EuropeUpClose.com

Hiring a Tour Guide: Is it Worth it?

Terri Fogarty — Fri, 17 May 2013 16:37:02 +0000

My husband, Bill, and I had never hired a private tour guide before our recent trip to Italy. In the past, we read our guidebooks, consulted the internet, and reviewed EuropeUpClose.com to see what our writers had to say. We then did our own thing. We have also been part of large group tours, but this experience showed us the value of a knowledgeable, private tour guide to help us sort through the must-sees and the it-would-be-nice to see. It saved us valuable time and as you know,when on vacation, every minute counts.

Rome from the Vatican

As we planned our travels, we set up a press trip with a great company called LocalGuiding.com , a company that seeks out local guides who really know the territory to help you design the perfect tour that will meet your specific needs. We received complimentary tours during our visits to Rome and Pompeii/Herculaneum. But, that fact does not influence my assessment of the services we received. Our goal was to assess the value of a private tour guide against the cost. Our guides were all certified and highly experienced as you must pass a rigorous series of exams, both written and oral, in order to become a licensed tour guide in Italy. This is a very difficult process, with approximately only one in 10 applicants passing the examinations. This was evident, given the deep knowledge and experience of our guides. There are plenty of people who will approach you on the street telling you that you can pay them to get you into a museum or attraction without waiting in line. Do not do this; they are not certified guides and it will cost more money than it is worth. If you are inclined to use a private guide, plan ahead and talk via email with a guide before you even get to your destination. They are a font of knowlegdge and will help you get the most from your visit.

Tour Guide Sergio Grom and me

We had been to Rome about ten years ago and at that time explored the city on our own. This time, we wanted to come away with a deeper understanding of the rich history of the city and to be assured that we were seeing authentic Rome and the Vatican. We saw the major tourist sites on our own but to get a more in-depth understanding of the city, we took a private 3-hour walking tour of Rome with historian and certified tour guide, Sergio Grom. Sergio met us at our hotel and quickly determined what we had already seen (the main tourist sights) and what specific interests we had. We love art and architecture, so he took that into consideration in planning our walking tour. He began with taking us to the Santa Maria della Vittoria Church to see Bernini’s Ecstasy of St. Therese, a gem we would have missed entirely if on our own.

Ecstasy of St. Therese by Bernini

In a most engaging, entertaining manner, Sergio provided us with a solid historical perspective of Roman times, the rule of the most significant popes through the centuries, and the relationship between the church and Mussolini in the late 1920s. We visited the most important churches and basilicas and finished with a walk through Rome’s Jewish quarter. We saw and learned so much in the three hours we spent with Sergio, that it can be said we came away with a new-found, enduring interest in ancient and contemporary Rome.

A few days later, we embarked on a visit to the Vatican Museums (including the Sistine Chapel), and St. Peter’s Basilica. This time, we were accompanied by Lara Grom (Sergio’s daughter who is an art history major and certified guide.) I cannot stress enough how important it is to have a certified guide (preferably a private guide) to visit these treasures. In the first place, because we made appointments, we were able to walk right into the museum without waiting in line for hours. And, since the museum is actually one of the largest museums in the world, we were able to visit parts that were of particular interest to us instead of plodding through, not knowing where we were going. We also learned that Lara is the mother of two children and is delighted to provide guide services to families.

Map Room at the Vatican Museum

Before we entered the Sistine Chapel, Lara sat us down with a book of photos of the the ceiling and walls to prepare us for what we would see in the Chapel. While in the Sistine Chapel, there is no talking or taking of photographs, so it was important for us to know in advance what we would be seeing. We learned, for instance, about some of the symbolism in Michelangelo’s ceiling frescos and the wall paintings which were executed by several leading painters of the late 15th century including: Sandro Botticelli, Domenico Ghirlandaio and Pietro Perugino. After our quiet time in the Sistine Chapel, we walked to St Peter’s to view the Pieta by Michelangelo and other magnificent works of art housed in the vast Basilica.

Lara Grom and Bill at St. Peter's

The morning was a complete success. We know now that a visit to the Sistine Chapel and the Vatican Museums would not be complete without an enthusiastic, knowledgeable guide.

After Rome, we took the fast train to Naples, from which we planned to visit Herculaneum and Pompeii. We prepared ourselves for the visit by going to the famous National Archeological Museum in Naples. Here you will find many artifacts from Pompeii that will give you a glimpse into what life was like before the eruption of Mt. Vesuvius.

This time our guide was Emiliano Tufano, an archeologist and certified guide. Emiliano provides exclusive, tailor-made tours, designed according to your requirements. We began our tour in Herculaneum, a smaller site than Pompeii that was also devastated by the eruption of Mt. Vesuvius in 79 AD. We viewed the entire site with Emiliano’s knowledgeable and witty commentary on the history and archeological aspects of the town.

Herculaneum

Emiliano then drove us to Pompeii, a much larger site, where we saw how the Pompeians lived before that fateful day. The tour was filled with interesting facts and amusing anecdotes. Emiliano, who lives in Pompeii, is brimming with knowledge of the site and of the volcanic eruption and its effects. Emiliano offers dozens of tours from a Vespa tour of the bay of Naples to a day tour of the Amalfi coast. His good humor and passion for his work will make any tour exciting and quite a bit more fun.

Emiliano Tufano

All in all, a certified private guide will cost in the area of $40- $70 per hour. When you take into consideration the investment you make in a Europe vacation, adding a few hundred dollars to complete the experience is a small price to pay. Having the ability to ask questions as you go and engage in a dialog with the guide makes it all worthwhile. And, remember that tour guides arrange reservations so you do not need to wait in line to enter popular attractions, which is a real time saver. From now on, we will happily use the services of private or small-group guides for our travels because we know it is well worth it.

Finally, we heartily recommend the excellent tour guide services of Sergio, Lara, and Emiliano.

Written by Terri Fogarty and photos by Bill Fogarty for EuropeUpClose.com

Winter Solstice at Stonehenge

Guest Contributor — Thu, 16 May 2013 16:09:20 +0000

Attending the winter solstice at Stonehenge is a dark and cold logistical challenge that deters less dedicated tourists and, as a result, is a more intimate and spiritual event.

Stonehenge

The summer and winter solstices are two of only four times during the year when Stonehenge has ‘Managed Open Access’, meaning patrons can enter without paying admission and are not required to remain at a distance but can move freely within the circle and even touch the stones. Unlike the summer solstice, when Stonehenge is open all night and revelers often spend the entire night waiting for sunrise, at winter solstice, due to safety concerns, the henge is only open for a few hours on the morning of the shortest day.

Pre-Dawn Ceremony

In order to attend the winter solstice, therefore, it is necessary to stay nearby. Those with cars might opt for staying in Salisbury, the nearest city and a beautiful place to visit in its own right. Amesbury, a smaller but closer option, is within walking distance, and this is where my friend and I decided to stay.

At 05:30am, our alarm went off. It played a song that I cannot now remember but that I instantly disliked. It played again at 5:35 and 5:40 until we finally, grudgingly, bundled ourselves up and began to trudge out of Amesbury and into the surrounding farmland and the wet.

Sunrise at Stonehenge

It was dark, very dark. It was dark as we searched for street signs using our cell phones as torches. It was dark when we sprinted across the freeway in search of a sidewalk; dark when we walked through an ankle-deep puddle; and dark when we sprinted back across the freeway just out of view of the police officers that we thought were meant to prevent us from crossing the freeway but who were really just guiding cars to parking spots along the side of the road. And it was dark when we first heard the thumping of drums and called out songs that told us the solstice-goers had already arrived.

Solstice ceremony crowd

A row of officers in bright yellow safety vests guided us up the walkway, as though ushering us past a crime scene, rather than welcoming us to a religious festival. Across the line of fencing, we could just make out the standing stones against the dark sky, and see the processional line winding its way into the stone circle.

In the car lot across from the henge, we joined a mixed group of tourists, zoom lens cameras dangling about their necks; and hippies, dreadlocked and smelling of pot; and new-age druids and witches, with robes of white or green or purple layered about them, and their staff heads carved into spirals or gazelles or some just tamed into sensible walking sticks.

The purpose of ‘Managed Open Access’ is to allow religious celebration at Stonehenge, though many of those who attend the celebrations have no religious ties to the stones and simply seek a better connection with history or a good story. While the summer solstice at Stonehenge attracts tens of thousands of visitors, winter solstice is a more temperate affair, with several hundred to a thousand guests, usually with a quieter, more spiritual, less party-focused atmosphere.

Sun between the stones

As the conga line spiraled its way into the hedge, drums were thumped, songs were called out, but the atmosphere was otherwise quiet, anticipatory, waiting for sunrise. We gathered in the center of the stones, pressing against one another in search of body warmth and maybe a little meaning as well. People reached out, hesitantly, to touch the moss and feel the crags of the stones.

At the center of the stones, a priest in a white robe and twill brimmed cap spoke a few words in a thick brogue before leading the crowd in a blessing of the four cardinal directions and a prayer for peace, both world-wide and inner. Participants offered songs and poems as well as prayers for peace.

Stonehenge after sunrise

The ceremony over, enthusiastic, amateur drummers began to beat in earnest while the most devout or well-rested took to dancing. The main body then slipped beyond the stones to wish one another a happy solstice and take quick photos of participants touching the stones and generally standing in places forbidden to visitors the rest of the year.

The sun rose.

We took photos. It was beautiful.

I suppose that’s as good a start as any to a new year.

Written by Guest Contributor Anne Siders for EuropeUpClose.com

Anne Siders is a foot-path traveler who delights in the off-beat, the ancient, and the active. She travels for work and for pleasure, and for the opportunity to write and photograph it all.

Designer Shopping in Paris: Finding the “Upper Underground” Bargains

Guest Contributor — Tue, 14 May 2013 13:47:22 +0000

Shopping in Paris is the shopping equivalent of finding your soul mate. Paris is seductive; it has an allure and elegance unlike any other city. The problem is, as a shopping soul mate, it tends be slightly more fickle than your new main squeeze.

Too many choices

When Shopping in Paris, you’ll find that:

1. You romanticize even the everyday, familiar things in life (it’s not just a sweater, its a French sweater).

2. You find yourself trying to be the absolute best version of yourself (you may be wearing sweats and a ponytail to brunch at home, but in Paris, lipstick is necessary for answering the door for room service).

3. You try to fill your days with special excursions, and deem all of the little gems you frequent one of “our places”.

Who can blame you?

Accessories on Display

For a city with a reputation for being the epicenter of style, it is easy to find yourself under-whelmed by fast-fashion chains and crushed amongst other tourists, sifting through the same H&M peasant blouses you could have found at home.

The good news is, you no longer have to be a savvy local to uncover real fashion finds and deals. Prepare to fall head over heels with our guide to the It boutiques and private sales of Upper (upscale and high-end) Underground (authentic and original) Paris.

Le Marais

Shopping in the Trendy Marais

This trendy area is mentioned in nearly every shopping guide to Paris – and for good reason. Walking through the winding streets of Le Marais will lead you past shops for clothing and shoes one after another, after another, and most popular mid-sized French labels have locations in this district (including Maje, Sandro, Iro and Mellow Yellow). But what will really make your heart skip a beat is that most of these brands have stock stores, selling past seasons looks at heavily discounted prices. Sandro, Zadig & Voltaire and others all have stock shops just around the corner from them.

In addition to the more well known lines (Bloomingdales just started carrying select pieces from Maje and Sandro), Le Marais is also home to Parisian boutiques lesser-known to the American fashionista. If it’s the boho glam look you want, you need to know about Manoush. Feminine, whimsical and flirty, walking into this store feels like a cross between the closets of Marie Antoinette and Mick Jagger. Ruffles, sequins and pops of pink, mixed with leather, studs and rocker boots. It’s only a matter of time before this delicious line explodes onto party girls and celebutantes here in the states – it’s that good.

Kinji

Another favorite is Kinji, a tiny boutique featuring clothes from Korea. The small space is filled with dresses in sherbet colors, adorned with metallic lace, neon cameos and deco-inspired glittery beading – all easily mistakable for Miu Miu without the clunky price tag (dresses run from 80 to 160 Euros). Not exactly classic French style, but the French-Korean owner chooses pieces that look so Paris and feel so unique.

Bastille

The Bastille

What you lose in quantity, you make up for in quality in this pocket of streets just blocks from the Bastille metro stop. Walking the streets here feels quieter and significantly less touristy, and just when you think you’ve taken a wrong turn somewhere, signage for the Isabel Marant boutique reminds you that you’re in exactly the right place. While you can find her clothes at Barneys and smaller high-end boutiques stateside, a trip to Isabel Marant is still worth it. Viewing the entire collection, including runway pieces, bags, shoes and accessories really reveals how and why she has become such a darling in the fashion world. The look is urban French cowgirl (with that cool girl flair) – and nowhere else in Paris did we see leather, rhinestones or stud detailing done better.

A few steps down from Isabel Marant is Oxyde, a shop carrying clothing with clean lines and ladylike details (our favorite pieces are a navy blouse with large ruffles down each sleeve a la Chloe, and long chiffon skirts in rich camels and khakis). The standout pieces of the store, however, are the shoes – which seem to make every skirt or top really make sense and pop. Leopard print espadrille lace ups and fringe ankle boots – all from 90s label No Name – feel fresh, fun (and comfortable!)

Outlets & Private Sales

Bargains can be had if you search

The best private sales and designer outlet stores in Paris don’t lie in just one neighborhood, but are definitely worth zig zagging across the city to find.

The Chloe outlet store was by far our favorite. Racks and racks of spring coats, trenches, embellished dresses and lace blouses can be had for 50% off (some at 70%) as well as a strong selection of flats, sandals and sunnies. The major score here though are the bags. Large sized Marcie, Elise and Paraty styles all available for around 800 Euros, and smaller patent cross bodies were on sale for 350 Euros. One of a kind and runway bags also lined the shelves and were tagged with shockingly low pricetags – albeit a couple seasons old. (Word of caution, upon entering we were told that the store was only for private customers. We explained that a friend had told us about the store, and with a few mumbled words in French and an eye roll, we were allowed in. Saying something of the same and you shouldn’t really have a problem if you act like you should be there.)

Another outlet worth seeking out is Alaia. Hidden from the street (it’s located in the courtyard of the design house’s headquarters), this tiny space features a limited number of items, but all at 50% lower than retail. Because of the size of the space, it’s hit or miss, but when we went there were quite a few pairs of lust-worthy boots and belts as well.

Way off the beaten path from basically anything that would beacon even the most adventurous tourist is the Sonia Rykiel stock store. Located just a few blocks from the Alesia metro stop, the space is larger than most outlet stores and has a really wide selection of clothes, shoes, bags and jewelry. Discounts are up to 50%, with newer items discounted less.

Sonia by Sonia Rykiel Outlet

On same street, Rue Alesia, you’ll find Zapa Paris, Stock Chevignon and other stock or outlet shop (the word ‘stock’ or ‘degriffe’ will be posted somewhere on the window.) From the outside, these stores can look questionable – bad, even. You have to be willing to dig. We ended up with a metallic knit t-shirt and an embroidered Kenzo sweatshirt – both great buys.

The Must Guide:

Stock Maje
9, Rue du Cherche Midi, in the 6th.

Stock Sandro
26, Rue de Sévigné, in the 4th.

Stock Zadig et Voltaire
22, Rue du Bourg Tibourg, in the 4th.

Manoush
75, Rue Vieille du Temple, in the 4th

Kinji
52, Rue de la Verrerie, in the 4th

Isabel Marant
16, Rue de Charonne, in the 11th

Oxyde
28, Rue de Charonne, in the 11th

Chloe Outlet
5-7, Rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, in the 11th

Stock Azzeline Alaïa
18, Rue de la Verrerie, in the 4th

Sonia Rykiel SR Store
64, Rue d’Alésia, in the 14^th

*To streamline your shopping if you have limited time, another option is to hire a private shopper. Juliette Kruh, at Philosophy Paris is a go-to person for private sales. You can contact her at juliette_kruh@yahoo.fr

Written by Guest Contributors Iris Friedman and Chloe Popescu for EuropeUpClose.com

After having huge success with both a jewelry line and clothing line, mother-daughter writing team Iris Friedman and Chloe Popescu have united their passions for travel and fashion to write about shopping, style and culture across Europe.

Seeking Quiet in the Bustling Cities of Europe

Terri Fogarty — Mon, 13 May 2013 14:51:04 +0000

I recently received three books in the ‘Quiet City’ series by Siobhan Wall for review. Her latest book, Quiet Paris, follows Quiet Amsterdam published in 2012, and Quiet London in 2010. I was intrigued by the idea of seeking out the quiet spots in each of these beautiful cities because so often when traveling, I become overwhelmed by the urban cacophony, all there is to do and see, and I just need a quiet place to recharge.

Salters Garden in London

Ms. Wall set out to “wander aimlessly” through selected cities to discover secluded gardens, Muzac-free shops, bistros and out-of-the way cafes. She carefully describes her favorite museums, libraries, galleries, cultural centers, as well as her private selection of places of worship and places to relax.

European Zen Center -Amsterdam

We asked Ms. Wall to share with us why she decided to write these books:

“Why did I start writing the quiet series? Firstly, I’ve had Menière’s disease for around 17 years now, which started after a bad cold virus. I have mild to moderate dizziness most of the time, which gets a lot worse if I become ill with the flu, am over-tired, or travel by any means of transport other than a bicycle for more than an hour.”

“After making a list of really inviting quiet places, I realised that other people might also appreciate finding small cafes or intimate, muzac-free restaurants, so I decided to write a book that would encourage readers to seek out tranquil places. Living in Amsterdam, I realised that looking for peaceful spots was a good way to explore the city and get fit at the same time. (Due to having Menière’s disease, I never learnt to drive a car). I spent idyllic afternoons cycling to nature reserves and walking along empty paths alongside dykes fringed with tall reeds. It was easy to discover beautiful outdoor spaces – I just silently cruised down cycle lanes to green patches on the map. Instead of cars, I prefer to hear alive things – birdsong, bees – things breathing and wild. I like to wander, especially if I have been very busy writing and love discovering secret places by chance. For me, the pleasure of the incidental and the unplanned is part of the quiet thrill of doing research for the books.”

Siobhan Wall

“Often my research just involves talking to people I meet in peaceful locations, as they invariably know about other tranquil places – it’s like belonging to a secret, underground network of lovers of quietness. I am happy sitting in empty churches, or walking past lavender bushes in hidden gardens or looking at thoughtful pencil drawings in small galleries. I am meadow girl, really- a 21^st century female version of Ferdinand the Bull, the fictional character who used to sit under an oak tree smelling the flowers.”

“I recently realised that writing the books is like creating my own medicine as the Menière’s disease subsides if I feel calm in a tranquil place. I really appreciate the places in the books while I am taking the photographs, even before they are published. Working on the books, I return from each city with lots of photos to edit, followed by a busy few months writing and checking information about each location. I suppose I have managed to create the ideal job for myself.”

“I can easily hear people speak in the quiet locations I visit, and can help curious readers discover them, too. (I find that the small shops, cafes and gardens don’t get overrun with visitors, as people seeking a quieter life tend to go alone or with a thoughtful friend and once there, they whisper rather than shout). What I discovered as an artist and writer, is that ideas appear very easily when I am quiet. It is as if the distractions of everyday life not only make me dizzy, but get in the way of new things emerging. As well as a solace for busy lives, quietness allows gentle, unexpected things to happen.”

Telling her story with both black & white and colored photos, Ms. wall shows us the serene side of each of these cities. Here are a few examples of what you will find in Quiet Paris:

Musee Zadkine
100 bis rue d’Assas, 75006
” It is a delightful space to visit, from walking through the cottage garden to discovering the gentle, hand-carved figures on large plinths in each tranquil room.”

Les Jardins des Archives Nationales
60 rue des Francs Bourgeois, 75003
Four gardens surround France’s National Archives, offering small ponds, huge plane trees and lilac bushes.

Paris Archives Nationales

La Boutique Extrordinaire
67 rue Charlot, 75003
On a street of small shops, this boutique sells extraordinary women’s garments. From unique sweaters to scarves to jackets, you will find much here to love.

La Boutique Extraordinaire

Ms. Wall also offers restaurant and lodging recommendations.

Le Terroir Parisien
20 rue Saint Victor, 7005
Next time I am in Paris, I will be sure to try this restaurant. She calls Le Terroir Parisien ”a sophisticated place to enjoy superb dishes made mainly with ingredients from the Ile de France, the area surrounding Paris”

Le Pavillon de la Reine
28 place des Vosges, 75003
This boutique hotel has long been a favorite of those who love understated luxury. The private garden is a place to unwind after a long day of sightseeing.

Each book has the same format and inviting photographs. They are books you will want to consult before planning your trip to London, Amsterdam or Paris. Even if finding a quiet spot is not your goal; Ms. Wall’s discoveries are magic.

Written by Terri Fogarty for EuropeUpClose.com

The Ravenous Traveler: A Fresher than Fresh Restaurant Recommendation in Amsterdam

Mattie Bamman — Fri, 10 May 2013 13:30:48 +0000

Before visiting The Netherlands, I wasn’t sure what type of food the Dutch eat. I had a vague idea or two, but both ideas were pickled. Could one subsist on pickled foods alone? I truly hoped not.

For a fine-dining meal with some of the freshest ingredients available in all of Europe, check out Restaurant De Kas on your next trip to Amsterdam. Located inside of a beautiful greenhouse in Klein Dantzig Park, the restaurant grows many of its own vegetables onsite. Heading the kitchen is Michelin-star Chef Gert Jan Hageman, and, on my most recent trip to Amsterdam, he prepared an amazing feast that demonstrated what the cutting-edge culinary scene in The Netherlands is all about.

De Kas Exterior

When I arrived, I discovered that many of the most traditional foods in The Netherlands are still popular today. Believe me, pickled herring is everywhere. But don’t believe the Dutch when they say that pickled herring cures hangovers (but to make sure, try it along with a snifter of aquavit, a caraway-flavored liquor typical of Scandinavia). This combination is sure to put you into a local frame of mind—one of vikings and Danish folklore.

Chef Hageman

As Restaurant De Kas soon proved, the culinary scene in The Netherlands is vying for the top seat in Europe. I can think of many restaurants in Europe that have onsite vegetable gardens but very few that are located in major cities. De Kas’s dining room is located inside of a greenhouse once used by Amsterdam’s Municipal Nursery, and you get to dine under an all-glass ceiling. Upon entering, the restaurant’s gigantic vegetable garden is just off to the left, and I found kitchen staff in crisp white uniforms collecting ingredients for the day’s menu. Each day, the menu is reinvented based on what’s available in the garden.

Dining Room at De Kas

If you haven’t experienced it, it’s difficult to fathom the flavors that come from eating produce grown just thirty feet away. It’s vibrant and alive; almost as though you can taste the very marrow of the region you’re visiting. This was definitely the case with the first course: Rocket Soup. With unbelievably rich green color, the soup came with a hand-dived scallop on top, and hidden beneath was a delicate amount of potato salad with citrus yoghurt.

Rocket Soup at De Kas

The other appetizers included Oudendijks Onion Confit on Toast with a poached egg and Parmesan cheese fondue and a Salad of Smoked Salsify and Lamb’s Lettuce with piccalilli and Iberico ham. Salsify is a root vegetable in the dandelion family, and it is known for having an oystery taste when cooked. I didn’t pick up on this at the time, but it certainly makes me want to try it again.

More Appetizers at De Kas

For the main course, Chef Hageman served Roast Guinea Fowl with baked polenta, spinach, and hazelnut sauce. The one ingredient this description leaves off is the one that absolutely blew my mind: chervil. A relative of parsley and sage, the chervil had a slight anise flavor that made everything else in the dish pop, and, thanks to De Kas, chervil will definitely become a staple in my home herb garden from now on.

Roast Guinea Fowl

Chef Hageman finished the meal with a flowery dessert of Short-Crust Pastry Tartlet with Rhubarb and White Chocolate Parfait, and it was served with pistachio mousse, yummy sugared violets, and garnished with strands of rhubarb. After an espresso, I left the restaurant and strolled along the paths in Klein Dantzig Park. Ducks and other waterfowl swam in a canal, and the sounds of Amsterdam’s busy streets reminded me that I was only a short drive from the Van Gogh Museum and The Portuguese Synagogue, one of the most beautiful synagogues in the world.

Going to Amsterdam? Here are our Editor’s picks for where to stay in Amsterdam

Written by Mattie Bamman, The Ravenous Traveler, for EuropeUpClose.com

Photo Essay: A Ramble Down Barcelona’s Ramblas

Terri Fogarty — Thu, 09 May 2013 12:48:59 +0000

If you’re in Barcelona, the place to be – day and night- is the Ramblas, that Plane tree lined pedestrian boulevard that takes you from the Placa de Catalunya direct to the sea. The Ramblas is alive with open-air restaurants, artisans selling their wares, and a multitude of street performers lining the boulevard, all seeking your attention. Check -out our photos of the Ramblas street performers.

Thousands upon thousands of people stroll down the Ramblas every day.

*****

The Fruit Lady

*****

Always ready for photo with a tourist

*****

Suspended in thin air. How does he do it? Can you figure it out?

*****

Angel in White

*****

Don Quixote meets the Flamenco Dancer

*****

Copper Man

*****

Posing with the Bronze Eagle-Woman

Going to Barcelona? Be sure to take a look at our guide for choosing Where to Stay in Barcelona.

Written by Terri Fogarty and photos by Bill Fogarty for EuropeUpClose.com

A Magical Day at Stonehenge

W. Ruth Kozak — Tue, 07 May 2013 13:48:14 +0000

It was on my first visit to Stonehenge some years ago that I experienced the magic of the stone circle. I’d been visiting a friend who was a psychic while I researched for a novel set on the Salisbury Plain. She urged me to go to Stonehenge and stand inside the inner circle to see what psychic and spiritual feelings came to me.

Stonehenge today

I still recall that day clearly, the awesome sight of the great blue stones rising out of the Salisbury Plain. There were few, if any people around. At that time, the stones were not roped off and you could wander freely. I went into the sacred site and stood in the center a while to meditate. The immensity of that moment stayed with me. I only wished I had been there on the Midsummer to experience the glow of the rising sun over the Heel Stone. Still, it was a spiritual experience that would long be remembered.

Sketch of the original circle at Stonehenge

What are the Stones? And how did they get there? There are a lot of legends told about Stonehenge. There are many books written about them including Bernard Cornwell’s novel “Stonehenge” and Edward Rutherford’s “Sarum”. The oldest known depiction of Stonehenge is in a manuscript of the “Roman de Bruit “ by Wace in which it claims a giant helped the sorcerer Merlin build Stonehenge. In the 12^th century Geoffrey of Monmouth also included this story in his Historia Regum Britannicae attributing Merlin as the builder. According to Geoffrey, the rocks of Stonehenge were healing rocks called the Giant’s Dance, supposedly brought from Africa to Ireland for their healing properties. In December 2011, geologists announced the discovery of the exact source of the rock used to create the stone circle as coming from a rock outcrop called Craig Rhos-y-Felin in Pembrokeshire, Wales, nearly 200 kilometers (130 miles) from Stonehenge. There are many stories about how these massive monoliths were brought to the site, perhaps floated on rafts or dragged by men. It’s mind-boggling to think of it and easy to understand how so many tales of ‘magic’ were spun around the origin of Stonehenge.

Stonehenge

Of course, dispelling these myths about the stones, archaeologists believe Stonehenge was built between 3000 and 2000 BC. The surrounding circular earth bank and ditch date slightly earlier than this. Some archaeological evidence found that it could have been a burial ground, as cremated remains have been found there from as early as 3000 BC. It is certain that Stonehenge was a place of religious significance and pilgrimage and revered by the Druids. Since 1986 the site has been legally protected and added to UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites along with nearby Avebury Henge.

I visited Stonehenge again recently. This time the site was swarming with people. Just outside the entrance to the henge is a large rough stone known as the Heel Stone. At summer solstice if you stand within the stone circle, looking north-east through the entrance, you will see the sun rising about this stone.

The Heel Stone at Stonehenge

The public no longer has access to the inner circle except for the summer and winter solstice, or the spring and summer equinox, and you are not allowed to touch the stones, but like the other visitors, I followed the path around the perimeter. At specific points, I stopped and listened to recordings that tell the story of the stones on a hand-held recorder. In many ways, though I did not experience the same ‘magic’ as I had on my first solo visit there, it was a more informative way of observing the stones and learning about their history.

I went to Stonehenge by coach from Salisbury, but you can take day trips there right from London.

Written by and photos by W.Ruth Kozak for EuropeUpClose.com

Remembering St. Francis in Assisi

Guest Contributor — Mon, 06 May 2013 13:43:59 +0000

I am not sure when I first heard about St. Francis. As a Jew, I would not have heard it in synagogue, but in school they taught both the Old Testament and the New. I have always loved the stories. Who would not? He talked to the animals. He lived in a cave, surrounded by them. He worked with the poor and protected them. So when the new Pope took the name Francis, it reminded me of our visit to Assisi on the western slopes of Italy’s Mount Subasio, in the Spoletine valley.

Assisi Panorama

We visited Assisi in the Jubilee year for the church and the new millennium for the world. It was three years after the devastating earthquake, so we were not sure how much we would see. As we drove towards it we could see the ruined castle Rocca Maggiore at the top of the hill. On the slopes of the mountain, the pinkish Subasio stone Basilica of San Francesco shone in the sun. I remember thinking of the biblical phrase, “a city on the hill”.

Rocca Maggiore

We drove past Assisi toward Armanzane and followed the curved, narrow mountain road up the hill to our hotel. I was very relieved that they had a restaurant and that we would not have to drive that road in the dark. The 4-Star Le Silva Hotel is built on the ruins of an ancient 10^th century country estate. Over run by trees and thorny briars it was cleared and renovated in 1983.

We arrived under blue October skies and gazed at the view of the hills, fields and woods. We heard three different versions of what it had been; a monastery, a rest stop for pilgrims, or a manor house. The rooms, named after saints, are scattered around the building, up stone steps or down. Sitting rooms with fireplaces are placed close to groups of rooms.

Our room had a window that overlooked the entrance walkway and one in the bathroom that overlooked the fields. There was a Juliet balcony above the front door with views of the mountains. White sheers and dark green drapes hung from black rods to block out any evening light. Antique furniture stood on stone floors. An iron cross, a picture of pilgrims and a brown framed antique mirror were the only decorations on the whitewashed walls. I was sure it had been a resting place for pilgrims and that I was the most recent occupant of that peaceful space.

The next morning we drove into Assisi and could see winding stone streets running between white and pink stone buildings, with the same ancient views of the fields and mountains that St Francis and St Claire had seen. We parked in the car park and set off on foot to explore. Not just a town of churches, although you can see one or part of one from every angle, Assisi is a working town. It has shops, homes and citizens going about their daily lives while the tourists visit. We visited the Basilica of San Francesco. It is a glorious building with magnificent works of art but we only visited the tomb where Saint Francis is buried.

Basilica of St Francis Assisi - Lightmatter

I was much more interested in the Hermitage on the outskirts of the town. It is built in the woods where St Francis and his followers meditated, prayed and slept in the caves. It is still used, but admittance into the Eremo chapel is for prayer only.

Eremo Statue

We wandered on stone paths that wound through the Holm oaks. It was under one of these oaks that St Francis spoke to the birds. The path had circular tree stumps that act as benches to sit on and meditate. We saw twig and leaf crosses placed in the stone walls. It was a very quiet, cool and peaceful spot.

After our walk around the Hermitage we drove a few miles to the white marble Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli, which is also the name of the small town it stands in. The church dome can be seen for miles around. It was built over a little stone prayer chapel St Francis used. This chapel sits in the middle of the Basilica, in front of the altar. Chairs surround it for services. We walked in during High Mass. They use a screen and video camera. The music in that huge space was angelic, which was fitting, as it is the church of the angels.

Santa Maria degli Angeli

We loved our stay in Assisi. As I was reading my notes about the trip I found this little tidbit. St Francis was not actually named Francis. He was named Giovanni (John). He was called Francis because his mother was French and this was a way to honor her. Whatever his name and the new Pope’s name, Assisi will stay in my memory as a spiritual place of beauty.

Planning a trip to Assisi? Here are some other hotel recommendations in Assisi

Written by Guest contributor Ann Lonstein for EuropeUpClose.com

Ann Lonstein is a freelance writer living in Minnesota. She took her first plane ride when she emigrated from South Africa with her husband and infant son. She has not stopped flying since, and has visited many countries around the globe.
Ann can be reached at her blog, www.everyjourneytraveled.wordpress.com

Greece: Hadrian’s Athens

W. Ruth Kozak — Fri, 03 May 2013 13:42:02 +0000

The Roman Emperor Hadrian is best known for building Hadrian’s Wall, which marked the northern limit of Roman Britain. He also rebuilt the Parthenon and constructed the Temple of Venus in Rome. In addition to these contributions to Rome, Hadrian built several important structures in the city of Athens.

View of Olympian Zeus and Hadrian's Arch

Hadrian was an ardent philhellene and lived for several years in Greece. He was archon of Athens from 125 – 129 AD and during that time he adorned the city with several imperial buildings. You’ll pass by them when you are touring around Plaka.

Hadrian loved literature, both Roman and Greek. He wrote poetry and was familiar with the Greek philosophers. And, he built a distinguished library in Athens that stands today. You’ll find it at the corner of Eolou and Adrianou Streets in Plaka. There was a large colonnaded court with semi-circular recesses in the walls. Part of the west entrance had Corinthian columns that still stand. The central room was the library with niches for bookshelves. The courtyard was laid out as a garden with a central pool. I love to stop by Hadrian’s Library whenever I’m strolling around Plaka, then sit in the tavern by the Eolou Street side and enjoy an ice-cold frappe under the shade trees before wandering over to the Roman Forum.

Hadrian's library

Rome had occupied Greece from 146 BC and by the first century AD, Greece had become a favorite holiday destination for wealthy Romans and a place of exile for troublemakers. The Athenian agora had a new Roman odeon, a covered theatre that seated 1000 people. There’s a bust of Hadrian in the Greek agora, on the west side near the Temple of Hephaestion. It’s a headless torso, but don’t try posing with it or the agora guards will chase you off!

Hadrian's Torso Agora

The entrance to the Roman Forum, which was built during the reign of Julius Caesar, is the Gate of Athena Archegetis. It marks the street leading from the Greek agora. On the side facing the Acropolis there is an engraved edict of Hadrian’s outlining rules and taxes for the sale of oil.

I like to wander about in the Roman Forum. The most intriguing of the ruins is the Tower of the Winds which predates the forum, designed by the Syrian astronomer Andronikos of Kyrrhos in the 1^st century BC. It served as a compass, sundial, weather vane and water clock. Each face of the tower is adorned with a relief of a figure floating through air personifying the eight winds. Just below the Tower of Winds are the public latrines which I always find amusing. At the east end of the forum is an Ionic propylea dating from the reign of Hadrian. It was surrounded by colonnades which opened to shops and offices. During the Turkish period, a mosque was built on the north side that now serves as an archaeological storage room.

Tower of Winds

Probably the most distinctive piece of Hadrian memorabilia is near the busy road junction of Amalias and Syngrou Streets just outside of Plaka where the majestic Arch of Hadrian stands. It was erected by Hadrian to mark the limits of the ancient city and the beginning of Novae Athenae or Hadrianopolis, as it was called. The inscription on the south east side, facing the Acropolis, reads “This is Athens, the ancient city of Theseus”. On the northwest side, toward the tall pillars of the Olympieion, it reads “This is the city of Hadrian and not of Theseus.” The arch was adorned with Corinthian columns but only the bases remain.

Roman Forum with the Tower of Winds

In the area that was Hadrianopolis there are still some Roman remains but the most significant sight are the towering pillars of what is left of the Temple of Olympian Zeus. Various rules had worked on the building over a span of more than five centuries but it was Hadrian who ensured the job was finished and it was he who had it dedicated.

The Olympieion, as it is known, is the largest temple in Greece. The Temple originally had 104 columns but only 13 remain. Hadrian dedicated it on his second visit to Athens in AD 130 and set up a chryselephantine statue of Zeus within the cella as well as a colossal statue of himself. I’ve often spent the afternoon wandering around in this ancient Roman ruin. You will still find remains of some houses and Roman baths.

Roman latrines at the Forum

One of Hadrian’s ties to Greece was his close relationship with a beautiful Greek youth named Antinous. During a journey to Egypt, Antinous tragically drowned in the Nile River and Hadrian was devastated with grief. He made Antinous a demi-god and put statues of him in many places including Athens. There are busts of Antinous in the National Museum, but the most famous one is in Delphi museum. Hadrian had visited Delphi on occasions and made dedications there. The cult of Antinous became very popular in the Greek-speaking world. Some suggest Hadrian created the cult as a political move to reconcile Greece and Rome. He created a form of parliament to unite the former city states across Greece and Asia Minor. He even started a popular fashion, the beard, which symbolized philhellenism. Until then it was fashionable among the Romans to be clean-shaven. This new fashion lasted right until the reign of Constantine the Great.

Antinous at the Delph Museum

Hadrian certainly left his mark in Greece, especially in Athens, which benefitted greatly from its imperial patron. One historian states that Hadrian’s era was the “happiest era of history.”

Going to Athens? Here are our top picks for where to stay while in Athens

Written by and photos by W. Ruth Kozak for EuropeUpClose.com

Where to Stay in York, England

Staff — Thu, 02 May 2013 13:40:04 +0000

When choosing where to stay in York, England, the city’s medieval center calls out with 13^th century city walls and views of the York Minster, one of the most impressive cathedrals in England if not Northern Europe. The following ‘where to stay’ options give preference to centrally located hotels in York as well as hotels that provide free WiFi.

Medieval York

5-Star Hotels in York

Cedar Court Grand Hotel & Spa
York doesn’t offer a huge selection of 5-star hotels, but Cedar Court Grand Hotel & Spa would stand out just as well in London thanks to its fantastic staff and opulent décor. Overlooking the city walls, this hotel has seven types of rooms, each of which come with Egyptian cotton bed linen, Molton Brown toiletries, bathrobes and slippers, air conditioning, and free WiFi. In the spa, a team of experienced therapists offer a range of face and body care treatments, from soothing body wraps to holistic massage, and dining and drinking options, which include fine dining in The Grill Room, the Grand Bar, and the Whiskey Lounge.

Grays Court
Located in a historic heritage property in the center of the city, this hotel helps you quickly relax into a local mindset. Among the hotel’s best amenities, it offers a Jacobean oak-paneled gallery with beautiful paintings and a Georgian dining room with views over the onsite garden and the city. Its seven individually decorated rooms combine period furniture and decoration with modern comfort. Room price includes breakfast, and the onsite restaurant offers inspired lunch and dinner menus. Note that the hotel does not have a gym or spa. Make sure to ask for a room with views of the Minster and the city walls.

4-Star Hotels in York

Best Western Plus Dean Court Hotel
With 37 rooms located in the center of York, this hotel is within walking distance of almost everything, and its staff has earned a reputation for friendly, professional service. Each room features timeless décor with a few tiny, cute teddy bears thrown in and comes with free WiFi, Egyptian linen, television with 30 channels, and more. Four “Family Rooms” include toy chests, DVD libraries, and special food menus, and all rooms facing the Minster are double glazed to keep out the noise of the bells. Unlike many inner-York hotels, this hotel has private parking for a fee. The D.C.H is the only hotel restaurant with York Minster itself as a backdrop, and the Court Cafe Bistro and Bar serves bistro-style cuisine with regular live entertainment.

The Groves
This 4-star guesthouse stands out for its welcoming staff, well-appointed, well maintained rooms, central location, and reasonable rates. Further, it offers free parking and WiFi if you book through its official website. Housed in three historic buildings, the hotel has rooms in a range of sizes, so make sure to make your preferences known. All rooms have deep mattress Airsprung bedding purchased in 2012, and room price includes a good-sized breakfast. Note that the hotel does not have an elevator.

Middlethorpe Hall & Spa
This hotel is two miles outside the city center, but it’s absolutely beautiful, and surrounded by 20 acres of gardens. Once a historic country house, the hotel features 18^th-century furnishings and a complete workout room and spa. Choose from high-ceilinged rooms in the main house; courtyard suites replete with an antique writing desk, sofa, a kitchenette with tea/coffee making facilities, and a large bathroom with double sink and a separate shower; cottage and garden suites; and more. The hotel excels at offering a rest and relaxation, from wandering the grounds to experiencing a “Gourmet Dinner” at the onsite restaurant. The luxury spa has a swimming pool, steam room, sauna, and a whirlpool bath.

3-Star Hotels in York

Hedley House Hotel
With 26 recently refurbished rooms, this small hotel offers elegant, modern, and spacious accommodations near York Minster. Rooms include free WiFi, central heating, and flat, widescreen televisions, and room price includes a very full English breakfast. The onsite restaurant serves dinner daily, and the chef prepares farmer-to-plate-style cuisine. Self-catering, self-contained, fully-furnished apartments are also available, and parking is offered onsite. This hotel does not have an elevator.

Hampton by Hilton
Among York’s limited selection of modern hotels, Hampton By Hilton York clearly stands out for its good value and comfortable rooms. Each of the 119 rooms comes with free high-speed internet (WiFi?), complimentary breakfast, in-room coffee/tea maker, 32-inch LCD TV, work desk, and air conditioning. Amenities include a fitness center and a 24-hour business center; and the staff exhibits a high level of professionalism. Note, if a light sleeper, request a room that doesn’t face the nearby nightclub.

Chelmsford Place Guest House
A traditional, family-run guesthouse, this B&B is just a short walk from the city center and offers a great value. All rooms, while basic, come with free parking, breakfast, complimentary WiFi, central heating, hairdryers, televisions, and tea and coffee-making facilities. For those seeking an even better deal the hotel offers en-suite rooms, in which two rooms share one bathroom. The WiFi can sometimes be spotty, but the staff go out of their way to help you get the most out of York.

Budget Accommodations in York

Ibis York Centre
In general, the Ibis line of hotels tends to offer clean, if basic, accommodations in great locations for budget prices, and Ibis York Centre is no exception. About an eight-minute walk from the train station, the hotel has 91 rooms, all of which are non-smoking and have coffee/tea making facilities and showers.

The rooms could use a makeover. A buffet breakfast is included in the price, and WiFi is offered for a charge. The hotel offers seven outdoor, first-come-first-served parking spaces.

YHA York Hostel
One of the cheapest beds in town, this hostel, also known as the York International Youth Hostel, underwent a massive refurbishment in 2013. Located about a 15-minute walk from the city center, its new facilities include dorm-style and family-style rooms and a communal kitchen area.

Written by staff for EuropeUpClose.com