietly leave the auditorium and retrace my steps back through the curved hallway. The shadows in the street outside are gone now, swallowed up by the night. Overhead, the sky sparkles with a million stars and I sense their vibrating energy. It’s the whirling universal energy shared by all.

Whirling dervishes

For more information about the Cappadocia region, please, go to: Mysterious and Mesmerizing Capadocia

Written by Guest Contributor, Dena Weigel Bell for EuropeUpClose.com

Dena Weigel Bell holds a Bachelors of Fine Arts and has participated in several study abroad programs, exploring the cultural history of over thirty countries in Europe, the Middle East, and Asia. She continues to travel for pleasure, learning many new things on each adventure and writing about them at www.denaweigelbell.wordpress.com.

Riding the Trans-Siberian Railway: Starting in Moscow

Caitlin Dwyer — Wed, 16 May 2012 16:39:11 +0000

Steaming red brick; gold-leafed towers; thumping nightclubs; shady parks: it’s hard to pin down Russia’s capital. Moscow juggles between two identities, as a thriving symbol of the new Russia and the historical center of the old. The Trans-Siberian journey begins in Russia’s capital city. Moscow is big and bold and definitely differs in tone from the rest of the journey. Whether or not Moscow’s fast-paced lifestyle suits you, the city has enough history and culture to entertain – and makes a great introduction to modern Russia.

Bustling Red Square by Matt Bozigar

The easiest way to get around Moscow is by using the extensive Metro system. The beautiful old stations are an attraction in and of themselves – each has a separate décor, with architecture, art, and sculpture contributing to the individual design. The Mayakovskaya Station, an Art Deco masterpiece, features ceiling mosaics detailing Soviet life.

Most people begin at the heart of historical Moscow: the Kremlin. This walled compound holds the country’s religious and civil centers, including the senate buildings and president’s residence. Around the cobblestone of Sobornaya Square cluster several austere gray buildings, topped with gleaming gold onion-domes. The cathedrals of the Annunciation, Assumption, and Archangel mark the center of the Orthodox Church, the spiritual center of Russia.

The colorful onion domes that define Moscow by Matt Bozigar

Inside the cathedrals, painted frescoes cover every wall. The pale faces of saints stare out from boxed scenes. The air smells musty and damp, like wet stone. Unlike some of Europe’s grand Catholic cathedrals, these are smaller, more intimate structures.

In the same complex of buildings, the Armory holds state treasures such as Orthodox icons, bejeweled ceremonial headdresses, and ornate carriages once used to transport royalty. Just outside the square sits the Tsar’s Cannon, an immense weapon constructed to defend the city. The largest cannon ever built, it is nearly 20 feet long.

Red Square by Matt Bozigar

Edging up against the Kremlin’s outer wall is Moscow’s other famous plaza: Red Square. Bricked in a deep, dried-blood red, the Square has witnessed military parades and rock concerts. It also houses a collection of architecture that rivals any in the world. Flanked by the candy-striped spires of St. Basil’s Cathedral, the ultra-Soviet block tomb of Lenin’s mummy, and the grandiose, palatial GUM department store, Red Square easily takes an afternoon of exploring.

Lenin’s tomb is one of the city’s oddest and most popular sights. The waxy-faced revolutionary lies in perpetual state in a shadowy tomb under the Kremlin walls. The entrance lines are often long.

Across the square, the Glavnyi Universalnyi Magazin (GUM) looks more like a converted mansion than a shopping mall. The inner arcade, topped with a glass ceiling that lets in light, feels miles away from the hot, busy square outside. Originally a trade center, it later became a state-run Soviet department store. It’s an enjoyable, although expensive, place to stroll or have a cup of coffee.

GUM mall by Matt Bozigar

The imposing, brick-red State Historical Museum guards the entrance to Red Square. From bark scrolls to leather shoes to Romanov jewels, the Museum traces Russia’s development from prehistoric to modern. For us, the most fascinating artifacts were those of Russia’s various Siberian cultures, including goblets and pendants, knives, ceramics, and jewelry. Trans-Siberian travelers should peruse the collection, if only to gain an understanding of the historical differences between European Russia and eastern Siberia.

From Red Square, we took a stroll up Tverskaya Ulitsa. Lined by impressive architecture, the theater district is always bustling with activity. Churches, shops, and theaters all line the street, which slopes gently upward away from the Kremlin. The alleys and side-streets off Tverskaya Ulitsa, full of cafes, churches, and restaurants, make for good on-foot exploring.

Gorky Park, on the banks of the Moskva River, has become one of the city’s most popular places. With shady strolls, amusement park rides, restaurants, and roller skating, the park attracts visitors of all ages. Despite the cheesy attractions, Gorky Park has become a chic destination for locals. It has a lighthearted, festive atmosphere that seems almost at odds with Moscow’s brash image. Gorky Park was also the setting for a 1980s thriller of the same name.

The domes of Sobornaya Square

Night owls can find plenty of witching-hour distractions in Russia’s capital. Bars and clubs start late and throb with music all night. For those more inclined to violins than DJs, the newly reopened Bolshoi Theater makes a wonderful night out. Home to one of the world’s premiere ballet companies, the Bolshoi symbolizes elegance and culture. After extensive renovations, the famous venue is once again hosting performances – although tickets regularly sell out.

The Trans-Siberian trains depart from Yaroslavsky Station. Two other stations, Leningradsky and Kazansky, are clustered around the same Metro stop within walking distance. Night trains to and from St. Petersburg, which is Russia’s other must-see city, depart from Leningradsky.

Like most transport depots, Yaroslavsky station is not a particularly savory place, but it has left-luggage storage in the basement and basic amenities, such as banking, grocery stores, and subway connections in the immediate surroundings.

Long-distance trains such as the Baikal and Rossiya depart at night. Once the train pulls away onto the long tangle of tracks, the Trans-Siberian journey has truly begun. Moscow’s brash lights fade throughout the night, and by morning, the train is already chugging toward Siberia.

This is part of a series of articles offering advice and travel tips based on Caitlin Dwyer’s experience riding the Trans-Siberian Railway. See her first article, ‘Riding the Trans-Siberian Railway: Planning Your Journey.You may also want to read: How to Apply for a Russian Visa .For ideas about where to stay in Moscow, see our Editor’s Picks for Moscow.

Written by Caitlin Dwyer and Photos by Matt Bozigar for EuropeUpClose.com

Rue Saint-Anne: a Japanese Food Haven in Paris

Morgen Young — Tue, 15 May 2012 14:55:46 +0000

Looking for traditional Japanese food in Paris? Look to Rue Sainte Anne, which runs through the first and second arrondissements, near the Opera District. With a high concentration of Japanese businesses, the street forms a Japanese haven in France’s capital city. Wander the street and sample the best of what the district has to offer, from tiny restaurants to grocery stores. Rue Saint Anne offers epicurean delights from Japan, Korea, and other parts of Asia.

Look for Japanese Food on Rue Sainte Anne in Paris

Located near many city landmarks and tourist attractions, like the Louvre and the Opera, Rue Sainte-Anne is a wonderful street to visit for lunch while out sightseeing or shopping. The closest Metro stop is Pyramides.

Kunitoraya
There is an ever-present line outside this great, traditional Japanese restaurant, always a great sign for any dining spot. Kunitoraya serves a variety of handmade udon. Try the tempura udon – a steaming bowl of delicious broth, topped with tempura shrimp; zaru udon – cold noodles served with dipping sauce; or the curry udon. The menu also includes side dishes, like pickled vegetables. Don’t let the line intimidate you, the udon is well worth the wait. Seats are available at the bar or with a view of the street, but don’t miss the downstairs tables, in the cave-like basement. Open Monday through Sunday, 11:30 AM to 10:00 PM. Cash only.
39 Rue Saint-Anne

For excellent traditional Japanese food try Kunitoraya

Higuma
Higuma is a popular destination in Little Tokyo and another spot with consistently long lines. When you tire of rich French food, queue up here for gyoza, stir fry, and soup. The ramen is especially delicious and Higuma offers a number of different regional styles . Open Monday through Sunday, 11:30 AM to 10:30 PM. Credit cards accepted.
32 Rue Saint-Anne

Yakiniku,
Yakiniku translates to “grilled meat” in Japanese, which is exactly what the restaurant offers. A meal comes with choice of meat, salad, and spring rolls. Tables are festooned with individual grills, which patrons use to grill meat or seafood.
11 bis Rue Saint-Anne

Udon from Kunitoraya

Bizan
Bizan offers a wide ranging menu. Serving everything from sushi to tempura, the restaurant is a higher end option on a street full of eateries. Open Monday through Friday, 12:00 to 2:00 PM, 7:00 to 10:00 PM.
56 Rue Saint-Anne

Aki
An Asian influenced patisserie, Aki offers delectable breads and pastries. Sample lychee flavored macarons, green tea éclairs, matcha brioche, and other sweet treats. Enjoy a snack and a cup of green tea at the sidewalk café. Monday through Saturday, 9:00 AM to 10:00 PM. Credit cards accepted.
16 Rue Saint-Anne

K Mart
K Mart is a grocery store stocked full of Korean and Japanese products. Stop in to pick up hard to find Asian ingredients, like gochujang. Find fresh produce, seafood, noodles, sake, spices, and much more. Visit the cafeteria or the to-go food shelves for a quick lunch. Open Monday through Sunday, 10:00 AM to 9:00 PM. Credit cards accepted.
6-8 Rue Saint-Anne

Juji-Ya
Another great grocery store is Juji-Ya. Specializing in Japanese products, the shop sells packaged goods, produce, seafood, and other items. Wander up and down the aisles and distract yourself with the brightly colored packaged items, from instant noodles to pickled vegetables to candy. Pick up ready-made food for a take away meal. Monday through Saturday, 10:00 AM to 10:00 PM. Sunday, 10:00 AM to 9:00 PM. Credit cards accepted.
46 Rue Saint-Anne

When in Paris, and you are hankering for some Asian food, be sure to check out Rue Ste.Anne!

Written by Morgen Young for EuropeUpClose.com

Gran Paradiso National Park, Italy’s Paradise

Marilyn McFarlane — Mon, 14 May 2012 15:41:08 +0000

Fresh grilled trout, fields of wildflowers, battling queens,and a lofty mountain—Paradise can’t get better than that. This particular paradise is Gran Paradiso National Park, in northwestern Italy between Aosta Valley and the Piedmont region. Established in 1922 on land that had been saved as a hunting reserve, it was the country’s first national park. Its main snow-covered peak, Gran Paradiso, is the highest mountain in Italy, rising to 13,323 feet in the stunningly gorgeous Alps. Downhill and cross-country skiing are popular (no lifts, though), and several tour groups offer guided trips that include overnight stays in mountain huts (rifugios). Summer visitors go trekking, mountain climbing, and camping.

Gran Paradiso Mountain, Italy's highest peak

John and I stayed in the sweet little town of Cogne, a former miners’ village tucked into a valley just inside the eastern edge of the 270-square-mile park. It faces a rushing river on one side and wide green meadows on the other, with steep hills and mountains in all directions. From the tiny balcony off our room at Hotel de la Tor, we had a fine view of the valley and Gran Paradiso’s high, snow-covered sprawl. Hotel de la Tor offers mid-range prices, friendly hosts, comfortable rooms, and a chef who’s skilled at preparing regional dishes. I hesitated over spreading lardo (delicate white pig fat) on the fig-walnut bread served with nuts and honey, but decided that when in Cogne do as the Cognese do. Smearing bread with butter from cows isn’t that different from using lardo, considered a light, tasty delicacy.

The sweet little town of Cogne, Italy

Two other fine hotel choices in Cogne are the 4-star Hotel Bellevue and Hotel Sant’Orso. The Bellevue is expensive but has amenities and luxuries, including a swimming pool, spa, and three good restaurants. We liked Brasserie du Bon Bec, with its alpine atmoshere and well-prepared dishes such as veal casserole and potato/cheese tart. La Pierrade is a house specialty—you cook your own meat, tomatoes and onions on a sizzling hot stone brought to the table. Hotel Sant’Orso has attractive rooms and, a boon to families, a playground. It also boasts a restaurant with a valley view and, when we were there, a hostess dressed in full-skirted Tyrolean garb who entertained every table with her friendly charm. Entrees on the interesting menu included venison with juniper berries, suckling pig with caramelized oranges, and chicken breast with sage. As in most Italian restaurants, there was a wide choice of wines at reasonable prices.

Cogne's signature Lace curtains

Strolling through Cogne, which is noted for the fine quality of its intricate handmade lace, we watched lacemakers in a cooperative working at their spindled looms. Cogne is also the home of highly skilled wood carvers, and some of their works are sold locally. We passed numerous shops selling outdoor and climbers’ gear, peeked into a few woodcrafting studios, and picked up maps at a well-run visitors’ center. These were stops along the way to the main attraction: paths that crossed daisy-starred meadows, edged the river, and climbed to higher mountain trails. We chose a path that turned upward, switchbacking through pine trees to a lovely waterfall. Other hikers continued on more challenging trails, up the steep terrain to sweeping views across snowfields, grassy valleys, and tumblng streams.

Waterfall on hillside above Valnontay valley

Gran Paradiso Park has 60-odd stream-fed lakes and ponds, 57 glaciers, and meadows spangled with blue, white and yellow wildflowers in season. Blue gentians, alpenrose, and lilies were bright spots of color in the rocky landscape. Paradisia Botanical Garden near Cogne, open to visitors for a fee, grows about 1500 plant species. Our return trip ended at the Valnontey, a lively, casual restaurant on a hillside by a grassy meadow. People at picnic-style tables were feasting on mounds of polenta, pasta, and cheese. We opted for ravioli and trout, both excellent. As we left, a small herd of ibex bounded from the steep, forested hillside into the meadow. They calmly grazed, not at all bothered by gawking tourists. Ibex are protected here; not long ago their numbers were low, but they have increased manyfold. Other wildlife in Gran Paradiso Park are rabbits, chamois, weasels, birds, butterflies, and the more elusive lynx.

John at meadow and valley in Gran Paradiso National Park

This is dairy country, where flavorful cheeses are produced. A few of the many cows you see in the region’s pastures have another occupation: head-wrestling. These are the battling queens, trained to lock horns and push and twist against each other until one gives way. Throughout the local villages, regular competitions are held—the “Battles of the Queens.” That’s life in Paradise.

Written by Marilyn McFarlane for EuropeUpClose.com

Up Close Picture of the Week: Krakow, Poland

Mattie Bamman — Sat, 12 May 2012 17:40:36 +0000

On my first visit to Krakow, I didn’t know what to expect. I knew that the city is one of the few Polish cities not destroyed during WWII and that the beautiful architecture is some of the oldest in Poland. This photograph provides a wonderful example of the intricate features of Krakow’s architecture. Read more about the Romance of Krakow.

Pigeons taking over Krakow's Main Square

Written by Mattie Bamman for EuropeUpClose.com

Gaudí’s Barcelona

Morgen Young — Fri, 11 May 2012 15:56:41 +0000

Antoni Gaudí’s unique architecture defines Barcelona for many of its visitors. Born in 1852, Gaudí became one of Spain’s most celebrated architects. His works defied any one particular architectural style though were clearly influenced by art from around the world, including: India, Persia and Japan. Drawing on numerous architectural forms, from Moorish works to Gothic Revival, Gaudí developed his own unique interpretation of buildings in Catalonia. He is considered the master of Catalan Modernism, defining a new architectural language in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries.

Gaudi's Parc Guell in Barcelona

Sagrada Familia
Undoubtedly the most famous of Gaudí’s works, the Sagrada Familia is one of Barcelona’s most notable landmarks. Gaudí began designing the church in 1883 and devoted the last years of his life to the project. When he died in 1926, less than a quarter of the building was completed. Construction of the church continues to this day, with an anticipated completion date of 2026. The style of the Sagrada Familia is wholly unparalleled , with some architectural historians classifying it as Art Noveau and others as Catalan Modernism. Many have likened the design to that of a sand castle, with spires rising high into the sky. The church contains three facades. The Nativity façade, to the east, was the first to be completed. Dedicated to the birth of Jesus, this façade is richly decorated with sculptures celebrating life, including fauna and flora. The Passion façade to the west is relatively stripped of ornamentation, with the crucifixion of Jesus and impressive columns serving as the main focal points. Sculptural elements on this façade depict various biblical scenes. The Glory façade, to the south, has yet to be finished, but is said to be the most impressive of the three facades. The high level of ornamentation continues in the interior, with abstract shapes and columns designed to resemble trees and branches.

The Sagrada Familia,
Open daily, 9:00 am – 6:00 pm, October through March; 9:00 am – 8:00 pm, April through September.
Tickets cost €13 or €17 with a guide or audio guide.
Calle Mallorca 401.

Work continues on the Sagrada Familia

Casa Milà
Often considered the second most popular Gaudí building in Barcelona, the Casa Milà is situated along the fashionable Passeig de Gracia. Nicknamed “The Quarry,” the building is constructed of natural stone and lacks the bright colors and ornate detailing sometimes associated with Gaudí’s work. Casa Milà was commissioned by Roser Segimon and Pere Milà and construction was completed in 1912. Its design, marked by a rippling stone façade, was considered controversial at the time. The most interesting element of the building is the rooftop, which contains a series of chimneys, each resembling a distinct surrealist sculpture.

Casa Milà,
Open daily, 9:00 am – 6:30 pm, October through March; 9:00 am – 8:00 pm, April through September.
Tickets cost €14.
Passeig de Gracia 92

Gaudi's Casa Mila

Casa Batlló
Walking southeast along the Passeig de Gracia, one will encounter Gaudí’s impressive Casa Batlló (http://www.casabatllo.es/). The unique façade was built between 1904 and 1906, covering the original exterior of an 1877 structure. The remodel was commissioned by Josep Batlló, a textile industrialist, to serve as his private home. Sometimes called the “House of Bones,” the structure has a skeleton like appearance, seen especially in the treatment of the balconies. Unlike Casa Milà, Casa Batlló is rich with ornamentation. Nearly every imaginable surface is decorated with a mosaic of ceramic tile and glass. The roof is laid in tile and arched, to resemble the back of a dragon.

Casa Batlló,
Open daily, 9:00 AM – 8:00 PM.
Entry fee is €16.50.
Passeig de Gracia 43

Casa Batleo by Gaudi

Park Güell
Designed by Gaudí, the Park Güell complex in the Gràcia district was built upon a rocky hill that had once served as the site of a failed housing development of Eusebi Güell. Construction of the park, which consist of gardens and several buildings, was completed in 1914. Two buildings flank the main entrance. Beyond the entrance are two white staircases, separated by a large mosaic dragon sculpture. Both buildings contain intricately designed rooftops, laid in white ceramic tiles. A large terrace is the focal point of the park. The terrace is supported by a series of columns and a tiled ceiling. The perimeter of the terrace is marked by a serpentine bench decorated in rich ceramic tile mosaics. Built into the hill are the terrace walls, designed to emulate the natural surroundings. Gaudí also designed roadways around the park, which are well integrated with the surrounding environment. Visitors can meander along colonnaded paths beneath the roadways. Now a municipal garden,

Park Güell is free to the public.
Carrer d’Olot 7

Gaudi's Masterpiece: Colorful Parc Guell

Other Gaudí works in Barcelona include: Casa Vincens, Casa Calvet, Güell Pavilions, Palau Güell, Colegio de las Teresianas, Bellesguard, and The Gaudí House Museum, accessible for a fee, and contains furniture designed by the architect.

Written by Morgen Young for EuropeUpClose.com

Mycenae, Greece: Ghosts and Legends

W. Ruth Kozak — Thu, 10 May 2012 14:57:36 +0000

I’m standing on the crest of Mycenae’s acropolis hill looking out over the ruined ramparts of the ancient citadel. It’s easy to evoke those long-past times and I let my imagination run wild recalling Homer’s tales and the tragedies of the dramatists, Aeschylus and Euripides. The series of treacheries, improper marriages and acts of vengeance that took place in Mycenae were characteristic of the dynasty and supplied the basis for the Classical dramas that told the stories of what might have happened there in the 16^th century BC. The blind poet, Homer, wrote about Mycenae in The Iliad and although some of his accounts may have been fictional, recent finds prove that many of his details regarding Myceanean traditions and customs were correct.

Palace ruins in Mycenae

Mycenae (Mykines), once the centre of the great Helladic civilisation, flourished (1550-1200BC) during the Bronze Age. According to legend it was founded by Perseus, the slayer of Medusa, the gorgon, then fell into the bloodied hands of the House of Atreus. The history of this violent period includes gruesome stories of murder and cannibalism beginning a tragic cycle in which the gods cursed the House of Atreus, including Atreus’ son Agamemnon. This was traditionally the capital city of King Agamemnon. The acropolis, which was the residence of the kings, stands on an isolated hill skirted by two deep ravines.

author with a view from citadel

After Agamemnon’s victory at Troy he arrived home to a feeling of dark foreboding. The elders of the city had not forgotten how he had sacrificed his youngest daughter, Iphigenia, to appease his army; and while he was away at war, his wife Clytemnestra, had taken a lover, Aegisthus. Not only that, Agamemnon was bringing home Cassandra, the daughter of his vanquished foe, Priam. Cassandra, a prophetess, on arriving at the citadel proclaimed: “It is a house the gods hate. The floor is red with blood and I hear children crying.” Her prophecies were true, because soon afterwards Agamemnon was murdered by his wife and her lover. Then his children, Orestes and Electra, avenged their father’s death by killing Clytemnestra and Aegisthus.

Although nothing remains today of the dramas that took place there three thousand years ago, from the moment I entered the site through the massive Lion Gate and cyclopean walls of the citadel, I could somehow sense the presence of the ancient ghosts.

Lion Gate entrance Mycenae

The palace, at the summit of the acropolis had been rebuilt in the 13^th century BC. Although only ruins remain you can make out the different rooms. In the center is a wide court with terraces leading to anterooms and the big throne room. The smaller rooms are believed to have been royal apartments. In one of them are the remains of a red stucco bath which might have been the scene of Agamemnon’s murder.

Inside the walls is a grave circle believed to be the royal cemetery. It was here that the archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann found the golden funeral mask known as “the mask of Agamemnon”, although it seems the mask dates from about three centuries before the Trojan Wars.

Circle tombs

Below the citadel are ruins of the ancient town with remains of merchant houses where quantities of pottery were found as well as Linear B tablets that record trade in spices and scented oils. Alongside the houses are remains of earlier graves and two circular chamber tombs dating from about 1500 BC, indentified by Schliemann as the tombs of Clytemnestra and her lover Aegisthus, dating from about 15oo BC.

I walk back down the hill to the beehive ‘tomb’ known as the Treasury of Atreus, an impressive monument built without the use of mortar. I enter the tomb through a long corridor, entering the camber under a doorway with a great lintel of stone. This beautiful tholos tomb is also known as the “Tomb of Agamemnon”. It was built around 1250 BC. No treasury was found here as it had been pillaged in ancient times but it is awe inspiring nonetheless.

Entrance to Treasury of Atreus tomb

The town of Mycenae is located two kilometers from the archaeological site, so if you go by bus you’ll be dropped off at Fikhti rather than in the village and there is a two kilometer walk uphill to the citadel. I opted to take a tour from Athens and not only got to explore Mycenae, but also Epidaurus ancient theatre, and an interesting pottery workshop near the town of Mycenae. The tour included lunch.

For travel to Mycenae from Athens

Tours from Athens to Mycenae:

Written by W. Ruth Kozak for EuropeUpClose.com