UV radiation from the sun comes right through the clouds, not to mention directly through an office or car window…. The odds of getting a sunburn are slight, as the UVB rays are short and will not have a direct affect on the skin. However, the UVA rays are very long and penetrate deep into the lower layers of the skin, where new skin cells, collagen and elastin are formed.

Here’s an easy way to remember the difference.  With UVB rays (the B “stands” for Burning)– will burn or tan your skin.  With UVA (the A “stands” for Aging)– skin color won’t change, but the rays will cause premature aging. And that’s not all.

When the DNA in the skin cell is damaged by UVA radiation, you have the potential for many types of skin cancer and advanced photo-aging. Within each skin cell, on the DNA helix, there is a “damage receptor”. When the cell is struck by UVA radiation from the sun, the receptor tells the cell it is damaged, and the cell self-destructs and goes away. When the receptor itself is struck, there is no message back to the cell that something is wrong. The damaged cell now duplicates itself, and starts a chain reaction, producing many more damaged cells. This is when the signs of skin aging begin.

70% of all UV damage is from casual exposure, getting unintended sun on your skin.

UVA radiation can penetrate directly through the clouds, and a window, so if you have the “primo office” with a view, (depending on which direction it faces), you can catch the morning UVA rays or the late day UVA rays, right at your desk. The same goes for your trip to and from the office, in the morning the sun will get you from the easterly direction on your way into work, and the westerly direction as you head home. This is why wearing a sunscreen daily, even on a cloudy day, or if you plan on being indoors all day, is so important.

Be sure to use an SPF 30, which is considered maximum protection. Choosing a sunscreen that uses physical blocks (like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide) are excellent ways to protect your skin from UV damage. ZO Skin Health by Zein Obagi, M.D. uses not only zinc and titanium, but also adds melanin, a natural, photo-protective agent with antioxidant properties.

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how cleansers works. There are basically three functions of a facial cleanser: (1) to remove surface debris, make-up and oil; (2) to dissolve the bonds that hold dead skin cells to the surface of the skin; and (3) to prepare the skin to better absorb treatment and moisturizing products. Most drug-store cleansers remove surface dirt and oil, but they do little or nothing to promote cell turnover and prepare the skin for the benefits of the products that follow. In fact, many cleansers leave the skin feeling either tight and dry or like a film of oil has been left on the skin, counteracting the effects of applying additional products. Additionally, they typically include fragrances, dyes, or oils that can irritate skin, leaving it red or sensitized.

A good facial cleanser is usually very light weight, most likely a gel-based formula rather than a cream-based formula, and contains some concentration of either salicylic acid for oilier skin, or hyaluronic acid for drier skin. Cleansing is an important first step for all skin types, but for oily, acne-prone skin, it’s critical. The key to managing oily skin is gently exfoliating dull, dry skin cells that trap bacteria; reducing excess oil with salicylic acid; and neutralizing free radicals. ZO Skin Health Exfoliating Cleanser does all of that and goes one step further–it boosts collagen production. It uses encapsulated beads with Vitamin E – the most important anti-oxidant for healthy skin. For dry skin types, you’ll want a gentle cleanser that will not disrupt the moisture barrier. ZO Skin Health Hydrating Cleanser hydrates, rejuvenates and uses panthenol to soothe, repair and restore skin, allantoin to clean away dead skin cells and support cellular renewal and hyaluronic acid for additional hydration support. Dirt, make-up and premature aging…down the drain. Washing your face never felt so good!

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No one is born with sensitive skin. And it’s usually just women who complain of sensitive skin–not men or children.  Why?  It’s because the skin becomes lazy from the use of too much moisturizer, and intolerant from the use of products with perfumes, dyes and additives.

So once people think that they have sensitive skin, they start using products that are weak–which only further weakens their skin!  So the problem continues, or gets worse.

In order to successfully treat symptoms—redness, itching, and bumps—we have to improve overall skin quality and  reduce the reactive nature of sensitive skin.  The best treatment for sensitive skin is a program of skincare products with retinol, because that strengthens skin, and enables skin to renew itself. A skin-strengthening product such as ZO Skin Health’s Radical Night Repair  is an important step toward resolving sensitive skin issues.  Retinol increases cell turnover which forces the damaged surface cells to slough off, allowing the new healthy cells to emerge. Because Radical Night Repair contains 1% retinol, a natural form of Vitamin A, it replaces what the skin has lost over time, (the ability to stimulate the retinoid-receptor found on every cell) and takes the skin to a new healthier state–and that is important in the treatment of sensitive skin.

The use of retinol, in some cases, can increase skin redness.  Although it sounds counter-intuitive, that is why Radical Night Repair is especially great for sensitive skin. ZO Skin Health’s Radical Night Repair uses an encapsulated, time released delivery system that gently delivers the retinol load over a 6 – 8 hour period, while you sleep. We recommend using Radical Night Repair only one night a week, to start. This will gradually increase skin tolerance, and will prepare the skin, so that the treatment can be used more often. Long term regular use of retinol will provide the skin with the vital nutrient, (vitamin A) it needs to be healthier and less reactive to the environment.

Products with high concentrations of retinol will cause peeling, and make your skin more vulnerable to UV rays.  So be sure to wear a full spectrum sun protection!

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Yes, you can! By removing the top layers of dead skin cells and activating the lower dermis, (where all the action is) the texture, tone and firmness of your skin can change. If your products and treatments only work on the surface, all you are going to get is a temporary cosmetic effect and no real change. Think of the top layers of your skin as a dried sponge. If you get it wet, it will soften and plump, if you leave the sponge out on the counter, it will just dry up again. Consequently, you will have a temporary change, but inevitably, the sponge will go back to its original dry state. If you can get past the top layers and slough them off, you can open up pathways to deliver nutrients, antioxidants, hydration, and the essential building blocks to build support structures as in collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid and healthy new skin cells. The result will be skin that appears smooth, soft, firm, radiant, AND the look won’t wash off.

Here is Dr. Obagi’s recommended approach to producing lasting changes and not just a temporary cosmetic cover-up:

1. Seek the guidance of a licensed skin care professional.
2. Start on a regular program of daily cell renewal, using a high concentration of retinol (NATURAL Vitamin A)
3. Accelerate resurfacing with more aggressive professional resurfacing treatments (microdermabrasion and laser).
4. Supplement your daily resurfacing regimen, with application of nutrient rich antioxidants and growth factors.
5. Use targeted products to treat specific conditions: acne, hyperpigmentation, rosacea, tired eyes, etc.
6. Use injectables such as Botox® to smooth the frown and Juvederm® to fill in the deeper wrinkles.  Be sure to ask your doctor for his/her brand recommendations, though, as not all fillers are the same.
7. Apply sun protection every day.
8. Stay on track with proper coaching and support from your skincare specialist.

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You’ve probably seen those full page “articles” in airline magazines that name “the best board certified heart surgeon (or plastic surgeon)”.

There’s no indication of what the criteria are for being named “one of the top docs”–is it the best surgical skills, the best educated, the best results, the fewest malpractice claims, the best peer review?

In fact, all you have to do to be named “one of the best” is (a) be board certified, and (b) pay $8,000. That’s right, it’s really just an ad campaign.

We’re told that the doctor who is featured pays even more than that–something like $30,000. Then, of course, they get a copy of that ad laminated so that they can post it in their office and lead their patients to believe that they’re one of the best.

There’s no assurance that some of the doctors who are featured are not, in fact, excellent surgeons. We do know this: generally they are successful physicians who believe in advertising/marketing their practice.

We think those pages should be identified as an ad–not masquerade as editorial.

What do you think?

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“The problem,” Dr. Obagi says, “is that stress increases the production of hormones that damage collagen and elastin.”  Too much stress also takes the joy out of life–so you’re more likely to frown or scowl, which induces wrinkles.

Take good care of yourself, get plenty of exercise, and try to get 8 hours of sleep per night!  Thirty minutes before bedtime,  be sure to apply skincare products with retinol–nighttime is the best time to repair your skin. You’ll feel better–and better about yourself–in the morning!

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Stick with a simple regimen, from one skincare company.  If you mix and match brands, you’re likely to have redundancy–too much of one ingredient–or voids–not enough of another.

Your regimen must include a good cleanser, treatment product (that activates cellular function), anti-oxidant (that suppresses free radicals), moisturizer (for occasional use), SPF 30 sunscreen, and nighttime repair product.

If you have acne or oily skin issues, other specialty products will need to be added.  And of course, the older you get, the more cellular function slows and the more repair you need.  So you may need more products–or least products that work harder.

Another benefit of sticking with just one company:  you can generally get value-priced kits that give you a good selection of products.  These are typically positioned as “introductory” kits–to entice you to try the brand the first time.  But if they work for you, keep buying the kits… they’ll save you money.

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Walls can be repainted–any old time.  Just start all over, with a fresh gallon.  But skin has to be repaired from within.

So when Dr. Obagi was asked by StyleList, AOL’s beauty and fashion site, to write a regular column, his first article was about how to repair summer skin damage.

You can check it out at:

http://www.stylelist.com/2010/09/24/tips-for-repairing-summer-skin-damage-skin-sense-with-dr-obag/

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It’s autumn, and for your skin, that’s very good news.  Just as we all look forward to relief from the heat and intense UV rays, so too your skin benefits from the cooler temperatures and less intense light.

And your skin is more than ready for change.  Because after several months of summer, your skin has accumulated a lot of dull, dry and damaged skin cells.  It’s ready for new skin cells to emerge and brighten your complexion.

Here are 6 easy (and one that is not-so-easy) ways on how to re-energize your skin:

1. First, undo the summer damage, and exfoliate—from head to toe.  My favorite, for your face, is ZO Skin Health’s Exfoliating Polish.  It does a great job of scrubbing away the dull, dry skin so that fresh, healthy cells can emerge.  It’s more aggressive than most, so if you have weak skin, be gentle at first.  You will love the difference in your skin.  For your body, use a lotion high in lactic acid—such as ZO’s Body Emulsion.  It’s not your typical smell-good body lotion—it will really work hard to exfoliate and rejuvenate your skin.
2. Fill ‘her up—with water!  Too many glasses of wine and not enough water can dehydrate your skin!  Drink at least 64 oz. of water throughout the day.  If you don’t like water, reduce the amount of caffeinated beverages, and increase the amount of fresh fruits and vegetables like pears, apples, oranges, lettuce—all of which have a high water content.   Don’t use real hot water—on your face, on your hands or in the shower.
3. Want to splurge?  Get a facial at your favorite spa.  If you’re confused by the menu of options available, look for adjectives like hydrating, restorative or preventative.
4. Prefer an at-home facial?  Go to your favorite beauty store and look for a clay mask. Clay can refine pores, cleanse, exfoliate, moisturize and rejuvenate your skin.  Pink China clay, a particular type of clay, is recommended for dry skin.
5. Keep your skin active.  High concentrations of retinol will work to rejuvenate your skin, produce more collagen and accelerate cellular turnover.  Make sure that it’s a potent concentration, though—like in ZO Skin Health’s Radical Night Repair Plus.
6. Exercise.  Here’s the one that’s not so easy.  Work up a sweat at least three times a week.   Take brisk 30-minute walks–you can stop and smell the roses later.  When you work up a sweat, you moisturize your skin from the inside out.  Avoid the temptation of saunas and steam rooms, though—they may seem refreshing, but actually dehydrate your skin.
7. If your skin needs added moisture, it’s OK to apply a moisturizer.  Don’t overdo it, though.  Use moisturizers only as a short-term fix; they can cause your skin to become weak and lazy.

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Looking for alternatives?  Eat more fruits and veggies.  Not only are they a healthy blend of vitamins and anti-oxidants and fiber, they’re high in water.

Here are some of the best:

Strawberries.  Usually on the tops of everyone’s list–including this one.  A 149 gram serving has 92% water.

Melons.  A typical portion size of watermelon or cantaloupe is 160 grams, but the water content is 90-92%.

Blueberries and apples.  You can count on getting 84% of their weight in water.  Oh well, what they lack in water they make up for in anti-oxidants.

Banana. One of the lowest in water content:  only 74%.

Fresh Vegetables

It’s no wonder that veggies are low in calories; they’re also high in water!

Lettuce is at the tops of the list–it is 96% water.

Zucchini and spinach have 95% and 92% water, respectively.

Green peas, which also generally are higher in sugar content, are 76% water.

Drinking water has its redeeming qualities.  But consuming fresh produce has many benefits that water alone can’t offer.

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