Xinjiang: Far West China

Xinjiang Railroads Lead to...Nowhere

noreply@blogger.com (Josh) — Sun, 08 Nov 2009 23:30:00 +0000

If anyone ever doubted the strategic importance China places on northern Xinjiang, this last week ended the debate. The provincial government recently announced (here in English) the completion of four new rail lines stretching a total of 1,400km, a project that cost 1.68 billion yuan ($243 million USD). Unlike the Urumqi-Kashgar line opened a decade ago, however, most tourists (including me) aren’t likely to care much about traveling these new routes that basically lead to nowhere.

In Xinjiang, the railroad generally isn’t geared toward the traveler. As a case in point, the new train station in my home of Karamay – a small city of 200,000 with plenty of space to grow – is almost 30 minutes outside of town by taxi. Even if it was more conveniently located, though, I still wouldn’t take it for time’s sake. A bus to Urumqi takes almost 4 hours. The train will take 8. The same can be said for the city of Turpan, whose train station is actually located an hour to the north of the city.

That’s not to say that the scenery along these new lines isn’t spectacular. The new lines skirt by some of Xinjiang’s many nature reserves and the bridge you see below crosses through the fertile Yili grasslands.

Most surprising is the fact that this announcement is just the tip of the iceberg. Currently 10 more lines are under construction in different parts of the province with the plan to extend the current 3,000km of track in the province to over 10,000km by 2020. According to Xinjiang Railway director Luo JinBao, that’ll make us the railroad king of China.

Picture of the Week: Karakul Lake

noreply@blogger.com (Josh) — Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 +0000

A Beautiful Day at Karakul Lake

Along the Karakoram Highway which begins in Kashgar and leads to the town of Tashkurgan on the China-Pakistan border, there is a small lake surrounded by the gorgeous Pamir mountain peaks. It’s very difficult to capture the beauty of Karakul Lake within the frame of a single photo and I wish I could say I have done so here.

The water in this lake, which appears to change to a different shade of translucent blue every hour of the day, becomes a crystal-clear mirror when calm.

Pretty much the only thing more breath-taking than the majestic daytime scenery at Karakul Lake is witnessing how the sky bursts with innumerable stars during the night. The high altitude and clean air made star gazing so easy it felt like a door in the atmosphere had been opened.

Note: Previously I named Karakul Lake as one of the top four lakes in the province. You ought to check out these three other amazing lakes in Xinjiang.

Favorite Pit Stops on the Silk Road

noreply@blogger.com (Josh) — Mon, 02 Nov 2009 00:00:00 +0000

If there’s one lesson I’ve learned in my years of traveling through Xinjiang and around China, it’s that travel books don’t catch everything. It would be impossible, I realize, but I still think it’s a shame that travelers miss some really cool gems. I’ve become friends with a few foreign small business owners and have come to appreciate the incredible red tape they have to overcome to open their cool cafes.

So in my effort to give these guys some free publicity and to help any travelers touring the Silk Road I’d like to share my top three favorite kinds of foreign small businesses: the café, the coffee house, and the ice cream shop.

Best Café: Urumqi’s Texas Café

I admit that I’m a little biased considering I hail from the great state of Texas, but Urumqi’s Texas Café really does offer some of the best Tex-Mex food in China. On the menu you’ll find enchiladas, burritos, and nachos as well as typical western dishes like pizza or hamburgers. Good coffee and homemade deserts top of a very reasonably priced meal. I know this sounds like a long commercial, but you can ask my wife – I love this place.

Also available is a decent-sized collection of books available for rent, buy or trade and free wifi. Jerrod, who is running the place, is a great guy who apparently went to school not even 10 minutes from my home. Who knew we’d be meeting up in the middle of Central Asia?
Name: 德克萨斯西餐厅 "The Texas Cafe"
Address: 马市小区 (ma shi xiao qu) along the grape trellis
Hours: 1pm to 11pm

Best Coffee House: Dunhuang’s Oasis Café

Opened in the last year, this coffee house blows away every other “café” in Dunhuang. That may be because it’s the only one that is run by foreigners, but I personally believe it’s because they focus on selling coffee, not camel tours. Currently their menu is only drinks but they tell me they plan to offer food sometime in the next year. Food can wait, though, cause their latte and milkshakes are incredible.

Travis and Kevin have created a nice atmosphere which includes free wifi, soothing music, and comfortable seating. They’re menu isn’t incredibly long, but their coffee is good quality.
Name: 绿洲咖啡馆 "Dunhuang's Oasis Cafe"
Address: 商业街99号 (shang ye jie 99 hao)
Hours: 2pm to 12pm

Best Ice Cream: Ice Mountain Creamery

Live in China long enough and you’ll find that American brands like Blue Bell really can’t be beat. Chinese ice creams lack a certain…how do you describe it? A creamy taste. So last year when the Ice Mountain Creamery opened up I was skeptical that their ice cream could be much better, but it is. It really is.

They have a small (very small!) window selling ice cream in the city center, but you can also get a bowl at the Texas Café. During the summer months a cup of the “Urumqi Snow” (cookies and cream) really hits the spot.
Name: 美国冰淇淋 "Ice Mountain Creamery"
Address: 乌市人民路车市 H9 (wu shi ren min lu che shi H9)

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So there you have it. I don’t do advertisements much, but I think these guys deserve it. If you ever out in the area stop by and give them some business. You can tell them you heard it from me, but quite honestly they’d probably just laugh and say “Yea, I remember that Josh guy. He’s kind of weird but his wife is real nice.”

Picture of the Week: Woodworking in Kashgar

noreply@blogger.com (Josh) — Thu, 29 Oct 2009 00:00:00 +0000

Father and Son share duties at the woodworking shop

I came across this cool scene on a small street in the Old City of Kashgar. Among the endless stands and stores selling all sorts of Uyghur antique souvenirs a man and his son patiently chipped away at pieces of wood. The young boy, no older than thirteen years old, used a large axe to break apart the logs while his father worked the lathe using a tiny chisel. After chatting with the both of them for a few minutes I ended up buying two simple candle stands that had since been painted and stained. It wasn’t expensive and these aren’t the type of souvenirs that are typical of Xinjiang, but this is the kind of stuff I like to remember a place by.

Sadly, the road where this shop used to stand has been torn down following a government plan to rebuild the Old City section of Kashgar and relocate all of its 220,000 inhabitants to newer housing. I probably won’t ever find out what has become of this father-and-son wood shop, but now I have a couple of candlesticks to help me remember what used to be.

Opposite End of China back Online

noreply@blogger.com (Josh) — Wed, 28 Oct 2009 02:39:00 +0000

Before there was Far West China...there was The Opposite End of China.

For over 8 months I have received numerous emails asking me what happened to Michael Manning and his Xinjiang blog "The Opposite End of China", and for eight months I have given the same response: "I have no idea". He just dropped off the grid and his site was completely shut down. No warning. No response to emails. No nothing.

This week, out of the blue, I get a response to an email I sent back in March letting me know that all is well. I'm not sure we'll find out exactly why everything got shut down, but the good news is that all of the old content - stuff that was written about Xinjiang years ago - is back online and available. I wasn't really part of the China scene when he was writing so I'm not up-to-date on all his articles, but I do know that during its heyday his writing was much more popular than mine is now. That's gotta mean something.

So for another perspective of Xinjiang - albeit a couple of years old - check out the archives at The Oppostie End of China.

"Mommy, I'm being Brainwashed at School!"

noreply@blogger.com (Josh) — Mon, 26 Oct 2009 00:00:00 +0000

Here in Xinjiang we have some foreign teacher friends whose son attends a local Chinese school. A week ago we overheard one of the most hilarious conversations between this 3rd grade boy and his mother that I have to share. It went something like this:

Mom: Are you ok, Michael? You look a little pale.

Son: I'm scared, mom. I think they are brainwashing me at school!

(this, of course, alarms his mom)

Mom: What!? What are they doing to you?

Son: They're using some sort of machine at school to brainwash all us kids and they forced me against my will to participate. I didn't have a choice, mom!
(by this point the mom is getting quite nervous)

Mom: Can you explain exactly what they did to you?

Son: Yea. They held up this laser-brainwasher to my forehead and I heard it beep.

(After a moment of thought the mom finally solves the riddle)

Mom: Ha! Don't worry, Michael. It's a thermometer. They're checking your temperature, not melting your brainmass.

Leave it to a third-grade imagination to create a brainwasher out of a thermometer.

Picture of the Week: Diverse Xinjiang Music

noreply@blogger.com (Josh) — Thu, 22 Oct 2009 00:00:00 +0000

Can you spot which CD doesn’t belong?

So the title of this picture is a bit misleading, I admit. Xinjiang music is very diverse and incredibly fascinating, however my knowledge and understanding of it is still quite limited. Even so, while traveling to a desert oasis in Xinjiang a couple months ago I came upon a merchant trying to sell his display of Xinjiang-related books and CDs. I'm no expert, but something just didn't look right.

I would like to set the record straight: despite his popularity all over China, Kenny G is not a Xinjiang native and his music carries no trace of local flavor.

Mystery of the Russian Hikers and Other Links

noreply@blogger.com (Josh) — Wed, 21 Oct 2009 02:02:00 +0000

A couple of interesting links about Xinjiang today, including a weird timeline of contradicting news reports about some Russian hikers in Xinjiang's mountains and a disappointing trip that one traveler had to Kashgar this past October holiday:

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First, I was tipped off to this odd series of events by a reader who sent in a few news clips. The story starts off in early September when a group of seven Russian climbers, including one "World class athlete", began a month-long climb up Xinjiang's Kunlun Mountains near Minfeng. On October 16th at around 1pm Xinhua reported that, thanks to an emergency satellite phone call (made to either a Xinjiang Chinese guide or a Shanghai contact - Xinhua gives contradicting accounts in two articles), a search and rescue operation had begun in the Hotan prefecture for the seven hikers who were allegedly missing, but "no trace of the hikers was found". Oddly, 10 hours later that same day Xinhua posted a similar story, this time going into great details about how the hikers "did not get approval from the Chinese authorities for the trip" - an important detail left out of the first story. Finally, on October 17th a story was posted saying all of the hikers had all of the sudden been found and there is no mention of discipline.

End of story, right? Not quite. Russian news releases a story completely contradicting Xinhua, saying that not only were these hikers never lost, but they were in constant communication via the satellite phone they brought with them. Said the head of the Federation's mountaineering commission, "Why searching for them if their whereabouts have been known and they just have to be fetched?" The entire team will leave today from Urumqi to head back to Russia. Why are there such contradicting stories here?

As a final twist to this story, these Russians were aided by an interpreter named Zhang Hong, who is an unregistered tour guide in Urumqi. Another minor detail on his resume: he was the guide for the four Russian tourist who died in a canoe trip in those same mountains in September 2007. Coincidence? Who knows, but I think he needs to start thinking about changing careers.

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Finally, I'd like to point you to the story of a traveler who recently made his way to the Silk Road city of Kashgar, experiencing numerous brushes with police which are the norm here. Considering last week's post about safety in Xinjiang and yesterday's post about the changes that have taken place, here's the personal story of the minor headaches Graham had to endure to see the sights around Kashgar.

"The obstacles that I faced came as a big shock to me. It was really the first time where being an American citizen actually made me a target for something (or someone) other than beggars. In addition, in just the four days I spent in Kashgar I faced these problems of arbitrary decisions with seemingly no rhyme or reason, and certainly no explanation."

Read the rest of Graham's story on his website, grahamwoodring.com

Life in Xinjiang after 7.5

noreply@blogger.com (Josh) — Mon, 19 Oct 2009 00:00:00 +0000

A couple months ago I did a brief overview of the changes that have been taking place in Xinjiang due to the July 5th riots. Since that time quite a few newsworth events have continued to shape life in Xinjiang, including the syringe scare and the outbreak of H1N1, and I thought you might be interested to hear how these have affected the day-to-day life in the province. As always, keep in mind that this all comes from personal observation and is limited in scope to my small city. It should give you a better picture, though, about what is happening in a province that at the moment is both deaf and dumb.

Security forces are still visible all throughout the province, including along the highway checkpoints and especially near the mosques. It has been reported that over 20,000 troops have been deployed all throughout the province and there is no hint that they'll be leaving soon.
Buses in many cities are now staffed by a government employee whose sole job is to ensure passenger safety. Like air marshals, they're usually plain-clothed and they are, more than likely, a direct response to the syringe attacks.
Bags are being checked in all major shopping areas. It's not clear what they're looking for, but the personnel checking the bags are regular employees, not police.
Long distance calling has been shut down even tighter. While previously I could use a specific phone card to call home or at least receive incoming calls late at night, it seems that this "loophole" has been discovered and fixed. Communication with my family is virtually nil right now.
Dunhuang has become Xinjiang's most important city. And it's not even located within Xinjiang...it's in Gansu! Pretty much the first city outside of Xinjiang with internet access, Dunhuang has become the place for all businessmen and foreigners to go to regain access to email and business contacts. Hotels and coffee shops tell me they've seen a noticable increase in Xinjiang traffic.
Wanted posters were plastered all over each neighborhood in August showing color photos of both those who have been arrested and those suspects who are still at large. This group of about 30 mug shots include mostly Uyghur men but also boasts a couple women and Han Chinese.
Every child must have their temperature taken before entering the school premises. If they leave during the lunch period they must take the temperature again upon returning. Any person entering the hospital with a temperature is immediately quarantined.
Travel during the holiday was strongly discouraged. Since we're foreigners and we needed to get on the internet we were allowed, but we first had to get permission from the local police bureau before we left. Every single one of our Chinese friends stayed home for the October holiday following the request of our employer.
The internet is rumored to remain closed until late next year. This is the most discouraging to me. I'm not sure what advantage there is to keeping this province in the dark until April or May, but even my friend within the city government told me not to expect anything until at least the Chinese New Year. I've heard that our neighbors to the south are in the same situation but I'm not quite sure.

So that about covers it. We're not suffering over here but things have definitely changed. With every day that goes by these changes become more and more routine to the point that it's almost considered "normal". Personally I take comfort in many of these points, I just hope that in the future all of this won't be neccessary.

Picture of the Week: Wind Power

noreply@blogger.com (Josh) — Thu, 15 Oct 2009 00:00:00 +0000

Wind Farm Outside Urumqi

If you ever find yourself entering or exiting Urumqi by either train or bus you’re bound to see the following scene - hundreds of white wind turbines dotting the landscape, somehow harnessing vast amounts of energy to be used by the nearby capital. It really is a cool sight, especially with the TianShan mountains in the background. Don’t let this picture fool you, though. These things are not small. It takes an entire 18-wheeler to transport a single blade of a turbine from the manufacturing plant to the wind farm.

Xinjiang’s weather, in some places reliably windy and other continuously sunny, makes it the perfect place to harvest solar and wind energy. Some villages I have visited in the far reaches of the province’s borders acquire most of their electricity by either a wind turbine, solar panels on the roof or both.

Can Xinjiang continue this trend towards green energy? If you walk around Urumqi too much you might think not, but I still hold hope for the rest of the province.

Is It Still Safe to Travel in Xinjiang?

noreply@blogger.com (Josh) — Mon, 12 Oct 2009 00:00:00 +0000

In light of the July 5th riots that completely shut down Xinjiang for an entire week and claimed the lives of almost 200 people, it stands to reason that many travelers might think twice before making their planned journey out to China’s west. I don’t blame them, really. There are times when I have been cautioned not to travel within the province or advised on certain areas to avoid – and this is my home. But in reality what are the risks involved in gallivanting around Xinjiang? Or better yet…is it worth the risk?

If you ever plan on coming to Xinjiang – and I highly suggest you do – here are some common fears shared by many travelers as well as the truth behind these misconceptions.

Physical Risks

Fear: If I go to Xinjiang there’s a chance I’ll get caught in a fight and get hurt or seriously injured.
Reality: I've received numerous emails asking about the "state of affairs" within the province. Truthfully it's extremely calm, especially considering all of the police that are patrolling the streets right now. Unless you get drunk and start throwing fists, your chances of getting caught in the middle of something are pretty darn slim. You’re taking more of a risk getting into a taxi cab in Beijing than walking the streets of Xinjiang. These fights and riots are domestic disputes and rarely, if ever, involve foreign visitors.

Health Risks

Fear: I could get stabbed by a syringe or catch H1N1.
Reality: The syringe scare is pretty much over now. A few people were jailed for these incidents and rumor around the province suggests that nothing actually came from being "stuck". Nobody got sick; nobody died. H1N1 is a credible fear, but the same can be said for traveling around the U.S. at present.

Risks for Females

Fear: Single foreign women are targeted by the local population.
Reality: Uyghur and Han Chinese are no better or worse than people groups anywhere else in the world. If you’re cautious and use common sense, you’re in no more danger than any other part of China. Don’t feel safe walking the city street at night? Then don’t. To be honest, right now is probably the safest time for females considering there are so many police patrolling the streets at all hours of the day carrying very big guns.

Sightseeing Risks

Fear: I’m going to spend all this time and money traveling to Xinjiang but when I arrive they’ll tell me that such-and-such place is now closed to foreigners.
Reality: While it is wise to check ahead with a travel agency to ask about certain border areas you might want to travel to, major cities and sightseeing locations very rarely close. The worst you’ll get might be a few extra police check-points which end up being more of an annoyance than a risk. I ran into 4 of them just on my way into the capital of Urumqi from my city up north, but the most I was asked to do was write down my passport number.

Is It Worth It?

Although I must acknowledge that there is a risk involved in coming out here to Xinjiang, I truly believe that the benefits far outweigh any potential problems. Of course, this is coming from a guy who has voluntarily lived here for over 3 years, so take that with a grain of salt. You can also take a look at the series I wrote earlier this year entitled 6 Reasons to Live or Travel to Xinjiang. There you’ll find all the “benefits” that for me make the risks of traveling here seem insignificant.

Are there any other travel fears that I have missed? If I were to give you a free, all-expense paid trip to Xinjiang right now, would you do it?

Wang Gang Interview on Danwei

noreply@blogger.com (Josh) — Fri, 09 Oct 2009 00:00:00 +0000

Yesterday I was fortunate to run across a very interesting video interview posted on Danwei. In the interview Jeremy Goldkorn talks with Wang Gang, author of the book English: A Novel, a book that I have reviewed both on this site and on Danwei. For those of you who aren't familiar, Wang Gang grew up in Xinjiang during the darker times in China's history and his novel reflects both his experience and his hindsight concerning that period.

I find his words particularly interesting in light of recent events in Xinjiang. Blame is always easier to push onto others, especially when we feel a tinge of guilt ourselves. Anyway, the Wang Gang interview is well done and worth a quick view.

Internet Blackout in Xinjiang? What blackout?

noreply@blogger.com (Josh) — Wed, 07 Oct 2009 00:00:00 +0000

Greetings world. If you’re reading this note, then my message in a bottle has somehow made it from this secluded island I live on to the shores of your country. Xinjiang is still under complete blackout and there is no end in sight. As a result, my knowledge of world events has vanished and my sanity has suffered primarily due to the fact that we are the only westerners in our city and I can’t contact my friends at home.

Most horrifying is the fact that I am now comfortable in this situation. The first week I went crazy trying to find ways to circumvent “Big Brother” and the second week was spent sulking over my failures. By week three life began to feel “normal” again and now, after three months, I don’t even realize how disconnected I am. It’s scary to think about.

Life here in Xinjiang has resumed its normal pace but now a new element has been added just for fun: the life-threatening rumor. It seems like every week we have to determine how to handle each new rumor, including both those which are verifiable (needles, H1N1, etc.) and those which are not (“something’s going to happen tomorrow, I hear” or “nobody is allowed to leave the city for the next week”). Nobody knows what to believe, which means that most people are forced to accept everything they hear as fact and are becoming quite paranoid.

Contrary to local conventional wisdom, I have refused to become too fearful, taking a few motorcycle trips around the province and not wearing a face mask to protect myself from the crazy flu. I also left the province during this October holiday, another risk I was advised against (“You’ll be quarantined when you get back for one full week!”), which is how I am typing this message right now. I’m in a hotel room not even 50km from the Xinjiang border, soaking in the internet like it’s a miracle from heaven.

I’ll be scheduling a few articles to be posted over the next few weeks but don’t be led to believe we have the internet back. I just want to keep this website active even while I’m gone and answer a few questions that I’ve been getting in my email inbox. Please feel free to write me even if I won’t be able to immediately answer. Thanks to everybody who has shown their concern and encouragement to my wife and I during this frustrating time. Take care!

A Summary of Reactions to the Urumqi Riots

noreply@blogger.com (Josh) — Thu, 06 Aug 2009 23:30:00 +0000

I found it very interesting as I emerged from my isolation in Xinjiang to see what everybody was writing about the Urumqi riots. To be honest I am a bit discouraged that most of the conversation - both in China and among English-speakers - has centered around the portrayal of the incident as opposed to the problems causing the incident. I suspect the reason for this might be a certain fixation on Chinese media as along with a hesitancy to write about Uyghurs, a generally unknown group.

Below I have compiled a few quotes from a selection of writers, politicians, and laymen talking about either the riots themselves or the way in which they were reported on by the Chinese and western media.

From Imagethief, an insightful China-based blog:

"Two divergent narratives now seem to be unfolding. ...[T]o summarize, in the broad Western media narrative, Uighurs ground down by decades of colonial oppression and incited by racism have erupted in rebellion. In the one told by Chinese media, "splittists" let by the Uighur exile Rebiyah Kadeer have engineered an outbreak of groundless violence directed largely at innocent ethnic Han. Condensing as they must a long and complicated history from different political points of view, both narratives are hobbled. The Western narrative is hobbled by a reflexive sympathy for any group arrayed in opposition to a Chinese state that is well established in the role of bogeyman...The Chinese narrative is hobbled by a national myth-making apparatus that allows no room whatsoever for the acnowledgment of Uighur grievances."

From ChinaGeeks, commentary on how State media is adapting to this riot:

"[Concerning State media's updating their English language sites faster than Chinese language sites]...it may indicate that the Chinese government is seeking primarily to control the international response to this story, and thus, Xinhua has been focusing on the English report, which is clearly where most of the Western news sources are currently getting their information. If this is the case, it would indicate a bit of a paradigm shift in their media response, which has previously been aimed primarily at domestic audiences."

From CNReviews, in response to a Huffington Post piece:

"One of the big surprises of the entire Urumqi riot news event was just how quickly the Chinese government came out and reported Uighur deaths both domestically and abroad. It was so unexpected, skeptics the world over instantly wondered if it was just an excuse to also report how many Han deaths there were in comparison, you know, to 'fan the flames of nationalism.'"

From Wang Lequan, Party Secretary of Xinjiang:

"We should keep a sober mind and not fall into the trap of our enemies. We should not target our ethnic sisters and brothers. Our targets should be the hostile forces and criminals, both at home and abroad, rather than our own brothers and sisters of different ethnic backgrounds. Unreasonable behavior will only further worsen the situation."

From a taxi driver I talked to in Urumqi on July 14th:

"These police [referring to the hundreds of special riot police seen everywhere along the streets] will probably be here for another month or two. People who used to take buses now prefer to take taxis for safety reasons."

From Fang Ning, a Political Science Scholar as quoted in the Beijing Review:

"Anti-China forces abroad fomented the riot to irritate the Han ethnic group, sow hatred and stir up conflict between people of different ethnic groups. The masterminds are the common enemies of all Chinese people."

Clearly the protesters have accomplished the not-so-difficult task of creating controversy, now it's time to wait and see what changes are ahead in Xinjiang's future.

A Recent History of Unrest in Xinjiang

noreply@blogger.com (Josh) — Wed, 05 Aug 2009 23:30:00 +0000

Xinjiang, in both recent and ancient history, has never been known as a haven of peace and tranquility. Murders and coups of the past have now been replaced by riots and what the Chinese call “splittism” (the desire to separate the country). Here’s a quick look at the riots and unrest that have occurred in Xinjiang’s recent history. It’s not a comprehensive list but it includes the largest events that have occurred since the province’s ‘liberation’ in 1949.

The Urumqi Riot – May 1989

While Chinese leadership was coping with the demonstrations happening in Beijing, another student demonstration was underway, this one in Urumqi. Here, according to authorities at that time, an orderly march was being conducted. In reality these Uyghur students had wrecked cars and attacked the government headquarters. Interestingly, the reason for this march had nothing to do with Beijing but rather was in protest of the recently published book called Sexual Customs which purported to describe the sexual life of Muslims.

The Baren Riot – April 1990

The small town of Baren is located south-west of Kashgar and was a surprise location for any sort of uprising. Everything supposedly began when police tried to break up a crowd outraged at the closure of a mosque before a religious festival. Fighting broke out and was put down (20-50 deaths) by the Public Security Bureau with the help of 1,000 regular army troops. According to Chinese reports, the protest included Muslim calls for jihad and ended in 5,000 criminal cases.

The Lop Nor Demonstration – March 1993

An event that wasn’t widely covered in the press was an anti-nuclear demonstration held in Lop Nor, the site of China’s nuclear testing ground. The effects of nuclear testing in the areas surrounding Lop Nor, which has been recently brought to light by a Japanese researcher, were devastating. According to a Hong Kong publication around 1,000 demonstrators broke down the fence surrounding the compound stealing explosives and setting fire to aircraft and tanks. Some protestors were killed while hundreds were arrested.

The Gulja (Yili) Riot – February 1997

Gulja, a former capital of that particular region of China, is currently referred to as Yining (伊宁) in Chinese. A fight somehow broke out (specific stories differ) between police and worshippers on the final day of Ramdan, the Muslim holy festival. People take to the streets and march for little more than 2 hours before being stopped at the Yili Hotel (former Russian consulate). 300-500 arrested. By the next day the city was full of riots and riot police, with official reports citing 9 deaths while unofficial sources cited 30-400. A curfew was imposed, the railway and airport were closed and the city was sealed off for 2 weeks.

The Urumqi Riot – July 2009

The biggest and, according to most reports, the deadliest of all Xinjiang’s riots, it started as a peaceful protest of a few hundred people in People’s Square and ended in thousands running the streets and the deaths of close to 200 people, Han and Uyghur. Although Chinese publications are already releasing numbers, it will probably be a while before the full scope of this riot’s damage, including arrests, convictions and executions comes to light.

*For a more detailed look at what has happened in Xinjiang just in the past year, both small and large events, check out this timeline from the RFA which I found very useful.

The Uyghur Who Saved a Han

noreply@blogger.com (Josh) — Tue, 04 Aug 2009 23:30:00 +0000

During the first few days of the Urumqi riots, stories of beatings, killings, brutal knifings and explosions dominated the gossip circles in Xinjiang. So gruesome were these stories that one could only wish that they were fabrications, although sad pictures in the local press confirmed the contrary. Occasionally, however, a story would find its way through the community* that would be a reminder that hatred is the characteristic of individuals, not ethnic groups. Just as every German wasn’t responsible for the Holocaust and not every Japanese committed atrocities in Nanking, not every Uyghur is to blame for the chaos that began on July 5th, 2009. In fact, as this story shows, some of them were given the opportunity to be heroes.

Bahtiar** (pronounced “bak-tee-ar”), a Muslim Uyghur, never would have guessed on that beautiful Sunday afternoon that he would end the day risking his life for a few Han Chinese people he didn’t even know. In fact, he wasn’t expecting to do anything more than serve food at his small Uyghur restaurant. Situated along the main road leading to the International Bazaar, the majority of his clientele were usually tourists – both Han (Chinese) and foreign.

Most people in Urumqi were unaware of the peaceful protests which had been on going since early in the afternoon, but once a group formed in the open area of the Urumqi International Bazaar the violence that ensued caught everybody’s attention. Heading north towards the People’s Square they left a wake of damage to any Chinese establishments with rocks, sticks and an occasional knife. Pent up frustration mixed with a poisonous mob mentality had obviously infected men who had up until this point never participated in violence.

As the group made its way up the main street, gaining momentum with every shattered window, some of the more radical protesters began barging into every restaurant and pulling out any Han Chinese on which to take out their aggression. Considering that the dinner hour was just beginning to come alive many of these restaurants were filled with people trying to enjoy some lamb and noodles.

Bahtiar, seeing what was transpiring, made a snap decision in the heat of the moment, a decision which would prove to be both risky and life-saving. Gathering all of his terrified Han customers who were eating in the restaurant he quickly ushered them to the back of the restaurant and hid them in the kitchen.

Barely a minute later two of the protesters, sticks in hand, burst into the restaurant and demanded to know if any Han Chinese were present. Shaking out of fear while staring his own countrymen in the eye he lied. “No. There are none here.” The whole restaurant paused for what felt like an eternity as the protesters looked for signs that another Uyghur might have deceived them. One might wonder if the plates of food served at empty tables might have been a dead giveaway to these two men, but the riot was moving to rapidly for them to investigate further, so they left.

The story doesn’t end here, however, as the riots carried on late into the night keeping the streets unsafe for all people. Bahtiar’s customers had to be led to safety from a restaurant that was in the heart of Uyghur neighborhood and therefore directly in the hot zone. An idea was suggested which was at first scoffed and then slowly reconsidered. What if each of these Han customers was dressed in Uyghur clothing and made to wear a head cover, a form of traditional fashion that was still widely used by strict observers of the Muslim faith (those least likely to be singled out in this riot), and then snuck out the back of the restaurant? It just might work.

So while outside cars were burning and people were yelling, inside these Han Chinese – male and female alike – were covered from head to toe in traditional outwear that would protect them from the anarchy. Had these escapees been found by the protesters there is no doubt that Bahtiar would have been severely beaten or even worse. In all likelihood he will never be recognized for his heroic risk and probably will never know that his story is being told.

But this story must be taken to heart, especially to those Han Chinese here who right now are scared to death of their Uyghur neighbor. Considering the tensions that have existed for centuries between the Han Chinese and their ethnic minorities in Xinjiang, this recent riot is likely to strain these feelings even further. Regardless the reason or justification for these protests, the deaths of hundreds of people is inexcusable for those few whose hatred overpowered their better judgment. But as Bahtiar and many others show, it is improper and prejudiced to label an entire entire ethnic group by a single characteristic.

*A similar story of kindness during the violence was written up in the Shanghai Daily

**Because this story is being told 2nd hand, all names and exact locations have been changed or made up. Any resemblance to actual persons or places in Urumqi is purely coincidental.

Urumqi: A Week After the Riots

noreply@blogger.com (Josh) — Mon, 03 Aug 2009 23:30:00 +0000

The road stretching from the south gate all the way to the Urumqi International Bazaar, a predominantly Uyghur neighborhood, was blocked by scores of armed military guards, tire spikes, and police tape. This road, usually overcrowded by vehicle and pedestrian traffic, was now lifeless and the Bazaar itself had been set up as a temporary headquarters for a large battalion of well-equipped soldiers. A few blocks to the north, People’s Square had been completely cordoned off hiding a lonely piece of open space that had served as the beginning of the bloodiest clash in modern Xinjiang history.

A week after the riots began I found myself wandering the streets of Urumqi, a city which no longer felt familiar to me. The hot, dry air that is typical for the month of July was mercifully cool thanks to the clouds that were now slowly covering the sky. The streets were eerily silent, broken only by the occasional army envoy which consisted of two trucks carrying about thirty soldiers led by an SUV blaring warnings from its rooftop speaker in both the Uyghur and Chinese language. For a moment I thought I heard another riot start up only to recognize the clamor as the loud, purposefully-intimidating chants of a marching company filing down the nearby alleyway.

Of course, the most obvious change in this city was its people in whose eyes I could see fear and unease. For my entire visit rumors of riots, abductions, and killings – all lacking confirmation – held the city into a perpetual state of reclusion. Those who hadn’t fled the city to their hometowns were most likely holed up in their apartment terrified to leave.

The presence of all the armed guards was at the same time ominous and encouraging to me. As far as I could see, peace had been restored but the damage had already been done. Most of the wreckage left from the riot was now hidden behind locked metal doors, however some shattered glass, burned out buildings, broken kebab stands and a few gutted cars remained to give a glimpse of what had happened.

As I walked along the road small drops of water began to fall from dark clouds above, a warning of heavier rains to come. The soldiers posted in groups of threes on ever street corner never flinched during this change in weather although they carefully watched my sprint for shelter. I joined some of the few pedestrians who had found cover below a building overhang and stared out at the empty streets.

From there I had a moment to stop and think about how this week would add a new chapter to Xinjiang history books. The beginning of the week had been marked by a river of red blood – both Han and Uyghur – and had ended with a massive flood of green uniforms. By this time tomorrow a replacement of green would begin a new shift, a cycle that will repeat itself many times over, but for now I was left to hope that the red washed away by the rain would not soon be replaced.

Physical Changes in Xinjiang Due to the Riots

noreply@blogger.com (Josh) — Sun, 02 Aug 2009 23:30:00 +0000

Due to the fact that the internet here in Xinjiang has been cut for several weeks I’ve had plenty of free time to soak in all the stories I’ve heard, process what has happened, and do my own research on the subject of unrest in Xinjiang. During this time I’ve also been able to witness the physical changes that have been happening as a result of the July riots in Urumqi. Here are just a few examples from my small city 4 hours north of Urumqi:

Checkpoints have been set up at every exit point in the city as well as at various points along the major highways. Foreigners such as me must register our every movement.
The internet was cut around 7-8am on July 6th…sort of. Access to sites that are hosted on servers within Xinjiang (which happens to be all local news) are available but anything outside is gone. No email, Skype, international news, etc. It’s been terrible. Only journalists have been allowed internet access in Urumqi and apparently bloggers don’t count as “journalist” here.
International phone calls have been limited. According to officials it has been completely cut but we’ve been able to make and receive a couple calls, albeit after countless unsuccessful attempts.

On Tuesday, July 7th, a massive company of military vehicles and soldiers occupied Karamay, our city, on rumor that some of the Urumqi rioters had moved north.
That same Tuesday every office and store was closed as police constantly patrolled the streets due to the rumor mentioned above. Unaware of this lockdown, I innocently rode my motorcycle into a desolate downtown area to find a unit of over 150 police patrolling both major mosques.
All auxiliary entrances to our neighborhood have been padlocked, allowing passage only through a single guarded gate. Such is the case in every community in our city.
Rumors of bombs and buses burning have been circulating around the city but I have seen nothing and a friend who works for the local newspaper said nothing has happened.

I am dedicating the remainder of this week to this tragedy that has set every single person in Xinjiang on edge. Because of this communications blackout we are currently enduring, I don’t know how much of this is old news so please be understanding. Some is based on first hand experience during my trip to Urumqi soon after the riots while one will be an unconfirmed story that I find to be encouraging.

During this time, please feel free to fill the comment board with stories you’ve heard or opinions you have, but please do so without unnecessary accusations. This region of China has endured the awful grip of hatred for long enough; taking on this mantle is not heroic.

Finally, I will apologize ahead of time for a lack of personal pictures accompanying these stories. I am no professional journalist, and as much as I enjoy this blog I have no desire to part with my digital camera, or worse, with my personal freedom for the sake of a single photograph. Also, apart from scores of military personnel and some property damage, I have thankfully witnessed very little action.

My hope is that it stays that way.

Xinjiang Travel Incentive of the Century

noreply@blogger.com (Josh) — Thu, 30 Jul 2009 23:30:00 +0000

There may be no better time than the present to travel out to Xinjiang, says tourism chief Chi Chongqing. We'll make it worth your while.

It should come as no surprise that the tourism industry here has taken a nose dive into the desert sand and government officials are working hard to speed along its recovery. Considering how vital tourism is to the economy here it's good to see that measures are being taken to rescue an industry that has lost an estimated 1 billion yuan since the Urumqi riots. Their proposal, however, falls short of impressive.

According to the 5 billion yuan bailout plan announced last week (that's how much they expect to lose over the course of this year), each traveler to Xinjiang would be given a 10-yuan subsidy per day* as an incentive to visit the region.

10 yuan per day!

Could you ask for a better deal? I expect not. That translates to about US$1.40, a ginormous amount that barely covers the cost of riding a camel. But we've got high hopes out here in Xinjiang. It has been predicted, according to the China Daily, that "the move could attract 50,000 tourist". We're pretty optimistic, it seems.

Of course, people go to baseball games just to get a free bobble-head in America, so who am I to judge.

*As far as I can tell, this plan has yet to be passed by the regional government but if it does and you're seriously looking to get your 10-yuan per day during your trip here, I wouldn't even know where to point you. Best of luck and please let me know who's handing out the money and where.

A Temporary Respite from the Stone Age

noreply@blogger.com (Josh) — Tue, 28 Jul 2009 23:30:00 +0000

423 unread emails.
1000+ unread RSS articles
49 blog comments I haven’t responded to
69 new Twitter “friends” because of the Urumqi riots

I have to admit that life without the internet is a life lived quite simply. I have read more books in the last 3 weeks than the previous three months combined. Of course the list above doesn’t make me exactly excited to get my life back online. I’m not sure whether to count it as a blessing or a curse that Xinjiang is by most reliable counts not expected to be back online until early October or later. The precedent set by Tibet last year was two months, but I think we’re gonna break that record by a mile.

So here I am on a train from Urumqi to Beijing, taking a break from reading another book, writing about not being able to get online. I expect this might be the first time in my life that I will actually be excited to see a dark room full of young adults and teenagers playing World of Warcraft or some other online game.

I am overwhelmed by the amount of news and controversy that has gone completely unheard by any person living within Xinjiang. I almost feel unqualified to write about what is happening here in my own home because everybody seems to know more than I do. During this internet blackout I have still continued to write about what I have experienced, however, and I will be posting a few articles to be scheduled over the next couple of weeks, including an entire series dedicated to the Urumqi riots.

Please enjoy and keep in mind that once I return to the black hole that currently is Xinjiang I will again be unable to return emails or answer comments. On a separate note, if you have any good books to send my way…

A Message From Behind Closed Doors

noreply@blogger.com (Josh) — Mon, 13 Jul 2009 15:37:00 +0000

It's been a terrible and awkward week this week here in Xinjiang, but things are finally calming down. For the first few days, the entire province was shut down, and although slowly things are being switched back on, sadly, the internet is not one of them. International phone lines have also yet to be returned.

Rumor around town is that this current phone and internet blackout could last anywhere from 3 more days to three more months (Oct. holiday). Until this black hole that we are living in returns to life, this blog will be taking a short break. I see no other solution. I am also unable to check my email, so please forgive me if I haven't replied to you. Things have calmed, but life in Xinjiang is definitely changing.

I hope that by the time that everything is reopened, the stories that I would like to tell will still be relevant. Until then, be safe, and don't forget us.

The July 4th Incident: Revenge of the Angry Expats

noreply@blogger.com (Josh) — Thu, 09 Jul 2009 23:30:00 +0000

I've mentioned this story once before on this site but I find it so amusing that I decided to share it one more time in light of America's Independence Day. For any person who has lived in China during the Spring Festival you'll appreciate what these women were trying to do. Absolutely true story.

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Once upon a time, in a small town in the northern part of Xinjiang there lived two women who were English teachers. Hardworking, dedicated, and reliable, these women usually stayed under the radar and provided no problems for the school or the local police bureau. Nobody had taken the time to see that these women were frustrated, and they had spent much time prior to this July 4th planning to exact their revenge.

The anger began building earlier that year during the days leading up to and immediately following Spring Festival, also known as the Chinese New Year. All throughout the country, for anywhere from three to seven days, the deafening sound of Chinese firecrackers (see an example video I posted earlier) reverberate off every wall in the city creating an almost unbearable coffin of noise. Very few foreigners can live through this experience without complaining even a little or just leaving the country, but these women went a step further.

Pooling their resources they had the foresight to buy boxes full of the few remaining firecrackers in the city and store them away in their apartment for four months. Forget the fire hazard, this was war. On the outside these women were the perfect English teachers who had quickly adapted to expat life in China, but their closet spoke differently.

Four months later on July 4th these boxes of firecrackres came out of hiding and were unloaded in the small neighborhood courtyard. Most of these local Chinese people had no idea today was a special day in America, but they were about to find out. As lights began to turn off and people drifted to sleep, two matches were lit.

Then the noise began. Bam! Pop! Crack-crack-cra-cra-crack!!

And it didn't stop. Not for 30 minutes, and even then it wasn't because they ran out of firecrackers! The police had arrived as well as the school officials and practically the entire neighborhood. Nobody was sleeping at this late hour due to the incredible racket the firecrackers had made. These women were crazy, they could all agree on this, but what to do with them?

In the end the firecrackers were confiscated and everybody was sent home. A warning was issued but no action was taken. The battle may have been lost, but these two women demonstrated a resolve and a bravery not often found in your typical expat in China. They told China what most of us here only wish we could say:

"We hate your noisy firecrackers! The least you could do is make 'em look pretty."

Religion in the Xinjiang Desert: Worship of An Unlikely Object

noreply@blogger.com (Josh) — Tue, 07 Jul 2009 23:30:00 +0000

I'd like to introduce you to one of the most popular buildings in Karamay, a small city of only 200,000 people here in Xinjiang. This building of worship was built only a few years ago and to the naked eye looks similar to what you'd find on many street corners in the United States. Just like its western counterparts, this place provides comfort and refuge from the harsh realities of life as well as a community of people who share a common passion. It represents the only place of worship that is not only accepted by the local government but also boasts a large membership their ranks.

Inside the main auditorium, however, you won't find mass seating, a choir loft or a pulpit. It isn't really a church although it could be considered a religion. Here in the middle of the desert it is a worship of the one thing most sacred and valuable to life here: the religion of water.

Up until only a couple of decades ago water was a scarce commodity in this part of Xinjiang. The only reason this city even exists is thanks to all the oil that lies beneath the arid surface. Back in the 1950's and 60's water used to be collected in large containers and transported by camels back to the oil workers. The water was then rationed, allowing each individual only one basin of water per day in which to bathe, wash clothes, and cook.

Fast forward to the present, thanks to the series of reservoirs and diverted rivers, every household is provided with running water while sprinklers water the lush gardens of the beautiful new city park. A small, man-made river cuts through the center of town eventually draining into the large town reservoir. Every night during the warmer months this river walk is lined with people who come to enjoy the plentiful water while trying to forget that they are living in the midst of a very dry desert.

The main attraction along this river is a spectacular water show that overshadows anything I have seen back in America. Water dances to music in choreographed movements while being shot as a high as 70 meters into the sky. The city has somehow taken the region's most scarce commodity and turned it into a form of entertainment.

To top it all off, as if all this worship has garnered the favor Poseidon, weather has shifted and precipitation has noticeably increased even during the three years that I have lived here. The city streets, which were originally built without a drainage system due to the lack of rains in the past, now easily flood during the spring months.

It is common knowledge that atheism is the official religion of the Chinese government, but one look at many cities in Xinjiang will reveal monuments to the one religion they do promote - the worship of water.

Xinjiang Crippled by Urumqi Riots; Curfew Set

noreply@blogger.com (Josh) — Sun, 05 Jul 2009 18:46:00 +0000

On Sunday, July 5th at around 9:30pm Beijing time, a riot began which has crippled Urumqi, the capital of China's Xinjiang province. As with any such event here in China, reports are sketchy and numbers vary drastically. Misleading photos and estimations are already circulating all over the web. Reliable details won't be available for at least another 24 hours, but here is a list of what can be confirmed:

Many Uyghurs have taken to the streets of Urumqi, overturning vehicles and breaking store windows.
Deaths have occurred (reports of three as of this writing, but not confirmed) SEE UPDATE BELOW
A curfew has been set for all residents of Urumqi (official government-issued announcement)
Most videos and pictures about this riot are being blocked in the mainland as soon as they appear on the internet.

What is not clearly known at this time is the reason for the riots. Most people speculate that it has something to do with the incident in Shaoguan in which a toy factory brawl left 2 Uyghurs dead and many more injured. Blame for the Urumqi riot will most likely land on the shoulders of Rabiya Kadeer, one of the most prominent Uyghur leaders who had called for the Uyghurs to protest this incident.

If you are planning on traveling to Xinjiang anytime this week it might be wise to reconsider your plans. Security will definitely be tight and police on high alert at this time.

An update will be made once further information is gathered, but until then you can read more here:

The New Dominion: Riots in Urumqi - Videos
ESWN - The Urumqi Mass Incident (New Roundup)
Reuters - Riot Strikes China's Xinjiang Region Capital

Update 7/6: The internet has now been cut as well as all international phone lines. Communication outside of Xinjiang has become extremely difficult, rendering regular updates to this article impossible.

Update 7/31: The China Daily reports that the riots left 197 people dead and over 1700 injured. Over the past month over 1,600 people have been detained in connection to the riots with trials to begin in mid-August.

The Famous Xinjiang Muslim Market

noreply@blogger.com (Josh) — Thu, 02 Jul 2009 23:30:00 +0000

Every Friday (or sometimes Sunday) in cities all over Xinjiang, small blocks in the middle of the city are transformed into a maze of stalls, carts, and mobile kitchens. For the entire afternoon the buzz of marketplace activity breathes life into what during the rest of the week is usually an empty lot. You can visit a Muslim Market as far away as Shanghai and the most famous can be found in cities such as Kashgar or Hotan (Khotan), but in fact any Xinjiang city that boasts a community of Uyghurs, which should be all of them, will most likely hold their own Muslim Market.

It's not hard to spot a Muslim Market. Just look for the pillar of smoke rising from within the city signaling all the kebab grills being put to good use. Unless some building happens to catch fire on a Friday afternoon, this is the fastest way to find one. Of course there's also the wall of vendor noise and sizzling pots that also indicates the presence of a lively market.

Where I live the Friday Market happens to be located in a small square next door to the city's largest mosque. It's the same square that holds all the sheep being sold during the very important Corban Festival. When empty the square looks quite small, yet during Friday market it seems as though the area stretches to hold the numerous vendors that come to sell goods and food. I don't normally eat lunch out here. My stomach has taken a beating on more than one occasion from the meat that has been hanging out in the sun all day long. Instead, my goal on this hot day is to get my hands on a nice cup of Uyghur ice cream.

This particular market happens to be divided into three parts: vendors selling hot food, vendors selling goods, and finally vendors selling fresh produce. I entered the market on the side of the hot food vendors and was greeted by lines of makeshift tents, the aroma of roasted lamb, and skinned animal carcases hanging on either side. A simple glance to my left revealed sheep and goats heads which had been slow roasted and were starring me in the face.

After holding my breath during the entire stretch of outdoor restaurants I was relieved to finally breathe semi-fresh air once I reached the clothing and trinkets vendors. In the past I have bought knives, beautiful fabric, and some clothes here but today I was just trying to pass through. I was stopped, however, by the funny sounds of a man emphatically selling his wares off the hood of his car. Forget Chinese herbal medicine, this guy was hawking some crazy junk and people were buying it. Skin remedies, snake venom, and vials full of who-knows-what could reputedly cure most anything. Satisfaction guaranteed.

I wasn't really into that, though, and thankfully I could see my holy grail, Uyghur ice cream, at the end of this aisle. Alongside stands selling various natural juice I found one lady with a big pile of fresh ice cream waiting for me to buy. Ice cream in hand I was able to quickly navigate my way out of the market and back to regular civilization.

The craziness that is a Xinjiang Muslim Market is a wonderful thing to experience, but my complete exhaustion and cultural overload after this short trip makes me happy it only occurs one day out of the week.