When choosing to be an ethically and sustainably minded brand I have to look at all aspects of my business, and especially the materials I work with.  Metal, and specifically gold, is one of the main materials I use in every aspect of my business.  I've talked about how Recycled Gold is a deceptive term and not necessarily sustainable or ethical.  For me, the most sustainable options is using Fairmined Gold.

Fairmined is an assurance label that certifies gold from empowered responsible artisanal and small-scale mining organizations. It transforms mining into an active force for good, ensuring social development and environmental protection, providing everyone with a source of gold to be proud of. Thanks to the Fairmined Standard, anyone who buys gold and associated precious metals can support responsibly managed community mines. 

The Fairmined Standard is world leading in its ability to deliver positive impact to the miners and their communities and is a valued tool to transform artisanal and small-scale mining into an active force for good. Fairmined is backed by a rigorous 3rd party certification and audit system that includes requirements for artisanal and small-scale mining organizations to meet world leading standards for responsible practices: formal and legal mining operations, environmental protection, labor conditions, traceability of Fairmined minerals, and socio-economic development through the Fairmined Premium. It also outlines market models and requirements for market actors (Fairmined Suppliers).

The Fairmined Initiative was created by the Alliance for Responsible Mining (ARM), a non-profit organization globally recognized as a leader and pioneer of responsible artisanal and small-scale mining.

You can learn more about Fairmined Gold here and continue to explore all of the decisions I am making to make #TrulyEthicalJewelry.

The truth is: gold has always been recycled. Recycling gold is not new - nor is it necessarily “green.” As one might imagine, no one is throwing gold in the trash (or at least not in any amount known to have a negative environmental impact), and if they are - it is surely by mistake!   

The environmental issues don’t arise with gold being “thrown away” - but with the mining and labor practices employed to acquire the gold to begin with. If we weren’t continuing to mine for gold, this very well may not be the case. It’s also confusing verbiage for any customer who doesn’t understand what recycled gold actually means (and that it really doesn’t have an immediate impact). In fact, it’s greenwashing.

What is Greenwashing?

Greenwashing is when an organization spends more time and money on marketing itself as environmentally friendly than on actually minimizing its environmental impact. It's a deceptive marketing gimmick intended to mislead consumers who prefer to buy goods and services from environmentally conscious brands.

Don't get me wrong, I used to proudly claim that I was also using recycled metals.  I don't think that most jewelers are doing it with malintent.  They honestly just don't know.  It all comes down to education and until I started really diving deep, I was also unaware of how misleading this concept was.  I am grateful for the group of like-minded individuals that I have found as a member of Ethical Metalsmiths.  I am still on this journey of discovery and so grateful to have a community in which I can continue to grow and share.

If you are interested in making an impact with your purchase, what type of gold should you look for?

It is paramount to understand the origin of the gold. Was it mined responsibly and ethically? If a customer does not have access to this information - they truly don’t know whether the gold is ethical. 

A good place to start is with Fairmined® gold from Artisanal and Small-Scale Mining organizations. “ASM organizations certified with the Fairmined standard comply with environmental requirements that eliminate mercury and other chemicals from their operations or reduce its usage to a bare minimum carefully treated that don’t pollute water bodies nor represent a threat to the miner’s health.” 

Additionally, if jewelers create pieces using this type of certified gold, they are supporting ASM organizations who are committed to better labor practices, environmental practices, and those that give back to their communities.

Here’s how Fail Jewelry is working with ethical gold… 

Starting in the fall of 2022, Fail Jewelry will be transitioning to Fairmined® gold in 90% of its fine jewelry offerings. As ethics and sustainability are core values of my company, I am looking forward to using best practices and the best suppliers available to me in these areas, so that I may offer them to my clients. 

As knowing the origin of the gold and the practices of the mine are of utmost importance for truly sustainable and ethical gold, Fairmined’s certification process offers peace of mind when it comes to knowledge of the origins of the gold being purchased. 

If ethical and sustainable gold is important to you as a customer for a custom piece, let’s talk. 

As I’ve shared before, there’s a dirty side to the jewelry industry. You can learn all about deceptiveness that occurs in the jewelry industry, green-washing, and more in my posts on sustainability and ethics in jewelry here. However, we are going to dive a little deeper into the different practices - specifically as they pertain to diamonds. 

In truth, there aren't many practices that tick all the boxes, and there is a lot of misinformation out there and greenwashing to be sure, and yes, sometimes it feels like we are making decisions that feel like the “lesser of two evils”.  So, what’s a person to do? Understanding all of your options and educating yourself on them (and from a variety of unbiased sources) is a great place to start.

In this ongoing series about ethics in jewelry I am trying to lay out all of the information as I see it, and walk you through my own decision making process.  None of these options or solutions are perfect, but I feel like progress comes slowly and incrementally.  The more you, as consumers, know what to ask for, the more success that small ethically minded independent jewelers like me have, the more the industry will take notice.

If sustainable and ethical diamonds are important to you, I hope this information will help you feel informed in your purchasing decision. It is one of my top priorities to source the most ethically-minded and sustainable materials possible at Fail Jewelry while continuing to educate myself in the ever-changing landscape. 

What Is An Ethical Diamond?

An ethical diamond is more than just a conflict-free diamond. Conflict-free diamonds specifically refer to stones that fund civil wars. 

Ethical diamonds extend to ensuring safe mining and working conditions, environmentally-conscious and restorative practices, a lack of human rights abuses, and fair wages. 

In purchasing an ethical diamond, you are consciously and intentionally making sure you are supporting sustainable and ethical values in a vetted, researched, and through a meticulously tracked process (from start to finish). Truly ethical diamonds don’t look at one piece or one part of the journey of a diamond. And, the labor and environmental standards are strict. 

What Is The Diamond Cartel?

What makes diamonds so valuable? It may not be for the reasons you think. In fact, diamonds are not as incredibly rare as other stones, especially in small sizes, and we are now able to create and make perfect diamonds in labs.  So why are diamonds so expensive? 

The diamond industry is run by a cartel that maintains control of the supply of diamonds in the market and therefore, the artificially high prices. Today, that cartel is spearheaded by De-Beers. De-Beers controls ⅔ of the yearly trade in uncut diamonds and owns half of the diamond production mines. 

How does this work? The majority of the diamonds are mined and controlled through the cartel. Then, they are frequently sold through DeBeers Central Selling Organization (CSO) - which then grades and sells the mined rough diamonds for additional circulation. CSO processes 80% of the world’s diamonds to control the price.

What Is The Kimberley Process?

When a diamond is certified “conflict free” they are referencing the Kimberly Process.  Unfortunately this certification doesn't mean much these days, making their conflict free claims misleading at best.

The Kimberley Process is a certification scheme established in 2003 by a United Nations resolution, following a series of reports which first exposed the link between the diamond trade and the financing of conflict. And, initially, the intentions and hopes for the Kimberley Process were promising.

It aimed to increase transparency and oversight in the diamond industry in an effort to eliminate the trade of conflict diamonds or any diamonds that would benefit rebel groups funding conflict against legitimate governments (aka blood diamonds). 

However, the Kimberley Process is not working as planned.

It has several major issues. First of all, its narrow terms focus specifically on the mining and distribution of conflict diamonds. This means that working conditions, fair pay, child labor, environmental destruction, and other problems that come from diamond mining are not covered.

Additionally, the certification does not apply to specific stones - but to an entire batch of rough diamonds. This means that there is a complete lack of origin traceability with the Kimberley Process. You do know how or where it was mined or who mined it.  You can read more about the Kimberley Process and its myriad of issues here.

Today, the “Kimberley Process has failed on its own terms: corruption and smuggling are rife, and in the past few years, the system has begun to unravel further from the inside” with several partner countries actively blocking meaningful change that would address the processes shortcomings.  I would highly suggest you read more about the recent descent at the Kimberley Process Intersessional Meeting.

So, if a major obstacle with the Kimberley Process is a lack of origin traceability, is it possible to fix this? 

Origin Traceable Diamonds

As I have stated before, origin traceability is key to ethically mined stones.  I currently only know of two origin traceable diamonds on the market today: Canadian Diamonds and a newcomer, Ocean Diamonds. What tactics are these companies using to implement origin traceability? I dig a bit deeper into origin traceability here and learn more about how Canadian Diamonds are different from others on the market here. 

Ocean Diamonds, the other ethical and innovative supplier I’ve connected with, are sourced off the West Coast of South Africa. These diamonds are responsibly sourced by divers who leave minimal trace on the environment. Their diamonds have experienced an incredible journey from land to river to sea (over billions of years) and come with a certified provenance from the ocean with a location map. Their rough diamonds are shaped by nature’s forces. They also offer more traditionally shaped diamonds which are cut and polished into perfect proportions.

Can we expect companies and suppliers employing ethical tactics to grow? The future is promising, but change happens slowly.

The Future of Ethical Diamonds

Trying to change this behemoth of an industry is difficult and major players have greatly benefited its current structure, and there's just so much money invested in keeping the status quo. Consumer sentiment is pushing smaller independent companies to use their market power to meet demand and inspire change and there are a few players changing the game if ever so slowly.

Misfit Diamonds is one of these smaller independent suppliers trying to create change. They are the first diamond supplier I know of to get origin traceable Canadian rough diamonds directly from the mine to cut in unique and one-of-a-kind shapes. Until now, Canadian mined diamonds exclusively came in traditional cuts only and if you follow my designs you know that I rarely use traditionally cut stones!  

Misfit is progressing the conversation of “ethical” diamonds, pushing the industry towards origin traceability and mine to market transparency while also supplying on-trend diamond cuts that their customers are asking for. 

Because of their diligence and activism, I choose to buy my larger one-of-a-kind diamonds from Misfit (origin traceable or not). I view supporting them as supporting the move towards origin traceability in all diamonds - and therefore, I am supporting that work via my purchases!  Are these perfectly “ethical diamonds”?  I cannot accurately say yes - but as the industry evolves, I will continue to inch closer and closer to the most ethical sources available.

But, you might ask, what about Lab Grown Diamonds?  We’ve got an entire post on Lab Grown diamonds coming your way next…

As you can see, supporting the growth of awareness, education, and work in the area of ethical diamonds is incredibly important to me.  If finding an ethical diamond for an engagement ring, wedding ring, or personal piece is important to you, let’s talk! As a client, I’m also happy to answer any additional questions you might have to the best of my ability. 

And, if you fall in love with a diamond from Misfit Diamonds, I am a preferred jeweler with them and have access to all they offer for my clients.

With so many options on the market today, what are the differences between a man-made, aka lab grown, diamond and a natural diamond? Is one a better option when it comes to ethics and impact?

What are Lab Grown Diamonds Exactly?

Lab grown diamonds share the same physical, chemical, and optical properties as mined diamonds and only differ in that they are grown above ground. In fact, jewelers and gemologists cannot tell the difference between the two without using special tools to understand how the diamond was grown.

Basically, lab grown diamonds are produced via technological processes and natural grown diamonds are made through geological processes. They are not simulants or fake diamonds - which are stones that are created to look like diamonds but do not share the same properties.

A lab grown diamond can be appealing to a customer who is interested in conflict-free or ethical diamonds. Additionally, lab grown diamonds can be less expensive than mined diamonds. However, there is much more complexity in the synthetic diamond industry than meets the eye.

Is purchasing a lab grown diamond ethical?

When reviewing options, it’s important to note where the diamond was grown and who grew it. “In the space of a few short years, lab-grown has exploded from 0 per cent of the total global diamond jewelry market to about 8 per cent to 10 per cent. Over the next five years, it could claim a share as high as 15 per cent, according to Paul Zimnisky Diamond Analytics.”

Lab grown diamonds are often less expensive than natural diamonds and often don’t have the same environmental, political, and ethical impacts that frequently come with the mining process. Therefore, they can position themselves as “conflict-free” when it comes to political implications.

However, when it comes to purchasing a lab grown diamond, understanding its provenance is directly correlated with how ethical it truly is when comparing it to a natural diamond. As is true in many cases, purchasing a lab-grown diamond from a smaller and transparent company provides more impact than purchasing one from a giant factory that is simply taking a “better than mining a diamond” approach rather than investing in the research, development, and technology needed to offset and minimize energy requirements.

How much energy is used to create a lab grown diamond?

Creating diamonds requires a tremendous amount of energy. The source of the energy and how much is used to create a diamond - directly impacts whether the process is any more sustainable than mining for a diamond while also considering the labor conditions. Additionally, in order to maintain the ethical advantage, the labs must also work to find sources of cheap and clean power.  The source of energy, how it's used, and how much is used are the key factors in understanding the environmental impact of a synthetically grown diamond factory.

“The champions of mined, or natural, diamonds note that by far the most manufactured diamonds are produced in China, followed by India, and that neither nation is known for promoting high environmental and labour standards.” Of course, some factories and labs are faring better than others, but it can be difficult to understand where a lab-grown stone is from – as it's an industry also suffering from traceability issues. Lab grown diamonds are not always traceable. When purchasing a lab grown diamond, you may not fully know or understand the source of the energy or the employment conditions during production.

Lab Grown Diamonds VS. Natural Diamonds

So, is one “better” than the other? Are lab grown diamonds ethical? There are pros and cons to both lab grown diamonds and natural diamonds. If purchasing a lab grown diamond is important to you (due to price or ethical motivations), fully understanding the provenance of the stone is just as important as it is with naturally mined stones.  And, of course, making sure the stone is from a company that is transparent when it comes to the total impact of a stone’s journey is also key.

In short, simply purchasing a lab-grown diamond doesn’t necessarily mean it is any better than a mined diamond, especially if you don’t know the energy used to create it and the labor conditions of the workers and cutters in the factories.

It also might depend what type of diamond characteristics you are looking for…

If you are looking for uniquely colored, one-of-a-kind, or interestingly cut diamonds (like salt and pepper rose cuts - one of my favorites), lab grown diamonds are not be the best fit. These unique physical characteristics like color variation and inclusions aren't being created in the lab.  While these diamonds are each unique with one-of-a-kind inclusions and growth patterns, they are typically not the kind that are visible to the naked eye.  

The lab is an intentionally sterile place creating optimal growing conditions for the perfect diamond, removing the inconsistency of Mother Nature and the chance that something could go “wrong”. But it's those “mistakes” that make the truly unique and one-of-a-kind stones many of us love.  Additionally the market for traditionally cut diamonds is just too large and spending time on one-of-a-kind cuts doesn't currently fit into their business model.

A carbon neutral lab grown diamond does exist!

At Fail Jewelry, I offer my clients larger lab grown diamonds from Diamond Foundry, a carbon neutral diamond lab based in Washington State. Diamond Foundry sustainably grows its diamonds above ground with hydro power and without cartel pricing and the other negative environmental, wildlife and community impacts of traditional mining.

Unfortunately at this time I do not have a carbon neutral option for the smaller melee diamonds that I use in my collections, but the search always continues!

As the lab grown diamond industry continues to both progress and grow, I am hopeful that the technology offerings and eco-conscious energy sources expand as well as more interesting and unique stone offerings. This will allow a conscious consumer to truly feel confident when striving to purchase a genuinely sustainable stone.

If you are considering a custom piece that speaks to your values I would love to work with you one-on-one.   It's paramount to understand what is most important to you when it comes to finding a stone and crafting a piece of jewelry, and I am committed to full transparency on your options and the possible tradeoffs you might make to achieve your goals.

Contact me here to learn more.

As working with ethical and origin traceable diamonds is important to both me as a designer and many of my customers, a Canadian Diamond one option that I recommend to anyone concerned about the impact of their purchasing decision.

How did Canadian Diamonds come to be?

In the early 1990s, areas with an abundance of diamonds were discovered in the Arctic region of Canada known as the Northwest Territories. From the beginning, Canada was committed to an environmentally-friendly approach to mining that valued sustainability and ethical practices - as well as labor regulations prioritizing safety. “By imposing stringent regulations on mining companies, the Canadian government can proudly state that all of its diamonds abide by the highest environmental and international human rights frameworks and labor regulations.”  

Prior to this discovery, “there was no such thing as a Canadian diamond — as far as anyone knew. Diamonds came mostly from Australia, Botswana, South Africa, Namibia, and Russia. De Beers mined 75 percent of the world's output, much of it tainted by controversial blood diamonds sold to fund African wars.” Currently, Canada is the world’s third largest producer of rough diamonds by both volume and value.

Why are Canadian Diamonds prized?

Canadian diamonds are the top source for people who care about origin traceability and conflict-free diamonds and are some of the highest quality diamonds available on the market. They are icy white in color and offer a lower level of internal irregularities which results in improved light through each stone - leading them to be considered some of the purest gems in the world. Unfortunately, this also means that unusual and unique salt and pepper diamonds rarely come from this region, and while traditional cut diamonds are plentiful, unique and one-of-a-kind cuts are difficult, but not impossible, to find. 

Not only valued for the high quality, Canadian diamonds are one of the most ethical in the industry. “All diamonds mined in Canada are guaranteed to be conflict-free, unlike almost all other diamonds.  

The Kimberley Process Certification is the certification that almost all designers and retailers refer to when they say a diamond is “certified conflict free”.  However, unfortunately KPC is no longer a certification that has merit. Kimberley Process Certification was the process established in 2003 to prevent "conflict diamonds" from entering the mainstream rough diamond market.

However, it has recently come to light that the Kimberley Process is not living up to its mission.  This means that unfortunately you can no longer rely on this designation as it currently stands. While this does not mean that diamonds with this certification are from a conflict region, it can give no assurances that they are not.

You can read more about the recent descent at the Kimberley Process Intersessional Meeting and read more about my thoughts on Ethical Diamonds here. 

Canadian Diamonds and Sustainability.

Additionally, Canadian Diamond mining prioritizes sustainability. Before a mine is open, Canadian mining companies must agree to protect the environment and restore it to its original condition when a mine has closed. In fact, “for every acre of land used for mining, three are set aside for conservation, and major environment and biodiversity studies are required before building is even given the go ahead, in consultation with indigenous communities and local and regional governments.” They also work to preserve and protect habitat of Canadian Arctic animals.  

The Benefits of Purchasing A Canadian Diamond.

Though they are pricier than other diamonds, one is making an investment with the purchase of a Canadian Diamond and supporting ethical humanitarian and environmental business practices. Because each step of the process is tracked and audited, this may lead to additional costs that the customer is assisting with due to the additional accountability.

The benefits of purchasing a Canadian Diamond are clear: contributing to sustainable mining practices, reinforcing accountability in the industry, promoting ethical work environments, and directly aiding the communities in which these processes are operating.  Of course, there are critics whenever mining is involved, and no company is above reproach, but if a natural diamond created by mother earth is your goal and ethics and sustainability are important to you, Canadian Diamonds are a great choice.

As my circle of ethically-minded suppliers grows, I am thrilled to say that I have access to one of the only companies creating unique and one-of-a-kind stones with ethically mined Canadian Diamonds.  Contact me to start your one-of-a-kind stone search.  You can also learn more about ethical diamonds and the potential green-washing in the industry here. 

Personally, I think it is crucial to offer as much information as I can to my clients regarding the social, economic, and environmental impact of their decisions when it comes to purchasing a piece of Fail Jewelry. My business is working to stay apprised of the technological developments and offerings in the industry when it comes to making positive choices. This can make things like sourcing more challenging at times - but it is in the hope that these solutions will eventually effect lasting change.

  
What does origin traceability mean? 

From the moment it is mined from the Earth to when it’s cut, set, and sold, origin traceability follows the entire journey of a stone (mining, cutting, retail, & consumer). Ethical sourcing is not simply just about the stone’s origin (the country it comes from) - but the impact of its entire journey. 

Origin traceability is important for anyone concerned about a gemstone’s environmental impact, the health and safety of miners, and the social impact on the surrounding communities. For instance, when it comes to community impact, is the stone cut and polished in a facility that pays a living wage and provides proper ventilation and safety measures for the cutters?

When answering questions like these, colored stones are more difficult to track than diamonds. Why? According to the Financial Times, “Whereas only 15 per cent of diamond mining is artisanal, 80 per cent of coloured gemstone mining is small-scale artisanal, involving some 30 million miners – and making formalizing the industry very tricky indeed.” 

When it comes to diamonds, tracing the majority of them is quite difficult - if not impossible (as many of them aren’t tracked). Canadian Diamonds are currently the most reliable option when it comes to origin traceability – particularly for those who are concerned about blood diamonds. Blood diamonds often fund deadly wars and conflict as well as human rights abuses. They are defined by the United Nations as: “any diamond that is mined in areas controlled by forces opposed to the legitimate internationally recognized government of a country and that is sold to fund military action against the government.

How common is a traceable stone?  

Many jewelers don’t have any idea where their stones are from and few disclose it. Frequently, even when a geographical location is provided - the mine from which the stone came - is not.  This does not mean that a stone was taken from the earth in a harmful manner or that the people involved were treated poorly, it just means that we do not know.  Like most of the jewelry trade, personal relationships and trust goes a long way, but I began looking for more.

I have found a handful of designers, industry advocates and gemstone suppliers that are all working towards a more transparent, sustainable, and ethical practices in the jewelry industry.  Little by little as our numbers grow we are seeing small changes as the industry, as a whole, takes notice.  

Today, I am proud to say I have partners in gemstones and diamonds that are truly industry leaders when it comes to ethics in gemstone sourcing the best Montana, Australian and African sapphires and Canadian mined diamonds. They have provenance available without asking and are happy to talk about their facilities and the miners and communities they support.  While global certifications in the jewelry industry are lagging, these are the types of personal relationships that I do rely upon and trust.

It is important for designers and retailers to share the importance and story behind the stones they acquire. This improves consumer education of both the negative and positive effects of the industry and the impact of their choice of stone. The more we talk about it, the more customers ask for it, the more the industry will continue to evolve and start to follow the money (aka the customer).  

Overall, the more the market is held accountable for safety, security, and sustainability - the less of a negative impact the industry will have on people and the planet. 

Follow the links to learn more about my thoughts on Ethical Diamonds, Origin Traceability, and Greenwashing in the jewelry industry.

If so, I'm sharing a modern perspective on them. And, if not, here you'll learn why they may or may not matter to you when it comes to purchasing diamonds.

So, what are the 4 C’s? 

CUT. CLARITY. COLOR. CARAT

I’ve shared the traditional directives given when it comes to buying a diamond along with a new and modern perspective on the 4 C’s when it comes to purchasing non-traditional diamonds.

CUT 

The precision of the cut and how the stone reflects light determines its entire look, feel, and oftentimes- its setting when one is shopping in this traditional (or antiquated) way. 

NEW PERSPECTIVE ON CUT:

When it comes to selecting a stone and considering non-traditional stones, they can be categorized into two significant categories: brilliant cuts and rose cuts.  

BRILLIANT CUT: A brilliant cut is the modern cut and is used to maximize light and sparkle. These stones have a large pavilion, ending in a culet.  To speak simply, they are pointed at the bottom.  These stones must be set in a way to accommodate the height of the stone, thus making the ring and setting taller in profile. 

ROSE CUT:  Before stones were cut to the precision they are today, stones were cut by hand.  A rose cut is an older style that’s increasing in modern favor and one of my personal favorites - and for good reason. Rose cuts are flat on the bottom, as opposed to pointed, and they have less facets overall for a more understated sparkle. 

Because of the cut, rose cuts require a lower profile setting and generally sit lower on the hand - which are often more comfortable to wear for more active people than rings with a higher setting.  Additionally because a majority of the carat weight is held in the pavilion and culet of a traditionally cut stone, you can have a much larger footprint with a lower carat weight in a rose cut.  Overall rose cuts are revered for their unique attributes versus the often unnatural perfection that’s valued in more traditional stones. 

CLARITY

How clear is the diamond? The higher a clarity rating is - the more valuable a traditional diamond is considered to be. Some inclusions are visible to the naked eye, but sometimes they are not. The diamonds are rated for these imperfections which include things like blemishes (outside of the stone) and inclusions (inside of the stone). 

The GIA Diamond Clarity Scale is used and has six different categories with 11 specific grades. The clarity rating evaluates the imperfections and how they might enhance or detract from the overall appearance of the diamond.  Diamonds with the least or tiniest inclusions obtain the highest clarity ratings.

NEW PERSPECTIVE ON CLARITY: 

When thinking about the classic white diamond I often advocate for stones that fall into the SI category.  SI means “Slightly Included” with inclusions visible under 10x magnification.  In my opinion, if your jeweler is the only person who can see the inclusions then who cares!

However, there is a much larger trend of highlighting heavily and artfully included stones and cutting them into unique and dynamic shapes.  These “flaws” are now seen as beauty marks, making each stone truly unique and one of a kind.

CARAT

Carat refers to the actual weight of the diamond. Each carat is measured by weight and there are exact weights that are considered premium when it comes to diamonds. The heavier a diamond is, the greater the carat weight will be. Higher carats will usually mean a greater expense.  Cut and clarity also contributes to determining the price.

NEW PERSPECTIVE ON CARAT: 

Modern cuts including the rose cut allow you to see more of the carat weight. With brilliant cuts, a significant portion is hidden - but with a rose cut, you can see more of the stone.

This can actually make it appear bigger. So, just because something has a higher number of carats - doesn’t mean you can actually see it. Often times, the carat weight is held (and hidden) in the pavilion and culet of a traditionally cut stone.  Whereas, with a rose cut, you can have a much larger footprint with a lower carat weight. 

COLOR

As white colorless diamonds are rare - they are often the most prized when individuals are sourcing gemstones in this traditional way. Diamonds are rated on a D-Z scale when it comes to color. Additionally, cuts and settings can affect the color of the stone. What made a white colorless diamond the most prized? Marketing. Read "How an Ad Campaign Invented the Diamond Engagement Ring." 

NEW PERSPECTIVE ON COLOR:  

My thoughts? Buy what you love. Being near-colorless becomes much less important when setting a colorless or “white” diamond in yellow gold.  A completely colorless diamond will reflect the yellow color of the gold, masking its true color.  Truly colorless diamonds show their truest color when set in white gold or platinum.

The variety of colored and included diamonds is vast and why should these stones be chucked away just because they do not live up to these strict ideals. 

Recently, as a result of interest from customers and designers alike, gemstone cutters have been bringing a vast array of color to the market in shades of yellow, gray, brown, purple and pink.

The stones and the metals we use in jewelry are pulled from the earth, often in ways that harm the environment and exploit the poorer workers and communities that live around these resources.

However, do not lose hope, you can find a way to create jewelry that reflects your values of sustainability.  There isn’t a perfectly sustainable solution for this problem, however if we all strive to do better, the earth and humanity will benefit from our actions. 

I’ve included a list of my favorite ethically-mined and cut stones as well as materials and phrases to watch out for. This list is by no means comprehensive but it is a great jumping off point to begin your journey.

Canadamark Diamonds:

These are special fully-traceable and certified diamonds of Canadian origin. Each diamond has a certification number that can be found and traced on the Canadamark website. These diamonds are mindfully sourced with respect for workers, communities, sustainability, and the environment.

“We know that responsible mining means improving lives, strengthening communities, protecting wildlife, and respecting the environment in which we operate.” - Canadamark.

Mines that are part of the program must adhere to Canada’s strict environmental protocols.  In fact, “Canadamark diamonds are tracked through independent, audited process at every stage from the mine of origin to the polished stone.”

Kimberley Process:

We all immediately think of the Leonardo DeCaprio movie Blood Diamond when we think about ethics in the diamond industry.  The Kimberley Process Certification was the process established in 2003 to prevent "conflict diamonds" from entering the mainstream rough diamond market. However, it has recently come to light that the Kimberly Process is not living up to its mission.  This means that unfortunately you can no longer rely on this designation as it currently stands. 

Read more about the recent descent at the Kimberley Process Intersessional Meeting. It is my hope that they will be able to resolve differences and give this certification the assurances we all expect.

Montana Sapphires:

Sapphires have been revered for thousands of years. What makes Montana sapphires unique and even more valuable to many - is that they are ethically mined and sourced in an environmentally-friendly manner.  In fact, these sapphires aren’t mined as traditional sapphires are (removal or rocks and tunneling), they are found in streams and dried up creek beds. One can often trace Montana sapphires from the mine to the market.

As well as being sustainably-sourced and mined, Montana sapphires are known for their high-durability and interesting colors characteristics, many with an icy steely quality. 

Fairtrade Gemstones:

While not widely available or accessible, there are many suppliers committed to sustainable wages and ethical mining practices.  I have developed a list of trusted sources and are happy to work with you and our suppliers to find a sustainable stone that will suit your custom jewelry needs. 

Fairtrade & Fairmined Gold:

Gold mining is one of the most environmentally-destructive activities out there and is the world’s largest single source of mercury emissions. This type of mining encompasses activities that often employ toxic materials including mercury. In many cases, miners work in incredibly unhealthy environments and hazardous conditions. Toxins - including mercury - are often inhaled by the miners and then it settles into the surrounding environment. The amount and types of toxic substances that are utilized often spread into the surrounding communities (including children) and the environment. 

However, there is an increased awareness and need for ethically mined gold from artisanal and small-scale miners (ASM) where education and financial stability are empowering individuals and communities to pull gold from the earth in a more sustainable way.  

Fairtrade & Fairmined are assurance labels that certifies gold from empowered responsible artisanal and small-scale mining organizations (ASM). 

It transforms mining into an active force for good, ensuring social development and environmental protection, providing everyone with a source of gold to be proud of.

As a result of the Fairtrade & Fairmined Standard, anyone who buys gold and associated precious metals can support responsibly managed community mines with strict traceability requirements. Learn more about the Fairmined Standard here.

What is Fairtrade?

“​​Fairtrade is a system of certification that aims to ensure a set of standards are met in the production and supply of a product or ingredient. For farmers and workers, Fairtrade means workers’ rights, safer working conditions and fairer pay. For shoppers it means high quality, ethically produced products.” You can learn more about fairtrade and how it works here.

This brings me to a note on “Recycled Gold” …. 

Sourcing and safe work conditions are what can make the term “recycled gold” problematic. Though the term may appeal to an ethically-minded consumer, it’s incredibly misleading as gold is inherently always recycled. 

The problem is not with recycling existing gold- it’s how we are obtaining the gold to begin with as well as the working conditions of the mines and miners. If an individual or company is marketing “recycled gold” - they aren't really supporting the ethics or sustainability of the industry or the environment. 

However, if a company is using Fairmined gold, that’s a different story. Though Fairmined gold often does have a higher cost, you can rest assured that the business is truly prioritizing ethics and sustainability in sourcing all aspects of their jewelry pieces.

With Fairmined gold certification, miners are paid a fair wage and communities are supported. The mines must uphold environmental, health, and safety standards for certification. 

Therefore, if someone is simply using the term “recycled gold” in their marketing materials and product descriptions, buyer beware. It is incredibly misleading, green-washing, and is taking advantage of eco-conscious consumers.

Fail Jewelry has had the honor of designing and making custom rings for beautiful people and occasions, it's our privilege to be sharing their stories. Meet Mariska and Steve.

This Love Story ends in tears - the sweet, heartwarming kind. Mariska had loved a rose cut, ruby ring done for a mutual friend of her and Christine’s, “because of its low profile and artisan look”. Okay, now we’re really getting ahead of ourselves. Let’s start at the beginning, which ironically goes backwards.

Steve knew that he would want Mariska’s input on a custom engagement ring so instead, he came to Fail to purchase the wedding band to use during the proposal. He chose the classic beauty, the Coral Ring. The couple had been together for a few years before he decided to get down on one knee, and the choice to go wedding band first showed just how sure Steve was that the two we’re meant to be together forever.

After a long day of incredible sight seeing on a safari in Kenya, Mariska found herself relaxing in a luxurious tent over looking the Talek River. “Below our deck the river was teaming with hundreds of hippos! He got down on his knee right there and asked me to be his forever,” Mariska tells us with so much love in her tone. With each word, it became more and more clear that the proposal was a fairytale experience, and that Steve giving her the joy of being part of her own ring design was the cherry on top. “I think he knew better than to design without my approval,” Mariska joked.

It was later that Mariska came to Christine to create the ring of her dreams. The best part? Mariska didn’t know exactly what that looked like, “but I guess Christine did,” she exclaimed, “because really, how can someone make something this beautiful? How!” Mariska went on.

Christine begins to share, “it all started with a one of a kind center stone, and the design just built from there. I convinced Mariska to trust me when I found that very unique pear shaped, rose cut diamond. I just knew it was going to be stunning,” and goes on to tell us, “and when I unveiled the finished ring weeks later, her tears said it all! Mariska may have been the first person to cry when receiving a piece of jewelry from me.”

Steve and Mariska, thank you so much for this special story and treasured memory!

You can explore our engagement and wedding rings here. If you're interested in a custom piece, please inquire here to set up a personal consultation. We'd love to make something beautiful with you.

Fail Jewelry has had the honor of designing and making custom rings for beautiful people and occasions, it's our privilege to be sharing their stories. Meet our friends, Lisa and David.

After 4 or 5 years of dating, Lisa decided to create a Pinterest board for wedding and engagement ring inspiration, “just for fun, just for myself”, she exclaimed blushing. Little did she know, this board was going to give her sister all the information she needed to play the perfect middle man for David who was already beginning to plan his proposal.

Jackie and her husband, close mutual friends of Lisa and Christine’s, had recently had their wedding rings designed by Fail - David knew how much Lisa adored the work and that he wouldn’t go to anyone else to design theirs. Taking the bit of inspiration he had from the leaked photos on Lisa’s Pinterest board, along with an old, family ring he wanted to somehow include in the design, he came to Christine to work her magic.

Hardly able to tell us every detail behind their laughter, the couple recalls the silly and special moment at Fonda San Miguel when David popped the question. It was just before Christmas, December 21st, so the restaurant was particularly busy and they were casually talking about what they were going to order. “David paused mid conversation, just looking at me”, Lisa, still laughing in her seat, tells us. “It was a total surprise!”

“It’s hard to say my favorite thing about my ring, everything about it makes it, as a whole, incredible”, Lisa goes on as she slides the ring left and right against her finger. “The mixed metals make it so me, and there’s a sort of art-deco style to it that I love.” David looks at Lisa, “that is MY favorite part of the ring! I think I helped with that part.” The two continue to giggle over what seems to be the recollection of such a wonderful time - an energy that radiates from their smiles and makes us all the more grateful to have been a part of it.

Thank you, Lisa and David!

You can explore our engagement and wedding rings here. If you're interested in a custom piece, please inquire here to set up a personal consultation. We'd love to make something beautiful with you.

Bryan knew just who to turn to when it was time to pop the question. And because of how much he and Whitney love and trust Fail Jewelry, he left the design process almost entirely up to Christine.

“Not intimidating at all to design a ring for me future sister in law”, she joked.

Whitney knew she wanted a pear shaped ring, and that she wanted it to be gold, leaving Christine with tons of creative freedom. Knowing her brother wanted the center, pear shaped diamond to make an impression, Christine pulled out the sketchbook and got to work on designing something they’d both be happy to look at as a representation of their promise to forever.

“It was the first time I designed this type of setting for the smaller flanking diamonds in the band, and I absolutely loved the result. It has become a favorite setting style that you see in a lot of my one of a kind rings”, Christine explained sifting through the old sketches.

Even though Bryan had told Whitney he wanted to go to the beach to celebrate his new job, when it came time for the proposal, Whitney admits, “I had a hunch”.

Which Bryan quickly followed with “she went and had her nails done right before we left!”

After a long day in Port A, where Bryan apparently “was playing it super cool”, the couple headed to dinner where things got interesting. There was a loud but fun group of guys at the table next to them, who Bryan and Whitney ended up joining. One of the men kept joking “when are you going to marry this girl?!” Whitney could not believe what was happening and felt as if she were being set up  — could this be part of the proposal?! Luckily, the random men were just a playful coincidence and Bryan had something more romantic up his sleeve.

That night, after a romantic walk down to the beach, Whitney sat in the shallow water of the ocean, and Bryan came up to sit behind her. And with as much confidence as he had kept all day, he wrapped his arms around her and held the ring out, asking the big question.

The two both giggle at the memory, and Whitney looks at Bryan blushing, “it’s been a while since we’ve talked about this!”

What a special design process and experience this was. Here’s to you, Bryan and Whitney, and the growing Fail family!

You can explore our engagement and wedding rings here. If you're interested in a custom piece, please inquire here to set up a personal consultation. We'd love to make something beautiful with you.

As a part of our collaboration, Callen is generously donating her proceeds to benefit two worth causes, the United Farm Workers, and Sundance Harvest.  Scroll down to learn more from Callen about these righteous causes and their special place in her heart.

The theme of my two donations is the earth.

During quarantine, I've found the natural world has healed me best: moments in the mountains outside LA, times spent with my hands in the dirt gardening in my yard. This planet is intricate. It's gorgeous. It's sacred. And it's way more magnificent and unpredictable, as well as quietly present, than anything manmade. So, my donations go to people who are connected to the earth and our food systems, the United Farm Workers, and Sundance Harvest.

Why the United Farm Workers?

Driving from San Francisco to visit my friend Roni in Joshua Tree (@verokolt originally from Austin) I saw a sign on the side of the road for Cesar Chavez National Monument. My wife and I needed a rest stop, the dogs needed water, and my social justice heart always needs more chances to support labor rights. 

So we got off the highway and drove down a narrow dusty two lane road into a mountainy corner of the desert landscape. Down a driveway and we were there. The homestead and small museum grounds pulsed and glowed with kindness, respect, and reverence for workers' rights.

20% of my sales from this show go to the United Farm Workers, the labor union Cesar Chavez and Dolores Huerta founded in 1962. I'm inspired by the ideals that Cesar Chavez and Dolores Huerta espoused, giving their time, energy and efforts for the good of others. Cesar Chavez was instrumental in leading the Delano Grape Strike, which included him marching 300 miles from Delano in the Central Valley of CA to Sacramento. He also fasted for 25 days, losing 35 pounds and endangering his life, to press table and wine grape growers for the living wage and benefits they owed farm workers. That's baller. That's the fervor we all could be using to effect change. Because of Chavez and Huerta's efforts, the Delano grape boycott spread, expanding across the US and Canada, uniting field and farm workers of diverse backgrounds, until families across North America started boycotting table grapes, teaching their children this powerful social justice lesson about ethical payment for worker. Finally, five years after it started, the boycott met success in 1970. The growers relented and signed union contracts giving workers better pay, benefits, and protections. 

Libertine is an act of creative expression, a refuge for beauty and curiosity. No celebrity endorsement, no marketing meant to make you feel lesser than, no gender stereotyping; just the highest quality aromatic materials, beautiful design and amazing fragrances.

Libertine Fragrance is a line of perfume that celebrates the senses, the deep enjoyment of the world and the appreciation of the self. 

While these pieces are not available for purchase on our website, you can contact us to buy them directly. 

hinoki & moss incense cones - $30

hinoki wood (japanese cypress), cedar wood, moss

palo santo incense cones - $30

citrus, desert lavender, palo santo wood

eros fig eau de parfum - $110

citrus, warm spices, black currant, green fig leaf, dried fig, coconut, sandalwood, egyptian rose, benzoin, honey, ambrette seed

soft woods eau de parfum - $110

black pepper, juniper berry, balsam fir, rose de mai, frankincense, vanilla bourbon extract, musk

sweet grass eau de parfum - $110

tobacco absolute, mimosa flower, oak moss, rosemary, hay absolute, tonka bean

While these pieces are not available for purchase on our website, you can contact us to buy them directly. These signed, limited edition prints are 12"x18" and sell for $100. 

Excavation // James Lewis Tucker

Antares Twilight // Chris Fritton & James Lewis Tucker

Noon // Chris Fritton & James Lewis Tucker

These beautiful books make great gifts or a stylish addition to your own coffee table collection!

While these pieces are not available for purchase on our website, you can contact us to buy them directly.

Start Me Up! - $60

New Branding for Businesses 

Little brand, big effect: Today’s corporate design is being redefined by distinctive visual creativity.

Appetizer - $60

New Interiors for Restaurants and Cafés 

Indulge all the senses. Interior designers and architects are creating unforgettable spaces and setting stunning new standards for restaurants, bars, cafés.

Klimt Schiele Drawings - $40

From the Albertina Museum, Vienna

Velo 3rd Gear - $50

Bicycle Culture and Stories 

Bicycles are the new cars. Whether custom-made, sleek, playful, or electric, they are not only means of transportation but also have cultural value. Velo 3rd Gear introduces the world’s best bikes along with their makers and related products.

Wanderlust - $60

Hiking on Legendary Trails 

Explore the world one step at a time. Wanderlust presents legendary walking routes with inviting maps, practical tips, and inspiring landscape photographs.

The Hinterland - $60

Cabins, Love Shacks and Other Hide-Outs 

The cabin has become our third place, our hideaway where we can recharge our spirits and reconnect with ourselves, away from the restraints of society and the stress of the everyday. This book presents the best new cabin architecture and design.

Wildside - $60

The Enchanted Life of Hunters and Gatherers 

The woods are alive with possibilities: Retreat into nature, meet mushroom pickers, collectors, and explorers. Build cabins and scenic trails, create crafts, or start inspired projects. This is the way to the forest.

The New Nomads - $60

Temporary Spaces and a Life on the Move 

The life of urban nomads places new demands on cities, residences, and working spaces. This book presents temporary architecture, flexible room and furniture concepts, and tools for a generation that feels at home in every corner of the globe.

Upgrade - $60

Home Extensions, Alterations and Refurbishments

Adding. Extending. Transforming. Upgrade breathes new life in forgotten architecture.

Small Homes, Grand Living - $60

Interior Design for Compact Spaces

Diminutive rooms, grand possibilities. Small Homes, Grand Living shows how to make use of a limited space and turn a small apartment into a design marvel.

Custom engagement and bridal pieces showcase the breadth of their collective design aesthetic.  Originally trained in industrial design and mechanical engineering, Gretchen and Jack pull from their experiences designing for the custom architectural hardware and furniture industry.

While these pieces are not available for purchase on our website, you can contact us to buy them directly.

14k gold chime hoop SINGLE - $72

available in sterling silver - $50

14k gold knot ring - $100

14k gold chime earring SINGLE - $72

available in sterling silver - $50

14k gold baby chime earring SINGLE - $68

available in sterling silver - $46

14k gold snuggie earring SINGLE

6mm - $209, 8mm - $235

14k gold diamond chain threader SINGLE - $187

14k gold ear nut earring - $60

sterling silver - $40

BLACKBIRD's founder and Creative Director, Nicole Miller, is the guiding spirit behind the brand. Nicole approaches design from a place of boundless curiosity and fearless ingenuity, gently bending the rules to reveal what has not yet been seen.

While these pieces are not available for purchase on our website, you can contact us to buy them directly. 

ophir eau de parfum - $96

sandalwood, tonka bean, amyris, siam wood, muhuhu, rose hip seed, cedarwood, guaiacwood, myrtle leaf, cypress leaf, rosewood leaf, frankincense, saffron, pistachio, hazelnut, opopanax, lavender, ambrette seed, bay, rose, black pepper, nutmeg

pipe bomb eau de parfum - $96

saltwater, amber, metal

broken glass eau de perfume - $96

 jasmine, geranium, rose, opopanax, amyris, angelica root, violet leaf, chamomile, davana, bitter almond, cardamom, pink pepper

gorgo incense cones - $34

 wood bouquet, beeswax 

mars incense cones - $34

frankincense, dragon's blood resin, dust 

lone incense cones - $34

New Orleans moss, African bluegrass, fig, cedarwood

The Charcoal fragrance features cedarwood and sandalwood combined with notes of smokey amber and oud to build a broody, full-bodied fragrance. The candles are poured with a high quality soy wax blend and perfume grade essential oils. 

While these pieces are not available for purchase on our website, you can contact us to buy them directly.

charcoal 3 wick candle - $64

charcoal signature candle - $38

charcoal liquid soap - $22

charcoal lotion - $22

While these pieces are not available for purchase on our website, you can contact us to buy them directly. Available in sizes 8x10 and 11x14, $22 $48, custom framing available.

you are my sunshine

la planta uno

replenish

marfa #1 and #2

simplicity #1, #2, and #3

mother hen

These rings make for a beautiful wedding band or a gift for someone special in your life. Here at Fail Jewelry, a goal of ours is to become your destination for contemporary wedding and engagement rings. We hope that with Lauren Wolf Jewelry alongside offerings from Variance Objects &  EPIC  you'll be able to find a piece that stands out from the rest.

While these pieces are not available for purchase on our website, you can contact us to buy them directly.

18k rose gold half eternity nesting ring with diamonds, size 7 - $960

14k gold champagne diamond marquise ring - $900

14k gold black diamond ring - $500

14k gold black diamond half eternity nesting band - $960

18k gold brown diamond eternity band - $1600

While these pieces are not available for purchase on our website, you can contact us to buy them directly.

14k tiny encrusted branch ring - $400

SINGLE black silver mini tooth earring - $120

small 14k diamond pod ring - $480 

14k diamond encrusted 3 branch ring - $800 

SINGLE 14k mini moss shell earring with diamond - $190

SINGLE oxidized silver lava shell earring with diamond - $75 

14k branch solitaire diamond ring - $740

SINGLE 14k mini moss dot earring - $110

The Acanthus Collection is hand crafted in oxidized silver, 14k gold and 24k gold, and uses semi-precious and precious gemstones such as rainbow moonstones, diamonds and the incredibly unique, dendritic agate. The hand of the artist is revealed in each piece created, from forming metal, to stone setting, to delicately and painstakingly cutting gold imagery to create the patterns in her pieces. 

While these pieces are not available for purchase on our website, you can contact us to buy them directly.

evil eye necklace

oxidized silver and 24K gold - $270

libra constellation pendant

oxidized silver and 24K gold with diamonds - $330

scorpio constellation pendant

oxidized silver and 24K gold with diamonds - $350

sagittarius constellation pendant

oxidized silver and 24K gold with diamonds - $370

evil eye studs

oxidized silver and 24K gold with diamonds - $260

crescent moon studs

oxidized silver and 24K gold - $120

Molly's work lies at the intersection of architecture, textile design, graphic design, and product design. Her approach to design is heavily influenced by her background in architecture - a synthesis of conceptual and material exploration. Above all, she is always looking for new and interesting ways to use Larry and Lola, her trusty lasercutters.

While these pieces are not available for purchase on our website, you can contact us to buy them directly. Available in sizes 16x20, 16x24, and 18x24, $136 - $196, custom framing also available. 

square 1

passage neutral

float 1

lancet neon

viaduct neon

passage neon

While these brass mobiles and wall hangings are not available for purchase on our website, you can contact us to buy them directly. 

wall hanging no. 7 - $160

mobile no. 23 - $350

wall hanging no. 16 - $160

mobile no. 22 navy & brass - $350

wall hanging no. 11, large - $340

mobile no. 25 - $845

 maroon beverly - $90

black beverly - $90

taupe beverly - $90

maroon joule - $90

black joule - $90

Emily is a multidisciplinary artist and designer based in Austin, Texas. The daughter of an artist and anthropologist, she grew up with a paintbrush in one hand and a field book in the other. She is constantly exploring, and her work is heavily inspired by the textures, patterns, shapes, and natural colors around her. 

Prior to opening her own studio, she cut her teeth at the world class design firm IDEO where she worked with clients such as Nike, Microsoft, and The Bill & Melinda Gates Foundation. As an independent artist, she has has collaborated with wide-ranging brands the likes of Madewell, Starbucks, and Outdoor Voices, in addition to a diverse array of clients around the country and in her home base of Austin, Texas.

While these pieces are not available for purchase on our website, you can contact us to buy them directly. 

texas spring

which way

tower

southwest

amman

stacked

shadow