Fabulista De Costa Rica*

A Fabulista Farewell

2014-02-13T15:24:00.000-06:00

Four days ago was an anniversary of sorts for Layne and me. February 9th marked four years since we set out for Costa Rica and a new life as expats. And it's been four very exciting and fun years as my blog archives reveal. Our good friends here number in the dozens as do the parties and holidays we've enjoyed together. My work as a travel writer and blogger, and for a while as a Retirement columnist and freelancer for The Costa Rica News, has allowed us to see more than our fair share of this beautiful country. For his part as a retiree, Layne completed his excellent novel, Moral Turpitude, and it is now available in Kindle format on Amazon.com where it's receiving 5 star reviews. For an exciting fun read, check it out. I'm very proud of him and am urging him on to the second book in the series.

My mom in younger years as an
1880's schoolmarm at For Concho

Yet the one thing you can count on in life is Change. And change we must, as we begin to close down our life here in Pura Vida-land and head for West Texas to live with my elderly mom. She lives alone but she still has a job at the Visitor's Center one day a week and volunteers at the hospital and Fort Concho, driving herself around town as needed. Still, she's had us fooled for a long time, I think, with her busy life and independent ways. After a six-week visit with her last fall, we began to see how everyday things are hard for her and that she could definitely use our help. So about a month from now, we'll pack up our last bags and bundle up our beloved dog Winston and take off for San Angelo. But to paraphrase an old song, "Don't Cry for Us, Costa Rica." Our love affair with this small country won't end with our departure; we will undoubtedly return for visits with friends. But this blog will end, unfortunately, and I expect this will be my final post.

Out the airport waiting room window

But let's not part, dear readers, before a report on one of my latest adventures. I recently returned to Texas for a two-week visit with my mom, where the weather was beyond nuts! Sunny and almost hot one day and then a drop overnight to 17 degrees! How the heck do you dress for such a climate? We're going to miss "el clima mejor del mundo," that's for sure! And to top it off, the day I was to depart for Costa Rica, it was colder than Antarctica and started snowing. Yes, SNOW. Little tiny dry flakes that were just beginning to fill in the dark spots in the yard when it was time to leave for the airport.

As we drove along the thoroughfare leading to the airfield, the snow blew across the road in curtains of powder, little whirlwinds of white, skidding and drifting along the side of the road. I was beginning to get nervous thinking of Mother having to drive back home in such a storm.

But my indomitable mother assured me she would be fine, so I off loaded my bags and bid her a tearful adieu. I made it through security and had just sat down in the gate area, when an agent came through saying our flight had been cancelled. Indeed, ALL flights that day were cancelled because Dallas-Forth Worth airport was shut down by the storm. They re-booked me for the following day and I called my mom with the news. Needless to say, she was overjoyed and undaunted at having to drive back to pick up me and my bags.

I finally made it home just fine and as you can see, was soon enjoying a glass of wine with my sweetheart and my adorable doggie. Which one was happier to see me would be hard to say!

So with mixed emotions, I bid farewell to all my wonderful readers; at last count, you've logged more than 66,000 page views originating from countries around the world. I hope I have brought some good cheer into your life and shared some good times with you. It is my fondest wish that by writing of my experiences here in beautiful Costa Rica, your worldview has been expanded and enriched.

Hasta luego, amigos! May you always be blessed with Pura Vida!! And now for a little look back....

What To Do When the Taxi Goes "Boom!"

2014-01-16T13:11:00.002-06:00

Winston and I had a little adventure today as we returned home by taxi from his vet appointment. Even the vet appointment was something of an adventure, or perhaps more of a nightmare for poor Winnie. This was a re-check on his skin problem, trying to rid him of mites causing mange, resulting in spots of hair loss. And if the hair loss itself wasn't bad enough I took a friend's advice and tried hydrogen peroxide on the spots, resulting in a spotty bleach job! Poor Winnie!

Winston is muy guapo perro - very handsome dog

For a doggie as beautiful as Winston with his luxuriant dark chocolate coat of fur, having mange is really quite humiliating for him. So we have diligently followed the vet's instructions: prednisone pills for the itching (given in a lump of peanut butter, which he loves!), twice-weekly baths with a special soap which must be left on him for twenty minutes (which we both hate!) and shots of ivermectin. It's these shots that are so awful. For some reason, the ivermectin must be very painful when it goes into the skin because poor Winston started yelping and squirming and trying to lick the spot on his back where the shot went. Last time he had to have three different shots - the ivermectin, an antibiotic and something else - and he had jumped around and yelped so much that I assumed it was just a carelessly rough technique on the part of the vet. So today I asked the doctor to be very meticulous not to hurt Winnie. But apparently it's not the vet's technique but just the intense quality of the medicine. But like the trooper he is, Winston came through like a champ.

Hair is finally growing back!

We were then off to the grocery store, practicing "heeling" along the way, and since Layne was not with us today (that's another story involving a friend with a medical problem), I put Winston in a "sit - stay" outside (and tied his leash to a door just to be sure) while I went in for our few items. In the store I ran into our friend Stephen and we chatted a few minutes about our mutual friend's medical condition. But soon my shopping was done and I went out to collect Winston - what a good boy! - and head for the taxi stand. I was pleased to see our friend and favorite taxista Nelson waiting in the taxi line so we hopped in for the ten-minute ride home.

But about halfway up a hill along the way, Boom! went the engine and suddenly smoke was pouring out from under the hood. Nelson and I simultaneously exclaimed: Uh-oh! As luck would have it we were along the route leading to the Palmares turnoff and the traffic was heavy due to the big 10-day fiesta starting today in that cowboy town up and over the mountain. But we had no choice. We had to pull over, raise the hood, put out the triangle warning stands and watch the traffic crawl by. Looking in the engine, we could quickly see that the radiator had burst.

Winston and I wait in the car with the hood up

Maybe Nelson gets a new car out of the deal

So Nelson called his brother Jorge to come pick up me and Winston and take us the rest of the way home. Nelson says his boss will buy a new car - or perhaps just a new radiator. But he's hoping for a new car since this one has been giving him considerable problems even before today. In the midst of all this drama, however, Nelson still had a smile on his face. Now that's Pura Vida!

I am pleased to announce that Layne's novel, "Moral Turpitude, Book One of The Ange Parker Series," is now available on Amazon.com in Kindle format for just $4.99. Five star reviews! High adventure with corporate intrigue, danger and romance; from the exotic jungles of Borneo and Costa Rica to the erotic jungles of San Francisco. A great read! Pick up your copy here -http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HI25M1K/

A 10:27 Club Redux!

2014-01-05T15:59:00.000-06:00

Last Thursday, only two days into the New Year, was another wild and crazy day for "The 10:27 Club" as we took off to revisit the site of our initial incarnation in the mountains above Zarcero. You might recall the incident, recorded in my blog post of October 24, 2012, in which my innocent request for a potty stop resulted in a tequila-soaked day of fun and adventure. This time the original gang was joined by a few new friends, whom I fondly refer to as "groupies," for a total of eighteen. There was the old gang of Marcial and Seidy, Bonnie and Stephen, Chris and Sue, Eroca and Marc and Yours Truly (minus Layne, who stayed home with a bunged up knee), along with semi-official members Darlene and Glynn, Howard and Judi, and Joni, who came without her jovial spouse Mike. We were joined by enthusiastic newcomers Sue and Rick and Vicki and Julian.

Around every curve, a gorgeous vista!

We piled into a jumbo-size van, driven by our capable (and sober) conductor Mainor, for the beautiful drive up the mountain past Naranjo, through Zarcero, and on up to La Posada del Buho, the Owl Inn, where Christmas decorations and even napkin holders are shaped as owls. As on our first visit, we arrived prior to the "legal" opening time of 11:00 a.m. but apparently they were expecting us because the doors quickly opened to welcome us.

The bartender laid out eighteen shot glasses rimmed with salt and Marcial began to pour. We all checked our watches or smart phones, only to find that the times didn't agree. Was it 10:27 or only 10:24? Who knew? Who cared! Down the hatch went the first toast with a hearty cheer for The 10:27 Club! With Latin music to inspire us, we were soon dancing on the small stage, led by Glynn and Joni, followed by Eroca and Seidy and Yours Truly.

Marcial pours as Rick and Joni wait impatiently

Does anybody really know what time it is?
Does anybody really care?

Joni and Glynn start the dancing...

... Eroca and Seidy keep it going

Eroca and Yours Truly having fun

Rick and his "earrings"

Lunch is served!

But we were there, after all, for a hike so after a couple of shots and some dancing as warm-up, we struck off up the gently sloping road. Along the way Eroca picked some stunning white flowers (lilies perhaps?), which Rick later used as "earrings." Hardcore members, Chris, Seidy, Marcial, Stephen and others made a real trek out of it but some of us decided on a less strenuous outing and soon took advantage of the van for a ride back to the bar where lunch was to be served. We all agreed the food was "¡muy rico!"

The guys pose for a photo

After our leisurely lunch, we thanked our wait staff profusely and left a nice tip, then posed for a few pictures as we tried to get organized to leave. As we were preparing to depart, we were surprised to see a herd of dairy cows traipsing down the middle of the road, herded from behind by a small pickup truck.

Cows have the Right of Way!

The drive back down the hill to Zarcero was a panorama of one gorgeous view after another so we stopped for photos several times along the way.

Seidy adds beauty to the beautiful scene

Once back in town we made the mandatory stop at the home of the lady who makes incredibly delicious helados (ice creams), some prepared using Zarcero's famous sour cream. Chocolate with peanuts, mixed fruits, strawberry, coconut... who could decide? So most of us had more than one!

Sue, Bonnie & Stephen chow down

Mr. Miller is serious about that ice cream!

The "Ice Cream Lady"

After a few minutes exploring the fabulous topiary park in front of Zarcero's dramatic Catholic church and watching kids play in front of the beautiful mural, we were soon on our way again.

Zarcero's topiary park

Seidy picks some "lucky" flower for us

As we passed a field of blue flowers, Seidy insisted we stop so she could pick some for us all. It seems that if you pick one of these flowers on New Year's Day, press it and put it in your wallet, you will have money all year long. Even though this was the second day of the New Year, we all hope the old custom works for us. Whether or not our day brought us wealth for the coming year, it certainly provided us with wonderful memories!

I am pleased to announce that Layne's novel, "Moral Turpitude, Book One of The Ange Parker Series," is now available on Amazon.com in Kindle format for just $4.99. Five star reviews! High adventure with corporate intrigue, danger and romance; from the exotic jungles of Borneo and Costa Rica to the erotic jungles of San Francisco. A great read! Pick up your copy here -http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HI25M1K/

Feliz Navidad, Cuban-style in Costa Rica

2013-12-25T14:45:00.000-06:00

'Twas the night before Christmas

in Barrio Jesus

And the "10:27 Club"

Just had to get loose!

Chef Chris worked his magic

On Cuban pork and beans

While Club members posed

In red-dressed routines.

When the table was set

And dinner was served,

Not a creature went hungry

After seconds and thirds!

As we bade farewell

In the fading light

Merry Christmas, we yelled,

And to all a Buena Noche!

Eroca, Layne and Marc

Gathered round the peanuts

Layne holds forth as Bonnie listens

Marc seems happy to have Eroca by his side again

And so it was that the core "10:27 Club" (minus our fearless leaders Marcial and Seidy) celebrated with a small holiday dinner last night. As we sat around the table with these good friends, we counted our blessings in having shared so many good times together this past year. Words can hardly do justice to our sense of good fortune in making amigos with this amazing group of expats.

Chef Chris focuses on his platano

Stephen supervises

Chef Chris and Sous Chef Sue

Cubano Pork...

...And Black Beans

Layne and I are grateful for every one of these friends and for the many others in and around Atenas who have made our life here so rich with fun adventures and fond memories.

Wherever life leads us from this day forward, we will always treasure these times and these friends. Thank you and Happy New Year!

Crazy Times in Costa Rica!

2013-12-19T17:25:00.000-06:00

My amazing new orchid!

Boy, have I been crazy busy since we returned to Costa Rica one short month ago! When we arrived back from a two-month visit to the States, there were the inevitable reunions with friends like Marcial and Seidy, who brought me a gorgeous orchid as a welcoming gift when we resumed our regular Friday night dinners. Then there were health issues with our dog Winston -- non-contagious mange, which required weekly shots and time-consuming baths as well as daily cream applications, plus conjunctivitis in one eye, which meant applying drops 2 to 3 times a day. Fortunately, he is recovering nicely and requires less medical care now.

Lighted Bomberos' (firefighters) trucks in the parade

Within a week of our return, we found ourselves hosting Thanksgiving dinner for ten people, which was a wonderful celebration but a lot of work for Yours Truly. Almost as soon as the plates were cleared from that party, we were preparing for the visit of a very dear friend, Philisse, who had planned her trip to coincide with Layne's big 75th birthday week. To introduce her to a taste of our lives here, we took her into town the very first night for the Atenas Festival of Lights, where she enjoyed the parade and the colorful array of Ticos, children and vendors in the park.

That Sunday afternoon brought together some two dozen friends to celebrate Layne's birthday, a festive pool party at Bonnie & Stephen's place, complete with a yummy carrot cake baked by Jan & Tom of Buen Pan and lots of delicious food from everyone. Toward the end of the day, Layne offered up hilarious (if slightly inebriated) entertainment by singing a rollicking version of "Pecos Bill" to Daniel's guitar accompaniment. Philisse enjoyed meeting our friends and began to understand why we love our life here so much.

The gang at the pool

Philisse and Layne are all smiles!

Even Nelson, our taxista, and his family were there

Layne blows out his one big candle as Tom looks on

But the busy times were really just beginning. The very next day Layne, Philisse and I - plus Winston! - were off to Esterillos Oeste for a two-night stay at Rancho Coral, that cozy, pet-friendly beachfront hotel run by our friends Wilburth and Eva. There things slowed down just a bit as we laid out in beach chairs just yards from the surf, took strolls along the sand and watched Winston play with the other dogs.

Winston, Layne and Philisse enjoy the beach

Winston, the Wonder Dog, enjoys dinner with friends

We even found a pet-friendly restaurant, Los Almendros, where we enjoyed some excellent Caribbean and Thai-style seafood while Winnie snoozed quietly beneath our table. The proprietress has promised to send me her recipe for Fish Cakes with Red Pepper Sauce. It was outstanding!

Layne and Philisse at Casa Inspiración

But with the dawning of the third day, we were heading back to Atenas just long enough to unpack, re-pack, drop Winston off with our long-suffering dog-sitter friends Chris and Sue and leave the next day for the cloud forests of Monteverde. There we stayed at our friends Veronica and Alex's charming vacation rental, Casa Inspiración, a rustic cabin perched on the side of the mountain with views across to the Gulf of Nicoya. Quite a stunning setting with quiet, peaceful gardens and a friendly dog Schnookie to keep us company.

Sunset at Casa Inspiración

Alex and his surprisingly mature young son Stuart greeted us with delicious bocas prepared by a Tica neighbor Gisell and her lovely daughter.

The next day Philisse and I were off to Sky Adventures for a bird's-eye view of the cloud forest on the Sky Tram. With blue skies as a backdrop and a strong wind whipping our hair, we savored the slow ride up to the top of Costa Rica's Continental Divide, to about 5800' elevation. Our guide Daniel said the winds were probably around 80 kph, or some 50 mph, and it felt like it! But the tram was stable and secure and we soon hopped out onto the observation platform to take a leisurely look at the dramatic scenery, including a glimpse of Arenal Volcano and distant Lake Arenal. After our return to the lower level, Daniel invited us to take a walk through their Hummingbird Trail, where many exotic species of the little aviators abound along with a number of stunning trees, plants and flowers, including some tiny orchid species that would have gone unnoticed but for Daniel's commentary.

Amazing views from the Sky Tram

Philisse on the observation platform

Such beautiful flowers!

Such vivid colors!

Philisse shoots a "Hot Lips" flower

Daniel poses with "Elephant Ears"

Philisse goes for just one more photo!

And yet again, it was soon time to leave Monteverde and return to Atenas for Philisse's final few days with us. We had such a great time showing off our beloved Costa Rica to our old friend. We can only hope that she had as good a time as we did, and that now she understands what we mean when we say: Pura Vida!

Check out Layne's novel "Moral Turpitude," Kindle edition now available for only $4.99 at Amazon.com. Five star reviews! High adventure with corporate intrigue, danger and romance; from the exotic jungles of Borneo and Costa Rica to the erotic jungles of San Francisco. A great read! Pick up your copy here -http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HI25M1K/

Playing Catch Up

2013-11-21T15:48:00.002-06:00

Our two months in the States is over and here we are back in beautiful Costa Rica. It is absolutely wonderful to be here again! But I do face a challenge in trying to summarize for you all the joys and sorrows, adventures and misadventures we had in our travels.

Our first two weeks were spent with my mom in San Angelo in West Texas, where some of the all-time best barbeque can be found. And find it we did, rather often. Our favorite place was Bodacious Barbeque where the chopped brisket and baked beans are a standout.

Chili Relleno at Henry's

But we also wanted some Tex-Mex, chock-full of the spices and chilies that we miss in Costa Rican food. Armenta's, Los Panchito's and Henry's all fit the bill; we enjoyed enchiladas, tacos, chili rellenos and nachos to our heart's content.

One of the main attractions for us in San Angelo is Sealy Flats Blues Bar and Diner, where live music is on stage most every night. Lucky for us, my old friend world-class blues diva Candye Kane was playing there just a week into our stay. With help from her outstanding band, featuring that killer lead guitarist Laura Chavez, Candye brings the house down every time she steps on stage decked out in one of her sparkly, spangled costumes. We made it to the club for two of the three nights she performed and loved every minute.

Candye and Yours Truly

But it was soon time to head for Portland where much less happy duties awaited us. With Layne's sister Annie in the last stages of cancer and suffering as well from Alzheimer's, we knew that her time with us was limited, and indeed, she passed away only days after our arrival. Then the sad task of planning her memorial service fell to us and a few other loving relatives, culminating in a beautiful and remarkably celebratory event honoring her life of love and devotion to family and friends.

Fun in the cold!

Our work in preparing and conducting the memorial service meant canceling our trip to California to see my son Damian and grandson Kai, a missed contact that we deeply regretted. But we did manage to drive to Central Oregon for an overnight visit with Penny and Joel, very dear friends from our horseback-riding days in California. Although the weather was a bit chilly for Layne and me, accustomed as we are to the tropics, Penny served up delicious food as always, and Joel entertained us with his wry humor. It was as if we had been together only the day before.

Upon our return to Portland, we found time for a few walks enjoying the beautiful fall colors and watching a family of muskrats gamboling along Fanno Creek trails.

But soon it was time for us to return to Texas where we planned to spend most of our two-month stay helping my mom with some of the projects around her house and getting the upstairs in shape for our eventual residency there next spring. Now that my mom is a woman "of a certain age," Layne and I feel that we need to be with her to make her life a little easier. She's a very independent person and we respect that, but we also know that some things have become difficult or painful for her so we plan to step in to ease the load a little. Besides, it's free rent!

Even in the last days of our trip, we managed to squeeze in a very brief, but utterly wonderful visit to rugged and scenic Big Bend National Park in southwest Texas. Our good friends Sally and Leonard, expats we met here in Costa Rica a few years ago, last spring decided to return to the U.S. They bought a luxurious big RV and are now serving as volunteer hosts at national parks around the nation, feeding their unquenchable taste for adventure. It was our good fortune that they had just begun a gig at Big Bend and when they invited us to visit, my mother urged us to go. She had visited Big Bend some years ago and she assured us it was not to be missed, especially with well-trained hosts to guide us. And by Texas standards, it was not all that far away: only a four to five hour drive!

So we rented a car and drove across the boring West Texas landscape to Big Bend, which turned out to be a stunning park of amazing geologic formations and extravagant desert vistas. Our first afternoon there, with Sally doing volunteer work in the Visitor's Center, Leonard drove us for miles around the huge park, all the way down to the Texas-Mexico border of the Rio Grande and Santa Elena Canyon, a truly astounding panorama of vertical cliffs running along the shallow meandering river channel.

Our guide Leonard points out the geology

Solitary hiker at Santa Elena Canyon: Mexico on the left, Texas on the right

The next morning all four of us made the drive up to Chisos Basin, a magical valley at 5400' elevation held in the embrace of huge rock formations and monstrous volcanic peaks such as Casa Grande, which towers over the Basin at 7300 feet. As we enjoyed the breakfast buffet and the view through the "Window" to the desert far below, we had the good luck to see a mother black bear and her two cubs scrambling down the side of a nearby hill. Unfortunately, the battery on my camera was dead and Sally's shots on her phone didn't quite work but what a thrill it was to see these animals in their own habitat and to enjoy spectacular Big Bend National Park.

Soon it was back to San Angelo and last preparations for our return to Costa Rica and the happy reunion with our adorable puppy Winston. No longer the little insecure fellow we left in the excellent care of our friends Chris and Sue, now he's all grown up and well deserves his nickname: The Moose!

Check out Layne's novel "Moral Turpitude," Kindle edition now available for only $4.99 at Amazon.com. Five star reviews! High adventure with corporate intrigue, danger and romance; from the exotic jungles of Borneo and Costa Rica to the erotic jungles of San Francisco. A great read! Pick up your copy here -http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HI25M1K/

Love and the Power of Puppies

2013-09-15T14:18:00.001-06:00

Happy Independence Day, Costa Rica! Layne and I are missing the parades and festivities today, preparing for our departure on Wednesday, but we share an appreciation of the freedoms with which this nation is blessed. Those of us who live in a democracy with fundamental rights guaranteed and a voice in our government should count our blessings every day and recognize our good fortune as compared to many others around the world. (Here are local students practicing their parade routine without the blue, red and white banners they will carry in today's Independence Day parade.)

Yes, I know I said my most recent post would probably be my last for a couple of months but our life with Winston just demands a short piece today. We are so very grateful to our friends Chris and Sue for agreeing to provide him a loving foster home while we're away but we do dread leaving the little guy behind. He adds such delight to everyday things. Just a short walk around the neighborhood can turn into a special moment.

Yesterday I took him out to practice his "heel," "sit" and "come" commands, hoping to leave a more well-mannered doggie with Chris and Sue. After a little refresher course under our carport, he and I headed down a quiet road nearby that has few loose dogs or fast cars to bother us. Toward the end of this street is a house with a bunch of dogs behind fences that always set up a clamor of barking as we walk by. As made our way up the next hill, I looked behind us to see the Tico gentleman of the house following us with a little bundle in his arms. As he approached, I realized he was carrying two very small puppies.

The man has often greeted us on our walks, calling out "buenos dias" and shushing his pack of hounds for our benefit, occasionally coming out to the road to chat with us in Spanish. So yesterday I stopped and held a curious Winston in check while he came up the hill toward us with his arms full of puppy.

And adorable puppies they were, so small, hardly a few weeks old, I would say. He explained that their mother had been killed on the road only one day after they were born and of the five puppies left orphaned, only these two had survived. He showed me their docked tails, a natural trait he said, and shared their Spanish names, which I didn't understand, of course. Counting these two, he said he now has ten dogs! Yikes!

It was then I realized what a cool photo he and his pups would make so with his permission, I took a couple of shots and showed them to him, gaining a big smile for my trouble. As he walked back to his house, he sat the puppies down on the road and encouraged them to "venga," or come along behind him. It made a very cute scene.

Winston and I soon turned around and hiked back toward home. When I heard a pickup truck behind us we stepped off the road so it could pass, but instead, it stopped and the old gentleman asked me to show his friends the photos I had taken. He then asked if I could print copies for him, which I readily agreed to do, hoping I would find time to get them back to him.

Yours Truly with our own puppy Winston

So this morning Layne, Winston and I retraced our steps from yesterday, stopping by his house

with the prints. He invited us in, got the puppies again and showed them to Layne, fairly beaming with pride as he told the story of saving their lives, finding a way to feed them, keeping them warm with an electric pad. He thanked us for the pictures and we bid him and his pups adieu until we return in November.

And now, once again, I bid you adieu as well. Pura Vida!

Hasta La Vista, Costa Rica!

2013-09-07T16:20:00.002-06:00

It's time to get packing, as they say. Layne and I head for the U.S. in a little over a week, so I expect this will be my last post for a while. Between planning and packing what to take and what to store, last minute doctor and dentist appointments, a few dinner dates to keep and the arrangements still to be made for Winston with his foster parents Chris and Sue, I don't expect to have much time for writing.

The next two months will find us scurrying from Texas to Oregon, to Washington then down to California to see our two sons and their families, before returning to spend the last few weeks with my mom in West Texas. There will likely be adventures to relate along the way, such as a possible trip to Kilgore, Texas, for my 50th high school reunion, so check back from time to time but don't hold your breath waiting on my next post.

Of course, it's hard to leave Costa Rica and all our adventures and fun outings here. Just in the last week we've enjoyed a big Labor Day BBQ at Chris and Sue's and a "cedula celebration" at Joni and Mike's. As mentioned in my last post, my cooking assignment for the BBQ was to prepare baked beans for a crowd. Using home cooked red beans, leftover black beans made with Marcial's sausage and a few cans of Goya vegetarian and jalapeno beans, all seasoned with onion, green pepper, garlic, brown sugar, catsup and mustard, topped with a layer of bacon, I managed to fill a big Pyrex pan. And in all immodesty, I must say it was a popular dish - there was just barely enough. The rest of the meal was equally splendid, with yummy contributions from everyone.

Pineapple as pretty as Seidy!

Seidy and Daniel relax after all that good food

And of course, Chef Chris does know how to burn some ribs. With his excellent homemade BBQ sauce, it was just perfect. The only glitch came in the form of the predictable afternoon downpour, which did put a damper on plans for pool volleyball. Boy, can it rain here!

But we didn't care. We just hung out in the huge main room at Chris and Sue's place, eating, talking, laughing and listening to music.

On Wednesday we taxied up to Joni and Mike's spectacular rental in the mountain village of Plancillo in Mercedes. What a view! What a house! A big modern four-bedroom home with a casita behind, situated on a huge piece of manicured land, partly covered in mango trees. It is really quite a fabulous place. The party was to celebrate their achieving legal residency here in Costa Rica, definitely a milestone worthy of a fiesta. Sitting out in the large covered veranda overlooking a panoramic view of surrounding mountains with Atenas in the distance, we enjoyed visiting with the "regulars" and meeting some new friends while we sipped wine and nibbled on great hors d'oeuvres. The crab dip was especially delicious and of course, we all love bite-sized pieces of Marcial's sausage. To crown the day, which happened to be Sue's birthday, Joni had bought a splendid chocolate cake. Only the cake maker had somehow put "Happy Birthday, Zoe" instead of Sue across the icing. When we all sang Happy Birthday to her, the last line came out as "Happy Birthday, dear Zoe," which prompted a big laugh and the inevitable comment: Pura Vida!

So for now we must say adios to our pleasant life here in "paradise" and head for northern climes but we look forward to seeing family and friends in the States. No doubt there will be some good times there as well. Hasta luego, amigos!

The Hard Life of a Costa Rica Retiree

2013-08-30T14:18:00.000-06:00

The life of a semi-retiree is not easy, no matter what you may have heard. First of all, there are all those books to read. And don't think reading is just a luxury of time on your hands. Hardly. For instance, it was important for me to read Isaac's Storm by Erik Larson in advance of our trip to Galveston with my mother later this month. How else to understand and really appreciate what that city went through in September of 1900 when a massive hurricane struck the totally unprepared island?

And then there are the dinner parties to prepare for or attend. Last night, for instance, with Darlene and Glynn coming over, there was chicken to marinate, cucumber salad to prep and garlic toasts to cook for dipping in hummus. Then tonight we'll be entertaining Marcial and Seidy, as we do most every Friday night. So today I face preparing a salad, working on a new baked French Fried Potato dish and shaping the hamburger "steaks" not to mention frying the bacon to go on top. But even then, I'm not done, for tomorrow is another big Santa Eulalia gang aka "10:27 Club" bash, a Labor Day BBQ at Chris and Sue's house. For that, I have to cook enough baked beans for 14 people. I'm thinking of offering my services to "Iron Chef" on the Food Network!

What a thrill to see a humpback breach!
(Photo courtesy of NPS.gov.)

Keep in mind I'm not a completely retired individual. I still work hard at my travel writing, especially taking those great mostly-free trips that Layne and I enjoy so much. A few days after our friend Brittany left, Layne and I headed out to Dominical, one of our favorite beach towns here in Costa Rica, to stay again at one of our favorite hotels, Villas Rio Mar, a comfortable and affordable eco-lodge. It was Villas Rio Mar that invited us back, this time to take a complimentary whale and dolphin watching tour. It seems they got such a good response from my last story on their hotel in The Costa Rica News (TCRN) that they wanted me to write another piece, this time focused on the upcoming whale season, when hundreds of humpback whales visit the shores of Marino Ballena National Park just down the road from Dominical. Watch for my story on that trip in this Sunday's edition of TCRN.

Then there's our puppy Winston. Yes, he is indeed a great source of joy and his antics make for some funny scenes, but raising a young Lab is not all fun and games. There's his training, for example, which I'm happy to report is now going very well since the addition of "treats" to our curriculum. Boy, does he pay attention to me NOW when I say "heel." He's improved so much we even felt comfortable taking him out with the gang for a hike last weekend, him in a borrowed harness and extendable leash. He loved it!

Hiking through El Pueblo

Sniff, sniff. And what is THIS?

So many good sniffs to be had, so many new sights to see and so much trouble to try and get into. But with Layne and I heading to the US in a couple of weeks, we have been desperate to figure out the best place for him to stay while we're gone for two months.

"The gang" at lunch after the hike
L to R: Kat, Darlene, Layne, Sue, Chris, Glynn, Bonnie & Stephen (is he asleep?!)

In a major test of one such option, we took Winston up to Chris and Sue's last Monday for a trial run to see how he would get along with the two dogs, Turley and Lola, who live next door. They actually belong to Carmen and Roberto but with them out of the country, Chris and Sue are providing foster care. Another reason for the visit was to try out some of Chef Chris' fabulous homemade pizza. I even got a turn at "working" that dough, per Chris' instructions. And the end result was oh so good.

Yours Truly "doughing" it

Might not be pretty but sure was good!

Winston seemed to have a great time, too, once Turley stopped "attacking" him as the interloper he was. But they soon discovered how much fun it could be to have a playmate and they spent the rest of the afternoon running and playing all over the large property.

Those blurs are dogs, Winston the dark one

We are cautiously optimistic that Winnie will be happy there with our good friends and his new doggie pals. Layne and I have been majorly stressed over this issue. Well, Layne doesn't "stress" about much; I do the stressing for both of us. We are so grateful to our friends Darlene and Glynn who cared for him when we went to Dominical, although there were a few problems in his house-training. Now we feel pretty good about him staying with Chris and Sue while we're away.

So if you think we're just hanging out down here in Costa Rica, laying on the beach, reading books, enjoying good dinner parties and hikes... well, you're right. But it ain't easy having so much fun!

Check out Layne's book "Moral Turpitude," now available for FREE at Smashwords.com. High adventure with corporate intrigue, danger and romance; from the exotic jungles of Borneo and Costa Rica to the erotic jungles of San Francisco. A great read! Pick up your copy here --https://www.smashwords.com/books/view/159570

Brittany's Costa Rican Birthday Bash

2013-08-15T18:13:00.000-06:00

So did you miss me? I have been away awhile, escorting my long-time friend Brittany around the country. She decided she did NOT want to celebrate her 40th birthday in New York City so she hopped on a Jet Blue and spent nearly two weeks with Layne and me and our puppy Winston, who rather fell in love with her. In part, she was checking out Costa Rica as a possible place to relocate where life would be less stressful and less expensive than NYC. Although we spent one morning looking at apartments, mostly she and I made overnight trips to our favorite resorts, such as Bahia Rica on the Nicoya Peninsula and Finca Luna Nueva near La Fortuna.

But we started right here in Atenas with the El Toledo Coffee Tour, guided by our friend Gabriel who sells organic coffee at the feria each Friday. We were joined by part of the Santa Eulalia gang, Chris and Sue and Bonnie, along with Layne who handled wild dog Winston, for the long winding climb up the mountain to the El Toledo farm. Gabriel explained in detail the history of the farm and why and how they switched to organic permaculture farming some twenty years ago after his father realized that pesticides and chemicals were causing his health problems. It was a steep learning curve for them and not immediately profitable. In fact, even now they make less than before the change but as Gabriel said, "Our family's health and the health of the planet are priceless."

Gabriel explains coffee to Bonnie while Winston wanders

Beans fresh from the roaster

After Gabriel's educational talk and a delicious "coffee tasting" experience, we hiked along the steep trails through the farm, learning as we went and enjoying bites of the multitude of fruits that grow unaided among the coffee plants. Brittany really enjoyed the tour and we highly recommend it.

Next on our agenda was a sea kayaking trip to Bahia Rica, a rustic lodge near the Paquera ferry landing run by a friendly Norwegian couple, Vigdis and Thomas, offering tours of all kinds, from sport fishing to snorkeling to whale and dolphin watching. The kayak trip, however, almost did Brittany in as the vigorous paddling aggravated carpel tunnel and tendonitis in her right hand, causing so much pain that for the return trip, Thomas hitched her kayak to his and towed her back to the lodge. Even though Brittany was a bit discomfited to need the help, she did say it allowed her some leisurely sightseeing. And there was plenty to look at because the scenery among the islands there in the Gulf of Nicoya is stunning, although we were saddened to see how terribly polluted the Gulf has become.

On the Paquera Ferry... can she be 40??

Brittany on the porch at the lodge

Lucky for us, Thomas had just snagged a huge corvina or sea bass on a fishing trip the day before and the dinner he prepared with it was fabulous. We enjoyed lively conversation, much of it about food and cooking, with Deborah and Steven, a pleasant couple on vacation from Colorado. Since I had mentioned to Thomas and Vigdis that it was Brittany's birthday trip, he even baked a yummy chocolate cake and served it with ice cream and a candle on top!

Finca Luna Nueva pool

Finca Luna Nueva, a huge organic farm and conference center near La Fortuna, was our next outing and it allowed for some nice relaxation on the veranda of our spacious family bungalow. The afternoon of our arrival, I went for a swim in their big spring-fed, non-chlorine pool while Brittany opted for the hot tub. There she met Joseph who works for FLN as a microbiologist, studying ways to sequester carbon in the soil and plants. When I joined them after my swim, we all had a most fascinating conversation about soil biology and the principles of permaculture. For more information on the biodynamic systems used at FLN, visit Joseph's blog.

The next morning we were up bright and early for a horseback ride to Arenal Volcano.

View from my horse Luna

Brittany in control again

Brittany and Yours Truly enjoy the view

Brittany is not the experienced rider that I am so she had a few rather exciting moments as her mount had different ideas than she did on which way to go. But she managed to coax the beast along the steep and muddy trail to a high point beneath the volcano that offered us a splendid, if slightly cloudy view.

Hands-free! Brittany takes a picture of Cesar, our guide, volcano in the background

Finally, on Tuesday the 14th, it was Brittany's special day and along with Layne we headed to Jacó to celebrate her birthday. The weather cooperated with beautiful sunshine and a few drifting clouds. So with Mojitos and Margaritas in hand, we lazed around for the afternoon, wandering along the sandy beaches and taking a few dips into the powerful surf before heading home for her to pack.

All in all, it was a fun-filled holiday. We hope Brittany enjoyed it all as much as we did. Happy Birthday, honey!

Costa Rican Quinceañero and Other Celebrations

2013-07-28T15:14:00.000-06:00

Nowhere does the old adage "Time flies" apply more aptly than with children, as I was reminded last evening when I attended the Quinceañero celebration for Melanie, a young Tica lass we know. As you may know, the Quinceañero is a special birthday in Latin culture. Held on the fifteenth birthday, it marks a girl's passage from childhood to young womanhood and is celebrated with a grand party. But I had no idea just how grand my young friend's festivities would be, nor did I realize what a beautiful young muchacha she has become.

Beautiful Melanie, now 15 years old

Layne and I met Melanie three years ago when we lived in Barrio Los Angeles where her mom Cidia was our weekly housekeeper. On occasions such as holidays when school was out, Cidia would bring 12-year-old Melanie along with her for the few hours she spent cleaning our house. At the time Melanie was just a cute little girl, shy but friendly, with stunning dark eyes set off by a creamy tan complexion. She would watch TV or read and when I learned she liked puzzles, I would give her ones I had finished. Although neither of them spoke English, we became friends with Cidia and got to know little Melanie. When we needed to communicate beyond my Spanish, Melanie's older sister Karen could translate with her excellent English skills. When we moved from that house to Santa Eulalia two years ago, Cidia, Melanie and her dad gave us good-bye gifts they had made, earrings for me by Cidia, a wooden tray the father had hand-crafted and a decorated bottle made by Melanie. We treasure their friendship even though we have few opportunities to see them now.

The doll matches Melanie's dress!

A three-tiered cake marks the occasion

Melanie and Cidia

Mom, Dad and Melanie

But by chance Cidia saw me at the feria last Friday and invited me to Melanie's Quinceañero to be held the very next day. And what a fabulous event it was! Held at a large hall in Barrio Los Angeles with tables and chairs along both sides of the building, profusely decorated with purple and white balloons, with colored balls covered in hearts and butterflies hanging from the ceiling, matching table decor, throbbing lights and pounding music, it was a bigger party than I expected. When Melanie made her grand entrance through the balloon archway in her amethyst ball gown, sparkling tiara in her dark hair, jewels around her neck, walking with her mom and dad, I got choked up. How had the little girl we knew grown into such a glamorous and elegant young woman in only three years?! Well, time flies, I guess.

First dance with Dad

Unfortunately, I couldn't stay for much of the party because Winston was at home alone and he is still young enough that being alone at night is scary for him. According to our neighbors, he howls. So after Melanie's first dance with her dad and the toast to her Quinceañero, I made my excuses and taxied home. But it was a joy and an honor to be included with the extended family for this very special occasion.

Tomorrow night will be another special occasion for me -- Layne is coming home from Oregon, almost two weeks early! The sad reason for this good news is that the family finally had to find a memory care facility for his sister due to the inexorable progress of the Alzheimer's. Since the home care Layne had been helping with was no longer required, he was able to leave Portland early. We were again fortunate to find a flight using the airline miles we had so with just a small change fee, he got a flight. Winston and I are very excited.

And since I know an update on little Winston is probably in order for his many "fans," I made this rather bumpy video the other day; it's hard to keep up with the little rascal.

As you can see he is growing like the proverbial weed and greatly enjoys running like a raving maniac and playing viciously with his toys. Layne will hardly recognize him from just two weeks ago, but I know Winston will be overjoyed to see Layne, as will I.

Chef Chris and his "Loco" Hot Wings

2013-07-22T16:10:00.001-06:00

July 22, 2013 -- an auspicious date: Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge, gave birth to a baby boy, heir to the British throne (poor kid); the Pope arrives in Brazil (yawn); there is a full moon and my Tarot deck worked its magic for me. I was all ready to write a blog, complete with photos, when I discovered that the transfer cable for my camera was not in its storage place. How could that happen when I only use the thing here in my office and always put it back in a small bag full of other cords? Where could it be? I looked high and low literally, on shelves above, in cabinets below. I even called Layne to ask if he had moved it somewhere before leaving on his trip, but he had no clue.

The Six of Wands, Trust

Finally, in an act of metaphysical desperation, I did a Tarot reading on the issue, asking three questions: How did it go missing? Where is it now? And how can I find it? The three cards that came up were mysterious and vague, as Tarot often is, but the last card, the Six of Wands, seemed to offer a clear message: Trust, the card said. Trust the Universe and trust yourself. So... trusting that indeed I do not remove the cable from my office, I came back in here with a fresh eye and almost immediately spied the black cord peeking through a plastic container where I keep bagged spices. I had apparently scooped it up with the herbs when I put them away. As Layne put it, "'Woo' strikes again!"

So lucky for you, I have photos to share of the last outing of the Santa Eulalia gang, plus a couple of new groupies, Joni and Mike, and occasional gang members Darlene and Glynn. Of course, we were missing my darling Layne since he is on an emergency trip to Oregon to help care for his sister Annie, who is struggling with a number of health issues. The toll on family members as they share the load of caring for her reached a limit and they had called asking him to come. He left two days later and will be gone another three weeks, leaving me and Winston to take care of each other.

As you may have deduced from reading our various culinary adventures, the Santa Eulalia gang has

Chef Chris and his sauces

several excellent chefs among its members, one of whom is Chris, whose cooking skills are top-notch. When he learned that Bar Las Brisas near his and Sue's home had a big grill available, he got the inspiration to treat his local neighbors to some of his Hot Wings and in the process get better acquainted, become a real part of the barrio. But, as these things often do, the idea grew to include the Santa Eulalia bunch and why not throw some of Marcial's sausages on the grill as well.

Chef Chris offered three different homemade sauces: the mild, the picante and the "loco." All were outstanding but I really think they mislabeled the loco. Seidy and I had already agreed that the medium level, the so-called picante, was over-the-top hot. She and I were slugging beer, tequila and ice water to cool our poor burning tongues. How could we possibly stand to taste something even hotter? But when we finally broke down and decided we owed it to ourselves to taste the loco, we found it milder than the medium. Chris assured us that it was just our palates having gotten accustomed to the intense spices, but I... don't... think...so.

Hot Wings comin' up!

But no complaints from this quarter! It was a very fun afternoon with Sue serving plate after plate of the delicious morsels. As Chris and Sue, Stephen and Marcial offered samples of hot wings and Italian sausages to the locals sitting at the bar, I told Marcial he was trying to "go viral" at the barrio level. If Ticos learn how good his sausage is, they will no doubt flock to his booth at the feria.

Two Cute Bald Guys

Joni, Stephen, Bonnie & Mike

Bonnie & Joni share a laugh

All afternoon Las Brisas' dance music inspired our lovebirds Marcial and Seidy to put on a little floorshow for us. Joni and I both took videos of the couple and when she showed her footage to Marcial, he said that was the very first time he had ever seen himself dancing. The wonders of modern technology arrive belatedly in Costa Rica.

Poor Winston had to stay home alone while I was gone and needless to say was overjoyed to see me when I returned about an hour after dark. The next day my landlords/neighbors mentioned that he howled miserably while I was away, so I guess he made his feelings quite clear on the subject of my being gone at night. Since their dogs bark incessantly whenever they leave the house, I'm not too concerned for their sake, only for Winston's. Pura Vida as applied to dogs!

Cookin' Up A Stew

2013-07-12T14:44:00.001-06:00

One of my (many) unfinished projects is a recipe booklet featuring Marcial's great sausage printed up for him to hand out free with each purchase. Since Marcial uses no additives in his Sperone products, no MSG, nitrites or nitrates, only his unique package of spices, his sausage lends itself to a multitude of different healthy recipes that accent the rich pork flavors of the meat or lend a subtle Italian flavor to other ingredients. In particular, we suspect that Ticos are somewhat unfamiliar with the many delicious ways to use Italian sausage. For the most part, what you see in Costa Rica by way of sausages are the chunky links of spiced pork or beef, usually called chorizo or salchichon, split open and fried as a side dish alongside a breakfast of Gallo Pinto, the ubiquitous national dish of rice and beans, and fried or scrambled eggs. Papas con Chorizo (potatoes with sausage) or perhaps empanadas, small filled pastry turnovers using chorizo can be found but by and large, Italian sausage is not much used in Costa Rican cooking.

2nd Place Team Sperone in 2012

When we first met Marcial a couple of years ago and tasted his scrumptious sausage, I immediately thought it might be helpful to him in marketing his product to give out a little recipe brochure with each kilo of the tasty meat. We happily helped him develop a chili recipe using Italian sausage that won 2nd Place at the 2012 Atenas Chili Cook-off and 5th Place at this year's event, giving Team Sperone satisfying recognition in a world full of beef chilis. But of course, time passes and as regular readers know, Layne and I do manage to keep a full dance card around here, so the notation "recipe booklet for sausages" remains on my "To do" List, still lacking the critical checkmark indicating "completed."

Seidy, Marcial and Yours Truly in 2013

With nothing in particular to write about today, and being long over-due for a blog post, I thought I would offer here a dish I recently made which uses the Sperone sausages and chayote, one of many inexpensive local vegetables, a native Central American squash sometimes known as vegetable pear. The chayote has a crisp light texture that picks up flavors readily so it's a great companion to the distinct Italian taste of Sperone sausage. So without further ado, I offer you Chayote and Chorizo Stew! Bon appetit!

Chayote and Chorizo Stew

Ingredients:

3 Sperone Spicy Italian Sausage links, casings removed

1-2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

1 onion, chopped

1 chili dulce (or red bell pepper), chopped

3-4 cloves garlic, minced

1 lrg. or 2 med. chayote squash, seeded and chopped into ½ in. cubes

1 -2 jalapeño peppers, finely diced (taste for hotness and use as much as you like)

1 - 15-oz. can diced tomatoes or better yet, 2 -3 medium organic tomatoes, diced, including juices (use fresh tomatoes, if possible, to avoid BPA in the white-lined cans of tomatoes)

1 - 15-oz. can black beans, rinsed well and drained

1 cup frozen corn or 1 small can of whole kernel corn

½ tsp ground thyme

1 tsp (or more) chili powder

½ tsp cumin

salt and pepper to taste

Place a large saucepan over medium-high heat; cook the sausage in the skillet until browned, breaking it up as you saute; remove from pan and set aside. Add the olive oil. onion, chili dulce, jalapeños and garlic to the skillet; cook and stir until the onions are translucent, 3 to 5 minutes. Return the sausage to the pan along with the chayote squash; cook and stir until the squash begins to soften, 10 to 15 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes, black beans, corn, thyme, cumin and chili powder; season with salt and pepper. Cook until it has all become well acquainted, about 30 minutes more.

(Variation: Try using basil and oregano in place of chili powder and cumin. For less spicy dish, use Sperone regular Italian in place of the spicy Italian sausage.)

Adapted from Allrecipes.com

Health Fair in Atenas

2013-06-29T14:42:00.001-06:00

Just quick heads-up for my readers in and around Atenas: Macrobiotica Vida Natural is having a cool little Health Fair this weekend and running through Monday. I stopped by today and picked up a bag of Himalayan Salt, the kind with all the minerals in it. So much salt in Costa Rica has added floride, I was delighted to find this pure product. I was also tempted by a number of other goodies displayed on tables in the plaza outside of the shop. Some folks up from Parrita on the Pacific Coast were there with homemade Austrian bread made of hearty whole wheat, full of sunflower and flax seeds, peanut and oatmeal cookies, alongside homemade organic jams and jellies, some made with sugar cane itself and others using unrefined cane sugar. Also offered were a couple of spicy salsas, one named Salsa Fuego, which I was warned was hot enough to merit its name. Another table offered fresh coffee and green tea, while another was giving away samples of a medicine for arthritis. There was even a beautiful set of stainless steel cookware and utensils on sale but priced a bit beyond my budget. Samples of some of the foods were being given out to visitors.

Seidy and Stefanie greet Health Fair customers

Located in Plaza Central across from El Rayo, Vida Natural is my favorite health food store in Atenas, not only because of the good selection of quality products they offer but also because of the friendly style of the charming proprietress Seidy and her lovely daughter Stefanie, both of whom speak perfect English. My Spanish just doesn't stretch far enough to discuss health care issues and the pros and cons of this skin cream over that one so I greatly appreciate their bilingual abilities.

Seidy has recently enlarged her corner space to make room for new products including organic ginger, chia seeds and fresh herbs, as well as a private room for massage. Her current inventory includes some products I just cannot do without such as low-salt soy sauce, tahini and rice wine vinegar. In addition to the normal vitamins and food supplements, essential oils, face and body creams and lotions, she also sells high quality (glass bottled) extra virgin olive oil, balsamic vinegar, jasmine rice, quinoa, tofu, aloe vera drinks and lots more.

The Health Fair will continue all weekend, with a physical therapist present on Sunday and other health care specialists around on Monday. Stop by and tell them Kat sent you!

Blame It On Winston!

2013-06-28T15:11:00.000-06:00

If I have been delinquent in posting to this blog, it's all Winston's fault. He's just so darned demanding! Always wanting a pet, or a walk or needing to go out to pee or poop (house-training is going very well!) or just looking so cute, I can't resist laying down on the floor and snuggling up to him. Then there are the hilarious puppy moments, such as today when Layne brought home a new toy for him. As soon as he figured out that it was "his," he ran proudly through the house and out into the backyard with a mouth full of plush plaything where he proceeded to thrash the little Santa Claus doll mercilessly, as only a puppy can.

The new dog Frisbee he's yet to figure out but we have hopes for great fetch games as soon as he understands how to pick the disc up. So doggie duties are my excuse for the delay in blogging, ok? I'm sure all you dog-lovers out there understand completely.

Sit. Stay ... OK, we got Sit.

Then there's the training. Today while Layne went alone to the feria, Winston and I took a walk along a deserted road nearby where we worked on "sit," "stay" and "heel." As you can see from the photo, his "sit" is coming along nicely and he's very good on the leash, although I'm not sure if he has fully grasped the whole "heel" concept or if he just likes walking next to me. "Stay" is another matter altogether. When I tried to lay down the leash to take a better picture, he took that as permission to come over for a pet. After all, he had "sat" for a full thirty seconds, hadn't he?

Of course, he's also required some medical attention this week since he went in for the dreaded neutering on Tuesday. All went well but he was one drunk puppy when he got home that afternoon and one hungover pup the next day. By day two, he was back to his happy little self, especially so since I figured out how to bury his antibiotic pill inside a little chunk of raw hamburger. Oh, baby! Is that good!

He is now officially famous, with people at the feria last week recognizing him on sight and friends driving by hollering "Hey, Winston Churchill!" At the feria, one lady actually was so excited to meet him, she exclaimed to Layne, "Wow, I've met a star today!" Such is the power of the press, I suppose. Next thing you know they'll be asking him for a paw print.

On a completely different topic (who needs a segue?), this beautiful Turquoise-browed Motmot landed in our mandarina tree last week and I hurried to the doorway to sneak a few photos.

I love these stunning birds and was thrilled to have one in our yard. I'm told that they are called "bobos" by Ticos, which means stupid because they nest near the ground in an earthen bank or a quarry, for instance, where their eggs are an easy target for predators. Whatever their I.Q. may be, they certainly get an A+ on the beauty thing.

Oh, When the Ants Go Marching In...

2013-06-18T16:55:00.000-06:00

When friends from the States ask us about life in Costa Rica with lots of bugs and other tropical creepy-crawlies, we say, hey, we have bugs here that eat the other bugs, so no hay problema! Little did we know just how apt that phrase really was. But if we needed any confirmation, we got it recently when our rancho was literally invaded by ants. Not just a few ants, not just a bunch of ants, but thousands and thousands of ants! And they showed up in no time at all. We had done a load of laundry that morning in the rancho where our washer is located and there had been no sign of ants, just the normal iguana skittering away at our approach. But by mid-afternoon when Layne went out to get the barbeque grill for me, the place was swarming with them, great huge lines of mid-sized brown hormigas, busily trooping along the bottom wall, up the sides, under the cabinet. It was downright spooky!

Since we were uncertain whether to be concerned about this, we turned to our friend and neighbor Marcial, our go-to guy for all things Costa Rican. Even though it was Father's Day, he soon arrived at our gate to take a look. After studying the creatures up close, he assured us they were not only harmless but were actually "cleaning house." According to Marcial, this particular type of ant comes en masse and in the space of a few hours carries away the eggs of other ants, cockroach eggs, dead ants, wasp nest eggs and the larvae of all manner of other unwanted critters. Drawing our attention to one or two which were toting little white balls on their backs, he assured us those were eggs of some undesirable insect. He did say they carry a mean bite so avoid getting stung but he also said they are not out to get you. And sure enough, within a couple of hours, they had disappeared completely. Who knew?

We did have to keep little Winston, our new foster puppy, out of the rancho while the ants did their thing as he seems to relish nibbling on ants. With their reputation for a mean sting, we didn't want him getting a mouthful of those guys. Winston, of course, is getting a reputation of his own; you might even say he's world famous. (After all, this blog has readers in lots of other countries, including Russia, China, Germany, France, Japan, Latvia, Australia, as well as the U.S. and Canada!) This morning as we were breakfasting at Natural restaurant, friends Joni and Mike drove up and immediately recognized Winnie from having read my last blog post with his photo. It's not surprising that he makes friends everywhere he goes. For instance, at VGym this morning, as he was waiting patiently (well, sort of patiently) by the door while we did our workouts, everyone stopped to give him a pet and rave about what a pretty boy he is. Naturally, we agree. In fact, as some friends predicted, we have decided to adopt him. Big surprise, eh? He's just too nice a dog to let go, a real find, we think. We look forward to many joyful years with him in our lives.

With all the attention, Winston was pretty tuckered out by the time we got to Natural for breakfast so he fell dead asleep by Layne's chair while we enjoyed another fabulous meal at this new eating place. If you haven't made your way there yet, you'd better go soon before there's a waiting line to get in. The food is so delicious -- fresh, wholesome, much of it organic and beautifully presented. My new favorite is the House Special fruit, natural yogurt and homemade granola dish. Today I asked for extra granola and then learned just how carefully it is prepared, using coconut oil and honey instead of vegetable oil and sugar. The extra care really shows in everything proprietress Maria prepares. The fact that she herself is so charming and sweet is icing on the cake, so to speak.

By the way, she is looking for a new house to rent, nothing fancy but comfortable enough for her, her two children and her mom. Of course, we hope to find her a place here in Santa Eulalia, but if you know of a nice low-cost Tico home near Atenas with a yard for the kids, please let me know and I'll pass it along to Maria. Or drop in for lunch and tell her yourself!

Check out Layne's book "Moral Turpitude," available for only $2.99 at Smashwords.com. High adventure with corporate intrigue, danger and romance; from the exotic jungles of Borneo and Costa Rica to the erotic jungles of San Francisco. Sample or purchase at --https://www.smashwords.com/books/view/159570

Going to the Dogs!

2013-06-14T17:28:00.000-06:00

The big news around here today is named Winston, or Winnie for short, and he's a Chocolate Lab mix puppy with amazing golden eyes. I saw him at the feria today, offered for adoption by the Animales Abandonadas, a local foundation that works with private foster homes. They called him Tomi but we decided he needed a more distinguished name. (Plus, Layne happens to be reading a book on Winston Churchill at the moment. Thus, the name.)

Introducing Winston

Winne's only about three months old and has apparently been on the street for a while as he is pretty thin. But for a little guy who has had such a tough start in life, he's very calm and sweet; he just looks up at you shyly and wags his tail hoping for a kind word or pat on the head. Layne and I are only fostering him for now since we have plans to spend a couple of months in the U.S. later this year but we will give him a loving home and some much-needed nourishment while we find him a permanent home. If you've ever thought about getting a dog and if you know the joys of owning a Lab, which are wonderful loving and loyal dogs, please consider adopting Winnie.

Besides trips to the States, Layne and I also feel we should not adopt a dog permanently right now because we are away from home so much, both on local outings with our Santa Eulalia friends as well as trips around Costa Rica exploring the country in my role as a travel writer. Although a dog could certainly join us for our local hikes, it's not so easy to bring one along on our trips to the beach. Most hotels are not very welcoming of pets.

Rancho Coral gardens

As it happens, however, we were at a pet-friendly hotel only last weekend, charming Rancho Coral in Esterillos Oeste, on an outing with our friends Marcial and Seidy and Chris and Sue. But the two-hour bus trip would not have been so pet-friendly; indeed, getting there would have meant renting a car, another drawback for us in dog-ownership. Once we arrived at the beachfront motel owned by Marcial and Seidy's long-time friends, Wilburth and Eva, it was wall-to-wall dogs -- well, maybe only six or eight -- a few cats and lots of chickens as well. So for pet lovers, Rancho Coral is the place to go for a warm animal welcome.

It's a great place for humans as well, especially humans who love playing in the ocean, surfing the waves or just walking on a long empty beach. Rancho Coral is just a few steps from the high-tide mark, its lush gardens strung with hammocks perfect for lazing away an hour or two meditating on the endless rolling surf. Sue and Layne and I took good advantage of those comfortable swinging sofas to enjoy the balmy weather and light breezes. Unfortunately, Sue warned me a moment too late to avoid flipping over backwards onto the sandy ground as I tried to seat myself in my hammock. Nothing was hurt but my pride.

Marcial, Chris, Sue, Seidy and Layne

Later in the afternoon, at the insistence of our strong-minded exercise coach Marcial, we all took off for a long walk down the beach toward the tide pools formed by ancient lava flow and adorned by a fascinating sculpture of a mermaid perched on a concrete base, known as La Sirena or The Siren. With the tide out, she reigns supreme on her dry pedestal and when the tide comes in, she rises above the waters to serve as a sentinel offshore. Taking a rest, we watched some young men kicking a soccer ball around on the shore as the sun began to set in the western skies.

Heading out for a beach stroll

La Sirena

La Sirena and tide pools at low tide

Seidy, looking like a tropical princess

That evening, we enjoyed a wonderful meal at the hotel prepared by Tomas, one of the family members who run Rancho Coral. Most of us chose grilled snook, with its firm, white flesh, accompanied by vegetables,

A great fish dinner!

rice and tasty little mussels alongside two excellent sauces, one spicy, the other a Thai peanut flavor. We all raved!

It was a short weekend for most everyone, as they all caught the Sunday afternoon bus back to Atenas. But Layne and I decided to hang out one more night to give me my beach "fix." If the weather weren't quite so hot and humid ocean-side, I'd surely choose to live there!

Check out Layne's book "Moral Turpitude," available for only $2.99 at Smashwords.com. High adventure with corporate intrigue, danger and romance; from the exotic jungles of Borneo and Costa Rica to the erotic jungles of San Francisco. Sample or purchase at --https://www.smashwords.com/books/view/159570

Puzzles and Poisons and Pura Vida!

2013-06-02T12:10:00.001-06:00

Last week I took a few days off from blogging - or doing much of anything actually - to work a 750-piece puzzle that I picked up a few weeks back from the wonderful free lending library at Kay's Gringo Postre. It turned out to be a tough one, as any dedicated puzzler can tell from these photos, but I was determined. What doesn't show in these pictures are the gold leaf highlights here and there which were an unexpected aid in working the thing as they were quite distinctive in shape and served as a useful guide to where to place a piece.

Enlarged for detail

The word for puzzle in Spanish is rompecabeza, a hilarious term to me because it literally means head-breaker, which is, of course, what a difficult puzzle can feel like it's doing to you. Very early in our sojourn here in Costa Rica, long before my Spanish had progressed very far, we visited a mall where I thought I might find a puzzle to work. I'm semi-retired, after all, I guess I can spend some time doing puzzles. The story of that search became the topic of a blog because it turned into a comical ordeal. Only Layne's creative thinking saved the day and provided me with my first puzzle pleasure in Costa Rica.

Linda and her fabulous Indian dinner

The night before I began this challenging brainteaser we enjoyed a dinner party at our friend Linda's cabina and rancho up in Barrio Mercedes. When we lived in Barrio Los Angeles, Linda was our delightful upstairs neighbor in the duplex apartment we shared. We became good friends, sharing many fun evenings and bottles of her fine wine. With a background in winemaking and a son still in the industry, she knows her wines. She is something of a "snowbird," although her northern trek only takes her as far as California, where the vintner son lives, or Texas to visit her mom.

Her younger son, daughter-in-law and three grandkids live just up the road from her here in Costa Rica. So for about six months each year she resides here, enjoys being grandma babysitter and still manages to run her business as a construction work headhunter via the Internet and Skype.

Since she will be leaving again soon to avoid the rainy season, Linda had asked us to join her and several other friends for a small dinner party. I was to bring some of Marcial's now-famous sausages to add to the menu of an otherwise Indian feast. Sausages go with anything! We taxied up and found her new place at Villas de La Colina to be a charming 2-bedroom cottage with spectacular views of the surrounding mountains.

View from the rancho

Although I'm not drinking alcohol these days as part of the eczema-cure diet, when Linda brought out some of her top-notch champagne, I couldn't resist. It and the rest of the meal were superb. Along with both spicy and mild sausages, we had mini-samosa appetizers, then hummus, baba ganoush, vegetarian curry, rice and homemade nan. With the misty late afternoon views from the rancho surrounding us, we enjoyed a leisurely meal and pleasant conversation.

Later in the week, I made a poor decision to cook some slightly "off" bacon and paid the price the next couple of days with a mild case of food poisoning. As a result, I'm here at home today still getting my energy back, while Layne and the Santa Eulalia gang are hiking and partying up in San Isidro. Oh well, you can't expect Pura Vida every day!

New Eating Place in Atenas

2013-05-25T15:38:00.003-06:00

We just had breakfast this morning at the a brand new restaurant in Atenas and boy, was it a treat! Called Nátural, it will feature as many organic and fresh ingredients as the charming young proprietress María can muster. Located diagonal from the ICE offices, the restaurant's open-air patio seating allowed fresh breezes to keep us comfortable as we enjoyed one of the best breakfasts we have had here in Costa Rica -- and that's saying a lot!

María at the feria

Our introduction to María and her excellent products came a few weeks ago at the feria, the local farmer's market where we pick up our supply of fresh fruit and vegetables. As we strolled the sidewalk where the vendors set up their stalls, we came to a new one. Just a simple table with small jars of green sauces beside a basket of torn bread chunks, it was staffed by a stunningly beautiful young woman. We stopped for a taste of the goods and were delighted with the incredible flavors of a dip made of several finely chopped herbs swimming in rich, buttery extra virgin olive oil. Next to the dip were samples of pesto sauce and marmelades, also quite delicious. But the dip, with its slightly picante or spicy flavor, was just addictive. We immediately bought a jar and proceeded to demolish it within three days.

María told us she had recently moved to Atenas with her mom, who has always lived in the bustling capital city of San Jose. As they settled in, her mother was enthralled by the laid-back rural feeling in our little town. She felt like she had moved to the country, María said, and they both have fallen in love with our friendly community. At the feria that week, María informed us that she was planning to open a restaurant which would offer all natural, healthy foods. Well, we could hardly wait. After the closure a few months back of Cafe Cultura, the most recent effort to bring healthy organic fare to Atenas, we had almost given up on having a local eatery that would satisfy our desires for nutritious locally-sourced food. We love Gallo Pinto, of course, the popular beans-and-rice dish of Costa Rica and several local restaurants offer good food, but for us, nothing compares to the pleasure of knowing you are indulging in pesticide-free, unprocessed, all natural food.

Our waitress Margarita

Well, it would seem that María is positioned to fulfill our wishes! Layne enjoyed a beautiful omelet made, according to our pleasant English-speaking waitress Margarita, with organic eggs and chock-full of perfectly sautéed vegetables -- mushrooms, red bell peppers, onions, carrots and spinach (did I forget anything?) -- luxuriously surrounded by a beautifully melted cheese, perhaps a Gouda. Gosh, it was good! Sharing the plate were three small slices of a dense, rich fresh-baked whole grain bread and a flawless salad in a light vinaigrette. Margarita even offered Layne a small dish of that fabulous herb dip we love. Although I stole some bites off Layne's plate, I only had a fruit smoothie because of the diet I'm on to help cure my eczema. But those tastes were enough to show what quality this place offers. And the prices were great as well. My smoothie, which was a beautiful combination of fresh fruits, not from concentrate, mind you, was only 1100 colones or about $2.25, including the tax, and Layne's omelet was just 2400 colones, a bit under $5.00. Very reasonable.

Layne's excellent omelet

Veggie-stuffed bread rolls

When we arrived after breakfast to pick up our organic veggie order from our friend Nathalie, we mentioned the wonderful food we'd just enjoyed. It turned out that she had had lunch at Nátural's the day before. She proceeded to rave about the veggie-stuffed bread

specialty that María had shown us just prior to popping them in the oven, as well as the apple pie, which Nathalie said was so good she had to have seconds!

We wish María every success in her new venture and want to assure our Atenas readers that you will not be disappointed if you walk the block and a half from the Central Park to enjoy a meal at Nátural, Atenas' newest and best healthy food restaurant. Buena suerte, María!

Celebrating a Saint, Costa Rica Style

2013-05-21T17:59:00.001-06:00

In Costa Rica most every little pueblo has its own Catholic saint, no surprise given the number of towns with "San" or "Santa" in its name. You have our own Santa Eulalia, for example, along with dozens of San Rafael's, San Carlos', Santa Elena's, San Ramon's, Santa Cruz's and, of course, San Jose's, including the nation's capital city. Each year most all of these communities set aside a few days to honor their saint with a fiesta for the whole town and anyone else who wants to join in.

The church in San Isidro

Thus it was that most of the Santa Eulalia gang (minus Marc, who stayed home, and Eroca, who is currently back in Canada) made our way to San Isidro de Atenas last Sunday for the final day of their "saint's day" celebration in honor of Saint Isidore, the patron saint of farmers. San Isidro is a beautiful little barrio located at almost 3700' high in the mountains above downtown Atenas. Atenas is also the name of our canton, or county, so just as our barrio is Santa Eulalia de Atenas, so San Isidro needs that identifier to separate it from all the other San Isidro's in Costa Rica.

When we arrived by taxi, the church service was just finishing up and much of the town was out in force, on motorcycles, bicycles, cars and pickup trucks. Marcial and Seidy, it turned out, were acquainted with Doña Rosa, who had cooked huge pots of food for the event and we were ushered into her kitchen to tempt our palates for later.

Doña Rosa in the kitchen

As we wandered around we discovered one of the big attractions for the day was to be 4x4 mud races on a muddy track in a large open space, previously a soccer field, in the cradle of steep hills. Spectators were already perched around the sides of the basin ready for the day's action, but since we had a hike to do, we decided to return later when we were sure the races would still be on.

So with our intrepid leader Marcial in charge, we headed down the road, now bumper-to-bumper with fiesta-goers looking for parking. Marcial had spied a trail heading up the side of a hill across the way but we didn't know how to get there from here. Never fear! Having noticed what looked like a path beyond a barbed-wire fence, Marcial stopped and asked a fellow who was helping park cars across the road how we might get in. An instant amigo, the guy sent over another man to cut the fence and open a gate for us! How's that for friendly? He gave Marcial his name so if anyone stopped us as we hiked along, we could say Juan gave us permission.

Just cut the fence -- No hay problema!

Seidy and I are across, Marcial helps the others

We traipsed down the narrow path alongside the fence and soon came to the inevitable river to cross. But this one was shallow and easy so I just walked through the 3-inch water in my trusty boots. Marcial helped the others to cross safely. The trail took us up through coffee fields, shade-grown under a canopy of banana trees and other tall nameless greenery.

Marcial and Chris far ahead, Sue coming along

Seidy picks culantro

Along the way Seidy noticed some native culantro growing on the sides of the path and began picking the tender leaves, explaining to me how good it was in frijoles or gallo pinto, the ubiquitous beans-and-rice dish so popular here. Culantro is similar in smell at least to cilantro, which Layne and I love, but I've not found the flavor to be quite the same. Still, when Seidy pulled up a small plant for me, roots and all, I put it in my backpack and have now planted it out back alongside my other herbs.

Looks like blueberries, tastes like plum!

Marcial peeled a "potato mango," one of the many varieties here, and cut off pieces for us - delicioso! - and Seidy introduced us to tasty little berries that looked like blueberries but tasted more like a peach or plum.

On our return trip, Seidy and I stopped to look more closely at some rusted old metal and concrete structures. She described how they had been used in the past to press the juices from sugar cane, using the giant waterwheel to power the press. Then in large metal pans seated in the huge concrete bowls now filled with plants, workers had heated the syrup (miel or honey, as Seidy called it) to render granulated sugar. It was a fascinating taste of Costa Rican history.

The big rusted waterwheel

A press for the cane

What used to be concrete bowls for heating sugar cane juice

Returning to the festivities, we found the 4x4 mud rally already underway. Chris and Sue, Marcial and Seidy and Layne all stayed to watch while I walked back to the churchyard to check on Bonnie and Stephen who had opted not to hike. They were enjoying some of the comida tipica or typical food for sale and shared a couple of tasty Chicharrones, fried pork, with me before they taxied back home.

The ever-popular 4x4 mud races

When I rejoined the others at the rally, the races were in full mud-spattered swing, with some of the cars stalling out in the deep murky pools of water and having to be towed off the tracks. But the crowd was enjoying the day with barbeques and picnics throughout the grassy hillsides.

Eventually Layne and I left the rally heading for the dance being held in the salon near the church. There we joined in the salsa dancing and even managed a waltz, which garnered us a nice compliment from a Tica, before Marcial and the gang joined the party.

By then it was time for the entertainment to begin with dancers from San Ramón performing historical Italian dances and a group of colorfully-clad Ticas doing a spectacular full-skirted rendition of Costa Rican traditional dances. Once again we all reveled in the great opportunity to join with our Tico neighbors in a celebration of their history and culture.

Hammocks, Horses and Crazy Geese

2013-05-15T14:10:00.000-06:00

A milestone: Fabulista de Costa Rica has now passed the 50,000 all-time page view mark! A big thank you to my loyal readers!!

Time to bring you up to date on our busy lives here in Costa Rica. I say "Costa Rica" instead of Santa Eulalia because we traveled last week to a different part of the country, the Monteverde area, to enjoy Bonnie's 60th birthday with her and Stephen at a beautiful secluded rancho. Monteverde is a popular tourist destination, a remote mountain region of misty cloud forest, centered in the small town of Santa Elena almost 4700' above sea level. The weather there is chilly and predictably rainy much of the year. Fortunately for us, after one night in Santa Elena, we spent our next three nights some 3000 feet lower - though only 18 kilometers away - near the small village of Guacimal at Rancho El Rio, a working ranch and rental cottage located along the banks of a river, where the days were warm and sunny and nights crisply cool.

Rancho el Rio

Bonnie and Stephen had discovered this little paradise by virtue of their friendship with the owners, Veronica and Alex Alvarado, who also own Casa Cielo, an A-frame cabin further up the mountain with spectacular views of the Gulf of Nicoya. Casa Cielo was the first place Stephen and Bonnie stayed when they arrived in Costa Rica two years ago and they quickly became friends with their charming hosts. With Bonnie's big birthday coming up, we all decided Rancho El Rio would be an ideal place to celebrate.

Hammock-time for Yours Truly

If snoozing in a hammock to the sounds of a rushing river, communing with chickens, geese and horses, hiking through pastures or relaxing with a book on a patio swing are your idea of a holiday, then Rancho El Rio is a great choice. Veronica and Alex have spent the last few months renovating a dilapidated cottage on the 112-acre property, creating a comfortably rustic and handicapped-accessible retreat. Bonnie and Stephen, who had seen the building before its overhaul, were amazed at the transformation.

Geese pay a visit - watch out for that gander!

With a focus on environmentally friendly construction, the Alvarado's have built a snug two-bedroom, two-bath bungalow with a broad patio overlooking the river and a big open-air kitchen fully equipped for a comfortable stay. Having stocked up on food in Santa Elena and with Stephen's excellent cooking skills (with a little help from the rest of us), we took full advantage of the barbeque unit as well as the ranch fruits, which Veronica supplied on our first day. Other than my having to fight off the aggressive gander once or twice, our days were relaxing and tranquil.

Stephen readies the BBQ

Layne mounted and ready to ride

The highlight of the trip for me was our Thursday morning horseback ride with Veronica to explore the ranch. The couple has a string of mostly rescued horses that with their wrangler Memo's help, they have brought back to health and trained to be reliable but energetic mounts for guests.

The Palomino mare I rode, Soñadora (Dreamer), was their newest addition and although she was still thin to my way of thinking, she was an enthusiastic partner as we cantered up the hills or trotted along in that smooth Paso Criollo gait. For me, there's nothing like the view from the back of a horse!

View from aboard Soñadora

Bonnie gets inspiration from "Spirit Rock"

We wound our way up a long hill to an unusual rock formation, a huge monolith sprouting straight up out of a level plain. We mulled the mystery of that rock in that position and agreed it was a very special place. After an hour or so of exploration, looking at the baby water buffaloes and the herd of cattle, we made our way to the river, tied up the horses, changed into shorts and waded out into the rocks for a cooling dip in the rushing waters. Wow! What fun!

Bonnie & Veronica - ride 'em Cowgirls!

A refreshing dip in the river

Afterwards, I helped Veronica and Memo with the unsaddling and then led Soñadora to where dozens of ripe mangos lay on the ground. Veronica joined me with her horse Raya and we laughed as we watched the horses gobble up the delicious sweet fruits. Oddly, Costa Rican horses don't seem to like carrots (I've offered them to several), but they sure love mangos!

The next morning I took a long solitary hike along the dirt road and enjoyed the pastoral scenery of white cattle grazing on steep hillsides.
Along the way, I noticed a gorgeous Turquoise-browed Motmot in a tree down below and tried to get a good shot. Then I looked up and saw two of them perched just above me on the telephone line and another half dozen in trees nearby. Slightly smaller than the ones we have around our house in Santa Eulalia, they were still stunning with their iridescent green and blue coloring and distinctive long tail.

The ubiquitous Iguanas were also easy to spot, such as this guy crossing the road in front of me.

He scurried up the steep side of the hill and disappeared into the roots of a large tree that seemed almost suspended above me.

Layne and I hiked along the river

The incredible variety and abundance of wildlife in Costa Rica continues to amaze us and we feel lucky to have opportunities like this to enjoy it.

A Festive Climate Fair and Oxcart Parade

2013-05-02T16:27:00.002-06:00

Happy Birthday to our two wonderful grandsons, Kai turning 15 and Orion who is 12 today! Hope your day is just what you want it to be, full of fun, good food and lots of love from your family and friends. And we hope you both get to visit us in Costa Rica very soon!

Jumping right into my topic, last weekend was the Atenas Climate Fair and Oxcart Parade, an annual celebration in recognition of Atenas' reputation for having "the best climate in the world" and its historical significance as a key site on the road taken by the oxcarts carrying coffee to the port of Puntareñas on the Pacific Coast. Unlike our first year in Costa Rica, this fair day opened to a bright blue sky and the promise of a good day for the vendors in the central park selling jewelry, leather goods, clothing, knick-knacks and aromatic foods. There were trampolines and face painting for the kids and music and dancing for everyone.

Monumento de Boyero

But rather than head into the park, Layne and I had plans for a Sunday hike with Marcial and Seidy. Several of the "Santa Eulalia gang" were off on a trip to Nicaragua for their required "visa run" every three months so they can stay in the country legally, which left only the four of us for our weekly walk. So we gaily hopped on the Santa Eulalia bus for a quick ride into town, then hiked down the main road toward the Monumento de Boyero, dedicated to the oxcart drivers who plied their trade along this road since the time the trail was created in 1843. Although coffee transportation has evolved, the tradition of painting the carts and training the oxen has survived here in Atenas as well as in other parts of Costa Rica.

Along the way we looked behind us and saw a big group of Scouts, boys and girls, skipping along and singing. When we slowed near a bus stop to take a breather, the kids caught up with us and Marcial learned that they were in position to offer refreshments to the parade participants when they went by. It seemed the perfect photo op and the youngsters agreed, smiling and waving for the camera.

"The Last Supper" Bar

We were early for the parade so we continued down the side road into the barrio of Los Angeles where Layne and I lived for more than a year. Stopping at the local pulperia, or small grocery store, only a few blocks from our old apartment, I greeted the nice woman who works there and bragged to her on my improved Spanish language skills. After Seidy bought a bottle of water, we were ready to head back up toward the Monument where we planned to view the parade. But it being mid-morning and this being the remnants of "The 10:27 Club," somehow Marcial found a tiny bar right next door to the pulperia, with only a few stools. Indeed, being located across the street from the Catholic Church and having such limited seating, it enjoys a nickname: La Última Cena, or The Last Supper. Layne and Marcial enjoyed a beer (or two) but Seidy and I stuck to water for now.

With most of the audience gathered in the Parque Central, the un-crowded Monument park was the perfect place to view the parade, especially since the route took the oxcarts down the main road to a turn one block away and back up on the other side. This being another refreshment spot where volunteers carried tortillas filled with grilled meat to each participant, we had ample opportunity to view the magnificent beasts and the colorful oxcarts, often filled with laughing occupants. There was even some dancing in the street!

Such a beautiful face...

Atenas High School's Project Blue Flag, made from plastic bottles!

Another colorful cart

Docile oxen gets a pat from his boyero

Marcial chats with a boyero during the stop for refreshments

Beautiful detail in the cart wheel

After the last cart passed by, we trekked the mile or so back to town. Although alcohol is technically prohibited, Marcial and Layne managed to smuggle me a tequila in a plastic cup from the corner bar where they hung out while Seidy and I sat on a park bench and watched the last of the parade circle the park.

Relaxing in our dead-end street

A visit from a Toucan

Always a thrill!

Catching a taxi back home, the four of us enjoyed the late afternoon view from our front driveway. We were delighted when a beautiful Toucan landed in the tree nearby, the perfect punctuation to a day of Tico culture and good friends.

Water and Weddings in Atenas

2013-04-29T15:38:00.000-06:00

AyA workers in our roadway

The last week or so has been challenging here in Santa Eulalia and in other parts of Atenas as well. AyA, as the water company is known, is replacing pipe all along the main road from Atenas to Grecia and as a result, we are often without water for much of the day. Usually, it comes back on at night so things could be worse, but it has been quite inconvenient now and then. Last Friday night, for instance, when Marcial and Seidy were to join us as usual for dinner and conversation (in English and Spanish), the water was still off at 6:00 p.m. and I was in a tizzy trying to figure out how to cook our favorite fish dish, lightly browned Corvina (Sea Bass) in a Ginger-Green Onion sauce. In addition, I was suffering more than usual from a return of the eczema that plagues me now and then so finally, with apologies, I called Marcial and cancelled dinner. Predictably, the water came back on within the hour and Layne and I enjoyed the fish, albeit later than planned.

On Saturday, as we were heading out to a friend's wedding we found the AyA workers practically at our doorstep, with a trench several feet deep cut across the asphalt drive leading down to our house.

Right across our driveway

Does this signify "good watermelon"?

As we awaited the arrival of the bus, made late by the construction, our landlord Isaac brought out big slices of watermelon as a refreshing treat for the workers. One fellow in particular was more than happy to have his photo taken enjoying the fruit. Now that the work has passed our block on its way to Grecia, we are hopeful that the worst is over.

The wedding was a joyful celebration of love between two of our friends: our hairdresser Mariana and her Gringo beau Calvin. As expected many of our Atenas pals were there. This is because one of the first places most Gringos land when they arrive in Atenas is Kay's Gringo Postre, the meeting place/restaurant/lending library hosted by Kay and Tom Costello, expats from South Dakota who have been community leaders here for ten years or more. At Kay's you can get reliable advice on everything from the best residency attorney, to a good dentist to... yes, the best place for a haircut. That would be Mariana's. So the happy couple took their vows at her home in front of many of her clients who, like us, have come to adore this charming, vivacious Columbian woman.

The minister was obviously a good friend as well because in his homily to the couple on their matrimonial duties, he took certain liberties. Standing beneath the purple and white decorated porch, he began by saying to Calvin: "I don't know how you managed to get her, Calvin. You're a lucky man." Calvin turned to the crowd with a devilish smile and gave a thumbs-up sign, eliciting a laugh from the audience. Turning to Mariana, the minister sighed, "You could have done better, Mariana," whereupon Calvin again turned to us, this time with a shocked frown causing still more laughter.

Calvin clowning for the crowd

Kay Costello toasts the happy couple

Mariana and Calvin cut their cake

Then there was champagne with gracious toasts, food, music and dancing and eventually they cut the beautiful cake. All in all, it was a lovely wedding and we wish them every happiness.

Check out Layne's book "Moral Turpitude," available for only $2.99 at Smashwords.com. High adventure with corporate intrigue, danger and romance; from the exotic jungles of Borneo and Costa Rica to the erotic jungles of San Francisco. Sample or purchase at --https://www.smashwords.com/books/view/159570

Big Birthdays and Baby Back Ribs

2013-04-22T17:18:00.001-06:00

If there's one thing the Santa Eulalia Gang, aka The 10:27 Club, knows how to do, it's celebrate a birthday. And it was with festive spirits and grateful hearts that we all gathered last week to wish an enthusiastic Happy Birthday to our honorary leader and dear friend, Marcial Artavia, aka The Sausage King, aka Costa Rica Dundee. As his 62nd birthday approached, his adorable wife Seidy took charge. Keeping it simple, she decided on typical Tico fare of rice, red beans, yucca, home-baked bread, chicken simmered in a spicy sauce and a beautiful salad adorned with a pink plumeria from her garden. Eroca provided one of her now-famous desserts, Pineapple Upside-down Cake.

Feast for a King

The rest of us contributed a few appetizers, plenty of beer and wine and Marcial's favorite indulgence, J&B scotch whiskey. It was a feast fit for ... well, a Sausage King! With his family all there, including his mom Haydee who did the honors of blowing out the single symbolic candle, and the entire Santa Eulalia gang gathered around him, it was sure to be a fun evening for Marcial as indeed it was.

Eroca, Marc, Sue, Marcial, Seidy & Stephen (Layne's hand in foreground)

Plumeria from the yard

Eroca presents the birthday cake

A birthday hug from Mom...

A birthday kiss from Seidy

Since most of the female members of the Santa Eulalia Gang were in attendance (all but Carmen), the event gave us a chance to take a photo together wearing the stunning earrings that Marcial and Seidy's oldest son Felipe makes. They feature a Dream-catcher design in your choice of colors and use coconut shell as a frame. Felipe is making these to sell in an effort to earn tuition money for college.

Showing off our earrings

The "official" Santa Eulalia Gang earrings

Felipe hopes to study architecture at a private school here in Costa Rica but the cost to register is pretty steep. So he is offering these beautiful earrings at only 5000 colones a pair, or about $10, as a way to save enough for tuition. If you want to wear the official Santa Eulalia Gang earrings and help this young man get into college, send me an email at mailto:pksunlove@gmail.com and I'll put you in touch with Felipe.

As usual the rest of our week and weekend was busy with our regular trips to the gym, hikes around the neighborhood and the community fiesta that is every Friday's feria. We always see dozens of people we know there. On Friday night Chris and Sue and Marcial and Seidy came to our house to enjoy some of Chris' amazing North Carolina barbequed baby back ribs. Oh, wow, were they juicy, falling-off-the-bone delicious! Slow-cooked in the oven for a few hours then slathered in Chris' homemade sauce for a final browning on the charcoal grill, they were some of the best I've ever had. (Unfortunately, we were so busy cooking and eating, we forgot to take photos.) Along with his cole slaw and my baked beans and potato salad, we were completely satiated by the end of the evening. No wonder Layne and I have trouble losing weight, despite all our exercise. But with food this good, who can resist? Certainly not me! Pura Vida!

P.S. Thanks to my wonderful loyal readers, this blog is about to hit the 50,000 all-time page views mark! Thank you so much for your continued readership, support and encouragement.

Paddle-boarding With Crocodiles on the River Baru

2013-04-15T16:44:00.000-06:00

On the long, hot bus ride back from Dominical last Friday, I felt a little like Dorothy in The Wizard of Oz, tapping her heels together, closing her eyes and chanting: "There's no place like home. There's no place like home." Although I love the beach life at this southern zone surfer's paradise, the climate was too hot for comfort this trip. As we left Dominical in our non-air conditioned (but otherwise comfortable) bus, the digital display above the front window said 38 ºC or about 100 ºF. Holy Hotcakes! That's West Texas weather! By the time we reached Atenas four hours later and two thousand feet higher in elevation, the temperature had dropped to 27 ºC or 80 ºF. No wonder Atenas is touted as having "the best climate in the world!"

Villas Rio Mar gardens

Dominical continues to lure us, nevertheless, because of its laid-back, low-key lifestyle and of course, our favorite hotel, Villas Rio Mar, where we enjoy comfort, good service and great food. The two sea bass dinners I had - one with garlic sauce, the other in almond sauce - were just outstanding.

Without a car for most of our trip (we rented one for the last day), Layne and I got in a short hike each day as we walked from the hotel to the beach area and back. Strolling along the beachfront road is a feast for the eyes, as you pass one vender stall after another filled with colorful beach towels, sundresses, shorts, tee shirts, bikinis, jewelry and handcrafts. We stopped at one lady's booth for a glass of delicious freshly squeezed orange juice. As you can see from her smile, Ticos are not shy about photographs.

On our trek back to the hotel, we looked out at the River Baru and noticed three people standing up paddling along on surfboards, apparently unconcerned about the signs warning of crocodiles in the river. Let's just hope they kept their balance as a dip in those waters might invite some unwelcome company.

On the same hike Layne glanced across the river to the jungle beyond and suddenly stopped in amazement. Clearly visible through the trees was a very large airplane. How it got there we have no idea, although we later learned that it serves as a restaurant and sits alongside the road to San Isidro de General, so perhaps they managed to tow it into place. But the sight sure surprised us.

The third and last night of our trip we joined dozens of locals on the beach to watch the sunset and meditate on the beauty and awesome power of the ocean. Layne and I had abundant opportunities to experience that power in our daily beachside trips, watching fearless surfers conquer 8- to 10-foot waves that then crashed mightily into us as we jumped breakers in knee-deep water. With the strong rip tides and undertow at Dominical, one must have great respect for the ocean and never turn your back on the rolling surf. A couple of big ones washed over us and had us scrambling to regain our footing before the next one hit.

As the sun's rays disappeared behind distant clouds, Layne and I walked over to our other favorite restaurant, Tortilla Flats, for dinner. While we were enjoying our meal, a deaf mute young Tico approached our table with a card explaining that he could make a number of different items using a palm frond. Our waiter confirmed that he did very good work and so we chose a basket. One can never have too many baskets, right?

Watching the young fellow at work was amazing as he quickly but carefully wove the long green leaves into a lovely container. He only charged 3000 colones or about $6 but I gave him 5000 and considered it a bargain at that.

As it dries, it will harden

Our waiter confided to me that the man gets depressed at times because of his disability, but he has been encouraged by his success in visiting local restaurants and crafting handmade artwork on the spot. We wish him well.

So it was good to be back in Atenas after our fun excursion to the beach. We fantasize renting a beach cottage in Dominicalito, an even smaller village just south of Dominical, and sharing our time between Atenas with its perfect climate and great friends and the Dominical area with its seductive beach ambiance. Pura Vida!