The season started with controversy as the political unrest in Katmandu delayed many expeditions and created uncertainty that gear and climbers would arrive on time. However it all got sorted as seasoned leaders guided their teams through the bureaucracy, small arms fire and chaos that comes with a country in turmoil. But by early April basecamp on both sides were established and teams got settled in. However there was a huge surprise for this season! The weather was spectactular and teams on the north took advantage of it by aggressively fixing the ropes to the summit (and beyond!).

However, an early omen occurred with the highly unusual death of a Sherpa on the north. He died from HAPE upon returning from higher altitude. The north side was rocked by this unexpected tragedy. Only 12 days later, climbers on the south and many around the world, were in a state of disbelief when three Sherpas were killed in the Khumbu Icefall. A serac collapsed while Sherpas were carrying loads to C1 killing three and injuring several others. In spite of desperate attempts to save their lives, the tons of ice did not allow that opportunity. A day of mourning was declared on April 22.

But climbers being climbers regrouped and refocused on their goals. Teams began going to the North Col and Camps 1 and 2 on the south as they worked hard to acclimatize their bodies to the thin air. With the exception of a few windy days, the weather continued to hold and Himex surprised everyone when 5 Sherpas made the earliest summit in years - April 30th. Meanwhile, similar to last year, the teams on the south took their time, perhaps due to the Icefall tragedy.

While "team" is often used in describing Everest climbing activity, the individuals are often what we remember most. And the names started to become familiar: Paul and Fi, Tomas, Thomas Webber, Mark Inglis, Rob and James, Ken Stalter, Blair and more. Their poignant dispatches brought us into their lives, their hopes and their dreams as they worked toward their goal of a summit. Many had special situations: blindness, amputee, youngest, oldest and some were just regular folks climbing a mountain. But each had a story and told it well. Collectively we all sat a little closer to our monitors as we read their dispatches each day.

The first "western" summits occurred on May 11 with Dave Watson and John Bagnuilo making the summit from the north. Many teams now followed and the rush was on. Rob and James became the youngest Britons to summit on May 17.

But a disturbing incident occurred that forecasted the next several weeks - Tomas Olsson disappeared after he and his teammates summited. They called from the summit telling about a difficult climb in sketchy weather and were starting their dream to ski down from the north. He and Tormod Granheim skied hundreds of meters until they came upon a steep rock cliff. They set a rappel and sadly Tomas died when it failed. His body was found at the bottom of the mountain a few days later.

The British Army attempted to climb the unclimbed West Ridge and was doing it in style. Their world-class website provided a multimedia smorgasbord of maps, videos, audio and reports as they executed their plan with military precision. I felt like I was in the war room with their language, specificity and discipline. It was in that spirit that the conditions were declared too dangerous and they called the whole thing off!

Another interesting story was that of Lance Trumbull and his Everest Peace Project. Lance had worked for several years to bring climbers of different nationalities and religions together for an Everest climb. On May 18, ten summited and brought a welcome message of cooperation and peace from the summit.

Climbers on the south finally reached the South Col and soon were standing on the summit. Leveraging the work of other teams fixing lines to the Col, Jagged Globe worked hard to set lines to the summit and claimed the first south summits of the season on May 17. Meanwhile Paul and Fi stayed the course and fought a variety of illnesses as they worked their way up and down the Hill. They set May 23rd as their summit day based on the weather forecasts and how they were feeling.

But deaths seemed to capture everyone's attention. A climber on the Lhotse Face who's death is still somewhat of a mystery. Three north climbers on separate days died during their descents. But it was the death of David Sharp that caught the world's attention. Media reported that "40 climbers passed the dying man huddled under a rock on their way to summit without providing aid." People were outraged and pundits weighed in on the risks of Everest and the responsibilities of climbers to one another. Even Sir Ed spoke up condemning the climbers and Everest expeditions in general.

But as with every mountaineering death I have ever followed, the initial reports proved very wrong. Climbers did stop and try to help Sharp. Two Sherpas gave up their oxygen and administered drugs to try to save him. They desperately tried to get him to his feet but all this was for not and he passed away.

I hope his death was not in vain for it did bring a new perspective to the differences between climbing on the north and the south. Perhaps the industry that benefits from all the paying climbers will take notice that they need to make some significant changes to how they run north side expeditions.

In the midst of this media frenzy, an Australian couple made some news of their own. Fi made the summit on May 23 (as predicted) but her husband Paul turned around at the south summit due to oxygen issues. Their website was flooded with comments of support, questions and praise. Paul tried again only 24 hours later but he was spent. Paul and Fi captured our imagination and inspired us all with their dedication and courage. It was a bit of good news in an otherwise sad season.

And the sadness continued. The south teams completed their summit bids with excellent success. Many of the majors put almost all their clients on top and returned safely - several had monster expeditions of 20 climbers. On the north a few teams remained including the DCXP/Project Himalaya and the 7 Summits team for Sight on Everest with Thomas Webber. They waited out another round of poor weather and made their bids. Tragedy again - Webber died as he climbed higher and within 12 hours another climber, Lincoln Hall was reported dead. That made 12 dead this season - the most since the 1996 disaster - and all in perfect weather.

But never discount the human spirit. The final teams making their bids found Hall alive! The one that reported finding him alive gave him some tea and continued on their way to the summit. The 7 Summits team along with Jamie McGuinness, DCXP, mobilized a rescue and within a few hours 12 Sherpas were at 8700m. They brought him back down, including over the technical and dangerous Steps. Soon Hall, suffering from HAPE, was at the North Col and the next day to ABC. With the return to thicker air, drugs, rest, hydration he is reported as doing well in spite of severe frostbite. Amazing!

So, that is it. I don't think there are any more teams going for the summit on either side. I don’t have the final count but 2006 saw hundreds of summits of both sides. No new routes were opened. What started as a dangerous season with guns and politics turned more dangerous with altitude and illness. Death took precedent over summits. Climbers plotted their climbs with care and some with appropriate conservatism. The well established, long term stable operators on both sides did not see death of their clients. The independent climbers took the toll.

Mountaineering is a dangerous sport. It attracts people are fiercely independent and sometimes too stubborn for their own well being. But climbers are attracted to summits like bugs are to light. I am not sure what we learned in 2006 or even if there are lessons for the observers from climbing Everest. It is a sport like many others that people enter voluntary and understand the risks. If anything, it is clear that steps could be taken on the north to improve the safety for all climbers - guided, solo or independent. But should those steps be taken?

I for one say yes. Climbing deaths are always sad and devastating to the families. In some ways the sport has become accomstomized to them. Some of the most famous names in the sport are of the ones whhave died doing what they love: Hall, Fischer, Boukreev, Lowe, Boukreev, Lafaille. Some of these died trying to save others. Some worked to promote safety for their sport. Some were just climbers.

2006 has the opportunity to be a wake-up all for the industry the way 1996 was. In spite of a tremendous increase in guided expeditions the next tens years, fatalities went down.

How will the industry respond this time?

It appears that Hall, similar to 1996 survivor Beck Weathers, was given up for dead but survived the night against all odds. More on this later today but thankfully this climber has a chance of surviving.

Media around the world have reported on the death of solo climber David Sharp and comments such as "We came across a chap sheltering under a rock, who was perhaps hours from death. That was probably only 21/2 hours into the climb. ... Trouble is, at 8500 metres it's extremely difficult to keep yourself alive - let alone keep anyone else alive."

The media has focused on "40 climbers passing by without providing aid". Actually that is not true. Sherpas tried to give Sharp oxygen but all he wanted do was "sleep" - a sure sign that death was near - especially at 8000m. Sadly I have helped bury climbers above 7000m and often there was nothing anyone could have done to save the person. But our world likes to point fingers and find the villians.

I commented on the deaths a few days ago but I have been thinking a lot about this since then, especially the huge difference between the north and south sides. Please let me think out loud for a moment.

First - saftey net: The south side has a long history of major commercial operators who use the same Sherpas, camps and routes year after year. Yes, this is similar on the north but the operators on the south have established an informal network committed to helping one another in an emergency - no questions asked. The network was demonstrated again this year with the rescue of injured Sherpas and climbers in the icefall. This network includes IMG, AAI, Adventure Consultants and others. The south also has a group medical clinic that provides assistance to anyone.

Second - costs: The permit costs charged by the Nepalese discourage price-sensitive climbers from climbing on the south. The low Chinese permit charges have encouraged the lowest cost operators to focus on the north thus attracting, sometimes, climbers who need more guiding help but do not get it. Seven of the eleven deaths this year were climbers who were not on major commercial expeditions.

Third - discipline: The Ministry of Tourism in Nepal manages Everest with a tight first - financially, ecology and safety. For all the jokes, the Liaison Officers do pay attention and report problems. Operators with poor records can be banned. Followers of Everest know the names. Such discipline is sketchy on the north side.

Fourth -competition: The south has several majors who compete for the business year after year and most climbers always ask about their safety record. On the north, there is one dominate commercial operator who has such power that they fix ropes and dictate schedules. Their record is perfect for clients and they serve as a model for other operators. But the north needs more large scale commercial operators to bring order to the chaos.

Fifth and finally, the climbers themselves: They bring a lot of the problems. While it is seductive to be the first to do this and that; mountaineering is not an X-Games event. It is dangerous, deadly and real. I am afraid that all the commercialism has made Everest seem like a Colorado 14er, Aconcagua or a nice climb in the Alps.

While I personally think Hillary has taken his argument too far in that "... it is just ridiculous having 15 or 20 or 30 expeditions all attempting the mountain at the same time." He does have a fair point in comparing his time to now "...We would have definitely abandoned the ambition to reach the summit in order to get the other person to safety." But should another team have to do that?

Mountaineering is a sport of intense independence. It is a sport where the participant can find oneself completely alone, without food, water and shelter in mind numbing cold and flesh-freezing winds. The mountain does not care. It is really a test of the climber, not the Hill. Should a climber who has never climbed Everest be allowed to climb Everest? A silly question? Well in so many words, that seems to be the feeling of many in the industry. But that robs people of their dreams - the heart and soul of alpine mountaineering.

Sadly many operators will take anyone on an expedition if they have money. There are four tiers of operators: 1) established commercial companies with long histories and stable ownership, 2) budget operators who run safe, no-frills operations, 3) local ground agents who provide basic logistics and Sherpas for the lowest cost and finally, 4) the upstart operators without a track record. The point is you can die on any of these but some have a better record than others.

I am actually very dissapointed about this year and for the sport I love. I am dissapointed that the largest mountaineering websites just repost dispatches and rarely comment or offer solutions on what is happening (except for mounteverest.net). I am dissapointed that the large commercial operators continue to post rosy statements about their team’s success and ignore the cancer in their industry. I am dissapointed that climbers continue to put their lives at risk based on the lowest cost operators. I am dissapointed that climbers die when it could have been prevented.

Climbing is a wonderful sport that delivers challenges and rewards rarely found in this day. It should not be the domain of the "professionals" nor the wealthy. But governments, operators and climbers should dedicated themselves to running safe climbs with proper safety nets, qualified staff, sufficient resources and a moral compass.

I wrote an editorial called "When Good Guides Turn Bad” a few years ago that was focused on the problems with guides and how they treated clients. While I do believe the quality of the guides has improved, the industry continues to have serious and deadly issues. Everest 2006 - North has shown that there is still a long way to go. And it is up to the operators to solve it. They have the power, the knowledge and vested interest to make it happen.

Now will they? Until then it will remain "climber beware".

http://www.alanarnette.com

About half the team will depart after Broad leaving 14 of us to attempt K2. We will move basecamp a mile up the glacier and prepare for K2. The theory is that we will be very well acclimatized after Broad thus can make a swift climb of K2. That is the theory! I have researched this Hill and spoken with a lot of people including some with K2 experience. They all agree it is the hardest mountain they ever attempted and most say they would never go back. There are four camps that follow the Abruzzi Ridge. Two famous sections are Houses Chimney between C1 and C2 and the Black Pyramid above C3. The Chimney is a steep 150' rock climb at 20,000' and the Pyramid is about 1200' of very steep rock and ice. My primary goal is C2 with C3 if I feel great.

The team is well balanced with a lot of experienced climbers. Eleven have been to Everest, there are a combined 20 summits of 8000m mountains amongst the 22 climbers. And two climbers have been to K2 before. Finally we have three women on the team, two who will attempt K2.

Some of you have been to Everest with me via my website. I have been working on improving my dispatch system and now have the ability to post text, pictures, audio and video immediately and directly from the mountain. This has taken as much time as my training! But all this is based on my satellite phone functioning properly. In any event, I hope it makes following the expedition more enjoyable. There is an automatic notification system available if you visit the site where you enter your email and then you will receive an email every time a new dispatch is posted. As always I will write honestly about what I am feeling and try to bring you a little bit of mountaineering in Pakistan.

I always enjoyed the people and children in Nepal and am eager to see the Pakistani kids. There has been so much said about that part of the world that one of my goals is to see for myself what the people are like. I truly believe most people are good and decent and only want the best for themselves and their families. I will try to capture that element of the human spirit through pictures and my writing. They have been through a lot in the past year with a devastating earthquake that killed 75,000 people and left 3.5 million homeless. Everyone on the team is donating money to earthquake relief.

OK, so that is the background and plan. I will be honest, I am very nervous about this climb. First, it is another climb above 8000m (26,000'). My last time there was less than ideal :) I have taken a very different approach to my preparations this time including gaining weight assuming I will loose 20 pounds or more, also I have not put the endless miles running, like I did for Everest. My knees just won't take it anymore. I have pushed hard on my training climbs including a nice climb up Pikes Peak with my great friend and Colorado climbing partner Patrick. My pack was always loaded and I have stressed my body over and over every weekend this year. I still put in some running and weights but tried to pace myself. I am continuing my training up until I leave.

I am working with Everytrail to have them repost my dispatches along with a map showing the location similar to what they did for Everest this year.

Thanks for reading this and I hope you follow the climb. More on Everest soon as well as my thoughts on the controversy on David Sharp death and the amazing difference between the north and south sides this year.

http://www.alanarnette.com

Paul Adler is a case study here. While not exactly "quiet" considering his and his wife, Fiona's website; Paul did something that even the professionals rarely attempt. By now most readers know the story. Paul and Fi, married couple from Australia, worked for the past year to get their bodies in shape to climb Everest on the south side. They were on a logistics permit with IMG, hired their own Sherpas and did not rely on the IMG western guides. They arrived in basecamp early and began the acclimization process. But Paul caught a throat infection delaying their climbs. Fi also showed some signs of catching the infection running around basecamp. They both showed wisdom and patience by taking their time to get well and not pushing their bodies.

Soon they got out of sync with the other climbers but made the trip to C1 and back, then C2 and up the Lhotse Face, the weather delayed them before another trip through the icefall and to C3 - the final test before a summit bid. After a few days in BC and watching team after team summit, they identified a weather window and targeted May 23rd as their summit day. The world began to follow their story. They even received a letter from the PM of Australia wishing them luck!

The evening of May 22, Fi, Paul, Da Sona, Mingma Ongel started their climb about around 9:30. Everything was going fine up to the South Summit, 28700'. Both climbers were tired but Paul had oxygen issues and made the decision to return to the South Col while Fi and Mingma continued. As FI reported in her excellent summit night dispatch "... the only option being for him to go down. What a heart-breaker. Of all the scenarios we'd thought might happen, this was certainly not one of them. He urged me to go on saying "you've got it in the bag!". Which was anything but how I felt at the time." Fi went on to summit in good style and return to C4 in great time. Her strength to continue her dream, to push on without her partner, to stand on top of the world - and return safely - she lived the word courage.

She met Paul in their tent.

I remember retuning to my tent in 2002 and 2003 after turning back just below the Balcony. I sat alone in the dark shivering from the cold. My Sherpa offered hot tea which I gladly took but he went off to bed - as he should have. My thoughts ran the range but the primary emotion was pure exhaustion. I feel asleep only to wake up to the sunrise and thereafter to my teammates returning. As I downlcimbed both years, the enormity of what I had tried set in as did the total and complete fatigue in every part of my body.

I do not know what Paul and Fi said that night or the following morning but Paul made the decision to try again - 24 hours after his initial bid. Paul started out but turned back just below the Balcony. But that is not the point. He did not give up. He continued to put everything he had into reaching his goal. He pushed his body - and mind - to the limit. He refused to accept ... He showed a unique courage. He is a mountaineer, a climber.

Paul and Fi were not the first, not the fastest, not the youngest or oldest. In fact that were not the bravest to climb Mount Everest. They are regular people, living regular lives and doing courageous acts. An inspiration.
http://www.alanarnette.com

Both Sight on Everest, Harrry Kikstra/Thomas Weber and team plus Project Himalaya/DCXP are at C2 on the North. They are looking at a bid in a couple of days.

IMG reports that 3 climbers and 3 Sherpas are on their way on the south right now. This includes Paul Adler.
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In the "never give up department", Paul Adler is going back up for another try at the summit. He has oxygen problems last night as he and Fi made their bid - Fi made it. She has written an excellent summit night report on their site - well worth a read. This is the advantage of going with a large expedition such as IMG. They have the spare resources (oxygen, sherpas, food, etc) to support a second attempt. If Paul and Fi had gone wit a local ground agent only, another attempt, while not impossible, would have been unlikely. So another long night for those us following him! Climb safe!

http://http://www.mountainguides.com/everest06/everest06.html
http://www.adlers.com.au/
http://www.alanarnette.com

They followed Will Cross, who on his 3rd attempt proved diabetes is not the debilitating disease it once was - with proper care. Also Dave Hahn's team made the summit at 4:20AM according to Paula Stout, former Evereest BC Manager.

Mary has reported that both Paul and Fi have made the Balcony. They left the South Col around 9:00PM and she reported them at the Balcony around3:00Am (all local times). They are doing well and the weather is good according to another report from Eric Simonson at IMG. There are several climbers going up so the trail should be well established. If all the climbers continue on the current schedule look for summits starting around 8:00AM Everest time on Tuesday, May 23rd. The return trip typically takes about 6 hours so they should be back in at the South Col in mid afternoon, maybe 3:00PM.
http://www.adlers.com.au/

http://www.alanarnette.com

During the trip we have seen success, tragedy and sometimes farce. We are packing up to leave for home, so I will report at greater length from Kathmandu in a few days time, when we will have had time to think about our experiences and digest the meaning of it all.

An excellent summit report is from the Everest 2006 team on their Blog. Well worth a read a it provides some details of the north route not normally discussed. Well done guys!

The season is not over with DXCP/Project Himalaya now looking at a summit on Thursday, May 25. And of course the British Army is still on the West Ridge. They cancelled their attempt when they discovered dangerous snow conditions that most likely would result in avalanches along their route. No word on when they will try again. Stay tuned since this will be a first and make for some exciting reading and viewing of pictures and videos on their site - the best one this year.

Tomas’ body has been flown to Kathmandu by a helicopter from Nepal. The fact that he was found (at 6700 m right below the Great Couloir where he fell) and that his body is on the way home is a positive thing among all the sadness about his loss. A helicopter evacuation from the North side of Everest has never been accomplished before. His family, close friends, teammates, Nepalese trekking agency and the Swedish embassy have all played an incredible positive role in making this happen, giving Tomas the honor he deserves.

Fri Flyt (Norwegian)
Student.se (Swedish)

Student.se
Follow the link to student.se/tomas, which leads to a credit card form.

Thank you.

Fredrik, Tormod, Martin and OIof

This is not all that unusual since the best teams with experienced climbers and Sherpas often listen to their inner voice as well as the Everest weather forecast emailed from Seattle or Sweden. None of the methods are right or wrong and in fact the most successful teams (defined as returns home safely and in one piece) use all available information to be make the best decisions. In any event, best of luck to Tap Richards and team.

The British Army is moving towards the summit right now as well. Their site show an ETA in 9 hours!

Lance has posted another excellent video of his Everest Peace Project team on the north summit. Worth a look for sure.

I just saw where Joost has posted that Tomas' body has been found. This is a tragic end to a brave adventure. My thoughts are with his family and friends

May 20 , 2006 - Update on the South Side

Thanks to a former BC manager on a 2005 expedition, there is some updated news to report. First several teams that were thought to have attempted a summit last night have retreated back to C2 or even BC based on some high winds and forecasts. WIll Cross is now at C2 and is now looking at a Tuesday AM summit. He is reported to be sounding strong. Dave Hahn also took his team down. The 23rd now looks to be the day for the south.
http://www.alanarnette.com

Will Cross, also on the south, has kept a low profile this year on his third attempt. The diabetic is reported to be at the South Col so should be going to the summit tonight - weather permitting.

Two large teams are left on the north. Both make comments on the dangers on the north. Harry Kikstra's sight on Everest team of 24 reports they will go for the summit the morning of the 21st "... so far we count 10 or 11 dead climbers for 2006, while many people have not even started their summit bid. Too many take Everest not seriously and notable is that quite a few fatalities are from low-cost, budget expeditions, without proper sherpa support. It makes us think a lot ..."

Project Himalaya/DXCP is at ABC "...Many groups have been going earlier this year and there have been a much high incident of accidents so far. We are hopeing to find a little later, warmer, less windy and safer window to summit in. Its a hard game waiting though. We did get a lot better forecast for next week that we will be watching. From here in ABC we are 4 days away from the summit once we leave."

On the north it must look like a Yak sale with hundreds of yaks hauling barrels of gear and waste down the mountain and valley. Remember that all human waste is now carried out of the large base camps in an effort maintain the mountain. This is true on both sides. Himex notes the exit in the last newsletter of the season.

With the mountain starting to get quiet a few thoughts of those left. The north side still has over 50 climbers it appears working towards the summit. On the south, it is far less In fact maybe less than 20 including Paul and Fi. This is a good new, bad news scenario. The good news is the route is well established with strong steps kicked in at the most difficult spots. The line is obviously fixed. But there has been a lot of stress on those lines and anchors so climbers must give an extra tug and visually inspect suspect anchors. There will not be crowds clogging up the route at the difficult sections but there will not be extra climbers and Sherpas available to help in an emergency. So the last waves must be very committed as well as prepared to be more self sufficient that the early or teams in the middle.

My best to all of them.

This has been one of the most deadly years on Everest in a decade. I will take a look at those deaths and explore what went wrong and what to consider about future Everest expeditions next week. Also a preview of my own adventure to Broad Peak and K2 starting next month.
http://www.alanarnette.com

They didn't start the descent until 1.20 pm, when they got off the top pyramid and down to the balcony. Tormod started to trevers to the skiers left on the balcony, about 200 meters, Tomas skied second. They got to a gully, narrow and steep, skied down to a snowpatch above the rockband that is above the Norton couloir. Tormod skied first and when Tomas came down they saw that Tomas left ski was broken behind the binding. Bad new on Mt Everest North side. According to Tormod, Tomas got a bit stressed about this and they tried to fix it with climbing gear and ducktejp.

Well, they got to get down so they started to look for belay points for the abseil. Not easy, the rock was very solid and there was no ice under the snow patch. The solution was 2 snowsticks and one ice axe as anchor for the abseil rope. Tomas had the broken ski so he abseiled first (cause he would be the slower one in the Norton couloir). After 30 meter abseil, the anchor snapped and Tomas fell the 10-15 meter left down to the Norton couloir. This was about at 5 pm. Tormod tried to catch the anchor after it snapped, but of course for no use. Tormod did not see Tomas fall cause of bad weather and the rock was slab.

A few minutes after this accident Tormod broke his oxygen mask, so from now on Tormod was with out O2. Tormod down climbed the rockband with an abseil rope he didn't trust. Then he skied down the Norton couloir, and found Tomas ice axe and crampons. We think Tomas lost consiouness when he hit the ground after the fall from the abseil, cause Tormod did not see any trace of Tomas trying to stop his fall in the Norton, no trace what so ever in the snow. So, Tomas probably fell 2500 vertical metersdown to the mid Rongbuk glaciar.

Tormod skied down to the North Col. This was a sad day for us, and we are still very, very sad, but we must not forget that Tormod still did something no skier ever has done.

Himalayan Project/DXCP have hunkered down at ABC on the north. They are looking 3 days before another attempt.

I am not sure where the MountainLink team stands after their comments on Wednesday "We have enough spare oxygen and spare food that in case we don't get to go on the 20th, we can go on the 21st. We have pretty much committed that that's our window. We're heading for a summit then on the 20th or the 21st. If it goes beyond that, we're done and we'll back out." AAI are stopped their climb and have returned to the South Col. Another excellent decision by one of he best, in my opinion, Dave Hahn.

More later today.
http://www.alanarnette.com

Here follows a message by Viviane Seigneur, Tomas' girlfriend:

I am asking to people on the North side of Everest to consider helping to find Tomas. I'm an alpinist and I know the attraction of the summit, but isn't trying to save someone more noble that to reach the summit? For the moment, I know that a lot of people are high on the mountain, but even just a few people helping would be very valuable. From the North col, people can help by following the "Messner road" and search the area with binoculars, because there is a chance that Tomas' fall was stopped there. If you need more information, or have more information, please contact me via the messages on this blog, or email to team@everytrail.net Thank you, Viviane Seigneur

Tomas Olsson Missing

It is a sad day for most of the mountaineering community and for those who follow Everest climbs. After a successful summit Tomas Olsson disappeared during a rappel in a dangerous area of the Norton Couloir on the north side. He and his partner, Tormod Granheim, successfully summited and started their dream to ski down Everest. Tomas fell when an anchor came lose and he has not been located yet - almost 24 hours after the fall. The story is now well covered on several sites. It is hard to understand this accident from many angles but there are many positives. A young man who is an obvious expert in his sport living his life large and full. Family and friends providing strong support for his lifestyle. Courage to attempt the most severe challenges. I followed his writings on his blog over the past year as he trained in France for this adventure. He is full of optimism and energy.

As far as I know from other reports the search continues.
http://www.alanarnette.com

Tormod and Fredrik Schenholm are now heading towards the foot of the North Face to look for Tomas.

I am very sorry to have to report this sad news, and I am extremely sad that the information I received yesterday turned out to be incorrect. Let's hope for the best. I am now going to make phone calls to Everest Army basecamp, that is located near the foot of the North Face, to see if they can be of any help.