Last friday I was probably one of the first to enthusiastically order my Cyclehire annual key (£45) that allows me to have the first half hour of every ride I take for free for the whole year.

I downloaded an iPhone app called London Hire which tells you where the stations are and how many bays they have, but sadly can’t tell you how many bays are free. It is helpful, though, and I highly recommend you use it. It also gives you an idea of how vast they’ve made the network to start off with.

This morning, I went to the bike bay closest to where I live and crossed my fingers that all the bikes wouldn’t be taken. Thankfully they weren’t. I grabbed the closest one and tried unlocking it and the unlock succeeded, but I couldn’t take it out of the bay. What I later realized is that you actually have to lift it up a bit.. as its weight makes you feel that you can’t pull it out.

I got on the bike and started off. From the second I took off, the looks started.. I got looks from people crossing the street, kids, men in white vans, women, etc.. I actually got stopped by a few women at cross walks and at a stop light to ask me about how the bike was.. Curiosity factor is definetively high right now.

When arriving at the docking station near work, I did find that I got quite lucky as there was only one spot left. I could see where there may be, in the future when more people are doing this, that parking will become a problem when everyone is coming in to work and parking the bikes when you go home.

The ride itself isn’t so bad. The bike is a bit lethargic in its ride, but comfortable. The saddle they’ve chosen is designed to fit most people, so my race-saddle accustomed posterior was actually uncomfortable on the saddle. I had to shift around quite a bit (perhaps the nose was slightly not level). You can adjust seat height though, but no fore/aft, so I felt like was constantly trying to push myself back (I’m 5’9″). The brakes work well, and the ride quality is nice and plush. Definitevly a great short ride bike.

All in all, It was a fun experience and one that I will continue to use on an ad-hoc basis. It’s a great alternative to the other forms of transport and allows you to take quick rides to meet you friends and the pub, but not be worried about HAVING to cycle back after a few pints. Always consult your doctor before trying anything new and also don’t forget to use a helmet: mine has saved my life twice.

Accessories to consider:

1) A nice helmet that fits you well and not like a top hat.

2) Cycle insurance: http://www.eta.co.uk/2010/06/23/london-cycle-hire-has-name-and-first-docking-stations

3) A Road ID bracelet: http://www.roadid.com/Common/default.aspx

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The Jawbones are Oakley’s latest cycling friendly sunglasses.

I’ve had mine for about 7 months and they replaced Oakley’s Half-Jacket (I think).. which I had for about a year.

I was attracted not necessarily to the aesthetics of the Jawbones, but mostly the interchangeable lens system that it promotes.

On that side of things, I think they have been a success. The light lenses that the glasses came with got me through the winter, and now I use the dark ones. If there is a rainy day, I just swap the lenses accordingly..

From a looks-perspective, the fact that half the Tour de France peloton is wearing these makes wearing them in public with cycling people a simple fit-in. They’re cool. However, leave your cycling social circle, and you could argue that they are ugly.

From a quality perspective, they have lasted well so far, and seem well-built enough, however the lenses scratch easily.

From a visibility perspective is where I’d say I’m a little disappointed though.. firstly, I have the ‘vented’ lenses, and they don’t solve the issue.. I still get fogginess when stopping particularly.. also, because of the overly closed design of the frame, my peripheral vision is not as good as it was with my previous half-open Oakleys. However, this closed design has also prevented a few bugs from entering my eyes from below the lenses! So.. I guess there is always a trade-off.

In summary, I would recommend them, but keep in mind that they are not perfect and you may not need to ‘upgrade’ if you live in a consistently sunny area (like Florida) or get annoyed at fogged up glasses.

Related articles by Zemanta

• Oakley Launching Ultrapremium Sunglasses Line (shoppingblog.com)

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As for the right pressure, I found this handy guide on the internetz:

Originally posted by Speedlever on 07-20-08, 01:09 PM

My tires (700x25c) typically lose 5 to 10 psi per day. I check them before each ride.

I used to inflate my tires to the max suggested pressure. I now use this chart (http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=410701&highlight=formula+inflation+tire) to inflate my tires and the pressure is down considerably from the max.

In case the link doesn’t work, the original msg by Psimet2001 follows:
**********************************

Tip 1 – Inflate your tires before every single ride. Know what the proper inflation pressure should be for your tires. Inflation requirements will vary by rider, bike, tires, conditions, etc.

Below you will find equations that you can use to help determine an appropriate starting point using your weight and the tire’s size. Adjust from these baselines to suit needs and conditions.

Proper inflation is the easiet way to avoid flats.

Tire Width=20: Pressure(psi) = (0.33 * Rider Weight in lbs) + 63.33
Tire Width=23: Pressure(psi) = (0.33 * Rider Weight in lbs) + 53.33
Tire Width=25: Pressure(psi) = (0.33 * Rider Weight in lbs) + 43.33
Tire Width=28: Pressure(psi) = (0.33 * Rider Weight in lbs) + 33.33

Tire Width=32: Pressure(psi) = (0.17 * Rider Weight in lbs) + 41.67
Tire Width=37: Pressure(psi) = (0.17 * Rider Weight in lbs) + 26.67

Example: You are 150lbs running 28′s

Pressure (psi) = (0.33*150) +33.33 = 82.83psi (rear)
Front Pressure = .9*Rear Pressure = .9*82.83psi = 74.55psi front
*********************

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Press Release from Polar Regarding the CS500 -

Polar, the market leader and pioneer in heart rate training technology, is breaking new ground with the introduction of a revolutionary cycling computer. The new Polar CS500 is designed for serious riders who are passionate about the sport and who are determined to improve.

This truly innovative cycling computer contains a wide range of features that help demanding cyclists stay in full control of their performance. With a unique rocker switch operation, an oversized display and a new bike mount, the CS500 allows effortless operation. The stunning appearance and aerodynamic diamond shape of the CS500 also help to ensure it stands out on the road.

The oversized display guarantees clear visibility of training information in all conditions, therefore improving the rider’s safety. It allows more data on the screen and includes a flat lens that minimizes disturbing reflections in direct sunlight.

Even at high speeds, the CS500 is simple to control via the two-way rocker switch. The rider can operate their cycling computer by gently touching the left or right side of the handlebar unit and it is far easier and safer to navigate through training data. Alongside this, the advanced double pivot gives an extremely light button push.

With the CS500, cyclists get more out of their training and can improve their performance by combining body information with versatile cycling data. After the ride, they can get even more cycling-specific information via the online training diary at polarpersonaltrainer.com. This advanced web service has been developed to answer the demands of keen cyclists, allowing them to transfer their training files via fast wireless data communication using the new DataLink (optional). The new training load feature at polarpersonaltrainer.com tells you how hard your training session was and how much time is needed for a complete recovery. This feature takes out the guesswork whether you have recovered enough for your next session, helping you find the perfect balance between rest and training.

The CS500, made of extra reinforced composite, attaches to the new Dual Lock Bike Mount, the most durable and advanced on the market. Easy to install, it can be mounted on the stem or handlebar. The bike mount’s engineered metal parts guarantee sturdy attachment for the cycling computer, making it ideal for both road and mountain biking.

For the dedicated cyclist, the Bike 1/2/3 feature allows you to customize wheel size settings for three different bikes, meaning the same computer can be used without changing settings. What else? Well, the Polar CS500 displays and records the temperature and will even give you a timely reminder to drink. To help monitor progress throughout a training schedule, it also automatically stores training data from your last 14 sessions and keeps a track of the number of sessions, total hours on the saddle, overall distance and the number of calories burned.

The perfect solution for cyclists, the CS500 includes the reliable 2.4 GHz W.I.N.D. technology that guarantees disturbance-free data communication and gives a longer range, which offers multiple assembly possibilities. In addition, the individually coded heart rate transmission prevents cross-talk between cycling computers, so riders can be sure CS500 picks up their heart rate and not someone else’s.

“Ambitious cyclists have high standards for their cycling gear. We have answered their demanding needs with the new CS500,” says Liz Shenton, Performance & Education Manager for Polar Electro. “The revolutionary features give the rider the information, reliability and insight for a safe, informative and effective ride whether it’s in training or event conditions.”

On sale through authorized Polar retailers, the CS500 will be available with CS speed sensor W.I.N.D. and Dual Lock Bike Mount or in a more extensive set with CS cadence sensor W.I.N.D. as well. Both sets include the comfortable WearLink+ transmitter W.I.N.D., and a user manual. Polar DataLink, CS cadence sensor W.I.N.D. and Power Output Sensor can be purchased separately as accessories.

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Interval training on a turbo isn’t easy. Sure, it’s not as long as going out on a ride, but the intensity of the workouts can be just as hard when packed into a non-stop session with no ‘coasting’ or stoplights.

The hard part, though, unless you have a coach, is to come up with plans for yourself. Sure, there are books, but they can be a drag to read and then figure out or even program into a personal plan or computer for you to follow.

This is where a website called turbotraining.co.uk comes in.

The site allows you to not only search for plans based upon what equipment you have, but it will also ‘play’ the plan out for you. Very interesting and ‘economical’ way to get coaching.

Of course, check with your physician before starting any kind of regime.. the last thing you want to do is keel over in a turbo, then your neighbors need to call the cops and you’ll be all over the TV in an awkward situation…

Thanks to my friend Gareth for the tip on the site.

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I find that I have to wear something underneath my helmet when I ride for several reasons:

1) To reduce the amount of sweat that accumulates in the front of the helmet

2) To reduce the skin irritation of the bacteria-laden padding on the helmet (even if you wash regularly)

3) To extend the life of my helmet

To that extent, I’ve been using Zensah’s beanie, which I’ve found to be excellent during the winter, spring, and fall.. but for the summer, with the sun and all, at times it can run a bit hot.

All-cotton caps can be ok, but they can also run a bit hot and don’t do so well with the sweat once they’re water-logged.

I recently found this company called Walz that just makes cycling caps. They will make you custom caps that have your logo too, which I did.. with faston2wheels.com written on it naturally, but the nice thing is that you can have them made of a moisture wicking material which is perfect for the summer. I got mine in the mail today.. they do ship to the UK. It looks well made and the textile ‘pores’ are definitively large enough to look the summer part.

Check them out.

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When considering buying a bike, the MOST important thing to keep in mind is bike fit. Anyone that tells you that anything else is important over bike fit, like the wheels or groupset, has never been on a bike for more than three hours. I would take a mediocre bike that fits me well over a spectacular bike any day. Even if you have the choice between an ugly looking one and a cool looking one, take the one that fits you best otherwise after an hour or so it’ll hurt so much you’ll hate the cool one anyway.

As a caveat, this discussion is mostly applicable to those of you that want to cycle for sport. If you are just putzing around town for 20 minutes or so, sure.. you’ll get away with an ill-fitting bike, just like it wouldn’t hurt you to run with shoes that were too big for you for a short period of time. However, if you plan on cycling for anything over 45 min, you’ll start to notice a difference in neck pain, lower back pain, knee pain, wrist pain, butt pain, and possibly even foot pain, if things are ‘off’ from what they should be, and hence the bike fit comes into play.

A true bike fit isn’t simply a ‘stand over the top tube’ sizeup that many chain stores do… it actually involves understanding any leg length discrepancies, torso length, flexibility issues, etc.  A decent bike fit can give you a generally ‘good enough’ fit, which is cheaper, and that will give you the saddle height, fore and aft adjustment, and stem length for your handlebars. A very good bike fit process will give you all the same things as the basic (or static fit), whilst you are pedaling on a turbo trainer (dynamic fit) plus your cleat adjustment and any kind of modifications to your shoes, such as length length discrepancy adjustments. Of course, you will pay extra for that, as those kinds of bike fits can costs in the hundreds of dollars or pounds. The cheaper ones, can be had for much less though or even free if you buy a bike from the store that did the fit (ask for this).

In the end, the objective is to get you as close a bike to your ideal fit as possible (unless you go down the custom bike route). Many people do find that stock bikes are ‘good enough’ for their use after they’ve been modified to fit them by altering crank length, stem, stack, and saddle height… but not all stores are friendly about helping you with changing these things. That’s why it’s worth it to shop in the stores that are better about accommodating these kinds of modifications. Also, keep in mind that you may not fit that beautiful bike you always wanted… as it may require more flexibility than you actually have.. I know I can’t fit some of the really short head tube race bikes without having to heavily modify them to the point that they look silly.. but I’d rather take one that is ‘less’ cool, and feel comfortable than take a cool one, modify it to the point it no longer looks cool, and then ride perhaps will some discomfort any way.

Below is the list of stores that I know (at least in London) that do bike fits and will be good about helping you out with buying a bike with that fit. For the ones where I know the guys in the store and trust them, I’ve listed their names… tell them Carlos sent you:

Prologue Bikes – Near Richmond park – Ask for Bruce or Tom
Condor Cycles – Greys Inn Road near Holborn – Ask for Greg
Mosquito Bikes – Near Angel – Ask for Roger, to read my experience getting fitted by Roger, go here.
Sigma Sport – Hampton Wick – Ask for Lee or Jeremy

Here are some others (but that I’ve never been to or used, so can’t assess them, but heard they are ok):

Cyclefit – Near Holborn
De Ver Cycles – SW163QL London
Bike & Run – East Finchley
ProFeet – Fulham

If you want to learn more about bike fittings, go to the bikefitting.com website where they have lots of good materials explaining the ins and outs. Also Retul a bike fitting tech provider has some additional info as well as directions for fitting centers.

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Image by .mw via Flickr

Update: I already went on my trip, but wrote the following bit below before going on my trip, so read it assuming I hadn’t gone yet until where I say it ends…

I’m going on my second Pyractif cycling trip soon, and I want to take my ‘good’ bike with me but not have to fear the airlines either damaging it or losing it (and if they do, that I can at least recoup the value).

So, the best place to begin is with bike boxes to ensure that there is as little damage as possible, and secondly, with bike insurance ‘in case of…’.

Last year when I traveled to Pyractif in the Pyrenees, I went to a now-defunct store called SBR in Fulham (the company is still running it’s just that store seems to have shut down) to rent a bike box. It was just a shell, but it worked well enough in getting my bike down. I basically disassembled the bike and packed it in there with bubble wrap and other items. Seemed to work well enough, and aside from a few paint scratches, it did not create any problems for BA.

Whilst at Pyractif though, I saw a whole bunch of other types of bike transport types, and one in particular caught my attention, the Pika Packworks bike bag. It looked pretty solid, and was clearly designed for the job in-spite of not being a hard-shell box. However, being that they only had USA distribution, it would be impractical for me to have it shipped to the UK.. so I was left with the local options.

On the high end, I found the Scicon Aerotech Evolution Bike box and on the low end, the dhb Elsted in between there were many options including the Roof Box company. All the reviews I read of for the softer bags were not encouraging so I decided I wanted a hard case for travel if I couldn’t get the Pika. The next problem was whether I was going to actually spend the money to get a box that at most I’d use twice a year. Considering that these boxes are massive, take a good bit of space, and have low utilization my options were to either buy it and loan it / rent it or to rent it. However, being that SBR, the closest store that I knew rented them had closed I was left with only the buying option.

Then I discovered Bike Box Alan.. with similar looks to the Scicon, the Bike Box Alan is cheaper and supposedly sturdier as you can see from the video on their website.

In the process of calling Bike Box Alan (since they rent them) I was then lucky to find out that my local bike store Prologue Bikes rents the Bike Box Alans as well as the Scion boxes for a reasonable price!

Anyway, the next bit was to actually get the bike packaged. I took the bike to Prologue where Tom helped me take my bike apart and put it in the box. I was given a Scion box with some battle damage, but that was structurally sound, it looks like these boxes are tough… by the time Tom had finished wrapping it up, it was safe to fly.

/ Update: Ok from now on, it’s after the trip.

The bike made it to Spain in one piece. One thing about the Scion bike boxes is that they allow you to skewer the wheels onto the shell of the box, but if you tighten the skewer all the way in, you will have the skewers sticking out and rubbing on whatever comes in contact with the box. This created an issue for me because when I arrived, one of the skewers was slightly bent from the airline handling. My recommendation is to tighten the skewer just enough, but not so that the shaft of the skewer pokes out of the screw bit.

On the return, the airport was a pain about getting the bike box into security so I had to open it up. Be prepared to do that.

Overall, I was happy with both the Scion box and with Prologue’s assistance on the matter. I recommend them and using a hard shell case. Those people that flew with the softer variety to our camp had some funny results, and one had damage. The majority of boxes were either the Scion one that I had or the Bike Box Alan, with the difference being soft bags.

In part 2 of this post, I’ll discuss insurance products.

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This is just awesome… this girl totally gets her bike to drift into place between her sibling’s bikes. Hilarious!

And of course, the outtakes:

via Geekologie

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