Extra Petite

Cantonese faves: Ginger scallion lobster pasta & zong zi recipes

2013-06-16T23:05:00.001-04:00

Hot plate of fresh zong zi, DIY apron made over a decade ago for Mom

When I was a teen, my mom often lamented that her Cantonese cooking legacy was coming to an end with my generation. I did plenty of eating but regrettably no cooking! Each time we visit home now, I make sure to request my favorites and take plenty of notes. I love experiencing different cultures through food, and would love to be able to cook my childhood favorites for my own kids. Per some of your requests, today I am sharing recipes for two dishes that always hit the spot, and can be easily modified to suit varying tastes.

Zong zi (joong): Pictured above - sticky rice mixed with goodies, wrapped in bamboo leaves. The zong are boiled gently for 3+ hours, resulting in a heavenly melding of flavors inside. The first bite of one hot out of the pot with a touch of soy sauce = blissful. My mom often reminisces about buying these as a kid for breakfast, using saved pennies at street-side vendors. I can't eat these store-bought (usually skimpy on fillings and not cooked long enough) anymore after having ones home made with love. Zong require a lot of prep and wrapping labor, but you can make extra and freeze (after boiling) for weeks of enjoyment or gifting to friends.

Ginger scallion lobster over noodles: Living in New England, summertime means eating so much lobster that I'm afraid I'll turn into one. Fresh ones are yummy simply boiled whole, but my all-time favorite way has to be stir-fried and served over noodles to sop up the sauce. I initially tried this back in Canton, and was a little too excited to discover the noodles underneath. The lobster is first cut into pieces, which allows the flavors to get right to the meat, plus eliminates the need for messy claw cracking at the table.

Recipes (many of these ingredients may need to be found at a larger Asian grocery store)

1. Zong Zi / Joong / Sticky rice dumplings:
Different provinces have varied filling preferences (some sweet, some savory). For traditional Cantonese savory style per my mom, I've noted the key ingredients below and also listed some optionals. If you're vegetarian, I've heard that simple mung bean and shiitake mushrooms mixed into the rice can be yummy.

(Ratios / quantities are very approximate to make ~20 zong zi)
- 40 dried bamboo leaves*, plus a few extras in case any of them rip
- 2 lbs of white glutinous rice* (about 4.5 cups)
- drizzle of cooking oil
- 1.5 lbs pork belly (or pork butt if you don't like the fatty part, but I can't imagine why!)
- Five Spice Powder (in the salt/pepper aisle at the Asian grocery) for the pork
- salt to taste
- 20 dried shiitake mushrooms
- Handful of tiny dried shrimp ("xia mi"), rinsed
- 1 package peeled split mung bean*
- Cooking string to tie the zong
- Soy sauce for eating with cooked zong

*Packaging for the rice, mung beans, and dried leaves may look similar to these

Optional (the more, the merrier!):
- soaked peanuts
- shallots- salted egg yolks
- sliced Chinese sausage
- if you don't like pork, possibly substitute marinated chicken (use boneless leg/thigh meat)

One day prior:
1) Rinse the rice and dried mushrooms. Soak them overnight in their own respective bowls.
2) Slice the pork into 1" pieces. Lightly coat the pieces in a bowl with sprinklings of 5 spice powder and salt, or, you can use ~3 tablespoons of soy sauce, 1 tsp Shaoxing cooking wine, and 1 tsp sugar. I've used the latter soy marinade after reading a compilation of online recipes, but my mom insists on the former dry seasoning.

The day of (edit: made some corrections here per Mom):
1) Rinse and soak mung beans for at least 3 hours before use.
2) Boil bamboo leaves until softened (about 5 minutes), and rinse.
3) Drain soaked rice, mushrooms, and mung beans. Slice each mushroom into 2-3 pieces. Mix drained rice with the dried shrimp, about 2 teaspoons of salt, and 3 tablespoons of oil.

Wrapping & cooking:
1) Start with two leaves, shiny side up (this will be the side touching the rice & fillings), half overlapping.
2) With one hand holding each side of the leaves, fold both ends up and criss-cross at the center, so that the middle of the leaves form a cone. The tightness of the pointy cone tip is key to avoid leakage. Hold the cone in one hand using a good grip, not to let go until the folding is done.
3) Fill cones, starting and ending with the rice. I like to encase the pork with a few spoonfuls of mung bean, and use several shitake pieces per zong. Try to use the filling evenly, but if worse comes to worst you'll just have either plainer or super-packed w/ goodies zong towards the end.

Little brother Schuyler only likes pizza & burgers, tsk tsk...he doesn't appreciate Chinese food just yet!

4) Fold down the leaves as shown above to seal your zong. It doesn't need to be pretty - as long as the rice grains can be contained securely inside. The hand holding the cone also serves to grip folded leaves in place. Use your other hand (and possibly teeth for leverage) to tightly tie a string, first left-right and then top-down, around the leaf packet.

Zong-making is a family activity. Over the years, Nick has become an efficient wrapper of various Asian goodies.

5) Place into a large pot (or 2) and cover with water. Bring to a boil and then turn down to a simmer (lower, but still boiling) for at least 3 hours. You may need to add hot water to ensure that all of the zong are fully covered.

After boiling, take one out to taste with a dash of soy sauce. The sticky rice should be nice and glutinous, almost becoming one with the smooth mung bean (now paste-like) and pork. If this is not the case, boil the other ones for a little longer. A main difference between these and nuo mi ji/lo mai gai (the sticky rice packets at dim sum), is that zong are boiled for hours and those are quickly steamed.

2. Chinese-style lobster over noodles:
The traditional Cantonese recipe requires coating the lobster pieces and frying first - my mom is now health-conscious and avoids this step, and the outcome is just fine. She suggests sautéing in a pan with a lid, so the steam trapped inside can help the lobster cook evenly without getting tough.

- Ratios below are for ~1.5 lbs of lobster (one small one or half a biggie), chopped into segments
- oil for cooking
- 1.5 inch hunk of ginger, peeled and thinly julienned
- 4 stalks of scallions, julienned and separated into white and green parts (I loove scallions and always use a little extra for garnish)
- 1 tablespoon soy sauce
- 1.5 tablespoons Shaoxing cooking wine or sherry
- 3/4 cup either water or chicken broth
- 2 teaspoons cornstarch
- salt and Chinese white pepper to taste
- 1/3 pound of linguini or noodles of your choice

This recipe is super simple if you can find someone else cut the live lobster for you. I found out most American grocery stores don't offer this service (guessing Asian ones won't have a problem), but did luck out with a nice guy behind the counter willing to take on the task. Have the tail cut into 3 pieces, and claws and knuckles separated and "cracked" with a mallet for easier de-shelling later on. If doing this at home, you can use a rubber mallet on top of a knife for cracking and clean crustacean segmenting. If you are too squeamish to do this with a live lobster (as I would be), you can try working with just lobster tails.

If your lobster was chopped in-store, rinse each piece thoroughly upon getting home. Separate the little legs and body from the head, and cut body into segments. Try to have similar-sized pieces to aid in even cooking. The "brain-like" stuff in the body is the liver, which I personally like and keep, but know most ppl get grossed-out by. Season the exposed meat of the lobster with a little salt and white pepper.

To cook:
1) Boil noodles per the package directions and drain (it's ok to leave a little pasta water to help lessen the sticking). Pour into a large plate.
2) Heat your frying pan w/ lid over medium-high heat. Coat bottom lightly with oil.
3) Drop in lobster pieces, and flip over after the color changes to red on one side. Add in ginger, the white parts of scallions, soy sauce, and wine. Sauté together for about two minutes.
4) Combine 1/4 cup water or chicken broth with the cornstarch until well-mixed, and set aside. This will be a thickener for the sauce, to be poured in near the end. Pour the other 1/2 cup of water or chicken broth in all around the pan, stir, and close the lid.
5) Let simmer for a few minutes with lid shut, then check the lobster. The lobster is done when the centers are white and meaty instead of grey and "gummy." Do not overcook!
6) When the lobster is almost done, pour in the reserved liquid & cornstarch mixture and stir on medium heat until the sauce thickens. Add the green parts of the scallions and sauté quickly. Taste the sauce - season with salt and white pepper if it's lacking, or dilute if necessary. Good lobster doesn't need much seasoning, and the fragrant ginger & scallions usually carry this dish. If the sauce doesn't thicken enough for your liking, mix a little more cornstarch into a bit of cold liquid, then pour in (do not sprinkle powdery starch directly into the pan or it will get clumpy) and taste again. Remove from heat and serve hot over the bed of noodles.

My mom & I each made our own variation using half of a 3-pounder, which made for a very happy & full dad this Father's day. Her dish used pretty much the same ingredients, except chopped fermented black beans and garlic instead of the ginger - delish!

I'd love to hear your personal variations on these dishes, or if you end up trying either of the recipes!

Sewing with lining: Convertible Fit & Flare Striped "Dress"

2013-06-13T23:28:00.003-04:00

DIY top + skirt, Ann Taylor sandals (this year's version - 40% off), Warby Parker Evelyn sunglasses c/o

J.Crew bag (30% off sale w/ SUMMERTIME), Kate Spade belt thanks to Wendy

When I first spotted this classic striped material at JoAnn’s for $10 a yard (armed w/ coupon), I yanked it out with joy, then scratched my head for about 15 minutes debating what to make with it. A dress would be adorable (looved SPG's project), but a skirt might be more versatile. A skirt would be easier, whereas a dress would require a zipper and lining (eek). I ended up settling on a skirt and bought 1.5 yards of material.

90% of the way into skirt making, I realized I had sizeable scraps of fabric left over. I pinned them together into a makeshift bodice, fell in love with the combined look, and didn't hesitate to switch gears into dress mode. From there, more waves of indecisiveness resulted in the dress evolving towards a two-piece set, and later came the idea to add a peplum hem to the top. When both pieces are worn together as a "dress," the peplum tucks nicely underneath the fuller skirt.

I'm a big fan of the "fit & flare" silhouette that's been plentiful in stores. The fitted torso combined with a fuller skirt is flattering on many body types, if the proportions are right. My challenge when shopping was waistline placement and skirt volume - for shorter ladies, the waist may need to be a little higher (it's actually a little too high in my photos) to balance out a full skirt, and for those with smaller frames, a too-poofy skirt can easily edge into kiddy territory.

Shop Similar:
1) For ladies who are a little taller (although the bodice looks short, so perhaps petite women can pull it off with a simple hem job), a beautiful WHBM option in sizes 00 - 16 regular on sale for over 50% off. I can tell from the video that the fabric has a good weight to it.
2) Forever21 version under $25 - looks like a less structured knit. Reviews say length is good for petites.
3) LOFT strappy version (now 40% off) available in extended petite sizing and regular
4) Modcloth similar style skirt w/ elastic waist, and peplum top - both labeled as "runs small."

For this skirt, I started off by following steps 1-5 of this elastic-waist skirt tutorial. I then made the front half of the skirt per SGP's non-elastic waist skirt tutorial, but continued following the elastic-waist tutorial for the back half. I couldn't get my gathering to look nice and neat like hers, and ended up folding the material into little pleats by hand and securing them down with pins. Because only the back half of the waistband contains elastic, it's important to make sure that the entire waistband when fully stretched is still wide enough to slip up/down your hips. I also want to note that this fabric was from the home decor section, which is a treasure trove of materials with a little more structure than regular apparel cottons. Many home decor fabrics are thin and light, yet have just enough weight for a full skirt that won't sag or hang limply.

For the top, I traced a sheath dresses in my closet (tricky part is to factor in extra space where the darts are - I still can't get this right) from the neck/shoulders down to the waistline, keeping a sufficient seam allowance to allow for some mistakes. I then cut out identical traced pieces in the striped fabric and in a smooth lining fabric. This was my first time ever working with lining, and this tutorial (plus texts to my skilled friend Ping) was a lifesaver. Even though it was double the work and more, I love the feeling of a lined garment and the neat resulting edges along the neck and arm holes. After adding a zipper to the back, I finished the top by making a peplum hem using the same idea as from SPG's older tutorial.

My lack of planning and “learning as I go” resulted in a few too many seam-ripping fits and do-overs, and additional trips to the middle-of-nowhere fabric store. I absolutely love the results, but want to disclaim that the time and patience required to make a lined garment can be sizeable (took me ~30+ hours and $25-30 in materials, including inefficiencies). Unfortunately, I'm unable to make a detailed tutorial for something like this until learning the proper techniques and practicing a few more times.

Which is your favorite variation of this set? Worn as a top, skirt or dress?

Eat & Explore London (and packing light for tourism)

2013-06-11T00:43:00.002-04:00

J.Crew blazer (30% off w/SUMMERTIME), Coach court bag (review),
Ann Taylor pants (similar at J.Crew for $35+, similar at LOFT w/ extra 40% off), old H&M linen scarf

While in London, I admired the tall, put-together locals, donning late-May “uniforms” of mostly dark jeans, ankle-height flat booties, and dark leather jackets or trench coats. I wore my bright touristy fare with chagrin, so would recommend packing the aforementioned pieces for visiting if you own them & can pull off the booties. Unlike in this last suitcase series, I packed this time with the primary goal of all-day comfort. The nice part about dressing during travels (for lazy ones like myself, anyways) is that no one will notice when you wear similar outfits daily, or items on repeat. I wore this with heels to the office, onto a red-eye flight, then straight into a day of tourism.

For longer trips, I use this Samsonite hard shell spinner (use FRIENDS for an extra 25% off) and love it. The 20" size is pretty small, but on the plus side, it limits packing to a weight that I can lift. This has been key, ever since one of my travel fears came true when a few bystanders refused my requests for help with the overhead bin (resulting in a shaky, embarrassing struggle standing on top of a seat & almost chipping a tooth).

When trying to pack compactly, I start planning with the largest items (and wear the pieces that take up the most room)...

I looked for easily-washable, wrinkle-resistant jackets that could sustain inclement weather and wear & tear, and decided on 1) a denim jacket (the best travel companion) from H&M kids, 2) this knit striped blazer, and 3) a dark Theory trench to wear over everything and in the rain. Since the theme was very blue, I continued from there with pieces in either fellow primary colors (red and yellow), monochromatic, or neighboring colors (ie. teal). These schemes from the trusty color wheel allow for easy mixing and matching using a small number of items. A ancient Old Navy kids white tee served as my basic layering piece, and accessories were limited to functional items like cross-body bags and large scarves. I've found that rolling up garments helps prevent wrinkles, and also lets you see more items in one glance (without uprooting your entire suitcase) when getting dressed.

For sizing reference: 20" suitcase & the durable Longchamp plantes tote against ~5 feet tall frame

Walking shoes were the item I struggled with the most. Ideally I would’ve loved to find a sleek leather slip-on shoe with ample arch support, that’s comfortable right off the rack (and not too costly since it’d be taking a beating). Recommendations for such a shoe would be more than appreciated. Instead, a last-minute scour of the mall landed me with a pair of canvas Toms. Out of the few shoes I found in-store in sz 5, these were the most comfortable and lightweight option by far. I’m not a big fan of the canvas slip-on look for myself, but these (with a small embedded arch cushion) were comfy after 5-6 miles a day of walking. The soles are thin, so adding an insert would definitely improve comfort. Fit is true to size but I hear the canvas stretches out with wear, so I plan on adding inserts when mine get looser.

Unintentional coordination with Nick - now if only I can get him to smile

Our first stop off the plane was a little shop called Champagne and Fromage, which served mouth-watering cheese & charcuterie platters, tartines (toasted sourdough with toppings), and some small plates like escargo alongside a variety of bubblies. The deal at the time for online bookings was 6.50GBP for cheese or meat boards (typically 8GBP).
We then crossed the river to catch a ride on the tourist-favorite London Eye. View from below the Eye, while waiting in line:
You can buy tickets online to avoid waiting in the ticket lines, but please note that there's a long delay to receive the tickets electronically for printing (mine took about 5 hours). They aren't strict at all about the time slot the tickets are bought for, so no need to pay extra for the "flexible" time ticket. View from the top:

After a whirl on the Eye, we walked along the river Thames to the free-admission Tate Modern art museum, then crossed back over the river to see St. Paul's Cathedral. I heard the views are beautiful from the top, but we were too jet lagged to climb.

We couldn't go the first day without having some of the spectacular Indian food that London is known for. Dinner was at Roti Chai, which is split into an Indian Street Kitchen downstairs with smaller dishes (similar to tapas or dim sum), and a fancier upstairs dining room. The atmosphere downstairs was very lively with lots of good aromas, so we didn't go any further.
At Indian restaurants, I'm sad to admit I almost never stray from my chicken tikka masala or saag paneer. The lamb stew and fried chicken lollipops here were yummy, but my taste buds were most surprised by the tender fish curry and tantalizingly spicy "hakka chilli paneer" salad of sorts - so good!
We cooled our burning mouths with a kettle of chai lychee martini, and creamy pistachio and mango (the better of the 2 flavors) ice cream sticks. The prices aren't exactly "street kitchen" levels (bill was ~70 GBP for four), but each of us left full and very satisfied.

DIY convertible hem skirt: Moroccan print meets elephant trim

2013-06-07T02:02:00.005-04:00

H&M shell from last year, DIY skirt (seen here without the trim), eBay sandals (similar at Nordstrom)

Not wanting to tire you guys of travel stuff too quickly, today's post features a skirt that I've been loving in the warmer weather. This was my first attempt in years to make an "everyday" garment from scratch, and it was riddled with mistakes. For the pattern, I started by tracing my beloved map skirt with back slit custom made by SewPetiteGal (completely forgot that she did a tutorial on that skirt here!). I then played with the length and shape through rounds of trial & error, and had some struggles remembering how to insert an invisible zipper. Sewing will be a slow, continuous learning process for me - I took a beginner's class as a young teen, and highly recommend a local sewing course for anyone interested in getting started. Since many of you have asked for a machine recommendation, I use the old version of this Brother 10-stitch which has lasted me over a decade.

When I first debuted this skirt, all my in-person critics / friends loved the elephant trim, whereas online feedback was overwhelmingly against it. That was a bummer, but I was partial to the trim myself and had no doubts about keeping it. One of the best parts about sewing is that you can make whimsical pieces to suit your fancy.

I mentioned half-seriously on FB and Instagram that I wish the trim could be convertible, not expecting to receive useful suggestions from several ladies (thank you!). One idea in particular thanks to Michelle Y. ("add Velcro to the top of the trim and Velcro to the wrong side of the hem to make it convertible") got me thinking....
Although a fully detachable velcro'd trim would add too much bulk to the circumference of this skirt hem, I decided to experiment using velcro to secure the trim when folded up.

I had a roll of stick-on velcro lying around, and started by cutting enough small pieces to go around the circumference of the skirt hem, spaced at 3-4 inches apart. Working with the skirt turned inside-out, I stuck half a piece of vecro at the bottom of the trim, folded it up so that no more trim would be visible from the outside, then positioned the second half of the velcro into place. After all the velcro pieces were set, I tried on the skirt to make sure there was no tugging at any one of the velcro pieces, and adjusted as necessary. Lastly, I added tiny stitches in the same color as the fabric to firmly secure the corners of each velcro piece. I love the results, especially since the added versatility -as minor as it is- makes the hours of labor more worth it.
A few lessons learned: Don't make the velcro pieces too small or else they will form acute pressure points and tug at the fabric. As seen in the pic above, I tried to place the velcro on parts of the pattern where any stitching would be more easily concealed. Also, for a fold-up hem to work cleanly, the bottom few inches of the skirt must all be the same diameter (so not ideal for skirts that taper in noticeably at the hem).

For this skirt, I used about $10 total of materials from Fabric.com (having trouble linking to them, but item #s are DW-050 and 237487). The cottons are thin and wrinkled easier than I would've liked, but not so bad overall. I did not try to line this skirt (saved that piece of learning for next time), and have just been wearing it with my trusty slip from Target. The slip also prevents the scratchy side of velcro from touching my skin.
Even though a truncated leg line does short legs no favors, I can't help but gravitate towards ankle strap shoes or ankle booties. I got these Anne Michelle sandals a while back from this eBay seller, after eying the popular Steve Madden Realove heels. The Anne Michelle version seems to be very similar for less, but I do want to note that returns are subject to a 15% restocking fee and shipping costs, unlike with Nordies. The smallest size is 5.5, which in my opinion feels like a 5.5-6. There is a little extra space under the front toe strap, and the back heel cup is roomy on me. I plan on adding a strip of padding on the underside of the front toe strap, which will hopefully keep my foot more firmly in place and make the heel cup fit better.

For reference, my pair measures 9" insole length, 4" heel, 3.25" across the ball of foot, and 4.6" across the front toe strap (which should fit fairly snugly across your toes).

Eat & Explore Edinburgh, Part 2 (food pic heavy)

2013-06-05T00:06:00.003-04:00

For the remainder of our Scotland visit, we considered popular tourist activities like day trips to the Highlands (to sneak a peek at the Loch Ness monster), but settled on exploring the town by foot. We started the day with a delicious Scottish breakfast cooked fresh by Doris & Eddie of Doris Crook B&B. When traveling, we love trying a mix of hotels and cozy B&B's.

For lunch, we went 3.5 miles north to Leith (Edinburgh's waterfront) for a Michelin star restaurant featured by Anthony Bourdain. I rather trust the man's recommendations, as we share similar passions for crispy-skinned lechon or a hot bowl of pho noodles.

The Kitchin in Leith serves "modern British cuisine" with a big focus on using fresh, locally-sourced ingredients. After being seated, we each got little maps showing the birthplaces of ingredients used in the current menu. I felt like a kid with a connect-the-dots placemat at Applebees, matching pieces of each course to the map.

Left: Braised ox tripe w/ crispy ox tongue Right: Grilled squid atop braised squid w/ ink

After some veggie crudite, an amuse bouche (pre-appetizer), and warm rolls, these appetizers arrived and stole the show. The ox tripe tasted like a beloved dim sum dish, and the tongue (which I'm normally fearful of) was reminiscent of seared Spam - a guilty pleasure. I couldn't get enough of the flavorful braised squid, which had a meaty, stew-like consistency. It was especially yummy paired with the tender grilled pieces, dabbed in ink.

North Sea plaice (white fish) served with winkles (tiny snails), nice and light after the appetizers

Left: Lemon soufflé with crème fraîche ice cream to be dropped through the center Right: Tonka ice cream sandwiches with chocolate mousse & cherries (winner)

We had the set lunch for 26.5 GPB (~$43 USD) per person, which comes with a choice of a starter and a main, plus the pre-appetizer bites. The entire meal took almost two hours, so be sure to plan a long stroll afterwards to walk it off.

On the walk between Leith and the B&B, I couldn't believe how many secondhand shops lined the main streets. A quick online search landed me to this awesome map & guide on where to buy secondhand, where to sell/donate/recycle used items (we passed by several bulk garment buyback stores), and where to get your used items repaired or mended for a second life. It was unusual seeing such a thorough approach to sustainable fashion in the city.

Most thrift stores or "charity shops" were clearly labeled with the organization that they support (ie. Pets in Need of Vets - how can you not stop in?), and staffed with volunteers. There were also antiques stores, consignment shops, and vintage clothing stores aplenty. This area sounds like a thrifter's dream, but I didn't have luck finding anything below a ~US 4-6. One shop owner joked that locals "are bred bigger to stay warm."
After miles of daily walking, we treated ourselves to a couples massage at Castle Thai Spa. The masseuses were sweet and accommodating, but my extremely non-flexible body was in for a surprise upon discovering the nature of a Thai massage. Each time Nick started to drift off peacefully, he was jolted awake by my yelps and "oh my gosh, I don't think it bends that way!!"
We couldn't leave town without a tasting of Scotch whiskey. Nick was much more into this, whereas I just took obligatory sips of each followed by face scrunching and throat clutching.

At BrewDog, a local craft brewery. An affordable flight at 7.55GBP made for a hazy but happy walk home

Dinner tip: many of the restaurants offer a late lunch/early dinner (or "pre-theatre") menu up until 6-6:30pm, where you can order off a prix fixe menu for a sizeable discount. Dining out in general was pricey compared to the States, so I kept my eyes peeled for this option.

Scottish specialty "cullen skink" was high on my list to try, but gotta say New England clam chowder reigns far supreme! Mussels were plentiful everywhere and so big and juicy, we got them at least 4 times at various places.

Another common offering around town was kebabs, and the winning plate for me was over at Hanedan. We saw neighboring patrons scarfing down a mixed grill platter with a side of cacik (cucumber & yogurt sauce), and asked for the exact same thing. The seared meat, rice, and yogurt plus a scoop of chilli sauce were the perfect complements, and our plates were wiped clean.

Next up - Travel packing post & London

Thrifted girls tweed dress & Savers / Value Village Giveaway

2013-06-03T00:40:00.000-04:00

Dress from Savers, Ferragamo Vara shoes (current version), Lefties blazer, Ann Taylor necklace

Although I've always liked the idea of scoring quality, unique pieces for less at thrift stores, I didn't have much luck shopping them until recent years. The stores around Boston are usually sorted only by color, or item type, or not sorted at all...making it quite the hunt for items that fit. After seeing constant pieces on fellow blogger Kerry sourced from a "Savers" thrift store, I popped into one years ago and have been a fan ever since. The locations I've visited have been very organized (Nick usually makes a beeline for the homegoods & used books selection), with clothes actually sorted by size. And if you sign up for emails, they offer 30 - 50% off on select holidays. I was excited when the company reached out to me last month, with gift certificates to share (scroll down for giveaway details)!

Pic taken last year - dress worn differently w/ Nordies rack pearls, Morgan Ashleigh necklace, H&M heels

On one of these 50% off sales last year, I found this dress as part of a 2-piece for $4. At first glance, it was a terrifying explosion of pastel tweed and frill, probably worn once by a little girl for Easter and tossed quickly afterwards (funny enough, half a year later I came across an identical set at a thrift store hours away, which only confirms the fleeting life of this design). After peeling off the cumbersome jacket, however, I saw a cute, petite-friendly dress similar to items I've been eying from mainstream retailers.

Compared to my other thrift store finds, this dress required the least amount of re-work. My computer crashed and took with it all "before" photos, but the only alteration I did was taper in the waist darts. That may not have been the best route as the fit is still a little childish, but it did enough to breathe some new life into it.

After shopping second-hand items for a while, I do want to share that one of my biggest lessons learned is to not be influenced by low prices. After finding skirt after skirt in quality materials that fit perfectly at the waist (and require just a simple hem), I realized that it was getting excessive even at ~$5 a pop. I have also bought several pieces with grand transformation plans, but lost motivation due to all the work required. My advice is to shop just like you would at any higher-priced retailer....look for items in durable materials that'd be a valuable addition to your existing wardrobe, and are worth the time and/or tailoring costs of re-work (if any) to become a perfectly-fitting garment. The nature of thrifting is a game of patience -for me, it now results in no purchases 75% of the time, but the occasional finds that do happen tend to become favorites.

Savers (U.S. store locator), also known as Value Village in Canada (Canadian store locator) has offered three $50 gift certificates for EP readers. To enter, simply provide your email in the form below (emails will be used only to contact winners), and get an extra entry by leaving a comment about your favorite pre-owned find - be it furniture, jewelry, or clothes, etc. Giveaway is open to readers in the U.S. and Canada, and the three winners will be selected at random on June 10th.
a Rafflecopter giveaway

PS - The three winners of my ShoeMint giveaway have been selected, and the shoe credits should have been deposited. Please let me know if you are a winner and have not yet received your prize!

Banana Republic x Milly Patio Dress & easy wedding wear ideas

2013-05-31T01:58:00.000-04:00

Banana Republic x Milly patio dress c/o (25% off for cardmembers w/ code LOVEMILLY)

Ann Taylor sandals (this year's version), Amrita Singh earrings, Gap hat, clutch from the Philippines

The Milly for BR collection launched this week, with electric colors and prints suitable for our 90 degree heatwave. My favorite piece is the elephant-print shorts, made in cotton with a conservative 4” petite inseam. I love that they balanced out a potentially childish animal print with a classic navy & white palette. As I already have my fix of elephant shorts thanks to an earlier sewing project, I picked this pleated patio dress from the collaboration to style. Over the years, I’ve received a number of questions on wedding guest attire, some specifically from ladies who prefer not to bare their legs. A colorful long dress in a floaty, lightweight material is a happy medium between shorter frocks and a stern pant suit. For semi-formal occasions, I'd style such a dress as shown in the first photo with heeled sandals, clutch bag, and a shoulder wrap for dropping temperatures. For a beach or backyard wedding where heels would only aerate the lawn, strappy flat sandals + statement earrings (shown below) are sufficient to complete the look. Add an over-sized hat for a day lounging by the pool/ocean, or a denim jacket and cross-body bag for a weekend brunch.

On Nick: BR x Milly blue shorts and micro print shirt c/o, Keds sneakers

Apolis garden tote (gift from the Warby Parker folks, love it for picnics and trips)

The weight and material of the dress matters for special occasions, as cotton or knits can be too casual (ie. I wouldn’t wear this one to a wedding). I love the idea of luxurious silk, but personally don't mind lower-maintenance polyester for sticky summers. This dress is 100% poly (made in China) and is labeled dry-clean only, however I plan on hand washing it in the sink and just being gentle with the pleats.

Fit notes: I received this dress in a 0P because 00P was not available at the time (but it is now both online and in stores). The torso has a little extra room, and I shortened each shoulder strap by one inch. A 00P should fit someone with my measurements (32-24-32 and 5 feet tall) well with no hemming or alterations needed, and consequently I must warn taller ladies that the petite length runs on the shorter side.

Measurements of a 0P: 15" across the armpit, 12.5" across the waist, 13" torso length measured from top of shoulder strap (before I shortened it) to waistline, 35.5" skirt length. Dress is fully lined and has a side zipper and detachable tie-waist belt.

Photos thanks to Nick and Dave Salafia

Eat & Explore Scotland: Haggis, Royal Mile & Edinburgh Castle

2013-05-27T22:16:00.003-04:00

I'm back in Boston with sore legs and a few extra pounds, after a week exploring London and Edinburgh. Scotland was our second stop, but I wanted to share some photos with the trip fresh on my mind.

Instead of taking the ~1 hour flight from London to Edinburgh, we opted for the 5 hour "scenic" route via East Coast trains. The route was very pastoral with roaming sheep and cows, plus a few beautiful cathedrals and oceanfront views sprinkled along the way. The 60GBP tickets came with wi-fi and unlimited food & drink - by the time we diddled on our computers, chowed down lunch (chicken & leek pot pies were surprisingly piping hot with a flaky crust), and had a few glasses of cider and wine, we were already pulling into the final station.

J.Crew blazer (30% off w/ HELLOSTYLE), vintage Hermes scarf c/o LXR & Co (invite), Coach bag (review)

Edinburgh is a quaint city split into Old Town and New Town. The Old Town streets and buildings date back to the 1500's, with the "Royal Mile" street (pictured above) stretching through town to the Edinburgh Castle. The castle is small and admission is a relatively hefty 16GBP, but I enjoyed it very much as someone who is not a history buff.
^ The Royal Palace, which houses the Scottish Honours (crown, scepter, and sword) used in the coronation of 16th century monarchs. There were rooms of wax figures (terrifying in dim lighting...you can bet I don't do well in haunted houses or wax museums) telling the story of the Honours, leading up to a room where the opulent treasures themselves were on display.

The Edinburgh castle from afar, after a light drizzle.

Wearing - Gap petite legging jeans (wearing 2011 version), Toms vegan classics shoes in sz 5

The Scott Monument for Sir Walter Scott - love the gothic architecture.

When traveling, I always try to sample regional specialties. Haggis (no need to click if you're uneasy about innards) is hailed by some as the Scottish national dish, and was offered at almost every place we ate in various forms. Another common menu item was black pudding, which a waitress was hesitant to explain until I reassured her that I wouldn't be grossed out.

Clockwise from top left: Balls of haggis (not bad) with mashed potatoes, braised beef cheek with fresh pasta & scallions, black pudding atop crostini with quail eggs

After making our way to the New Town, we treated ourselves to overpriced afternoon tea at the Balmoral hotel. 25 GBP per person gets you: a little appetizer liquor, a tray of sandwiches and sweets, a course of warm scones w/ "clotted cream" & jelly, endless tea or coffee, and unlimited access to the cake trolley. I wish tea places would offer a savories-only option, as I usually wolf down the sammies but get nauseous from all the sweets. By the time the decadent cake trolley rolled around, Nick and I were ready to be rolled along home.

Petals, Brights & Stripes at the Boston Public Garden

2013-05-23T06:10:00.000-04:00

Equipment Brett blouse (gift last yr from my friend Elle), Ann Taylor striped dress (similar on sale)

Ted Baker clutch c/o (PS - Nordies' half-yearly sale has begun! Great source for shoes down to a sz 4)

Nick and I were rushing through the Public Garden en route to lunch with friends, but couldn't resist pausing to enjoy the unusual peace and quiet. The ducks and swans were gliding leisurely on the lake, and the blooms on the trees were spilling over onto the lawn. It's moments like these that make me fall in love with Boston all over again.

On my casual wear shopping list is a simple, navy & white knit striped tube skirt. For a basic piece to be worn for years to come, I've been looking for something with a sturdy weight and durable material. The ones I've tried have been thin and flimsy, or in pilling-prone materials that may not last through washes. It seems easy enough to make with the right fabric find, but til then, I've been re-working items in my closet to fill the void. This old dress from Ann Taylor is an office favorite...for slightly more casual outfits, I shortened the length by folding excess fabric over the top of a belt, then buttoned a shirt over the entire upper half. Works best for more fitted dresses - 1) Add belt; 2) Fold excess length over top of belt; 3) Conceal w/ blouse

Equipment receives rave reviews from silk blouse lovers, but the cut of most of their items is not petite-friendly. I tried on several styles and the "Brett" fit the most narrow across the shoulders and torso. Since these tops are in regular sizing, the sleeves will be long on petite-length arms. I've been enjoying this one as a vibrant, casual-fit top (wearing size XS), and may pay to get the sleeves shortened. While looking for a fun alternative to solid-colored nails, I found that take-out chopsticks can come in handy. Simply dabble some opaque-formula polish onto a piece of cardboard or glossed paper, and stamp the polish evenly onto pre-painted nails. I'll be using the same method to try flowers next with ~6 circles as petals, and a different colored one for the center.
When stamping with your weaker hand, I found it easiest to rest the wrist of the hand holding the chopstick against a counter top, and move/rotate the hand being stamped. I initially started with toothpicks but the dots were tiny and tedious to do...after switching to chopsticks, it took less than 2 minutes to finish both hands.

This is a scheduled post. I will try to answer any questions upon my return : )

Tutorial: DIY scallop hem for skirts, dresses, shorts or tops

2013-05-19T21:32:00.001-04:00

Supplies: A too-long skirt, iron, thread, a circular template, fabric chalk, scissors, and a butterknife or chopstick

Last weekend, I watched one of my younger brothers, Ed, graduate and was beaming with pride the entire time. I can't wait for him to settle into the Bay Area for grad school, so big sis can invite herself over and gorge on all the good eats there. During our long drive home from graduation, I mentioned that I'd been meaning to post the steps for this skirt, but had no spare skirts or scrap fabric to recreate the hem. Ed offered to whip up a simple animated tutorial. I had no idea what to expect, especially since I was certain he dozed off while I yapped on about the detailed steps. A few late nights of editing later, I think he did a great job conveying the basic concept (& the nice manicure was a bonus)!

*The below can only be viewed in flash-enabled browsers (ie. not on iPhones). Click play to begin.*

Scallop template: Before you begin any cutting or sewing, it may take some playing around with circular objects (tuna can, pasta jar lid, etc) to find one that will fit a whole number of times across the hem of your skirt. You can do trial and error, or measure the total width across your hem and divide it by the # of desired scallops to get a scallop diameter measurement. I did this, then searched in my kitchen for a flat circular object with the same diameter 1/3rd of the way up from the bottom.

Scallop design: I messed up my skirt the first time around, and pinpointed the issues to the shape and number of scallops. I recommend more obtuse angles between scallops for easier snipping (Step 9), which will result in cleaner corners and edges after the skirt is flipped right-side out and "shaped." As mentioned in a previous post, my first attempt with ~7 super-defined half circles came out looking like a Flinstones tunic. The second time around, I reduced the number of scallops to 6, used a larger circular template, and marked the circle 1/3rd of the way up (Step 5) for more shallow "waves" instead of deep half circles. Based on reader feedback, it looks like between 1/4th to 1/3rd of the way up results in ideal scallops.

Ideal fabric: My skirt was a thin, stiffer cotton/poly blend, and I think precise detailing like shaped edges will come out best on similar material types. Sewers with experience may recommend using interfacing on the hem area. I didn't have any and am not sure what the exact benefits of interfacing are, so if anyone can shed light on that it'd be helpful. I also want to note that the tutorial does not show serging the edges of raw fabric after the initial long skirt was cut. If you don't have a serger, you can try one or two layers of zig-zag stitching to lessen any fraying.

Hope you enjoyed this tutorial, and please let me know if you have any questions! (Note: This is a scheduled post, but I will do my best to answer your questions upon my return)

A few reviews & related thoughts

2013-05-15T02:21:00.001-04:00

I have a few reviews today, but first wanted to share some related thoughts. As someone who often shops and recommends inexpensive clothes manufactured in lesser-developed countries, last month's tragedy in Bangladesh has been especially weighing on my mind. Unfortunately, it took such an event to bring this issue into the mind of the public—myself included. After discussing this topic on end with many friends, I've found that focusing on a few points has helped me to better process the events and to think about my own actions for the long-term.

Become more informed
I want to learn to be a more responsible consumer by getting information from reliable sources. It's easy to sign petitions, or boycott retailers accused of poor practices, or say one is willing to pay more for items made "in better conditions." But there are many moving pieces involved (ie. retailers in developing countries provide jobs -as low as wages may be- to workers who may otherwise not have one, and lower-priced items are not necessarily made in worse conditions than something priced at 20x more) that I need to learn more about. Below are a variety of links friends have passed along, and I'd appreciate any other specific sources of information on the industry and certain retailers.

- 2012 Apparel Industry Trends (sent to me by Petiteish) - An interesting report done by Free2Work which grades 50 apparel companies on a number of metrics including child & forced labor policies and workers rights. Amongst the evaluated companies are H&M, Gap, and Forever 21 (would be curious to see J.Crew and others in the ranks). Overall ratings can be found on pg 4 of the PDF.
- Article from the NY Times (shared by Elle) on retailers that joined Bangladesh safety coalitions after the tragedy, and also ones that have not. The reader commentary is very interesting - some informative, some naive, but mostly interesting to hear perspectives from different angles.
- "Shop with a Conscience" guide by SweatFree.org - I was curious to visit all of the apparel retailers on the list, but only found tee shirts, tanks, flip flops, etc. I'd love to learn about any companies that have similarly transparent labor standards, but offer styles comparable to the clothes featured on this blog.
- Post by Michelle that inspired me to share my own thoughts. She mentions that she has started to "build a spreadsheet...a check off list of ethic topics" that I am looking forward to reading more about.

Continue re-evaluating my shopping habits
When I first started blogging, I browsed stores every other day and often had several new purchases each week. I started to feel like I was living in a landfill of disposable items that all looked the same. Over the past two years, I’ve tried to reduce my overall consumerism (starting by tracking # & types of items bought) with more careful purchases, and pay more attention to sustainable fashion. That included prolonging the life of existing things in my closet, getting more from the second-hand market, and also doing my own sewing. It's been a challenge, as I admittedly enjoy shopping, have limited patience and skills for thrifting/sewing, and realistically don't expect to stop visiting mainstream retailers. As these goals are a constant work in progress, I would like to better understand the implications of my actions and learn more about the options for consumers.

At the end of the day, everyone has varying beliefs, needs, and means, and many of us will continue to shop the same retailers for inexpensive clothing that we can rely on to fit. As my following reviews indicate, I've personally been a longtime customer of the same handful of companies for those precise reasons, and am still turning to them for shopping needs. Re-evaluating this habit is hard, and I'm trying to start small by becoming more informed and to continuously work on my aforementioned goals. I would love to hear about your personal practices, as well as any sources of information that you rely on when making shopping decisions.

Reviews from the past month:
For a trip coming up this week, I realized my closet lacked casual layering clothes and footwear that can sustain days of tourist activities without being too unfashionable. I ended up with this pair of Toms (cannot yet attest to comfort nor durability), and may have overloaded a bit on stripes.

1. H&M girls striped cotton shorts, $12.95, item # 059671

I had been anticipating the release of these Gap striped shorts, but my size in petites sold out immediately and the regular runs roomy. These from H&M girls are a good alternative and have a cute 1/2" cuff at the bottom. I really like the lightly textured material (like a cross between linen and chambray) - it's thin and unlined, but sheerness shouldn't be an issue if you stick to beige undies. The fit of a size 11-12 is very good on me and I usually wear an H&M women's sz 2. These are available in a few more sizes up that may fit up to a womens 4 - 6. Front pockets are functional but back pockets are decorative only.

Sorry for the terrible back fit shot - wasn't having much luck taking photos over my shoulder!

The one downside I found is a bright pink embroidered logo on the top corner of the left pocket. I tried removing embroidered logos before (darn plentiful Abercrombie mooses) and it ended up being a disaster of cut threads. The one on here can be covered by a longer top, so it isn't so bad.

Measurements of girls 11-12: 14" across waist, 9" rise, 17" across hips, 10" front length. 100% cotton.

Verdict: Purchased and am very pleased with them.

2. Coffee Shop Petites (via Target) cotton jacket, $45.99, trying sz XSP

This jacket was first recommended by a reader, Alexis, and sold out online (petites not avail. in stores) pretty quickly. I had no intentions of trying it, but the more I wore my oversized Gap one, I realized I needed a better-fitting option. I picked this one up during a restock hoping it'd be a petite-friendly replacement. The quality is very good - the 100% cotton holds its structure well and has the stand up collar that I love, and I was also impressed by the fit throughout (like H&M 2 - 4). The waistline hits at the right spot and has adjustable drawstrings. The sleeves have tabs for cuffing, though I'd snip these and just simply wear them rolled up. The only issue is the color is more of a mossy brown-green than an army green.

Verdict: Did not keep due to the color.

3. Gap girls terry-lined pullover, ~~retail $29.95~~, extra 30% off online, on sale in-stores for 11.98

Ever since Nick banned me from borrowing his favorite terry striped pullover, I've been on the hunt for my own. These things have the comfort of a sweatshirt combined with the year-round versatility of a striped top. I first tried my luck at Gap womens and was on my way out when I spotted this on a kids table. The fit is typical of kiddie attire and runs wide and short. The sz M is a slouchy fit on me throughout, with the length hitting at my hips and sleeves ending above my wrist (look better rolled up). I loved it at first trial and planned on doing a simple slimming of the sleeves, but in my excitement I overlooked the raglan-style sleeves. My shoulders are sloping and narrow, so items without defined shoulders tend to make me look more childish.

Measurements of girls M: 18" length, approx 19" long sleeves, 15.5" across armpit, 15" across waist. 75% cotton, 25% poly.

Verdict: Purchased, but may bring back due to the shoulders & continue looking for a better option.

4. J.Crew Maritime blazer in "ivory dark cove" - on final sale in-stores for $35 (pricier online)

I was at J.Crew returning a shirt (a thoughtful surprise from Nick, but sadly I didn’t think it’d get much wear) and saw a whole bunch of these shrunken-looking blazers out of the corner of my eye. I had tried last year's version on during a pretty decent sale, and liked the style but was not wow’d by the torso fit nor the sleeves that needed shortening. I quickly noticed that all of the jackets left on the rack were in the same size - XXS - a telltale sign that it may run small. Sure enough, it fit very well and is comparable to their 00 petite. Per J.Crew's website, it was re-designed this year with "bracelet length" sleeves, which translate into no alterations needed for shorter-limbed ladies.

Note: the jacket is in a stiffer knit 93% cotton, 7% spandex that helps it hold structure but is still comfortable. It is partially lined only by the upper back area. Measurements of an XXS reg - 14" across shoulder, 16.5" across armpit, 14.4" across waist (my only complaint is the waist could nip in more), 20" length, 20" sleeve length.

Verdict: Purchased and will be getting a lot of wear out of this. I tweeted the store that I found this at and suspect they are sold out by now, but J.Crew does store search if you have the style # (84593, color IDC), and also ships to homes domestically for $8.95.

Spring in full bloom: Candied tweed + floral dress as a top

2013-05-10T00:43:00.000-04:00

J.Crew dress in "Garden Floral" sz reg 00 (this year's version - use SALE30 for 30% off everything)

Burberry trench sz 2 (similar), Ann Taylor skirt, Pour la Victorie wedges (similar by PLV)

I've lived in Boston for 8 years, and I never remember loving springtime so much. In contrast with recent events, the blossoming trees and beds full of tulips look prettier than ever. I felt inspired to dig this little floral number out of storage, and make the strapless style be suitable for work.

Faux-pearl necklace from Nordies Rack (similar on eBay), Coach bag (review)

I absolutely adore this "Garden Floral" print, and was excited to see via Gigi that J.Crew brought it back this year at their factory store, in a more work-appropriate style. I showed 3 ways to style this dress last year, and am rounding it out with #4 - worn as a top.

I fell in love with this candy-colored tweed skirt from Ann Taylor last fall, but it only came in regular sizing. Since costly alterations would be required regardless of size, I tried to hold out for a better price. Pencil skirts that have no pockets or other details are easier to re-size, but I wouldn't recommend tailoring something that's more than 3 sizes up from what you usually wear (any darts or curves in the cut would not lie in the right place post-alterations). I ended up finding a sz 4 on sale, and spent about $20 to have the waist and sides taken in.

Since the floral plus colored tweed is on the busier side, I finished off this outfit with my trusty neutral trench (best wardrobe purchase ever) and a pair of nude wedges. Nick dislikes these saying "they just look like feet," which is precisely why anyone seeking a leg-lengthening effect might enjoy them. I originally saw the patent version on Blair, and did a double take when my size popped up on a sample sale site (invite). Unfortunately I got the last few pairs of these at the time (for two friends), but Nine West has a similar option in patent, starting in size 5.5.

(Anne Michelle sandals, Louboutin cap toes, Ferragamo Vara pumps, PLV wedges)

From Instagram

PS - Thank you so much to everyone who came out to Marshalls Fenway yesterday, despite the Sox game plus a wave of humidity! Anna, Bonnie, Jen, Adriana, Brinkley (?) and your chic mom and cousin, Paula, Hannah, and several other awesome (& such smart!) ladies - I had a great time meeting and chatting with you all!

Weekend Wear: DIY Scalloped skirt & Ferragamo Varina Flats

2013-05-06T00:20:00.000-04:00

Thrifted skirt w/ DIY scallop hem, BR Mad Men dress c/o (last worn here) and swing jacket (old)

Ferragamo Varina flats, Ann Taylor foldover clutch, Chanel tortoise wayfarer sunglasses

If you have any plain old skirts or dresses that need a touch of something, consider trying your hand at a DIY scalloped hem. This skirt was a happy find for me at Savers/Value Village thrift store for just $3.99. The waist (labeled a size 6) fit perfectly without alterations, and there are pockets on each side (score!). I started to do a basic hem on the matronly mid-calf length, however switched gears partway through to something a little more unique.

I took photos for a scallop hem tutorial but made the mistake of "learning as I go." My scallops initially came out very defined, almost jagged, and could've given Freddy Flinstone a run for his money. After making some modifications, the second attempt came out exactly like I had hoped. Unfortunately, precious fabric was lost due to errors from round 1, leaving me with a skirt short enough to inspire some thigh toning exercises.

Knit jacket: H&M (very old)

Hemming the scallops the second time around took under an hour, and is something beginner sewers can do. Since my initial photos have been rendered useless, I hope to re-create the steps and post a tutorial in a week or two.

After falling in love with the Ferragamo Vara low-heel pump, the more modern flats were next on my list. I find that Ferragamo shoes in general run slim in the toes and heel, which is great for those with more narrow feet. I love the design of these, however the stiff patent leather required a break-in period like the infamous Tory Burch Reva flats. This pair is very comfortable now, but I'm disappointed that shoes at this price are not comfortable right off the rack.

Earlier this month, I also received an email from Savers / Value Village. I'm always happy to hear from companies that I frequently patronize, and was excited to get some gift certificates to share. I'll be posting a giveaway after my ShoeMint one ends, so please stay tuned if you're a Savers / VV fan!

Spring citrus, silver pumps & ShoeMint Giveaway (3 winners!)

2013-04-30T22:03:00.003-04:00

LOFT box pleat blouse (now extra 60% off), H&M blazer (still in stores) sz 2

Gelareh pumps sz 5.5 c/o ShoeMint, DIY convertible skirt, Morgan Ashleigh necklace

Now that the weather is finally warming up, I’ve been turning to zesty yellow and lime green to brighten up my work wardrobe. I do want to mention, however, that an outfit like this is not appropriate for every type of business environment. At meetings with clients or "serious" government officials, I usually go with a muted-colored, knee-length suit to ensure that attire isn’t the reason I won’t be taken seriously. For days when only my internal team will lay eyes on me, I have a little more fun getting dressed.

For an outfit ripe with brights and neons, I found that a soft metallic shoe works just as well as the usual staple nude. I was excited to see these ShoeMint pumps that look just like a popular designer style, and are offered in extended sizing down to a 5. I went with silver to replace an old, similar pair, bought back in the day when I thought 6 was the smallest shoe size out there. Thank goodness for the advent of online shopping, otherwise I’d still be gripping my toes to keep heels from flying off.

Fit & quality notes: I am between size 5 – 5.5 in most brands (for reference, I take a 5 in Ann Taylor and 5.5 in J.Crew/BR), and usually size up for pointy styles so my toes don’t have to suffer. A 5.5 in these fit perfectly. I love the sharp silhouette, and feel the price is good for a genuine leather pump. The brand partners with Steve Madden for craftsmanship, and I found the quality of these to be reflective of that.

ShoeMint is also sponsoring a fun giveaway open to both U.S. and Canadian readers - three readers will win a pair of shoes of their choice. To enter:

- Mandatory: Sign up here to be a member of ShoeMint and fill out the giveaway form below. It's free to sign up, and new members can get 20% off full priced items w/ code RACHEL20.
- Optional: Facebook fans will receive 1 extra entry. Thank you to each one of you who have supported this blog through various social media channels!

a Rafflecopter giveaway

OPI "Havana Dream" polish

I ordered this box pleat blouse during LOFT's last big sale, and have found it to be a good warm-weather basic. The material is 100% polyester (which I almost prefer to silk because it's machine washable), drapes well, tucks into bottoms without bulk, and doesn't wrinkle much throughout the day. It is very thin and sheer, however, so I make sure to wear a nude-colored bra underneath. For sizing, I am wearing an xxs petite here without any alterations. Measurements are: 13" across the shoulders, 17.5" armpit to armpit, 20" length, 16.5" sleeve length. The lighting and temperature changed so drastically in the five minutes I was taking these photos...I am purple & fighting a fit of shivers in the below pic, but included it anyways to show the fit of the top.

Thank you for entering this giveaway, and good luck!

Leather trim + leopard linen (& all-over coat alterations)

2013-04-29T01:14:00.000-04:00

Emerson Fry coat (from last season, altered), Gap petite sweater

J.Crew bag - 25% off everything w/ SPRINGBEST, Ann Taylor leather trim skirt (similar), YSL heels

This outfit features pieces that have trendier details, but have nevertheless become classics in my fairly conservative wardrobe. Last October, I saw this leopard linen coat on Chloe and didn't wait five minutes before messaging her about the quality and fit. A leopard print coat may not be everyone's cup of tea, but I loved the more wearable textured linen unlike the usual faux fur. After trying on so many items that I've felt yawningly indifferent about, I've been all the more appreciative of pieces that get me excited at first sight.

Chloe responded that she felt the quality was impeccable ("a rarity these days"), but the fit ran big so I'd probably need alterations. The jacket was pricey to begin with, and I estimated all-over alterations to be about $150 and risky without a trusted tailor. I love a good coat and have splurged on several in the past - mostly items that have earned their worth in # of wears, but also an impulsive purchase or two that are now gathering dust. I wanted to make sure this wouldn't end up like the latter.

Fast forward to January and I was still thinking about the darn coat, which had by then sold out at full price. After doing my 2012 year-end wardrobe spending analysis, I was surprised to find out I shopped nearly 40% less both in item count and $-wise than in 2011. I still love my H&M, but weeding out frequent trips to "the usual" retailers and sale racks resulted in more closet space and funds for things that I really wanted. I began my hunt for a pair of Valentino pumps that I'd been admiring for half a year (namely on Wendy), plus this coat. Thanks so much again Vicki K. for alerting me when a size 00 popped back into stock!

As expected, the coat was roomy throughout, but I saw potential for a piece that I'd enjoy for years to come. I wish I could say the same for Nick, who was horrified at the massive amount of leopard and dubbed me "Cruella Deville." I usually value his honest, unfiltered thoughts, but this was something I knew I loved regardless of opposing opinions. My only qualm was some stains on the coat. I contacted customer service and they were impressively responsive, and somehow located another one in the same size. I sent mine back for an exchange and was informed that the new one coming to me would be marked down 50% off to reflect an upcoming clearance sale. Totally unexpected, but no complaints here!

And now for the not so fun but unfortunately necessary part of having well-fitting clothes - getting & paying for alterations. Wendy, who is very similar to me in size, bought the same coat and got it beautifully altered in L.A. (as shown in the below right pic). Her tailor took the torso up by the shoulders, which is a fix I'm familiar with for dresses and tops but never had done for a coat. I imagine it's very complex, but the end result is a proportionate, properly-tailored garment ...versus one that has just been hemmed and taken-in, but with all the details (button and pocket placement, lapels, etc) left unadjusted. I was fascinated! Proper tailoring must be a dying art, as the tailors I asked in Boston said they'd never done that for coats, and quickly shunned my suggestion like it was a bunch of baloney.

Left: Unaltered coat on me in sz 00, leopard "linebacker" style

Right: Wendy's coat post-alterations on her - entire torso was lifted by the shoulders, shoulder width was narrowed, sleeves were slimmed, torso was slimmed and hemmed

Wendy so kindly offered to take my coat to her tailor and mail it back, but in the end I just went to one that I've been visiting in Chinatown (located on Knapp St & speaks Chinese only). I proposed a "fitting," and asked the tailor to leave the lining seams unfinished until I could try the coat on and give feedback. I'm a wuss when it comes to asking tailors to re-do work, so figured this request would set some expectations. I mentioned this after he had already finished all the pinning and chalk-marking. After he understood what I meant through my embarrassingly broken Chinese, he went back and checked the markings, plus took detailed measurements of my body (aha...hopefully was encouraged to do a more thorough, accurate job the first time around).

A month and a fitting later, the results are not perfect from all angles, but I think my tailor did the best his skills would allow. Unlike Wendy's results, the lapel/pockets/buttons on mine were not shifted upwards, so the lower button hole comes dis-proportionately close to the shortened hem (I removed the button itself). Despite some issues, I adore the coat - and Nick even had me doubled over in surprise when he mentioned how much he now enjoys it.

Total cost was $60 to take in the shoulders, slim and hem the torso, and slim the sleeves. I was expecting to pay well over $100, and felt this was extremely low for the amount of work done (which the tailor proclaimed himself afterwards). His rates are very unpredictable, though - he'll charge me $12 to slim a skirt one month and $25 the next (possibly after realizing how much work the prior one was), and I don't argue. My aunt says not to bargain with tailors after you've handed over the clothes, if you want your stuff to come back in the best shape possible!

Readers - Have you ever had a coat or blazer taken up by the shoulders (or done it yourself)? If so, please share how it turned out and how much the job cost.

Reviews: Old Navy wrap dress, Nordstrom petites jacket & more

2013-04-24T23:12:00.002-04:00

Spring has me itching for prints and stripes, and there was no shortage of such in my April packages. Although I found just one keeper, there were several decent contenders that I still wanted to share.1. Old Navy wrap dresses (in reg, petite, tall) - 5 color/prints available, use ONSAVENOW for 15% off

I really like my DVF-inspired ON wrap dress from last year, and couldn't resist trying their current version in petites. PXS fit well off the rack, and the wrap style is forgiving and adjustable. Their regular-sized version last year required so many tedious DIY alterations for me...I'm glad they decided to bring this back in extended sizing!

H&M blazer (old), vintage shoes from eBay

The rayon material is on the thin side, so I'd recommend wearing a slip skirt underneath (I own this in both colors and wear them all the time). Please excuse the wrinkles in the photos as I forgot to iron.

Verdict: Returned, but would recommend in the various colors/prints. The fit is good for a petite garment and the wrap style is so easy to throw on for work or weekends. I was ready to keep this, but Nick convinced me otherwise - I don't love this year's prints enough to justify buying a duplicate just yet.

2. ASOS Dress in Striped Jacquard - free ship both ways, try SALESCORE for 10% off, or CHECKOUTTREAT for 10% off $75+

H&M blazer (old), J.Crew mona heels

I love the look and sturdy texture of this black & white dress, but as expected, something was off about the fit of a regular sized garment on a sub-5 foot tall frame...

The shape of the skirt is very full and swingy (made from a full circle), which makes a proportionate fit very important. The dress fit fine on me width-wise in a US 2 / UK 6, but the waistline was an inch or two lower than my ideal placement. The dress looked excellent with heels, but when paired with low shoes, the too-long torso on me became more evident and made legs look stumpier.

I know this issue is barely noticeable in photos, but the belted photo below shows my ideal waistline for a fuller dress. My first thought was to raise the shoulders (see below right with binder clips pulling the shoulders up), but the neckline was then choke-me tight. Due to the thickness of the material and construction of the shoulder straps, it would also not be an easy alteration.
Measurements of a US 2 / UK 6: 15.5" from top of shoulder to waistline, 14.5" armpit to armpit, 12.5" across waist, 17.5" skirt length. 85% cotton, 14% nylon, 1% elastane.

Verdict: Returned, but would recommend for someone at least 1-2" taller who doesn't mind an exposed back metal zipper. The material is of medium-thick weight and good quality, and the silhouette is fun and flirty.

3. Gap Printed Pointy Flats (small sizes no longer available online; in-store sizing starts at 6)

Wearing a sz 5 - sorry for the terrible photo!

I tweeted excitedly about these when more sizes were available, so I hope any interested readers were able to pick up a pair. I've never tried Gap shoes before and had no idea what to expect, but have to say I am very impressed by these. There is cushioning on the inside, the pointy toe is unexpectedly comfortable, and I was surprised to find out these were genuine leather. I was looking for a stylish, inexpensive travel shoe - and these cuties fit the bill.

I got these with a 30% off coupon online for $35, and saw them on sale in-stores for quite a bit less. Unfortunately for small-footed ladies, in-store sizing starts at 6+. There was also a ponyhair brown leopard which I loved, a red with purple polka dot leather, and a black and white spotted ponyhair option.

4.Halogen Petites Navy Striped Jacket (also in regular sizing for half the price)

J.Brand legging jeans, Target wedges (old), vintage bracelet

I was sad to miss out on Gap's textured stripe jacket, but was subsequently excited to find a similar option at Nordies (down to a size 00P, which I've never seen there before). The Halogen petites sale price is the same as Gap's retail price, but that's what I get for being late to the game. The fit of this is very similar to 00Ps from LOFT/AT, so slightly roomy for someone my size. The torso cut is straight and the sleeves run on the wide side, as shown below (note: I have the sleeves clipped back in the top photo).

When zipped as shown below, I felt top-heavy like an upside down trapezoid. This jacket looks a lot better open.

The quality of this little jacket is similar to that of Ann Taylor. It's fully lined in a thin material, has two faux pockets at the top and 2 real zip ones at the bottom. I really liked the texture and weight (light-medium) of the material, as well as the classic navy and ivory color scheme. As with this boxy J.Crew jacket, though, the cut seems to work better with jeans/shorts/slacks than with dresses/skirts.

Measurements of a 00P: 15" armpit to armpit, 19" jacket length at the longest point in the front, 17" length at the back, 13.5" across the shoulder seams (14.5" across if including the shoulder padding), 15" across the waist when zipped up, 15" sleeve length, 5" sleeve width. 68% cotton, 25% rayon, 7% poly. This size is currently sold out online but I keep seeing new sizes pop back every few days.

Verdict: Still undecided. I like the colors and textured material, but feel unsure about the boxy cut. Nick gave it a thumbs up and says the cut is no boxier than my tweed jackets, but I feel the horizontal stripes accentuate the squareness of the shape more. I'd love to hear from anyone else who has tried on this jacket!

Simple Spring: White on White

2013-04-19T19:38:00.000-04:00

The past few days in Boston have been surreal, and I thank each one of you who have expressed care or concern. I read every message and truly appreciate your thoughts. We had group counseling at the office yesterday to help transition back to normalcy, only to wake up this morning to find the city panicked and in lockdown mode. As numerous tragic events keep unfolding around the world, I'm thankful for my friends and loved ones, and my heart goes out to those who've been affected.

J.Crew felted wool mini (altered) and pumps (similar), thrifted & altered blouse (similar)

Gap sweater jacket (stripe version) (similar), Prada tote, H&M scarf (similar under $10)

It feels frivolous to be posting fashion at this time, but writing this was a welcome respite from the chaos on TV. I wore this outfit to work a few weeks ago, and loved the look of a fresh ivory canvas plus an accent color and some neutrals. For a more casual setting, I replaced the blazer with a cozy sweater jacket, which also provided a punch of color.

This 100% silk, Lauren by RL blouse is one of my most-worn thrift store finds. It was several sizes too big, but I couldn't pass up the nice and weighty silk quality for $4 (especially when compared to the flimsy and sheer options typically found on today's market).

I altered the shoulders in a few inches by adding hand-stitched ruching, then slimmed the sleeves and torso (all steps shown here). I recognize this method is a shortcut and does not look ideal at the shoulders, but didn't have the patience to try a total re-sizing (tutorial here) again. After reaching for this blouse so much, I think it may have earned itself a professional tailoring overhaul.

This skirt went on my wishlist right after Elle's review, and ended up being the last part of my J.Crew end-of-year sale haul. With the repeated price cuts and extra discounts, it's easy to go a little nuts. I tried to narrow down the items I really loved, then considered which ones could withstand waiting through a few rounds of price cuts. I bought "online only" items first, but waited on things that could be found in stores. In-store sales are usually better than online, and sizes linger around at random locations - you just need to make sure the cost of store shipping doesn't trump the savings. I was also willing to buy items earlier on that would make up for the price difference in frequent wears.

When all was said and done, I went back to assess my damage over 9 months and note any lessons learned:

1. Schoolboy blazer in wool flannel (worn here) - $150 - bought at small discount due to classic color to fill wardrobe void, and online only petite sizing.
2. & 3. Mustard wool Lady Jacket and pencil skirt (worn here) - $146 (includes $20 for taking-in alterations) - bought fairly early for the petite sizing, plus caught an online pop-back of my size.
4. Camel Mona pumps - $110 - bought fairly early due to classic color and online only sz 5.5.
5. Crewcuts burgundy corduroy pants (worn here) - $14 - unecessary impulse buy due to aimlessly browsing sales racks, which I now try to avoid.
6. Ivory wool mini skirt - $54 (includes $9 "item finder" store to home shipping & $20 alterations) - waited til end of season clearance to do store search. Skirt is available in regular size only and would require alterations regardless, and sold out online & locally early on.

Total: $474 for 6 pieces.

Despite all the sales and steep discounts, it's easy to see that J.Crew prices can add up quickly. I also attempted to do the skirt alterations myself, but their waistband construction proved to be too complicated for my skill and patience. Except for the one impulse buy, however, I'm very happy with the purchases and have been wearing them on regular rotation.

Readers - How do you decide what items are worth buying earlier/at higher prices versus waiting for a better sale?

Wear to Work: Double Tweed + Strappy Pumps

2013-04-14T23:45:00.002-04:00

Uniqueen Malang jacket c/o (old color, use EXTRAPETITE through 5/2 for 10% off your order)

Valentino rockstud heels (4 colors), H&M blouse, LOFT trousers (similar), pearls from a friend

Just dropping in with a quick hello, and hoping you guys enjoyed your weekends. Work has been time-consuming, but I hope to have some reviews up soon. Our boss implemented casual Fridays for our team, as a small "reward" of sorts. While most of my colleagues have been turning to denim and polo shirts, I've been using this day to experiment with items like these strappy, open-back shoes - which typically are not appropriate per business attire standards.

To balance out the trendier details on these pumps, I went very conservative with the rest of the outfit both in color scheme and coverage. It feels like Boston has regressed back to winter, so the double tweed (plus overcoat) was also necessary to survive my morning commute.

Per my style resolutions this year, I've been inspired by a reader, Janki, to improve (or get rid of) things in my existing wardrobe before buying new items. So far this has meant swallowing several tailoring bills for things that I've been "faking the fit" with for too long. It's also made me really think twice about buying cheapie things that don't fit perfectly, yet aren't "worth" alterations. I have to say, I love having an (albeit smaller) wardrobe of pieces that I can consistently rely on and feel confident in. These old pants are next on the list for a little fix (cuff tapering tutorial here) - I always thought they were acceptable, but the roomy ankles couldn't escape being captured by a side view photo!

PS - I'm excited to try this Halogen jacket, offered in extended petite sizing that I've never seen at Nordies before (ordered 00 petite to try)! It looks just like a Gap one I loved from earlier this year, which sold out quickly and probably would not have fit. There's only one review so far on the Halogen jacket in regular sizing, noting that it runs small.

$20 striped maxi dress & find your fabulous at Marshalls event

2013-04-09T10:04:00.004-04:00

Dress c/o Marshalls, vintage Hermes belt c/o LXR & Co (invite), Chanel WOC

Steve Madden sandals (similar- so cute for under $25), H&M blazer (review, sleeves slimmed & shortened)

I've teamed up with a few lovely bloggers (Lani, Lissy, Khatu and Bettina) to host an event at Marshalls Fenway, which is the newest store location to open up in Boston. If you live in the area and have time on Wednesday May 8th, 6-8pm, I would absolutely love it if you stopped by! We will be sharing our favorite picks from the store and giving away quite a few gift cards to help "find your fabulous." There will also be several chances to win prizes, including items that each of us picked out. If you'd like to attend, please RSVP here so we can plan for the snacks and prizes accordingly.

I'm a big fan of maxi dresses for the comfort and ease, and this is the second time I've scored in the juniors department. The key for me is to find (or tailor) dresses with a simple cut in a stretchy but well-draping material, that just skims over the hips and legs and hits at the top of the foot. The end result is very lengthening and slimming, even when worn with flats or low shoes, as shown here.

This dress is actually a juniors sz M but looked narrow on the hanger and not too long. Sure enough, it fit similar to a petite S and the length was perfect with no hemming needed. I loved it the moment I tried it on, and just slimmed the sides a little. For anyone who is interested, it was $19.99 and the brand is "Max & Riley" - I've seen the same dress at two local Marshalls and TJ Maxx stores, but didn't find anything smaller than a M.

Love the paneled torso as well, which adds to the slimming effect. There is a short exposed zipper at the top back.

For casual days, I love the idea of topping off a maxi dress with a cropped denim or utility jacket. I don't own the former and my Gap army jacket was too long, so I went with this ivory blazer for a delicious brunch with friends. Long dresses keep legs warm during windy spring days (and delay shaving!) and are surprisingly breathable in hot weather as well - overall a win-win.

Tutorial: Easy DIY Elastic Waist A-Line Skirt w/ Pockets

2013-04-07T20:30:00.001-04:00

I'm looking forward to making this style skirt again with spring/summer-appropriate fabrics, and think it's a great easy project for beginner sewers to try (and inexpensive - cost me about $5 total). Please note that I am not an experienced sewer and these steps may not be technically correct - I usually take garments I own and try to trace back the steps to recreate them. For this skirt, I used this J.Crew skirt as a guide and added a few inches to the length and width for a fuller A-line shape.

You will need:
- 1 - 1.5 yards of fabric depending on the size of the skirt, and if you want pockets. I used 1.5 yards.
- Piece of soft elastic - at least 1" wide and long enough to fit around your waist.
- Sewing machine (my Brother is very old and discontinued; this is the most similar model), scissors & thread.

1. Cut two rectangular pieces of fabric for the front and back of the skirt. My rectangles were 21" long x 23" wide, for a skirt that ended up being 19" long x 22" wide at the bottom.

Length: However long you want your skirt to be, add about 3 inches (~ 2" allowance for a waist "casing" to conceal the elastic band, and ~1" allowance for the bottom hem). You can always hem the length shorter after trying it on.

Width: Depends on how full you want your skirt to be. For my skirt, I nearly doubled my waist measurement. If you want the same approximate fullness, take your waist circumference measurement, divide it in half, and multiply it by 1.9. This will be the width of your rectangular pieces of fabric.

Pockets (Optional): Fold your fabric so that the patterened sides are facing inwards at each other. Draw out and cut 2 sets of ear-shaped material as shown - 4 pieces of fabric total for the pockets.

2. Lay out your fabric pieces as shown, and pin the ears about 4" down from the top edge. It's hard to see in the photo below, but I also took chalk and marked "F" for front and "B" for back in the corners of the rectangular panels, and also "FL" on the front left pocket, "FR" on the front right pocket, and so on, just as notes for myself when I assemble them together.

3. Stitch along where my yellow pins are shown - down the entire length of the straight edge of the pocket. Repeat for each pocket. Whenever you stitch a line, make sure to backstitch when you begin and also when you finish, to keep the thread from unraveling.

4. Iron down the newly-stitched seams of each pocket, as shown:

You should now have two continuous pieces of fabric, shaped like rectangles with pocket ears on each side.

5. With the patterned sides of the material facing in towards each other, lay the front and back panels down on top of each other and pin the left and right sides together. If you omitted the pockets, all you need to do is sew straight up and down both sides. If you have pockets, the white dotted lines below show where you should be stitching. When stitching, leave an opening along the side seams big enough for your hand to fit through comfortably (I left a 6.5" long hole).

Close-up of where to stitch:

6. Next up, the waist band. Fold over half an inch along the top and iron it down. This will tuck away the raw edges of the fabric.

Next, fold the top of the waist over again and iron. If your elastic band is 1" wide, then you should fold down about 1.3" of material. The elastic band should fit easily inside this "casing" we are making.

7. Stitch down the casing we just ironed along the bottom edge. Make sure to leave a small gap to feed the elastic band through:

8. Wrap an elastic band around your waist until it's tight enough to hold a skirt up, but still comfortable. Add one inch as an allowance for when we join the two ends together, and cut the elastic to this length. I made the mistake of making my elastic band exactly the same as my waist measurement - the resulting skirt feels a little loose and will have to be fixed. Ideally I should've made the waistband of my skirt about 2 inches more narrow than my actual waist measurement, because the elastic has good stretch.

Start feeding the elastic band through the casing. Pinning a safety pin to one end of the elastic makes it easier to feed through the narrow casing. Pin the tail end of the elastic to the casing opening so it doesn't get pulled in as well.

9. After the elastic has gone through the entire casing, securely stitch the two ends of the elastic together. Try on your skirt to make sure the waist fits like you want it to, then stitch close the casing hole.

10. The elastic band may not lie flat once inside the casing and start to twist and flip around. To prevent this from happening, you can add a stitch or two to the outside of the waistband to secure the elastic down to the fabric. Because the fabric is all scrunched and gathered, you need to use both hands to stretch the elastic out evenly, so the fabric lays smoothly when being fed through the machine.

Don't rush this part or you may end up with fabric that's gathered unevenly along the elastic waist band. Stretch a few inches of elastic out with the fabric, stitch evenly, and pause. Stretch out the next few inches, continue stitching, and pause again.

11. Try on your skirt, then hem the bottom to your desired length. Finish by ironing down all seams. If you don't have a serger, you can try a zig zag stitch along the raw edges to help avoid fraying, or just fold the edges thinly twice and stitch them down.

Voila! Finished skirt, that can be easily changed up with any color or patterned fabric to suit your tastes and the seasons. I hope to try a zippered skirt next, but for beginners, you can't beat the ease of working with elastic.

Green jacket + sheer florals (& H&M spring blazers review)

2013-04-05T09:49:00.000-04:00

H&M blouse (similar), Lefties blazer (from Spain), altered no brand slacks, Louboutin heels from eBay

Living with limited closet space, I've gotten into the habit of rotating seasonal items in and out of under-bed storage. It's always a small treat to unpack and re-discover old favorites, which this outfit is comprised entirely of. This blouse from last year is a party of all my favorite spring colors. It's cut generously with very long sleeves, but still gets plenty of wear layered and under blazers. I was so excited to find this dupe that's even topped off with a neck-tie:

Modcloth Sigh, the Lanai blouse

If you're new to this store, you can get $15 off your first order of $50+ by signing up for an account through here (referrers will receive the same credit). There's free U.S. shipping on orders over $50 and also free returns. I won't be trying this myself as I have the H&M one, but reviews indicate that it may run on the smaller side for standard S/M/L sizing, and a "blousy fit" wouldn't be bad for this style top. Another item I've been eying but already have something similar is the Eye for Ikebana floral skirt (longer 25" length may require hemming) - pricier at $69.99, but reviews say the XS fits a 24" waist perfectly.

The blazer in this outfit is an old, bargain purchase from Lefties (I was told this is like a Zara outlet) and underwent an alteration overhaul for a mere $5 (story here). I love the resulting slim fit, but the bargain aspect is evident through the material and crinkly sleeves. While at H&M dropping off my donations for their garment recycling program, I tried on a similar-colored option (also in black, bright pink, and possibly more):

The green is an inexpensive way to add a nice pop of color to spring wardrobes, and the ivory is very versatile for multi-season wear. It's a poly-twill like material, and the ivory is slightly see through (my black & white striped top shows through the sleeves and back). As with most H&M blazers, the torso and shoulders fit nice and slim but the sleeve quality and fit leave something to be desired. I picked up the ivory one for $29 and change with a 15% coupon from the garment recycling, and plan on shortening and slimming the sleeves per this tutorial (note - there is also a slit at the end of the ivory's sleeves so it may need to be hemmed to bracelet length).

Green blazer, item #086743, Ivory blazer, item #067391 - both $34.95, trying on sz 2

Old ASOS petites dress, Ferragamo Varina flats (runs narrow, 20% off w/ FANDF)*

*It's Friends & Family time at Bloomies, which now offers free return shipping on all online purchases (love that more retailers are doing this!). Use FANDF for 20% off your purchase w/ a few exclusions - possibly a chance to pick up sale Spanx, Longchamp (my durable everyday work/travel tote - Mom asked if she could have mine so I picked up another in black : ), or a classic Burberry trench.

For anyone interested in the Spanx girl shorts, I got sz S in the nude for wearing under clingier dresses. It works somewhat for minimizing tummy / butt bulges and VPL but is intended to fit much more snugly on the wearer than this pair does on me. As such, the thigh openings are a little loose so the shorts hem line shows through sometimes, but I haven't found a better option yet.

Since this blazer hits at a longer hip length, I mostly reserve it for wearing with slimming skinny pants or floor-length trousers. These pants are a ~5 year old find at a discount store with the tags cut off (I suspect the Limited or Express?), and were taken in along the waist/hips/legs. To this day, I haven't had luck finding pants that fit like this off the rack (or even have the potential to fit and drape similarly after semi-risky alterations). Any recommendations would be appreciated!

Closet favorite: Uniqueen Tweed Dress w/ Faux Leather Trim

2013-04-02T00:26:00.000-04:00

Uniqueen Laila Tweed Dress (3 sizes) c/o - use EXTRAPETITE through 5/2 for 10% off your order

Ann Taylor perfect pumps (40% off w/ APRIL40), pearls from a friend, J.Crew bag

Earlier last year, I met up with Anna of Uniqueen who was visiting town from Toronto. Uniqueen has given me some jackets that I love to pieces (see the No.5 jacket in brown (review), No. 5 jacket in white, and the Malang jacket which is a little roomy/long, yet still gets plenty of wear), but what I like most about working with them is how receptive the small retailer is to feedback and suggestions. I mentioned to Anna that I'd love to see more elegant, quality pieces that are petite-friendly, and also brought up reader feedback about inconsistency amongst sizes. She responded that they would do the best they can to monitor fit consistency (as materials for each piece are cut by hand and not machine), and also offered to manufacture a custom size for my extra petite readers.
Over the past few months, I've had the pleasure of working with Uniqueen's team to tweak this "Laila" dress and make it available in a new size XS (fits similar to H&M sz US 2 / EUR 32, and a tad smaller than American sz 00P). The end product is a classic piece that I see suitable for women of various ages, and can be worn three out of four seasons. The trim adds a tiny bit of edge but is still conservative, and can even be concealed by a collared shirt with the sleeve cuffs folded up. I've worn this a few times already to work, and nearly all the women on my floor have asked where they could find it...

Sizing and fit: This dress is available in XS, S, and M, and runs smaller than western sizing. I am wearing an XS here, and provided Uniqueen measurements for this pattern based on some BR size 00P / ASOS size 0P dresses in my closet. For reference, I am about 5 feet tall, ~92lbs with 30A bust, 24 inch waist and 32 inch hips. Since the fabric has no stretch, we left a little extra room in the hips to accommodate usage of the pockets and for comfort when sitting down. We debated on the sleeve length, and ultimately settled on "bracelet" length for a few reasons. I know not everyone is a fan of this, but I've come to like it for more arm coverage while showing off bracelets and watches. A full length sleeve would also pose issues for women with shorter arms, because the faux leather trim makes it very hard to alter.

Measurements of an XS: 15.7" (40cm) armpit to armpit, 13" (33cm) across the shoulder, 12.6" (32cm) across the waist, 17.1" (43.5cm) across the hips by the base of the pockets, 18.9" (48cm) sleeve length, and 34.6" (88cm) total length. Sleeve width 4.75" (12 cm) across when measured at the upper arm - fairly narrow. Also factor in a few millimeters for the thickness of the tweed and a layer of full lining.

As with all Uniqueen items, I can't emphasize enough to please check the measurements on their site against items in your closet. Their products come from a number of sources, so S, M, etc. could mean different measurements for each of their designs. For example, the S in their No. 5 jacket fits smaller than the same size in the Malang.
Quality & Value: When producing samples for this dress, Uniqueen sent me some material swatches to see and feel in-person. I liked this medium weight black and ivory tweed paired with a dark navy faux leather trim. The navy goes surprisingly well with the tweed, plus adds one more neutral color into the mix for easy pairings. I tested the materials to find one that doesn't wrinkle through long work days/lots of sitting, and also suggested adding functional pockets and getting rid of extraneous fringe. Four sample dresses and numerous rounds of feedback later, I feel the quality and design is fair for the price ($133 w/code EXTRAPETITE + ship). It's more expensive than the deals I normally post on here, but is an amount I'd willingly shell out at the Theory outlet for a good work piece, before factoring in alteration costs.
Shipping & Returns: Items are shipped from Korea, and in my experience arrive in about a week. The shipping cost is 10.99 USD to Canada, and 13.99 USD to most other countries (see details here). For apparel returns, customers need to contact info@myuniqueen.com within 2 days of delivery to obtain a return code, and shipping fees are non-refundable. Uniqueen mentioned that many returns are due to items fitting too small, so again please check their listed measurements against your clothes.

I'm not affiliated with this company and don't receive commissions for sales - I just had fun helping out on this and am excited to share unique, grown-up options for women who are typically "sized out" by retailers. For tweed-loving ladies who are a little taller, I suggest checking out the 2012 Malang jacket which I just can't get enough of on Cee (5'4") - see all the stylish ways she's paired it so far.

Readers - Do you own any items from Uniqueen? If so, please share your thoughts and any fit/sizing tips.

Spring Sale Reviews: LOFT & Banana Republic Petites

2013-03-31T14:53:00.001-04:00

Happy Easter to those who celebrate! There's a few sales going on this weekend, including 50% off and free shipping on all orders at LOFT with code CYBERSPRING, 40% off and free ship on all orders at Ann Taylor w/ APRIL40, and 40% off (excludes denim) at Gap w/ code GAPEGG. I haven't been inside a LOFT for quite some time, and was pleasantly surprised by the bright colors and cute prints.

LOFT floral skirt ($30 in stores), LOFT ponte shell (orange on the bottom, $18 in stores for reg sizes)

I love the vibrancy of this skirt and the weight of the material, which felt like a thick canvas. I'm trying on a 4P with the extra material pinched behind me, so unfortunately I can't gauge the fit (but in my experience, LOFT bottoms require waist alterations). I also liked the juicy pink and orange color combination and the neckline pleats of this thicker ponte shell. I could only find a regular XS at my local store, which was too boxy throughout with generous armholes.

Both items are still available in smaller petite sizes online - I ended up ordering the ponte shell in petite XXS, this box pleat blouse, and the Marisa white linen pants in my quest for white trousers without sheerness issues. I was also eying this colorblock shell with good reviews, but already own several black & white items.

LOFT jacket ($45) in xxsp, Gap legging jeans in 00p, Ferragamo Varina flats

I love my tweed jackets, but the thinner texture of this one felt flat. I tried it on along with the dress below only to check out the fit (and in the spirit of Easter). The jacket fit me well in length and not bad at the shoulders and torso, but the sleeves would need slimming.

LOFT Corded Dobby Stripe Shift Dress ($45) - trying 00P

This mod-inspired shift dress fit just as expected, with the length being on the shorter end. As with most shift styles, I would not recommend this for larger chests. I was disappointed that there were no pockets or lining (if memory serves me right) for a dress like this. If you're hankering for something in spring colors, I really like this floral print dress which looks more flattering and costs less, but was not available at my local store.

BR was also having 40% off everything yesterday, but I see it's only 30% off online. ~~This mustard yellow blazer with piping (reviewed here) is now a bargain for the quality at just $49~~ (update: excluded from this online promo), but smaller petite sizes may be hard to find at this point. It's still fully stocked in regular sizing online, with two other colors that aren't marked down as much yet (love the "angora white"). While shopping for Nick, I tried on two new arrivals but didn't feel compelled to purchase either:

Banana Republic Lattice Print Jacquard peplum top - trying on 00P

The peplum trend got a bit overdone last year, but I liked this subdued variation with a slight flared bottom. I can see this worn both with pants as well as belted over a pencil or A-line skirt. In person, the jacquard material has just a slight sheen and is very pretty. The fit was good with a small issue - the shoulder straps felt a little wide on me.

Banana Republic Striped Ponte Modern Blazer - trying on 00P

I loved the fit of this blazer from the front - the collarless design with tapering along torso made for a seamless fit, and the knit material laid smoothly and felt comfortable. I couldn't see my full back, but one possible fit issue might be the lack of a back vent. I was also disappointed by the partial lining that just covered the upper torso of the blazer. Not sure why retailers are doing that more often, especially for items that retail over $100.

Overall, an empty-handed shopping trip for me (other than the LOFT items ordered online to try), which my full closet is perfectly happy about. If you had any good sale finds this weekend, I'd love to hear about them!

Dress Reviews: Gap Floral A-Line & J.Crew Origami (in petite)

2013-03-27T00:14:00.002-04:00

Sale alert: Express is having 40% off everything (plus extra 15% off w/ code 9076 - thank you, Chloe!). If you need work pants, they offer a wide selection starting in size 00 short (runs a little big). I just loved this high-waisted ponte skirt on Kelly, and have been waiting for a sale to order it in colorblock and stripe to try. Based on how it fits her, I'm pretty sure it'll be a winner!

Gap sateen floral dress (30% off w/ GAPEGG) H&M sandals, old (similar in "citron patent")

Haven't done one of these in a while, but wanted to share quick thoughts on two dresses I tried on. I've been a fan of Gap since my teenage years, and only wish that they'd carry petite sizing in-stores too. They do offer free shipping & return shipping on all orders over $50, but my orders never come with a return label (need to go online, fill out your address, and print).

Style: I love the silhouette of this dress and details like waistband and on-seam pockets. The skirt is fuller but not overwhelming, and I can see this being flattering on ladies both with or without natural curves. My only qualm with the cut is that the armholes cut inward a bit, possibly exposing armpit flab and bra straps. In-person, the sateen material is white and smooth and the orange and yellow flowers were more fluorescent than I expected.

Material is a comfortable, slightly stretchy 97% cotton, 3% spandex and is lined in the torso only. Care tag says machine wash cold.

Fit: I ordered a 0P to try on, and would say it runs small for Gap and fits similarly to a 00P at AT/LOFT. I can pinch about an inch of extra material at the waist, but not necessarily enough to require alterations (a belt also helps). Measurements of a 0P: 15" across the bust, 13" across the waist, 13" from top to the top of the waistband, 1.25" wide waistband, 32.75" total length, 14.5" wide across the bottom hem of the skirt.

Verdict: Unfortunately, most of my time is spent at work and I had trouble coming up with conservative pairings given the colors in this dress. It looked nice with a bright yellow blazer, but I couldn't find much else in my current closet to wear with it as a cover-up. The fit was flattering and the price with coupon is fair - no keep for this one, if Gap makes the same dress again in navy stripes or a more versatile print, I'll be all over it.

Next up is a J.Crew dress that I tried on a few times over the years....

J.Crew Origami Dress (pink on sale, plus 25% off $150+ w/ LOVEJCREW), Louboutin pumps

Style: If you can fit J.Crew sizing, they have some good work basics in lightweight, lined 100% wool. I have enough basics, but was drawn to the folding detail on the torso of this dress. It was underwhelming on me in-person, but would probably look better on someone who can fill it out.

Fit: Trying on a 00 petite, which was loose throughout especially in the chest and hips (waist measures the same as the Gap dress in 0P). I've tried on several dresses from J.Crew's petite line over the years and they tend to fit similarly. I did keep one a while back and alterations were $40-50, so it could be worth it if you buy during a sale.

With this particular design, the biggest problem for me was the chest gapping that exposed everything within to taller passerbys, and would not be easy to alter given the fold design and sleeves. The length was also short for work when sitting down. This is odd, because I am already on the shorter end of the spectrum that petite lines are designed for (technically women 5'4" and under), and this dress looks to be knee-length on the model (which I like). I used to always go for 2" above the knees and have come to realize that a longer length can be more elegant and elongating - I sadly regret getting some pieces hemmed so hastily in the past.

Measurements of a 00p: 16" across chest, 13" across the waist, 18" across the hips, approximately 31" total length.

Verdict: Got this for a sizable discount, but returned due to the fit issues mentioned.

Readers - Have you tried either of these dresses, or other items from Gap or J.Crew's petite line? If so, I'd love to hear your thoughts.

Cross-seasonal baroque: Printed blouse + ivory bell skirt

2013-03-24T21:32:00.001-04:00

Blouse c/o Grace Stars (use code ep20 for 20% off; free shipping within Canada)
Louboutin simple 85 pumps, thrifted wool skirt (also worn here), vintage ring from eBay

Colorful printed pieces are great for getting dressed in a rush, as you can mindlessly choose one color in the pattern to highlight with similar-colored solids. I loved the baroque print on this top from Grace Stars with a dark navy backdrop, rustic gold "chains," and splashes of bright blue, marigold, and fuchsia. I wore this outfit to dinner during an unseasonably warm day this month, which sadly has not repeated itself.

I can see this with dark slacks in the winter, and either a vibrant color or fresh white for fall or spring.

Left: J.Crew No. 2 wool pencil skirt in petite (altered), Right: J.Crew wool cafe capris (shrunken)
Both on clearance and get 25% off $150+ w/ code LOVEJCREW

This top is only available in one size (XS/S), and fits similarly to an H&M size 4/ European size 34. Measurements are: 17" across the chest, 12" across the shoulders when measured at the seams (14" including the sleeve puffs), 22.5" sleeve length, and 29" total length (tunic length). The material feels chiffon-like and is lightweight 100% polyester, with the torso lined in a black material.
The XS/S is a casual fit on me, unaltered, and I like that it doesn't billow out too much when tucked in. I wasn't a fan of the embroidered high collar, and have been wearing this top with the collar folded down inside. The only sewing alteration performed was on the sleeves. I removed the elastic from the sleeve openings, slimmed them both about an inch, and hemmed the length to hit right below my wristbone:

Elastic ---- > Elastic undone (not yet hemmed)

Readers - Are you a fan of baroque prints? It's something my grandmother would wear, but I love the intricacy and the historical influence.