Misshapen Identity

Fed Up With This Blogging Platform (December 2, 2023)

noreply@blogger.com (Con-Con San) — Sat, 02 Dec 2023 02:01:00 +0000

Abandoning Blogger permanently. It keeps on deleting my posted photos for no apparent reason, and with no provided fix. This very frustrating state of affairs makes posting here a complete waste of time and effort. To think that just a few weeks ago, I updated the entries and spent days writing and collating photos. It was a good run. Time to realign precious time somewhere else online and in social media. K Bye.

Planting The Seed

noreply@blogger.com (Con-Con San) — Sat, 02 Dec 2023 01:40:00 +0000

The Seed: A Living Beer Project caught my attention a couple of years back via Instagram and social media posts, and when the opportunity arose to get a few brews from this "passion project" of New Jersey couple Sean Towers and Amanda Cardinali, I didn't hesitate.

Growth and Change Summer ("oak fermented and matured saison with mixed culture and cherries", 6.2% abv, ) is part of a four-bottle set from June 2023 featuring beers for each season. Ghosts Are All We Are ("mixed culture saison fermented and matured in oak and conditioned on pioppino mushrooms in collaboration with Odd Colony Brewing Company", 6.6% abv), meanwhile, is The Seed's anniversary saison released last October 2023.

Summer smelled surprisingly grassy (was expecting more fruitiness from the featured cherries), with aromatic hints of ginger. Crisp and refreshing the outset. A crisp, refreshing bitter-woodsy opening, however, gives way to a rather disorienting herbal-medicinal profile. The artificial cherry cough syrup aftertaste wasn't what I was expecting. Lofty hopes dashed.

Ghosts was way better. Alive and brimming with carbonation from the glass. Fragrant with dried stone fruit. Tastewise, tangy ripe tamarind and earthiness land on the tongue and dig in immediately. The initial pop of flavor extends to a satisfying backend clinginess. Not overcarbed, despite the beer's visual of microbubbles rising to the top of the liquid.

Unsure if Summer was intended as a half-winking, not-to-be-taken-too-seriously hot weather quencher with weird flavors. I didn't get the attempt at irreverence if indeed there was one. In contrast, Ghosts was an exquisite creation, complex and earnest in its deliciousness.

The Seed collaborated with Fidens, North Park and Troon for The Sun Grows Cold Triple IPA (9.7% abv), which was opened with Parish Brewing's Holy Ghost (11% abv) for side-by-side reference.

The Sun was memorably smooth, having loads of pineapple and sweet Valencia oranges, with a nice, lingering ripe guava perkiness. No alcohol burn, no harshness, no gumminess. Extremely drinkable. A polished conundrum of a Triple IPA deftly combining smoothness and high alcohol.

Holy Ghost was more in-your-face in every aspect. Strong peach and mango aromas yet burdened likewise by a starch-gawgaw smell. Bold citrus and stonefruit mingle with a clingy, sappy hop bitterness.

Drinking The Sun Grows Cold was like experiencing Michael Jackson's Billie Jean slickness alternately with Holy ghost's power vocal-laden, riff-heavy, drum-pounding Eighties metal equivalent. There, I betrayed my liver-vulnerable age group yet again.

Crosta Pizzeria is Legit, If A Bit Pricey

noreply@blogger.com (Con-Con San) — Tue, 31 Oct 2023 01:14:00 +0000

It's useless to overthink and overanalyze pizza. Usually, I just overeat pizza.

Crosta was named best pizzeria in the Philippines, and 54th in the world this year, supposedly.

The Roni Salciccia (the innate editor in me needs to correct the misspelling, properly , “salsiccia”)and the What the Pork pies that we ordered were legit. Beautiful visually, on point tastewise. While the dough wasn't fully airy, it had nice bite and consistency.

I usually avoid pizza deliveries because of the often unpredictable arrival time from the shop to wherever I am. I thus, as a general rule, like eating in, or buying from a nearby place, to assure freshness. Crosta's pizzas deserve to eaten straight from the oven.

(Very Late Post) Lunch at Alain Ducasse in London

noreply@blogger.com (Con-Con San) — Wed, 25 Oct 2023 05:05:00 +0000

This entry concludes my attempt to mostly (far from "totally" and "completely") keep up with my non-beer backlogs, which begun with the Taïrroir post. Unfortunately, I can't find my tasting notes for the October 2019 lunch at Alain Ducasse in London.

I had procrastinated too much in writing the entry that I might have accidentally deleted my notes in the Google Keep app. Oh well.

Here's what I wrote in social media, verbatim, almost three years ago(!) soon after after the dining experience:

YOLO. Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester retained its 3 Michelin stars for the 2020 culinary year and is one of three London restaurants to be given the tire company's highest distinction.

The lunch menu consisted of soft boiled egg and leeks with a Meaux mustard condiment for starters, a main of braised oxtail, parsnip and parsley, plus a cookpot of apple, pear and Borniambuc cream as dessert. One amuse bouche, an assortment of bread, macaroons, various ganache, other sweets then tea bookended the meal.

The gougères, a Ducasse specialty, were superb when slathered with generous amounts of Fontainebleau cheese.

Truffle season has just started, and the restaurant showed off a half fist-sized piece of White Alba, treating it like fine jewelry. As the ultimate indulgence, I had to have shavings on my main.

The Red Guide describes a 3 star establishment as "worth a special journey." There were the slightest of hiccups with the service (you simply expect perfection in cadence and attentiveness at this level). I hope to write a full blog review about the meal (hopefully not too far from now) because a few paragraphs simply can't do the entire dining experience justice.

(Very Late Post) Taco Indulgence in Northern California

noreply@blogger.com (Con-Con San) — Wed, 25 Oct 2023 01:44:00 +0000

(From a visit in April 2021)

Always in search of good tacos.

The ones served at Tequila's Taqueria look messy because they already place the salsa roja on the taco. We ordered the chorizo (pork sausage), tripitas (beef intestine) and camaron (shrimp).

Tacos El Patrón, meanwhile, takes a different approach. It specializes in Tijuana-style quesabirria -- cheesy, drippy, stew-laden tacos. You dip your tacos in the stew. In our cabeza (beef head), carnitas (braised pork) and lengua (beef tongue) lineup, the lengua was my favorite. I'm guessing El Patrón's "consome" is a mixture of chillies, tomatoes, achiote, onion and proprietary herbs and spices. For my Pinoy palate, it tasted like a dliuted Filipino menudo sauce. I savored every drop even after I finished my tacos. And you know it's authentic when the menu has unintentional typo errors ("choise of meat").

(Very Late Post) Tapsilog ni Intsik

noreply@blogger.com (Con-Con San) — Wed, 25 Oct 2023 01:26:00 +0000

(From a social media post in November 2021)

Been mixing biking and work of late. After a brief early morning meeting at Taft-Quirino, decided to proceed to Tomas Mapua street in Manila's D. Jose area for brunch at Tapsilog ni Intsik. Ordered their signature "Torture" silog (fried rice and a flat omelette of tocino and tapa, it seems) and "Halo" (beef meat and offal in a dark soup, with flavors of star anise and other spices). Washed down with Mountain Dew.

The Halo has the qualities of an heirloom dish. There's no signage. The place seems to have existed for decades. It has supposedly served generations of students from the defunct Mapua High School (the building has since been replaced by a condominium, unsurprisingly).

An added benefit of the bike trips is getting a feel of the size of Metro Manila. Congestion and transport inefficiences give the commuter the impression that the metropolis is bigger than it actually is.

(Very Late Post) Californian-Mexican Cuisine at the Mission District in San Franciso (Part 2)

noreply@blogger.com (Con-Con San) — Wed, 25 Oct 2023 00:56:00 +0000

(From a visit in December 2021)

A tale of two mole sauces at the Mission District, the most Mexican part of San Francisco. Puerco en Mole Verde is a signature dish at El Buen Comer, listed in Eater SF as one of the 38 Essential Restaurants in the city. Hole-in-the-wall La Oaxaqueña's (Wa-ha-ken-ya) chicken tamale with chocolate-y "Oaxacan-style" mole was an eye-opener. Also had their cabeza taco.

El Buen Comer. Puréed green chile and an assortment of herbs contribute to the green color. Mild spiciness, surprisingly. Well-cooked pork. Beans are my nemesis -- they always give me gas. (right-click or long press on photos to enlarge)

Had to make a taco, of course. The soft taco shell held everything well and didn't tear up. You know this is the real deal.

***

An early evening visit to La Oaxaqueña. The cabeza taco's meat was, to use a cliché, melt-in-your-mouth, propped up by a mildly hot salsa that allowed the meat to shine, charred cebolla and bell pepper, with not-too-pungent cilantro. Lasa mo bawa't sangkap, walang pa-epal.

La Oaxaqueña's tamale, wrapped in a banana leaf, was served piping hot after the taco. The stone ground corn masa almost had the consistency of mashed potatoes. The mole showed hints of sweetness, complementing the tender, slightly savory chicken.

Soft tamale center, but with burnt, crispy edges that gave a textural counterpoint to the dish. This tamale was truly a revelation. Ang galing nito. The Mexican Coke is a must, of course.

(Very Late Post) Californian-Mexican Cuisine at the Mission District in San Franciso (Part 1)

noreply@blogger.com (Con-Con San) — Wed, 25 Oct 2023 00:34:00 +0000

(From a visit in December 2021)

Continuing to scratch the surface of Mexican cuisine at the Mission in San Francisco with visits to La Taqueria and Poc-Chuc, both listed, like yesterday's El Buen Comer, among SF's 38 Essential Restaurants.

La Taqueria's burrito has no rice. Instead, there's a prodigious amount of meat (carne asada for this particular visit, having tasted the carnitas, cabeza and chorizo in taco form previously), pinto beans and pico de gallo. Ordered mine dorado-style - the flour tortila is rolled onto the plancha for a distinct sear.

The mild green salsa completes the burrito-eating experience.

There would often be a line at one of the city's most famous taquerias.

***

Dinner at Poc Chuc the same day. I chose the Chimole de Pavo ("turkey cooked in a traditional Mayan black mole sauce) and Poc Chuc ("grilled citrus marinated pork," one of the Yucatan region's best-known dishes) as tacos, though they can be ordered separately as full-on entrées with rice.

The sauce-y poc chuc as penetrating depth from the marinade and a bit of smokiness from the grilling. The mole brings out mostly an onion earthiness. Turkey chews more fibrous to me than chicken and has a bit of gaminess. Why turkey? The bird is endemic to the Americas and was available to its ancient cultures way before the arrival of chicken through trade and colonization.

The strongest cilantro in the salsas I've tasted. I couldn't handle the atomic-level spiciness of Poc-Chuc's salsa verde.

(Very Late Post) Range Life in Livermore, California

noreply@blogger.com (Con-Con San) — Wed, 25 Oct 2023 00:12:00 +0000

(From a visit in December 2021)

Range Life received a Michelin Bib Gourmand designation in 2021. The red book describes the rating thus: "Not quite a star, but most definitely not a consolation prize, the Bib Gourmand is a just-as-esteemed rating that recognizes friendly establishments that serve good food at moderate prices." (right-click or long press on photos to enlarge)

Our group of eight boys shared appetizers of sardines, olives, fried potato flatbread and beef tartare.

The flatbread was like a savory funnel cake.

For my main, I got the filling Monday Special Buttermilk Fried Chicken set, which included two pieces of chicken (with sides of collard greens and dirty rice), malted milk ice cream and craft beer. The lightly brined meat was tender and tasty, the chicken skin properly crispy.

The flat iron steak was on the chewy side. It's the only miss among the items ordered.

We rounded out our meal with ice cream, churros and panna cotta.

The dining experience was relaxed, the venue friendly and unpretentious. A menu that's simple and seasonal clearly impressed the Michelin inspectors.

(Very Late Post) Adega in San Jose, California

noreply@blogger.com (Con-Con San) — Tue, 24 Oct 2023 22:49:00 +0000

(From a visit in December 2021, though at the time of this posting in October 2023, this restaurant has announced it is closing permanently by the end of the current year)

Adega specializes in Portugese cuisine and has one Michelin star. Our party of six gamely plowed through the 7-course menu, with additional chef's complement bites. It was a dining marathon lasting more than 3 hours, with what I'd call "elevated rustic" dishes that go far beyond the expected bacalhau and piri-piri chicken clichés.

We skipped the eye-poppingly pricey wine pairing option. YOLO? Nah. Beer for me and the sangria selection for the others. "Adega", however, is the Portugese word for wine cellar and the restaurant's vinho selection has a 2021 Wine Spectator Excellence Award. (right-click or long press on photos to enlarge)

Portugese corn and rye bread, made in-house at their own bakery. Served with non-pitted olives, churned butter and hummus.

The butter was smooth as, ahm, butter. The bread slices, though, could've been better served warm, or heated at least. Interesting take on hummus. Adega's was chunkier than the norm.

Chef's complement hors-d'oeuvres. Sardine, cod cake topped with caviar, Pata Negra Jamón ibérico. The jamón (mine was served with a sliver of fat) was pleasingly porky and nutty. The essence of the sea pops in the sardine, cod and caviar.

Pato. Sliced Seared Duck Breast. Mild vinaigrette on the microgreens. Parang ham na halos yung pato. Delicious.

The persimmon slices gave a contrasting fruity element to the savory duck.

Castanha. Chestnut soup with black truffle. The semi-thick soup was drizzled with truffle oil, our server revealed. Very aromatic and comforting. Earthy, gently sweet from the chestnuts.

The razor-thin truffle slices had turned a bit mushy atop the soup, removing the ingredient's distinct crunch and thus diminishing the full punch and power of the black truffle experience.

Coelho. Rabbit Terrine. Served with artichoke, demi-glace. The terrine had apricot and bacon. What's good: Nice texture and proper structure, the terrine doesn't fall apart. Tender rabbit meat. Delicious artichoke and whatever those crispy pieces were. Not so good: Didn't pick up any bacon flavor. Could be juicier.

Vieira. Scallop and pumpkin rice. Beautifully presented. Meitculously artful placement of pumpkin seeds on the cracker that crowned the scallop. Rissotto-like creaminess, with a homey essence of ginger and onions. Topnotch scallop. Not oversalted pero lasa mo yung asin, which works for me because I like salty.

Lirio. Steamed amber jack. With lemon foam and three purées - potato, parsnip and another one I forgot to list down. Perfectly cooked "fleshy" (as opposed to "flaky") fish.

Bochecha. Braised Wagyu beef cheek, This was a heavy, emphatic exclamation point to the savory dishes. The plate also had Chanterrelles, kale and black eyed peas. OMFG. The Wagyu. Singlambot ng pisngi (o puwet, o pisngi ng pwet) ng sanggol. Profuse apologies for what might be inappropriate comparisons.

Chef's complement palate cleanser. "Portugese soft cheese" topped with marmalade. Salty and sweet in two bites.

Pré Sobremesa. Pre-Dessert. Prune ice cream with a Madeira wine reduction, flan, cinnamon twirl. A delightful de-elevation from the heights reached by the mains.

Cogumelo. "Mushroom". Salted caramel ice cream playfully hidden between the meringue mushroom cap and the corn bread stalk. Chocolate ganache granules substituted for "dirt". If there's a small nit to be picked, there were two ice cream desserts in succession. Perhaps some fruit or imaginative candy would be better? It must be emphasized, however, that the creativity of the two desserts couldn't be faulted.

Chef's complement Portugese pastries and a Cherry Liquer with 18% alcohol(!). We were sated and too full at this point.

Adega macaroon to take home, adorned with the coveted Michelin star.

A Michelin meal, especially a multi-course one, mostly promises a culinary journey. An exhibition of ingredients and technique, a workout for the senses and a test of eating strength and endurance. It's supposed to be the once-in-a-while opposite of your everyday lutong bahay. On these counts, Adega delivered.

(Very Late Post) Dominique Ansel, NY Pizza Suprema and Gray's Papaya

noreply@blogger.com (Con-Con San) — Tue, 24 Oct 2023 09:57:00 +0000

(From a visit in December 2022)

Dominique Ansel released the cronut to an unsuspecting world way back in 2013. His creation combines flakiness and chewiness. I first had this croissant and donut hybrid at the Omotesando, Tokyo branch some years ago. That store has since been shuttered, according to the Interwebs.

The cacao-centric topping and filling, with minuscule pieces of fruit preserves, give a sweet-on-sweet sensation. Nearly borders on cloying and umay. Still a good pastry, the cronut is.

Another bestseller, the DKA (Dominique Kouign Amann; people often get the pronunciation wrong, hence the need for a convenient acronym) was unexpectedly dense. Cyrille Soenen of the long-closed Brasserie CiÇou in Greenhills made a better version, methinks, because his was lighter. CiÇou's was a real joy to munch on.

***

NY Pizza Suprema often appears in good pizza lists in Manhattan. I skipped the basic cheese and margherita and chose slices each of the Chicken Bacon Ranch and the Meat Lovers. Eager nods of approval for these two. Sarap. The base has that charred, leopard spot pattern NY pizza enthusiasts look for. And as is the norm in eating these slices, you need to fold.

***

The five staff members at the Gray's Papaya shop were all Pinoys. While having my sandwich, hindi maiwasang marining ang pinaguusapan nilang kung sino mang iniwan ng asawa. May kumare pang binabanggit.

Approached them afterwards and asked for a selfie. Sabi ko taga Kyusi ako, bumibisita lang. One of them volunteered to take other photos. Left a tip na pwede nilang paghatiang lima.

The hotdog? Ordinary. Maliit, juicy ang loob, kulang sa snap. Ayos lang yung relish (may iba pang choices ng sauerkraut, onions, chili, cheese, mayo, ketchup at mustard). Ordinaryo din ang tinapay. Bitin ang isang sandwich. Malasa ang papaya drink, lasap mo ang papaya mismo, pero suspetsa ko may additives ang natural fruit extract.

(Very Late Post) A Storied NYC Institution: Russ & Daughters

noreply@blogger.com (Con-Con San) — Tue, 24 Oct 2023 09:39:00 +0000

(From a visit in December 2022)

Russ & Daughters at NYC's Lower East Side was established in 1914 and has been called a torchbearer of Jewish food in America.

People from all over pack this deli for a taste of history, mostly choosing "The Classic", a bagel with smoked salmon and cream cheese. (right-click or long press on photos to enlarge)

I chose "plain with everything" -- plain bagel, plain cream cheese (there's a variety of bagels and fancy cream cheese flavors to choose from), with add-ons of tomato, capers and red onions. Pricey at bente dolyares. Verdict? The bagel is properly chewy, the generous cream cheese sharp and tasty in its simplicity.

The salmon, well, there's no masking the fishiness of the salmon (it's far from being my favorite fish; granted, the salmon here is subtly smoked, with just-right saltiness) and the quality is topnotch. It isn't the best sandwich in the world, though as mentioned, it's a taste of food history.

There's no dine-in area, and the store is a stone's throw away from the equally-famous Katz's Deli, so I got a bit naughty and took a photo of the smoked salmon sandwich trolliing Katz's.

(Very Late Post) Peter Luger Steak House and Ivan Ramen in New York City

noreply@blogger.com (Con-Con San) — Tue, 24 Oct 2023 09:19:00 +0000

(From a visit in December 2022)

The 135 year old steak house lost its Michelin star in 2022 and received a scathing review from the New York Times ("Peter Luger Used to Sizzle. Now It Sputters") pre-pandemic. Based on the porterhouse cut I was served, though, I side with Team Luger. I wouldn't have an idea how its purported halycon days were. All I know is I got to try a damn fine piece of cooked cow meat. Pwedeng palakpakan ang steak ng Peter Luger.

The complementary bread was room temp and wasn't heated. No matter. I didn't come for the carbs. Needed to save precious stomach space for the meat.

My porterhouse (cooked medium-rare, of course) arrived hot on a ceramic vessel. The top is caramelized, the butter and tallow (beef fat) dripping and crowding one corner of the plate. It's this triumvirate of 28-day dry aged meat, butter and fat that forms a formidablly explosive umami flavor bomb. The steak isn't melt in mouth like prime Japanese wagyu, but it's fair to say it's one of the best Western-style steaks you'll ever get to eat.

The steak sauce was too tangy ang tomato-y for my taste. Tried sprinkling some salt and pepper at a cut. I preferred the unseasoned meat. The creamed spinach (much imitated, and has been served since the restaurant opened in 1887) isn't drowning in cream, allowing you to taste the vegetable. Supposedly, it was Peter Luger which started the steak house trend of offering creamed spinach as a side dish. (right-click or long press on photos to enlarge)

***

It's been raining since noon. Which reinforced my choice to have dinner at Ivan Ramen para makahigop ng mainit na sabaw. Ivan Orkin is the American who became a ramen god in Japan and relocated again to New York to establish his own ramen niche Stateside. His story is featured in Netflix's Chef's Table series.

The restaurant, noisy and packed, attracted a generally young and hip crowd. I ordered the tonkotsu ramen.

The rich, pork-based broth was hot, but not piping hot. Mild black pepper flavor in there. The noodles were firm and springy, having a grainier, spicier taste than traditional Japanese ramen noodles (Orkin's experimentation with flours, rye in particular because of his Jewish background, was chronicled in the Netflix docu).

Tender chashu. Egg could be runnier. Spicy veggies retained a nice crunch. Pork fat glistened atop the sabaw, which verged on too savory and salty. Works well for me. That's from someone whose favorite chichirya is super alat BBQ Chippy, yung pula ang pakete.

The tonkotsu was a fine bowl of ramen overall.

(Very Late Post) Meeting Romy Dorotan at Purple Yam in Brooklyn

noreply@blogger.com (Con-Con San) — Tue, 24 Oct 2023 08:57:00 +0000

(From a visit in December 2022)

Thanks so much Brod Ronald Martinez for introducing me to Senior Fraternity Brother Romy Dorotan. THE Romy Dorotan of Purple Yam in Brooklyn, consistent recipient of the Michelin Bib Gourmand citation.

Brod Romy is a trailblazer and one of the pioneers of restaurant-level Filipino food in the US. He eagerly shared his humble beginnings washing dishes at his first restaurant job, working his way up and dreaming of serving Pinoy food (and Asian-inspired cuisine, by extension) that was accessible to non-Pinoys.

While places like Jeepney in Manhattan and Bad Saint in Washington, DC have fallen by the wayside, and Abaca in San Francisco has just started to make a name for itself, Purple Yam has taken root in the American dining consciousness (Eater.com, TheNew York Times and Michelin attest to its lofty status). It remains a steady presence in the local community. During our visit, there were groups of Pinoys, but there was an equal number of those who were not.

Our Saturday lunch was a veritable feast: okoy, kare-kare, sisig, plain and bagoong rice, grilled branzino fish in citrus-butter sauce, buko pie with macapuno ice cream, ube tikoy with champoy ice cream. The ice cream, Brod Romy makes himself. (right-click or long press on photos to enlarge)

It was the back and forth, the sharing of musings on food, people and experiences that made the meal more memorable. Food, after all, is about stories and memories. We talked about how every Filipino had her or his own adobo recipe, and how Brod Romy incorporated gata into his, on account of his Bicolano roots. He was at UP during the turbulence of the First Quarter Storm and the declaration of Martial Law, and was active in the anti-dictatorship movement in his early years in America.

Inevitably, the conversations led to ube, purple yam. "Ube Mandaraya" was Brod Romy's term, mentioned both in jest and with utter seriousness, for restauranteurs who cheated on the ingredient by using artificial extracts instead of the real thing.

We eventually had to leave, in deference to Brod Romy who still needed to personally handle matters in the kitchen and dining spaces. It was a privilege to have basked in my Alpha Phi Beta Brother's wisdom and comforting food even for just a few hours.

(Very Late Post) Le Bernardin in New York City

noreply@blogger.com (Con-Con San) — Tue, 24 Oct 2023 08:23:00 +0000

(From a visit in December 2022)

Seafood-focused Le Bernardin in midtown Manhattan has retained its 3 Michelin stars for over a decade, and is ranked 44th among the World's 50 Best Restaurants for 2022. It also celebrated its 50th birthday this year, having transferred to New York in 1986 from its original Paris location.

I emailed them early November and was advised "the holiday season reservations went quite quickly this year." The equally-elegant and less formal Lounge area allowed walk-ins on a first-come, first-served basis, so I took my chances and came early for the 12 noon opening. Was seated easily.

The Lounge-only "City Harvest" menu consisted of three dishes (you pick one starter, a main and a dessert from a short list of choices), though the guest could order all main dining room courses, including the full tasting menu and a la carte items. I added the Pan Roasted Duck Breast to my City Harvest set for a non-seafood based dish. Para may maiba.

Brioche and baguette, pantawid gutom while waiting for the savory dishes, dahil sinadyang hindi mag almusal. The brioche was notably flaky and fluffy.

They would replace your empty butter vessel if needed. I finished two.

Maine Lobster, Saffron-Mussel Potato Soup. Daming sahog, hitik sa lobster. The tomato base was rich, deep yet not overpowering. The soup gave comforting warmth, a refuge from the frostiness just outside the restaurant's tinted glass walls.

Baked Red Snapper, Lobster “Cannelloni”, Squash Blossom - Lobster-Corn- Étouffée Sauce Bisque.

There was an explosion (no other word would suffice) of lobster and seafood essence the moment the server poured the bisque. Ambango. Ansarap din. That bisque was divine, life-changing even -- complementing, nay, surpassing the desirability of the un-fishy snapper. The fish meat was baked to perfection, no exaggeration. Moist, firm, not soggy, doesn't disintegrate with deliberate pokes of a utensil.

The soft squash bits were somewhat a perfunctory element and questionable in their purpose. Not likely meant for visual flair, as they were hidden beneath the fish anyway. Perhaps textural counterpoints to the fish?

The cannelloni was meticulously prepared. Opulent lobster flavor invades your mouth.

Couldn't resist requesting another serving of the bisque. The server obliged. Kinutsara yung "sows" at isda paulit ulit. Simot sarap.

I ordered my duck medium.

Very aromatic preparation. Le Bernardin showed its mastery of technique through tender meat and crispy skin.

Just look at that delineation between laman at balat.

The server must have duly noted my penchant for extra helpings of spread and sauce. Right after pouring my aged port wine preparation, he placed an added pot of it on my table. Truly attentive service and commendable attention to detail, befitting a restaurant of this caliber.

Pistachio Praliné Ice Cream, Grand Marnier Bavarois. Google describes a bavarios as "a dessert consisting of milk thickened with eggs and gelatin." Le Bernardin's was decadent without being one-dimensionally sweet.

Was also served a complementary piece of pastry, the texture of which was dead-on similar to our local kababayan, but with a tart berry filling.

The restroom is spick and span...

...with artful touches.

When I left close to two hours later, the place was buzzing at full capacity. This temple of gastronomy's "embrace of strong flavors" leaves indelible imprints on the brain. Well worth the splurge. Tutal, balik kornik at chichirya na naman uli paguwi ng Pinas.

(Very Late Post) Taiwan Eats Part Two (with Michelin Bib Gourmand Stalls)

noreply@blogger.com (Con-Con San) — Tue, 24 Oct 2023 02:32:00 +0000

(From a visit in April 2023)

Braised pork over rice for lunch. A breakfast bowl of beef noodle soup. At the Ningxia and Raohe Night Markets, separating the hyped from the truly delicious. The flavors are both familiar and slightly distinct. Perhaps one of the core differences of Taiwanese from Pinoy cooking cooking lies in the former's more regular use of certain spices like clove, star anise, peppercorns, cooking wine.

Jin Feng in the Chiang Kai Shek Memorial area is known for its Lu Rou Fan (Taiwanese Braised Pork Rice Bowl). My lunch, which included a separate order of veggies, ran to around NTD 95 or Php 170.

At first glance, the ulam seems bitin. Jin Feng has reportedly mastered a serving ratio of topping and rice that optimizes deliciousness. In fairness, the small bowl is indeed malinamnam, mixing savory and asado-like flavors -- reminiscent of a good pares back home.

The sauce isn’t greasy. Not too thick, likewise. May lasap na naninikit sa dila.

Liu Shandong Beef Noodles. The place, located in a narrow, inconspicuous alley, fills up easily at its 8am opening. (right-click or long press on photos to enlarge)

Went for the Pure Beef Braised Noodle Soup (NTD 160, Php 285), which was served hot in a large bowl.

Beef-y broth, not too salty and seemingly without added vetsin. Thick, chewy noodles. Tender meat. Walang sebo. Walang natira. This is a hearty breakfast that'll power you through the day.

Ningxia Night Market is a less sprawling but no less crowded congregation of stalls (compared to the more tourist-familiar Shilin and Raohe, that is) catering mostly to locals.

These balls better be good, I said to myself as I joined a line that was already more than 50 people long even before the stall, Liu Yu Zi (劉芋仔, Bib Gourmand), started selling to customers. They had a pure taro ball and one filled with pork floss and egg yolk.

I don’t get the hype. Especially considering the effort expended to get them. There's no fancy prep method or dark arts cooking methods involved here. Just dunking taro (gabi) orbs in hot oil. Buy hey, what do I know?

I mistakenly queued at the take away line at Fang Chia Shredded Chicken on Rice (方家雞肉飯, Bib Gormand) and was handed a paper box of their signature dish (NTD 50, Php 90).

I was ready to dismiss this after the initial disappointment with the taro balls. Was surprised instead by the flavorful, sweet-salty sauce on the chicken and rice – a mild mix of onions, soy and molasses, it seems.

A drizzly early evening didn’t deter my Raohe Night Market visit.

The first stall at the entrance was Fuzhou Black Pepper Bun (福州世祖胡椒餅, Bib Gourmand). The bun (NTD 60, Php 107) was sold hot off the makeshift oven.

Texturally dense and on the crunchy side (think baguette, as opposed to the usual soft and fluffy bao or bun dough). Has a black peppery piquancy.

Chen Tung Pork Ribs Medicinal Herbal Soup (陳董藥燉排骨, Bib Gourmand) appears to be one of the most popular places at Raohe.

Ordered the ribs soup and the pork rice topping (NTD85 + NTD 30, Php 205 total). The soup is light. Its mellow herbal sweetness, with hints of star anise and collagen, has pleasing depth. I’m not sure about its medicinal qualities, doubting if it will cure me of my perennial longing for beer or if it will enhance my virility, but no matter. This is good broth. The rib meat is nearly fall off the bone. Gusto kong ngumangatnat at sumisipsip ng laman mula buto.

The pork on rice is ordinary. Vastly inferior to Jin Feng’s.

Of the three night markets visited, I'd rate Ningxia the most worthy of exploration. Raohe and Shilin come next.

(Very Late Post) Taiwan Eats Part One (with Michelin Bib Gourmand Stalls)

noreply@blogger.com (Con-Con San) — Tue, 24 Oct 2023 01:45:00 +0000

(From a visit in April 2023)

Ay-Chung sells mee sua (miswa) with pig intestines in a faintly-smoky pork based broth, served piping hot. The sabaw is actually light, not thick, though the preparation appears malapot because the serving is so densely packed with miswa. (right-click or long press on photos to enlarge)

Didn't add condiments. Not mindblowing, tbh, though it's concededly comforting on a drizzly afternoon.

Shilin Market's Good Friend Cold Noodles (好朋友涼麵, Bib Gourmand) and Egg Drop Soup are what you travel for. The mild garlic and strong peanut flavors in the sauce are new to me. Mix them with cold noodles and finely sliced cucumbers and you get a dish that's disarming in its purity and simplicity. The two orders cost NTD 95 (Php 170).

Lots of eggs in the soup. Some tofu cubes and the surprising (to me, at least) addition of what I'd surmise to be Chinese soybean paste (I wouldn't call it Japanese miso, it isn't as umami-packed and the former's contribution was more visual) make for a soup I haven't had before.

A small alley houses Chung Chia Sheng Jian Bao (好朋友涼麵, Bib Gourmand), specializing in pork and vegetable buns at NTD 16 (Php 29) each.

Shilin Night Market has plenty of stalls selling similar lineups of sweet potato balls, wagyu skewers, fruit shakes, sausages, grilled squid, etc. I guess that's what makes Good Friend and Chung Chia Sheng Jian Bao stand out among so-called foodies and Michelin inspectors alike. These stalls are located just off the main food street, needing more effort to seek out in this big maze of a market.

A basement food court at a quieter part of the market area was doing brisk business.

You'd inevitably stumble upon these "Engrish" words and phrases.

I need me one of these.

(Very Late Post) Taïrroir in Taipei

noreply@blogger.com (Con-Con San) — Wed, 11 Oct 2023 00:55:00 +0000

One of the trip's highlights was dinner at Taïrroir (a portmanteau of "Taiwan" and "terroir"), a two Michelin-starred restaurant in Taipei. The reservation was secured through back and forth emailing two months prior, not through their website because they, as a matter of policy, seat at least two guests to a table. Being a solo diner meant I needed to reach a minimum order amount. Fair and understandable.

No apéritif was suggested. Three types of sparkling water were proposed instead. I ordered a locally-brewed IPA, attempting a risky experiment drinks-wise -- wanted to find out if the beer's innate bitterness will clash with the food's flavors. Also ordered a glass of white wine, making a specific instruction to serve the vino before the fifth course.

Three amuse-bouche. One made of sticky rice (which had the texture of puto), one with French green lentils with a refreshing citrusy element and one with fried mushrooms. I liked the one with the mushrooms best, which had a Taiwanese street food feel to it, but with a curious lemongrass addition. (right-click or long press on photos to enlarge)

First Course. Kabocha Pumpkin Velouté, Pu'er Tea, Watercress Cuttlefish Dumpling. The velouté (accent on the é, hindi balut) tasted like a tea-infused pumpkin soup. Could be thicker, but a lusher consistency might have drowned out the delicate tea flavor perhaps?

Gorgeous looking dumpling. Bland. Too much watercress, too little cuttlefish.

Wheat bread and mini baguette with Taiwan-sourced butter and sea salt.

Second Course. KAVIARI "Crystal" Caviar, Peanut Tofu, Orange, Home-Brewing Umeshu. The tofu was a gem. Dense and super creamy. No exaggeration to state that this is one of the best tofu I've ever had. Caviar lacked pop, literally and figuratively. These didn't explode in the mouth. There's no expressive sea flavor you normally get from quality fish roe.

Third Course. Hokkaido Kegani Crab, Smoked Aubergine, "Hot and Sour", Tomato, Young Ginger.

The gelatin was blackened with squid ink, supposedly. Mellow tomato. Fresh, fibrous crab meat that's delightful and delicate. Umami comes through distinctly. Subtle ginger, showing thus an emphasis on the Euro side of things rather than the Chinese. The crab holds this dish together. Visually pleasing. Delicious.

Fourth Course. 65 degree Quail Egg, Taro "en Puree et Kueh", Yilan "Ya Shang", Sakura Shrimp. The dish was a showstopper. Very well-integrated.

The server placed the small duck cubes and the shrimp atop the pureed taro with two semi-raw quail eggs. The taro was luxurious, comparable to Robuchon's mashed potatoes in creaminess. World-class and unique, this preparation was. Eggs, from whatever sized bird, always add an element of luxury to the mouthfeel. Showed, likewise, Taïrroir's mastery of technique. The runny yolks, ever so brittle and delicate, didn't break despite being so well integrated with the taro.

My glass of white was poured before the fifth course, as per the earlier request made even before a single dish was served. It's this kind of attentiveness that elevates a dining place.

The pigeon main course was previewed. Two birds were to be divided among the guests at all eight tables.

Fifth Course. Abalone-Barley Risotto Stuffed Chicken Wing, Black Truffle, Cabbage, White Peppercorn Broth.

Homey, the broth brimming with rich chicken flavor (pretty certain no shortcut supermarket bouillon cubes were used here). The truffles were redundant. Not needed to make the dish successful, but who says no to truffles? Nice textures for the firm rice and the cooked-to- semi-chewy abalone bits. The meat of the deboned chicken wing was supple yet tender. Not overcooked. This was a chicken soup for the soul, as they say.

Sixth Course. Maine Lobster, Romesco, Carrot, Wonton in "Dandan Style", Chestnut.The Dandan style was briefly explained by the server as a spicy prep method. The lobster wonton hiding below the foam was tasty, but there's too much spice anghang here that it almost numbs the palate (I like spicy food, just to be clear).

This is where the bitterness in the IPA (what's left of it, anyway) came in handy, to put out the palate fire the white wine cannot. I guess then that my drinks experiment was successful. The lobster plate was classically French. No complaints here, but taken with the spicy dish, this course was a confusing, unharmonious pairing.

Seventh Course. Ping Tung Pigeon, Pea Shoot Malfatti, Offal "Burger", Liver Parfait, Mole, Shacha.

Having the pigeon meat with the pea and mole sauces was interesting, but it was the French-Chinese jus with a shacha inspiration that worked best (according to Google, shacha is a savory and slightly spicy Chinese condiment). The pigeon was another showcase of technique. Tender, succulent medium-cooked meat with crispy skin. Taïrroir’s pigeon leg was nice to chew on using one's bare hands.Using the earthy liver dip further enhanced the sense of playfulness.

Pre Dessert. Ricotta Whey Sago, Musk Melon Sorbet, Musk Melon Sake Soda. I got melon and sake, mostly. The fruitiness of the wine complemented this refreshing, palate-cleansing dessert well.

Dessert. Ginger Ice Cream, Dried Longan, Glutinous Porridge, Homemade Brioche.This complicated dessert (which looked like a fried wonton) was marred by the ice cream. I'm rather ambivalent, okay, I'm not a fan of ginger except in a very limited number of dishes (lugaw and tinola among them). Ginger ice cream didn't, and doesn't, work for me.

Oolong tea, since I'm not a coffee drinker. Was already full at this point, choosing only a few of the petit fours offered. The chocolate-topped puff and the salted egg macaroon, in particular, proved effective in shoving aside the ginger ice cream's aftertaste.

Michelin describes a two-starred restaurant as "excellent, worth a detour." Taïrroir deserves its dual stars. On the rank of Comme chez Soi in Brussels and markedly better than 3-star French Laundry in Yountville at Napa Valley.

The dishes aren't strictly French-Taiwanese "fusion". The cooking methods are decidedly European, with the occasional nod to Taiwanese ingredients. There are tour de force pieces that you may likely not get elsewhere, like the quail eggs and taro number and the chicken wing soup.

The enemy of multi-course meals is umay and food fatigue. You almost reach that point at Taïrroir. Service was attentive yet a bit robotic and impersonal, contributed no doubt by the servers' need to speak in English instead of Taiwanese or Mandarin. They looked more relaxed and engaging with the local diners at the other tables. The restaurant also admitted not being used to getting solo diners. It was my first time being advised at this dining level that there was a minimum table charge which I needed to meet. I added two beer bottles for take away just to reach that minimum.

Just as well. It was a full week of eating and drinking, capped by this excellent dinner. And just to update – Taïrroir was awarded three Michelin stars in 2023.

Top Shelf Lambics: 3 Fonteinen Zenne y Frontera

noreply@blogger.com (Con-Con San) — Sun, 08 Oct 2023 02:47:00 +0000

The fourth time, if I’m not mistaken, having this world-class lambic blend. Always a different batch, of course. This one is Blend 53, Season 20/21.

Stone fruit and wood aromas. Warmed up, there's a lingering scent of tamarind. Tastewise, you’re treated to a delicate balance of acidity-sourness, some sweetness and saltiness, all in a harmonious package. Reminds me of an Asian "champoy", actually. With "lesser" 3F bottles, you get raw fruitiness from peaches, grapes and others but with Z&F, these fruits have undergone refined, loving transformation into wine, and that's what you get -- processed grapes, barrel and all. (right-click or long press on photos to enlarge)

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Bicolano Kinalas at Naga City

noreply@blogger.com (Con-Con San) — Wed, 04 Oct 2023 08:15:00 +0000

To an outsider, kinalas comes across as mami with dollops of gravy. It also tastes like mami with dollops of gravy. Made my order at Kinalas Twins "ispeysyal" by adding egg and chicharon (the rinds being served, curiously, in a separate plastic packet).

The ideal noodle bowl for me has a balanced ratio of noodles and broth. The one at Kinalas Twins leaned towards an abundance of noodles over soup, resullting thus in a heavy meal.

American Spontaneously Fermented Sours

noreply@blogger.com (Con-Con San) — Sat, 30 Sep 2023 23:04:00 +0000

Russian River Beatification 2019 (% abv) and Crooked Stave Spon III 2022 (6.1% abv) were produced in a process that mimics Belgian lambics.

The Russian River beer has airiness and fruity funk. Generous barrel character -- you taste woodiness and an umami-like saltiness immediately after the initial brush of lemon-pineapple sourness. At around four years old, this bottle actually borders on too barrel-heavy, which isn't ideal. (right-click or long press on photos to enlarge)

The Crooked Stave brew, in comparison, is earthier, exhibiting grains and dried plant matter, giving the sense of something emanating directly from the soil. Brighter drinking, sharp citric tartness mostly from green apples, light barrel character. Spon III is ticklish and exuberant. Really good. Crooked Stave's brewing voice is often drowned out in a hype-driven craft beer scene, but I've never had a bad beer from this brewery that's been honing its sour beer skills since 2010. This Spon III is testament to that.

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A Flanders Red Revisit

noreply@blogger.com (Con-Con San) — Sat, 30 Sep 2023 02:13:00 +0000

An almost forgotten beer style, the Flanders Red is. If you've had a Duchesse de Bourgogne (you see it once in a while in local stores), it's a classic example of how a Flanders Red tastes like -- tangy and refreshing, especially if you're into sour beers.

Two aged bottles here. Holgate's Wild Red Ale (6% abv, bottled 2016) smelled of strawberry fruit jam and, um, latex. Tamarind, red wine vinegar, soil and wood on the palate. Sour and savory, like a not-too-spicy chutney.

The nose on Rodenbach's Caractère Rouge (7% abv, bottled 2017) was way more complex - loads of red berries, spice, brown bread. The taste elevates what a typical Flanders Red is. Rodenbach, after all, is one of the world's great breweries. Sweet, jammy fruit. Teasing sourness without any needless weightiness from the barrel. There's even a ripe fruit juiciness at the end. At five years old, the beer is spectacularly pristine, giving endless loops of unmuddled flavors. Very quaffable. (right-click or long press on photos to enlarge)

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Simple Brews from East End Brewing and Grimm-American Solera

noreply@blogger.com (Con-Con San) — Sat, 30 Sep 2023 02:07:00 +0000

Ultimately, nothing truly satisfies as much as a perfectly-brewed simple, "basic" beer. East End Brewing's Gratitude barleywine (11.2% abv) and the Grimm-American Solera collab American Grimm (8.6% abv) baltic porter are those types of brews. No adjuncts, no aging in fancy barrels. Just getting the basics right.

American Grimm brings medium-roast coffee and mocha aromas. The roastiness extends to the palate. No discernible sweetness. Flavorful, light, without any thick stout ambitions. A "mere" porter this may be, but very well crafted.

Gratitude smells of hops and grains, vaguely like an East Coast IPA that's been opened after lying forgotten in the fridge for some time. An American-style barleywine is uncommon these days. This beer is reminiscent of Sierra Nevada's Bigfoot, only smoother. It's like the hops have been polished and refined, not just dumped relentlessly as in an IPA. A bitter barleywine uses the hops' power to jolt the senses and highlights their ability to exist harmoniously with caramel sweetness.

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Aged Old School Stouts

noreply@blogger.com (Con-Con San) — Sat, 30 Sep 2023 02:03:00 +0000

Oldies but goodies. 2017 Dogfish Head Oak-Aged Vanilla World Wide Stout (16% abv, produced before the merger with Boston Beer Co.) and 2017 Evil Twin-Lervig Big Ass Money Stout (16% abv, brewed with pizza and real money, according to the brewers).

World Wide Stout - Rich aroma of coconut cream and licorice. For a 5-year old beer, the alcohol remains prickly on the tongue. No-nonsense flavors of roast, dark chocolate, cocoa powder. Minimal sweetness. The vanilla element has all but vanished.

Big Ass Money Stout - Pours visibly thicker than WWS, the latter already being advertised as "brewed with a ridiculous amount of barley" (can it be because of Big Ass' added pizza crust and moolah?). Weaker nose than WWS. A gimmicky beer when released, but the added ingredients, though preposterous, are tame compared to the kinds of adjuncts added to beers these days. More mellow alcohol heat. Sticky like a melted Belgian chocolate bar. Cacao and caramel upfront. Mostly bitter, with a sweet undertone.

The key to full enjoyment is slow and deliberate drinking. Swirl and twirl in the glass, push the liquid back and forth on the tongue. The flavor rewards are tremendous. The Scandinavian collab presents more taste layers and is more "balanced" for the same alcohol level as the DFH brew.

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"India Pale Ales" Loosely Defined

noreply@blogger.com (Con-Con San) — Sat, 30 Sep 2023 01:58:00 +0000

This tasting-comparison was prompted by the very informative Craft Beer Channel post at YouTube about the history of IPA. Here's the link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4N03L8kPYQE.

No one would normally think that the Belgian Trappist beer Orval would seemingly hew to the prototype of the original India Pale Ale that existed during the heyday of British colonization (and which was actually sent to India on months-long boat trips), but the YT video argues that somewhat it does. The 2022 release has that mellow earthy bitterness that actually reminds one of a British pale ale or an ESB. (right-click or long press on photos to enlarge)

Orval was tasted side by side with Amerikan Pis, a "Belgian Double IPA" brewed by one of my favorite breweries, Brasserie De La Senne, in collaboration with US brewers Perennial, Somewhere Else, Off Color, Yazoo and Keeping Together. It isn't the Brett-y Belgian IPA I know, however, and it's less earthy, notably more hop forward and floral than Orval.

The nice thing about beer is you learn something new every day.

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