Tell us a little about Lauba.

Lauba is my second home but also a new home for art in Zagreb. I am a curator at Lauba but I actually prefer to call myself a host. We did not name it People and Art House by accident. It was created as a place where people can socialize, interact and have fun.

Lauba features current art through an active program. It changes its exhibitions each month and organizes many interactive events. We communicate directly with our audience, pull on everyone’s sleeve and talk about contemporary art in Lauba’s way.

Zagreb has lots of “raw” industrial spaces but most sit sad and abandoned. Lauba is a pioneer when it comes to converting them into creative hubs. Can you think of any similar spaces in Zagreb?

Yes, I can think of two beautiful industrial complexes with new functions. Gliptoteka is a gallery in the heart of Zagreb, situated in a former tannery and leather factory, with a beautiful courtyard and impressive exhibition spaces over several thousand square meters. Founded in the 1930s, it grew into an institution whose program tells a story of the history of Croatian sculpture, but also much wider.

Another space is Katran, which is the oldest bituminous mass factory in this part of Europe. Two complete ‘lunatics’, in the most positive sense of that word, turned a part of the industrial complex into a club. Katran was also the venue of one of the most beautiful weddings I have ever attended, which ended with jumping on a gigantic trampoline with the first appearance of light in the sky before sunrise.

Conversely, Lauba is an unusual hybrid which transforms with incredible ease from an exhibition space into a conference room or party venue or a movie theater or dance arena. We have played all these roles in the past couple of months. This space is a platform for creative life in our part of the city, and each detail has been adapted to it.

We are open until 11pm every day of the week, and there is a bistro in our lobby that serves great coffee and carefully selected wines. We have created a space in which we love to work and spend our time, a space according to our taste and that is also what we offer to our audience.

Tell us a bit about Lauba’s art collection and the current exhibitions.

Lauba has at its disposal the largest private contemporary art collection in the country, the Filip Trade Collection. However, the idea was not to create a space for exhibiting the collection, but to create a vibrant place that will offer contemporary artists an opportunity to present their work in the best light.

A second important guiding principle was to have constant change in order to give the audience a reason to come back. Therefore we decided to change a part of the exhibition each month, and to present one of the up-and-coming artists.

In the ten months since the opening we have changed nine exhibitions and presented the following artists: Morten Andersen, Lovro Artuković, Ivan Fijolić, Ivana Franke, Kristina Lenard, Bruno Pogačnik, Marko Tadić and Zlatan Vehabović.

One can always see something new in Lauba. The rhythm is crazy but incredibly fun and challenging on the operational level. We have only two people in our organization and an army of hardworking volunteers. Every three months we train new recruits, try to pass on our knowledge. They are the face of Lauba.

What are some of your favorites currently on display at Lauba?

Currently on display is an exhibition by Ivan Fijolić. Not only is this the largest solo exhibition by this emerging sculptor, but it is also the largest solo exhibition in Lauba so far. The new series of sculptures by Ivan Fijolić, titled NEO N.O.B., refers to the art of Socialist Realism, however without its pathos or nostalgia.

This artistic production was marginalized in Croatia in the last twenty years, with sculptures from this period systematically destroyed. Nearly three thousand monuments have disappeared without a trace. Fijolić brings them into the spotlight once again but with a great deal of humor and a decent dose of cynicism and irony.

Tell us about a couple of up-and-coming artists we should be on the lookout for.

This is an excellent question, and here are my favorites for a five-star list, in addition to Ivan Fijolić, whose work I just mentioned.

Zlatan Vehabović is an artist I have collaborated with since university. He is a figurative painter whose works I noticed because they were narrative, woven from meaningful elements in which he used explosion of colors. His paintings are not merely objects placed on a wall, but a window to hearing, seeing and feeling his stories. Music influences him so much that somehow you get the same feeling when looking at his paintings as you do when listening to great music.

Lovro Artuković is one of my favorite painters, the only one on this list who is over 50. Ever since he moved to Berlin he has been painting new vibrant paintings, with the energy of Berlin in them. Theater and music scene protagonists inspire him, though he does not depict them literally. He uses phenomena from art history still relevant today and combines it with everyday life, investigating what the painting can become today, at a time when new media offer more economic and faster ways of creating. He is not only up to date with politics, sports and arts, but also always conscious of his own position he chooses to take.

Bruno Pogačnik has become one of the most prominent artists, indispensable for his clear focus and high-quality production. He is a process-based artist who nurtures collaborations with friends and professionals from different fields. His collages, animations, sculptures and performances all stand before us as spaces of celebration, a teeming world that causes memory and life to spring forth.

Marko Tadić, on a constant quest for knowledge, creates his personal histories through found objects. They trigger his own imagined histories and possible narratives. He works in his studio, listening to audio dramas, watching low-budget horror movies and listening to contemporary composers. His computer is an archive of paranormal and non-utopian materials. He skillfully uses different media and recycles objects which are carriers of collective memory (postcards, souvenirs, little black books, address books etc).

Ivana Franke creates installations which bring into question the relationship between perception and materiality (illusion and reality); Ivana challenges space and the temporal nature of images. Installations are usually made out of nylon lines and (LED) lights. Berlin-based Ivana puts the viewer in medias res, in the center of a process of perception; every work is meticulously produced to fully provide this unique experience. She usually collaborates with specialists from different fields, such as physics, medicine and mathematics.

Kristina Lenard researches the relationship between photographic image and its real reference. She makes symmetrical installations in her studio and then photographs them, exhibiting only the photographs in light-boxes. She is very precise in her work and constructs portraits, still lives or landscapes.

Who comes to Lauba?

We like to think that that we are a gathering place for young and urban people, but it turns out that grannies also follow us on Facebook! Just kidding. We truly are a platform where everyone can find something for themselves. People mostly like to visit us on weekends, when they can relax and spend several hours with us. People also pop in after work, and the free guided tours are always full in the evening. All the events start at 8pm and sometimes we party until the morning hours.

Would you share your three secret spots in Zagreb?

Zagreb is full of young creative people at the moment. I would recommend that instead of buying unimaginative souvenirs people take a peek at one of the following wunderkammers in the heart of the city.

Prostor is one of the first concept stores in the city that started following the designer scene in the region. They have the best clothes, accessories, magazines… They try to cooperate with top-quality and creative people and provide a platform for them. In its courtyard, there is a private gallery Marisall, one of the rare galleries that represents young artists and shows very interesting works.

I would also definitely recommend the store I-gle to fashion lovers, a duo whose designs have been sweeping me off my feet for years. They have been dressing an army of architects and product designers for years in their distinctively designed and meticulously produced pieces, made of carefully selected materials.

i-gle store

Describe your perfect day in Zagreb.

I can rarely afford to treat myself to a perfect day in Zagreb but if I could it would look something like this. After a long walk with my dog in Bundek Park in Novi Zagreb (Zagreb’s new part of town across the Sava River), I would sit in the car with my sweetheart and go to the city center. We would have lunch at Lari & Penati (Petrinjska 42A), a small unpretentious restaurant, where dishes are prepared with fresh ingredients and paired with fine wine. I recommend their chocolate cake with caramel filling, a pure sensory explosion! Dogs are welcome to this restaurant, which is a big plus.

Lari & Penati

A short stroll in the city center usually ends with having coffee with friends on Cvjetni Trg (Flower Square) and buying a bouquet of spring flowers. Afterwards it is nice to spend the evening in the Upper Town, where my favorite location is the Museum of Broken Relationships, which knows how to put a smile on one’s face over and over again with its approach, exhibits and atmosphere. Not to mention that it is one of the rare places in the city that serves excellent spritz. In addition, the Museum has a gorgeous gift shop where I love to buy little things for my friends. And it is especially useful if I remember someone’s birthday at 9pm. The Bad Memories Eraser is my favorite.

A bar regularly frequented by architects, designers and artists, a place that is always completely crowded, is Sedmica (Kačićeva 7a). This small bar designed in the style of Zagreb’s old interiors has become a cult place, situated between the Academy of Fine Arts and the Faculty of Architecture. It is one of the rare places in which cigarette smoke, noise and crowds contribute to the vibrant atmosphere.

Across the street from Sedmica is a recently opened small gallery, Greta, which with its informal openings brings freshness into the neighborhood almost every week.

Can you describe a typical Zagreb moment?

Zagreb Film Festival has been this moment for me for years now. The festival takes place every October, with everyone gathering in one of Zagreb’s oldest cinemas at the very heart of the city. The equation is simple: great movies, great parties, great people.

Any strong stand about Croatia’s entry into the EU?

In the professional sense, I am looking forward to the inclusion into a larger and more global art market; young artists have already started to cooperate with commercial galleries around the world and our networking will become much easier. The fact that the art market will start to develop in our country is exciting in itself.

We will also be forced to change the way cultural institutions are financed. Institutions still mostly depend on the support of the city or state. Now comes a time when private investors will become more interested in contemporary art and will play a role in its life.

And personally, I am mostly looking forward to importing a Honda CN250 from Italy, a maxi scooter from the 1980s which is so cool and popular that it was being produced in Japan until recently.

To escape the city for a day, where do you like to go?

I discovered the beauties around Zagreb only recently, within a fifty-kilometer radius, either to the south of Zagreb, in Turopolje, or west of Zagreb, in Zagorje. Many of my friends and family members have nice small houses surrounded by nature, places to escape from the city. And I can see that there are lots of lovely houses for rent as well.

My parents have a ranch south of Zagreb, in Turopolje, a plain rich in various plant and animal species. Close to it is the holiday resort Ključić Brdo with rolling hills, pastures, orchards and vineyards and the breeding site of wild pigs, horses, mouflons, roe deer, deer, pheasant and all sorts of other animals.

One of the most beautiful houses in the world, or at least west of Zagreb, is Kućica. Their motto is “Replace asphalt with grass, smog with clouds!” The old wooden cottage has been restored, and even an occasional old dresser has been painted in a romantic manner. One can spend the night in the wooden attic, on the small beds on pallets with a modernist sewing box as a nightstand. In the yard there is the inevitable grill and wooden benches… It doesn’t get any simpler and more beautiful.

What’s your favorite spot along the Adriatic, your own special beach hideaway?

I spent a great deal of my summers with my parents in different camps all over the world and along Croatia’s coast. My father received a camper as a gift and we drove it to the places where our friends would be staying over summer holidays. For me, camping is the ideal way of spending a holiday, especially now when after a long time I again have a dog. My sweetheart is also the most capable camper I know, after my dad, of course! Last year we traveled by car along the coast and we would spend a night or more wherever we felt like. The Adriatic coast is made for this. We have wonderful memories of a small family auto-camp in Nin, right on the beach, with a surreal view of Velebit in the distance. Nin is peaceful, one can rest and eat well there, and Zadar is nearby, making it the perfect base.

Our goal was to reach Primošten and my sweetheart’s family house. On our way down we stopped at the first-ever Terraneo Music Festival in Šibenik. It immediately became a must destination for young urban people, and we are planning on going there this year as well. This year’s line-up includes The Roots, The XX, Stephen Malkmus and the Jicks, The Ting Tings, The Notwist, Dječaci, Gatuzo… All in all, five days of guaranteed fun with great food at the stands, great DJs, ecological workshops and a beautiful camp.

I owe it mostly to Tomo and his Kamene Priče, a bar-restaurant-performance space where conversations and meals last for hours, kindred spirits always gather and you never really want to leave. So I keep on returning for more, always treated to a sliver of peace, a retreat from this crazy life I lead. Here, I talk to Tomo about how it all started, what it’s all about and where it’s going.

Tell us about Kamene Priče (Stone Tales).

It’s a concept, a message, a way of life that I introduced when Kamene Priče first opened in 2001. The idea originally came out of the way I lived for many years, as a consequence of the life I led. When I first arrived to Bale in 1997, stumbling upon it by accident on my motorbike, I had the first encounter with these ancient stones. I was fascinated by the houses here, by the urban plan and architecture of Bale.

Much later I found out that my house was built 1250 years ago on the same spot of an earlier house which existed in its spot over 2000 years. So, civilization existed in this very place for over 3650 years, uninterrupted. Life unrolled here all along, so I named my place Kamene Priče. I believe they are exactly that, Stone Tales.

Istria has lots of beautiful stone houses, so full of history. What made you choose Bale, out of all the places?

After living in different cities of Europe for many years, I was looking for peace. I found it here in Bale. It also has a really convenient location, close to two airports (Trieste in Italy is 90km away, Pula is 24km away), to the highway that links Istria to continental Croatia.

Photo by Tomislav Čuveljak

In short, Bale has the infrastructure required to maintain good quality of life – shops, butchers, a bank, a post office, a clinic, a pharmacy… All that in a tiny town of under 900 people.

Also, Bale are located very close to the sea. Just a couple of minutes’ drive away are some of Istria’s most beautiful and untouched beaches. It’s an almost virgin stretch of coast.

Tell us a little about the happenings at Kamene Priče.

In the inner courtyard of Kamene Priče there is a small stage that I call Throne Theater. This is where various events take place – from plays to art performances of different kinds. Most importantly, this is where Last Minute Open Jazz Festival was born. I started it six years ago, and it has since become one of the most important festivals in the region. It has no sponsors at all – I finance it myself with the help of a few friends.

Photo by Tomislav Čuveljak

The festival takes place in early August (August 1-5, to be precise) every year and attracts musicians from all around the world, more and more of them each year. Some big jazz cats passed through here and left with nothing but good vibes. We remain with the energy they leave, silence returns after the last note is played and the only music heard is that of the church bell tower. People in Bale fell in love with jazz and, in turn, jazz fell in love with them.

Can you describe a scene that somehow represents the spirit of Kamene Priče?

Kamene Priče have the most amazing energy. As if they vibrate at 440 hertz, with an almost perfect pitch. I love rainy days here, the long beautiful autumns, the smell of the fireplace, of permanence. The thick walls act as if they separate me from the world, put me at ease… In those moments of solitude, music and fire, I often write stories and novels. Here, I feel connected with some universal knowledge out there, linked up to some strange accumulator of meaning.

Photo by Tomislav Čuveljak

The most interesting moment happened to me here one autumn, as I was sitting by the fireplace and writing a story. Suddenly, out of the blue, through my body and mind passed a set of pictures from my entire life. All the reasons, all the realizations, all the small epiphanies happened right in front of me. As if in the strangest of dances. After that moment, I never ever smoked a cigarette again, drunk a glass of alcohol, took any medication, or a cup of black tea. Nothing at all that can influence my state of mind. This doesn’t happen to people just like that.

Food is also your forte. What do you like to prepare at Kamene Priče?

When I cook, it’s not me cooking. My hands may be preparing the food but it’s the tradition that creates the dishes. My approach to cooking is very simple. Everything I make has to be fresh – just-picked vegetables and fruit, fish caught that very same morning… I serve olive oil from my own olive grove nearby. I don’t use additives, poisons of different kinds. I am careful with the use of salts and sugars.

Photo by Tomislav Čuveljak

What you eat comes from the radius of a couple of hundred meters. Today, for example, we have a lamb stew slow-cooked with carrots, white pepper and red wine. It’s also the season of what we in Croatia call “blue fish” so I may prepare tuna steaks served on a bed of just-picked wild arugula.

Who comes to Kamene Priče, what kind of a crowd?

Travelers, intellectuals, musicians, painters, creative types all like to frequent my place. They love the quiet jazz that always plays in the background, the books that line the shelves inside, the fact that it’s easy to meet people. People here aren’t ashamed to sit down and strike up a conversation with strangers. It’s never crowded, there’s always a low-key quiet vibe…

Photo by Božidar Raos

What I offer people here is a concept, as I explained earlier. Another way of life that they can observe. And I’m always happy to answer questions and chat about the advantages of living in this way.

Are there any similar places elsewhere in Croatia? Kamene Priče’s siblings, so to speak.

Yes! There’s a lighthouse called Struga on the island of Lastovo, in southern Adriatic. The lighthouse keeper Jure and his wife Nada who run the place are the happiest couple I’ve ever met. Their lives fascinate me endlessly. They are filled with love, with meaning. I send all my guests to them.

Would you share your secret spots in Istria? Places you love to go.

The whole of Istria is magical. My favorite place is located one meter from my fireplace. I honestly don’t know a place more special. I do also love the half-abandoned village of Kotli in central Istria, near the tiny town of Hum. Here, the beautiful Mirna River tumbles through carvings in the limestone, creating a series of shallow pools. There’s also an old watermill… Gorgeous place.

I know you also spend quite a bit of time in Zagreb. What’s your take on Croatia’s capital?

Zagreb is a city that gave me the large chunk of my education. And I enjoyed it greatly. It’s an instrument that you need to know how to play. It’s hidden, subtle, quiet, safe, and somehow invisible. It’s unlike any other city. You really need to know how to walk it, where to find its hidden gems. What I love about Zagreb: traditional cooking, the most beautiful spring season – and stunning women!

What’s your favorite spot along the Adriatic, your own special hideaway?

The entire stretch of coast, from Istria to Montenegro, is incredible. The road that follows the coast is one of the most beautiful I have ever seen. I love driving along the road, stopping in any town or village that strikes my fancy and finding a nice little restaurant shaded by a large tree trunk.

I also love Šibenik, think it’s Croatia’s most beautiful city. And the waterfalls in nearby Krka National Park are definitely worth checking out.

Any strong stand about Croatia’s entry into the EU? What do you think are the pros, and what are the contras?

I don’t support anything that doesn’t support human evolution. The European Union in its current state doesn’t offer any alternatives in the arts, philosophy, education… It is ignoring those who are rich with knowledge but poor in terms of money. Just look at Greece, Sicily, Portugal. The value system is dishonest and without scruples. Different special interest groups, uneducated individuals and projects without true meaning are leading the EU today. I feel sorry for Croatia in this context.

As a reaction to it all I started a collective called Akademija za Sve (Academy for Everything). We now have over forty brothers and sisters, who are all focused on creating a sustainable alternative to what’s happening in Europe today. We just founded a center on a small island near the bigger island of Lastovo, where we have lots of interesting projects in the works.

As a fan of street art, I have since been following the Museum’s trajectory and love where it’s going. It has definitely given Zagreb an edge and hope it continues to do so. Here, I chat with Ivana, the founder, about Zagreb, street art, and more.

Tell us a few words about the Street Art Museum.

The Street Art Museum, aka MUU, has no fixed space, operating hours, dedicated curators, or pompous openings. Its longevity, its expiration date is also undetermined. It all depends on additional interventions and reactions of the public, on other authors, and on sanitation departments.

Its footprint goes beyond urban intervention alone and survives much longer than the artwork itself because it alters awareness and perception.

Photo by Domagoj Blažević

The inspiration for MUU came out of despair. I was quite disappointed by the way Zagreb looks, with the type of art that was being represented in the media, with the kind of art reaching the masses… So I was thinking about things I can do to change that. That’s how MUU was born and realized in 2010, with the help of my friends.

The first project was called the “New Face of Branimirova Street”. We gathered about 80 artists and painted an old wall, 450 meters long. After our intervention, Branimirova Street became a unique city attraction. It has since appeared numerous times in commercials and music videos, and became the favorite photo subject for tourists visiting Zagreb.

What was the latest Street Art Museum project?

Last year we shifted our interest to the city’s suburban area called Novi Zagreb. We brought art to the Dugave neighborhood with more than 12,000 people, where the only cultural institution was a public library. Some of the world’s famous street artists came to paint in Dugave – Phlegm, 108, Dem, Jana & JS, Mentalgassi… The project was a huge success. More than 1000 people came to see the opening, many of them in Dugave for the first time. So we really got to change the energy of the neighborhood.

Photo by Domagoj Blažević

I know you always have several cool plans up your sleeve? So, what’s next?

It’s always lack of time that seems to be the biggest problem when it comes to realizing my plans. I would love to organize two more traveling festivals and do a publication. We are also producing two films so there is a lot going on. Check back with me in one year to see if I was lazy or not.

This year I am still thinking about what to do, where and with whom. But one thing is certain: in September Zagreb will get some new exhibits in its first Street Art Museum.

Photo by Domagoj Blažević

Who are some of your favorite graffiti artists in Croatia right now?

I love everyone who is persistent in creating their work on the streets. With that in mind, I would say Puma 34, Sretan Bor, OKO, Artuditu and Ninja Tiger. But then again, I couldn’t not mention Lunar, who is one of the first graffiti artists in Croatia, and Miron Milić who works more in his atelier than on the street. But every new MUU projects changes that.

Street art is such a controversial topic. It must have been a thorny road trying to convince those “in power” that street art should get its proper place in the city.

It was the hardest thing to do. Even the money wasn’t such an issue. We are still fighting this battle since there are so many different decision makers involved in the process. There is not much to say about the subject, except that I would love to be the only one in charge.

Would you share your three “secret spots” in Zagreb? Places you love to frequent.

I love Zrinjevac park, the Britanac square – neither are much of a secret. I have a fetish though, for a cafe called Roda (Petrova 8), which means Stork in Croatian. It’s a small place with late 1970’s decoration, just across the maternity hospital. It’s always crowded with nervous future dads. It’s a bar with the most number of celebrations during any given day. Celebrating life is the way to roll.

Describe the ultimate day in Zagreb – where do you go, what do you do, what do you see?

The most fun I have in Zagreb is when I go out of the city, to the woods. If I have the time I go somewhere in Zagorje for a day trip.

If not, I take a walk through Dubravkin Put to Cmrok (another city park) and from there back to Britanac square to have breakfast and coffee with my friends. Sunday is reserved for Hrelić flea market. Nighttime fun includes a good concert or a play or something spontaneous that includes a lot of strong alcohol.

Photo by Domagoj Blažević

Any strong stand about Croatia’s entry into the EU?

I am all for it. I would love to live in a more “western” society here in Croatia and together with our fellow Europeans be part of the process of creating new political ideals that will rule our society after the death of neo-capitalism.

To escape the city for a day, where do you like to go?

I love to go to Grešna Gorica restaurant, and the castle of Veliki Tabor, both in Zagorje. I also really like the Kezele farm in the region of Moslavina and, close to Zagreb, the Mrežnica River, with a series of lovely swimming holes.

What’s your favorite spot along the Adriatic, your own beach hideaway?

All of the beaches along the south part of the coastline which you can approach only by boat. Most of them are charted on the navy maps. Or you can discover them while sailing. I think you can figure out why these spots are my favorite ones so I won’t say more.

Siniša took me to hidden spots I never knew existed, even though I spent several summers vacationing on Hvar in the 1990s. I could tell he loved and lived the island, in every way possible. So, here goes a Hvar chat with Siniša.

Tell us a little about Secret Hvar.

I believe there’s a real difference between tourists and travelers. Secret Hvar is a company that serves travelers. Tourists pass through, see and do the tourist things, have some fun and leave. Travelers also pass through but in a different way. They feel the place, stop to breathe its air and touch its culture, taste its food and drinks.

Having worked in different hotels in Hvar I understood that tourism on the island is changing very fast. In the past we had large groups of tourists staying for two or even three weeks. Nowadays people come to Hvar for two to three days.

To keep up with the times I decided to start my own agency which offers daily tours for small groups as well as individuals. The most popular tour, Hvar Off-Road, is a mixture of culture and adventure. People are starting to call it a “five-senses tour”, since it really shows them the beauty of Hvar. They can hear my stories about the island’s rich historical and cultural heritage. They can touch and see that all of that is real. They can smell different plants growing on the island. And, finally, they can taste the local food and wines.

As a young boy I was fascinated with local history. I grew up in the old part of Hvar town, inside the city walls, just below the fortress surrounded by historical places. I think people can feel that when I’m telling them stories about Hvar, those stories are coming from the heart. I give them the insider experience.

I call my agency Secret Hvar because I want to share my knowledge about hidden parts of the island which are not listed in guidebooks, those places that are rarely visited by tourists and even some of the locals don’t know they exist. Many of these spots are inaccessible by regular tour buses or rental cars. I want to tell the stories and legends known only to islanders. I want visitors to experience the real Hvar.

In recent years, Hvar has become known as Croatia’s party island. I know you’ve been actively promoting the other sides of Hvar, such as culture and adventure. Tell us your top picks of alternative Hvar, so to speak.

Last year an American tourist who booked my Hvar Off-Road tour through his cruise ship asked me why we promote Hvar as a “party island” when we have so many other things to offer. Unfortunately Hvar became known as the place to party in recent years and it is very difficult to change that image overnight.

The parties are organized for only one month during the high season. But we live and work here all year long! Hvar island is so much more than just a party island. We have three things on UNESCO’s list, for example. The Hora or Ager is the best preserved agricultural field in the Mediterranean dating back to ancient Greece. Next to it is Stari Grad, the oldest town in Croatia, founded 384 BC by ancient Greeks.

We also have a 500-year-old tradition called “following the cross”, a procession which runs every year on Maundy Thursday. It takes place in six villages in the central part of the island. In each village, the procession starts at 10pm and moves clockwise. The processions never meet on the road. Each comes to the church of the neighboring village, where it stops to pray and sing. Then it continues on to the next village, all night long, just like that. Until they come back to their own village at 6 or 7am.

There’s another thing on the UNESCO list, the lace made of fiber from agave leaves, which are handmade by Benedictine nuns in Hvar.

This year we celebrate 400th anniversary of the oldest public theater in Europe, which is situated in Hvar town. And let’s not forget that Hvar was the main Venetian harbor on the eastern side of the Adriatic and it was on the crossroads of merchant routes. The influence of Italian Renaissance was very strong in Hvar so it became the center of culture in the 15th and 16th centuries.

Another thing: our wine-making tradition of more than 2500 years. Plavac from Hvar island is one of the best wines in Croatia. Every year winemakers from Hvar come back from international wine fairs with medals. The gastronomical scene of Hvar is also very good, showcasing some of Croatia’s best restaurants.

There are also many activities, such as sailing, sea kayaking, diving, climbing, hiking, off-roading, biking, windsurfing…. As you can see, Hvar island is much more than just a “party island”.

You’re in the business of making Hvar’s secrets available to visitors. Would you share your favorite recent discoveries on the island?

I already mentioned that I grew up in the old part of town so all those historical and cultural monuments, all those aristocratic palaces are part of my life. But every day I’m surprised to discover something new, some inscription in stone that I didn’t see before…

Recently, for example, I discovered prehistoric Illyrian burial mounds and ceramics. I’m lucky to have an archaeologist as a friend so every day I’m learning something new about my island.

Can you describe a typical ‘Hvar moment’?

He, he… a typical Hvar moment is for sure a coffee break on the main square. During that time, you can forget about finding people in their offices. Life on the island is stress-free, everything moves slowly.

Give us your view of tourism on Hvar and in Croatia. Where does it stand, where is it going?

In recent years, visitor numbers are close to those in the 1980s, when tourism was at its height. Unfortunately many people saw this new rise of tourism as an opportunity to make “fast money” by building apartments for rent. So now we have so many apartments but they are full only in the high season.

There are some crazy ideas to build even more. So in that way it is not sustainable. We wanted to move from so-called “mass tourism” to “quality tourism” but by building new apartments we are going where we have been during 1970s and 1980s when we had mass tourism.

I think that we do need more luxury villas with pools because we have less than required. What we also need for sure are better connections with the mainland, an airport and direct flights from the States to Dalmatia.

Luckily, our visitors are doing a great job promoting Hvar to their family and friends. My greatest satisfaction is to have returning guests.

Which three places on Hvar do you consider the ultimate tourist traps?

There are just places that I can recommend more than others. To the people who want to enjoy the real Hvar and relax, I suggest avoiding the high season (July and August). The so-called low season is very nice. You can enjoy Hvar as it really is, you don’t have to wait for a table in restaurants, you can enjoy talking to locals who are not so busy as they are during high summer.

Give us a few of your favorites on Hvar.

Now you put me in an ungrateful position, since all restaurant owner are my friends. I will tell you a few of my favorite places to eat: Zlatna Školjka, a slow food restaurant owned by Ivan Buzolić, a demanding gourmand with extensive knowledge of cooking in ancient times.

I love Gariful, the best fish restaurant on the island. Stori Komin is a restaurant in the abandoned village of Malo Grablje, 6km from Hvar town owned by Berti Tudor who prepares the island’s best peka (meat prepared the traditional way under the bell-shaped lid which is covered with live coal).

Konoba Menego in Hvar Town serves tapas-style meals. In Stari Grad, I recommend Stori Mlin and Eremitaž. Don’t miss Kokot in the village of Dol; their lamb and home-made cheese is just delicious. There’s also DiVino, a restaurant with an amazing vista out to the islands and a really good wine list.

My favorite hotels are Villa Nora in the old part of Hvar town and Hotel Park. There are also so many nice private accommodations.

The only thing I can’t tell you is my favorite beach. That’s a small hidden beach, my favorite place to relax and read a comic. Luckily, on Hvar island we have many nice and hidden beaches so everybody can find their own.

Which month on Hvar do you love the most?

May is for sure one of my favorite months. Lavender is in bloom, the nature smells nice, there are people from all parts of the world but still it is not so busy. September is also very similar to May, but instead of lavender there is the wine.

Would you share your three secret spots elsewhere in Croatia? Places you love to go when you’re not on Hvar.

Vis island is one of my favorite places, a still somewhat secret Dalmatian island which has strong tourist potential. I also think the Dalmatian hinterland, known as Zagora, is an amazing place. Every time I go there I’m very surprised with the beautiful nature and historical heritage.

But my very favorite place is still Hvar island with the small archipelago (called Pakleni Otoci) in front of Hvar town. There are still many secrets to uncover there…

I fell in love with this rural retreat close to Zagreb when I first “discovered” it through word of mouth a couple of years ago.

The owners, Ivana Boras and Vanja Blumenšajn, both work in advertising in Zagreb. In their spare time and with low funds, they created this special hideaway that’s totally unique in Croatia. They run Kuchica so lovingly and creatively that I just had to pick their brains.

Tell us a little about Kuchica. What and where is it, and how did it all start?

Kuchica is a traditional oak-wood cottage that’s about 100 years old. It’s situated 15 miles northwest of Zagreb, where it was actually moved from the region of Turopolje thirty years ago. Once we found the house, we fell in love with it, its surroundings and the peace it offers.

This part of Croatia, called Zagorje is a very picturesque region, known for idyllic landscapes of rivers, old castles and an excavation site of a 100,000-year-old Neanderthal man.

It all started very spontaneously. We basically did what we felt had to be done in order to make it more enjoyable. One thing led to another. The work never stops; there’s always something to do or redo. Our friends, and even guests, fall in love and join in. We love organizing “workshops”, painting furniture, fixing the shed, planting or just barbecuing and hanging out in the sun.

There was no model we were trying to imitate. We enjoy design and tried to mix everything that we liked on an almost nonexistent budget. Most of the furniture was found in the cottage, bought in flea markets and yard sales.

We tried to keep basic colors to emphasize the simplicity of peasant life. The idea behind Kuchica is the explore the times when life was simpler, maybe even more beautiful and healthier.

We also have a small orchard – with apples, peaches, oak trees – and we grow a small organic garden with tomatoes, onions, peppers, peas, strawberries, herbs…. This year we are starting a little raspberry experiment.

Having visited Kuchica, I think it is absolutely adorable. I know you’re always “cooking” something new. So what’s next for Kuchica?

We are never out of ideas, just sometimes out of free time. Right now we are organizing a virtual humanitarian flea market , where people are donating and buying things and services. The twist is – instead to the buyer they are paying to the NGO they support.

Someone gets rid of the stuff he doesn’t need, someone gets something he always wanted and the NGO gets support that enables them to work. It’s a win-win-win situation! It is pretty successful on Facebook and right now we are trying to push it to the next level – a website or even to different counties. If you like the idea, please contact us.

Something that never goes out of fashion in our lives is cooking. We are always experimenting and trying new things. Expect to get an invitation to the opening of our small restaurant in the near future!

Also, we are always in search of old furniture. Chairs are our absolute obsession. Our most recent crush is enamel dishware. If you know where to find some, do let us know.

Kuchica is so close to Zagreb but it feels worlds apart. What made you “leave” the city to start this labor of love in the countryside?

We work in advertising and have a pretty hectic daily routine. Have you tried spending a whole day in the office? We love being out in the open, laying in the grass or listening to birds chirping instead of deadlines ticking.

We feel balance is very important and Kuchica is our way of compensating for all the stress of our everyday jobs. We enjoy it too, as we feel people are meant to be in closer contact with nature.

Are there any similar places elsewhere in Croatia, with a comparable sensibility? Kuchica’s siblings, so to speak.

If you find out, please do let us know. We are sure there are and would love to discover them and meet their owners. There are some more commercial places that we know of but we somehow feel they lack heart. Our unwritten rule for Kuchica is to do everything as if we are doing it for ourselves. If you don’t like it, we do take it personally.

You obviously love nature and countryside. What are some of your favorite wilderness spots in Croatia?

Oh, there are so many. We really do believe that Croatia is amazing. The mountains of Gorski Kotar and Velebit, the more or less secluded islands like Lastovo, Mljet, Dugi Otok, Cres… we could go on forever. Even the most touristy places have their beauties, although we usually try to avoid them and look for our secret hideouts.

What’s your favorite season at Kuchica?

All year round. Well, it depends on your mood. Late spring is beautiful because everything is in full bloom, green and young, and it is still not too hot. September brings autumn colors and fresh organic fruits. Is there anything more romantic than lighting a wooden stove and watching snow fall in the winter?

Which three places in Croatia do you consider “tourist traps”? Places you’d tell your friends from out-of-town to avoid?

It depends on the things you like and the type of a traveler/person you are: a party animal, adrenaline junkie or a poetic soul, for example.

Like we mentioned, we are not fond of crowded touristy places like, for example, Vodice or Malinska. We definitely prefer southern to northern Adriatic, islands to the coast. In Istria, we recommend exploring its interior and then hopping south for a swim.

But why stop on the coast? We always encourage people to explore other parts of Croatia like Gorski Kotar, touristy but must-see Plitvička Jezera, Velebit and eastern Slavonia.

You both still live in Zagreb so can you describe a typical ‘Zagreb moment’?

My great-aunt says you can tell a city by its market. We love sunny Saturday mornings when you can browse through the crowded market picking fresh vegetables for lunch. Then with full bags and newspapers, we meet friends for coffee and make plans for the rest of the weekend.

Would you share your three secret spots? Could be anywhere at all in Croatia. Places you love to go.
We do like you, but there is no way we are telling you this. Part of the fun is exploring and finding your own.

OK, if you twist our arms we would say Proizd (a small island one hour away from Korčula) on the coast. Inland, we love the mountain retreat of Zavižan and the village of Krasno (be sure to try their cheese škripavac) in Northern Velebit National Park .

We also love Vagabundina Koliba in the village of Lukovo in Gorski Kotar. Try their wild herbs with polenta or go crazy and let them surprise you with some of their specialties.

That’s all we’re saying. Google it, or even better – go there!