fashion popcorn

Fashion Popcorn has moved!

noreply@blogger.com (Emily Fleuriot) — Thu, 24 Jun 2010 22:08:00 +0000

We've got all grown up, and now have a proper domain name!

See you at: www.fashionpopcorn.com

WESC, MP3s and poetry installed at Oasis AW10 showcase

noreply@blogger.com (Emily Fleuriot) — Thu, 15 Apr 2010 22:00:00 +0000

UK retailer Oasis's autumn/winter 2010 preview featured recorded poetry readings playing on D-Jix MP3 players attached to cascading white, floor-to-ceiling ribbon columns as focal points among the more expected LBDs (which Oasis does so well), elegant mannequins and glass-topped display cabinets.

Using chic, white WESC headphones, guests could catch specially-commisioned stanzas by poets Susanna Cole, Laura Dockrill and Sophie (sister of Gemma) Ward, who had been invited to respond to the high street retailer's new collection.

With a nod to the more traditionally-minded among us, we were able to take away calling cards, printed with the poet's biog and poem, attached to the ribbons with bulldog clips - this season's fashpack accessory.

The showroom also featured a filmed 'digital lookbook' playing on a flatscreen.

Oasis has been thinking beyond the immediate sphere of fashion for some time now, notably with its sponsorship of the biennial Fashion in Film Festival in 2007, and it was interesting to see it exploring audience engagement in this way, even if it wasn't ahead of the curve in terms of technology.

Communications for the high street brand are managed by an in-house team. An aesthectically-compelling Oasis blog and active Twitter account both offer its audience competitions and special discounts. the team also produces a print customer magazine.

Rankin & Chris and Noisettes join Dr Martens' birthday stomp

noreply@blogger.com (Emily Fleuriot) — Wed, 14 Apr 2010 19:37:00 +0000

As a teen, I was known for my purple, square-toed Dr Martens (my perky take on the 90s' angsty-grunge look), and the past few seasons have seen the original stomper boot brand steadily rebuilding its sartorial sway ahead of its 50th anniversary this year.

Working with PR and branding agency exposure, Dr Martens commissioned 10 of the noughties' hottest musical things to re-interpret of 10 cult songs released since its 1960 inception, and 10 super-cool music videos by iconic directors, to boot. Boasting a stellar line up including Black Rebel Motorcycle Club, Noisettes and The Raveonettes, the final seven are released between May 17 and November 1.

Featured on the brands' birthday microsite, and downloadable, three songs have been released so far, including this glam Buzzcocks number by the Noisettes, directed by Rankin & Chris (Cottam). The videos are uploaded to a dedicated Youtube channel and will be deployed in social media campaigns. We're looking forward to Buraka Som Sistema's take on Neneh Cherry's Buffalo Stance, released May 17.

The offical 50 years of Dr Martens Facebook page has 3724 aficionados so far. An unofficial Dr Martens presence, erroneously listed as a 'company', is pushing 68,000 fans, despite the threat of closure by the social network's officals.

GFW students Rankin the industry

noreply@blogger.com (Emily Fleuriot) — Mon, 22 Mar 2010 16:16:00 +0000

Graduate Fashion Week has not only hooked in uber-snapper Rankin to shoot this year's publicity campaign, but has also announced a reflective industry award, voted for by students themselves. Fashion/Popcorn is currently investigating how this award with be nominated and votes cast; certainly we think it presents a perfect opportunity for souping-up the event's digital presence and engaging its audience - let's see if it's fully exploited.

Turning tables on the industry, 2010 graduates will pick the public personality who 'pushes the boundaries of fashion', and inspires them the most. This person doesn't have to be fashionista, per se, so we wait with bated breath to see who scoops the accolade - will 2010's cohort choose an A-list model, a singer or a high profile designer, or dig a little deeper behind the scenes, highlighting the work of a supportive 'suit' or super-slick patterncutter?

In the decade since I graduated via GFW, has grown exponentially, particularly with the increasing professionalism of graduates, the advent of digital and six years-worth of River Island sponsorship. Certainly, River Island has seemingly benefitted hugely from association, putting its money where its mouth is, using the event as an opportunity to glean the cream of the crop before anyone else gets a look in!

For my money, it's a must-see talent and education showcase, a chance to interact with top notch creative bods competing more and more fiercely to gain a foothold in the industry. A ticketed event, GFW is open to the public.

Better than a stiffy - we're invited to Patty & Hills' birthday dinner

noreply@blogger.com (Emily Fleuriot) — Mon, 22 Mar 2010 14:13:00 +0000

Good friends Patty and Hills, who - to the best of my knowledge - have always seen the leotard as the staple of any stylista's wardrobe, are marking their birthday with a celebratory TV dinner at Faulkners Fish & Chip Restaurant.

I'm still not sold on the crotch region as erogenous zone, but Lady Gaga can't be wrong, so I'm watching them for style notes. No doubt their birthday suits will be spectacular.

Not only is Faulkners slapbang in the middle of my old stomping ground, Kingsland Road, home to the Kingsland Waste Market, it's also a stone's throw from the uber-cool Dalston Superstore, hang-out of fashionistas-galore. So, fish, chips and mushy peas, with a spangly cocktail for afters? Sold.

Patternity case

noreply@blogger.com (Emily Fleuriot) — Sat, 20 Mar 2010 21:26:00 +0000

Truffling through the global hyperweb... Checked out Rubbish website, which is pals with Patternity - a London design studio which seems to be inspired by anything from high octane (eg. supermodels) to the mundane (as in this pic of stacked baskets). I just like it.

Miuccia Prada renounces feminism?

noreply@blogger.com (Emily Fleuriot) — Wed, 03 Mar 2010 22:10:00 +0000

Vogue.com today reports that Miuccia Prada has renounced her renowned feminist status, believing that there is no longer such a thing. I can't agree with her entirely, and suspect that she is deliberately sparking debate among the all-too frequently apolitical masses - or the fashion crowd at the very least.

Widely respected for both her intellect and influence on the meta-trends, Prada commented 'When I used to be a feminist, I never dreamed that parameters of female beauty would actually get narrower'. Acutely observed. Women's role models are becoming all-too homogenous; we are increasingly presented with identikit, generationless females whose brainpower is only permitted for use in driving businesswoman/celebrity lifestyles, a la Cheryl Cole or Katie Price.

In striving for women's social, political and economic independence and equality with men, where, and at what point in the last 20 years, did we lose our way? Why are women still valued for their appearance above everything else they are able to offer to society?

Mummy fashionista hits London Fashion Week

noreply@blogger.com (Emily Fleuriot) — Sat, 20 Feb 2010 19:43:00 +0000

London Fashion Week has hit the Big Smoke - the perfect excuse to hop back on the fashion gravy train for the first time since the arrival of our beautiful baby boys, Freddie and Bert, in April 2009.

Being mum certainly rocks more than anything else I've ever done, but there's always room for a dash o' fashion in my life, plus being accosted by several handfuls of 'street style' snappers does wonders for a mummy's fashsteem (fashion self-esteem).

My last post I was celebrating the growing trend for make-it-yourself fashion, unaware of the Bean and Pea growing inside me. Fast forward 18 months, with my hard-earned creative space transferred to the temporary ownership of my two matching boys, and the hardcore, 24/7 schedule of mumhood, I haven't had much time to haul out the sewing machine. Miraculously, I did run up a bridesmaid dress when the boys were two months old - perhaps I was delirious? - and plan on getting back on the case in the very near future.

For now though, I'm drinking in LFW's best like a thirsty infant. I've made a mental note to self to seriously consider the ubiquitous shoeboot as one to invest in, although I'm not sure what my abdominals think about that... so I've also made a note to self to actually do the exercises that will mean I can wear skyscraper heels without causing long-term postural issues.

There lies the crux of the issue: I still want to wear the very same looks that I might've done BP (before pregnancy), but having gone through pregnancy and now being a mother, my criteria for selection and excitement is shifted somewhat. Always one to consider the ethics of a purchase, its provenance, its longterm relevance to my wardrobe, my checklist now has a lot of points before I'll make the commitment: Can I breastfeed in that look? Will milk/sick/food/snot show up on that pattern? Is it washable? I can happily report that the style switch is still flipped on, and there's no requirement to resort to ropey mum-specific brands to be, well, a practical but stylish mummy.

photo: at London Fashion Week. Beret and cape (handy when I was pregnant!), vintage. Make-up, MAC.

Trumpeting the cause of haberdashery...

noreply@blogger.com (Emily Fleuriot) — Tue, 26 Aug 2008 20:10:00 +0000

PHOTO: Paul Grover, Sunday Telegraph.
Unbeknown to me at the time, last week saw the the House of Lords discuss the apparent wastefulness of women's approach to fashion, as manifested - as they saw it - in their lust for the latest must-haves and the buy 'em cheap, pile 'em high attitude which, until recently, overran purchasing habits like a plague of rats.
Talk about last season. The tide has turned, my Lords, and if people aren't always picking up the most ethical label possible - yet - it does feel to me that, where they can afford to, people thinking more about the provenance of their purchases and the need for them before slapping down the credit card.
While I can see where the initial spark of appeal can lie in the rooting out of a bargain, it is a flame that flickers and dies almost instantly. For me, the burning question is always - how can it be possible to buy a pair of jeans for £3 - surely that cannot be sustainable? No way does that get to the shop counter without exploitation at some point along the way - so no way does it make it into by shopping bag. Maybe it is the control freak in me, but I find it hard to part with the cold hard reddies without a fair idea where my money is going. For this reason, I have found myself truffling through second hand shops more and more, and - since I now finally have 'A Room of One's Own' - making more of my own clothes.
It transpires that I am not alone in this shift away fom straight up clothes buying and a return back to the 'make do and mend' mentality of granny's time - on Thursday I had a call from someone who recalled that I'd sewn up by own dress for a mutual friend's wedding, asking if I'd be interviewed by fashion writer Clare Coulson for a Sunday Telegraph news review feature on the very subject of making and customising clothes.
The article makes interesting reading, highlighting the very real shift towards handcrafts, sewing clothes from scratch and customising old garments - sales of sewing machines at John Lewis are reportedly up an amazing 46% on this time last year, with sales of buttons and haberdashery also significantly improving - it seems that the handcraft trend is not just for the catwalk.
Making your own clothes, or even dabbling in a little bit of cut and customising can give second-hand or old favourites a completely new appeal. It is an opportunity to engage with a straightforward and satisfying process, with a start, middle and definitive end - so rare in the hectic schedule of most of our modern lives (mine included!). Most importantly, it means that rather than letting shops dictate the trends that you should be wearing, and how you'll wear them, you choose exactly how you choose to present yourself to the world.
So, I am now officially famous -well at least for the next week while the article remains online! - and will keep you updated on my seamstress exploits!

PS. The dresses in the photos were both made using Vogue patterns bought at under-the-radar, independent south London haberdashery mecca Wimbledon Sewing Machine Company at 292/312 Balham High Road (near Tooting Bec LUL) - Tel: 0208 767 4724. Stocks everything that you need for every type of craft - sewing machines, fabric, card making, embroidery, knitting - you name it. Fantastic.

The fabric for the maxidress (a Liberty print lawn cotton) was from the fabulous, family-run Borovick Fabrics on Berwick Street, Soho (I love these guys) and, at £10 p/m, half the price of buying it up the road at the department store itself. The fabric for the shorter, 50s-style number was scooped up at Sovereign Textiles at 113 Mitcham Road (near Tooting Broadway LUL), which specialises in Dutch wax print cottons for West Africa, for a bargainous £10 for six metres.

PPS. The blackwood bangles were sourced by a family friend directly from the producer at a Mozambique local market.

Liberty promises stellar Christmas experience

noreply@blogger.com (Emily Fleuriot) — Tue, 22 Jul 2008 20:19:00 +0000

Luxury emporium Liberty in which, in my fantasies, I would happily shop for eternity, revealed a gorgeous 'advent calendar' concept for its Christmas campaign, which will - scarily - be in store in a matter of months, with the glitter and bauble-laden Christmas shop opening later this month.

A six foot high mock up of the store replete with giant advent calendar windows and scenes behind, in a room strewn with fairy lights, set the Christmas anticipation flowing, even if it is a little premature. I particularly loved a dining scene featuring a languorous hostess in a ochre silk dress draped across her finest china. Will be trying a new approach to entertaining at this year's seasonal drinks party.

Needless to say the quest for perfect birthday gift continues, and in one of the tableaux spied this gobstopper of a ring by Mawi - an eau de nil crystal set on a gold ring, which may jostle for a position on the wishlist. Also noted these rather luscious teal stilettos by Nicholas Kirkwood, a name buzzing on the lips of every shoe aficionado in the know, and really can see why.

Fantasy eyelashes courtesy of Shu Uemura and Viktor & Rolf

noreply@blogger.com (Emily Fleuriot) — Tue, 22 Jul 2008 19:58:00 +0000

Gratuitous for a Tuesday lunchtime, perhaps, but there's nothing like a pair of Swarovski-embellished false eyelashes to pep up a work-a-day face. I nipped into Liberty to peruse their Christmas fantasies and came out sporting some fab Shu Uemura falsies, lustrous black with a strip of silver glitter and mini diamante at the root, slick eyeliner-style. Added vim an otherwise pedestrian outfit of black shirt dress and flesh tone heels, and made returning to the office altogether more exciting. I was very disappointed when the sheer quantity of slap applied in the morning meant they were soon working their way of my eyelid - before I could get a pic too - boo! Upside is that they last up to 10 wears, so next time a pic will materialise!
That said, the these lashes were great, but Shu Uemura's collaboration with fashion's Viktor & Rolf trumped them hands down - three ultra-ultra glamourous false eyelashes which sang from the Dutch duo's design songsheet - looped black lashes, princess cut gold metal numbers, plus an exaggerated, elongated option like a bird's wing in flight,all presented on a white mask like demi-face in a white presentation box. You'd never want to wear them, but they are something to covet, plus they are oh so timely, given the current House of Viktor and Rolf showcase at the Barbican.
Only marginally less showtastic were the Shu Uemura black lace falsies and teal marabou option, again, my sparklies were pale in comparison to these beauties.
It sounds like Shu Uemura has a fair few exciting tricks up its sleeve, product-wise, in the near future, so watch this space as I have been promised early heads up!

Scott's for le vrai fashion popcorn - with hot sauce!

noreply@blogger.com (Emily Fleuriot) — Mon, 21 Jul 2008 19:11:00 +0000

The weekend just gone I was very excited to dine at Scott's on Mount Street in Mayfair - a street which is one of the London shopping destinations du jour. It was a celebratory treat, as Scott's is not an everyday kind of place (unless you are a lucky, lucky individual), although the excellent service was just the right side of familiar and never snobbish - always the sign of a good restaurant. You might be wondering why this tale has a place in my fashion blog, but I have decided it can be justified as a. Mount Street has some very cool shops, and b. Scott's serves up a dessert option of 'popcorn ice-cream' - and if fashion popcorn were a dish, this is the dish it would be.
Real vanilla ice-cream, a handful of baked toffee popcorn (swish Butterkist) and a good measure of hot, dark chocolate sauce in a wee silver jug which you can pour yourself or the waiter will assist if you are too weak with anticipation. Absolutely straight to the top of my dessert top 10 - I have eaten three mini Magnums today in an unsuccessful effort to fill the void left by no popcorn ice-cream today. Unfortunately, due to high celeb/VIP count, no pics were allowed so I cannot illustrate, you will have to use your imagination until such a time as I attempt to recreate it at home...!
Oh yes and the shopping. Obviously nipped into Marc Jacobs store, where there was a fabulous 70% sale on (thank God I was on my way elsewhere or mightn't have left without spending a pretty penny), ahead of the new season's collections arriving this week for the keen shoppers among us. One of the shop's ultra-cool staff confirmed plans for a Marc by Marc Jacobs standalone shop for London this autumn - which is great for the more price-conscious! - plus learned Lanvin is a rumoured future addition in the vicinity - we will wait to see. There are definitely a few shop front renovations going on along Mount Street; noted Fiona Knapp and Wunderkind as soon to open additions to the mixer.
So anyway, a good meal and mini retail browse done, and we headed to the Royal Festival Hall on the South Bank, where as dusk fell we played the interactive Volume scuplture, by United Visual Artists - a mesmerising arrangement of jutting light and sound-emitting columns which react to the people walking around and between them. We then headed up to Skylon bar, grill and restaurant - named in homage to the massive elliptical sculpture erected riverside for the 1951 Festival of Britain. Its double height glass frontage onto a fabulous view across the water, and its chic fixtures and fittings with just a brush of nostalgic retro made it a fitting place for an end-of-evening cocktail.

Fashion photography's A-list turns the lens inward at The Photographers' Gallery

noreply@blogger.com (Emily Fleuriot) — Thu, 17 Jul 2008 19:19:00 +0000

Sooo... Soho-bound for a splash of musical theatre (Jersey Boys - who knew how prolific Frankie Valli and the Four Seasons were? 5 stars etc) spotted the mill of a private view around the entrance to The Photographers' Gallery. Took it as the sign that fashion snappery exhibition - Fashion in the Mirror: Self-Reflection in Fashion Photography - which kicks off tomorrow, was in celebration mode. Obviously I had other fish to fry yesterday evening, but it it definitely high on the list as a must-do cultural experience, especially given the exhaustive (exhausting?!?) list of fashion's favourites on the roll call.
I haven't checked it out quite yet, so at this stage this is all based on hearsay (verdict and pics will be returned in near future), but it's a curated exhibition of the lens being turned on a selection of eminent snappers de la mode, turning the camera back through its own lens to convey the image-makers and the processes around the production of the final, glossy image. The who's who includes 20+ international and agenda-setting names, from the old school - Helmut Newton, Harri Peccinotti (he of the original and best Sunday Times mag of the 70s if my theory classes serve me right), Norman Parkinson, Irving Penn to name a few - to the current - Nick Knight, Mario Testino, Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin, and Tim Walker (who has a solo London show on right now, I believe) among others.
How much these guys - and yes, bar one, they're all guys (would one or two more women - Corinne Day, Sarah Moon - have hurt?) - would actually tear apart their persona and their environment I'm not sure, as they are astute creators well aware of the power of the photographic image and - I would imagine - would want to ensure that their authoritative position remains intact. That said, it will be interesting to see the work of such prominent photographers grouped together - to see the parallels, the lineage, the relationships between styles and attitudes. Will be checking it out before it closes on September 14, for sure...

OPI and Vive La France!

noreply@blogger.com (Emily Fleuriot) — Tue, 15 Jul 2008 21:52:00 +0000

Just a teeny, tiny post today, as it is getting on in the evening and I at least need to pretend that I have better things to do than sit here blogging away at all hours...

I nipped into the autumn/winter 2008 preview-cum-party for beauty brand OPI, purveyor of nail varnish of kooky name fame (Don't Socra-tease me!; Chick Flick Cherry etc etc). I am a sentimental fool, but very excited to learn that this season's theme (always based on a geographic location) is none other than La France, with plenty of reference to Paris thrown in for good measure - apt perhaps given that the event took place one day after Bastille Day (July 14). I have a strong affection for the country - what with my ancestors skipping from Brittany to Mauritius about 200 years ago - plus its fabulous capital city, even more so since it has huge romantic connotations for me - my last trip was topped off by a proposal on La Tour Eiffel as all the monuments were illuminated - maybe it was the cliche we all fear but it didn't feel it at the time that's for sure...
So come July, or whenever the new colours hit the salons, I will very definitely be sporting 'We'll Always Have Paris', an ultra-aged wine red (pictured, though doesn't do it justice); plus of course 'Eiffel For This Colour', a similar hue, but with a touch of sparkle and slightly pinkier; and most probably 'You Don't Know Jacques', although this one'll be more for the khaki-taupe matt shade than the name necessarily, as it'll make a great addition to the autumn wardrobe.

Little Jewellery Boutique London throws up lush Alexis Bittar cocktail ring

noreply@blogger.com (Emily Fleuriot) — Mon, 14 Jul 2008 17:39:00 +0000

Just a day into my hunt for the perfect cocktail ring, and already hit upon option number one. Hooked up the Little Jewellery Boutique London website - word of which had come from hip jeweller Laila Aitken (she of Delaila fame) when at the Anedoti pop-up in early June - and within seconds happened upon this little beauty by Alexis Bittar nestled among LJB London's bevy of covetable, sparkly lovelies.
Couldn't see much in the way of info about what this ring is made from and the rest (would've been useful maybe), but the look says it all to me - a handsome 2.5x3.5cm diameter multi-faceted stone, this is definitely a statement ring. Loving the greenish hue of the stone, which has a heritage vibe, plus the gold studs on the mount, which add a touch of rock and roll class; at £200 I think it's a bit of a steal - not cheap enough for everyday purchasing but still in the 'affordable' price bracket.
Somehow Alexis Bittar had escaped my attention before now, so checked out his website and sounds like he's been around for a wee while - New York-based and a member of the CFDA (the US designers' club) - but his designs feel really fresh and totally unstuck. Apparently his debut collection was made from reworked pieces of depression-era chandelier glass -loving the provenance factor, always exciting. Would like to stay the trail stops here, but just need to keep mooching around and see what else is out there for the birthday wish list...

Two month countdown to Big 3-0

noreply@blogger.com (Emily Fleuriot) — Sun, 13 Jul 2008 12:05:00 +0000

Can't believe day almost passed without reference to the fact that it is two months to the day til my birthday... the Big 3-0 in fact (like being 18 but with money so I've heard!).
Have made the decision that big present this year has to be a fabulous cocktail ring and have decided to start - and document - the hunt here on Fashion Popcorn. Am thinking something along the lines of this high-kitsch paste jewellery which was such a vital element of my NYE pirate look, but very slightly more expensive, natch...

Grown up body shimmer from Michael Kors Beauty

noreply@blogger.com (Emily Fleuriot) — Sun, 13 Jul 2008 09:33:00 +0000

As previously posted, my affection for sparkle - even just a touch - knows no bounds; I do have concerns that throwing a handful of Jones Tones pvc glitter randomly over my torso will no longer suffice, however, and am always on the look out for the more mature approach to body sheen.
This 'Leg Shine' stick from Michael Kors Beauty is one such option. Needless to say there's no rule saying that it is only for pins and can't be worn anywhere and everywhere (though possibly drawing a line at the face?), so I tried it out last night on my arms and 'decolleté', as the gloomy sky didn't shout bare legs at me. It added added a lovely subtle gold sheen, and a delicate waft of the Michael Kors's fragrance, a gentle but deep floral - tuberose? - scent (practising my 'nose' - usually with wine tho - so may be way off!). I am trying to illustrate the sparkle potential here, but needless to say my camera phone just doesn't quite capture the minutae of detail so not convinced it does it justice - although it does illustrate how practical the packaging is - glitter stays on the stick and your body rather than exploding everywhere!
Oh and digging my cluncky blackwood bangles - sourced from a family friend in her local market in Mozambique - stack em high! Perfect for accessorising a bright outsized floral print dress which needs strong jewellery to prevent excessive girlydom...

Mamma Mia! - get your Keds on!

noreply@blogger.com (Emily Fleuriot) — Fri, 11 Jul 2008 10:31:00 +0000

Last night found myself, with a gaggle of girlfriends, at Clapham Picture House for Mamma Mia! The Movie. More or less an interactive cinema experience. Once one of our party had got over the shock that they actors were singing their way through the film (the term musical passed her by) we suspended disbelief and, aided by a glass of wine or possibly two (beauty of indy cinemas), spent the next two hours trying not to sing so loud we drowned out the real singing, which was inevitably more tuneful than us.

Arguably this isn't a fashion film - unless you count metallic glamrock ultra-flares and stack boots, various swimwear options and a splash of Missoni - but it's definitely got a few touches of excitement. Meryl Streep looks very cool in her dungarees - a personal guilty pleasure of my weekend wardrobe - and dirtied up Keds. I now appreciate why my friend took it upon himself to stamp on my pristine, fresh white Keds - at the time I sulked but now I realise they just can't be mucky enough. Meryl's were sandied up, camoflage in a dusty Greek island environment, and looked truly insoucient - although still love Baby's zippy take on the sneaks in Dirty Dancing. Come what may, am going out this weekend to specifically grime mine up...

By the end of the film, as far as I was concerned, Meryl Streep, Julie Walters and Christine Baranski were in the cinema with us and knew we were singing and dancing in the aisles. What had started as a grown-up night out at the flicks morphed into convincing the waiter at Green & Blue wine bar that Madonna was definitely appropriate for a chic wine-fuelled environment - a decision possibly regretted when we decided to add our own vocals to La Madgesty's. Tripping on into the night we espied Dee-lite on the VJ screen at the Kaz-bah, its light up dance floor and an intuitive DJ (Tiffany's I Think We're Alone Now hit the mix as soon as we stepped onto said dancefloor), and we were out on the tiles for the duration. Tied up my blouse 80s-tastic style to expose my midriff and we proceeded to pull out the 'mean Britney', 'Showgirls gone wild' and various other 'best of' dance moves til home time...

Putting on my festival face

noreply@blogger.com (Emily Fleuriot) — Tue, 24 Jun 2008 20:09:00 +0000

Still on the festival tip, have decided to go all out and make a sartorial effort for Glasto this weekend, including actually putting some make-up on. This is mainly based on how rough I look in all the photos last year. I can't let myself fall so low again.

So quick pitstop into MAC after work today to pick up a luminescent Liquidlast Liner in Aqualine - a sparkling neon turquoise - to sport with my Paintpot (a creamy-eyeshadow) in Delft, a petrol blue metallic. Have the same liner in a gilt shade and it NEVER comes off, so in theory I can pass out in my sleeping bag and wake-up looking as fresh as a daisy (if daisy's wore full make-up). Am thinking dark, smoky blue eyes, ultra-wide electric eyeliner and - possible - a smattering of iridesccent glitter. Back to the Princess Sparkle persona of my university days. Lush.

Oh, and, very excited to learn that if you take six empty plastic or glass MAC products back to the shop, they give you a FREE lipstick of your choice. That's what I call recycling at its best. I'm saving.

Festival goggles - Rayban or not to??

noreply@blogger.com (Emily Fleuriot) — Mon, 23 Jun 2008 21:55:00 +0000

I feel that I have been neglectful of late; almost six days have passed but no post. My whole other life was beginning to go to the dogs, and all the excitement of degree shows had addled my brain, so forgive me.

So yesterday, the shopping revved up again, as I found myself preparing for festival season in true Brit style - undertaking the ominous task of buying suitable waterproof. Have I mentioned that at last years Glastonbury the weather was so bad that I cried. Well I did. It was horrible. Of course, yes, I could've eschewed Glasto altogether, what with it being year of the 'boutique festival' after all, but it's all for charity and the kids in Nicaragua need every penny they can get.
Let's just say that in my Craghoppers Aquadry - men's style not women's as they were in lame-O colours - I look like Ian Brown gone female. I reckon I can style it up mind, and found myself in Toppers (ie. Topshop) trying on dozens of pairs of cheap sunglasses. I have a fantasy that I own a pair of wayfarers, but then forget whether that was because I believe everything I see and/or read, or whether it's because I actually like them. I think I do, and I think it's because it reminds me of every cool 80s film - Lost Boys, Pretty in Pink, and on and on - and also of my mum and her cool friends who, c. 1985, all looked like the stars of those films but cooler still.

Feel like I should have taken a few more pics!!

Barbican stages The House of Viktor & Rolf

noreply@blogger.com (Emily Fleuriot) — Tue, 17 Jun 2008 15:07:00 +0000

I have just checked out The House of Viktor & Rolf exhibition at the Barbican, which opens tomorrow and runs til September 21. The fashion-meets-art Dutch duo were present, and will no doubt be presiding over a fabulous affair at tonight's private view, which I couldn't blag my way into - waah! These guys always make the headlines for their show-stopping looks, and what this showcase really brought home was how much went into each of these looks, but also how much of it was, ultimately, commercially viable and exciting, wearable fashion.
The two floor exhibition (I nearly missed the second floor!) delves into the past 15 years of the designers' work, from 1996's Launch, a scaled-down workshop, catwalk show and photoshoot and shop, isnpired by the atelier dolls of the post WW2 period (you may have seen at the V&A's Age of Couture?) and fake concept perfume, via the 2004 pink and black, be-ribboned and bows collection which promoted Flowerbomb, their first fragrance, through to the most recent catwalk extravaganzas. For any fashion fans, this is absolutely unmissable - I loved it.
A focal point of the exhibition is a six metre high dolls' house which reminded me of the royal dolls' houses in the RijksMuseum in Amsterdam (and thinking about it that is probably were they were inspired, given they are Dutch!) - each room was inhabited by porcelain dolls in the Victorian style, with glass eyes and real hair styled by a hairdresser, each wearing a miniature version of one of the Viktor & Rolf designs. Some were arranged in tableaux, such as the Flowerbomb collection on ladders a la the famous Dior models portrait of 1957, and The Fashion Show models, with their personal catwalk rigging. Have you read the Wolves of Willoughby Chase by Joan Aitken? Let's just say that this house brought part of that story to life - it's more or less the ultimate dolls house for the spoilt little rich girl.
Other than the dolls' house, a mixture of installation and life-sized mannequins with doll heads were used to display the actual garments, usually accompanied by a film of the associated catwalk shows; this included Maggie Rizer in the Russian Doll collection, still on arotating stand, like a music box ballerina, being dressed, layer after layer, from a hessian and gilt slip through to a padded cape which obliterated her form. I was transfixed by a film of a collection inspired by Yves Klein blue, in which increasing amounts of the blue screen blue were incorporated into outfits, and images - snowscapes, city ringroads, coral reefs - projected onto the models' bodies.
I could wax lyrical about the exhibition all day, but I won't, instead I urge you to sample it for yourself - this is the first UK exhibition from Viktor & Rolf and is a perfect opportunity to ensure that you have mastered all the basics of their approach and are ready for whatever they throw at us next.

Central Saint Martins throws open degree show doors

noreply@blogger.com (Emily Fleuriot) — Tue, 17 Jun 2008 14:53:00 +0000

Central Saint Martins was officially my last pitstop on my whirlwind tour of graduate shows last week. On Friday, June 13, the college hosted the private view for its fashion and fine arts show at its Charing Cross Road building, which is now open to the public.
It is shameful to admit it, but I hadn't previously visited the hallowed halls of this building, which sweep the visitor up into its excitement. The space had a brilliant, electric vibe and I can see whay Louise Wilson, who is Course Director of the MA, is so aghast at their impending move to King's Cross. It made me want to go back to college, and soon, just to have had the experience of working in its shabby studios and stashing my work in its school-like lockers.
The work itself was high calibre, with some of the menswear graduates really standing out for their illustration and minutely observed flats - I always appreciate well-executed technical drawings! And the fashion communication course was ultra-inspiring, and a reminder of how vibrant and challenging publishing can be.
University of the Arts London hosts a Graduate Week, June 30-July 4, to offer advice and support to all students about to embark on their careers. I was very excited to be given one as in my mind it was because I looked like one of the students, but in reality was probably because everyone was being given them (I still choose to add it to my bank of ID-ing situations...). There are lots of criticism for some of the university's courses not offering enough support, but this course, which runs just as the graduates have got their heads around no longer being in education seems timely and useful.

Ravensbourne's Jessica Au takes Gold at River Island GFW Gala

noreply@blogger.com (Emily Fleuriot) — Thu, 12 Jun 2008 08:35:00 +0000

Last night the UK fashion industry's cognoscenti decended on Earl's Court 2 for the Graduate Fashion Week Gala, the 17th annual awards ceremony for graduating fashion students. Caryn Franklin, probably one of my formative fashion inspirations, hosted the event, at which River Island CEO Richard Bradbury confirmed a further year's sponsorship of GFW - confirming my earlier blog at the beginning of the week (you heard it hear first, fashion punters!).
Ravensbourne, which had gained plaudits for its show on Sunday, scooped two awards in the form of Jessica Au, who won both the top accolade of the River Island Gold Award and the Zandra Rhodes Catwalk Textiles Award for her menswear collection of wool and satin tailored suits and separates printed with clashing, blown-up floral forms in pinks, purples, reds and whites - kind of a radioactive Paul Smith pushed to its limits.
The winner of the Womenswear Award was Nabil El Nayal, from Manchester School of Art, whose monochrome collection of voluminous Victoriana nightgown, blouses and dresses, as well as high waisted tux trousers in chiffon, satin and cotton had been my personal favourite at that college's show.
Ria Thomas, of Nottingham Trent University, picked up the Pringle of Scotland Visionary Knitwear Award, and quite rightly so - her open knit dresses in sea blue-greys and cream were ultra-sexy, body conscious and innovative, and felt v. pleased with myself for having picked out another winner.
The Menswear Award went to Domingo Rodriguez, who had played with textures and transparencies in his slim-cut tailored collection in black and grey chiffon, knit, leather.
Notably, this year the British Fashion Council came on board as a sponsor, presenting the BFC Creative Cutting Award, developed to encourage technical skills among fashion students - this was won by Tim Rhys Evans, Manchester School of Art, whose toile and final piece was brought on stage to demonstrate his working method.
The fashion promotion and media awards continue to go from strength to strength, as the work entered gets better every year, and the winners are (deep breath!!): Strategic Marketing Award - Thomas Hopkins, University of Central Lancashire; Creative Marketing Award - Emily Bell, Northumbria, Fashion Marketing; Dalziel + Pow Stand Design Award - Northumbria, Fashion Marketing; Jon Adam Portfolio Award - Poppy Diver, Kingston; Society of Dyers and Colourists Award - Laura Fauvel, Ravensbourne; Mulberry Accessories Award - Sarah Kennedy, Northumbria, Fashion; Fashion Innovation Award - Thomas Rothery, Manchester School of Art; National Magazine 'First Word' Journalism Award - Jennifer Weibking, UCCA Epsom (which delivered all the nominees in this category!); and Media and Design Award - Lesley Schofield, University of Salford. Phew! Make a note of those names and these should be the names we are looking out for in the future. I made a note of Thomas Rothery's details, as his collection was ultra-bike friendly, and perfect for the bike catwalk show being planned later this year (the one I was wittering on about yesterday).
A key focus of the GFW team has been to underscore the professionalism of graduates' work, making sure that the global industry sits up, takes notice, and gives as many a job as possible. Certainly, last night's show exuded professionalism, and I have no doubt that each of the 16 design finalists have every chance to make it, as do the finalists in the fashion promotion and media awards, which were presented before the catwalk show. Before this, the potential of the finalists was highlighted with a mini showcase of former GFW graduates' work, with a look from the collections of: Julien Macdonald - 1993, Brighton; Amy Molyneaux, PPQ - 1999, University of Central Lancashire; Thea Bragazzi and Justin Thornton, Preen - 1993, University of Central Lancashire and Winchester, respectively; Richard Nicol - 2002, Central Saint Martins; Giles Deacon - 1992, Central Saint Martins; and Christopher Bailey - 1991, Westminster (he was the first ever GFW Designer of the Year, factfinders!). I really, sincerely hope that some of the names who won yesterday might be in a position to take place in a similar showcase, five, 10, 20 years down the line.
At the champagne reception and the aftershow party, the space was a buzz with positive feeling about the direction that GFW is heading, and also the new venue and iniatives at the event; no doubt it will continue to evolve on the same trajectory.
\\\\ PS. note for diary - bit premature possibly, but - next year's Graduate Fashion Week is set for June 7-11, 2009, same place.

GFW catwalk show: Manchester Metropolitan University

noreply@blogger.com (Emily Fleuriot) — Wed, 11 Jun 2008 12:22:00 +0000

This was the last show of the day and, despite it being a consistently excellent course, I was surprised to see so many empty seats as I would have thought lots more would want to check it out. Perhaps there is call to start the shows earlier in the day - although am sure that after 18 years GFW know what they are doing!
This was another show, like Nottingham Trent, which has a high degree of professionalism. That said, I felt it had more of the humour that was slightly lacking from NTU.
...design highlights to follow...

GFW catwalk show: Edinburgh College of Art

noreply@blogger.com (Emily Fleuriot) — Wed, 11 Jun 2008 12:18:00 +0000

Edinburgh is one of the new kids on the GFW block to some extent, having joined the line up within the last seven years. I am not very familiar with the college, but my understanding is that the fashion course is derived from a strong textiles background - fitting, given the strength of the Scottish textiles industry - and has strong links with its fellow art courses, in inspiration if not fact. It is the only Scottish college to show at the event and takes full advantage of the country's rich textiles tradition - certainly Scotland is keen to promote its wares at LFW, so I imagine (and would hope) that it is also a big supporter of its fashion graduates.
...design highlights to follow...