Extra Petite

Tutorial: DIY scallop hem for skirts, dresses, shorts or tops

2013-05-19T21:32:00.001-04:00

Supplies: A too-long skirt, iron, thread, a circular template, fabric chalk, scissors, and a butterknife or chopstick

Last weekend, I watched one of my younger brothers, Ed, graduate and was beaming with pride the entire time. I can't wait for him to settle into the Bay Area for grad school, so big sis can invite herself over and gorge on all the good eats there. During our long drive home from graduation, I mentioned that I'd been meaning to post the steps for this skirt, but had no spare skirts or scrap fabric to recreate the hem. Ed offered to whip up a simple animated tutorial. I had no idea what to expect, especially since I was certain he dozed off while I yapped on about the detailed steps. A few late nights of editing later, I think he did a great job conveying the basic concept (& the nice manicure was a bonus)!

*The below can only be viewed in flash-enabled browsers (ie. not on iPhones). Click play to begin.*

Scallop template: Before you begin any cutting or sewing, it may take some playing around with circular objects (tuna can, pasta jar lid, etc) to find one that will fit a whole number of times across the hem of your skirt. You can do trial and error, or measure the total width across your hem and divide it by the # of desired scallops to get a scallop diameter measurement. I did this, then searched in my kitchen for a flat circular object with the same diameter 1/3rd of the way up from the bottom.

Scallop design: I messed up my skirt the first time around, and pinpointed the issues to the shape and number of scallops. I recommend more obtuse angles between scallops for easier snipping (Step 9), which will result in cleaner corners and edges after the skirt is flipped right-side out and "shaped." As mentioned in a previous post, my first attempt with ~7 super-defined half circles came out looking like a Flinstones tunic. The second time around, I reduced the number of scallops to 6, used a larger circular template, and marked the circle 1/3rd of the way up (Step 5) for more shallow "waves" instead of deep half circles.

Ideal fabric: My skirt was a thin, stiffer cotton/poly blend, and I think precise detailing like shaped edges will come out best on similar material types. Sewers with experience may recommend using interfacing on the hem area. I didn't have any and am not sure what the exact benefits of interfacing are, so if anyone can shed light on that it'd be helpful.

Hope you enjoyed this tutorial, and please let me know if you have any questions! (Note: This is a scheduled post, but I will do my best to answer your questions upon my return)

A few reviews & related thoughts

2013-05-15T02:21:00.001-04:00

I have a few reviews today, but first wanted to share some related thoughts. As someone who often shops and recommends inexpensive clothes manufactured in lesser-developed countries, last month's tragedy in Bangladesh has been especially weighing on my mind. Unfortunately, it took such an event to bring this issue into the mind of the public—myself included. After discussing this topic on end with many friends, I've found that focusing on a few points has helped me to better process the events and to think about my own actions for the long-term.

Become more informed
I want to learn to be a more responsible consumer by getting information from reliable sources. It's easy to sign petitions, or boycott retailers accused of poor practices, or say one is willing to pay more for items made "in better conditions." But there are many moving pieces involved (ie. retailers in developing countries provide jobs -as low as wages may be- to workers who may otherwise not have one, and lower-priced items are not necessarily made in worse conditions than something priced at 20x more) that I need to learn more about. Below are a variety of links friends have passed along, and I'd appreciate any other specific sources of information on the industry and certain retailers.

- 2012 Apparel Industry Trends (sent to me by Petiteish) - An interesting report done by Free2Work which grades 50 apparel companies on a number of metrics including child & forced labor policies and workers rights. Amongst the evaluated companies are H&M, Gap, and Forever 21 (would be curious to see J.Crew and others in the ranks). Overall ratings can be found on pg 4 of the PDF.
- Article from the NY Times (shared by Elle) on retailers that joined Bangladesh safety coalitions after the tragedy, and also ones that have not. The reader commentary is very interesting - some informative, some naive, but mostly interesting to hear perspectives from different angles.
- "Shop with a Conscience" guide by SweatFree.org - I was curious to visit all of the apparel retailers on the list, but only found tee shirts, tanks, flip flops, etc. I'd love to learn about any companies that have similarly transparent labor standards, but offer styles comparable to the clothes featured on this blog.
- Post by Michelle that inspired me to share my own thoughts. She mentions that she has started to "build a spreadsheet...a check off list of ethic topics" that I am looking forward to reading more about.

Continue re-evaluating my shopping habits
When I first started blogging, I browsed stores every other day and often had several new purchases each week. I started to feel like I was living in a landfill of disposable items that all looked the same. Over the past two years, I’ve tried to reduce my overall consumerism (starting by tracking # & types of items bought) with more careful purchases, and pay more attention to sustainable fashion. That included prolonging the life of existing things in my closet, getting more from the second-hand market, and also doing my own sewing. It's been a challenge, as I admittedly enjoy shopping, have limited patience and skills for thrifting/sewing, and realistically don't expect to stop visiting mainstream retailers. As these goals are a constant work in progress, I would like to better understand the implications of my actions and learn more about the options for consumers.

At the end of the day, everyone has varying beliefs, needs, and means, and many of us will continue to shop the same retailers for inexpensive clothing that we can rely on to fit. As my following reviews indicate, I've personally been a longtime customer of the same handful of companies for those precise reasons, and am still turning to them for shopping needs. Re-evaluating this habit is hard, and I'm trying to start small by becoming more informed and to continuously work on my aforementioned goals. I would love to hear about your personal practices, as well as any sources of information that you rely on when making shopping decisions.

Reviews from the past month:
For a trip coming up this week, I realized my closet lacked casual layering clothes and footwear that can sustain days of tourist activities without being too unfashionable. I ended up with this pair of Toms (cannot yet attest to comfort nor durability), and may have overloaded a bit on stripes.

1. H&M girls striped cotton shorts, $12.95, item # 059671

I had been anticipating the release of these Gap striped shorts, but my size in petites sold out immediately and the regular runs roomy. These from H&M girls are a good alternative and have a cute 1/2" cuff at the bottom. I really like the lightly textured material (like a cross between linen and chambray) - it's thin and unlined, but sheerness shouldn't be an issue if you stick to beige undies. The fit of a size 11-12 is very good on me and I usually wear an H&M women's sz 2. These are available in a few more sizes up that may fit up to a womens 4 - 6. Front pockets are functional but back pockets are decorative only.

Sorry for the terrible back fit shot - wasn't having much luck taking photos over my shoulder!

The one downside I found is a bright pink embroidered logo on the top corner of the left pocket. I tried removing embroidered logos before (darn plentiful Abercrombie mooses) and it ended up being a disaster of cut threads. The one on here can be covered by a longer top, so it isn't so bad.

Measurements of girls 11-12: 14" across waist, 9" rise, 17" across hips, 10" front length. 100% cotton.

Verdict: Purchased and am very pleased with them.

2. Coffee Shop Petites (via Target) cotton jacket, $45.99, trying sz XSP

This jacket was first recommended by a reader, Alexis, and sold out online (petites not avail. in stores) pretty quickly. I had no intentions of trying it, but the more I wore my oversized Gap one, I realized I needed a better-fitting option. I picked this one up during a restock hoping it'd be a petite-friendly replacement. The quality is very good - the 100% cotton holds its structure well and has the stand up collar that I love, and I was also impressed by the fit throughout (like H&M 2 - 4). The waistline hits at the right spot and has adjustable drawstrings. The sleeves have tabs for cuffing, though I'd snip these and just simply wear them rolled up. The only issue is the color is more of a mossy brown-green than an army green.

Verdict: Did not keep due to the color.

3. Gap girls terry-lined pullover, ~~retail $29.95~~, extra 30% off online, on sale in-stores for 11.98

Ever since Nick banned me from borrowing his favorite terry striped pullover, I've been on the hunt for my own. These things have the comfort of a sweatshirt combined with the year-round versatility of a striped top. I first tried my luck at Gap womens and was on my way out when I spotted this on a kids table. The fit is typical of kiddie attire and runs wide and short. The sz M is a slouchy fit on me throughout, with the length hitting at my hips and sleeves ending above my wrist (look better rolled up). I loved it at first trial and planned on doing a simple slimming of the sleeves, but in my excitement I overlooked the raglan-style sleeves. My shoulders are sloping and narrow, so items without defined shoulders tend to make me look more childish.

Measurements of girls M: 18" length, approx 19" long sleeves, 15.5" across armpit, 15" across waist. 75% cotton, 25% poly.

Verdict: Purchased, but may bring back due to the shoulders & continue looking for a better option.

4. J.Crew Maritime blazer in "ivory dark cove" - on final sale in-stores for $35 (pricier online)

I was at J.Crew returning a shirt (a thoughtful surprise from Nick, but sadly I didn’t think it’d get much wear) and saw a whole bunch of these shrunken-looking blazers out of the corner of my eye. I had tried last year's version on during a pretty decent sale, and liked the style but was not wow’d by the torso fit nor the sleeves that needed shortening. I quickly noticed that all of the jackets left on the rack were in the same size - XXS - a telltale sign that it may run small. Sure enough, it fit very well and is comparable to their 00 petite. Per J.Crew's website, it was re-designed this year with "bracelet length" sleeves, which translate into no alterations needed for shorter-limbed ladies.

Note: the jacket is in a stiffer knit 93% cotton, 7% spandex that helps it hold structure but is still comfortable. It is partially lined only by the upper back area. Measurements of an XXS reg - 14" across shoulder, 16.5" across armpit, 14.4" across waist (my only complaint is the waist could nip in more), 20" length, 20" sleeve length.

Verdict: Purchased and will be getting a lot of wear out of this. I tweeted the store that I found this at and suspect they are sold out by now, but J.Crew does store search if you have the style # (84593, color IDC), and also ships to homes domestically for $8.95.

Spring in full bloom: Candied tweed + floral dress as a top

2013-05-10T00:43:00.000-04:00

J.Crew dress in "Garden Floral" sz reg 00 (this year's version - use SALE30 for 30% off everything)

Burberry trench sz 2 (similar), Ann Taylor skirt, Pour la Victorie wedges (similar by PLV)

I've lived in Boston for 8 years, and I never remember loving springtime so much. In contrast with recent events, the blossoming trees and beds full of tulips look prettier than ever. I felt inspired to dig this little floral number out of storage, and make the strapless style be suitable for work.

Faux-pearl necklace from Nordies Rack (similar on eBay), Coach bag (review)

I absolutely adore this "Garden Floral" print, and was excited to see via Gigi that J.Crew brought it back this year at their factory store, in a more work-appropriate style. I showed 3 ways to style this dress last year, and am rounding it out with #4 - worn as a top.

I fell in love with this candy-colored tweed skirt from Ann Taylor last fall, but it only came in regular sizing. Since costly alterations would be required regardless of size, I tried to hold out for a better price. Pencil skirts that have no pockets or other details are easier to re-size, but I wouldn't recommend tailoring something that's more than 3 sizes up from what you usually wear (any darts or curves in the cut would not lie in the right place post-alterations). I ended up finding a sz 4 on sale, and spent about $20 to have the waist and sides taken in.

Since the floral plus colored tweed is on the busier side, I finished off this outfit with my trusty neutral trench (best wardrobe purchase ever) and a pair of nude wedges. Nick dislikes these saying "they just look like feet," which is precisely why anyone seeking a leg-lengthening effect might enjoy them. I originally saw the patent version on Blair, and did a double take when my size popped up on a sample sale site (invite). Unfortunately I got the last few pairs of these at the time (for two friends), but Nine West has a similar option in patent, starting in size 5.5.

(Anne Michelle sandals, Louboutin cap toes, Ferragamo Vara pumps, PLV wedges)

From Instagram

PS - Thank you so much to everyone who came out to Marshalls Fenway yesterday, despite the Sox game plus a wave of humidity! Anna, Bonnie, Jen, Adriana, Brinkley (?) and your chic mom and cousin, Paula, Hannah, and several other awesome (& such smart!) ladies - I had a great time meeting and chatting with you all!

Weekend Wear: DIY Scalloped skirt & Ferragamo Varina Flats

2013-05-06T00:20:00.000-04:00

Thrifted skirt w/ DIY scallop hem, BR Mad Men dress c/o (last worn here) and swing jacket (old)

Ferragamo Varina flats, Ann Taylor foldover clutch, Chanel tortoise wayfarer sunglasses

If you have any plain old skirts or dresses that need a touch of something, consider trying your hand at a DIY scalloped hem. This skirt was a happy find for me at Savers/Value Village thrift store for just $3.99. The waist (labeled a size 6) fit perfectly without alterations, and there are pockets on each side (score!). I started to do a basic hem on the matronly mid-calf length, however switched gears partway through to something a little more unique.

I took photos for a scallop hem tutorial but made the mistake of "learning as I go." My scallops initially came out very defined, almost jagged, and could've given Freddy Flinstone a run for his money. After making some modifications, the second attempt came out exactly like I had hoped. Unfortunately, precious fabric was lost due to errors from round 1, leaving me with a skirt short enough to inspire some thigh toning exercises.

Knit jacket: H&M (very old)

Hemming the scallops the second time around took under an hour, and is something beginner sewers can do. Since my initial photos have been rendered useless, I hope to re-create the steps and post a tutorial in a week or two.

After falling in love with the Ferragamo Vara low-heel pump, the more modern flats were next on my list. I find that Ferragamo shoes in general run slim in the toes and heel, which is great for those with more narrow feet. I love the design of these, however the stiff patent leather required a break-in period like the infamous Tory Burch Reva flats. This pair is very comfortable now, but I'm disappointed that shoes at this price are not comfortable right off the rack.

Earlier this month, I also received an email from Savers / Value Village. I'm always happy to hear from companies that I frequently patronize, and was excited to get some gift certificates to share. I'll be posting a giveaway after my ShoeMint one ends, so please stay tuned if you're a Savers / VV fan!

Spring citrus, silver pumps & ShoeMint Giveaway (3 winners!)

2013-04-30T22:03:00.003-04:00

LOFT box pleat blouse (now extra 60% off), H&M blazer (still in stores) sz 2

Gelareh pumps sz 5.5 c/o ShoeMint, DIY convertible skirt, Morgan Ashleigh necklace

Now that the weather is finally warming up, I’ve been turning to zesty yellow and lime green to brighten up my work wardrobe. I do want to mention, however, that an outfit like this is not appropriate for every type of business environment. At meetings with clients or "serious" government officials, I usually go with a muted-colored, knee-length suit to ensure that attire isn’t the reason I won’t be taken seriously. For days when only my internal team will lay eyes on me, I have a little more fun getting dressed.

For an outfit ripe with brights and neons, I found that a soft metallic shoe works just as well as the usual staple nude. I was excited to see these ShoeMint pumps that look just like a popular designer style, and are offered in extended sizing down to a 5. I went with silver to replace an old, similar pair, bought back in the day when I thought 6 was the smallest shoe size out there. Thank goodness for the advent of online shopping, otherwise I’d still be gripping my toes to keep heels from flying off.

Fit & quality notes: I am between size 5 – 5.5 in most brands (for reference, I take a 5 in Ann Taylor and 5.5 in J.Crew/BR), and usually size up for pointy styles so my toes don’t have to suffer. A 5.5 in these fit perfectly. I love the sharp silhouette, and feel the price is good for a genuine leather pump. The brand partners with Steve Madden for craftsmanship, and I found the quality of these to be reflective of that.

ShoeMint is also sponsoring a fun giveaway open to both U.S. and Canadian readers - three readers will win a pair of shoes of their choice. To enter:

- Mandatory: Sign up here to be a member of ShoeMint and fill out the giveaway form below. It's free to sign up, and new members can get 20% off full priced items w/ code RACHEL20.
- Optional: Facebook fans will receive 1 extra entry. Thank you to each one of you who have supported this blog through various social media channels!

a Rafflecopter giveaway

OPI "Havana Dream" polish

I ordered this box pleat blouse during LOFT's last big sale, and have found it to be a good warm-weather basic. The material is 100% polyester (which I almost prefer to silk because it's machine washable), drapes well, tucks into bottoms without bulk, and doesn't wrinkle much throughout the day. It is very thin and sheer, however, so I make sure to wear a nude-colored bra underneath. For sizing, I am wearing an xxs petite here without any alterations. Measurements are: 13" across the shoulders, 17.5" armpit to armpit, 20" length, 16.5" sleeve length. The lighting and temperature changed so drastically in the five minutes I was taking these photos...I am purple & fighting a fit of shivers in the below pic, but included it anyways to show the fit of the top.

Thank you for entering this giveaway, and good luck!

Leather trim + leopard linen (& all-over coat alterations)

2013-04-29T01:14:00.000-04:00

Emerson Fry coat (from last season, altered), Gap petite sweater

J.Crew bag - 25% off everything w/ SPRINGBEST, Ann Taylor leather trim skirt (similar), YSL heels

This outfit features pieces that have trendier details, but have nevertheless become classics in my fairly conservative wardrobe. Last October, I saw this leopard linen coat on Chloe and didn't wait five minutes before messaging her about the quality and fit. A leopard print coat may not be everyone's cup of tea, but I loved the more wearable textured linen unlike the usual faux fur. After trying on so many items that I've felt yawningly indifferent about, I've been all the more appreciative of pieces that get me excited at first sight.

Chloe responded that she felt the quality was impeccable ("a rarity these days"), but the fit ran big so I'd probably need alterations. The jacket was pricey to begin with, and I estimated all-over alterations to be about $150 and risky without a trusted tailor. I love a good coat and have splurged on several in the past - mostly items that have earned their worth in # of wears, but also an impulsive purchase or two that are now gathering dust. I wanted to make sure this wouldn't end up like the latter.

Fast forward to January and I was still thinking about the darn coat, which had by then sold out at full price. After doing my 2012 year-end wardrobe spending analysis, I was surprised to find out I shopped nearly 40% less both in item count and $-wise than in 2011. I still love my H&M, but weeding out frequent trips to "the usual" retailers and sale racks resulted in more closet space and funds for things that I really wanted. I began my hunt for a pair of Valentino pumps that I'd been admiring for half a year (namely on Wendy), plus this coat. Thanks so much again Vicki K. for alerting me when a size 00 popped back into stock!

As expected, the coat was roomy throughout, but I saw potential for a piece that I'd enjoy for years to come. I wish I could say the same for Nick, who was horrified at the massive amount of leopard and dubbed me "Cruella Deville." I usually value his honest, unfiltered thoughts, but this was something I knew I loved regardless of opposing opinions. My only qualm was some stains on the coat. I contacted customer service and they were impressively responsive, and somehow located another one in the same size. I sent mine back for an exchange and was informed that the new one coming to me would be marked down 50% off to reflect an upcoming clearance sale. Totally unexpected, but no complaints here!

And now for the not so fun but unfortunately necessary part of having well-fitting clothes - getting & paying for alterations. Wendy, who is very similar to me in size, bought the same coat and got it beautifully altered in L.A. (as shown in the below right pic). Her tailor took the torso up by the shoulders, which is a fix I'm familiar with for dresses and tops but never had done for a coat. I imagine it's very complex, but the end result is a proportionate, properly-tailored garment ...versus one that has just been hemmed and taken-in, but with all the details (button and pocket placement, lapels, etc) left unadjusted. I was fascinated! Proper tailoring must be a dying art, as the tailors I asked in Boston said they'd never done that for coats, and quickly shunned my suggestion like it was a bunch of baloney.

Left: Unaltered coat on me in sz 00, leopard "linebacker" style

Right: Wendy's coat post-alterations on her - entire torso was lifted by the shoulders, shoulder width was narrowed, sleeves were slimmed, torso was slimmed and hemmed

Wendy so kindly offered to take my coat to her tailor and mail it back, but in the end I just went to one that I've been visiting in Chinatown (located on Knapp St & speaks Chinese only). I proposed a "fitting," and asked the tailor to leave the lining seams unfinished until I could try the coat on and give feedback. I'm a wuss when it comes to asking tailors to re-do work, so figured this request would set some expectations. I mentioned this after he had already finished all the pinning and chalk-marking. After he understood what I meant through my embarrassingly broken Chinese, he went back and checked the markings, plus took detailed measurements of my body (aha...hopefully was encouraged to do a more thorough, accurate job the first time around).

A month and a fitting later, the results are not perfect from all angles, but I think my tailor did the best his skills would allow. Unlike Wendy's results, the lapel/pockets/buttons on mine were not shifted upwards, so the lower button hole comes dis-proportionately close to the shortened hem (I removed the button itself). Despite some issues, I adore the coat - and Nick even had me doubled over in surprise when he mentioned how much he now enjoys it.

Total cost was $60 to take in the shoulders, slim and hem the torso, and slim the sleeves. I was expecting to pay well over $100, and felt this was extremely low for the amount of work done (which the tailor proclaimed himself afterwards). His rates are very unpredictable, though - he'll charge me $12 to slim a skirt one month and $25 the next (possibly after realizing how much work the prior one was), and I don't argue. My aunt says not to bargain with tailors after you've handed over the clothes, if you want your stuff to come back in the best shape possible!

Readers - Have you ever had a coat or blazer taken up by the shoulders (or done it yourself)? If so, please share how it turned out and how much the job cost.

Reviews: Old Navy wrap dress, Nordstrom petites jacket & more

2013-04-24T23:12:00.002-04:00

Spring has me itching for prints and stripes, and there was no shortage of such in my April packages. Although I found just one keeper, there were several decent contenders that I still wanted to share.1. Old Navy wrap dresses (in reg, petite, tall) - 5 color/prints available, use ONSAVENOW for 15% off

I really like my DVF-inspired ON wrap dress from last year, and couldn't resist trying their current version in petites. PXS fit well off the rack, and the wrap style is forgiving and adjustable. Their regular-sized version last year required so many tedious DIY alterations for me...I'm glad they decided to bring this back in extended sizing!

H&M blazer (old), vintage shoes from eBay

The rayon material is on the thin side, so I'd recommend wearing a slip skirt underneath (I own this in both colors and wear them all the time). Please excuse the wrinkles in the photos as I forgot to iron.

Verdict: Returned, but would recommend in the various colors/prints. The fit is good for a petite garment and the wrap style is so easy to throw on for work or weekends. I was ready to keep this, but Nick convinced me otherwise - I don't love this year's prints enough to justify buying a duplicate just yet.

2. ASOS Dress in Striped Jacquard - free ship both ways, try SALESCORE for 10% off, or CHECKOUTTREAT for 10% off $75+

H&M blazer (old), J.Crew mona heels

I love the look and sturdy texture of this black & white dress, but as expected, something was off about the fit of a regular sized garment on a sub-5 foot tall frame...

The shape of the skirt is very full and swingy (made from a full circle), which makes a proportionate fit very important. The dress fit fine on me width-wise in a US 2 / UK 6, but the waistline was an inch or two lower than my ideal placement. The dress looked excellent with heels, but when paired with low shoes, the too-long torso on me became more evident and made legs look stumpier.

I know this issue is barely noticeable in photos, but the belted photo below shows my ideal waistline for a fuller dress. My first thought was to raise the shoulders (see below right with binder clips pulling the shoulders up), but the neckline was then choke-me tight. Due to the thickness of the material and construction of the shoulder straps, it would also not be an easy alteration.
Measurements of a US 2 / UK 6: 15.5" from top of shoulder to waistline, 14.5" armpit to armpit, 12.5" across waist, 17.5" skirt length. 85% cotton, 14% nylon, 1% elastane.

Verdict: Returned, but would recommend for someone at least 1-2" taller who doesn't mind an exposed back metal zipper. The material is of medium-thick weight and good quality, and the silhouette is fun and flirty.

3. Gap Printed Pointy Flats (small sizes no longer available online; in-store sizing starts at 6)

Wearing a sz 5 - sorry for the terrible photo!

I tweeted excitedly about these when more sizes were available, so I hope any interested readers were able to pick up a pair. I've never tried Gap shoes before and had no idea what to expect, but have to say I am very impressed by these. There is cushioning on the inside, the pointy toe is unexpectedly comfortable, and I was surprised to find out these were genuine leather. I was looking for a stylish, inexpensive travel shoe - and these cuties fit the bill.

I got these with a 30% off coupon online for $35, and saw them on sale in-stores for quite a bit less. Unfortunately for small-footed ladies, in-store sizing starts at 6+. There was also a ponyhair brown leopard which I loved, a red with purple polka dot leather, and a black and white spotted ponyhair option.

4.Halogen Petites Navy Striped Jacket (also in regular sizing for half the price)

J.Brand legging jeans, Target wedges (old), vintage bracelet

I was sad to miss out on Gap's textured stripe jacket, but was subsequently excited to find a similar option at Nordies (down to a size 00P, which I've never seen there before). The Halogen petites sale price is the same as Gap's retail price, but that's what I get for being late to the game. The fit of this is very similar to 00Ps from LOFT/AT, so slightly roomy for someone my size. The torso cut is straight and the sleeves run on the wide side, as shown below (note: I have the sleeves clipped back in the top photo).

When zipped as shown below, I felt top-heavy like an upside down trapezoid. This jacket looks a lot better open.

The quality of this little jacket is similar to that of Ann Taylor. It's fully lined in a thin material, has two faux pockets at the top and 2 real zip ones at the bottom. I really liked the texture and weight (light-medium) of the material, as well as the classic navy and ivory color scheme. As with this boxy J.Crew jacket, though, the cut seems to work better with jeans/shorts/slacks than with dresses/skirts.

Measurements of a 00P: 15" armpit to armpit, 19" jacket length at the longest point in the front, 17" length at the back, 13.5" across the shoulder seams (14.5" across if including the shoulder padding), 15" across the waist when zipped up, 15" sleeve length, 5" sleeve width. 68% cotton, 25% rayon, 7% poly. This size is currently sold out online but I keep seeing new sizes pop back every few days.

Verdict: Still undecided. I like the colors and textured material, but feel unsure about the boxy cut. Nick gave it a thumbs up and says the cut is no boxier than my tweed jackets, but I feel the horizontal stripes accentuate the squareness of the shape more. I'd love to hear from anyone else who has tried on this jacket!

Simple Spring: White on White

2013-04-19T19:38:00.000-04:00

The past few days in Boston have been surreal, and I thank each one of you who have expressed care or concern. I read every message and truly appreciate your thoughts. We had group counseling at the office yesterday to help transition back to normalcy, only to wake up this morning to find the city panicked and in lockdown mode. As numerous tragic events keep unfolding around the world, I'm thankful for my friends and loved ones, and my heart goes out to those who've been affected.

J.Crew felted wool mini (altered) and pumps (similar), thrifted & altered blouse (similar)

Gap sweater jacket (stripe version) (similar), Prada tote, H&M scarf (similar under $10)

It feels frivolous to be posting fashion at this time, but writing this was a welcome respite from the chaos on TV. I wore this outfit to work a few weeks ago, and loved the look of a fresh ivory canvas plus an accent color and some neutrals. For a more casual setting, I replaced the blazer with a cozy sweater jacket, which also provided a punch of color.

This 100% silk, Lauren by RL blouse is one of my most-worn thrift store finds. It was several sizes too big, but I couldn't pass up the nice and weighty silk quality for $4 (especially when compared to the flimsy and sheer options typically found on today's market).

I altered the shoulders in a few inches by adding hand-stitched ruching, then slimmed the sleeves and torso (all steps shown here). I recognize this method is a shortcut and does not look ideal at the shoulders, but didn't have the patience to try a total re-sizing (tutorial here) again. After reaching for this blouse so much, I think it may have earned itself a professional tailoring overhaul.

This skirt went on my wishlist right after Elle's review, and ended up being the last part of my J.Crew end-of-year sale haul. With the repeated price cuts and extra discounts, it's easy to go a little nuts. I tried to narrow down the items I really loved, then considered which ones could withstand waiting through a few rounds of price cuts. I bought "online only" items first, but waited on things that could be found in stores. In-store sales are usually better than online, and sizes linger around at random locations - you just need to make sure the cost of store shipping doesn't trump the savings. I was also willing to buy items earlier on that would make up for the price difference in frequent wears.

When all was said and done, I went back to assess my damage over 9 months and note any lessons learned:

1. Schoolboy blazer in wool flannel (worn here) - $150 - bought at small discount due to classic color to fill wardrobe void, and online only petite sizing.
2. & 3. Mustard wool Lady Jacket and pencil skirt (worn here) - $146 (includes $20 for taking-in alterations) - bought fairly early for the petite sizing, plus caught an online pop-back of my size.
4. Camel Mona pumps - $110 - bought fairly early due to classic color and online only sz 5.5.
5. Crewcuts burgundy corduroy pants (worn here) - $14 - unecessary impulse buy due to aimlessly browsing sales racks, which I now try to avoid.
6. Ivory wool mini skirt - $54 (includes $9 "item finder" store to home shipping & $20 alterations) - waited til end of season clearance to do store search. Skirt is available in regular size only and would require alterations regardless, and sold out online & locally early on.

Total: $474 for 6 pieces.

Despite all the sales and steep discounts, it's easy to see that J.Crew prices can add up quickly. I also attempted to do the skirt alterations myself, but their waistband construction proved to be too complicated for my skill and patience. Except for the one impulse buy, however, I'm very happy with the purchases and have been wearing them on regular rotation.

Readers - How do you decide what items are worth buying earlier/at higher prices versus waiting for a better sale?

Wear to Work: Double Tweed + Strappy Pumps

2013-04-14T23:45:00.002-04:00

Uniqueen Malang jacket c/o (old color, use EXTRAPETITE through 5/2 for 10% off your order)

Valentino rockstud heels (4 colors), H&M blouse, LOFT trousers (similar), pearls from a friend

Just dropping in with a quick hello, and hoping you guys enjoyed your weekends. Work has been time-consuming, but I hope to have some reviews up soon. Our boss implemented casual Fridays for our team, as a small "reward" of sorts. While most of my colleagues have been turning to denim and polo shirts, I've been using this day to experiment with items like these strappy, open-back shoes - which typically are not appropriate per business attire standards.

To balance out the trendier details on these pumps, I went very conservative with the rest of the outfit both in color scheme and coverage. It feels like Boston has regressed back to winter, so the double tweed (plus overcoat) was also necessary to survive my morning commute.

Per my style resolutions this year, I've been inspired by a reader, Janki, to improve (or get rid of) things in my existing wardrobe before buying new items. So far this has meant swallowing several tailoring bills for things that I've been "faking the fit" with for too long. It's also made me really think twice about buying cheapie things that don't fit perfectly, yet aren't "worth" alterations. I have to say, I love having an (albeit smaller) wardrobe of pieces that I can consistently rely on and feel confident in. These old pants are next on the list for a little fix (cuff tapering tutorial here) - I always thought they were acceptable, but the roomy ankles couldn't escape being captured by a side view photo!

PS - I'm excited to try this Halogen jacket, offered in extended petite sizing that I've never seen at Nordies before (ordered 00 petite to try)! It looks just like a Gap one I loved from earlier this year, which sold out quickly and probably would not have fit. There's only one review so far on the Halogen jacket in regular sizing, noting that it runs small.

$20 striped maxi dress & find your fabulous at Marshalls event

2013-04-09T10:04:00.004-04:00

Dress c/o Marshalls, vintage Hermes belt c/o LXR & Co (invite), Chanel WOC

Steve Madden sandals (similar- so cute for under $25), H&M blazer (review, sleeves slimmed & shortened)

I've teamed up with a few lovely bloggers (Lani, Lissy, Khatu and Bettina) to host an event at Marshalls Fenway, which is the newest store location to open up in Boston. If you live in the area and have time on Wednesday May 8th, 6-8pm, I would absolutely love it if you stopped by! We will be sharing our favorite picks from the store and giving away quite a few gift cards to help "find your fabulous." There will also be several chances to win prizes, including items that each of us picked out. If you'd like to attend, please RSVP here so we can plan for the snacks and prizes accordingly.

I'm a big fan of maxi dresses for the comfort and ease, and this is the second time I've scored in the juniors department. The key for me is to find (or tailor) dresses with a simple cut in a stretchy but well-draping material, that just skims over the hips and legs and hits at the top of the foot. The end result is very lengthening and slimming, even when worn with flats or low shoes, as shown here.

This dress is actually a juniors sz M but looked narrow on the hanger and not too long. Sure enough, it fit similar to a petite S and the length was perfect with no hemming needed. I loved it the moment I tried it on, and just slimmed the sides a little. For anyone who is interested, it was $19.99 and the brand is "Max & Riley" - I've seen the same dress at two local Marshalls and TJ Maxx stores, but didn't find anything smaller than a M.

Love the paneled torso as well, which adds to the slimming effect. There is a short exposed zipper at the top back.

For casual days, I love the idea of topping off a maxi dress with a cropped denim or utility jacket. I don't own the former and my Gap army jacket was too long, so I went with this ivory blazer for a delicious brunch with friends. Long dresses keep legs warm during windy spring days (and delay shaving!) and are surprisingly breathable in hot weather as well - overall a win-win.

Tutorial: Easy DIY Elastic Waist A-Line Skirt w/ Pockets

2013-04-07T20:30:00.001-04:00

I'm looking forward to making this style skirt again with spring/summer-appropriate fabrics, and think it's a great easy project for beginner sewers to try (and inexpensive - cost me about $5 total). Please note that I am not an experienced sewer and these steps may not be technically correct - I usually take garments I own and try to trace back the steps to recreate them. For this skirt, I used this J.Crew skirt as a guide and added a few inches to the length and width for a fuller A-line shape.

You will need:
- 1 - 1.5 yards of fabric depending on the size of the skirt, and if you want pockets. I used 1.5 yards.
- Piece of soft elastic - at least 1" wide and long enough to fit around your waist.
- Sewing machine (my Brother is very old and discontinued; this is the most similar model), scissors & thread.

1. Cut two rectangular pieces of fabric for the front and back of the skirt. My rectangles were 21" long x 23" wide, for a skirt that ended up being 19" long x 22" wide at the bottom.

Length: However long you want your skirt to be, add about 3 inches (~ 2" allowance for a waist "casing" to conceal the elastic band, and ~1" allowance for the bottom hem). You can always hem the length shorter after trying it on.

Width: Depends on how full you want your skirt to be. For my skirt, I nearly doubled my waist measurement. If you want the same approximate fullness, take your waist circumference measurement, divide it in half, and multiply it by 1.9. This will be the width of your rectangular pieces of fabric.

Pockets (Optional): Fold your fabric so that the patterened sides are facing inwards at each other. Draw out and cut 2 sets of ear-shaped material as shown - 4 pieces of fabric total for the pockets.

2. Lay out your fabric pieces as shown, and pin the ears about 4" down from the top edge. It's hard to see in the photo below, but I also took chalk and marked "F" for front and "B" for back in the corners of the rectangular panels, and also "FL" on the front left pocket, "FR" on the front right pocket, and so on, just as notes for myself when I assemble them together.

3. Stitch along where my yellow pins are shown - down the entire length of the straight edge of the pocket. Repeat for each pocket. Whenever you stitch a line, make sure to backstitch when you begin and also when you finish, to keep the thread from unraveling.

4. Iron down the newly-stitched seams of each pocket, as shown:

You should now have two continuous pieces of fabric, shaped like rectangles with pocket ears on each side.

5. With the patterned sides of the material facing in towards each other, lay the front and back panels down on top of each other and pin the left and right sides together. If you omitted the pockets, all you need to do is sew straight up and down both sides. If you have pockets, the white dotted lines below show where you should be stitching. When stitching, leave an opening along the side seams big enough for your hand to fit through comfortably (I left a 6.5" long hole).

Close-up of where to stitch:

6. Next up, the waist band. Fold over half an inch along the top and iron it down. This will tuck away the raw edges of the fabric.

Next, fold the top of the waist over again and iron. If your elastic band is 1" wide, then you should fold down about 1.3" of material. The elastic band should fit easily inside this "casing" we are making.

7. Stitch down the casing we just ironed along the bottom edge. Make sure to leave a small gap to feed the elastic band through:

8. Wrap an elastic band around your waist until it's tight enough to hold a skirt up, but still comfortable. Add one inch as an allowance for when we join the two ends together, and cut the elastic to this length. I made the mistake of making my elastic band exactly the same as my waist measurement - the resulting skirt feels a little loose and will have to be fixed. Ideally I should've made the waistband of my skirt about 2 inches more narrow than my actual waist measurement, because the elastic has good stretch.

Start feeding the elastic band through the casing. Pinning a safety pin to one end of the elastic makes it easier to feed through the narrow casing. Pin the tail end of the elastic to the casing opening so it doesn't get pulled in as well.

9. After the elastic has gone through the entire casing, securely stitch the two ends of the elastic together. Try on your skirt to make sure the waist fits like you want it to, then stitch close the casing hole.

10. The elastic band may not lie flat once inside the casing and start to twist and flip around. To prevent this from happening, you can add a stitch or two to the outside of the waistband to secure the elastic down to the fabric. Because the fabric is all scrunched and gathered, you need to use both hands to stretch the elastic out evenly, so the fabric lays smoothly when being fed through the machine.

Don't rush this part or you may end up with fabric that's gathered unevenly along the elastic waist band. Stretch a few inches of elastic out with the fabric, stitch evenly, and pause. Stretch out the next few inches, continue stitching, and pause again.

11. Try on your skirt, then hem the bottom to your desired length. Finish by ironing down all seams. If you don't have a serger, you can try a zig zag stitch along the raw edges to help avoid fraying, or just fold the edges thinly twice and stitch them down.

Voila! Finished skirt, that can be easily changed up with any color or patterned fabric to suit your tastes and the seasons. I hope to try a zippered skirt next, but for beginners, you can't beat the ease of working with elastic.

Green jacket + sheer florals (& H&M spring blazers review)

2013-04-05T09:49:00.000-04:00

H&M blouse (similar), Lefties blazer (from Spain), altered no brand slacks, Louboutin heels from eBay

Living with limited closet space, I've gotten into the habit of rotating seasonal items in and out of under-bed storage. It's always a small treat to unpack and re-discover old favorites, which this outfit is comprised entirely of. This blouse from last year is a party of all my favorite spring colors. It's cut generously with very long sleeves, but still gets plenty of wear layered and under blazers. I was so excited to find this dupe that's even topped off with a neck-tie:

Modcloth Sigh, the Lanai blouse

If you're new to this store, you can get $15 off your first order of $50+ by signing up for an account through here (referrers will receive the same credit). There's free U.S. shipping on orders over $50 and also free returns. I won't be trying this myself as I have the H&M one, but reviews indicate that it may run on the smaller side for standard S/M/L sizing, and a "blousy fit" wouldn't be bad for this style top. Another item I've been eying but already have something similar is the Eye for Ikebana floral skirt (longer 25" length may require hemming) - pricier at $69.99, but reviews say the XS fits a 24" waist perfectly.

The blazer in this outfit is an old, bargain purchase from Lefties (I was told this is like a Zara outlet) and underwent an alteration overhaul for a mere $5 (story here). I love the resulting slim fit, but the bargain aspect is evident through the material and crinkly sleeves. While at H&M dropping off my donations for their garment recycling program, I tried on a similar-colored option (also in black, bright pink, and possibly more):

The green is an inexpensive way to add a nice pop of color to spring wardrobes, and the ivory is very versatile for multi-season wear. It's a poly-twill like material, and the ivory is slightly see through (my black & white striped top shows through the sleeves and back). As with most H&M blazers, the torso and shoulders fit nice and slim but the sleeve quality and fit leave something to be desired. I picked up the ivory one for $29 and change with a 15% coupon from the garment recycling, and plan on shortening and slimming the sleeves per this tutorial (note - there is also a slit at the end of the ivory's sleeves so it may need to be hemmed to bracelet length).

Green blazer, item #086743, Ivory blazer, item #067391 - both $34.95, trying on sz 2

Old ASOS petites dress, Ferragamo Varina flats (runs narrow, 20% off w/ FANDF)*

*It's Friends & Family time at Bloomies, which now offers free return shipping on all online purchases (love that more retailers are doing this!). Use FANDF for 20% off your purchase w/ a few exclusions - possibly a chance to pick up sale Spanx, Longchamp (my durable everyday work/travel tote - Mom asked if she could have mine so I picked up another in black : ), or a classic Burberry trench.

For anyone interested in the Spanx girl shorts, I got sz S in the nude for wearing under clingier dresses. It works somewhat for minimizing tummy / butt bulges and VPL but is intended to fit much more snugly on the wearer than this pair does on me. As such, the thigh openings are a little loose so the shorts hem line shows through sometimes, but I haven't found a better option yet.

Since this blazer hits at a longer hip length, I mostly reserve it for wearing with slimming skinny pants or floor-length trousers. These pants are a ~5 year old find at a discount store with the tags cut off (I suspect the Limited or Express?), and were taken in along the waist/hips/legs. To this day, I haven't had luck finding pants that fit like this off the rack (or even have the potential to fit and drape similarly after semi-risky alterations). Any recommendations would be appreciated!

Closet favorite: Uniqueen Tweed Dress w/ Faux Leather Trim

2013-04-02T00:26:00.000-04:00

Uniqueen Laila Tweed Dress (3 sizes) c/o - use EXTRAPETITE through 5/2 for 10% off your order

Ann Taylor perfect pumps (40% off w/ APRIL40), pearls from a friend, J.Crew bag

Earlier last year, I met up with Anna of Uniqueen who was visiting town from Toronto. Uniqueen has given me some jackets that I love to pieces (see the No.5 jacket in brown (review), No. 5 jacket in white, and the Malang jacket which is a little roomy/long, yet still gets plenty of wear), but what I like most about working with them is how receptive the small retailer is to feedback and suggestions. I mentioned to Anna that I'd love to see more elegant, quality pieces that are petite-friendly, and also brought up reader feedback about inconsistency amongst sizes. She responded that they would do the best they can to monitor fit consistency (as materials for each piece are cut by hand and not machine), and also offered to manufacture a custom size for my extra petite readers.
Over the past few months, I've had the pleasure of working with Uniqueen's team to tweak this "Laila" dress and make it available in a new size XS (fits similar to H&M sz US 2 / EUR 32, and a tad smaller than American sz 00P). The end product is a classic piece that I see suitable for women of various ages, and can be worn three out of four seasons. The trim adds a tiny bit of edge but is still conservative, and can even be concealed by a collared shirt with the sleeve cuffs folded up. I've worn this a few times already to work, and nearly all the women on my floor have asked where they could find it...

Sizing and fit: This dress is available in XS, S, and M, and runs smaller than western sizing. I am wearing an XS here, and provided Uniqueen measurements for this pattern based on some BR size 00P / ASOS size 0P dresses in my closet. For reference, I am about 5 feet tall, ~92lbs with 30A bust, 24 inch waist and 32 inch hips. Since the fabric has no stretch, we left a little extra room in the hips to accommodate usage of the pockets and for comfort when sitting down. We debated on the sleeve length, and ultimately settled on "bracelet" length for a few reasons. I know not everyone is a fan of this, but I've come to like it for more arm coverage while showing off bracelets and watches. A full length sleeve would also pose issues for women with shorter arms, because the faux leather trim makes it very hard to alter.

Measurements of an XS: 15.7" (40cm) armpit to armpit, 13" (33cm) across the shoulder, 12.6" (32cm) across the waist, 17.1" (43.5cm) across the hips by the base of the pockets, 18.9" (48cm) sleeve length, and 34.6" (88cm) total length. Sleeve width 4.75" (12 cm) across when measured at the upper arm - fairly narrow. Also factor in a few millimeters for the thickness of the tweed and a layer of full lining.

As with all Uniqueen items, I can't emphasize enough to please check the measurements on their site against items in your closet. Their products come from a number of sources, so S, M, etc. could mean different measurements for each of their designs. For example, the S in their No. 5 jacket fits smaller than the same size in the Malang.
Quality & Value: When producing samples for this dress, Uniqueen sent me some material swatches to see and feel in-person. I liked this medium weight black and ivory tweed paired with a dark navy faux leather trim. The navy goes surprisingly well with the tweed, plus adds one more neutral color into the mix for easy pairings. I tested the materials to find one that doesn't wrinkle through long work days/lots of sitting, and also suggested adding functional pockets and getting rid of extraneous fringe. Four sample dresses and numerous rounds of feedback later, I feel the quality and design is fair for the price ($133 w/code EXTRAPETITE + ship). It's more expensive than the deals I normally post on here, but is an amount I'd willingly shell out at the Theory outlet for a good work piece, before factoring in alteration costs.
Shipping & Returns: Items are shipped from Korea, and in my experience arrive in about a week. The shipping cost is 10.99 USD to Canada, and 13.99 USD to most other countries (see details here). For apparel returns, customers need to contact info@myuniqueen.com within 2 days of delivery to obtain a return code, and shipping fees are non-refundable. Uniqueen mentioned that many returns are due to items fitting too small, so again please check their listed measurements against your clothes.

I'm not affiliated with this company and don't receive commissions for sales - I just had fun helping out on this and am excited to share unique, grown-up options for women who are typically "sized out" by retailers. For tweed-loving ladies who are a little taller, I suggest checking out the 2012 Malang jacket which I just can't get enough of on Cee (5'4") - see all the stylish ways she's paired it so far.

Readers - Do you own any items from Uniqueen? If so, please share your thoughts and any fit/sizing tips.

Spring Sale Reviews: LOFT & Banana Republic Petites

2013-03-31T14:53:00.001-04:00

Happy Easter to those who celebrate! There's a few sales going on this weekend, including 50% off and free shipping on all orders at LOFT with code CYBERSPRING, 40% off and free ship on all orders at Ann Taylor w/ APRIL40, and 40% off (excludes denim) at Gap w/ code GAPEGG. I haven't been inside a LOFT for quite some time, and was pleasantly surprised by the bright colors and cute prints.

LOFT floral skirt ($30 in stores), LOFT ponte shell (orange on the bottom, $18 in stores for reg sizes)

I love the vibrancy of this skirt and the weight of the material, which felt like a thick canvas. I'm trying on a 4P with the extra material pinched behind me, so unfortunately I can't gauge the fit (but in my experience, LOFT bottoms require waist alterations). I also liked the juicy pink and orange color combination and the neckline pleats of this thicker ponte shell. I could only find a regular XS at my local store, which was too boxy throughout with generous armholes.

Both items are still available in smaller petite sizes online - I ended up ordering the ponte shell in petite XXS, this box pleat blouse, and the Marisa white linen pants in my quest for white trousers without sheerness issues. I was also eying this colorblock shell with good reviews, but already own several black & white items.

LOFT jacket ($45) in xxsp, Gap legging jeans in 00p, Ferragamo Varina flats

I love my tweed jackets, but the thinner texture of this one felt flat. I tried it on along with the dress below only to check out the fit (and in the spirit of Easter). The jacket fit me well in length and not bad at the shoulders and torso, but the sleeves would need slimming.

LOFT Corded Dobby Stripe Shift Dress ($45) - trying 00P

This mod-inspired shift dress fit just as expected, with the length being on the shorter end. As with most shift styles, I would not recommend this for larger chests. I was disappointed that there were no pockets or lining (if memory serves me right) for a dress like this. If you're hankering for something in spring colors, I really like this floral print dress which looks more flattering and costs less, but was not available at my local store.

BR was also having 40% off everything yesterday, but I see it's only 30% off online. ~~This mustard yellow blazer with piping (reviewed here) is now a bargain for the quality at just $49~~ (update: excluded from this online promo), but smaller petite sizes may be hard to find at this point. It's still fully stocked in regular sizing online, with two other colors that aren't marked down as much yet (love the "angora white"). While shopping for Nick, I tried on two new arrivals but didn't feel compelled to purchase either:

Banana Republic Lattice Print Jacquard peplum top - trying on 00P

The peplum trend got a bit overdone last year, but I liked this subdued variation with a slight flared bottom. I can see this worn both with pants as well as belted over a pencil or A-line skirt. In person, the jacquard material has just a slight sheen and is very pretty. The fit was good with a small issue - the shoulder straps felt a little wide on me.

Banana Republic Striped Ponte Modern Blazer - trying on 00P

I loved the fit of this blazer from the front - the collarless design with tapering along torso made for a seamless fit, and the knit material laid smoothly and felt comfortable. I couldn't see my full back, but one possible fit issue might be the lack of a back vent. I was also disappointed by the partial lining that just covered the upper torso of the blazer. Not sure why retailers are doing that more often, especially for items that retail over $100.

Overall, an empty-handed shopping trip for me (other than the LOFT items ordered online to try), which my full closet is perfectly happy about. If you had any good sale finds this weekend, I'd love to hear about them!

Dress Reviews: Gap Floral A-Line & J.Crew Origami (in petite)

2013-03-27T00:14:00.002-04:00

Sale alert: Express is having 40% off everything (plus extra 15% off w/ code 9076 - thank you, Chloe!). If you need work pants, they offer a wide selection starting in size 00 short (runs a little big). I just loved this high-waisted ponte skirt on Kelly, and have been waiting for a sale to order it in colorblock and stripe to try. Based on how it fits her, I'm pretty sure it'll be a winner!

Gap sateen floral dress (30% off w/ GAPEGG) H&M sandals, old (similar in "citron patent")

Haven't done one of these in a while, but wanted to share quick thoughts on two dresses I tried on. I've been a fan of Gap since my teenage years, and only wish that they'd carry petite sizing in-stores too. They do offer free shipping & return shipping on all orders over $50, but my orders never come with a return label (need to go online, fill out your address, and print).

Style: I love the silhouette of this dress and details like waistband and on-seam pockets. The skirt is fuller but not overwhelming, and I can see this being flattering on ladies both with or without natural curves. My only qualm with the cut is that the armholes cut inward a bit, possibly exposing armpit flab and bra straps. In-person, the sateen material is white and smooth and the orange and yellow flowers were more fluorescent than I expected.

Material is a comfortable, slightly stretchy 97% cotton, 3% spandex and is lined in the torso only. Care tag says machine wash cold.

Fit: I ordered a 0P to try on, and would say it runs small for Gap and fits similarly to a 00P at AT/LOFT. I can pinch about an inch of extra material at the waist, but not necessarily enough to require alterations (a belt also helps). Measurements of a 0P: 15" across the bust, 13" across the waist, 13" from top to the top of the waistband, 1.25" wide waistband, 32.75" total length, 14.5" wide across the bottom hem of the skirt.

Verdict: Unfortunately, most of my time is spent at work and I had trouble coming up with conservative pairings given the colors in this dress. It looked nice with a bright yellow blazer, but I couldn't find much else in my current closet to wear with it as a cover-up. The fit was flattering and the price with coupon is fair - no keep for this one, if Gap makes the same dress again in navy stripes or a more versatile print, I'll be all over it.

Next up is a J.Crew dress that I tried on a few times over the years....

J.Crew Origami Dress (pink on sale, plus 25% off $150+ w/ LOVEJCREW), Louboutin pumps

Style: If you can fit J.Crew sizing, they have some good work basics in lightweight, lined 100% wool. I have enough basics, but was drawn to the folding detail on the torso of this dress. It was underwhelming on me in-person, but would probably look better on someone who can fill it out.

Fit: Trying on a 00 petite, which was loose throughout especially in the chest and hips (waist measures the same as the Gap dress in 0P). I've tried on several dresses from J.Crew's petite line over the years and they tend to fit similarly. I did keep one a while back and alterations were $40-50, so it could be worth it if you buy during a sale.

With this particular design, the biggest problem for me was the chest gapping that exposed everything within to taller passerbys, and would not be easy to alter given the fold design and sleeves. The length was also short for work when sitting down. This is odd, because I am already on the shorter end of the spectrum that petite lines are designed for (technically women 5'4" and under), and this dress looks to be knee-length on the model (which I like). I used to always go for 2" above the knees and have come to realize that a longer length can be more elegant and elongating - I sadly regret getting some pieces hemmed so hastily in the past.

Measurements of a 00p: 16" across chest, 13" across the waist, 18" across the hips, approximately 31" total length.

Verdict: Got this for a sizable discount, but returned due to the fit issues mentioned.

Readers - Have you tried either of these dresses, or other items from Gap or J.Crew's petite line? If so, I'd love to hear your thoughts.

Cross-seasonal baroque: Printed blouse + ivory bell skirt

2013-03-24T21:32:00.001-04:00

Blouse c/o Grace Stars (use code ep20 for 20% off; free shipping within Canada)
Louboutin simple 85 pumps, thrifted wool skirt (also worn here), vintage ring from eBay

Colorful printed pieces are great for getting dressed in a rush, as you can mindlessly choose one color in the pattern to highlight with similar-colored solids. I loved the baroque print on this top from Grace Stars with a dark navy backdrop, rustic gold "chains," and splashes of bright blue, marigold, and fuchsia. I wore this outfit to dinner during an unseasonably warm day this month, which sadly has not repeated itself.

I can see this with dark slacks in the winter, and either a vibrant color or fresh white for fall or spring.

Left: J.Crew No. 2 wool pencil skirt in petite (altered), Right: J.Crew wool cafe capris (shrunken)
Both on clearance and get 25% off $150+ w/ code LOVEJCREW

This top is only available in one size (XS/S), and fits similarly to an H&M size 4/ European size 34. Measurements are: 17" across the chest, 12" across the shoulders when measured at the seams (14" including the sleeve puffs), 22.5" sleeve length, and 29" total length (tunic length). The material feels chiffon-like and is lightweight 100% polyester, with the torso lined in a black material.
The XS/S is a casual fit on me, unaltered, and I like that it doesn't billow out too much when tucked in. I wasn't a fan of the embroidered high collar, and have been wearing this top with the collar folded down inside. The only sewing alteration performed was on the sleeves. I removed the elastic from the sleeve openings, slimmed them both about an inch, and hemmed the length to hit right below my wristbone:

Elastic ---- > Elastic undone (not yet hemmed)

Readers - Are you a fan of baroque prints? It's something my grandmother would wear, but I love the intricacy and the historical influence.

Spring Under $50: Printed dresses, bright maxis & white shift

2013-03-21T23:23:00.003-04:00

Left & right: Old Navy printed wrap dresses, Center: Gap sateen dress w/pocket

The past two months flew by for me with lots of work and a record light $20 in shopping, but I’ve been eagerly eying spring arrivals. I’m a little hesitant to share pieces that I’ve never tried on before, as all too often, things look promising online but are disappointing in-person. Unfortunately, almost all of these items are online-only, so your thoughts would be greatly appreciated if you've tried any of them!

1) Old Navy wrap dress, comes in 4 color/print choices in extended sizing. I wore their wrap dress last year quite a bit (several complimenters thought it was DVF), and look forward to breaking it out again. The sleeves on this year’s version look more classic (last year’s were poofy and mid-length) and they made petite sizing available. I got a regular XS last year and had to perform these alterations, but here's how the unaltered dress fit on my 5’2” mom. I’m hopeful the petite version will fit ladies my size right off the rack, but the length might then be short for work.

2) Gap Sateen dress w/pockets (25% off w/GAP25, or 30% off for cardmembers through 3/24 w/ 30GCSTYLE. Thanks Vicky!) - The last time I tried a dress from Gap petites, it was sadly shapeless and roomy. I finally ordered this one after reading reviews about it running small, and will report back once it arrives.

ON maxi, Mossimo maxi, Labworks white shift, Mossimo navy & white ponte pencil skirt

*From my past experience, Target’s petite XS runs similar to a Petite 0-2 from AT/LOFT/BR.*

3 & 4) This is veering straight into summer territory, but I'm always on the lookout for a flattering maxi dress. The Old Navy option (lots of color choices) has rave reviews, and can be easily taken up by the straps if the neckline is too low and/or length is too long. I also love the zesty color of the Mossimo one. The shape by itself isn’t very defined, but a waist-cinching belt will fix that.

5) Labworks white shift dress with fun yellow trim – I love a crisp white dress for warm weather, and the sale price of this is good for anyone who is stain-prone. The simple design can be dressed down with a denim jacket and flats, and easily taken up a notch with colorful statement jewelry and strappy heels.

6) This Mossimo striped skirt (3 color choices) looks flattering on the model and has a 5-star review so far. Ponte is one of my favorite materials for comfortable work wear, but I can't speak to the quality or weight of this one as I haven't tried it.

Coffee Shop cotton jacket, Coffee Shop contrast piping trench

I’m not in need of another short jacket, but wanted to share a recommendation by a reader, Alexis B. (thanks, Alexis!). For anyone who is interested in a military-style jacket, this one is 100% cotton, has all the basic features plus roll-up sleeve tabs, and comes in petite sizing. While browsing this line that I’ve never heard of before, I also liked the short belted trench (again, thumbs up for 100% cotton) with piping that's a tiny bit over the $50 mark.

Lastly, I wanted to share these DIY clutch photos that Kelly D. and Celia C. posted to my Facebook. How adorable is the striped lining in Kelly's bag, and how professional does Celia's look? Thank you ladies both for sharing - I am so impressed by your skills!

Tutorial Preview: DIY A-Line Skirt w/ Pockets

2013-03-20T23:29:00.000-04:00

Ann Taylor blouse, DIY skirt (tutorial coming soon), J.Crew Factory belt, H&M blazer

J.Crew Mona pumps (only cap toe colors left - use LOVEJCREW for 25% off $150+), Prada tote

A few weeks ago, I saw a swatch of fabric posted by the talented SewPetiteGal, and immediately caught equestrian print fever. A big thank you to my friend Ping (another DIY extraordinaire) who scored the last bits of the material for me at Fabrix for $3 / yard. I haven't made clothes from scratch in years, and wanted to re-learn by starting as simple as possible. I know a proper zipper looks best on a skirt, but you can't beat the ease of an elastic waistband. I've heard from many of you who are interested in trying sewing (or have already started lessons!), and thought this would be a great beginner's project to share.

I'm not entirely pleased with the results or with this outfit, but one of the best things about sewing is that you can tweak everything to your own preferences and learn from mistakes. Self-notes for next time: try a heavier, less wrinkle-prone fabric, blind hem the bottom, and pair full skirts with more fitted tops. And eventually, attempt to learn zipper insertion. I'm already eying fun printed fabrics in more season-appropriate colors for skirt # 2.

Please check back next week for a tutorial on the basic process for this easy skirt, which you can tailor to any length or fullness, and of course use any fabric that you want. And for anyone who tried marking this DIY clutch, I'd absolutely love to see any photos of your creations via Facebook or Twitter!

From Work to Weekend: Banana Republic Mad Men Collection

2013-03-18T00:31:00.000-04:00

Me: Banana Republic dress c/o, Louboutin pumps, Burberry trench (similar), AT clutch

Nick: Banana Republic blazer, pants and tie c/o, Cole Haan shoes, DIY pocket square

When Banana Republic asked me to style my favorite piece from their Mad Men collection, this printed silk shirt dress was an easy choice. The colors are vibrant without being too retro, and I saw it as a great candidate for serving double duty as a blouse. Inspired by Khatu's stylish husband, I also encouraged my boyfriend to take a break from behind the camera and join me for this post. Nick's always been a fan of slim cut, tailored pieces, thus gravitated towards this subtle plaid wool suit and silk skinny tie.

These photos were taken by our friend Dave Salafia, who is a talented (and rather resourceful with limited spaces) Boston-based photographer. I've admired his work and was excited to be his subjects. A big thank you also goes to our friend Matteo, who let us take advantage of all the nooks and crannies in his beautiful loft.

Me: J.Crew wool mini (altered), Coach court bag & no-brand shoe clips from eBay, AT pumps

Nick: H&M chambray shirt, Lands End Canvas chino pants, Clarks desert Mali boots

We decided to show our favorite pieces styled for a more formal workplace, as well as for a weekend date. Nick dressed down his blazer by swapping out suit pants for comfy chinos, and replacing the white button-up with casual chambray. For me, I still wanted to let the silk print shine. I paired the dress with a soft ivory mini, and added personalized touches using beloved pre-owned finds.

If anyone is interested in this dress, I can review the fit and show un-styled photos later this week. I am wearing a 00P here with no alterations. The dress is shift style, cut straight up and down with a self-tie belt that you can use to play around with the length. The natural length hits right above my knees (rode up a bit in the sitting photos), and I have it tucked into some shapewear when paired with the mini. The colors of this dress in-person are a coral orangey-red, true navy, and a very light taupe.

Photo Credit: Dave Salafia

Readers - Did you pick up any pieces from this season's Mad Men collection?

Extra Petite x Garment Recycling with H&M

2013-03-14T11:09:00.001-04:00

As longtime readers know, H&M is one of my favorite places to shop for petite-friendly work and casual wear. They asked me to share about their global garment recycling effort, focused on not letting fashion go to waste. As mentioned in the video, all H&M stores internationally now offer garment collection recycling services - anyone can bring up to 2 bags of clothing per day and get a 15% off one item voucher per bag donated. And if you bring in unwanted clothes before March 31st, you'll receive 15% off your entire purchase and a chance to win multiple prizes. I usually just discard items that are damaged or falling apart, so am happy to hear that garments of any condition are accepted.

Please let me know if you have any questions from the video, or find out more details on www.HMconscious.com. If you end up participating, I'd love to hear about it! Please include #LongLiveFashion when sharing via Twitter or Instagram.

Disclosure: This post was sponsored by H&M for Style Coalition.

Simplified DIY clutch bag tutorial (foldover style optional)

2013-03-10T23:28:00.002-04:00

Per your requests, here are the steps I took to make the clutch from this post. Please note that I made a very simple version, so the end product is not lined (I plan on adding lining later, but keep the contents in a large ziploc baggie for now) and is not professional quality.

Supplies:
- Material for the clutch (leather, faux leather, cotton, canvas, etc). Determine what size clutch you want and add approximately 0.5" to each side for the seam allowance. You will need either two pieces of material that size, or one long piece. If you want a foldover style clutch, make sure add extra length to the height for folding down. In this tutorial, I am using a 12" x 20" piece of material which yielded an 11" x 7" clutch when folded.

A note on materials - I ordered the cheetah print hair on leather from here (requested a custom size). It was listed as 1.3 mm thick, however my measurements indicated at least 2 mm thick, which I feel is too much for a standard machine needle to handle. For my red clutch shown here, I ordered "ostritch" embossed leather from the same store. That material was accurately listed at 1.2 mm thick, and was fairly easy to work with using my machine.

- A sturdy zipper. Try to find one that is the same width of your material. I got a 12" metal zipper also via eBay.

I decided to do a "fully exposed" zipper and attach it to the outer of the material, because the leather was too stiff to bend using the proper method. Of course you can add a strip of thinner material to connect the two like many professional clutches, but I decided that this shortcut didn't look half bad.

Step 1. Pin one edge of the zipper to the outer of your clutch material. From the backside, make sure the leather edge won't interfere with the zipper pull. You can test the zipper after you finish pinning along where the stitches will be.

2. Stitch along the pinned line. Make sure to back-stitch at the beginning and the end to secure the stitches. Don't forget to remove the pins as your needle approaches!
As this leather was 2mm thick and I only had a standard duty needle, I hand-turned the sewing machine wheel to not risk breaking my needle. I believe you can do this with the machine turned off. I am a very bad hand-sewer, so I opted for this method to get evenly-spaced stitches (as shown in the photo, I had to switch my "foot" because the standard one interfered with the metal zipper). If you are sewing by hand, maybe use a thimble to assist with getting the needle through thicker materials.

Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the other half of the zipper.
3. Turn the material inside-out and mark lines for the side seams. Stitch along the marked lines, and back-stitch once or twice at the edges for durability. If you started with two pieces of material instead of one long one, you'll need to stitch together the bottom as well.

Closeup - stitch the side seams all the way to the edge of the zipper, making sure not to hit any metal parts and break your needle. I opened up the zipper a little bit before "sealing" the last of the three edges.

4. Snip the bottom corners (may not be necessary for thin materials or fabrics). Get fairly close to your stitched line without cutting any of the stitches. For corners on thicker/stiffer materials, this helps keep the corner sharp after it is turned rightside-out.

5. Open up the zipper and turn the entire bag rightside-out. For stiffer materials, press firmly down on the edges to flatten them, and use a small, sharp tool (ie. pen, pointy chopstick) to help poke out the corners. For fabric, use an iron.

All done! After making this, I found a very thorough tutorial for a DIY fabric clutch/pouch with lining (just skip the felt padding if you're using thicker materials) and zipper here. I suggest practicing first using fabric, canvas, or another thinner material before moving on to leather.

Readers - Please share any other tutorials for bags or your own DIY tips! And if any of you end up trying this, I would love to see a photo via Facebook or Twitter!

Transitional Spring: Camel, silk blouse + Theory dot dress

2013-03-07T21:45:00.001-05:00

J.Crew schoolboy blazer (now 50% off), Theory dress thanks to Cee, thrifted silk blouse

Prada Saffiano bag, Ann Taylor pumps, earrings from eBay, Talbots navy tights (similar for less)

Despite yet another snowstorm raging on outside, I've just about had enough with winter workwear and heavy layers. I've been slowly transitioning to lighter fabrics and fun prints, like this silk dot dress courtesy of the stylish & thoughtful Cee. She mentioned that the waist of this dress was high for her 5'4" frame (which works out nicely for someone several inches shorter!), and asked if I wanted dibs before it got donated. I've always loved this dress on Cee (here and here), and was more than happy to give it a new home.

Similar dress options from left to right: (1) Anne Klein, (2) Forever21, (3) Target, and (4) Taylor:

As it still averages a brr-worthy 30-40 degrees here, I layered up both under and over the delicate silk. I used an ivory collared blouse to accentuate the soft spots, and my trusty neutral blazer + bag to pull the look together. This thrifted blouse is several sizes too big and waiting in my alterations queue, so the fitted blazer also served to conceal that fact. Worry not, there was also a wool coat over all of this.

Not sure how I went so many winters without navy tights...but once I got my hands on a pair, I couldn't put them down (also shown here). They're a less-harsh alternative to black, have a preppy vibe, and go surprisingly well with most colors. Just make sure the shade is a darker navy rather than a lighter blue. Mine are from Talbots and lasted about 10 wears before getting some pulls. Forever21 also has a dark navy option (& 8 other colors) that is $6.80 with very good reviews.

Readers - Are you a fan of navy tights? Please share any recommendations for a good quality, dark blue option : )

Borrowed from the boys - Zara navy wool blazer + Manolo bows

2013-03-03T20:45:00.003-05:00

Zara boys jacket sz 11-12 (altered, see below), thrifted skirt, DIY pocket square borrowed from Nick

Manolo Blahnik pumps (similar), Talbots navy tights (similar for under $7), H&M scarf + gloves

When shopping, I tend to poke around in the girls department, but rarely if ever venture into the boys. Little girls' stuff is already iffy-proportioned for grown women, so I imagine boys clothing to be even further "off." Not to mention the effort of having to fabricate a "nephew" or "brother" that you're shopping for when clingy sales associates keep asking questions. However, after Kelly's post on shopping for boys blazers and her success with getting one tailored beautifully (see before and after), my eyes were opened up to this world of little jackets with slightly longer lengths and chest slots for fun pocket squares.

Coach court bag (similar on eBay, current year's version) and vintage earrings (similar on eBay)

It would only make sense that I was with the boys blazermaster herself when I came across this heavier one (marketed as a jacket) in Zara's boys department. It had endured rounds upon rounds of markdowns, and was 75% off at $19.90. I was skeptical about the wool blend quality but Kelly wasted no time in grabbing a firm fistful of the material. She released it after a few moments, and commented on how the negligible creasing left behind indicated that it was fair quality for wool.

I tried on size 11-12 and really liked the warmth, the classic true navy color, the fit of the shoulders, and the casual longer length (perfect for wearing with skinny bottoms or mini skirts). However, the torso and sleeves needed to be re-shaped for a woman's figure. Work has had me so pressed for free time that I didn't want to add to the now daunting alterations pile (and had little faith in my DIY skills) ...but eventually gave in to the encouragement of my trusty shopping companions (had the pleasure of Wendy visiting too!).

After further evaluation in front of my mirror at home, I decided to:
1) Slim sleeves slightly (couldn't slim too much because I wasn't changing the armholes)
2) Shorten sleeves slightly
3) Take-in along the back seams to add shape to the torso

I followed the steps in this old tutorial for alterations 1 & 2, and did the following for 3:

Using fabric chalk, I marked where I would like the torso of this blazer to taper in the most (around my lower waist). I then opened up the lining of the blazer and transferred my markings to the inside of the wool material.
I drew out the new seams with chalk, keeping them smoothly curved and nipping in the most where I had marked the lower waistline. I made sure not to nip in too much to keep consistent with the "casual" style, but just enough so that it'd be evident there's a female under the garment. Please note; the photo below shows markings on the exterior of the jacket for demonstrative purposes only - the chalk markings and stitches are taking place on the inside of the jacket, behind the lining:

End result - boxy cut replaced by gentle curvature:

And to balance out the boyishness of this jacket, I added a dose of big bows for good measure.

On a related kids clothing note, I popped into Gap today and tried on some navy and white overload from the girls section (see my Instagram). The sweaters were too wide/boxy, but their canvas dot shorts were sturdy quality and $17 with code SPRINGAIR. I am trying sz 12 reg and it was a snug fit, so someone my size could probably factor in dryer shrinkage and go up to 14 (or 12 plus? Not sure how plus compares to regular). As with most kids' bottoms, I would not recommend these for anyone with curves in the hips or bum. The dot skirt with bow was cute in theory, but in my opinion too childish for someone my age. I am trying size 10/L because 12/XL wasn't available, and have the kiddy tulle part folded up (it's attached to the lining and should be easily removable). The elastic waist fit fine, but the short length combined with poofiness makes it prime for a windy day wardrobe malfunction.

Readers - Have you ever shopped in the boys or mens department? I'd love to hear about your finds and experiences!

Asos Banded Dress Review (Herve Leger Look for Less)

2013-02-27T01:48:00.001-05:00

Off-Shoulder Midi Dress c/o ASOS (3 colors), Valentino heels, DIY clutch (tutorial coming soon)

I’ve received a few questions about this ASOS dress, and wanted to share some quick thoughts...

Length: This is labeled as a "midi" dress, despite being shown to hit above the model's knees. I used to alter my skirts / dresses to 2 inches above the knees without a second thought, but lately have been gravitating towards a longer hemline. I especially like them with either higher-waisted items (to visually lengthen the leg line), or with fitted pieces (to add some conservatism - ie. love this printed option).

For this dress, I experimented with all sorts of lengths before deciding on right at the knees (about 1" shorter than option #2 below). Below the knee was a little truncating even with my highest heels, and above the knee seemed too casual. I used this old formula as a guide, and chose the length that showed equal parts skirt and lower leg (lengthened 4 inches here by nude pumps).

Material & Design: Although the banded look of this ASOS dress is presumably modeled after Herve Leger bandage dresses, I imagine that the material weight and quality does not compare (must also factor in that it's a fraction of the price)...
I have not tried any Herve Leger dresses personally, but from what I hear, the banded material is thick and sturdy. This supposedly aids in the "compression" effect (like built-in shapewear) for holding in trouble areas and enhancing curves. The poly/elastane blend material of the ASOS is thin and slightly see-through if you wear contrasting underwear. However, when pulled taut like it is here with no zipper, it nevertheless does have some compression and curve-enhancing effects.
Sizing & Fit: The dress is labeled as a “bodycon” style, which implies a very tight intended fit. I’m not quite used to wearing skin-tight items, therefore wavered between two sizes for the longest time. I usually wear between US1 and US2 for ASOS, but debated between US2 and US 4 for this dress. Here were some of the differences (for reference, I'm about 5 feet tall and 92 lbs):

US 2– Very fitted throughout and had to squirm to get it on (*tip – put this dress on by stepping into it and pulling up, versus pulling it down over your head. I learned this the hard way and had to thrash around with my shoulders stuck. If you have shapewear bottoms, that will help the dress slide on more easily). The snug all-around fit created some cleavage and a slight hourglass shape for a body with minimal natural curves. In the 1st photo of this post, I am trying on the size US 2 with the hem folded up.

Left: US 4 vs. Right: US 2

US 4 – Fitted but not like a second skin. Did not “compress” the body like the size 2, which made me feel more at ease, but on the other hand lost some of the intended bodycon effect. It gave me less of a “lift" in the bust, pretty much no cleavage, and less waist/hip definition. The shoulder straps were also too long and kept slipping down.

Left: US 4 vs. Right: US 2

Final choice: After going back and forth a few too many times, I ended up sizing up to the US 4 and performing the following alterations:

1. Shortened the skirt length
2. Tapered the skirt for a more pencil-shaped silhouette
3. Took in the waist
4. Shortened the shoulder straps

Since the dress is unlined, the alterations were not complicated but did take me some time. The end result is fitted with less clingy-ness at the bum (my main reason for sizing up), but the bosom-enhancing effects of a smaller size were lost. If you don't mind a very snug silhouette, I suggest going with your usual size and rocking it with confidence : )

Readers - What is your preferred length for a dress like this? Below, at, or above the knee?

Winter work: Mina + Olya sculpted dress + wooden details

2013-02-24T15:08:00.000-05:00

Sculpted wool dress thanks to Mina + Olya (DIY altered), thrifted silk blouse, Burberry coat, YSL heels (similar)

Vintage Hermes belt thanks to LXR & Co (invite link, use EXPET20FAN for a $20 credit), Goyard Marquises tote

A few months back, I was reading Krystal's blog and saw several features on San Francisco-based designers Mina + Olya. Curious, I hopped on over to their site and ended up spending a large chunk of time reading about their story and perusing the collections.

Mina and Olya are two friends who left their financial consulting careers to start a fashion line, which is designed and made in the United States using organic and sustainable materials. Their focus on sustainability and supporting domestic affects nearly every part of the business, from fabrics down to the web designer and bank that they use. I recall reading somewhere that they were unsatisfied with the offerings available for the corporate woman, and wanted to create high-end options that were edgier yet still classic. I felt that the driving values behind M+O would resonate with many women who want something unique for work (and after work), while supporting a small businesses and other respectable causes.

As someone who also works in financial services but enjoys fashion, I really admired M+O for taking a leap of faith to do what they're passionate about. I wrote them a note expressing that and wishing them the best on their journey. I also mentioned that their line appears to be for a taller figure, and to please consider making petite proportions as well in the future (especially for items like their green wool dress). The ladies responded warmly and asked about my mailing address for a little holiday something. I assumed it was for a Christmas card, so imagine my surprise when a green wool dress showed up in my mailbox.

Swiss dot tights from Elle (similar w/ free ship)

As appreciative as I was of M+O's generosity, this dress was definitely designed for someone taller than myself. I was ready to send back their kind gift, before deciding that I loved it enough to try and do the alterations myself. I figured I could at least share this brand I admire with taller readers and those based in SF, and also show shorter ladies examples of alterations needed to adjust regular-sized garments for a petite figure.

In person, I was very impressed by the quality and attention to detail of this dress. The wool was thick, warm, and fully lined, the pleats and sculpting at the hips were secured with knotted hand stitches, and the bottom hem was shaped with a structured mesh layer. I tried to keep all of the original design elements intact and adjust only the proportions:

One of the biggest fashion myths is that shorter women only need a hem job with regular-sized garments. As I've learned through experience - it's a matter of overall proportions that involves attention not only to length, but also the waistline, bust placement, armholes, and more (ie. see lapel size alterations for this coat). For this dress, I raised the waistline, slightly adjusted the bust darts, slimmed the sleeves and armholes, and shortened the length and sleeves. Luckily, the shoulders of a size 2 were already a good fit. I love the end result, and envision this is how the dress would've looked off-the-rack on a taller figure.

To further accentuate the waistline, I chose a banded belt that is a new addition to my collection. I've shared before about LXR & Co (disclosure - members receive a $25 credit for invited friends who make a purchase; use code EXPET20FAN for a $20 credit), which holds daily online sales of vintage designer items. Last year, I received a gift card for something to feature in an outfit post. Despite the tempting daily eye candy, I waited for a wishlist item to come along that I'd be just as likely to purchase with my own money. It was worth the wait, as I couldn't believe my eyes when I saw this belt in a recent sale. I had lost an auction many moons ago for a belt in the same style and size, due to driving into a patch of land devoid of wireless reception (gotta love Western MA). I frequently wear my Hermes belts from Nick, and wanted another option with the same clean, waist-cinching style but no logo and a thicker strap.

Hermes horsebit buckle belt w/ 32mm wide black to brown strap, sz 65, circa 1996

Since Hermes belts are frequently counterfeited, I had doubts of authenticity when bidding on auction sites. LXR&Co guarantees the authenticity and stated condition of their items, so I felt more confident going through them for a piece like this. After being duped by a Celine belt knockoff recently (via eBay), I wanted to be extra sure. I asked their customer service several questions about this belt, to which an Hermes specialist provided prompt and detailed responses. Readers - If any of you have made a purchase through LXR & Co, I would love to hear about your experiences.