Every Travel Tells A Story

Shiva, Spirituality and Sumeru / Kedarnath

2011-10-25T02:58:00.000-07:00

O' ruler of Kedar, the Lord supreme

I come to you for thy blessings,

For the sins I have commit, for the penance I seek.

For the eternal beauty of thyself and the creation,

I bow my head and seek refuge in your shrine,

May the light of your glory bathe me,

Let the mountains standing say it,

Blessed is your abode,

Blessed are the feets for they bring me to you,

Now that I have left,

but I never have left truely,
Call my name again O' Lord,

And make me bow to you again.

The word 'Kedarnath' through search on Google shows about 1,590,000 results. For the ample info that is available on Internet, I planned to only upload selective pics that I have taken during my journey.

My experience, I have summed up already through the Dedication above. However, the spiritual experience is unique and can not be summed up in words, and depends person to person. Try to get one for yourself.

Garud-Chatti and Kedar Parvat

Kedar-Dome

Way to The Shrine of Kedarnath

Massif of Sumeru

View from Ram Bada

Bells at Bhairav Temple - 1kms from the Shrine

Bhairav Devta

Itinerary followed:

Delhi - Guptkashi - Gaurikund (on eve of Dusshera 2011)

Gaurikund (evening 4 pm, raining) - Ram Bada (7 Kms) Night halt @ Kali Kamli Dharamshala

Ram Bada - Kedarnath Shrine (7 kms) Night halt @ GMVN

Kedarnath - Gaurikund. Took Holy Dip in the Kund. Gaurikund - Guptkashi (30 kms) by Jeep. Guptkashi - Rudraparyag (70 kms) by Bus. Night Halt.

Jeep to Rishikesh at 6:30 am. 11 am bus to Delhi. Reach by 7 pm.

Himanshu

For more pics, kindly visit: www.flickr.com/myth_drinker

The Immortal Tulips / Buda Madhmaheshwar

2011-07-29T23:56:00.000-07:00

This year has been fortunate and very kind to me. I have had good dose of hiking in the mountains. But I aspire more. Madhmaheshwar (2750 mtrs.) is long due, and its been on my list from quite sometime. The feeling grew more than ever after going through Bhavik Thaker's flickr pics of the place. I was completely mesmerized with the pic that has fog all over the place and clouds floating in the valley and glaciers in the backdrop shining all-white. It reminded me of the Rudranath trek that we did in August 2008.

Imagination started to catch up fast. Mountains. Glaciers. Greener than green forest. Swollen water-falls. And, gushing Madhu Ganga. Picture after picture. And the day was set. 15th July night. We left Delhi late around 1 a.m from ISBT Kasmere Gate. Me, Rajeev Ji, Gagan, Sanjeev & Gaurav. The bus-ride between Delhi to Haridwar was smooth. I managed to get some sleep though in pieces. We changed bus at Haridwar. Haridwar-Rishikesh stretch was a complete misery. It rained hard and bus was in worst health, with water oozing from everywhere. A couple of foreigners onboard were excited looking at the real India.

From Rishikesh, we booked a cab to Ukhimath for Rs. 3000. Then from here boarded G.M.O.U bus for Uniyana at about 4:30. Due to the cracked road, the bus had to stop before Uniyana and a km long steep trek awaited us to climb. We reached Uniyana at 6:30 p.m. And halted for the night, retired to sleep after a spicy hot meal. It was still pouring, though slow. Next day, 6:30 am, we started our trek. At places, there were waterfalls on the road. Big enough for us to think how to cross them without water getting into our shoes.

We reached Ransi around 9 a.m chit-chatting and walking slowly, covering merely 3 kms. At Rakeshwari Devi temple we paid our homage. And took our breakfast. We resumed our journey again to reach Gaundhar that was only 6 kms away. It was all-down and passed through the forest on serpent-trail trek that must had some 8-10 bends. It was here the rain grew heavy and drenched us all. We soaked all of it happily. Soon clouds floating over the valley, and gushing of Madhu Ganga down below could be heard. Fragrance of Earth mixed with mist and cool wind could be felt. The air dived into my lungs through a long breath.

We continued walking, and reached here around 12 p.m very easily at our moderate pace. It is here we ate our lunch. What a hearty meal it was! Hot and light, with lots of ghee over it. It was a traditional Garhwali dish that was soft greenish fluid just like palak. I was the first one to eat, in the kitchen besides the fire. The owner, Bharat Panwar offered to make some dal and sabzi for others on the pretext that he had made that traditional food for themselves so some taste-buds might not approve such food.

Everybody ate heartful except Gagan who is choosy in what he eats. And journey once again resumed at about 2 p.m. 2 kms after Gaundhar was the bridge that leads you to Bantoli. From here the actual trek starts. And we found ourselves getting to the other side of the hill. 9 kms- all climb but beautiful valley-side that opens up but only at the temple which is a plateau. Thick fog engulfed us but the downpour looked refreshing. We maintained our pace and tried to minimise breaks. And we reached Khachrakhal where we sipped upon piping hot tea at a hut-shop. It was raining heavily.

Then came after another 3-4 kms the place called Nanu. Another tea break, we had, chitchatting. Now that the valley has started to broaden but still supressed with the dense forest. But it gave us clear glimpse of the mountain glaciers to our right, north-face. It was like breathing got easy. Soon the rain had stopped. We reached another spot called Maikhamba after walking another 3kms. From here the distance was 3 kms to the temple but the forest grew wilder. The time was 6:00 pm almost and we were worried to reach the temple before sun sets and night stretches itself.

The sunset looked stunning. Molten gold shining over the peaks. Sweet breeze over touching our wet hairs. And occassionly I would shiver with the chill. We were wet and tired by now. The walk that was once pleasant till Gaundhar, now suddenly started to appear monstrous. The path always somehow seem to have yet another bend. And the bends kept on turning us and climb got steeper. We were now kind of fed up with walking. And wondering, if we would be able to make it to the temple today.

Gagan offered some toffees that really saved us from that sinking feeling. But the fear of the dark loomed. A very thin ray of the Sun that is too fainting slowing and the endless jungle that offered bends and bends every now and then, of course not without hiccups. We could hear the voice of our breathing. The last stretch was like - a road that never ends. And we were like - a rider who remains hopeful to see his destination at the very next bend. But in our case, the enthusiasm had died by now and hopes were getting feeble with every step.

Before this last ray of the sun could disappear and before the moon winks at us and takes up the charge for the night; we heard the temple bells. Overheard it once again, and then once again. I could hear the voice over the loudspeaker praising chants of Lord Shiva. Enough for us to charge our legs. And the sound of the loudspeaker echoed once again. Temple was merely at the distance of 300 mtrs now. We rushed to attend the evening ritual - arti - that has started. A quick wash at the tap next to the temple - in the icy cold water that sent shivers to the spine. Inside temple, were few people. An elderly couple, who passed before us. And some locals who are stationed at the temple itself, including the young South-Indian priest. It was damp inside the temple, infact overall the place was cold and damp. I realised this sitting over a cots-wool mat observing the temple from inside. In the sanctum sanatorium, only the priest and his aide could enter. Slowly and steady, i found myself lost in the sweet aroma of dhoop and the chants dedicated to the lord Shiva. Next moment I was crying thinking that Lord took 2 years to invite me to His abode, His holy shrine named Madhmaheshwar, despite my best efforts.

My urge slowly and steadily came down, after a while and I felt at ease. Priest offered us all prasad and the ceremony came to an end. We took refuge for the night in the mandir samiti's dharamshala and didn't care to negotiate with others who were offering more cheaper and better options that that. Afterall we all were dead tired.

Next morning, we started early to visit Buda Madhmaheshwar to see Chaukhamba some 2.5 kms trek though a bit steep. It was a plateau - a big ground with two small kunds housed by rainwater.

There was also an ancient small temple made up of stones of Shiva, and at some distance to its right-side another small temple of Bhairava. We spent some good 2 hours here clicking pictures, catching reflection of peaks in the water, but above all to it, trying to look through the clouds the mount of Chaukhamba. That is what we were there for. On a clear sky day, one could see mighty Chaukhamba and the town of Guptkashi from here. For us in that sense it was not a lucky moment. Because Chaukhamba never unveiled itself. We could just manage to get a glimpse of it with our camera ready and hooked onto it. It mostly remained wrapped well in the layers of thick clouds over its mount. That was heart-sinking, but nothing could be done about it. It was getting cloudy and slowly drops from heaven started to pour down. This was the time we knew we should step down. But it never rained, just the tiny drops scaring you every

now and then. I was completely lost into the beauty of the place. Greenfields. Open skies. Glaciers. Clouds. And a small beautiful temple that is often worshiped. I am sure God must have loved it here. God must have selected this place carefully and so it deserves to be holy.

Chaukhamba, a glimpse that I could capture. But visibility was quite poor and waiting for it to show up - the chance was almost negligible. We started to come back with first few drops on our head. We paid our homage to Shetrapal Devta whose small temple is just 200 mtrs away from Madhmaheshwar shirne. It is on the route from the temple leads to Nandikund, via Pandu Sera famous for bugyals.

We came back to the temple. While on our way back I was delighted to see many tiny colorful flowers on the carpet of the meadows everywhere, mainly purple, maroon and yellow. I have seen them before and everytime I have seen them, I have liked them. These were like thoughts, floating around everywhere, in every sight, in every turn, on every bend, on every trail. Yet they won't be the main thing that we would want to see. Not the main thing or the reason - why you are here. Yet not the one of the things that gets noticed every now and then or discussed with peers. No one does that, and tulips don't complain. They stay where they were, they die where they were and they re-born where they were.

One after another, many small flowers different colors, different shapes yet not a line that describes them and not a word that glorifies them. Not in this blog, not anywhere that I have sinked my eyes into. Good things in life are such, often un-noticed. Now that I've come back - its not the Chaukhamba, Clouds, Mountains, Rain or for that matter the temple, but those tulips that continue to live inside me, dominate my mind all the time. Tulips are your part of good life, cherish them to bloom.

Itinenary:

15th July Night: Delhi-Rishikesh by bus. Reached by 8 A.M.

16th July: Cab to Okhimath for Rs. 3000; Bus to Uniyana. Reached by 6 p.m.

17th July: Uniyana- Ransi (3kms) - Gaundhar (6kms) - Bantoli (2kms) - Madhmaheshwar (9kms) - TOTAL 20 kms approx.

18th July: Buda Madhmaheshwar - Gaundhar.

19th July: Gaundhar-Uniyana-Ukhimath (by shared jeep). Ukhimath - Rudraprayag (by bus). Rudraprayag-Rishikesh (cab for Rs. 2200). Rishikesh at 9 pm. Boarded bus to Delhi.

20th July: Delhi@6 a.m. Office by 10 a.m.

Back In Groove/ The Pindari Experience

2011-06-27T21:49:00.000-07:00

After Rupin Pass trek in June 2010, I almost didn't do any trek. Though small treks were quite much in the routine but the one that counts is our visit to Yamanotri on Deepawali. It counted not because it was trek, but because we have been on the run throughout. Then we did in Jan 26th, 2011 Khalia Top in Munsiyari but that doesn't count as a trek, it was rather a road-trip. So i was longing for one good-long-glacial trip but somewhat soft.

Pindri Glacier

Hukum (L) & Bunty (R)

The idea was to breakfree, relax and enjoy the naturewalk in the pristine quietness away from city's hustle-bustle and ofcourse the mountains. Lately, i've been working hard, to complete my PhD thesis besides office the under eye dark circles and bulge on my body will tell you more. And i thought, what best could be than Pindari Glacier to cleanse the mindbucket and offload the trash. During this season of time, in April, office load is maximum - presentations, game plans, budgeting, reviews and new thoughts and ideas for planning and execution for the new financial year.

God, i hate April, and pray if i could skip this month on my calendar. But God didn't pay any heed to my wish. And i reminded myself the quote, God helps them who helps themselves. It is then i know i have helped myself and people like me to break-free with this Pindari plan. It's like back in groove, after a while.

Danu's Guesthouse at Vaccham

Our new partner this time was Hukum Singh Negi, a fellow whom i have known for over 7-8 years or even more. He readily agreed to accompany. Not solely for the sake of trek, but partly also because he had his in-laws there - the place called Bharadi, some 28-30kms from Bagheshwar town and close to Saung - our trekking point. Around 12 midnight, we four started from Delhi. At Anand Vihar, we must pick Gaurav's uncle who is already waiting for us. Chacha ji is a man of paitence, he cleaned up the windsheild with passion but he talked less, mostly with Gaurav.

First View of River Pindar after Khati

Later after my conversation with him, i got to know that he goes very often to Bhimtal, where he is building his house. His plans look familiar to me - to shift from Delhi along with his family. To both - Delhi looks ugly. And we developed a bond while conversing. We reached Bhimtal, without any sleep, talking and listening to the songs. We took light breakfast with tea after we freshen up at a cottage cum hotel in Bhimtal on the road to Naukuchiatal. I enjoyed every sip of it. The feeling was great, and we streched ourselves for 15 minutes on the beds. The journey resumed. The mosit air was refreshing. After sometime, I pulled up the windows, the air was chill. Crossed Almora around 10 am, the road strech between Khairna and Almora was still rough. We reached Bagheshwar around 2 p.m. Gaurav drove well and we just stopped once for the noon meal at a small hut who served us hot tasty lunch topped with lemonade to digest it well. The sun was up and hot. Bagheshwar was all choas - traffic noise, cluttered, hot and madenning. I quickly got down to purchase the torch and we fled the town in haste. Buradi was the next destination.

We stopped for Hukum who wanted to say Hi to his in-laws. Abut 4:30 pm we were at Saung and a little over Saung we parked the car in the lawn of PWD resthouse. This is a kilometer back from Loharkhet. My advice to those who are interested in taking their car to Loharket is that you should avoid it taking to Loharkhet and better part at Saung itself or take SUV's or Jeep.

The Bends In Pindar

Small cars fear the damage for their being too low in gap with the road. Bunty drove it really well and cautiously. We parked our car, we found a Mahindra Jeep and quickly decided to take the jeep further to reach Loharkhet KMVN which was another 1 km. During our conversation with the driver, we found that he has plans to go a little further to Loharkhet. He discussed with us that if we take some jeep further and reach Vaccham, a day will be saved. Also the trek from Loharkhet to Dhakuri top is some 8 kms which is tedious. And, we decided to take the jeep with us to Vaccham. Some 2 hours of drive on a really rough road which is not yet a road but in the making for sure. All dusty and sleepy, we reached Danu's small guesthouse, at Vaccham after walking some 2 kms. The view it offered was marvellous and simply irresitable. To left was Nanda Devi and Maiktoli and to right was Panwali Dwar. The timepiece showed 7:20 pm and we decided to night halt at the guesthouse. Early morning, i clicked the Maiktoli. I was completely mesmerised by the view. That is exactly what my eyes were longing to see. My heart was melting with each ray of sun as it started to emerge over the cut of Panwali Dwar. It was all i wanted. By now all were up and got ready in not much time. We relishly ate the paranthas and rejoiced the talks while sipping over the next round of tea. The father and son - both treated us well. And we promised to comback after our Pindari excursion to stay another night leaving our some of the items at Danu's place.

Pindari Kids

By now, the sun was up and about 8:20 we started ake our move. We crossed Khati, and after a while, found ourselves walking along the banks of the river Pindar. The river was gushing out of the valley that looked like a giant hollow turn bending into another valley, and the trees on the borderline on a path that is broad enough for 3 persons to walk together. Our laughters could be heard coming back to us in echo, or atleast seemed to me so. I was enjoying myself. The path was almost plain - sometimes ascend and descend - but that doesnt count.

A waterfall before Dwali

It was a cakewalk till we reached the shephard's huts where one could see a new wooden bridge made up to cross the river that gushes out in massive flow from a bend. This bend after crossing the bridge climbs you to opening of another valley. In this part of valley is place called Dwali, some 6kms from here. It has a PWD and KMVN guesthouse. Dwali presents the view of icy mountains and is indeed windy, and down there is Pindar. It requires you to cross another wooden bridge over Pindar to reach here.

Dwali in the shadow of snow peaks

By the time we reached here it begin to pour. I sipped upon tea and my friends ate maggi. Hukum was by now in bad shape. He wanted to stay. I was also in the grip of fatigue. I was not at all fit. Reason being my office work and tension to complete thesis, and my life was only office to home to office for past 8 months. Gaurav suggested that we will have our stuff carried by a porter so me and Hukum will be able to walk to Phurkiya, the destination we were supposed to reach, today.

I liked the idea but i knew its all climb up from here till Phurkiya. I again tried resisted looking at Hukum who was almost breathless. Although Hukum has much experience than us but lately he is homed in Delhi, with parents and wife and a cute daughter. So he has made himself too comfortable in all these years. Otherwise he is a solid man.

The Wooden Bridge

At 4 pm around, we resumed walking towards Phurkiya, some 5 kms from Dwali.

First Glacier Enroute before Phurkiya

The other reason i wanted to stay in Dwali is i was being very sleepy. It looked to me like i need to lay down for a while, which i could not afford to if we all have to reach Phurkiya the same day. So i suggested that me and Hukum could come to Phurkiya early morning, but Gaurav made this arrangement, so it seemed that we will be able to walk till Phurkiya.
The last mile to Phurkiya was really tiring but the loadless walking made it a bit easier for two of us. The signboard read Phurkiya KMVN though it was rusted from the sides, and had scratches all over the board. My watch showed 6pm. We chose PWD over KMVN, it was cheaper, we had our sleeping bags and, somehow it looked that the room has ample space to accomodate all four of us together. Quickly the arrangements were made, and tea was served. Knowing that we have to stay here the night, suddenly there was no sleep. We were clicking photographs, enjoying the tea and chatting up with the tea vendor.

Phurkiya

Phurkiya had two shops - a small and a slightly bigger one. It looked like to me that GMVN people or his fellows were operating the bigger one, while the smaller one belonged to a young man from Khati village. It is here we ate our meals at 8:10 pm and went to sleep. Phurkiya offered grand views as we got closer to Pindari Glacier - the originating source of river Pindar. It was about 3100 mtrs height with moutain face to its North-West side. The Pindari glacier but still not visible.

(path that leads to) Phurkiya

While chatting up with few villagers, we got to know that Pindari Baba himself is in Khati village. He tried a week before going to his place right upto zero point but there is still too much of snow and an avalanche that has made reaching there worse. Some other village says that PWD people have cleared the snow and made a way over the snow to go to zero point. And the other challenged that there is massive snow enroute and nobody actually will be able to go to zero point.

I suddenly recalled seeing a bunch of foreigners coming back from Pindari who said the somewhat same thing - too much snow. They were the mountaineers and had plans to cross the valley and reach Munsiyari. I never heard of this route before. An alternative route which i have heard of takes one to the Roopkund but that is not on this route. Its on Sundardhunga route, and also not on Kafni glacier trek. I was up early. All of us didnt had good sleep.

Gaurav Crossing the first Glacier

Infact i could not sleep for last 3 days properly. One night sacrificed in travelling, the other at Danu's guesthouse in Vaccham that was somewhat half-sleep half awake sort of for me, and the last night at Phurkiya, was not at all comfortable. All we did night-long was changing positions inside the sleeping back. By 7:30 am we started climbing up from Phurkiya towards the Pindari Glacier.

Nanda Kot Side of Valley

Hukum didnt come along this time despite asking him twiceHe preferred to sleep a bit more and rest. He showed signs of laziness and sleepless, and asked pointing towards my rolled sleeping-bag for pillow. Bunty and Gaurav ordered paranthas for breakfast and after second round of hot piping tea, we started to march. And it was some another 6-7kms to zero point. I was mesmerised completely overtaken by the views that are now surrounding us.

Peaks Engulfed in Clouds

I was walking at a good pace. Bunty and Gaurav following. The first glacier we crossed at some 500 mtrs from Phurkiya was wide and quite much slippery. Me and Bunty crossed it but Gaurav had apprehensions. A small slip could end up in fatal injury or death. I came back to fetch Gaurav, help him cross this mess, using a wooden stick. We crossed and resumed walking. Some 4-5 small medium sized glaciers continued to come until came a point after walking 2.5 kms where Gaurav said, "Ok! enough! I will stay here, you two can continue." It was getting hard for him to cross these snow-melting glaciers as the sun was vibrant and shining high by now. The wind was pestering us too. I have been helping him in crossing the glacers but i also feel it was right for him to stay back.

Pindar Valley

A slip on rough snow patches that were now melting could turn the sheer pleasure into disaster, so it is better to be avoided else you are confident that you could cross them or either have the right equipments and a trained guide. We didn't had any of these. Me and Bunty continued walking. After walking some 3 kms more, Gaurav said ''this wind is biting my head off".

He complained of headache, but had nothing to wrap off on his ear and head. He was showing the symptoms of high atltitude sickness but was okay. Pindari Glacier at the farther end to extreme left-side was still half visible, only the massif of it.

We decided to look at the turning point of the valley which was now just a km away to see the full glacier. Just before some 500 mtrs from here, we met an old man leaned over a rock and smoking like the old age train's piston showen in documentaries.

He said Pindari Baba's ashram is just now nearby; so we decided to have a look.

Pindari Glacier at Last

In the meanwhile snow patches increased and air was piercing Bunty's head. We increased our speed and walked about a km more until at the turn Pindari was visible. It is from here at some distance of 500 mtrs is Pindari Baba's abode. This was the last point we went to. We clicked pictures, and spent about 10 minutes to look around and absorb everything we could of the place - the mist in the air, sun beams, snow blinding us white, and the silence - just the two of us. We spoke nothing. We did nothing. We just starred at the massifs of the moutains.

Valley View While Coming Back

The time was 11:10 and we nodded our heads in agreement to go back. The weather suddenly started to get bad with dark clouds ready to pour on us, uninvited. But it was us who were uninvited, in the home of the clouds. It started to pour down in small drops. We met Gaurav sitting over a rock just where we left him. We were now walking fast to get back to Phurkiya. In an hour and half or maybe less we reached Phurkiya.

Hukum had already left by now. He has taken our baggage too using a pony. That was a big relief. We had tea again. Soon after we started to comeback. By 7 pm around, we reached Danu's place, and we knew which bed for whom. We atequickly and dozed off to sleep with plan to trek Dhakuri. We reached Vaccham at 8:30 am next morning. The plan was Hukum will take the jeep and reach Bharadi at his in-laws' place while we will continu trek to Dhakuri-Chilta Devi and come down to Saung where our car was parked. We bid goodbye to Hukum and started to climb up.

River Pindar

Some 4kms of upside trek led us to Dhakuri KMVN and PWD. It was a place i have dreamt of - a perfect

picture postcard of the views and sun keeping us warm.

It is here we took a big 1 hr break - refreshing oursleves with Slice followed by tea and biscuits. Another 1.5 kms upside and we reached Chilta Devi temple. It is from here two diversions appear in opposite directions and both had Chilta temples while the straight path leads to Loharkhet.

Valley View While Coming Back

To the right-hand side a gate reads 'Chilta mandir ka dwar'that was clearly visible from the small temple where we were sitting.

It was here we met a guide-cum-porter here who chatted with us very nicely and apperead extremely courteous. He suggested us to take a look at the lake on the left side, a km before the Chilta temple which was opposite to the gated temple that read 'Chilta mandir ka dwar'.

Temple of Chilta Devi

Tempted by the mention of lake, we stated to walk in the direction as he left. But enjoying at the Chilta top (not at the temple, but on the temple that is Dhakuri Top) was far more pleasurable. I could spend the whole day here. The soft wind touches you every now and then, and the snow clad peaks in the front. And we begin to walk.

Gate of Chilta Temple

After some 200 mtrs we find it had no path, only dry leaves all over scattered which got steep after a while as if walking on the borderline with a gorge on the right-side. And Gaurav said, "lets drop this and go back". We came back and rested again at the temple for a while. Shortly thereafter we started to walk down from Dhakuri Top. While walking on it I realised, its good that we avoided it else it would have made us pretty tired on the first day of trek itself. It was indeed a good climb with a disturbing but broad clear path made up of uneven stones rather flat big pieces. We came across the grave of a German tourist with the tombstone that read Peter Krost. I said how fortunate of him to die in this heaven. It was actually the place to detach the body and return the soul.

Old Man Who Served Us Tea and Chatted

The route had couple of shops. I am sure in the times of season (we went in April end); the place will have more shops to refreshen oneself. We halted at one such shop. It was on a bend. The hut-owner an elderly man looked self-contained. The tree close the shop, is where we sat and sipped our tea and ate few packs of biscuits. We were at leisure. The man initially didn't spoke however after sometime willingly shared about the place. He said "the place used to receive massive snow but not anymore now". He shared that he has seen snow deep to his waist such fierce the snow storms that could injure one. And he remembered his time when he himself was kid. I loved his narration of things. It can not be told, can only be felt. For a moment time stood still. The tea was perfect unlike regular tea that you'll get on hills - sugary and light. But this was a strong cup. So we ordered again.

Confluence of Pindari & Alaknanda at Karanprayag

While we reached Loharkhet in choas and confusion - walking roadside and at some place asking for help; I was all the way thinking about the old man, his life and the words he said "the place was much better but not anymore". It is heaven still but the old man won't agree to that. What kind of place would it have been during the old man's time. And I started to toy with the comparison between now and then, cursing the evil development and blaming the developed minds for they have made our lives complex. But have they? I hate this debate so much yet i always ponder upon them.

While coming back, it was mutually agreed to drive through Karanprayag. It is where Pindar river merges in Alakananda. We all had a peaceful bath at the confluence. This gave us the feeling of having completed this journey from source to end of the river Pindar. A sense of self-contentment. The kind of what that old man at Dhakuri showed. The dip had purified our souls if not our body and mind.

Itinerary:

Day-1: Started Fri Night@12 p.m from Delhi-Bhimtal (at 6 a.m) - Almora (at 10:30 a.m) - Bagheshwar (at 2 p.m) - Saung (at 4 p.m; parked car at PWD) - Vaccham (by hired jeep at 6:45 p.m and walked 3 km to reach Danu's place).

Day-2: Vaccham (started at 8 am) - Dwali (2:30 pm) - Phurkiya (at 5:30 p.m around)
Day-3: Phurkiya (at 7 a.m) - Zero Point - Vaccham (at 7:30 p.m)

Day-4: Vaccham (at 7:30 a.m) - Dhakuri Top, Chilta Devi Temple (at 1:30 a.m) - Loharkhet (5 p.m) - Bharadi (6:30 p.m night halt)

Day-5: Bharadi (started at 5 a.m) - Delhi via Karanprayag (reached by 11 p.m)

Himanshu

Superunknown / Binsar Mahadev, Pauri Garhwal, Uttarakhand

2011-05-26T22:52:00.000-07:00

Binsar means bin-sar (without head) that's what priest told me when enquired why this temple is called Binsar. Not to be confused with the Binsar in Sauni near Ranikhet, and nor with the place called Binsar in Almora; this place is largely unknown. Though I have heard of this temple many times when my father mentioned and also from some known villagers at different point of time, and though a friend named Kiran Rawat, who had once confirmed me the route and location. But the tour planning came into existence when i met 'kashmiri uncle' during my first visit to Manilla Devi in Salt region of Almora. I got the first hand feel of the Binsar Mahadev temple from him only who referred it as 'Bindeshwar Devta'.

It was October 2008. Me and Arun, a fellow traveller, were on a trip to Maanila and Diba (Divakhal). It is from here after visiting Maanila we decided to go further to Sarainkhet - the last village of the Kumoan region on this belt. And from here to Uffrainkhal in Garhwal, some 20 kms from Sarainkhet. It is here Kashmiri uncle owns a small grocery store and a set of two small rooms, while he has rented out kitchen part to a fellow villager who runs a small eating joint. Kashmiri uncle got his name after he came back from Kashmir where he was serving in the army, and now lives peacefully in Uffrainkhal managing his shop. If i know him correct he has no family, or atleast not known to me but then i never enquired as well. I could assume because i saw him sleeping in the closed compound of his shop during my stay at two different times.

It was a day before Holi in Feb. 2011 when we started our this tour from Delhi Anand Vihar ISBT at about 7 pm. As usual we were looking for Gagan - all three of us - Rajeev Ji, Sanjeev and me. This is my second trip with both but with Gagan, i've been very frequent. Afterall we are friends since our graduation days! So i knew him better in one way. As usual he came when i bus was about to leave. We were already inside. It was mad rush - everybody wants to board the bus to make it quite a Holi-day with their families and friends. And then came Gagan at last just when me and Rajeev ji were deciding to get down off the bus or continue the ride without Gagan. But Gagan can't be left, and soon we foursome were chit-chatting. The smiles on our face didnt last long and at Garhmukteshwar we found our bus creeping in the traffic-jam. After a while it stopped creeping as well, when driver switched-off the engine and tried to catch up with sweet little sleep, a power nap like, resting his head over the steering and uplifiting his white shawl to cover up himself well. Almost every passenger got off the bus except women and children and the drunkards - to prevent the mosquito bites, and some like us to see how much time this jam gonna take? So me and Rajeev ji started walking towards the small bridge over the Garh-Ganga. The road was completely jammed with tractors, three-wheelers and village folks everywhere on both the sides of the road with white jerricans filled with holy water from Ganges. The moon looked lovely, it was a colourful sight - headlights of the vehicles, colorful people walking and Rajeev ji busy photographing objects like such. We went till the bridge, and came back to find everyone sleeping and some chatting up about the situation inside bus. We climbed up on the bus-roof and sat there for a while discussing our experiences. Afterthat we came down when our adrenaline level came down. After about 4 hours around in the traffic jam, we drove off further. It was about 5 am around we crossed Moradabad. By 9:30 we reached Ramnagar. The driver - an old man in late 50's looked tired and cautious.
We reached Uffrainkhal via Marchula, Dotiyal and Sarainkhet at about 6:30 pm, and straightaway went to Kashmiri uncle. He instantly recognised me, and we exchanged the greetings. That evening we spent with village folks who invited us over to be the part of Holika Dahan (burning of Holika - a ritual represented through a bon-fire sort with people playing color around it to express happiness of winning over the evil). There were no colours but showers of expressions particulalry among the ladies. Soon after the fire was lit, people especially, children started to dance around it. They had placed the speakers on the compound of their village temple just near to the fire. It was a pleasant sight. And the warm fire soothed us to our bones.

After about half an hour, we went to eat at kashmiri uncle's, where another uncle who has hired kashmiri's place, served us with food. It was quite a delicacy, and we ate hearty meal. Me and Gagan decided to take a round and went back to the fire. By then all have gone. It was all ashes, hot enough to keep us talking in the cool breeze of the night. We humans always have something to talk about. Don't we? And about 9 we retired to sleep - me and Sanjeev in one room and Gagan - Rajeev ji in the other, next to us.

Next morning, we were up early. Our taxi driver that we booked to get a drop till Chounda, after Jagatpuri, was on-time. He appeared to be in hurry, citing Holi as a reason which he excitedly mentioned again and again. Infact he suggested that we should play Holi with villagers and taste Bhang (a drink that uses opium seeds). which we politely rejected. Uncle packed us some paranthas for the route knowing that there is nothing in between we will get to eat. Soon we find ourseleves on-foot marching up with enthusiasm. Some 6 kms trek from here will lead us to Binsar Mahadev temple. Alternate route is from Peethsain via Thailisain from where the distance to the temple is 9kms which is mostly downside. But here we were climbing up!

The path was clear and civilisation ended after walking some 2 kms. We made the headway towards the jungle the four of us - talking, laughing, criticizing and making noise. And then came the turning point. After walking about more than 5-6kms, we still did not had any clue about the location of the temple. Meanwhile the path that we were following was completely vanished into the small dry stream that was all rocks and mud. It was about 1 pm and we were in the interior of the dense jungle, without anyone to guide us. I would often go here and there to locate the route thread but nothing that i could find there. Rajeev ji looked exhauted. He had this knee trouble that makes it hard to walk. The fact also was that he had just got up after Chikunguniya, about a month ago. Agitated, he shouted, "think, we have families to take care of". Gagan too said "lets go back". Sanjeev was cool though. I was hard pressed to see the temple. I was longing for it now quite some time. I wondered if the Lord Shiva doesn't want us to be in His temple. But why? And I begain to locate the route.

After 15 minutes, the route was spotted. It was just above us, over our head, a brief steep climb through that dry stream which we climbed using our hands on the rocks. In another 20 minutes, we were at the temple - more than happy and thanking God for His kindness on us. "Maybe He was testing us" said Gagan!

The temple dated back to the time of Vishwakarma maybe some 2000 years ago, who made this temple of Lord Shiva - why, though not known exactly. There is a small symbol on the front gate of the temple to its left which the priest referred to as writing of Vishwakarma himself. With great pride he said, a team of German-British people visited this place and took a wax imprint of the writing alongwith, maybe to decode its meaning. We quickly bathed. The water was ice freezing, cold enough to make me scream once.

We prayed for about half an hour and then ate the paranthas, that uncle packed for us. Rajeev ji streched himself on the slab of the temple at the courtyard; Gagan was praising the chants, Sanjeev and me eating, playing with the dogs and clicking snaps. It was 3 pm and weather started to get bad. And we knew the time has come to bid goodbye to His Holiness and after our tea at the temple premise, we started to come down.

As we started our journey to comeback, I suddenly remember, i've brought some Gulal (color) to play Holi. I gave the packet to the priest. He smeared it upon himself and to the diety in the temple, and finally smeared it on our forehead. It was truely a moment that i cherished, afterall we came to play Holi with the Lord Shiva. This was the feeling - the fragrance of purple Abir, and the sweet smell of oks and birch and the perfect quietness - nobody spoke and i could hear the thunderbold hoard after a pause. The roar got strong and we knew we have to now get started.

Itinenary:

Day 1: Left Delhi @ 8 p.m - Ramnagar (11 a.m because of Jam at GarhMukteshwar)- Dotiyal (Manilla Devi) - Sariankhet - Uffrainkhal (at 6 p.m). Celebrated Holi-Dahan with Village folks. Night Halt at Kashmiri uncle's place.

Day 2: Jeep to Chaunda via Jagatpuri from Uffrainkhal (some 16 kms). Started trek. Reached Binsar temple covering 6kms. Night halt

Day 3: Back to Delhi by 10 p.m

Question of the Lifetime / Munsiyari, Kumaon, Uttarakhand

2011-03-12T03:56:00.000-08:00

Yesterday night I spent most of the time thinking about my life and my so called future. Most of the thinking was about – how do I want my life to be? Certainly not much I desire, but I can’t be blindfold to the average Indian progressing whose probably sole aim is to improve the life standards. But what defines that standard? A classic case is IIT/IIM students venturing out to find their life opting out of nicely paid jobs arranged through placement cell.

Garhmukteshwar (both pics)

This is not for me having known that I can only stick to the job that I have in my hand. Not that I can’t do! But no immediate plans I have such. So – how do I make my life live the way I want it to be. The DNA and search for its genesis is not new to a thinking mind - to decode real meaning of life but not the Buddha way certainly!

Your biggest strength could be your biggest weakness too – your family. Thinking of them, I can’t just runaway to continue my search about the question I’ve raised to myself.

So whenever I get the opportunity to backpack, take full advantage leveraging it to my competitive advantage as management philosophers have described the situation.

Such an opportunity came through Gaurav, who called up after a long gap of time almost after 2008. Gaurav, I’ve remember of him as a student but his nature-loving side of life – was something I did not knew about.

On Nainital Road

Until one day he sent me a message with few pics about his brief trips to hills and what I remember is having seen the pics from his Gangotri-Gaumukh diary on the facebook. A program was made after successive interactions with him – to Munsiyari.

January 24th 2011, morning about 3:30 am, they came in Alto to pick me up from my place. It was hard – finding my place and therefore, I had to guide them the way to a near-by point. There were 3 of them – inside car. Gaurav, alongwith Vikram – a likeminded fellow traveler like us in his early thirties like me, built like me, height like me – almost. At the back was a tall lean guy – Pawan Dubey – who works with NTC. I adjusted myself with him at the back seat. I realized that I had to use ATM service. After which we set off to a journey to find some questions and pursue some answers.

Marriage Procession at Golu Devta Temple, Chittai, Almora

The interaction started among us and with that my fear of – how these guys will be which also often crossed my mind as the date came closer – was tamed down. I was satisfied to be with them. All clean and nice guys – likeminded – just I was. It feels good when you have companions who give you space and understand you as much as you do about yourself. There is a very limited fraternity who is crazy for travels and treks – I was glad to be with them, finding them to be – easy and friendly.

First glimpse - Panchachuli enroute Berinag

And came then Garhmukteshwar between our talks and the stereo playing new-age film songs. Few shots of rising sun over Garhganga from the bridge – refreshed us. The scene was chillier than the chill in the wind itself. But it was quite a feeling to relish. And we set off further.

Approaching Berinag

About 11 around, we reached Haldwani, took quick bites on the paranthas that Gaurav has brought with him alongwith cold drink bottles. We were but not quite much hungry then.

The drive to Almora was almost very swift until we crossed Khairna past Kainchi Dham. The massive rains of last year made this route that once was quite a delight, miserable to drive. With lots of hitches and hikes, on some 20 kms long stretch, we reached back side of Almora’s main bazzar. It was here we took up serious lunch, ate heartly meal, and stretched ourselves. It was 2 O’clock.

KMVN, Choukori

We were quick enough to eat and soon left Almora to reach our destination for the day and night halt – Berinag.

However original plan was to reach Chaukori. After a long drive through Cedars, and Silver Birch jungles that we passed through – came Berinag. That was some 120 kms from Almora. At 7 pm, it the small hill-town looked dead. Some taxi-jeep drivers were chatting up besides the fire to fight the January chill. We checked into a hotel that was almost clean, hurriedly. A previous hotel we checked in was not ventilated properly and price-wise also high, though difference was not significant. That night we opened up the bottles – to refresh ourselves from the tiredness and be ready for another day.

Berinag to Choukori

It was nice – some friends and few bottles. Although we all don’t drink and were very occasional beer drinkers, except Pawan who could beat monsters in competition, and sipped upon Old Monk lavishly.

I chose go with Rum, a nice peg, enough to keep you warm. As the clock struck 9, we got worried for food since we knew that on small remote hill town, the usual business closes early, and very early during winters. Thank God, we were just on time.

Takula Falls enroute Birthi

Next morning, the sun was up already and so were I. There was an astonishing view of Panchachuli ranges in the front that were seen from the back side of the hotel and to its extreme left at farther end was Nanda Devi.

Chakouri was nearby, some 30 kms, so we decided for our breakfast break. Chakouri, I found was more of a place to take strolls, until my thoughts were distorted as soon as we entered into KMVN. The view was grand. The Himalayan ranges eye to eye, in our front. And my hands reached fast for my Canon XSi hanging by strap around my neck. Just when me and Gaurav were discussing about them, Pawan called up to say, breakfast is ready, and we climbed down from the elevation point for tourists to see the white feathered hill ranges. As good was the breakfast we had.

We stuffed the fuel for the day and left Chakouri with assumptions about Munsiyari. Suddenly we had this great urge to reach Munsiyari and be close to Panchachuli.

It was not my first time in Kumaon, neither in the district Pithoragarh. Earlier I’ve been to Tanakpur-Champawat-Pithoragarh belt right from from Poornagiri temple along the banks of Sharda river to Kali-Gori Ganga confluence in Jauljibi, to wilderness of Askot sanctuary to the swinging bridge between India and Nepal at Dharchula. Infact I’ve been upto Tawaghat. While this belt was towards down, the belt on which I’m on with my friends now move upwards. With gossips, songs, stories, leg-pulling, sharing facts and experience, we came all along long way to Birthi falls. But before that there was one single delight that we found and got hooked to for sometimes was Takula Falls – visible from the road itself, some 150 mtrs fall – all white, sprinkling white.

Birthi Falls (both the pics)

Birthi was a delight too. Infact a bigger delight if not better. The statement requires understanding the difference between better and bigger. One thing that makes it bigger if not better was you can get close one to one with Birthi Falls. And that’s what we did to move from bigger to better experience. We bathed. Despite cold response from Gaurav, no self opinion of Pawan, and lukewarm response from Vikram; we ended up enjoying the bath in icy cold water of Birthi in the warm Sun.

Refreshed!

We headed towards Kalamuni. All this while, Vikram was driving. No wonder, you need guts to steer on the hills right from early morning to late evening. I was amazed with his passion for driving. He was indeed enjoying it or atleast it seemed to me. Whoa! In the meanwhile, snow patches started to appear. Pawan yelled in excitement, Snow! Stop! But Vikram didn’t with a promise that there’s more to come ahead. He did fulfill the promise and we took some shots enroute.
We arrived at Kalamuni, the temple of the Goddess Kali around 2 pm. The beauty was – you got to see the both side views from here. However I’m not sure how many of us noticed that because my fellows were looking at the snow around. We quickly paid our homage to the Goddess and gave order for the tea. The sun was playing hide and seek. Sometimes windy air blows through our hairs touching us with all its chillness, to sizzle us. Kalamuni was place to be. I could spend a full day here sipping upon unlimited tea and grazing at the two sides of the world. We took off again.

Just after half an hour, we were reading the signboard that read “Thamrikund – 3 Kms” along the roadside next to the temple of monkey-God Hanuman. We paid out homage and move towards the signboard to explore Thamrikund with mixed feelings and set of different combinations – to go really or not. Actually, it was already 3:20 pm around when we started moving towards Thamrikund and we were not sure if we would be able to reach due to the snow.

Approaching Kalamuni & Kalamuni Temple

Then also we had no idea about how far Munsiyari will be from here.

Thamrikund (first view)

After up and down on slopes between the snow that made us hard for walk, we somehow, after moderate difficulty reached Thamrikund. Gaurav slipped once or twice, and got scared of hitting his new Canon on the surface. He protested and resisted just like Pawan did – but Pawan’s reasons was ofcourse not the snow but the fear of animals especially the bear.

But we encountered nothing but the snow. Gaurav probably was thinking how he would make it going back. And the sun was setting too. Almost it was 5 O’clock when we started to comeback but deep in our hearts we did not wanted to comeback atleast for some more time. Thamrikund is the lake that was partly filled with snow to one side and partly where the sun rays reached, the water was warm. This reminded me of Devaria Taal enoute Chopta, during my visit to Tungnath.

Thamrikund (the other side had snow)

Atlast we came back and continued driving to Munsiyari that was still some 16 kms from here. The snow on road got thick and slippery. With utmost cautious, Vikram steered through the snow and the dark. Atlast we reached Munsiyari just when the last ray of sun gave the much closer Panchachuli its last gleam. What a sight it was, unforgettable! Soon after we got busy with finding accommodation.

Nanda Devi Temple, Munsiyari
In Hotel Rajrambha, we settled down for 500 bucks for a dormitory-like room which he was resisting to but gave after we sought shelter in some other hotel. But we had to come back to shift to Rajrambha for tidiness though it was also not par with any standard. But did we have more choice?

This evening too the bottles were out – beer for other and rum for Pawan. But before that we surveyed the place and came back after taking an early meal.

Panchachuli

At 7pm what a deserted look, Munsiyari bore. I purchased a set of hand woven carpet from here for 6000 bucks which I really liked and I assume Gaurav too. Although, after purchasing it I got skeptical because I didn’t think about how it’ll be carried in Alto. Gaurav said “we will find a way, ab to le liya”.

Khaliya Top : Slope we walked on

We enjoyed our conversations during the night but I have no clue when I fell asleep after finishing my share of beer and thoughts. It was probably 9:30 around.

Point of start of Khalia Top Trek

Next day we got up early – first Gaurav, then me and Vikram. Gaurav was getting restless to get the first glimpse of Panchachuli. Vikram occasionally tried leg pulling and I was enjoying it in my own way.

Pawan was still asleep or maybe getting ready while we were on hotel rooftop to click snaps.

It was colder than I though freezing our hands and we came down. We packed our stuff and prepared to visit Nanda Devi temple.

Nanda Devi (L) and Panchachuli (M-R)

The temple offered fabulous views of Panchachuli to its left side.

We also climbed up on a elevation point made for tourists to see Panchachuli – obstacle free.

We paid our homage to the Goddess Nanda and spent quite some time there looking at the massive structures of snow – the Himalayas.

Around 8 we were back at Rajrambha hotel to take our breakfast. Hot paranthas with hot simmering tea. And we were ready to climb famous Khaliya Top.

Flock of birds

We were making our plans to do Khalia Top from quite sometime and dealing with questions – Do we need a guide? Where to find one? I contacted Laxaman Singh after reading Almora Boy’s blog and taking reference from here but he demanded 4500 for a night’s stay at Khalia Top. And we decided to explore it by ourselves.

Although we did not reached the top but we got quite near to it. Snow made it hard to penetrate through the way to top and its intensity increased just as we got near to the huts. Vikram and Pawan climbed a bit more to observe things better – the Panchachuli. However the view from down to the huts was satisfying for me. This is where I said to Gaurav that I will spend my time here looking at the massifs of each of the mountains. Later we met two other gentlemen alongwith the guide who also planned not to go up and stop there to enjoy the view and the warmth of the sun. I did not go because I didn’t want to rush things.

Me, being one with my question!

I rather wanted to give it time – time to observe and cleanse my thoughts, drive my instincts and let me be in my void ness with my very own-self. For a minute we spoke nothing, did nothing and just sat quietly to seek our own “moment of truth”. A truth that we might not have known or would never be known. Just like this question – what is it that I want from my life remains!

Itinenary:

Day 1: Started @ 4am from Delhi in Alto; Reached Haldwani @ 11 (260kms); then Almora @ 2pm (90 kms). Halt for Lunch and thereafter Berinag @ 7pm (120 kms). Night Halt.

Day 2: Left Berinag @ 7:40 am; Reached Chaukori @ 9:15a.m (40kms); then Birthi Falls (50 kms), spend about 2 hrs here, and reached Kalamuni @ 2:40p.m (35kms); then Thamrikund (18kms).Trekked to the lake and came back 5pm. Finally reached Munsiyari @ 6pm driving through the snow patches on the road.

Day 3: Visited Nanda Devi temple @ 8 am (2 kms from Munsiyari town), came back for breakfast, packed our stuff and drove to Khalia Top bend @ 10a.m backwards. Did Khalia top trek and returned back @ 2pm. Drove off to Bagheshwar. Night Halt.

Day 4: Started 5a.m from Bageshwar. @ 6a.m Baijnath temples and then via - Kausani (Kosani) - Garur - Someshwar - Ranikeht - Bhimtal - Haldwani - Delhi @ 10:30 pm (total approx. 490 kms).

© Himanshu Dutt

for more pics: www.flickr.com/myth_drinker

The Divine Yumanotri Experience/ In the Voidness

2010-11-20T03:42:00.000-08:00

So often I have wondered - who am I? The one I am or the one I want to be. The one I am is materialistic and the one I want to be is a self-less. And there is a gap like exists everywhere. Sometimes big and at times looking small and you feel just close to becoming what you want to be. Self-less and self-contained – so what if at least for a while. And I started to plan a refuge out of this void-ness. I prefer calling it void-ness for my own reasons. Void because it is not contentment, void because it is temporary and void because it is unnatural. And that is how my quest led me to Yumanotri.

My plan is ready. Friday is Deepawali, a Saturday off and then Sunday will give me 3 days to visit Yumnotri. Arun will wait for me at Dehradun railway station on Friday early morning. I asked Saurabh for his take about the trip. I was not sure he’ll be able to come since its deepawali and being only son of his parents he might have to be stay back. My parents never have objected to my going to hills at any point of time. I can recall in 2006 I was in Gangotri on Deepawali which was quite an experience – to see the snow flakes showering over the devotees during the Arti in the temple. This time too I am hoping an experience that would last for a lifetime.

Saurabh surprised me when he said he’ll be coming along with me, and we left straight from our office on Thursday evening, taking metro service to ISBT, to catch bus to Dehrdun. We both have idea about the rush a day before Deepawali but seeing long queues and very few buses, we anticipated that it is going to be tough. I asked the conductor of the bus full packed inside, for a place for two to which he clearly rejected, looking at few other people who were quite much looking for the same opportunity. And the bus roared and moved a little – as if leaving.

With the bus, we too moved and Saurabh pleaded – “we are going to Yumanotri for Deepawali” and need to reach Dehradun before 5 a.m. Both conductor–driver looked at our sacks on our backs, and after a brief silence, conductor said – I have just one seat left.

Next moment, we both were inside the bus – me sitting over the bonnet of the bus while Saurabh on that one seat. The bus moved and my conversations with the duo started in no time. Both were pahari and since we said we are going to Yumnotri, they accommodated us in the bus – maybe thinking that we have a long way to go or fearing that they must not interfere with our pilgrimage. Conductor boasted about his honesty and how helpful he has been to different people at various times citing examples. But soon after he picked up three more people from Ghaziabad border, and there was hardly any space left now inside the diver’s cabin. I knew he is en-cashing on the opportunity that Deepawali rush has brought in. But why this hypocrisy, that I could not understand.

Dehradun at 3:30 a.m was colder than I thought and we both had brought our sweaters out.

I quickly called Arun to know where he is. He was sleeping inside the ‘Barkot’ bus that we have to take. The bus will leave at 5:30 a.m. and looking at the time we have to spare we decided to take tea and buns at the road-side vendor just opposite to the old bus station. Then we strayed ourselves here and there. And at sharp 5:30 bus started for Barkot. We both have been on this route before till Naugaon from where Badkot goes uphill and to Purola goes straight.

Janakichatti

We reached Badkot around 10:40 and started to lookout for bus or jeep to Jaankichatti. Saurabh purchased some candles, and crackers to celebrate Deepawali at the temple in our own style. My worry was rather about reaching Jaankichatti. No bus. Jeep was already full, and I started again to ask the jeep owner. Finally, we managed to get one seat inside. While Arun and Saurabh adjusted themselves on the roof-top with fellow passengers, I scrambled myself inside.

Later from Hanumanchatti, I also joined my companions over the rooftop of the jeep. Thrilled.

After reaching Jaankichatti me and Saurabh filled our bellies quickly, while Arun was fasting. We then started to move slowly towards the temple, chit-chatting. It was bright sunny day of noon. The 5 km cemented path leading to Yumnotri temple is an easy climb and walk is more pleasant then we thought. Looking at the flowing Yamuna, I suggested taking a dip. Chilled, the water was, and we hurriedly took our 3 dips in the name of whatever Gods our mind could think of.

Saurabh & Arun Enjoying Dip in Yamuna

Indeed it was refreshing but it made us lazy. The feeling was like – my body wants to sleep and my mind instructing it to move on. I can feel my eyes closing every now and then. After all we have not slept last night and have been traveling for last 16 hours.

We reached the temple around 5:40 p.m – chatting, walking, clicking photographs but did not take any break to rest. I was astonished to see the kund – an average sized pool of hot water.

Actually the sulphur water, out from the, ground. We submerged ourselves into it and for half an hour we were relaxing in the name of hot water bath. Saurabh, started to complain of fainting feeling. I was feeling that too. But looking at Saurabh I got nervous. He put on his clothes back and spread himself over the steps of the kund. And then a miracle. Just when the temple bell started to ring, he got up and said, Sir! Let’s go. And the chanting of Arti started on the mic, in mild soothing tone.

Bhairav Temple Enroute

We were some 10 people sitting with our folded hands in the temple premise offering our homage to the Goddess Yamuna. I was more than delighted to have made it to the temple especially for the Deepawali. And then I found myself lost in the chants and prayers.

The Goddess Yamuna’s 3 idols – in black stone to the left; silver, in the middle; and the marble made, on the right appeared to have same aggressive looks as if denoting her relation to the God of Death - Yamaraj.

Here is the version of story narrated by one of the temple priests. Jai Muni, the sage, worshipped mother Yamuna like King Bhagirath did at Gangotri. However Bhagirath did it for penance of his ancestors, sage Jai Muni did it for penance of common people. Said Jai Muni, “those you come to your darshana and worship you O’Yamuna, may they their soul go to heaven, and not sent to hell by Yamaraj, narrated the priest with chanting of sloka.

Yamuna, requested to brother Yamaraj, to fulfill the sage’s will, to which Yama agreed. Since then it is believed those who pay homage to mother Yamuna, they become free from the fear of going to hell, and their soul goes to heaven.

Well, I wonder if I fear hell or is just hungry for heaven – because you never know where you go, once you are gone. Death embraces all. The philosophy whatever is behind the mythologies like these, the heaven is where everybody wants to go.

The superior heaven outshines the evil hell in our minds and that’s what belief is. These rituals have made us special, a proud Hindu or have labeled as superstitious society. The answer is as much debatable as the question itself.

By the now the Puja is over and we started to light the candles we brought with us and placed it all over the temple compound – near the Surya kund, as well. Surya kund is where the hot water spring is worshipped and potatoes, rice are cooked to be offered as Prasad.

The next day we came down after dip in the holy kund again and reached the village Kharsali, near Jaankichatti, to visit an ancient Shani temple. The temple architecture is very old. The priest’s son took us inside the 3 storey temple made of stones, craved through the big rock-sized stones. Later priest told us that even he doesn’t know when the temple dates back to. He also tried giving his association with Yamnotri temple priests who are ‘Uniyal’ – a garhwali Brahmin caste. We sipped upon hot piping tea at his place and then set off to come down back to the modern civilization.

While coming back, I requested one young fellow passenger in Jeep to send me the song he was plying loud on his mobile. That one song made easy for me to come down back to Delhi and in my mind thinking about the time spent in the voidness. I realised the voidness is golden. I hate Delhi like it is now.

Itinerary: Delhi-Yumanotri (Total Distance: 462 Kms.)

November 4th, 2010 THU: Bus from ISBT Kashmere Gate to Dehradun @ 7 P.M, Rs. 280 per seat from Uttarakhand Roadways – Hi-tech Bus Service.

5th, FRI: Reach Dehradun @ 3:30 A.M – Tea Break – Bus to Barkot @ 5:30 A.M. Reached Barkot around 11:30 A.M (via Damta, Naugaon, approx. 130 kilometers – Rs. 165 per seat from Uttarakhand Roadways). Boarded 12:10 p.m shared Jeep service from Barkot to Jaankichatti (approx. 65 km, Rs. 60 per seat). Jaankichatti at 3:00 p.m around. After a hearty meal and dip in icy cold water of holy Yumana at Jaankichatti reached Yumanotri around 5:20 p.m covering 5kms distance on-foot. Dip in the Holy Kund. Celebrated Deepawali in the temple premise.

6th, SAT: Got up early, took a long dip in holy kund (hot water), offered our Pooja and clicked pics. Back to Jaankichatti at 11 A.M around. Visited ancient Shani temple at Kharsali. Tea at priest’s house. Started to comeback by 1 P.M. Shared jeep to Barkot. Then bus to Naugaon. Halt.

7th, SUN: Took 6:00 A.M GMOU bus to Vikasnagar. Reached around 11:30 A.M. Bus to Dehradun ISBT. Reached around 1 P.M. Finally, bus to Delhi. Reached Delhi around midnight.

In My Hometown / Deeba, the deity of Garhwal

2010-11-03T22:54:00.000-07:00

Rejoicing the peaceful walk of Maanila Devi; me and Arun maintained the pace of walking. It was quite a morning, fresh and misty, with mild wind blowing through the pines and enough for my senses to demand more. Arun suggested that we should go to Sarainkhet, while I had Deeba temple in the mind. And in my mind I started to fight this feeling - how do we cover both? Extending leave for an extra day might upset the boss.

Shot in Jayaraj (after Kanpathia)

And I prepared myself mentally to take this challenge. If required, I'll not hesistate to resign - I said to myself in feeble voice but with stone over heart.

We reached Dotiyal - the place we started our journey from. Biting over the Samosa and piping hot tea in my hand, the pace of struggle ended, with decision - to do both - come whatever may come. We packed a full bread and 4 Samosa to start out journey. I was quite much in mood to walk. Arun knew the place well. He has been here before, thrice.

We started to walk towards Kanpathia, a place that offers spectacular views of Himalayan ranges, mostly chatting up and listening to the songs stored on Arun's mobile, the next 5 kms. The pleasure was worth upsetting boss or losing the job even. And the weird smile appeared on my face. Kanpathia is another place after Ukhimath, where I would love to settle down for rest of my life.

A bend enroute Kanpathiya

It has Himalayan face, wide open valley, very few people visible and a mobile tower too. All that I want. We sipped our second tea here, Arun chatting up with locales and me looking around, thinking, clicking, wondering...

We resumed walking. Next destination is Jayaraj some 2 kms from Kanpathia.

The Old man who discussed Politics & Concerns

Here a known of Arun is building a resort - for don't know what! The sun was up and full by this time. I saw villagers drying the fresh pale-yellow chillies over their rooftops... a sight spicy enough to be clicked by the camera. Another cup of tea and critical reviews about Uttarakhand goverment started to come out. I presume it was due to my image that resembled a news correspondent with my camera hanging from my neck right over my chest.

Towards Sarainkhet

The questions from two elders mostly circled around the damage in the region due to cloudbursts and the record-breaking rains that the State had received this monsoon. Giant cracks on the roads, massive land-slides and century old houses that turned to dust - their watching the rains wash away - almost everything. Sentiments sometimes turn voilent and one of the old men started to put blame on us for not reporting it to news channels, or atleast not reporting about everything that has happened in the region.

Oldman working (Sarainkhet)

I could not clarify about who we are and what we were not. We paid for our tea and marched ahead. After walking some 2 more kilometers, we were not sure what else to talk about - natural calamities and the damage it did. All I knew that Centre has accepted to give Rs. 500 Cr. relief package to Pokhriyal-led government.

Sarainkhet

Horn blew - and a voice came from behind, and we boarded the bus to Sarinkhet which is some 18-20 kms. The path was beautiful, it moved on a snail trail through the forest road. Later the valley widened and colourful cholai fields were in the sight. I smelled the air deep and said atlast Sarainkhet. We didn't spend much time in Sarainkhet. It is the last village of Almora's Salt district in Kumaon region - a small place with 3-side closed view.

Uffrainkahl (kashmiri uncle in the pic)

And we decided to move on to next destination of the bus called Uffrainkhal. Uffrainkhal is the place from where Garhwal starts after Sarainkhet - the Kumaon border. It is even smaller than Sarainkhet with handful of houses and a temple. The bus will stop here for the day. It is around 4 p.m and before sun sets we planned to do our survey of the place. We walked from here towards the road that leads to Baijro, which is some 30 kms from Uffarainkahl.

But the bus service has been stopped due to badly worn out roads. And suddenly appeared the sad face of the old man we met in Jayaraj earlier. I said to myself - How much right he was? and regretted for not understanding his sentiments well. And Arun started to play songs on his mobile again. Pointing towards a rock on our left, he said lets climb it and see the next side of it. He is right. There was a road too on the other side that goes to a place called Binsar Mahadev - an ancient Shiva temple, famous all over Garhwal.

Valley View from Uffrainkhal (road goes to Binsar)

And we started to take stroll on the road chatting up, listening to the songs, looking at the sun going down slowly and breathing the mellow breeze filled with fragrance of pines, deodar and silver birch mixed with cool mist through our lungs. It is cold here, I said to Arun, pulling up the zip of my jacket upto my neck. Walking after some 6-7kms, we decided to return back but only after a round of tea. By 7 p.m we are back to the place where we started from. Kashmiri Uncle gave us shelter and the fresh cooked food for the night.

For the first time I was amazed to find a pumpkin so tasty that I ate the platefull of it plain rice, appraising it again and again. And Arun said, "We should have brought Old Monk quarter with us to make it enjoyable". And bus driver, conductor, Kashmiri uncle - they all laughed. By now the dog's barking stopped as if giving us this hint to stop gossiping and sleep. And I came out of the Kashimiri uncle's shed to look at the stars - there were so many - and I smiled in my mind.

How happy I was? Next morning, we stated early and begin to walk along the road. We knew that the bus will come after sometime. It was colder but walking made it pleasurable. In between we took short-cuts, and in no time we have covered some 5-6 kms. And then came the bus. We got down at Dotiyal. I wanted to walk down from Kanpathiya to Dotiyal road. Walking somehow kept me going and enjoying clearing my head.

Uffrainkhal (early morning)

Another round of tea at Dotiyal and we boarded the bus to Marchula. The plan is to visit Diva temple, in Divakhal. And we both decided to take bath in the cold water of Ramganga under the bright noon sun. The white water flowing looked like cystal pieces on the blue waves of sea. It can not be explained.

Marchula

Wiping my body I asked Arun, when do we reach Dhumakot?

He said, we must hurry up to catch the 2 p.m bus and then we reach there by 6 p.m.

Dhumakot is completely a estranged place or it seemed to me. It is getting dark by now but Arun had known the place quite well. We got the small dingy room for 200 bucks. We ate and retired to sleep early after a biref walk just to survey the place a bit. Next day early morning, at 5:30 we boarded our bus to reach Divakhal. We reached there in no time, just 15kms from Dhumakot, the place is - love at first sight - for me.

Jadaukhand

By 6 A.M we started walking towards the temple. Though I was fearing that we should let the sun come out first to make it safe for duo. I have heard from my dad many times that the jungle area is Bear-infested. The old lady, from the priest's family on the road-head confirmed the same when she said "Don't go now, let the sun be out and have some others to come with you to the temple, it's unsafe due to the high possibility of the bears in the jungle".

Dhumakot

Arun rejected the voice of the old lady and said "we are going to the temple, and our faith will protect us, so have no fear and come along". And I was wondering whom should I believe. So we started to walk. Not even a single ray is out and we two in this jungle, is it safe? I asked Arun. He took out mobile out of his pocket and started to play songs, and said now no animal will come near to us. I again wondered - to compliement him or to lable his as sheer stupid.

I said nothing, just maintained the pace alongwith him.

Divakhal

The sun soon started to appear. And I was relaxed. The path lead us through the dense forest, a small trail with wild grass and rough hard stones over it. Infact the whole region was such - full of wilderness. I was happy to be there - a silence I never observed before, a deserted place that was far away from the maddening crowd and, a life i have never lived before - pure spiritual bliss just like a sage in my soul.

We reached Diva temple around 8:30 A.M after walking some 3.5-4kms though slowly but nevertheless with any stop. My amusement doubled as soon as we reach the temple. It was magnificient. It offered 360 degree view, with Himalaya facing North or the face of temple. Spectacular views, grand highlands and majestic Himalaya in the sight - it is like best of both worlds. I thanked God, and offered our homage to the deity - Diva, by lighting the incense stick and through praying.

Diva temple

Today, my wish to be here is fulfilled, I said to myself. This is something which I have wanted to for a long time. We sat there at the temple for sometime without uttering any word, and it is there suddenly i memorised the song by Narendra Negi that has lines... Diva jani j0t, Diva jasi jot. The reference was in different context but something worth remembering and something that reminds you that your culture existed long before you came into this world.

With tear in my eyes, I felt like being one with The Supreme - though not a new feeling but not the same too - and I relalised how much I have missed my hometown, all these years.

Itinerary:

Delhi-Ramnagar-Dhumakot Distance: (320 km approx; 9 hrs in Roadways Bus; fare Rs. 180 till Ramnagar; Rs. 65 to Dhumakot)

Dhumakot-Divakhal: 15 kms

Divakhal / Deebakhal to Diva temple: 5kms on foot trek; return same way to Delhi or go some place ahead. © Himanshu Dutt, 2010.

Thank You Silence/ Maanila Devi, Almora, Kumaon

2010-10-30T04:09:00.000-07:00

These days – I wish they could just pass away fast. I could not finish my thesis, or concentrate well on my office work. And, I was feeling ugly and waste. I would rather think than talk, looking at various permutations and combinations to find out time to finish the pending tasks. In this ordeal, I would mostly blame ‘the time’ for being responsible for my such state. Time – where to dig it from. But the real problem was not the time but being lazy. And I deemed it as “probably the mind needs rest” just like the locomotive engine when exhausted; and started to plan a brief and quiet trip, just alone.

Maanila Sunrise

Not much time have passed since Rupin Pass trek which I did with handful of friends some 3 months back. However I still can not say if I enjoyed it or not. Probably it had no feeling – only hard feelings like a stone – which could be one reason I never attempted to write Rupin’s account and just uploaded few pics at my flickr account.

But today, I must leave if I have to encash upon two consecutive holidays lined up as part of closing ceremony of 19th Common Wealth Games in Delhi.

With my backpack, I reached office, amidst the grazing eyes of office staff nibbling at me weirdly and commenting at my back. But isn’t that the same I think about them and pity – for they never know the real life; being so lost in this prison system. And my wait started for clock to hit 6 pm though I have been busy throughout the day to prepare and release an ad for the day after.

Marchula - Near Ramnagar

Sachin Tiwari – a fellow colleague in our marketing group proposed to drop me at Anand Vihar. An offer too tempting to resist. Going with him will save me time, and will be really easy and fun. Thanks to him, I reached on time at the bus terminus. If he wouldn’t have dropped me, I would have missed my bus to Ramnagar. He has been a driving force behind writing this trip’s account too, asking me...pushing me to write. Though it’s hard to say – if he loves to read my blog or is it his wife who likes to read things about hills as he quoted some times.

Between Dotiyal to Maanila Devi

Well whatever – this blog is for both of them – the hilli-billies.

Ramagar at 4 am was unusually cold or was it the journey discomfort that sucked all my energy. What a crowded bus it was! Travelled 250 kms sitting on the tool-box just next to the bus door. The conductor Sharma Ji – as Sardar Ji, the driver, quoted his name often times did not even gave me the ticket leaving me to wonder – who has been lucky really? – Me or him.

Me, because I got the bus otherwise my linking bus from Ramnagar to Maanila would have left. Him, because he had an extra income of Rs. 180 multiplied by 2 i.e. me and a kid who was traveling alone, and was made to share single seat with Shrama Ji.

Silver or Sand – Sharma made his silver quite well and for me it’s the sand.

Arun Bhadola, in Joyful Mood

I missed the first bus due to the bully crowd that possessed the bus to Naagchula-khal from everywhere.

I jumped into another bus – another KMOU (Kumoan Motor Operators & Users) – private bus affiliated to state transport authority. Small bus with unclean windows, dim lights, unorganized seating arrangement, with people glued to their seats especially the women while their men did the shopping like fruits, sweetmeats etc on their home-coming.

I was seated at the end of the bus and adjacent to the last bench of the bus that had young women seating in row chatting-up, crazy. Thick smoke came from the front – old men puffing bidis – a normal sight for anyone who frequently travels to hilly regions. So this finding was no amusement I decided to step down. Till this time nobody knew when the bus will take-off. 6:30 a.m came the voice just when I was negotiating the price of apples with the Muslim oldman vendor who had no time to look at me.

Rath Khal

I looked at my watch – 5:00 a.m – still one and half hour to go. I do not know when sleep overpowered me after we crossed Garjia temple barrack. I had choley-chai (snacks) at Marchula some 40kms from Ramnagar at 8:30 around, where the bus stopped. I murmured - not as good as they used be. 9:30 a.m and we are to reach Molley-khal that was another 18-20 kms and then another 12 kms to reach Dotiyal, the place where I have to get down.

Road, Rath-Khal Afterwards

I reached Dotiyal at 10:20 a.m. and instantly recognized Arun Bhadola – a known from our village area. The tall, young man in his early 30s, wearing half sweater waved at me, smiling, as if he has found some treasure inside a coal-mine. I was glad he kept his promise to be with me for this trip. And we two had chai-samosa, typically kumaouni style, topped with raita (curd) and chutney. Delicious, I said while Arun nodded in yes. We started walking towards Maanila Devi temple some 8 km neat stretch from Dotiyal with pine trees both sides.

Maanila Devi Temple (Talla)

We reached Rath-Khal after some 4 km of walk towards the Maanila Devi temple. Another stop and another round of tea and snacks. The air was invigorating, and refreshing with smell of pine. I stretched my lungs to fill the fragrance inside. I have always loved it. We continued to march further on the road with Himalayan view on our left but mostly hidden behind large tree trunks of pines and the silver-birches. It looked like a perfect country side – a nice road, no bus but sometimes few jeeps would pass us and no one’s walking along. Only the loud sound of Garhwali songs playing on the Max mobile handset of Arun in the bright afternoon sun shining high over our heads. A perfect sight, a sheer pleasure and no mental effort.

The Idol of Maanila Devi

We reached the temple at 2:30 pm walking at dead slow pace photographing, chatting and enjoying ourselves thoroughly. We paid our homage to the deity, sat inside the temple for few minutes and planned our comeback. Arun suggested taking jeep to Malla-Maanila – another Maanila Devi temple.

The cab was full and we decided to get down at Rath-Khal. We walked to the market down the road. Luckily the guy agreed to made us Chowmein that tasted really very salty and raw but we tucked it all in. Arun then purchased a quarter of Rum from here citing tiredness as reason. We started to walk towards again on the same road to pay our homage to Malla Maanila. The temple is situated on the ridge and the place was colder than I thought looking at the October sky.

While walking towards the temple, Arun narrated the story behind. Maanila, the Goddess, is the deity of the Salt region in district Almora of Kumaon, Uttarakhand from a long time.

Temple Premise of Talla Maanila

It is believed that Goddess used to talk to the priest of the temple. Then one day, the king of Garhwal, ordered his men to bring the deity to his court from where it is placed in Talla Manilla.

It is said that when King’s men came to take the Goddess; the Goddess raised an alarm to wake up the priest but priest and his family continued to sleep. The Goddess then played a trick with King’s men who came to fetch the idol that night. The weight of the idol of the Goddess became too heavy and King’s men could take the idol only till Malla Maanila.

Malla Maanila

By this time, the morning has broken and fearing that they will be caught; King’s men left the idol there and ran away. Since then the Goddess never spoke to the priest again despite retaining her original place. Another version of the story is extended. While King’s men had put the heavy idol of Maanila down to rest for a while at Malla Maanila, they could not lift it back despite doing their best efforts. Fearing that they would get caught as the sun begins to rise; they tried to cut the finger to take it with them as a proof to king of their loyalty. They did it with great difficulty but by that time they saw the priest and the villagers chasing them, so they ran away with the finger of the Goddess.

Maanilla Devi, the deity, got upset with the people of the region for not protecting her and never again she spoke to the priest or anybody.

Idol of the Goddess at Malla Maanila

Well that was the story, and whatever was the story; leave that to history books or to the talking heads. Just go and visit the place to experience a change. The perfect tranquility and bliss, and don’t forget to thank the silence!

Itinerary (by Roadways Bus): Friday Night: Delhi–Ramnagar (250 kms. approx 6-7 hours). Road is really poor between Kashipur and Ramnagar.

Saturday: Reach Doti-yal (80 kms approx 3:30-4 hrs.) by 10 a.m. Stay at Forest Rest House or book KMVN in advance. The KMVN caretaker was missing throughout the day when we went. According to sources he has tie-up with this private hotel manager who belongs to a localite of the area and helps push the tourists to this private hotel to earn his commissions.

KMVN, locked and uncared

Private hotel option is just one option available who normally charges Rs. 400-500 per night. The hotel offers Himalayan view though rooms are dingy and very basic. We got the room for Rs. 300 on negotiations but then they charged extra 100 bucks on meals. Forest Rest House is perfect option in terms of cost (Rs. 100 a room for night) and location (at the hill-top on a ridge).

Forest Rest House

Sunday: Back to Delhi or further ahead some place with me.
© Himanshu

Lekha Top, Jakhol / Hidden New Paradise

2010-06-02T00:43:00.000-07:00

Almost after 2-3 months have passed, and now today, I decided to write the travel account for my trip to Lekha Top in Jakhol (Uttarakhand). Was I too busy? I introspected myself and dwindled in between yes and no for quite sometime. Anyway, the fact is I am ready now with all the memories coming back again and again. All I am left with to decide which of them to include here. There were too many. Raju, whom I met first during my Kedarkantha trip in late December 2008, was in Delhi for his own reasons. And I begin to plan a trip with him to Har-Ki-Dun, leaving with him only from here.

I called up Saurabh and Manu, enquired with them, if they want to accompany. Both instantly gave their approvals. And the same day we trio gathered at my place and left for ISBT Kashmere Gate, Delhi. Raju was already there, and after one hour we took the bus to Dehradun.

Purola

We chatted and enjoyed our way in quite much cold night that was, when we stopped for a sip of tea midway, wind blowing through our hairs.

We packed ourselves well with all we could get out from our bags and the bus resumed its journey. We reached erstwhile bus station of Dehradun around 5 A.M, and are now waiting for bus to Sankri. The Uttarakhand Roadways started at 6:30 A.M for Purola. I remember having seen the private bus going to Sankri opposite the bus stand some 200 meters away. But we did not take that fearing that he would stop frequently and we might get late.

Mori

The roadways was certainly the better decision in the sense that it reached Purola well in time, taking some 3 ½ hours covering some 110 kms.

Sankri Kids

While Saurabh was completely dozed off to sleep, me and Manu would also at times surrender to sleep and other times would simply gaze through the half-closed window. It got better when sun streamed in with full force, warm nice feeling it was.

During winters, transportation on Hills could get worse limiting the choice and mode. From Purola, we took shared jeep and reached Mori. Few songs that were played on that beautiful jungle road, I’ll never forget. A Nepali song, as I was told, looked to me composed brilliantly. The stretch of some 30 kms between the pines and silver birch on a smooth road was good enough to keep us going.

Sankri

From Mori, we took another shared jeep and completed the last lap of our journey to Sankri, approximately 30 kms, from place called Netwar. Saurabh wasn’t feeling well. He would vomit and had severe sleep during the rides. The last few miles were disaster especially after Netwar. The road was in poor shape but the valley view was quite something.

Sankri atlast, I said to myself stretching my body wide. One needs doing this until the rattling sound of bones opening up is not heard. Saurabh vomited again. Manu was eagerly looking at the place very hungry and so was I. And, we ate our so called meal at 4:30 PM around.

We checked in at GMVN (off-white building in the pic) which had no lights, no geyser leaving us no scope for a hot bath. We managed with little warm water at the eating joints, thanking Manu, for he carried a thermos with him.

The water in the thermos kept us warm whenever we sipped it. Rest was the light of the three candles in a room with 5 beds organized neatly. We had the deal paying for 2 beds instead of required 3 placed in the dormitory, since GMVN was not fully functional. In the evening we went for a stroll further along the road towards Taluka to freshen-up, the snow was all along the road-side and few patches over the road itself. The night we retired without much conversation and barely manageable meal.

Road to Taluka, Snowed

Saurabh still looked tired and down. Though he boasted of doing Kedarkantha or Har-Ki-Dun trek, but to us, he did not looked fine. He vomited again after the tea in the morning. Raju then advised to do Lekha Top, pointing at the small flat terrain on the hill top over the other side of Sankri. It was the first time Saurabh looked in bad health after arriving here.

At 8 A.M we decided to do Lekha Top. Raju suggested booking the cab till Jakhol, as we might not have any bus now. Some 18 km from Sankri; Jakhol is certainly a my kind of place.

Supin River

Enroute however we did spared some time sitting along the Supin gaad (name for the small river/stream) clicking some nice views and self pics.
Supin and Rupin are tributaries of the river Tons near Mori. At Jakhol, we were being seen as some aliens from outer space with all village children hovering around us. We had maggi cooked by Raju’s acquaintances there. Soon after we started walking towards uphill for Lekha top.

Jakhol

Reaching Lekha top was not a pain, some 5kms trek, is quite manageable but snow made it a little tricky and we three would slip on it quite often. We met a villager enroute who was suffering from ‘hangover’, who’d eat snow believing that snow could help him get rid of headache. Strange and pitiful sight it was.

All along the way, I was thinking, why do I want to go back to Delhi? Who awaits me there? Family, Job… but my mind is here, my soul lives here. And I wished only if I was born here. But maybe, then, I would want to be anywhere but not here on the hills. I have seen poverty on hills. It’s the only reason why you’d find people pouring into big cities like Delhi, leaving things behind, which they never had wished.

Mahusu Devta Temple At Jakhol

Lekha top was a flat terrain not much big with a slight slope like view and surrounded from the front side with parts of Himalaya.

Kedarkantha, as Raju pin-pointed in the front, looked massive and all filled with snow that filled me with proudness that I did that trek earlier praising my fortune.

Wooden Houses At Jakhol

The place Lekha Top was certainly not a place for regular trekker but for a amateur trekker like us who would want to sit-back all day long and do nothing but just observe the sight and think nothing, speak nothing. Manu took refuge around a rock covering him from the hard blowing air.

I laid down next to villager to warm up my body in the soothing sun. And Raju and Saurabh were chatting up and clicking the pics.
After a while, Raju interrupted breaking the silence. He said “we will go down from here” pointing to the steep rough small path leading downwards. Manu instantly objected to it citing reason that it may strain the knee and hurt legs. He suggested rather we go the same way, from where we started the trek via Jakhol. But Raju reasoned with him giving justification that taking his way will reduce the distance to half and we could reach Sankri even if we don’t get transport.

On Way To Lekha Top

He added “and who knows we might get lucky enough to catch the bus from Jakhol that comes down around 4 pm”. His argument looked right and Manu and I agreed to go down using his way.

Manu was right. We could feel the strain but our hope for transport had kept us going. We waited for 15-20 minutes for bus along the roadside eating the snacks that Saurabh was carrying. Our prayers were not answered so we decided to walk but not without hope that we might get something on the way.

Saurabh, Manu, Raju and Hangover Guy (in the order)

We walked along the serpent-looked road, down and then up crossing the Supin.

Reaching Lekha Top

Now that we our hopes for transport was gone and it became clear that we have to walk to Sankari. Suddenly the experience became pleasant when Raju declared only 2 more kms pointing at the small path leading upwards straight, to Sankri but at its sight it looked unpleasant to walk.

We were dead tired now that. Around 6 pm we finally reached Sankri and found ourselves placed at a table for tea and biscuits.

Kedarkantha Top

It was chilling with wind blowing through our sweat body. We speak nothing, just sipped through our tea. It just got dark suddenly with stars all over our heads and moon shining high, playing in between the passing-by clouds.

As we came back to our GMVN dormitory to rest before we comeback again for dinner, we took out a moment to gaze at Lekha Top from Sankri. We passed smiled at each other and said “what a day it was”! Not knowing in what sense it was understood by each one of us.

Trio...At The Lekha Top: L to R(Himanshu - Manu - Saurabh)

Some pictures below for reader's understanding of the surronding place plus the video of the steep slope following which we came down... straining our knees... :)

Front View from Jakhol
Kedrakantha Top
Manu (taking refuge around the rock)

Saurabh

Itinerary Followed:

Day 1 (Night): Delhi-Dehradun (240 Kms; 6 hours)
Day 2: Dehradun-Purola-Mori-Netwar-Sankri (180 Kms; 6-7 hours)
Day 3: Sankri-Jakhol (30 Kms; 1 hour)-Lekha Top-Sankri
Day 4: Sankri-Vikasnagar/ Dehradun (full day journey)
Day 5 (Morning): Delhi

© Himanshu
For more pics, visit www.flickr.com/myth_drinker

Jageshwar, The Deodar Heaven

2009-12-05T02:37:00.000-08:00

As soon as the musk of flourishing deodars mixed in the cool air enters into your lungs through a deep breath, you know you have arrived in Jageshwar. The cluster of temples dated back to Chand dynasty who ruled during the 8-9th century, are dedicated to Lord Shiva. It is also said that Jageshwar or also known as Jagnath Mandir is one of Jyotirlinga, of the total 12. However for me, history concerns less and the feeling of being one with the nature matters the most.

Jageshwar Jyotirlinga Temple

It was a friend’s marriage at Moradabad. After much difficulty me and Saurabh managed to hook onto one Uttarakhand roadways bus that was going to Ramnagar from Anand Vihar. Initially the conductor refused to take Moradabad passengers and asked us to cough extra indirectly or take ticket till Thakurdwara, which we agreed too. But soon after as the bus prepared to leave at 4 p.m, the flock of desperate people got into the bus and we found it hard to breathe; but thank God we had the seat.

Scene at Anand Vihar Bus Terminus

After much ado, the driver facing the ire of standing mob, started to pick up with speed but to our fate, it was all jammed in Garh Mukteshwar. We got down in Moradabad around 9:30 p.m. Mohit, saw me and his good ole’ smile touched with warm sense of gratitude. But we both were too hungry for smiles and greetings. I called up my other friends, Anup (curie), Rajendra (ravs) and Deepak (pahari tota) to enquire about their status. Soon all arrived and before the baraat could start, we decided to have some quick snacks, eaten really quickly except for Ravs who preferred enjoying the pegs.

Jageshwar Bazaar

Deepak dropped me and Saurabh to Rampur and left for Barreily. Enroute we saw a corpse with its head chopped and no blood stains on the highway. It was enough to leave us desperate for some moment. Rest the traffic jam got us sulking.

We reached Rampur around 3:40 a.m. Roadways bus dropped us at Haldwani after 1.5 hrs around 5 a.m. We took shared jeep service to Almora, who drove really fast and in another 2.5 hrs we were at Almora, the heritage city of Kumaon.

Cluster of Jageshwar Temples

Next we took another shared jeep to Aartola from where Jageshwar is 3 kms on foot along the neat and fine road or one can opt for paid jeep service. We decided to walk and stretch. Afterall this is what we were there for – to take big long walks amidst the deodars or daruvan. We found ourselves a comfortable place within our budget - Jagadamba lodge, for Rs. 100 a room (N.K. Joshi Ji, 05962-263026). We bathed ourselves in the warm soothing sun and under the cold water from the tap, to prepare to visit the temples that were some 200 mtrs away. We saw fair amount of lodges, and restaurants to our surprise spread within some 500 mtrs towards the temple. This was quite disappointing but then we did not see much people around. And, Saurabh remarked “off season”!

Florishing Cedar (Deodar)

Temples, no doubt, were more than a beauty and much more than delight. A declared national heritage, the temples looked very pious with fine grain of stones chiseled into different pictures of Shiva, all on one single piece of stone, which are nowhere to be found now. We offered our prayers in all the 4 main temples – Mahamrituanjaya, Kedarnath, Hanuman and, most important, Jageshwar Jyotirlinga – alongwith clusters of other temples devoted to the god Sun. We came back to our lodge after taking a hearty meal at a nearby restaurant for Rs. 35 a plate, and slept like monsters. It was when Bisht Ji announced the dinner, at 9:15 p.m we got up and dozed off again. But since we slept early around we got up in the middle of night. First at 2:30 a.m, then at 4:15 a.m, it was still dark; and finally at 6.20 a.m we were out of bed.

Names of Jageshwar Temples

We clicked photographs and offered our last prayer before leaving Jageshwar to reach Vradh Jageshwar. The Vradh Jageshwar temple was some 3 kms straight up to the top of the hill. The route was clean, a bit steep and passes though the thick jungle. It was most beautiful – the feeling of nothingness. And Saurabh remarked “this is the place to be”! I nodded to show my agreement to the statement. We reached Vradh Jageshwar temple around 10:10 a.m in some 1.5 hrs without resting but we occasionally joked about things, with Saurabh caught up in dilemma – whether it was 3 kms, which seemed to him nothing less than 5 kms. But we reached there without any special effort. We met Chokidar, with whom we again confirmed the story of Jyotirlinga of Jageshwar temple. In his words, story goes like this.

“After Parvati dedicated herself to Yagya-Kund, Shiva got depressed and started to roam in the daruvan (deodar) of Jageshwar as a nude sage. Saptkeshwar’s wife who was collecting the kandmool phal (beat roots) got horrified at the sight of nude sage and reported this to husband. The sage Saptkeshwar agitated on this and without knowing that it was Shiva, cursed the nude sage. This place is called Dandeshwar Mahadev – a km before Jageshwar temples. Though it didn’t affect the lord Shiva but then to honour the Saptkeshwar’s word, Shiva himself disintegrated his linga. The 12 jyotirling’s are where Shiva’s linga pieces fell. One of which is here in Jageshwar Mahadev”.

Jungle Trek to Vradh Jageshwar

Though I wasn’t taking much interest, Saurabh was recording this all in his diary, every word cautiously and as being told by this old man in his seventies.

I was rather enjoying the D 80 in my hand to click the great Himalayan ranges visible well from Vradh Jageshwar temple courtyard. We sipped upon tea with Bhatt Ji, the Pujari, after offering our prayers at the temple and bathed in the sun conversing with Pujari and the old man. It was deserted completely – no tourist, no village people. Pujari told us about ‘Bhog’ to the deity at 12 p.m. This is a regular feature at Jageshwar temple as well.

Vradh Jageshwar

But it seemed he didn’t want us to wait for the pua (wheat flour mixed with jaggery and fried in oil), neither had we time. Our future awaited something as per to our plan – to reach Chitai Golu – the famous deity of Kumaon Hills and offer prayers to the lord. We started to depart from Vardh Jageshwar, along the road. After walking some 3 kms, we had our meal at Himdarshan, a lodge, whose owner cooked us Jhuli-Bhaat (kadi-rice), on our request.

We clicked and bathed in the sunlight of the bright afternoon Sun in leisure, ate our meal in the open and in sight of the great Indian Himalayan peaks like Nanda Devi, Panchachuli and many more. We spent some 2 hrs there and by 2 p.m started again to come down to Almora via Panwanaula. We walked some 7-8 kms with our bag-packs and again stuffed ourselves into a jeep. The nothingness, feeling of void, which is scientifically using no brain power and no hence “no-mental load”, was still very much there with us.

Vradh Jageshwar to Panwanaula

Nanda Devi

Panchachuli Peaks

At Chitai Golu, we refreshed ourselves in the slowly setting sun, and chillness of the air. We offered prayer, clicked few photographs and sat quietly. After a while, we found ourselves on the road again walking and searching for a jeep ride to Almora which is some 6 kms from here. This is when a car stopped and the guy popped out of the window asking us to get in, offering a lift. We got in. They were returning from some marriage and and were headed for Rampur. This is how we reached Almora around 6:30 p.m. We thanked them and thanked Golu as well for this comfortable arrangement.

Golu Devta

The trip was a cakewalk this time (if you have read account of my other trips). It gave us ample opportunity to let loose ourselves. To simply become a man self-sufficient in thought, self-contained in mind, and self-sustained in action, in the fertile land of Nothingness and Deodars.

Itinerary we followed:

Friday (evening): Delhi (NH 24) - Moradabad - Rampur - Haldwani (260 kms).

Saturday (morning): Haldwani - Bhowali - Almora (100 kms), took shared jeep @ Rs. 100 each. Again, the shared jeep from Almora to Aartola (35kms) @ Rs. 70 for two. Aartola to Jageshwar 3kms on-foot. Night Halt at Jagadamba Lodge.

Sunday (early morning): Vradh Jageshwar (3kms on-foot), and to Panwanaula (some 8kms on-foot), along the road. Shared jeep to Almora.

For pics please see www.flickr.com/myth_drinker

The Roopkund Story – Silence, Observance & Perserverance

2009-09-04T00:39:00.001-07:00

It was one of those lazy afternoons of May (2009) when I found myself struggling for breath. I occasionally after lunch, try to read some blog. Inside office the AC worked fine, but it was my mind which was dwelling.

Roopkund (shot from Bhagubasa)

I was reading the ‘Almora Boy Pensive’ however not for the first time, I generally do it to browse through pics the blog has. Wonderful! I said when I reached the few last pages of Pindari trip that the Almora Boy mentioned (http://almoraboy.blogspot.com/). Snow all over; it looked so beautiful even to think. And I begin to plan.

Road from Lohajung to Wan

Then just same day after returning from office, I tried to think hard what job and roles might have made me happier. The one, which they show on Discovery or NatGeo with a complicated mix of fun and adventure stuffed together to create excitement. And I said to myself, can I be there? And, I started to search for my Outlook Guide on Uttarakhand. Other morning I started devising plans sampling websites, blogs, looking for ‘rock and a hard place’. Saurabh helped in zeroing and final selection. And we decided it has to be ‘Roopkund’.

The itinerary was soon made but for preparations we had no time. And we – three of us - me, Saurabh & Sanjeev left for the ‘hard place’ with 'rock in our mind'. Sanjeev and I left from my house and Saurabh met us at ISBT, Delhi. Soon we boarded the bus to Rishikesh around 9 p.m. Our hopes to reach Rishikesh by 4 a.m shattered when we found bus driver was not very much keen to drive and frequent the ‘brakes’.

Sauarabh (L) & Sanjeev (R) Gearing Up for Trek

We reached finally around 5:30 a.m and started to walk towards Tehri bus stand.

My eyes were desperately searching for the bus with the fine chalk print neatly written on windshield ‘Lohajung’. But it was not there. Next we looked for the word ‘Karanprayag’. The bus to Karanprayag was full and next bus would go around 8 a.m. And we started to look for shared jeep, cursing the Roadways bus driver who was to be blamed reasonably. 7 a.m and we were still looking. We took auto and went to Dehradun Chowk which had the sort of jeep stand. We paid Rs. 10 each with arguments with the auto driver for some 2kms.

A House At Wan

Atlast we got one taxi that would go but after he has ample passengers to carry, so we wasted time sipping on tea and gossiping. Around 8 we started for Karanprayag finally. Around 2 pm we reached there, and immediately boarded the bus going to Tharali. Then, a jeep that took us some 15 kms from there and we changed bus again for Deval. On reaching Deval, I started to look for the bus.

Sanjeev Enjoying with kids at Wan

One with the board we were looking for – ‘Lohajung’ with fine chalk print on its windshield. It was 4 pm and the bus started for Lohajung. By 6 pm we were there, at GMVN, asking for accommodation and for our guide ‘Mohan Bisht’.

Saurabh @ Forest Rest House, Lohajung

We got the message that our guide could not come and we need to take the equipments on rent and meet him at Bedni Bugyal. We were upset quite much now and tired too. And we decided to look out for a place to rest. We were given the Forest Rest House at Lohajung which was next to GMVN and was not finished yet. The caretaker didn’t give anything but a kerosene lamp in the name of accommodation and charged us Rs. 100. And we came back looking for sleeping bags, tent and mattress at Pujari Hardware Store. Then approached us a lean, tall man who was a guide too. He said he has a group for Roopkund and that we could follow him. He also offered a porter to us whom we found ‘high on attitude’, and ‘low on enthusiasm’ to take us. After deciding on the arrangements, we went to eat and came back around 8:30 pm to our hut, rolled out our sleeping bags and went to sleep.

Scene at Wan

Next morning, we were up by 5:30 all set to go but our guide cum porter came at 7. This angered us. Then he started to behave in an awful manner and got choosey about what he’ll lift and what he won’t despite we agreed to lift out own things. It agitated us and we kicked him out. We took our stuff on our shoulders and began to walk towards ‘Wan’ along the road. It was a bright sunny day. We could already feel the coolness in the breeze and tips of the mountains looked more than green, more closer than they appear. We were quite much enjoying without focusing on what is next?

Kunwar Singh Bisht (L)

Sanjeev was leading, it was strange see him sitting and chating with a villager, and that’s when he said to me ‘someone asking for us’, here after we had walked some 6kms? As I came forward, I was told by the stranger that he has been sent by Mohan, to take us to Bedni Bugyal where he will be waiting for us. We at once rejected him and made him realize the damage caused to us by Mohan. This guy in his mid thirties, looked sober and simple, typical villager, smoking beedi and with his horse on his left, grazing upon whatever stuff it could eat in haste. The guy’s name was Kunwar Singh Bisht and he was Mohan’s Uncle, though looked almost of Mohan’s age, i realised when we met Mohan in Bedni Bugyal.

Valley View of Wan

With small interaction, soon we included him in our pool, decided to have him as our porter-cum-guide and on condition that we pay him Rs. 1200 for this trip including his food who he only will cook. We had everything with us now. But best part was we three were off the load and the tension now. We had ‘Ramu’ the horse carrying our stuff from Kuling onwards now. And we took out the cameras that we were in bags. We reached Wan around 12 pm, we were fast.

We ate our meal here and waited for the showers to stop. At 1 we resumed our quest to reach out for grand Trishul views that I had seen in many pics at flickr.com back in Delhi. Roopkund started to fascinate more and more as we get closer. Bedni Bugyal is some 18kms from Wan village which is land’s end and locked from 3 sides, while Bedni was big grass meadows (alpine meadows) stretched on acres of land (hence called bugyal).

Trishul

We saw the first view of Nanda Ghunti as we started to climb the last ridge and appear out of jungle on a big patch of grass. The sun was settling down fast, and clock showed 6 pm. We hurried to search for a place to camp among the quite few visible. We were too tired for dinner and soon dozed off and after lights went dim from all sides – we started to talk. This was Sanjeev’s and Saurabh’s first time experience in tent. The wind was blowing hard and last I remember was it started to downpour. We were not sleeping, just resting. Saurabh was scared just when Sanjeev said – "looks like wind might blow our tent". To both suddenly Delhi started to look better. After few hours, the sun streamed in and morning was a different day and different story – Delhi again became vulgar and criminal.

Our Campsite

We observed that during our this tour we had less time to talk about self and our attached issues but has much more to observe and walk. I remember Saurabh commenting, “On hills, we actually are constantly fighting with our mind”. The context came from our tiredness and hunger that was proving obstacle in our physical ability to meet our limits. But later we analyzed that we did nothing but the walking and our abilities have actually improved. And now we think of its perseverance, as we mentally prepared ourselves for the next day to Roopkund.

Sanjeev lazily remarked, “I think I would stay back”! I looked at him to confirm from him again. He was not in the mood to walk and therefore we started to walk towards the path to Kali Dak. Kunwar Singh is now leading us. We walked slowly with D80 to capture the best moments of our lives. And after walking for some one and half hour we reached Kali Dak standing upfront before us. It was cloudy and sun was playing hide and seek, though hiding mostly.

View At Bedni Bugyal

We sat to click few pics and then stated to move again towards Kalu Vinayak pointed as a spot by Kunwar using his finger. Tough walk on steep slope and narrow sideways didn’t bother us. It was the food that we didn’t had. We just brought some ‘gud ki sev’ and ‘namkeen’. Though we had eaten ‘kichri’ before starting in the morning.

We reached Kalu Vinayak soon and offered our prayers to lord Ganesha. It was refreshing. I could feel the wind blowing onto my face. Chill it was, but chilling was the view of snow filled valley on the other side. It was all white, the mighty mountains all over.

Nandaghunti Visible in the Back (moving from Bedni to Kali Dak)

And we resumed towards Bhagubasa. From here we just walk along the path in the shadow of mountain. Along the way, we saw three young boys with their guide who had plans to stay at Bhagubasa. To my mind, it was rather not a good idea with temperature subzero and wind blowing us apart. I was feeling sorry for not bringing my other jacket and I already have lost one of my gloves, getting busy with photography. After walking some 2kms more I realized it makes no sense to continue.

Kali Dak Shining High

It could start raining anytime. And I after given it thought again, stopped to sit and see the scenery around.

Kalu Vinayak

The purpose was to not to miss the beauty in walking and reaching nowhere because I knew we would never be able to make it to Roopkund. The reason is not the distance. Infact it is not even 2 km for here. The reason rather is big snow patches that we might not be able to cross. But Saurabh was adamant to go. He continued like a Private in war who is told to march forward, come hell or fire. He crossed one with less effort but then another patch was too big for him and I shouted “Come back”!

It was 2:30 p.m, clouds all over, quite chilling when we trio stopped to take one last view of Roopkund as pointed by Kunwar Bisht. In another 10 minutes, it started to snow and we resumed our journey back towards Bedni, quite satisfied with what we saw.

Scene At Kalu Vinayak

We didn’t stopped anywhere in between until we reached Kalu Vinayak with snow flakes still floating in the air. One last view, a heavy breath and with folded hands to bid goodbye to Ganesha, we started again to comeback to reach Bedni Bugyal by dawn.

Some Views from Bhagubasa

Roopkund (down under gorge)

At Bhagubasa (we met 3 trekkers) Last Shot from Bhagubasa

Valley View from Kalu Vinayak

It was sun shining high at Patal Nachunia, near Kali Dak. We took the short cut following Bisht. Here we took out whatever we had to eat and basked ourselves in the sun though it was not pleasant.

Coming Back to Bedni

The wind was still piercing us. It was around 6 pm when we returned back to Bedni. With us came the dark clouds chasing us, and soon after it started to rain. We quickly went into our 2 men tent that has 3 of us inside in our sleeping bags. Kunwar made us some tea which we sipped delightfully but I had almost lost all my appetite by now. All night it rained, it kept us up though with eyes closed. This is when I tried to recall the scenes that have left impression on my mind. Kali Dak, Kalu Vinayak, the Clouds, the Wind, the Mountains and the Snow, they all are beautiful.

Fog came all along with us to Bedni

But why this ‘night’, and we ‘three’ started to wish for this night to end without speaking to each other. The next morning was bright, sun warming us up but wind continued to blow. We started early around 7 to reach Lohajung. We chose the Ali Bugyal route to come back (not from Wan). Ali Bugyal reminded me of Rudranath trek, vast grasslands, herds and flocks of goat and sheep, open valley view, and complete silence. If you have been there, you would have known how the sweet breeze soothes the brain, leaving you with no thoughts.

My eyes absorbed all that it could do – the parrot green colour of the grass without patches and in perfect symmetry, the path that looked craved out with a chisel, and all I could think of is that

it takes a price to be here surrounded by these mountains and land.

Beautiful Ali Bugyal

We came down crossing the long Ali ridge stretched over some 9-10kms and found ourselves into a thick jungle that is referred to as Tolpani. Coming down was hard and tough. The body was aching, it was slippery all over due to dry leaves and moist soil, and Saurabh slipped again for 3rd time. We again crossed Neel Ganga. It would have been good to rest along the shores. But unfortunately, the rain started soonafter we got to Tolpani. We hurried our way to climb up again towards Kuling, which required some 6kms to be covered.

Last Slope At Ali that we crossed before decending into jungle of Tolpani

Rain was at its best, clouds all over, not willing to let us go. When rain slows down we start to walk with our sheets of plastic covering our body. We touched Kuling at around 2p.m. The scene was different by now. From Ali’s pleasant weather to cloudy and windy, we took it as it came. At Kuling we sipped tea, call our homes and stared again to hit Lohajung. It was almost near so we had nothing to worry except the place to stay and pity for other people who had plans to do Roopkund today. I remember it was snowing at Bhagubasa, forcing us to come back to Bedni.

It was 3 p.m and rain stopped but wind still blowing hard but we three were carefree. We were glad that we are almost near to Lohajung. We finally reached the place around 5 p.m in our perfect leisure. We went straightaway to Pujari Hardware to return his tents and sleeping bags. The old man himself checked up each and every thing that he had rented and after some 25 minutes of examination, he gave us our cautious money back. This time he was polite in behaviour.

Towards Tolpani

We checked in Garhwal Mandal Rest House, and hit the beds in the dormitory. The caretaker was good man from Wan; he gave us the room that has 5 beds for Rs. 100 each. And it started to rain again with voices in the sky. Sanjeev and Suarbah went out in rain around 6:30 or so to get some hot paranthas and tea. We enjoyed till the last piece of it, though our taste buds were not allowing us to say wow! We again got into our beds and started to browse pics in our 3 cameras. Sanjeev missed out the adventure and beauty since he didn’t go to Roopkund (or Bhagubasa), stayed at Bedni. We dozed off before 10 p.m.

A Distance Board At Lohajung

Somebody knocked our window, I got up. The voice said bus leaves at 4A.M. By now Saurabh and Sanjeev were up too. We washed up and packed our stuff. At the sound of the bus horn, we came out and settled in the bus to Rishikesh.

It was one of those wonderful experiences and trips that I have savored and cherished except the nights that are sleepless, and reminds you of home sweet home. And I thought, looking out of the bus window at the river Pindar flowing with us, my footprints of this journey will last for ever, even when I am not around.

Itinerary we followed:

Day 1: Left Delhi at 9 PM for Rishikesh, reached around 5:30-6 A.M (Some 250 kms).

Day 2: From Rishikesh at 8 A.M around took Jeep to Karanprayag, reached at 2 P.M (some 180 kms), boarded bus to Tharali (another 35 kms), jeep to Deval (some 12kms), Deval to Lohajung (50-60kms) reached around 6 P.M.

Day 3: Started from Lohajung (forest rest house) to Wan (some 12kms) via Kuling (centre between both), Jeep road but really a mess; contrary a pleasant walk, Had lunch at 1 P.M at Wan, which is last village enroute. Reached Bedni Bugyal by 6 P.M covering some 28 kms. Pitched our tents.

Day 4: Had breakfast at 7 A.M, started towards Roopkund. Passed Kali Dak, Patal Nachna, Kalu Vinayak and Bhagubasa. (some 13kms one-side). Came back to Bedni Bugyal.

Day 5: Started around 7 A.M towards Ali Bugyal, Tolpani, Crossed Neel Ganga and reached Kuling at around 3 P.M (it started to rain after we cross the Neel Ganga barrage). Reached Lohajung around 5 P.M.

Day 6: At 4 A.M took bus to Rishikesh. Reached by 4 P.M. Had Poori-Choley at Geeta Bhawan followed by sweetmeat at Ram Jhoola, took bus to Delhi around 10 P.M. Reached early morning.

Into the Unknown/Kedarkantha

2009-04-03T03:17:00.000-07:00

Kedarkantha is located in the district of Uttarkashi, however the city is some 190kms from place called Sankri (saan-kari) from where the popular trek to Har-Ki-Dun also starts (jeep goes till Taluka, then on foot trail starts Seema/Osla and Har-ki-Dun). Sankri can be reached from Dehradun via Naugaon-Purola-Mori enroute which is some 170 kms. Till Naugaon, the road moves along with Yamuna and at Mori it crosses the river Mori to move up towards Netwar and then Sankri.

The Top Visible Is KedarKantha

Sankri happens to be the last transport point officially. However hired jeeps go till Taluka which is some 11km from Sankri. Kedarkantha (3810 mtrs) is right above the village Sankri some 9kms steep trek upwards (seemed more than 11kms to me). As one moves up through the dense pine jungle amidst the plateau great Himalayan ranges especially Swargarohini (Badrinath) on the right side becomes visible alongwith Black mountain and the view of Bandarpoonch (Yumanotri) as guide was describing. Sankri

To the front one could see Himachal ranges and guide pointed his finger to the front citing some place called Chang Sheel pass which of course was not getting visible to me. All I could see a 360 degree snow view around me as I stand on a long plateau of farmland to give rest to my aching shoulders from the burden of rucksack. It was for last two times I have been canceling my trips to hills (apology to Manu, Hukum, Saurabh and Kiran for not making it to Gaumukh) due to official purposes that somehow always seem to come just before I intend to take break.
Raju (Our Guide)

And thinking about those 22 leaves I still had in my bag (this is December) and that in March they would lapse, I felt agitated and helpless once again.

Kiran called up on early Wednesday afternoon just before x’mas with his plan, but I still was not sure weather I would be able to make it with him to his dreamland. Thinking about hills was driving me mad and I decided to play a ‘serious performer’ and started toying with ideas that suits best for 2 days leave. Kiran Bhai

And, two days after (on 24th) I fell ‘serious’ ill (the plot worked fine!).

Wednesday 24th night we two met at ISBT Delhi exploring the options we have and Kiran’s idea seem perfect as imagined about a rural cold landscape. Kiran came late so I thought to gather some information from the bus driver who was cleaning the front mirror of this bus to Ponta Shahib. The driver had this flair for singing, speed and chatting which he later admitted and as I experienced (dude was driving between thick fog at 60+ speed) was contrary to other drivers with whom I have been going places.

Har-Ki-Dun Valley

We reached Vikasnagar at 5am in freezing cold. We took tea after getting down. The tea shop owner pointed that we will have to take another bus that would drop us at the place (a famous sweets shop which was some 4kms) from where the bus to Sankri would go. 6 am the bus leaves. We reached some 20 minutes before but the bus left only at 7am with handful of people. I tried to remain awake but soon dozed off. Kiran was already under the spell of sleep (he slept all the way to Dehradun). I didn’t slept much, sun was getting warm and I needed a tea. Me!

The route seemed beautiful with no big towns, no herd of people, and elevated roads with frequent hiccups. We stopped at Naugaon and enjoyed a bottle of Limca each, then another halt at Purola. This halt was for about 1 hour and people rushed into the bus. I guess not many buses go beyond Purola. At 1pm the bus started again and we reached Mori and then Netwar.

Purola

The route after Purola to Mori (50 kms/2hrs) and Netwar (25kms/1hr) was under the forest land and suddenly the civilization started to vanish away. Around 4:40 pm we reached Sankri (18kms from Netwar) and located GMVN. We got the room for 400 bucks with no electricity or hot water facility. It was freezing cold when around 7pm we came down again to market to eat where we inquired for places to visit. Its then only I came to know that Sankri is the place from where the trek to Har-Ki-Doon starts. But we didn’t had time for Har-ki-Doon and the option we were given was Kedarkantha.

Next morning we got up early. While Kiran wanted to walk down and see and picture people around, I was thinking about Kedarkantha. Finally Kiran also agreed for a 2 day trek, and we arranged for guide from the guy we spoke to last night who happens to own the Sankri Himalayan Samiti. Massif of Swargarohini

Our guide Raju was lean and thin man in his 30ties but experienced quite well. He told us about the places he has been to and foreign girlfriends that he had especially the one from Britain who always plan trip with him only. I was rather interested in something else, and said, “Can we please have some tea”! He took us to a hut nearby where we were offered black tea. The guy worked there in fields and lives all alone since he lost his way some 26 years back from Nepal and now works as care taker of fields. Polite and humble with no expressions of regret or thinking of his family (when I asked him about).
Taal along the Way!

We started again and reached a plateau – a big terrace with nothing on it. In front clearly visible were Himachal ranges. I enjoyed what I saw – snow covered and closely arranged mountains with sharp tips. And we continued walking.

Walking about some 5kms we reached a lake that was completely surrounded by thick forest. Guide lighted some fire and served us hot paranthas and tea but we were filled with too much of water and after 1 and half more we rejected to eat. Tea I have always enjoyed.

Break for the Day

We resumed walking upside slowly and after covering about 2kms we stated to see the snow flakes lying all over the field. We decided to halt and camp near to water source. The temperature was dipping and it was indeed freezing cold. We did a couple of shoots and returned back to camp on the call of Raju and begin to blow the fire to fight the cold and warm our night. Later sometimes we were served Maggi and the tea again. Despite out very best efforts we could not light the fire on the log that we had thought would keep us warm until midnight. Himachal Side of Hills

So we retire to our sleeping bags in the camp. Me and Kiran could not sleep well. It was very cold and the tent had 2 holes through which wind was blowing and hitting us hard. Raju was out by 5:30 and he fired the light to make us some tea. Soon we were also up and started to pack the tent cursing the guy who supplied us the gear.

The morning was fresh but walking on snow was getting hard. It was all up-hill way and the fresh snow was making us slip into small pits every now and then. Campfire

We also had no choice since we did not bring any gear to equip us for this undecided excursion.

Soon after Kiran said ‘No’! We were just 1km away from hill top which was clearly visible with four (actually five) stones on the top. Now that the sun was up too and wind was blowing cool, I was enjoying the feel though tired. Kiran shouted again, “I will be here only, you guys go!”

Walking in the Snow

It was getting hard for me too but certainly I didn’t want to leave it here and I followed Raju, our guide. After some 250 mtrs I gave up to. The peak was near and clearly visible were 5 pillars on it of almost equal height. It was an amazing sight which certainly could not be put into words. And I rested for a while uncomfortably though. The snow was making it hard and then the wind piercing my ears. And we both decided to come back. Morning View of Swargarohini

I recalled that it was not the first time I could not touch the point even being so near to it and suddenly I remembered that during my Gaumukh trip also we faced something similar.

Me and Manu, and the cold October end. After reaching near to Bhojbasa (some 3 kms) we decided to come back to Gangotri due to discomfort. We were without any snacks or food, not even the water bottle and the worst was wind blowing that almost had got us down.

Kedarkantha Visible

We hardly could breath properly forget walking. That day we covered some 22kms of to and fro. Indeed an unforgettable moment. A little different but same we duo experinced in Narkanda during our Hatu temple walk between the think ice.

Hard Walk

So we started to comeback from Kedarkantha but not towards Sankri. Instead we opted to climb down towards Netwar. After walking down for some 6kms we decided to take lunch. The maggi again, which I ofcourse disliked. We resumed again after tea.

We continue to walk till the sun went down. However in between we again took a brief break at a village well known to Raju. He wanted us to end the day there itself. Kiran was also keen to stay. But his purpose was to capture people and village life in his lens, while I had the forest rest-house in my mind which I had seen at Netwar along the road over a small ridge.

Along The Great Indian Himalaya

Unfortunately neither we stayed in the village (I insisted to reach Netwar) and nor went to Forest rest-house at Netwar (we thought what if we don’t find any place there to sleep). We just had quick sip of warm soothing tea. Raju took us to a nearby village just a km before Netwar market. It was his relative’s. We spent the night in comfort except the snoring of Kiran which often annoyed me but then I was too tired to notice properly.

Me & Raju, Doing Our Best

Next morning at 8 around we took the private bus to Purola and then from there Uttarakhand Roadways to Dehradun via Mussorie. At 7pm we reached Dehradun and filled our stomachs quickly. Then we took the night bus at 9pm from the Roadways bus stand. I remember I met the same guy who came with us till Vikas Nagar from Delhi. We chatted for an hour or so and then I dozed off.

Raju, Basking in the Sun in the Village

I might have fallen to sleep but in my mind was with all those people whom I met during this trip and after a while I reminded myself two words –

‘Born Again’.

For pics please see www.flickr.com/myth_drinker

Road to Rudranath Part 2/ Gopeshwar, Garhwal, Uttaranchal

2008-08-30T02:57:00.000-07:00

It was around 5:30 in morning when I woke up after a deep sleep though my body still was aching. I came out from the dormitory onto the side balcony and stretched myself. It was still dark outside and silent. One could see the giant gate on right that welcome tourists while bus stand of Gopeshwar at the left. Gagan was up to, and then almost all one after another.

We refreshed ourselves and the Independence Day parade down on the road started with student representative from different schools marching with their school flags followed by other students in long queue.

School Parade, Independence Day. Also seen is the gaint gate in the backdrop.

One after another, the student of all class and size; boys and girls; in blues and reds and whites and greens; passed by like marching ants in perfect line and the teachers mandating the line and their behavior. I clicked few of them but there was low light. Meanwhile our time was ready and out for adventure. But there was no transport to drop us at Sagar to start our adventure.

We spotted a jeep, two fellows smoking and talking inside. They agreed to give us a drop for 100 bucks which we readily agreed for. Sanjeev and Mohit started to gag among themselves and then soon the environment became lively with Sanjeev and Gagan streaming in. I was enjoying quite much but we were late by some one and half hours. The time was 6:50 am. We reached Sagar some 6kms from Gopeshwar. The gate along the road says, ‘Rudranath Ji Mandir Ka Rasta - 22 kms’ and the small iron gate was locked. So we jumped.

Sagar, the start point of Trek

We met two locals on the way after walking 2kms. One was the meat-seller and was going to fetch some meat from Shepherds at Panar. The other one did not talked or introduced. They asked about us and asked us to join them to smoke ‘Bhangnath’ (Opium Grass). Mohit volunteered and took few drags. We started moving up again.

Next I remember meeting an old village woman (from Gangolgaon, a nearby village) who was also going to the temple. And we started walking along. Sanjeev was with me and the other three fellows were behind us. Me, Sanjeev and the old lady were walking along. Soon we reached a flat ground which was some 5kms from Sagar. It had one ‘Rudresh’ Dhaba. We decided to sit and wait for our companions to come. Soon they came and together we sipped upon tea and ate maggi.

Meat-seller (left) & his companion

The old lady took tea with us while awaiting for her companions from another village to come and join her there. Soon people flooded and we were like a herd of coloured sheep. The time was 9:50. We resumed our trek. The real trek starts from here. Till Panar, it was some 9kms sharp, steep uphill trek. The track was all muddy and quite slippery. Our eyes could see clouds approaching us fast. And in no time the downpour started gradually.

We had our raincoats out soon. We (me and Sanjeev) lost our companions (Mohit, Gagan and Sanjeev 2)) again and joined the villagers and a group of 6 students from IIT Roorkee. Sanjeev would often sit for rest, ask me to wait for him and make faces while cursing his life. In the meanwhile villagers were out of sight.

Sanjeev-2(green); Sanjeev (khaki) and Mohit (black) seen here with Villagers

I would ask him to speed up despite knowing that we were not in competition to anyone. Villagers any case have this competitive advantage over anybody who would occasionally go to such straight uphill treks. I was also feeling tired by now and the path between the damp land, slippery surface, dense forest and amidst fog and occasional rain won’t end. Besides, the other three were nowhere to be seen.

We must have covered some 6kms by now which total amount to be around 11-12kms. The time was some 1:30 now. We decided to halt down near a water source and eat the bread and butter that we were carrying. Now that we two were alone and all the villagers and even the IIT guys have disappeared.

Lots of water streams & falls were visibile along the route

After 20 minutes, we started again. Sanjeev was agitated. Resting too often. Asking me to slow down, shouting from behind. Me too was tired but I had to keep ourselves going. I was wondering how come everyone could get so much ahead of us that they become hardly visible from the place we were at. I doubted my capabilities too. We both were by now become so much negative. I was also worried about my fellows who were still down and assumptions surrounding my mind – Would they come along or just return back from there?

Sanjeev was not carrying any cell phone and my Idea connection displayed ‘no network coverage’.

Soon 3 villagers crossed us whom we asked about our fellows by giving them the description of them. To our shock we were told that our friends were still quite down. And, I again feared about them – if they would come or not.

Clouds floating upon the Valley

At 3 around we reached Lyuti Bugyal, and found little comfort in a small hut owned by Bisht Ji. We were half wet. It would rain sometimes and than after a flash it would go and then keep coming back and again. But at Lyuti, it got worse. It started raining hard. We took shelter under the roof. Sanjeev stretched himself on the big black plastic sheet spread over the dry grass as a mattress after eating. This was the only provision to sleep the night at Lyuti Bugyal. However, Lyuti was a plain terrace on the ridge on the chest of the mountain and the head was not too far now.

The head was the Panar, our destination for today. From Lyuti we started to march again after great resistance from Sanjeev, but I was adamant. As rain slowed down, we resumed. We would often sit and walk and then sit. We could feel our heart sinking. It was a state of breathlessness. We walk little, and get tired so we would sit down soon.

Fog & the Jungle

It was getting quite tough for us to climb with our bagpacks. It was cloudy all over and rain may comeback anytime soon, I said to myself.

Sanjeev at Lyuti Bugyal

We reached Panar finally, which was 2 kms from Lyuti, in more than one and half hour at 4:30 pm. It started to rain again and we moved to a hut nearby.

The guy arranged for our rest while we ordered for tea. We were dead tired having walked some 13-14kms overall. And, Sanjeev found his comfort over the mat, covered with blankets on the ground which was not certainly clean and smell of goat and sheep.

He covered himself with two blankets and retired to sleep. I retired soon after clicking few pics around and sipping tea. The time was some 5:10. The rain stopped and sunshine recovered.

Panar was the flat terrain of vast grassland, a plateau with 3 small huts that belonged to shepherds. Although only one was commercially operating. We slept however semi-conscious in the cold since it got chilling in the night and the surface under the mat was uneven and not true flat. It was not a good night I realized when often I woke up first at 2 am, then 3:20 and finally up at 5:30 at the sound of footsteps of ponies. Ponies made themselves comfortable under the steel shed outside our room which later I got to know were the forest property.

One of boys of the Hut at Panar

It was raining outside. Everyone else was sleeping. I suddenly remember some village girls were singing songs last night in the adjacent room which was not very much entertaining but then I had nothing else to listen to except the sound of rain drops on the steel shed and Sanjeev’s snoring.

I asked Sanjeev to get ready. In the meanwhile I ordered the guy in the hut, for a bucket of hot water to bathe and tea to drink. We were ready by 6:30 to do the remaining of the trek. Sanjeev suggested why not request the hut-guy to call up at Lyuti and ask whether our fellows are there or not.

I appreciated his point and requested the person. He agreed and sent his boy for the same. The boy would hold the reliance cell phone up in the air and locate for signals while walking towards a particular point where he knew signal would come.

Me @ Panar, awaiting to make call to Lyuti for my friends

I was with him and I managed to speak to my friends who rested at Lyuti Bugyal. I told Gagan to come up. Soon they were up in an hour while I sipped upon another tea and Sanjeev on phone with his ‘her’ on the phone that he borrowed from Sanjeev-2. I clicked few pics. It was pouring from the clouds though marginally.

Soon all three of them up were up and we rejoiced the moment of our re-union. I inquired with them why did they could not manage to reach Panar. The answer - Gagan was unwell. The other day he ate some 7-8 corns at a time despite my best efforts to stop him.

Sanjeev at the Hut, we stayed the night in room on left to the Hut (seen open window in the pic)

I giggled in my mind while Mohit smiled exposing his frontline teethes out of which one was missing. We left our bagpacks at Panar only and started for the road again. Road to Rudranath Ji, that is now more enjoyable with all 5 of us together. But soon this joy ended when again we begin to experience the tiredness but for me it was due to empty stomach. The time was 8:30 and we covered some 2kms from Panar.

Gagan leading this time shouted my name in excitement after seeing the gate that resembled the gate of the temple at Tungnath just before the temple comes at some 500 mtrs. Gagan thought we were almost there, at the temple. Little did he knew that temple is some 5-6kms from here.

Happy Trio (We met at Panar)

We walked along the hill side and after we cross this temple gate look alike, we were inside the valley. The trail first goes down and then along the hill side with front side (opposite to hill) opens wide. If weather would have been clear (no mist), one could see the great Himalayan ranges along the valley. But we preferred the rain drenched, wet muddy land and cloudy views over it so there we were experiencing it. We reached the temple at 12:30 around. Almost everyone that once walked with us the other day – the villagers, IIT boys and some others, were returning back.

Gagan overjoyed seeing temple gate

Villagers went to celebrate Poornima and Rakhi otherwise it is rare that people could be seen walking to Rudranath Ji due to this tough trek. Perhaps among the toughest of the treks in India. We waited for Mohit and Sanjeev to reach. Gagan suggested waiting so that we all could offer our homage to the deity, together. So we ordered for tea. It was raining again. I preferred not to come inside the hut or to sit beside the fire like Sanjeev-2 and Gagan did. I enjoyed standing out, watching people, sometimes the temple in the front on my left and enjoy the nature. The floating clouds could make you fall in love with the anomaly with which they change shape. All I could do is imagine with a thoughtless chase for them.

We all joined in to perform the ritual. We paid our homage to the Lord Shiva without His permission we could not have been invited here. We thanked the deity and sought His blessings. The priest gave brahamkamal to each one of us. And, then we were offered mahaprasad and invited to eat at bhandara the poorie-choley that I have been eyeing on since I saw people enjoying them. We five and Priest@ Rudranath Temple

They really tasted as good as the atmosphere was full of serenity and pureness. The drops from heaven, the vast grasslands and small purple flowers stretched all over, streams swelled with water flowing carelessly; and the face of the deity that has impressions I still could recall.

We started soonafter for come back to Panar. We dislocated again while coming back. I did it intentionally to preserve the scenes that I had experienced and was now exercising in my mind. I took some of best shots here while coming back.

Trail moving along the valley that leads to temple

Enroute Panar from the temple

Approaching Panar (Backview towards the temple)

Great Meadows & Vast Grasslands

Finally Panar

The weather was now that fine and rain stopped completely for the first time in last 2 days. The mist disappeared and it appeared all green all over. I was completely overjoyed. I would sometimes sit, sometimes lie down, smell the air, try to put it all in one go into my lungs and breathe out with ease. I was again thoughtless and chasing the views with my two eyes wide open.

Finally I reached Panar. Already Gagan and Sanjeev-2, had bundled themselves into sheets of blanket laid to rest. I ordered for milk. I wandered outside a little and then started to seek my place to rest.

Gagan & Sanjeev-2 comfotably numb

Soon, Mohit and Sanjeev also came. Sanjeev seemed to be in more painful state. I helped him in changing his wet clothes and he slept in between me and Sanjeev-2 as soon as he lay down. He looked unwell.

We were not sleeping and neither talking. This time we got our bedding within the hut all five of us in a row. We had walked today some 16kms and all wet and tired. We took moderate dinner on bedside only and then I took some hot milk.

Morning we all were up by 6 and started to come down from Panar. Sanjeev was in bad taste. Deprived of good food, and tired of walking. We all had swollen legs, blisters and we were wet again. The rain started again.

Going Down (Back to Sagar)

Raincoats did not help much. Infact to me it seems umbrella is much better an option. It atleast allows you to breath. We were chasing a trail downwards that would seem nowhere to be ending. But we knew it would end. While it was getting hard for us to get down due to slippery surface. Every now and then we would slip on the mud or get our shoes wet while crossing the streams.

It stopped raining just when we reached back to Sagar but now for all of us we would never stop discussing this experience with the people about this road to the temple of Rudranath.

Itinerary Description

Day 1: 14th August 2008 - Rishikesh @ 7 AM (Boarded On Bus from Delhi at 12 P.M on 13th which is some 260Kms), Took Bus for Gopeshwar @ 9:30AM, Reached Gopeshwar @ 4 PM (210 Kms from Rishikesh, raining whole day), Rest at GMVN dormitoary @ Rs. 100 per bed.

Day 2: 15th August 2008 - Gopeshwar to Sagar (6kms) by Jeep, Paid Rs. 100/- and started trek@ 7:30 AM to Rudranath (some 22kms on foot of which 7kms is very steep and tough) Reached Panar covering some 14 kms and Night Halt.

Day 3: 16th August (Rakhi & Poornima) - Started trek @ 8 around and reached temple after covering 8 kms at 1 PM, Paid our homage to Lord Shiva and started comeback, Came to Panar back @ 5 pm and clicked lots of pics enroute.

Day 4: 17th August - Started early morning @ 6 AM and reached Sagar by 12, took bus and reached Gopeshwar and after lunch for Rishikesh, Reached Rishikesh amidst heavy rains and lots of landslides enroute @ 9 PM. Boarded Bus for Delhi @ 10:30 p.m and reached back @ 6AM. Then office @ 9:40 AM… with swollen legs…very hectic!!!

Road To Rudranath Part 1/ Gopeshwar, Uttarakhand

2008-08-27T02:17:00.000-07:00

Just when I was busy deciding the itinerary for the upcoming trek to Binsar, near Thailisain in Garhwal, I received call from Gagan. He asked “where we’d go this time?”

I remember of having told him multi times about the Binsar plan including the last Sunday when I visited him and yet he asked. His vocal seemed to me low on enthusiasm and bitter as compared to my excited travel mood. How enthusiastically, I have been waiting for this Independence Day weekend to come and the chap now is asking 3 days before – where?

Sagar, this is where the trek starts from

I again narrated the set of the story to him and the itinerary that I was in the process of designing when in the middle he asked “Would that be really good? I mean like the Tungnath trip?” And, I begin to wonder what has triggered this comparison. Soon I understood there is no point exciting him with what Binsar might offer us. I gave up without resistance as he started to mention the Tungnath scenes which I thought useless to compare with Binsar. It is because the only commonality between them was that – both were the temple and form of Shiva, the deity.

And I suggested “let’s go to Rudranath”! This existed as an alternative option in my plan. I have been browsing a lot about this on the internet, and even consulted Manu, my friend, as well for his views on this trek. Since we had less time in hand I was less keen on doing the Rudranath trek and then I knew it’s a tough trek too.

We, the trekkers! (Five)

But, I asked Gagan to see some pics of Rudranath on flickr.com which he promptly did the same time. He exclaimed with a certain tone and enthusiasm “kya scene hai… mast hai yaar” and I knew that I will have to design a new travel plan now. Next day, I chatted with Manu on gmail, requesting him to prepare me a travel plan while I too was looking for the information on Net to plan the itinerary. He readily agreed and by next day mailed me the desired info.

Then just one day before at 7 in the evening, right when we had to leave for the trip on August 13 night, Gagan called up and said to postpone the trip to 14th night, since he needed a day to prepare and submit his MBA assignments.
Depriving me of this trip was unthinkable as I had prepared and planned it for quite much a time. Almost a quarter of people in my office know that I had planned a trip and which I would describe to them with sheer thrill. However, all this time, I forget to apply for leave and now I feared the tension about the grant of leave.

Villagers... moved really fast. Next day was Rakhi and Poornima...so these people want to offer tribute to Bhagwan Rudranath ! Though we wanted the same as well...

It was Bimla Madam whom I approached with my request for leave for two days with complete plans. I fear what if I might be asked to be present here for any meeting.. Bimla madam suggested writing a mail to Sir which I did after a small thought on what I should tell sir (that I want 2 leave for trekking and how he would have reacted. God, I was in big dilemma).

Parallel to this, there was this other group who was interested in coming along – Sanjeev and Mohit. Both were known to me for some 3 years almost. While Mohit had a limited interaction with me, Sanjeev would often call and tease me – where we would go, with a touch of emotional element. Sometimes duo would speak to me with weirdly excitement and I would smile within me thinking – how ignorant they were about my plans for trek!

While my conversations with Sanjeev and Mohit grew more regular regarding the trip, I found them pulling my legs more often when I would say would you guys be able to walk a lot since we were required to cover 22kms bare foot uphill climb. They would giggle and convey me their excitement with boast about their strengths that they thought I was underrating. And, I said to myself, how much ignorant these two fellows are?

I was clicking enroute, covered some 5-6kms so far

It was 11 pm August 12th night, Gagan came to my place. I suggested him to come over so that we two could sit together and prepare his assignments which we could only start at 1:00 a.m. around. I finished one by 2:40 a.m and went to sleep. Gagan slept too. In the morning at 5:00 around, I saw Gagan already up. Soon he prepared himself, we sipped our tea, and he was off to his college with promise to reach at ISBT Kashmere Gate by 10:30 p.m. Soon I started to load my bagpack.

I reached office and just when about to resume work, Sanjeev called up and in low tone spoke to me about his issue. It was about a life insurance policy that he was required to sell. Unless he would give some business today to his firm he was employed with, he can not dare go. He was given a dose from his boss who happened to be a strict lady this morning. To endorse his seriousness, he called up twice and then thrice and many times then till he took my words that I would help him to get a policy from my source when we comeback.

I wondered how much dependent people are on people. I wanted him to come along for the trip and he needed me to save his job. So we were interdependent instead of independent as I thought about it right when e-mailing my heartiest wishes to my seniors and colleagues at the office for upcoming Independence Day.

15th August @ Gopeshwar School students marching with pride shouting sologans 'Hamara Bharat Mahan'... Yes it is... Why though is not clear...

I reached Kashmere Gate at 09:50 p.m waiting for Sanjeev and Mohit who gave me their words to reach on-time. But they did not come by the said time and neither called up to give reason. Same happened with Gagan. Clock crossed 10:30 but he never bothered to call me. So first I called up Sanjeev, and he said in 10 minutes he would be there. Next Gagan did not picked up at all. After 15 minutes at 10:45, Sanjeev called up and asked for 2 more minutes. I was feeling very agitated. Sanjeev and Mohit arrived after some 12 minutes at 11:00 p.m. I gave a good lecture to both of them which I know would hardly have any impact on them but I delivered right there.

Next I called up Gagan. This time he picked up and said in 10 minutes he would reach citing that he has taken an auto and now awaiting his friend to come at Ashram Chowk, which I reacted with harsh words. I was infact determined to leave without him but somehow he got me believe in his words.

Walk through the dense forest amidst the mist ...and weather signaled RAIN!

And, next I called him up again at 11:30 to which he said “its raining here, I am struck up in traffic”! Another call I made at 12:15 wondering how much careless someone could be for not understanding somebody else’s feelings especially when this somebody is a long time friend. I was feeling irritated and could have left him to his fate but instead I continued giving lecture to Sanjeev and Mohit for their untimely time management. Gagan never bothered to call back to tell about himself. The one good excuse he would give every time I called was about the load of his assignments. Finally he reached with his friend named Sanjeev, a short heighted slim chap not looking very cheerful. After Gagan apologized then only I returned back to my normal taste. Now we had two ‘Sanjeev’ – 1 & 2.

We boarded the U.P Roadways bus at 1:00 am for Rishikesh which was some semi-full. In the bus I introduced them to each other and soon we went into trance called sleep though awake individually.

Bisht Family, we met at Lyuti Bugyal, after walking some 11 kms. The time was 3:20 pm.

We reached Rishikesh at 7 a.m on 14th morning. Next we walked up towards the Tehri bus stand of Rishikesh to get our bus to Gopeshwar with our bag packs. I again resumed my lecture and aggression for having started late from Delhi and having missed the 4 a.m Uttarakhand Roadways bus to Gopeshwar. The group listened and ignored and chose to sit down for breakfast.

Me and Gagan took bananas – 3 each, while rest of the team had Choley Bhatoore and Paranthas. I was continuously pushing them to rush up the things to reach our destination on time. But who cares!

Our time management was poor. So often we had clash. I try to drive them fast while they maintained their own pace. The problem with me was that I wanted us to reach as soon as we could, while my fellows did not seemed interested in the itinerary planned and had laggard approach. It was the clash of seriousness with non serious and leisure type attitude which I and my fellows - both did not like.

Sanjeev-1 pretty much at comfort at Bisht's until i said we wont stay here and have to move to Panar. He was depressed walking for so long hours since 7:20 am.

At 9:00 am we boarded G.M.O.U bus to Gopeshwar which started at 9:30. Like most of the drivers, he also displayed the state of no emotions and smoked. We passed Devprayag where we had kadi, choley and chawal; Srinagar, where me and Sanjeev-2 got down for SBI ATM Service; Rudraprayag, where we tasted some sweetmeat and; Nandprayag where the bus conductor informed us to board another bus already waiting, for rest of the journey. The swapping was done due to less onboard passengers. But soon others poured in.

Panar, finally!

The distance between Rudraprayag and Nandprayag was some 40kms that covered Gauchar enroute; moving along the river Alaknanda from Srinagar though I missed out most of the sight seeing in between as I fall prey to the lord of the sleep. I woke up as the bumber of the bus jerked and i feared about my camera which was just above it little above over the rear tyres of the bus and saw the watch. It was for 25 minutes that i had slept total but that was effective. We guys haven't had slept for last night whole and this day whole.

God, we look like zombies... No, the smiling zombies! At 5 pm we reached our destination Gopeshwar. We got out of the bus and i lead them to GMVN for accomodation. We took the dormitory @ 80/- per chap. The best part was the room that had only 5 beds which perfectly fit our group size and allowed no scope for for more people. Almost all of us damn tired but showed no weakness or ailing sign. We refreshed ourselves and went down to the market which starts where the GMVN's stairs end, hunting for GOOD food. we have been surviving on biscuits and namkeens and on a shared i-pod!

Back to back... starting our trek from Sagar :) at 7:20 am

It felt great. Mohit brought the bottle of Old Monk out of the bag and some of us said Cheers!

See Part 2 / Road to Rudranath for the next half of this 'wet, on-the-run story'....

The Enigma of Things/Chiliyanaula, Ranikhet, Kumaon, India

2008-07-17T02:35:00.000-07:00

Ye na teri...na meri, ek din bus...bhagwan teri... I suddenly recalled this Himachali song from the Beat of India CD that I borrowed from Manu the other day. Though lyrics were yet to be traced out and understood well but still I would say it had the feel which I needed to keep myself walking. I was alone but thoughts have got me talking to myself and the distance was still some 6 kms. It did not amused me to be alone since I didn’t asked anybody to come along and above that I was enjoying this misty weather around and cloudy surfaces above me. Anytime the rain would start, I said to myself. Pines (that makes up the Ranikhet that means queen's meadows)
I was just out of this Delhi–Almora Uttarakhand Transport Corporation bus that I boarded the night before, from Anand Vihar ISBT, Delhi some 9 pm and, got down near the bridge. The time was 7 am. I took morning tea at a small restaurant which had just opened up. It was chilling amidst the fog as I awaited bus or jeep – whosoever comes first to get a drop to Ranikhet. First, came bus, and then the jeep but all full. Then, again came another jeep followed by two buses, off which, the later one I managed to get but not without any struggle. I just jumped before it. Reaching Ranikhet, I decided to go to Chiliyanaula as the place was too crowded and looked sordid and moreover I had a rough plan in my mind which was indeed peaceful. Therefore 6 kms did not look much to me to cover on foot though a jeep ride for Rs. 10 could be taken. I preferred walking.

But this time, I took the Haldwani route which goes via Moradabad, then, Rudrapur covering some 280 kms. The route then covers Jeolikot, and takes the road that goes to Almora covering Kainchi Devi temple just before Khairna comes from where now it straight road goes to Almora and the one bending towards the bridge over the river Kosi to Ranikhet. Both places at some 30 kms from here but my mind was made up.

Khairna (The Bridge Over Kosi and the road seen here goes to Ranikhet)

I was just out of this Delhi–Almora Uttarakhand Transport Corporation bus that I boarded the night before, from Anand Vihar ISBT, Delhi some 9 pm and, got down near the bridge. The time was 7 am. I took morning tea at a small restaurant which had just opened up. It was chilling amidst the fog as I awaited bus or jeep – whosoever comes first to get a drop to Ranikhet. First, came bus, and then the jeep but all full. Then, again came another jeep followed by two buses, off which, the later one I managed to get but not without any struggle. I just jumped before it.

Baba Haidakhan Ashram at Chiliyanaula

Reaching Ranikhet, I decided to go to Chiliyanaula as the place was too crowded and looked sordid and moreover I had a rough plan in my mind which was indeed peaceful. Therefore 6 kms did not look much to me to cover on foot though a jeep ride for Rs. 10 could be taken. I preferred walking.

Picture of Baba Haidakhan (inside Ashram)

Walking - thinking, walking - observing and, walking – trying to understand the complexities of life that ends with simplicity which we never realize. Sometimes thinking lead us nowhere – no conclusion, no solution - only empty situations whose burden has to be carried till we dominate our brain or perish the cause. But, for me both the things seemed difficult so I would travel to occupy myself.

A Peaceful Evening View from Chiliyanaula

I was quite not coherent neither I wish to be, but off-late thinking about how much good these hills have made to my life. My survival quite much is dependent on them. They are to me a friend, my first love, destiny and a world. Finally I reached the destination. I chose not to sleep and visit the Baba Haidakhan ashram. It was a fortunate day with light showers and soft breeze touching up wet hairs from the mist. I sat there for a while and came back to my rest-house at KMVN, which was adjacent to the Ashram. I ordered for tea and ate paranthas, then slept for 2-3 hours.

The Clouds Swollen With Water

At 12:30, I was again ready to take a stroll and decided to go down the road that was narrow and leaves no scope for any vehicle to ply. It connected to some village down. I decided to sit after I saw a flat field which gave stunning 360 degree view to both sides of the valley. The clouds were forming again and I returned back to the rest house after some half an hour. It rained soonafter while I ordered my dal-chawal with dahi, and witnessed the thunderstorm and downpour.

Walking around the road to Ranikhet

At 3 around, I decided to walk a bit towards Ranikhet. The view seemed greener than usual and fresh with water drops shining over the pines and deodar in the evening sun sort scene. I could smell the vintage aroma of pines as I tried pulling all of it inside my lungs in one go.

I saw children playing cricket, a school hostel upside the road and some tourist passing by the road who stops now and then to click the pictures of beautiful meadows surrounding.

Chiliyanaula (Seen here is Ashram and in the background Ranikhet with clouds all over)

I returned back once more to ashram after walking few kms to and fro. I sat there in silence though this was the one thing that I have been observing since last night. Sometimes silence is wonderful, it soothes and it creates ripples in your brain to analyze what worth you deserve.

An Evening View from KMVN Rest House

Next day, I had two choices - to spend the day at Ranikhet visiting Chaubatiya apple orchids which was nothing more than poorly managed gardens where you have to abstain yourself from plucking the apples and the high tension wires (normally to restrain the animals in nights to destroy the garden) that if you try to cross from within can give you a shock of your life. Or I could go to see Binsar, the temple of Shiva which was some 20 kms from this place. Morning View from Rest House

I was told earlier that alone in Garhwal region; there are some 20,000 temples of Shiva in various forms. The statistics did not surprise me because in any case Lord Shiva is more popular than any other deity. It is also said that more than half the deities are the forms of Shiva. Anyway, I chose to visit Binsar, not because temples are worth a visit but because I have been there before and I knew it is different set of silence that awaits me there. After all I meant to be still and silent.

Mela at Binsar Mahadev

I approached the taxi – a maruti 800 for a price of Rs. 50 a seat and comforted myself. We were four inside the cab and soon ready to hit the road. Beeru, our race car driver was driving over the cloud no. 9 and I realized it was the mistake. I feared- not my life but the views I was missing and asked him to either – play slow or let me just get out. He understood soon what I wanted while other 3 locals kept mum.

Colourful Crowd at Binsar Mela

I became the fan of Lalit Mohit Joshi ever since I heard his album ‘teri bholi anwar’ that featured quite some songs for all the moods, and there he was singing in the cassette and me singing along and Beeru understood I was a locale too.

It was another fortunate day linked with the sentimental decision – to be myself or to lose myself. I had to lose myself to find it all. I was prepared quite much.

Binsar Mahadev at Sauni, Ranikhet-Ramnagar Road (some 20 kms from Ranikhet)

Binsar happened to be full of motley crowd while temple in the setting appeared very much white made up of marble and looked fine after repeated rains. Despite the light showers, and misty weather; the crowd already was multiplying but it was nevertheless noisy. The loudspeakers all over the place could be heard chanting aarti and shlokas and sometimes wishing the visitors. It was a colorful sight with white and green in the backdrop.

Binsar Mahadev(a closer view)

I paid my tribute to Binsar Mahadev, and came along the road towards upside rather have taken the jungle path. There was Bhandara ongoing inside the temple premise and it was still slow down pouring outside. The Last Upside View At Binsar Before Leaving

I catched up with Beeru again as he awaited some new passengers. He said ‘kya aap Ranikhet waapas jaoge’ and I nodded with a smile. I offered him tea alongwith those 3 guys at Sauni market. We chatted up about almost everything and he offered me to show things around Ranikhet which I politely refused. I remember he had talked about Someshwar which he had plans to take a couple the next day, and asked me to accompany for this day’s visit. I said yes and got down at Chiliyanaula since he happened to going there only.

Last Evening of Chiliyanaula

It was 4 around; I ordered for tea and sandwich and came to my room. I rested a little wondering I re-visited to see Ranikhet which I never went to see.

I wondered, how much true it is that – we think and plan something and we do and act something and I begin to evaluate - should the life be planned? In my case I am still drawing the line.

Tungnath by Luck/ Ukhimath Revisited, Garhwal, India

2008-07-14T00:55:00.000-07:00

I certainly looked happy but inside had been hiding sentimental feelings that I did not let come out. I had resigned and will be relieved in next 10 days or so. I didn’t do much reasoning with mind and asked Saurabh, if he wishes to come to a trip with me and, he readily agreed. Saurabh in his early 20’s looked quite thin and lean and was known to have aggressive personality than an average standard when it comes to presentations. Now that, I have known him for 2 years but we have not been on any trip. I first met him in his BBA class where I taught Business Strategy, and the exchange of communication thereupon grew on the classroom notes. Today, we leave for an unknown destination as I searched hard and zeroed upon choices what place should we visit? I had more than a week to dedicate while Saurabh had just been through with his internal exams and had days to dispose. He brought his bag in the afternoon to the institute and accompanied me to my place. I had my bag ready almost and soonafter at 7:30 pm we left for ISBT with still no clue to what place we shall be going? I recalled last time I had plans to visit Madhyamaheshwar but could not visit due to bad weather and less time at hand (due to which we also could not cover Deoria Taal) but never regretted that. So we decided to cover the place now. I had been to Ukhimath before with Gagan when we covered Tungnath (though we could not see Chandrashila due to the heavy weather), so the place was almost known to me and I thought to show Saurabh the mountain world while I look for known companions in the area like Chamola Ji - the Caretaker, Negi Ji - the Cook at GMVN, and Tiwari Ji – the owner of Anushri lodge and his nephew, whom I had promised to comeback.

DEVPRAYAG

We took Uttarakhand Transport bus to Rishikesh. I have been on this route more than any other route and could tell by peeping out the window about how much time it will take to reach the place from here. The bus had ‘less than seat’ passengers so Saurabh stretched out a little while like all times. We reached Rishikesh at 3:40 am as expected. It was the regular chill of early March and no auto-rickshaw was around at this time so we had to walk upto the Tehri bus stand.

DEVPRAYAG (The Abondon Bridge over Ganga)

It was really good walking fast with our bagpacks to heat up our bones and just when we had half a mile to cover, we saw the bus cross by. The driver slowed it down; conductor peeked out and then shouted on top of his voice ‘Joshimath’ looking at us coming out of the narrow lane opposite to the road. And I replied – ‘No’, Ukhimath.

RUDRAPRAYAG (Mandakini on (reader's) Right and Alaknanda on Left)

Next we were in this bus which had only last bench seat left to accommodate us; rest the bus was full with non-hindi speaking labours or seemed so from their language. The last bench seat on which we accommodated ourselves to my side along the window had window that would not shut to the full. The window kept sliding every now and then and sometimes I had to cover my ears for constant air bowing through the window inside. Saurabh also had more or less the same trouble. Well, soon we lay down to rest on the same bench dividing the sides to opposite windows though uncomfortably and tackling the window sliding problem at our both ends while our labour fellow snored at a pitch.

RUDRAPRAYAG GHAT

The sun was out as the visibility gets clearer. The time was 8:15 around and Saurabh was up too. As the locals started to commute, the driver puts up the break every now and then. Now the bus had few people standing. I offered my seat to an old lady and this gave me the opportunity to stretch myself. Saurabh sometimes look outside then closes his eyes and then opens up again, and it continued till we crossed Srinagar. He was still a bit sleepy and slightly unwell. This was his first time; hiking in the bus without break for last 12 hours and yet he showed no signs of disappointment or tiredness on his face. We reached Rudraprayag around 9:40 am and got down off the bus. The bus that was going to Joshimath shall take different route from here which would move along Alaknanda, while our route would move along Mandakini. Quickly we filled up, and set walking towards the bridge down. The idea was to spare some moments at the confluence. So we started walking down and reached the bridge, Saurabh clicked few snaps. And there came the Jeep from somewhere and the driver yelled at us ‘Okhimath’! And, we jumped inside taking the front seats.

I was wondering about my familiarity with the place, looking out and trying to recall the places that we had to pass to reach Ukhimath. We passed Tilwara, then, Chilayasaur. Both these villages are along Mandakini and quite much humid areas. The roads were bad as BRO works out to reshape and expand the rocky cuts with their big drills. This was the first time I witnessed the blasts too and saw the excitement of people running around and discussing the scene. The roads were better after we crossed Chiliyasaur and reached Ghat where the road divides into two – one goes to Kedarnath and the other one to Ukhimath which was some 20 kms from here and the jeep soon will begin to climb.

GHAT (from here the road divides)

We reached Ukhimath and like I had in my mind, we got down at GMVN which is some little more than a km before the bus stand. It was nice to see Chamola Ji and Negi Ji after more than a year and half long time. We exchanged greetings and the time was 12:15 pm when we passed across Anushri Lodge but Tiwari Ji was not seen around nor his nephew.
We filled up and around 1:30 resumed our journey on foot while looking out for jeep service that could drop us to Chopta though I was uncertain about the accommodation. The temple was months far to be opened in June while it was just mid March.
Saurabh could be seen sipping tea

Saurabh was in perfect mood. Taking pics and notes about the places. He seemed to be enjoying the oneness with nature and that anonymous ‘lost for words’ feeling. We walked with few school children – talking, laughing and singing. Contrary, I had tough time telling them why we were there?
After some time, some 4-5kms afterwards, we started to look aggressively for our staying option. We were tired and the fact was it was already 3:20 pm which means we need to find accommodation before the sun sinks and night crawls. I had no clue.
UKHIMATH (opposite is Guptakashi)

An old villager whom I asked for accommodation, recommended us to go to Duggalbhitta which he described the place that has a PWD and a local hotel, which belonged to a barrister at Rudraprayag. He said the jeep can be expected anytime now. He was right.

Around 4, the jeep came. It had few villagers and 3 associates of this private hotel named Mayadeep. Infact the jeep was popularly called as Mayadeep and at 5:30 we reached Duggalbitta at a crawling speed collecting the firewoods wherever they saw chopped wood and logs. I wondered who might have chopped them and left in so dense a jungle for these fellows to collect the woods. Anyway, it was getting dark, but we thought to first sip upon a tea with some maggi. Saurabh was suddenly unwell and begin to vomit. He felt ok after the tea.

PWD, Duggalbhitta

It was 6 past 15. We took a pack of biscuits from our bag and begin surveying the place. It was indeed very peaceful as we trailed inside the jungle area to see what route we are to take to reach Chopta. We clicked few pics and came back to our place, at 8pm, we took the candle light dinner and soonafter went off to sleep. We did not have slept much in the bus and for the last night and day were in travel continuously.

We had Maggi & Tea Here (Duggalbhitta), Me & the Nepali Caretaker

Next morning, we got up early, and prepared to leave the place at 6:45. I was disappointed to find that the caretakers were not up yet. We asked the Nepali chap who was one of caretakers, who happened to had served us the dinner, came forward and asked us if we could wait he could prepare us some tea. We readily agreed as it was quite chilling outside.

Mayadeep guesthouse could be seen behind Saurabh and the road also where we had tea (see huts). Just opposite to tea shop is PWD resthouse

Finally we reached Chopta, after crossing through the several steep passages and moist slippery surface amidst the wilderness – just two of us. This was best of the time that we had spent on walking together, talking aloud, clicking pictures and wandering whereever possible around the place. After all it was the moment after a really long tiring journey and the worse lodging of all times.
Moving towards Chopta

Soon we met the first patch of snow. Both were excited. The more was to come. I was sure that we would encounter some snow while in Delhi just when I was planning the trip but I was wrong. It was not the some ice. It was lot more ice.
We reached Chopta at 9:30, decided to have tea and paranthas at the only open shop. It started to downpour light as we finished up the breakfast and started to trek upwards for Tungnath. We just had walked some 800 mtrs and the snow started to appear on the serpent like hill path. As we keep walking, the snow got thicker and soon the snowfall started. It was a good day indeed!

First Snow View

It started to snow aggressively while Saurabh was enjoying the scene, pretty much lost in photography, I had the doubt in my mind – to go up or come down.

And, I asked Saurabh to walk a bit fast to reach ASAP. We really had to rush but too much of snow on the track and the blowing wind and snow fall was suddenly seemed hard to combat that is too when we two were the only souls climbing.

We reached the Ganesha temple amidst the knee deep snow and the snowfall reduced. We looked down at the open valley which was covered all white with the snow.

CHOPTA (Only shop at Chopta that offered breakfast ...and lodging in tents too)

The wind stopped too and we offered our prayer and started to click the views around. We were swept away by the enchanted sounds of Monals and flock of birds in the sky. We thought to rest a while beside the Ganesha, and the time was 11:20. After some 15 minutes of rest, we resumed our journey towards the temple of Tungnath, which stood now at some 600 mtrs.

Some scenes... slope we walked upwards using our hands, snowfall started and Me walking fast and telling Saurabh to walk fast too...

Ganesha Temple

As we prepared to walk, the weather started to get heavy again and the snowfall started again. This time it was heavier than the previous fall and we did not knew what route to approach.
First view of temple amidst heavy snowfall

By the time we were 100 mtrs to the temple, the visibility got too bad. We had all snow all over clothes and in the shoes. However, Saurabh seemed not be worrying at all but I was certainly thinking – one wrong move and we could end up losing the lives in the deep down gorge to our left. But, we had faith attached to us. The faith that appeared automatically and did not needed to be recalled in our minds in conditions like this. And, we were now more than reluctant to comeback without paying homage to the deity.

The determination grew hard with the ever growing white snow flakes from the sky and we folded our hands at the very first sight of the temple gates and the voice came within ‘Jai Bhagwan Tungnath’ that could be heard mixing up with the echoing sound of the hard blowing wind. We were almost there!

Second View (Almost there!!!)

We had to choose the route amidst the deep snow covered area to climb up using our bare hands. It was icy, pretty much but we moved up with all the adrenaline. We reached at the covered ‘kund’ that had water flowing through the lion’s mouth and some architecture built of stones. Snowstorm once more dazzled and rattled and suddenly slowed down to shut up. This was the divine sign, and Saurabh’s hand reached for the big bell at the temple gate which was painted blue (on pillar) and yellow and with red written ‘Shri Tungnath Mandir’ right in the middle.
This was the moment we were longing for and without saying a word to each other, there we were at the locked and sealed gate of the main entrance with our folded hands offering brief prayer.

Final View (from Front)

The gate was painted in stripes of 3 colours and was all made up of what it seemed big logs of stone carved out to make this beautiful ancient temple that holds great spiritual experience and the impressive historical relevance. The hood of the temple which appeared to be like an open wooden square window and painted of yellow, red and green chiefly, with white stripes on the top had a white flag on a golden pole over it. It was hard to interpret both – the coloured painting and the existence of the temple that survived more than 500 thousand years of Mahabharata age.

Besides the temple, on its left, there were small temples that symbolically represented Parvati (immediate next) and Bhairav with other unidentified deities in a row along the temple.

Soon we came to our senses and started to feel the chill of the snow. We had 2 paranthas rolled with some achar in an empty tea packet and some water left in the bottle which we consumed looking at the temple from a shed on the left to the temple from its opposite.

As we put on our bags and looked down from the main entrance gate – a different challenge was awaiting. It was – how to get down! Saurabh suggested following our footsteps and he was right. We came down the steepest of the bend slowly.

The Two Friends We Met (Barthwal Ji and Ramola Ji) Later we become friends at Deoria Tal Trek (the very next day)

There we met two fellows whom we first met at Dugalbhitta who were busy doing rounds of smokes and drinks at the same place where we had maggi and tea a day before. They also stayed at Mayadeep - the very place where we also stayed the last night. The only difference between them and us was – they smoked, drank and had bike to carry them over places while we were on foot. We chatted up for a while and then we left since we had to reach Ukhimath back again without the clue whether we would get the drop from Chopta or not.

Meanwhile Saurabh came up with the idea to get down fast. I was interested in HOW? And, he suggested that would skate on snow. I asked again how? I was close to understand him when he said we would slip down sitting and, to both of us the idea seemed fine if not ideal.

Downside view from the temple (the snowfall covered the whole trek quickly)

I went down first and surprisingly got struck in the middle and then had to row with my hands. That was silly. I had snow all over inside. Then he came before I could tell him… No! But even if I would have said no, he might not have listened. He thought it to be the fun, and he would not have listened to even God at the moment or later have blamed me for depriving him of his right to scroll and crawl into the snow. He came crashing down too and in the middle got struck just like me. It was life’s one of the white experience and the idea we rejected without questions.

Coming Down

We came down to Chopta and the clock struck 1:20 pm. The weather was rainy again. We had tea at the same place and soonafter started running down fast to Dugalbhitta as there was no chance for us to get a drop from here. We finally reached the place in at 3 pm with bright and beautiful lit sky with sun shine through the clouds and shadows of them all over the valley. We were quite much warm by now. We had finished almost more than a 20km trek since morning. We had our last maggi and fourth tea of the day and soon after we left for Makku Band some 2 kms more from the place we had our meal.

SLIDING DOWN

The downpour sometimes starts and then stops, and then resumes but we never bothered about it and kept marching, and discussing our degrees of experience, excitement and enjoyment.

I offered my gratitude to the deity for bringing me to Him again and to the experience that I never had consumed before.

First time, it was the sheer chance and this time planned by luck and hence, for sure I have now started believing these chance-luck theories.

The Anonymous Feeling/ Narkanda, Himachal Pradesh

2008-07-02T02:40:00.000-07:00

Manu called up in the afternoon just when I was about to enter the examination hall at the college where I was working for invigilation duty. He said, ok! Let’s leave today. Its been quite some days and I was longing for a trip which I shared with him, one of those days.

December was to enter its 3rd week and we leave tonight. Initially Manu was reluctant. He had just been back from some ‘trip’ and ‘state’. Left his job already and now when he had some hope to get an assignment, I asked him for this trip. Anyway, he seemed interested too. We reached ISBT and headed for the place from where the bus for Shimla leaves. It was a great rush at the ISBT. I had never been to Shimla before and I was not excited too. The picture i had of Shimla was of crowded hill station that has nothing to offer to somone like me.

NARKANDA (In December)

Rather I needed a quiet place to soothe my noisy ears filled with official talks in a much fabricated environment. I needed a break perhaps that is the reason for this travel. In the meanwhile we got the bus and the second seat on driver’s left. We talked for sometime, then Manu’s hands reached for his earphones and my eyes were filled with sleep soon after. At Pipli bus stopped for a while. We passed Chandigarh after crossing Ambala. And I was again off to sleep. I realized that bus was not moving. At Kalka, driver got down to warm up his old bones for a while at the sight of bonfire. It was around 4 in morning. When the public started shouting; the conductor pushed up the matter and the bus was started after small arguments. It was colder than those nights that I had spent on various trips abroad the bus. And, I was back to sleep once again. What amused me was I do not really used to ‘sleeping’ during the trips be it night or day! We reached Shimla at 6:00 around amidst the fog and wonderfull chill. Soon I got excited… excited than ever!We sipped upon tea at bus station.

Chota SHIMLA (alias Vikas Nagar)

Manu gave a choice – Should be walk down till Longwood or await the bus? Soon we were walking toward our destination. Manu had been many times to Shimla and Himachal overall! I was glad that he was with me to show the things around. I could not have imagined a better guide than despite his being a great friend though very moody by nature. There we were at the Sainik Bhawan, Longwood right at 7 am which we really covered at dead slow speed. God! It was too early to approach and that’s too without booking the rest-house. So we planned to take a walk but where possibly with our bags. And, we met Subedar Sharma Ji inside. He was gentle and polite. He enquired about us, asking our antecedents and Delhi whereabouts, and then agreed to give us room but after 10-11 am. His concern was do we have any identity that could associate us with Indian defence system. He made us tea and then we left for sight seeing around though we didn’t go too far.
There was something about the air, it smelled fresh and tasted good. I had my eyes got fixed on the view – the mighty mountains of Himalayan ranges. We chatted for sometime and returned back to Sainik resthouse. It was still not the time, SharmaJi had asked us to come at but he gave the room. The time was 8:40. Soon after we were out of our room for breakfast that he served with a cook assisting –parantha with tea.
SAINIK BHAWAN, Shimla
We filled up and retired to bed for a quick nap for the sleep. The room was really a delight – all made of wood with free ventilation and big glass windows stretched in length though there could hardly be seen any views from there. After one and half hour, we got up and came out in the sun.

We started off towards Mall Road. It was little more than 12 and the massive tourist flow could be seen roaming on the street for no purpose exactly like We had no purpose other than walking. But I was wrong. The mall offered most cheerful view though cluttering was a little annoying but that was all right with us.

Police Canteen (that was not!!!)

We were getting the feel. Manu offered to have lunch at Police canteen though later we came to know that canteen was private and never belonged to any police or army for that matter. It was a small setup that offered an eating joint. We ordered the food and started nibbling. It was worth a try for me. The lunch was followed by the tea. And, we prepared to leave to make a comeback to our resthouse after a brief walk through the heart of Shimla. It was 6 in evening, when we woke up after a brief rest. In our shoes again, there we started walking to the Mall again for an evening to make memoirs.

Later some times after, Manu got upset with me for the reason untold to me and I thought he wants to be alone for sometime since I knew he was more than moody. We came back without speaking to each other almost from half the way from Mall to the rest-house.

Then, later we both ate our dinner together cooked and served by Sharma Ji himself. It was a full moon night and we prefer to take a brief walk. Next day we got up early and by 8:00 around we boarded the bus for Narkanda which was some 60kms that covered some wonderful village scenery enroute like Fagu and Matiyana.

Opposite View from Mall Road, Simla

We ate at Narkanda at the Himalayan Dhaba costing bill to be nearing Rs. 200 but satisfaction was worth dollars. We marched ahead towards the Hatu temple trek soonafter. It was snow all over the place and all along the road. I liked it in my own way and my eyes and brain got – all white.

We started moving up in the snow, smiling, thinking and what we very often do – repeatedly appraising the scene. The other side of the hill had Sun shining bright and we missed the water bottle so settled for some ice instead which never the substitute. We enjoyed every bit of it atleast this is what seemed.

Church at The Mall, Shimla
Sometimes life is suddenly bright with thousand suns keeping you up and warm. And, I put down my bag and jacket along the road side to rest a while in the magnificent sun. The same sun that in Delhi I have often criticized for shining too hard and too near to skin.

Hatu temple was some 5-6kms uphill trek in Narkanda only. We almost had finished 4 kms of the trek and the time was nearing 5 p.m.

We decided not to go up further and plan our comeback afterall the accommodation had to be arranged though we had the talk with the PWD guesthouse caretaker in the afternoon itself for the night and had our one bag there only. So we moved down. The weather started getting bad or atleast looked so and it started raining a bit. It was more than chilling, the wind piercing down the bones hard as we ordered for a chowmein and momos plate at a small eating joint which had the fantastic view with the bonfire.

NARKANDA Bus Stand (and the Bus that dropped us here)
And, I remembered the Pink Floyd song “its good to warm my bone beside the fire”!

Me, resting along the roadside in the SUN

Manu "The Moody"

Forgiveness, forgiveness even if you don't love me... Anymore

(I kept singing this Don Henley Song which Manu had loaded on his phone)

The interesting SLOPE that we covered to trek to HATU (we never reached temple though)

Manu said, “Should we stay here or move to some place down for some warm comfort” which I surely nodded to at once and we prepared to move to Kumarsain for our night halt which was down the slope some 22kms on Rampur road. The time was 6:30 p.m.
Evening At NARKANDA

We have been walking since morning, pretty tired, and longing for bed. It was a quite a day but chill and thrill never existed together for long and we took the bus to our new destination which had no scope for chill atleast and we would not be surprised also if no thrills were to be found now. No seat in the bus, but standing as an option existed with us. Good news was, we reached Kumarsain, at 8 p.m and bad news that still 1 km awaits us to be walked to get to the place of the night halt. We approached the PWD as usual but nobody responded. Next we approached Forest rest-house but room was not available. We again went to PWD, but still nobody’s there.

Almost all shops were closed and all lights were off except the small local electricity supply office in a single room with four guys smoking, discussing political stances of elections that was about sweeping off the Congress or BJP or their allies whatever from the state. We saw the light and we were there in another minute asking for PWD chap. Well, they made us seated in that small room that had the heater by the side, and continued their political discussion with passion. After some 15 minutes, we looked at each other in surprise that these guys have no attention towards us so we interrupted in between and asked again for the PWD assistance for the night. Out of the four, one was the caretaker.

NARKANDA (View towards Shimla and also seen is Himalayan Dhaba to your right hand behind the car)

We got the room, the dinner was also arranged and we took out our all-wet shoes and socks that we have been wearing for past 4-5 hours. I took out the quarter of rum (alcohol) that I had purchased to combat the chill and tiredness of the day earlier at Narkanda before taking the bus. We both were though non-drinkers but the idea of rum was worthwhile and we had one-one and off to eat. We retired soon after to our bed after I had put the heater on to dry up our socks and clothes and discussing next day’s plan.

The PWD guesthouse was fabulous and seemed to be made recently.

KUMARSAIN

We set on the track again after paying Rs. 350 bucks for the night to the caretaker who never gave the receipt against it and we were neither concerned about that.

PWD Rest House at Kumarsain

Around 9 am we reached the place where we were dropped by the bus last night, and after half an hour got another bus to comeback at Narkanda again. The idea was to go to Sarahan, on Hindustan-Tibet road.
We reached Narkanda again and found the road to Sarahan was jammed with snow all over for making any sort of transportation possible to the place. We decided to spend rest of the day walking on the same road. It was again all snow, all over and I could feel my shoes and socks getting wet already. We went up a bit and decided to warm ourselves in the streaming sun. Next we unloaded bagpacks and sit silent sipping upon the remaining rum mixed up in the water bottle. God! It was smelling hard and tasted bad and yet no impact on our senses so we figured out it was a fake…

Seen here two roads, road with bus goes to Kumarsain, then Rampur (some 47 kms)and the Upper one goes to Sarahan.
At 3 pm, we started off back to Fagu. And, another troubled time started. No room at Matiyana PWD, another bad luck at Fagu PWD – all rooms were occupied, and then at 8 pm we settled for a room which was not a delight to be in but then we were more than tired and me even mild sick too. Next day we came back to Shimla again, same place, the same rest-house and the very much same room but while coming back I had all the memories of Narkanda with me. It was certainly the place to be at when you have a reason to be in a state of equilibrium.

Now as I sit silent to memorize the words, to describe my last set of feeling while leaving Narkanda, I tried hard but could not find any of the words in store, and even if I make claims to have found few, they might not make you understand my feelings for the place... because you are not ME!

Tungnath By Chance/ Ukhimath, Garhwal

2008-06-25T22:18:00.000-07:00

If I could escape my dull and hectic life of Delhi for forever, Ukhimath could be the place where I would want to be settled down for my new abode.

I visited Ukhimath first time in July (2006) end, and before I could do more fact-finding we had our bagpacks ready. Me and Gagan. It was a chance talk that I had with Gagan a day before wherein I mentioned to him the place and talked about a vacation together. Gagan, not sure at the time, gave his unsure ‘Yes’ with a ‘But’! I knew Gagan since my graduation days. He has always been around since then. Half textile engineer and more than full - a fabric expert - had just resigned and this was the opportunity I was trying to get upon. A puzzled Gagan called up in the afternoon to inform me the unexpected. And we were ready. Like all the times, he came late at ISBT, Delhi, than planned at 9:35 p.m. I was awaiting him for last 2 hours. Finally, he came and I gave him what I was holding back inside me.

We immediately took the bus to Rishikesh. I had ensured the eatables for us and after we chatted for some 2-3 hours about things in our lives, we stretched flat at the back seats of half empty bus. We reached Rishikesh at 4:40 am after covering some 240km of distance. It was pouring slowly. I asked one of the auto drivers for a drop at Tehri bus stand which was 2kms, but since he demanded a Rs. 10 flat for each, I refused to be cheated away and we started walking fast to reach the venue. Gagan cursed me for that!

Confluence of Alaknanda & Mandakini At Rudraprayag

At Tehri bus stand of Rishikesh, we took tea and an hour break. It was at 6:30 our bus will leave for Rudraprayag which was some 120 kms from here. We took the side seat for two, Gagan at the window side. Bus started and we smiled to each other for the trip to Hills has started.

At near around 9:20 we reached Devprayag which was enroute. I had tea again while Gagan preferred taking a look around. We discussed further about his first experience with hills. We moved again and by 11:50 reached Rudraprayag. Gagan was tired and so was me. So we made a halt in a dingy cheap room for (Rs. 200 which was Rs. 50 more a price to pay) but with all windows open it was a well lit and nice ventilated room. We changed and went out to eat.

Devprayag, Confluence of Alaknanda & Bhagirathi that forms Ganga

We spent our time by Alaknanda’s side in warm sum and glacier water in which we put our feet and then yell ‘Chill hai yaar’! We were more than happy. No family, no work, nothing to feel and nothing to share, just the plain sound of flowing Alaknanda and our offbeat communication to content ourselves.

Next I realized when we got back to our room, that I forgot the memory card for my digital camera, at home only. So we spent the evening searching for the card at every nook and corner helplessly but no success. We retired at our bed soon at 8:00 pm. Next day we got ready at 8 and planned to go back to Srinagar which was enroute some 30 kms back from the place we were at. Going back was the chance we were about to take because we were not certain whether we will get the Card there or not? Anyway, we reached Srinagar – bigger and better city life than Rudraprayag. While I waited for the shop to open, Gagan opted for a close shave. Luck was with us, though we got the card for a higher a price at Rs. 1300. We stuffed our stomach and prepared to resume our journey. We reached Rudraprayag again, got down and started locating for bus that goes to Ukhimath.

Rudraprayag, Mandakini Side (on right) while Alaknanda comes from Left

We reached Ukhimath at 2:00 pm after travelling for some 60-70 kms. The route was rough and bad patches on road appeared all over. The route was all along the river Mandakini through Tilwara and Chiliyasaur and finally the Ghat from where one road goes to Guptakashi and other goes to Ukhimath.

Initially the program was to go to Madhyamaheshwar so we were told that the same bus that leaves at 4p.m from Ukhimath market shall drop us at Uniyana some 18-20 kms further. We had the time at hand. Some 2 hours. We had ‘Dal Chawal’ which Gagan never liked, and for me it was as usual ok. After it was around 4:00 pm we enquired about the bus and got the unexpected reply. The bus actually developed some snag as we were told and would not go today further.

Ukhimath Bus Stand (and the market)

So we returned down the market to GMVN our first choice to stay. Chamola Ji, the care taker and Rawat Ji, the cook, we met there who offered the room but tariff was quite high at Rs. 600 for room. So we planned to move after a cup of tea to search for another night halt place. We got accommodation at Anushree lodge (owned by Tiwari Ji) for Rs. 200 which was quite a clean new room with new bedding. Later, that evening we went for the outing, met some children from some village nearby, clicked pics and had good time. Gagan looked over- joyous. We returned back at 7:20 to have our dinner at GMVN and from there retuned back to our room which was some 1 km far. Soft downpour was continuously signaling of bad weather to start anytime now.

The room had no light despite the connection. Some fault was being located. As we lay down I discussed with Gagan about option of visiting Madhyamaheshwar and we were ready to get up at 5:00 and leave. It was 9:10 when somebody knocked the door. It was Tiwari’s nephew asking us to join for dinner. We politely rejected. He went back smiling only to come back with Tiwari himself. Tiwari Ji, in some early 40s, looked quite strong and commanding. And politely he said; join us over for some hot milk, which I and Gagan were happy to hear about. While sipping upon the thick milk, he suggested us to visit Tungnath.

Guptakashi, as seen from Ukhimath (in the evening)

I remember of having seen the picture of Tungnath at the Survey of India map on Garhwal Hills. I was carrying the map too. Tiwari Ji was of the opinion that for Madhyamaheshwar you might not manage to get any vehicle and said moreover it would be risky trekking due to continuous downpour. Though, I completely agreed with him, I still wanted to go to Madhyamaheshwar. At the same time, I was interested in Tungnath too. Choices were always the problems for me. When we entered back our room, Gagan talked to his family and came to know about his interview schedule right after the 2 days. He wanted to do an MBA and I remember clearly having told by him about this dream as a major life goal. We observed silence. He suddenly said ‘I’ll be going back for this interview’ though he didn’t wanted to miss the trip and things to happen this way. It was a bad night after a full bright day. And the thunderstorm started.

It rained all night. I woke up at 5:10 out of the shiver I guess. I decided to put on my windcheater. It was still dark outside. I thought to open up the door for some fresh air and to observe the things around. I came out and saw the clouds all over and over them the snow-clad mountains. I shouted ‘Gagan’!

Early Morning View of Kedar Parvat whose foothill has the temple of Kedarnath from Ukhimath

Tiwari was up too and made me some tea. We sipped upon looking at massive clear mountains. Tiwari and the rain in the background broke the silence. He said ‘Go see Tungnath and you’ll not be disappointed’. Gagan was out too. He was all lost in the scene more than both of us. We got ready and by 6:15 were ready to approach Tungnath. Gagan planned to complete the trip and sacrificed his interest for a while. We came to the conclusion of why not try calling the college and let them know that you are out so if possibly the interview could be re-fixed after 3-4 days. Gagan made the call and succeeded. We were more than celebrating.

Tiwari asked the milkman to drop us at Chopta, some 20kms from this place. We 3 in the jeep discussing about the weather, temple and problems we could face if we do not plan return soon. At Chopta, we were almost alone. Among the mild rain, we prepared to trek. The time was 8:30. We started finding our way on the slippery surface amidst the vast jungle. The trek was some 3.5kms straight uphill to the temple of Lord Shiva called Tungnath, which believed to have received the arms of Shiva when He disintegrated himself. According to Mythology, Pandavas prayed to Shiva for forgiveness for having killed their kins and kiths which Shiva considered a sin not worth forgiving. In an effort to find Shiva, The Pandavas searched entire Himalaya and then at Guptkashi located Him. Shiva disintergated himself into pieces and told Pandavas to worship his these piece forms. These five pieces of Shiva forms 'Panch-Kedar' or 'KedarKhand'. Tungnath was the place that received Shiva's arms. And, we now have started the trek ...

Chopta

The place was full of vast grasslands, meadows and a serpent trail over which we were climbing up. We reached temple at 11:00, performed the ritual and started to click the pictures from various places surveying things. The weather by now was getting really bad and clouds all over the temple and we planned comeback. The temple made of huge stones was said to be some 5,000 years old, built by Pandavas and restructured by Shankracharya. The temple had all the 5 deities resting. These 5 were the forms of Shiva representing panch-kedar, in between was – Tungnath form.

Trek to Tungnath Temple

I remember while coming back Gagan and I had tea and took biscuits at a hut shop with an old lady and a kid. Gagan threw packs of biscuits at the crows who gathered all around him. It was the good gesture. He looked at ease enjoying nature to the fullest and with a breath deep into his lungs... he said, This is Real.

Temple of Tungnath

And, I prayed to Bhagwan Tungnath, make us come for once more… soon!

for more pics visit

www.flickr.com/myth_drinker

Also check Tungnath By Luck/ Ukhimath Re-visited

P.S I have been receiving mails about what happened to Gagan's interview next. Here is the answer... Gagan right after the trip appeared for the interview, got through it and now pursuing his MBA and currently undergoing Summer Training with a textile firm in Indonesia.