I’ve inserted a lot of zippers in my time but for the last 6 years they have mostly been the closed seam, invisible centered or exposed zipper applications.  Daniela’s Banyan pant design called for just a slight overlapped zipper, which is the more modern look.  I love photos & illustrations because I’m a “visual” type of gal and lucky for me when we were writing instructions for this pattern Daniela sent over photos (yay) to help make sure we were clearly guiding our sewists. Now that the patterns have been released I thought what better way to make sure everyone has enough visual aids then to share these great photos with you!  So, here you go:

Once you have interfaced the fly flap, sewn the center seam beginning 1/2″ below the fly flap and baste stitched from the bottom of the flap to the waist hem. Press the fly flap open and change the presser foot to the zipper foot on the machine.

STEP 1

If you have sewn most of the Figgy’s patterns by now then you know that my most favorite notion is Wondertape.  You really can’t beat it (if you think you can then please leave us a comment we love new knowledge) especially when installing a zipper.  I place the Wondertape along the right side of the zipper tape close to the edge (not the teeth).  This double sided tape will hold the zipper in place while you sew and you don’t have to worry with pins.  With the zipper unzipped, align the right side of the zipper top edge with the waist hem and the zipper teeth with the basted seam line.  Stitch the tape in place.  Be sure that only the fly flap is resting on the sewing plate and not the pants and fly.  Remember to backstitch!

STEP 2

Close the zipper.  Turn the pants upside down, align the opposite zipper tape to the opposite fly flap.  Again, make sure only the fly flap is resting on the sewing plate and not the pants. Stitch the zipper in place.

STEP 3

Change back to the regular machine presser foot and turn the pants so the right side is facing up.  With most pants you can simply feel the curve of the fly flap from the right side with your finger.  Using a chalk or fabric pen mark this curve from the waist to the center seam.  Change the stitch length to 2.5 – 3.0 for a nice looking topstitch.    If your machine has a nice topstitch try using a contrasting thread.  After top stitching along the marking remove the baste stitches and unzip the zipper.

STEP 4

A fly extension will keep the zipper from rubbing your little one’s skin and it gives a nice professional touch.  With the right sides facing, fold the extension in half lengthwise and press flat.  Stitch a crescent shape along the bottom raw edge.  Trim the seam and turn right side out.  Using a point turner  smooth the seam and press flat once again.  Finish the long raw edges by using a serger, zig zag stitch or pinking shears.

STEP 5

Align the finished edge of the extension with the fly flap edge behind the zipper.  Edgestitch through all of the layers from the right side of the pants.

All done! Not so bad was it?

Here is a look at the finished zipper after the waistband is sewn in place.  Nice!

 Thank you Daniela for providing these photos and we all hope you’re having an amazing time visiting family in Germany (lucky girl)!

I have the honor to work with Shelly and Daniela at Figgy’s Patterns and their
wonderful garment pattern designs for children and tweens – in this
case one of their latest: the Banyan shirt, tunic,
pants and shorts. Today I have for you a tutorial for custom
sewing pants for your child. But let me give you a spiel first.

One of the best things about learning to sew clothing is you can make
exactly what someone wants, using colors, fabrics, and
embellishments just for them. You can construct the garment in a way
that fits them perfectly and feels better to wear than anything
purchased ready-to-wear (RTW). And finally – these clothes last longer
than even rather expensive retail products. Yes, it takes time to
build these skills, but today I CAN HAZ THEM, and I love to share
them.

Specifically what I’m going to show you today concerns sewing
trousers for the tall and/or slim child.

My children have typically been slim for their age and size. When it
comes to pants, in RTW this means buying slim-fit trousers, elastic
waist pants, or using belts – all of which have drawbacks and
limitations. But in sewing we have the opportunity to create custom
fit, and here’s how I did it.

First, I measured my client – in this case, my eight year old son.
Here are his measurements in inches, with the corresponding Banyan
pattern size in parenthesis:

Height: 51 1/2″ (size 8/9)
Chest: 24 1/2″ (size 6/7)
Waist: 22″ (size 4/5)
Hip: 23″ (size 4/5)

In making pants, the next thing to consider is where your child tends
to like to wear his or her clothing. In Nels’ case, he wears in
between his hip and his waist. Both these body measurements are in the
4/5 size. And since his height corresponds to size 8/9, I’ll simply
adjust the fit to correspond to a size 4/5 body girth and a size 8/9
length.

If you trust the pattern’s draft, you can adjust the pant fit
according to the pattern’s waist size. Let me describe another method
to determine which size to grade to, or a way to double-check waist
sizing at a selected size.

On a flat or pleated – that is, non-elastic – pair of pants, the
length around the front waist, side seam to side seam, should
correspond to front body’s wearing waist, ideally bisecting the
side-body. Said another way, the front body section of the pants’
waistband should reach halfway around the body at the wearing waist.

Flat-front pants with pockets, or pleated pants, take a moment to
figure out, but it’s pretty simple really (see below). This
pattern has a 1/2″ seam allowance. So measuring 1/2″ in from the top
raw edge, I drew lines (shown in red) from the center front
(dashed line at left), skipping over the pleats (which
will reduce to zero once sewn), and extending to within 1/2″ or
one seam allowance, of the side seam.

But – we’re not finished! Remember, the pockets will extend the front
waist of the pants. In the case of this pattern, figuring the added
length is very easy: simply fold the pocket piece in half (as the
pocket will be when finished) and measure the distance from the
slanted raw edge to the side raw edge – AT the size selected (shown
here, 4/5). Add these red-line measurements up.

For the 4/5 size, the finished front pant measurement was 12″
(and, spoiler alert!, when I finished the pants, they were 12″
exactly). Obviously your cutting, tracing, measuring, and
stitching abilities will all affect the outcome of this method, and if
it seems too complex put it aside, or write me an email. However,
thinking this way about clothing is a good technique to learn.

On to tracing and cutting. When making a smaller girth to height, the
pant leg is a fairly simple adjustment: since I wanted the length of
the 8/9 size, plus 1/2″, I simply traced from the crotch point of the
4/5 size in a smooth curve onto the thigh of the 8/9 cutting line
(you can see my resultant cutting line below, in red).

For the other side of the pant front leg, the difference between a 4/5
and an 8/9 is so minimal – about 1/8″ as marked, I didn’t do any
grading at all but just cut along the 8/9.

Layout: This pant pattern only includes one back pocket. You can see
my pocket piece near the center of the photo, waiting to be cut after
I cut the rest and unfold it (this is a great opportunity to cut a
bias pocket if you have a cute pattern on your fabric, stripes,
corduroy, et cetera). I added 1/2″ to the length of the pant legs
for a bit of growth room. To do this, I simply extended the bottom hem
of the front and back pant leg – using the large ruler you see laying
on my pant front pattern piece.

One more comment about cutting. The waistband for the Banyan pants and
shorts is a bit of genius. It is a three-part waistband, with a long
back waistband fully-elasticized and corresponding to the side-seams
of the pants, and a left front and left right flat (i.e.
non-elasticized) waistband. In a case like this I typically cut
the front waistbands a bit longer, to make sure I don’t run out of
room later. Waistbands can be kind of a pain and I’d rather add a
little extra now, than rip out stitches and/or add darts and/or cut
new pieces later.

After cutting according to your adjustments, the rest of
construction follows the pattern instructions. I’ll continue here
to write a bit about constructing the pants. You can skip to the
bottom of the post if you’d like to see the fit difference my
adjustments made.

To prepare the pants for sewing, I marked darts, pleats, and pocket
placement, interfaced appropriate sections, and pre-serged a few
seams.

For marking, I prefer either water-soluble marker or chalk or thread.
I used pencil in this case as I knew it would wash out.

I typically insert a needle through the pattern to get perfect
placement of marks. Here you see the inner pocket placement upper
edge. After pushing the needle through the paper, I carefully lift the
pattern and mark, on the right side, the pocket placement.

Pocket placement markings on the right side of the garment. The little
bump at waist-edge is the dart head.

For the darts, I used the same needle method to mark the termination
of the darts on the wrong side of the pants. I make these
markings simultaneously on both left and right pattern pieces.

Given there is a 1/2″ seam allowance, I give myself license to mark
the dart heads by notching. Below in the center of the picture you can
just make out my 1/8″ notches, which will be matched up and stitched,
right-sides together.

Now, the front pleats. Here you can see I notched and drew the pleat
headings with red, and used my trusty pencil for the pleat termination
points:

After marking and/or notching, I interfaced and pre-finished a few
seam allowances. I used a serger for finishing on this project. For
this pattern, I recommend finishing the edges of the cuff pieces, the
edges of the fly extension/guard (center of photo, rectangular
piece), and all four crotch seams, front and back pantleg. For
interfacing, follow directions in the pattern – interfacing one of
each waistband, the fly extension/guard, and the fly extension on the
front flaps of the pants (at left). Interfacing the fly
extension on the pants front will make a lot nicer fly – promise.

We will be serging/finishing more seams as we sew.

Now we get to stitch a little! Here is a finished dart:

After sewing I steam-press, then carefully knot the thread and use a
tiny dab of anti-fray glue.

Now it’s time to make the pocket!

In this picture you see the pressed front pleats (left), and
the pressed pocket with finished embroidery. The embroidery is my
son’s drawing of Uranus, traced onto one of my favorite little
helpers, Sulky’s Fabri Sticky-Solvy. I keep my sticky
stabilizer scraps (like the red type you see here) so I can
use it for all kinds of stabilizing jobs. It washes away easily and
makes things a lot easier than tracing, basting stabilizers, etc!

Creating the fly:

I use an extra long zipper whenever possible. That way I can sew
without coming anywhere near the zipper pull. Just be careful not to
cut the top of the zipper off until you’re about to secure that top
raw edge. If you aren’t going to need to zip up the zipper during the
rest of construction, you can stop at this stage and apply safety pins
along the zipper tape so you don’t accidentally pull the zipper pull
right off the cut zipper tape (ask me how I’ve learned this, the
hard way!).

Here you see the finished inside of the pants, including the bar tack
in white. The pattern calls the piece in foreground a fly extension -
I’ve also heard it called a fly guard (my son calls it “wiener
protection”, which I think is awesome).

Outseams: I like to stitch, serge, then topstitch. This is easy to do
as the inseams aren’t sewn and we can work in the flat with ease.
Outseam with pocket:

After serging and topstitching, I serged the pants hem. Again, easy to
do as we’ve not yet sewn the inseam:

Now to stitch, then serge, the inseam! Here you see the crotch curves,
already pre-serged. We’ll have a very tidy finish when we’re done.

Finally – it’s time for the waistband. This is a bit picture-heavy,
but I’m trying to demonstrate how to do a quick, yet good-looking and
sturdy, waistband.

I sewed the outer waistband on first (you can see the
water-soluble blue pen for my fly stitching, here).

Next, I stitched the inner waistband, at 1/16″ larger seam allowance
so no stitches would show on the outer edge of the garment. Don’t
worry if you don’t get this perfect. The only person who’s going to
inspect your waistband is you. Here you also see the gap in the inner
waistband for inserting the 3/4″ elastic.

Waistbands both attached.

Trimming. Remember when I said I made my front waistbands a little
longer than the pattern? Here’s where I correct if needed.

Grading seams eliminates bulk. It makes a big difference for wear and
comfort, and it can also make a huge difference if you have more
construction steps. Here, we’re just about done with the pants, so
don’t skimp! The general rule is, leave the longest seam allowances
where they will be facing the public side of the garment. So here in
the foreground you see the inner waistband, behind that the pant
front, and behind that the outer waistband.

Topstitching the waistband. I start here on the underlap where you
won’t be seeing the overlapping stitches.

Have I mentioned how much I love linen? It is so crisp it’s easy just
to finger fold and sew. Remember though to fold enough of a seam
allowance and stitch so that the waistband won’t ravel later. And go
careful over those zipper teeth. My 1950 Singer is a champ, but my
newer, pricey Juki will grind on a metal zipper tooth, break the
needle, and scare the camp out of me.

Still topstitching. Again, my desire isn’t topstitching perfection so
much as sturdiness and no waistband ripples. That said…

Even my quick and dirty results look pretty nice. Go check your RTW
pants and compare! The waistband is also delightfully light, thanks to
that grading work.

A few words on tidy thread tails. I like to make invisible knots so
there are no ugly thread snarls or tails. Here after inserting and
stitching the elastic, I pull both thread tails firmly to the inside
of the garment. Then I thread a needle and stab it right through where
the thread tails end, emerging a little further down through the
inside of the waistband…

Then I pull the threads all the way through (you can see a little
loop just before I snug them up)…

After snugging and snipping, the thread tails are secure and invisible!

Okay, now for a few comments on the finished garment and fit. Here you
see my adjusted version:

And here’s the 8/9, made without adjustment:

While the Banyan trouser, by virtue of an elasticized back waistband
and a fair amount of dart and pleat action to boot, is designed to
have a full seat and thigh, you can clearly see superior results after
adjusting for proper size. The too-large waist of the 8/9 pants meant
using a shorter elastic in the backwaist, leading to an overly-full
thigh and very bunchy bum.

And finally: here’s how the pocket turned out:

This rendering of Uranus is a simple drawing of my son’s, taken from a
larger solar system sketch he drew. My son selected Uranus for his pocket
as it’s one of his favorite planets, with its “sideways” axis of
rotation and complicated ring system. This sketch may be a little less
than cosmically-complex, but the “ring system” does glow
in the dark.

Thanks for joining me in my tutorial, and if you have any questions,
please do email or comment below! kelly@hogaboom.org

Thank you Kelly!!!  I hope you come back again soon because YOU rock our socks

Via Flickr:  Tribecca, Elsie, dkbnyny, Living with Punks, June Craft, Elsie, June Craft, Hazelnut Girl

 I was able to participate a little this week and created a little Zephyr sun dress. For who else but Ofeliam of course.  She was quite camera shy yesterday but she really loved it.  My mom made her some purple linen bloomers (she calls them her spanx) to match.  Super Cute!  Fabric is a cotton lawn: London Calling by Vanessa Sorbet distributed by Robert Kaufman.

It was the perfect weight for a Spring sun dress.

Although KWCW is over for now we hope you will keep sewing a little bit everyday to create gorgeous garments for your little ones, and very soon with the new patterns too!  Happy sewing!

 Sizes: 18mo – 8/9yr

Banyan

  A Royal Navy term for a short period of rest and relaxation.

You have asked for boys and knit patterns and we delivered! This pattern
package is chock full of handsome and stylish staples that will easily take
you through any season and will work equally well for boys and girls!
What more could you ask for?

The pants are a modern design with a pleated flat front and our signature adjustable
back. You choose between a long leg length or a severely cute pair of
shorts. The pant is tapered through the legs and ends with a fold up that
just takes this style up a couple of notches! Pair it with this easy to make
tee or choose between a girls slim fit handkerchief hem or tunic length tee.
We promise to help elevate your sewing ability while we guide you step
by step through a professional fly zip installation and plenty of sewing
tips for wovens and knits!

Scirocco

The constellation of winds blowing hot air from Sahara into Europe.

As a child, growing up in Germany, Scirocco meant hot summer days and
nights. The scent of sunscreen, swimming pools, ice cream and barbecues.
It meant swimming in cool waters and hanging out with friends
along the waters edge. An incredible sense of self, freedom and a terribly
freckled nose.
Celebrate your summer by sewing your girl(s) this beautiful airy summer
dress – with a fun and funky twist which surely will make your little one
feel extra special. We are sure she will always remember the summer
when she got this favorite dress! Opt for light weight fabrics and try it
in sophisticated solids with pretty lace accents along the front or play it
up with beautiful prints. The results will make you wish for hot summer
days!

Zephyr

Mild winds blowing from the Pacific.

A pattern combo that surely fits the famous California lifestyle. Just think about your family strolling down the beach promenade in Venice Beach, your little girl skipping ahead, wearing this adorable romper or breezy sundress. Picking up a sea shell or twenty along the way. The sundress is a quick and simple sew, perfect for a beginning seamstress.

The romper however is a little more advanced as it is a little more time consuming especially using the recommended knit body/woven yoke combo. Yet with many trips and tricks sprinkled throughout the instructions, we are sure to help elevate your sewing experience.

 (Please drag your mouse to the number 360p to enlarge to 720p HP, thank you)

I hope you enjoyed the little peak at our Spring & Summer line and please come back tomorrow as we begin our PRE-SALE event.  Our pre-sale event includes 10% off any purchased pattern.  We are scheduled to ship all patterns by May 10, 2012!!

Daniela & Shelly

Congratulations!!!

Stephanie wrote:

I’m working on some baby shoes right now – a pair for my son and some for a friend’s twins.

Congratulations:  Kimberly!!!  I have one little problem….I don’t have an email to contact you :0

Please email me when you see this post and we’ll send you a gorgeous new pattern!

Kimberly wrote:

What a fun embellishment for this pattern. I have a baby quilt that I am in the middle of. I hope to finish it up soon, the baby’s already 4 months old! Thanks for the giveaway.

From Jen:

The Ofelia  pattern is my all time favorite little girl dress pattern. Its FOUR pieces, easy to sew, only takes a yard of fabric, is stylish and well, Amelia my daughter loves it. Which means she already has four hanging in her closest. But they are getting small and are ready to pass down. Since I’ve already made them with the cute ribbon down the front, I thought I’d try something new!

Digging into my scrap bins, I found the answer.  Below I’ll show you how to create this super cute patchwork binding as well as how to attach it three different ways. This is also a great way to add length to a dress if you have a tall lanky girl like I do.

By no means am I the expert in binding the hem of a dress. I’ve learned by trial and error. The point of this tutorial and showing you three different ways is to get you motivated! To get you to sew! To look at these, and think “Hey that’s not so hard-I can do that!” Because really, that’s what it takes, a little motivation, a little confidence and a desire to try.

So do it.

Try something new today.

Make a cute dress for your little one and then make it your own with special little touches!

Supplies

• An almost complete Ofelia Dress (You can win a PDF download of this!)
• Scraps of fabric measuring 1-4 inches by 5 inches
• Regular sewing materials (machine, thread, cutting mat, rotary cuter, ruler, etc)

The first method is what I most commonly see in today’s patterns. It’s great to use if you want the inside seam to be completely hidden and if you don’t have a serger.

Step One: Making the binding

• Measure the bottom of your dress to determine how long your binding should be and add ½ inch.
• With your scraps sew them together to make one long strip that equals the width of the dress (mine was around 40 inches)

Step Two: Press and Square Up

• Press your seams, which ever way suits you. (I press mine to the side-I like the texture it gives)
• Square up the binding using a ruler and a rotary cutter. I found that five inches wide on all of these worked best. I made the 6/7 size dress-adjust the binding according to the dress size and preference.

Step Three: Attach

• Press one side up a ¼ inch
• Pin the binding to the bottom of the dress raw edges together and right sides to right sides.
• Join the ends of the binding by sewing a ¼ inch seam and creating a circle. Press.
• Attach to the hem using a ¼ inch seam

Step Four: Finishing

• Press your seam down towards the binding
• Fold the biding in half so the pre pressed ¼ inch seam just covers your stitch line (photo 2)
• Pin in place and top stitch using a 1/8^th inch seam allowance

This next method is my favorite and the one I call the “down and dirty”. It’s quick, easy and still looks neat and professional. I also totally thought I made it up-yeah I know, total dork…

Follow steps 1 and 2 above to make your binding.

Step One: Attaching the binding

• Create a circle by sewing your end seams together with a ¼ inch seam (do this by measuring your dress hem width and adding ½ inch)
• Fold the binding in half with wrong sides together. Press.
• Pin to the hem and stitch a ¼ seam
• Serge

Step Two: Finishing

• Press the seam towards the bottom/binding
• Top stitch using an 1/8^th inch seam

(Note: Some people press up and stitch above binding-do what you like best just make sure to catch the serged seam allowance in your stitch)

The last method is probably the most traditional. It’s a double fold and adds weight and some thickness to the hem. It would be good on a heavy weight fabric such as wool. It also creates a narrower hem.

Follow steps 1 and 2 in the first set of directions to create your binding.

Step One: Create the double fold and attach

• Fold the binding in half wrong sides together. Press
• Open the binding and fold one side all of the way to the center line. Press.
• Fold the other side towards the center but leave a ¼ inch gap.
• Fold in half and press. One side will be slightly wider than the other

Step Two: Attaching

• Open the binding. Pin the narrower side to the hem of the dress with right sides together matching the raw edges
• When you get to the ends, turn one end up a ¼ inch (photo 1 below)
• Place the other end on top to over lap (photo 2 below)
• Stitch in the fold line (photo 3 below)

Note: You can also create a circle by sewing the end seams together as shown in method 1 and 2

Step Three: Press and Pin

• Press the seam towards the bottom
• Fold up at center seam; this should naturally fall above the stitch line
• Press and pin in place

Step Four: Finishing

• Top stitch 1/8^th inch on top of the binding on the right side of the dress

TIP: Increasing the stitch length to create a longer stitch will give the garment a more professional look

Bonus Head Band!

Remember the tie tutorial from the other day? Well, all you have to do is slip it on a headband and your little girl has a super cute bow headband. Depending on how thick the headband is, you might need to make the center tighter by sewing a ½ inch seam allowance instead of a ¼ inch.

You could also attach it to various clips! I would add a touch of hot glue to the top of the clip to secure it. Amelia only wanted them on the headband, so I just fed the clip through to demonstrate; which actually worked just fine in my hair!

Hopefully this tutorial has inspired you to sew something pretty for your little one! To get you started, Shelly & Daniela will be giving away a free PDF pattern of the Ofelia dress to one lucky winner!!!  Perfect timing for this Holiday season.

Just leave a comment on this post to enter. It would be great to hear what you are working on now or what you’d like to work on soon! For an extra entry follow us on Facebook or Pintrest!  Please also make sure your email is in the comment or is linked to your comment! A winner will be chosen by random on Monday!

From Jen Carlton Bailly of www.bettycrockerass.com

One thing I love to see is a little boy in a bow tie with a rumpled shirt and jeans. It’s probably the love of all things from The Preppy Hand Book in me. But it’s also teaching our boys that dressing up and looking nice is cool and awesome!

Ready to create this simple tie?  It’s a little bit over-sized and oh so cute!

Supplies

• Scraps of fabric in varying widths at least 12 inches long
• 1 piece of 4 by 4 inch solid fabric for the center of the tie
• 1 piece of 4½ inch by your child’s neck measurements (shirt on) plus 1 ½ inches in solid for the neck strap
• 1 piece of 1 inch Velcro
• 1 piece of fusible interfacing cut to 6 by 7 inches (I used Pellon 906F)
• 1 piece of card stock cut to 6 by 7 inches
• Point turner or knitting needle to poke out corners
• Liquid Stitch

Step One: Making a String Block (as it’s know in quilting)

• After cutting your card stock and fabric strips, lay them out over the paper at a diagonal to determine your order. Most of my strips did not measure over 2 inches wide
• Set your machine on a really tight stitch width. I usually sew at 2 for this I set mine at 1. This helps to perforate the paper and make it easy to tear off

Step Two: Sewing the fabric to the paper

• Lay the middle strip down, then your next strip on top of it right sides together
• Sew a ¼ inch seam
• Fold over your strip and press flat with a dry iron
• Continue this process on each side until you have covered the paper

Step Three: Squaring up your block

• Turning your block upside down-paper facing up, use your ruler and rotary cutter to square it up trimming the fabric

Step Four: Taking of the paper

• Since you used a nice small stitch, taking the paper off will be like tearing a perforated coupon out!
• Stick your finger under the paper, and gently tug. The paper should come lose, bend it back and gently tear.
• Continue until all the paper is off.

(FYI: If you are a garment sewer, you actually just became a quilter too! You did your first quilt string block!)

Step Five: Interfacing and Sewing

• Following the manufactures guidelines for your fusible interfacing, attach it to the back of your block
• Fold the block in half on the 7 inch side right sides together
• Your block should measure 3 ½ by 6 inches
• Make a 1 ½ inch mark in the middle at the raw edges (this will be were you will turn your tie inside out.
• Stitch all the raw edges with exception to where you marked
• Make sure your stitch length is back to where you normally have it
• Clip the four corners on the diagonal being careful not to cut into the stitch line

Step Six: Turn out and Top Stitch

• Turn your block inside out, take care to poke out the corners with a point turner (as pictured) or a knitting needle
• Press flat (the flatter you get it the nicer it will look)
• Top stitch using a 1/8^th inch seam allowance

TIP! Increase your stitch length a bit when top stitching. You’ll get a nicer looking stitch.

Step Seven: Forming the Bow Tie

• Pick the side of the tie that you like best
• Find the middle and pinch in place
• Stitch down the middle to hold it in place (I went back and forth a few times to ensure it was secure)

Step Eight: Making the Center and Neck Strap

• Using the 4 by 4 inch piece of fabric, fold it in half and press
• Open it up; fold the sides in to meet the center and press
• Fold at the center and press
• Top stitch
• Fold in half and match raw edges
• Stitch a ¼ inch to form a circle
• Turn so the raw edges are facing in
• Complete the same process for the neck strap
  • Measure the neck WITH the shirt on (add 1 ½ inches to this)
  • Cut out
  • Fold each end up by ¼ inch
  • Follow above directions with exception to the last three points
  • Top stitch along all edges

Step Nine: Finishing the Bow Tie

• Slip the ring onto the tie by compressing it

Step Ten: Finishing the Strap

Note: I realize that not everyone is going to like to glue on their Velcro. This just happens to be my favorite product right now. It dries clear, is super strong and I don’t have to have stitch marks! Do what works best for you.

• Taking your strap position the Velcro at the ends
• Add a dap of Liquid Stitch and apply the Velcro to the fabric.
• Take note of the 3^rd photo below-one piece will go on the top side, the other on the bottom side
• Let dry for recommended time

Step Eleven: Completing the tie

• Fold your strap in half
• Feed through the back of the tie

Step Twelve:

• Try it on
• Admire your work and enjoy creating a hand made wardrobe

 (Zeke calls it his “party boy tie”)

Here is the same tie using one fabric. Do what you love or better yet, what your little guy would love best. Involving him in the process will probably help encourage him to keep it on longer!

Thank you so much Jen for gifting us with another terrific tutorial!  Thank you Z for being SO DARN CUTE!  Look at those eyes.  Stay tuned because Jen has one more wonderful tutorial coming our way for the upcoming holiday.

Enjoy preparing for your future event and Happy Sewing!

Congratulations:

Megan wrote:

I would LOVE to win this awesome book! Your project looks so awesome. I am new to sewing and this would seal my obsession with it! Thanks Figgy’s!

When I think of Liberty of London fabric I think luxury.  Whenever I purchase Liberty fabric I have the hardest time deciding what project I want to use the fabric for because it needs to be worthy (like the Ayashe blouse).

When Chronicle books sent Daniela & I the “The Liberty Book of Home Sewing” book I had to sit down immediately and read every page from front to back.  This is the very first sewing book from the internationally popular and stylish textile brand.  A grin stayed on my face all day long.  I will say that this is not a “teach you how to sew book” so there isn’t much hand holding.

The book offers 25 projects that allow the reader to incorporate a touch of Liberty elegance into their home.  There are simple projects like a tote bag or apron and a bit more intermediate projects like full-sized quilts, throws and cushions. Yum.  In the beginning of the book Anna Baruma offers a bit of Liberty history.  I love “behind the scenes” and hearing how companies begin so this was terrific for me.  I really appreciated that each project listed the names of the fabrics used in case you wanted to create the exact same project as it is in the book.

(project: book covers)

The very first project I wanted to sew was the “Kimono”.  The Kimono offers a touch of old-fashioned glamour to your morning routine but, I only had 1 yard of Liberty in my sad stash (sniff sniff).

Instead I decided to make something for my Mom.  My parents are taking a much needed and deserved trip to Hawaii and  I found the perfect little gift to send with her, the “Toiletry Bag”.It went together perfectly and was a quick sew (which is nice when you have littles running around).  When working with projects in this book remember to read through the instructions before beginning your project. You should really do this with all patterns because you never know what little tricks may pop up.  In this project you create paper pattern pieces with measurements but you have to add 3/8″ around the paper pattern onto the fabric….I almost didn’t catch that and started cutting :0.  It all ended well.

For Mom.

The only tweak I made was to the zipper pull.  I decided to braid strips of the fabric and thread it through the zipper head.

 It  deemed to be a worthy project and it’s certainly going to a worthy lady.  She deserves this and the robe!

Now for the giveaway!  We are happy to announce that Daniela and I have an extra copy of this lovely book for one of you!  Please leave a comment letting us know you’d love to win!  For an extra chance to win visit our facebook page and “like” us.  I will announce the winner on Wednesday the 7th of March!

I promised a few people a little blog regarding sewing with knits; here goes. My daughter requested a shirt in “earthy” tones. I had just enough in my stash to make her one. The natural-colorway was from a piece of organic bamboo yardage given to me by a friend; the brown was from a 100% organic cotton t-shirt I thrift-ed (I used most of the shirt to make a headband for my mother). In both cases once I cut out the shirt pattern pieces I ended up with only a small portion scraps to compost. I love it that I use fabric so economically.

Kelly used the Tee for Two pattern available here: http://www.craftsy.com/pattern/sewing/Clothing/Tee-for-Two-Small-sizes/3910

Knits are tricky. So many sewists claim to “whip up a t-shirt on the serger” – but the truth is, for most of us it takes time to get proficient at knits, especially those with a high degree of stretch. Many home sewists don’t even own a serger (or they own one and don’t know how to use it). I hasten to add, a serger is not needed to make great knitwear. The following tutorial regards making a t-shirt on a sewing machine. It needs only a zig zag function to achieve good results (a width of 0.5 – 1.0 and a length of 3.0 was used for this shirt).

One of the best tricks I know to make t-shirt sewing go easier is to stabilize the seam allowances. This means “painting” a solution on the seam allowances and allowing them to dry. This solution ensures that the knit will not roll nor be sucked into the feed dogs of the machine. It’s not a necessary step to sewing with t-shirt knits, but one that makes things a lot easier. In addition to creating an easier sewing experience, I have found the stitch formed on stabilized knits “floats” on the fabric (instead of being pulled into it). Not all knits need this treatment (a sturdy or non-stretch knit may not), but for my slim-fit t-shirt with the very stretchy, soft bamboo it made the whole process easier.

To stabilize the seams you can either purchase a water soluble spray-on stabilizer or a stabilizer by the yard. If you choose the latter, you simply dissolve a small amount in water to create a solution then “paint” the edges of your pattern pieces (shown below in a moment). In this case, I am sewing with a 1/4″ seam allowance so I stabilized about 3/8″ on each seam.

Which seams do you have to stabilize? Those that will be travelling across the feed dogs of the machines. For this pattern, this means all edges except the sleeve and shirt hems (which remain unfinished). I stabilized the short ends of the neckband as well, given as a last step in this pattern the neckband edges have to be top stitched closed in a little rectangle and I figured, “Why not?”. The neckband in general does not need to be stabilized as it is rarely against the machine (when you attach the band it will be the shirt bodice that travels across the machine surface) and it needs to stretch quite a bit to perform its function (which is to “snap back” after sewing and bring the shirt edge in to hug the neck).

Here’s a little photo-explanation of stabilizing (click each photo for more information):

After you’ve stabilized your seam allowances, you must let the pattern pieces dry. Give it overnight or, if you’re in a hurry, carefully put the pieces in front of a heat source (don’t burn your house down!). When the seams are dry, they will have a stiff edge to them. They may even be a bit waffle-y. Don’t worry about that, as on the machine they will sew up beautifully. Here is an example of the texture change resultant from the stabilizing process. It’s a bit difficult to see but it’s obvious to the touch (the green thread is the tailor’s tacks I use for pattern markings):

Now we’re all ready to sew!

In the Tee for Two pattern, the first seams sewn are those of the sleeves to the front and back bodice. I chose to do Option B. of the pattern – that is, a raw-edge, top stitched seam. This means first sewing the sleeve seams wrong sides together. The sleeve seams are curved – one generally a “convex” curve (the shirt bodice) and one generally a “concave” curve (the sleeve piece). The way you pin and sew these seams will make a difference in the ease of sewing. When pinning curves that have opposite lines (concave vs. convex), pin such that you’ll be sewing with the convex curve against the machine. To look at it another way, the curves will often look like they won’t match (don’t worry, if you cut accurately they will). Whichever seam looks like it has more fabric to be taken up during stitching, pin and place this piece against the machine. The natural action of the feed dogs will help subtly gather it (in the below photo, the brown is the sleeve, the natural-colorway the bodice. You can see the concave and convex curves):

When sewing – any time when sewing, but especially with a picky knit – hold the thread tails before you sew. This actually take a bit of practice. But if you don’t, your machine will often pull the thread tails into the machine’s throat plate. You’ll end up with a snarled-up bunch of thread and sometimes an ugly, bunchy seam. Observe the results when the thread tails were properly restrained:

After you sew each seam, you should steam press for best results. In general, it is always a good idea to “set the seam”, then press. “Setting the seam” is a technique I learned in a quilting class. It means pressing the seam just as sewn, before you turn it up and top stitch or whatever is next. Fabric is not two-dimensional but 3D – “setting the seam” helps integrate the seam into the structure of the garment (in this photo you can also see the nature of the zig zag that works well with stretchy knit sewing):

After you set the seam, go ahead and finger press it open and press with the iron again, this time in the formation you’ll want it in before proceeding. In this case, the seam allowances are pressed toward the bodice and then top stitched down for a deconstructed-look finish. Since the seams are curved, it makes sense to use a tailor’s ham (although this is rather optional):

The final touch in the raglan bodice/sleeve seams is the top stitching with the raw edge finish. I chose to do this from the inside of the shirt. This is because the stabilized portion of the pattern pieces would be travelling across the feed dogs. When I tried this from the outside of the shirt (as you typically do with top stitching) the seam process distorted the fabric and made a wonky seam, so I flipped the shirt. As long as you go slowly and make sure to gently pull the seam open, sewing from the backside of the garment lends a good result:

Since I made the “puff sleeve” version of the garment, the next steps in the pattern were to gather the raw edges of the sleeve hem into the two strips that will form the finished sleeve. This is done by a long basting stitch on the sleeve’s raw edge to gather the sleeve, then applying the two edge strips simultaneously. Again, the importance of securing the thread tails before you sew will result in a clean finish:

After attaching the sleeve strips, you press them together (hiding the raw edges of the sleeve end) and top stitch. Easy-peasy!

For a more subtle finish, you could use a matching thread instead of the contrast I have done here.

The side seam is one of the last remaining aspects to shirt construction. I elected to do a typical finish – that is stitch it right-sides together, then finish the inside seam allowances for sturdiness. One nice thing with a knit is you usually only have to pin at the top and bottom of a seam. Go slowly and stretch to fit and you’ll have lovely results. I sewed at a 1/2″ seam allowance (instead of the pattern’s 1/4″), because I knew my skinny-minnie daughter would fit just fine, and I wanted to trim the seam down to a clean edge before finishing the seams:

After trimming, and then stitching along the seam allowances:

The neckline is probably the trickiest part of this particular pattern, but it is an ingenious little treatment that not only looks fabulous but is a lot less trouble than most self-finished necklines. Two strips are sewn, one at a time, first to the outside of the garment than the inside. Both strips are simply overlapped at each short end. The outside strip is sewn at a slightly wider seam allowance. Thus when you press up both strips the seam line will cover itself. The only thing that remains is to sew a tiny rectangle, anchoring the overlapped ends of the neckband at the back-left shoulder.

So first, pinning:

I always imagine the Beginner stitcher is alarmed at this point. The neckband of shirts is always so much smaller than the shirt opening! But, that’s the point. This strip, cut against the knit grain, will pull the shirt neckline in to lie flat on the body. Again, you sew with the strip facing up and the shirt neckline against the machine. Carefully pin at a few places and stretch and the whole thing comes together like a dream.

Although the pattern doesn’t have this extra step, after attaching each neckline strip I prefer to trim the seam at 3/16″ from the innermost seam, then press up and top stitch:

Here’s the best trick I know regarding top stitching: go slow! Very few of us make “perfect” top stitching but the slower you go, and the more you practice, the better things will look.

Finally, stitch the little rectangle at the back-left shoulder seam where the strips overlapped. The best thing about this little square is it will look different every time. It’s like a signature:

Finally, either wash by hand or throw in the washing machine and dryer to rid the fabric of the crunchy stabilizer. Then present your client with their new shirt! After the cutting and stabilizing aspects of construction (which I typically do the night before and take about a half hour), the shirt takes less time to sew than it took me to write out this tutorial. It’s a quick and lovely creation.

Thanks again Kelly!

Have a wonderful weekend and Happy Sewing!

ps.  visit again on Monday for a little Liberty giveaway.

photo source: style.com

If you are like me, there are 6 seasons in a year. And right now, it’s fashion week season! I have been following along and even though NY Fashion week hasn’t even wrapped up, it’s pretty obvious that fur will carry through to next season! Faux fur – pretty please!

It feels so validating as we launched our Lux Vest pattern in late December. We truly think every little girl should have one! One yard of the fuzzy goodness will yield two of those adorable vests. For our photoshoot I made two identical vests for our two models. They are really good friends (so are their moms) and whenever they show up in their partner gear, people literally stop us to ask where they got the vests!

It’s a super quick sew and the best part is to see people’s jaws drop when you tell them that it’s handmade! Yay!

Just browsing the web a bit I found these other options for kids:

collage: Babycenter

Babycenter put this trend alert-fur-vests on their blog.

photo: Pink Chicken

Or this cute little combo here by Pink Chicken…

…which reminds me so of this funky vest Regina made from our pattern!

crew cuts fur vest

How adorable is the crew cuts vest with a satin ribbon around the waist?

Threads Magazine has a sewing school article about how to put together the fantasy fur jacket.

We also found some great online resources that stock a wonderful array of faux fur for this fuzzy pleasure:

- Fabric Depot stocks the fur I used.
- Fabric.com has some great long pile as well as short hair fur.
- Fabric Empire is running a sale on furs right now.
- I’m stuffed fur has some really great ones too!

Now, get your vacuum out (trust us, you’ll need it!), get ahead of the curve and sew one (or make that two!). We’d love to see the results on our flickr group!

I have a very opinionated little girl.

Over the last years I have learned that with kids everything is a phase. Right now, my daughter is going through an intense phase of not wearing anything but dresses. Pink dresses I might add. I surrendered – getting her into separates is a fight not worth fighting.

I love the Ayashe blouse and how quickly it goes together. How lovely would it be as a tunic or dress? Have you wondered the same? Here a little tutorial on how to lengthen the style.

Here is what I used:

1. Swedish Tracing Paper – I love that stuff and it literally revolutionized my sewing – I am not kidding. It doesn’t tear like regular paper or tracing paper, will cling to the fabric, so there is no need to pin the pattern to the fabric AND it totally eliminates the need to carefully cut the pattern pieces prior to cutting into the fabric! Besides that it folds/stores well and can be ironed. A total time saver and therefore a win in my book!

2. Vary Form Rulers – a set of curved rulers that helps strike beautiful curves and is indispensable for paper pattern making. Easier on the budget though is this styling ruler that’s kind of all-in-one if you are just starting out to make pattern adjustments.

3. C-Thru Ruler – a straight ruler that is a little easier to handle then a quilting ruler. Yet the later would work the same and if you go with the aforementioned styling ruler, you’ll be set anyways.

4. Pencil

5. Measuring tape (not shown – it hung around my neck while I took the picture )

6. The Ayashe pattern, of course.

The pattern weights are optional and I only used them to accurately trace the blouse pattern from the pattern sheet.

Now let’s get to it: Lengthening the main body parts of the Ayashe blouse.

Can you see my traced blouse pattern piece lying underneath my tracing paper? If you want to start out with the tunic length right away, make sure to start tracing you pattern towards the top edge of your tracing paper to leave enough space to lengthen the hem, at least 9″ though.

First, elongate the Center Front (CF – that’s the straight line, not the curved one) in a straight line.

Measure 6″ (for size 2/3 and 4/5) down along the extended CF line, and mark with with the pencil.

Here what we recommend per size for a dress ending above the knee:
5″ (18mos)
6″ (2/3 and 4/5)
7″ (6/7) and
7.5″ (8/9).

Generally, if you want the outcome to be longer, add a bit more as it is so much easier to shorten, then to lengthen a garment.

At the marking, draw a line in a right angle towards the side seam. It’s important that this line is at a right angle – otherwise you’ll end up with a funky point or dip in your garment.

Now on to the side seam. With your Vari-form or Styling ruler, find a curve you feel will elongate the existing curve nicely. Cut the little corner like shown above to create a nice line. Don’t worry too much, there is no single ‘right’ curve here. Yet, be careful as to let the curve swing out too much as it will be harder to hem a very dramatic shape at the end.

Now, measure along the new side seam beginning with the original hem, the same length you measured along the CF and mark on that line. In my case, it’s again 6″.

Then strike a short line in a right angle towards the CF and let it cross the straight hem line.  Again, drawing a right angle at the side seam will ensure your side seams will sew together without a weird angle poking out or dipping in.

Use your Vary-Form or French Curve and find a smooth curve connecting the new hem line with the right-angle-line we just drew.

Your new hem line is almost finished! Final steps is to measure 1″ and 3/4″ up from the new hem line. Mark both.

Lay your ruler parallel to the CF, intersecting the 1″ mark – as shown above,  and transfer the 3/4″ mark down to the new hem line.

Join this with the 1″ marking. This little angle will help eliminate excess fabric when you hem the dress.
Repeat the same steps with the back piece of the Ayashe and….

TADA!
Your new dress pattern is finished!
Well done!

Curious to see how mine turned out? Here’s the final outcome of my pattern adjustment.
A happy camper in a pink floral dress made out of Liberty Art fabric.

Need any tips beyond the instruction booklet on how to put your dress together? Don’t forget about Shelly’s three part sew along Ayashe post here, here and here! Also did you see Jen’s gorgeous hand embroidery for Valentine here? Now, we can’t wait to see how your Ayashe turned out? Please share on our flickr group.

On a side note: Do you love Liberty Fabrics as much as we do? We are preparing a little surprise give away on this blog – so come back again soon!

]]> http://figgyspatterns.com/2012/02/ayashe-how-to-lengthen-the-blouse-to-a-tunic-or-dress-length/feed/ 5 http://figgyspatterns.com/2012/02/just-in-time-for-valentines-day/ http://figgyspatterns.com/2012/02/just-in-time-for-valentines-day/#comments Fri, 10 Feb 2012 12:31:17 +0000 Shelly Figueroa http://figgyspatterns.com/?p=861

Today we have a special guest, a dear friend and very talented sewist Jen Carlton Bailly!  Jen had stitched up some cuteness during the sew along and we are so pleased she’s is sharing with all of us!  I won’t keep you waiting…..

From Jen:

It’s not a secret that I love sewing patterns from Figgy’s.  They are simple, clean, modern and easy.  The Ayashe was no exception. When I read this, “You love your little one and one way you express your love is by hand tailoring a beautiful wardrobe especially for her”, from the front of the Ayashe Pattern I was so inspired to make something beautiful for my daughter. Amelia has so many prints in her closet, so I thought using simple red linen that I had stashed away for something special would be perfect.

While sewing I was reminded of a little shop in Seattle that used to sell clothes from Europe. All of the hand stitching was so beautiful.  Then it came to me, I’ll add a little hand stitching to the front of this to give it a little pop, and it would be perfect for Valentines Day! Below are instructions for how you can do this to your blouse too!

Supplies:

Embroidery floss- I used three strands of white DMC

Hand sewing needle

Water Soluble pen

Ruler

Step One:

Using a ruler and a water-soluble marking pen, make a straight line up the front of your blouse and in between the stitch lines. Carry the line gently to form the heart. I just free handed.

Step Two:

Thread your needle, and tie a knot.  Starting about ½ inch from the start of your line, insert your needle in between the layers of the front and the back of the blouse. Pull your floss all the way through and gently tug on it to pop the knot in-between the layers of fabric.

Step Three:

Using a small running stitch (Pass the needle in and out of the fabric, making the surface stitches of equal length) follow the line that you marked. My stitching was about a ¼ inch.

Continue into the heart. At your last stitch tie a knot and pull it through the fabric the same way you began. 

Step Four:

Repeat on other side.  Spritz marks with water.

Give to a little one you love.

Thank you so much Jen, and thank you A for being so cute!

I hope you are all inspired to add special touches to your Ayashe blouse as I am.

  Remember to add your photos to our flickr group or facebook page!

Welcome to the last day of the Ayashe blouse sew along.  It went too fast, that just shows us, that even with all of the wonderful details in this blouse, it is a simple pattern but still tastefully contemporary.

Today we will set in the sleeves and finish the hem.

SLEEVES

I accidentally forgot to take photos of how I hemmed the sleeves.  I got excited, and moved on to the next step.  I am making the 18mo size and I found that turning the raw edge of the sleeve hem 1/8″ twice was sufficient and left room for the sleeve to attach to the body.  There is still room if you choose to turn the hem 1/4″ twice, but I wanted extra room to set in the sleeves.

I also hemmed the sleeves before I set them.  The reason why is because I find it easier to do this first rather than last for toddler size patterns.  The reason why most don’t instruct sewists to do this is if you look at the photos above you’ll see that I hemmed and pressed my seam open, but it won’t stay flat permanently. To fix this I tacked the seam allowance.  It won’t show and it fixes the issue.

See.

To set in the sleeve you will first turn the garment wrong side out.  Insert the sleeves right side facing the right side of the blouse.  Align the markings and underarm seam with the side seam and pin.  You’ll see that it fits perfectly, ahhh.

The trick to setting a sleeve in little sizes is not trying to wrap the sleeve around the machine bar but place the presser foot into the sleeve itself.  As you can see above I am sewing on the wrong side of the sleeve inside the sleeve cap.  The machine will take me full circle without any drama.

Pink and press.

BOTTOM HEM

I chose the elastic hem because Ofelia is still young enough to pull the drawstring out of the casing over and over again just for fun.  My sister would have to re thread it over and over again, not for fun.  Also, I am an awesome sister by thinking of her.

First, turn the bottom hem 1/4″ and press.  Turn again 1″, press and pin.  Leave a 1″ opening to feed the elastic through the casing.  I left my opening at the side seam where stitches will be less obvious.  I am without a bodkin so I used a safety pin to thread the elastic through the casing.  Make sure not to twist the elastic and don’t let the tail get swallowed or you’ll have to re thread.  Overlap the ends of the elastic and stitch together.  Sew the opening closed.

How much elastic should you use?  Good question.  My neice’s waist is 20″ so I cut 15″ of elastic that has a good amount of stretch.  It stretched to 30″.  I would go by your child’s waist measurement and deduct the amount necessary for the amount of elasticity the elastic has.

For the Draw String method:

On the wrong sides of the shirt hem fuse a 3″ piece of interfacing to the blouse on the center bottom front hem.  Sew buttonholes 1/4″ to the left and right of  the center front. Refer to day 2 on how to prepare the bias tape.  Once you’ve press the tape in half, stitch down both edges.  Knot the ends of the tape.  Feed the tape/string into one buttonhole, around the hem line and out the other.

All Done!  Nice work.

Want to see mine?

Back Detail.  My wooden hangers are curved which is causing the back to look a bit “hump back”.  I need to purchase some flat hangers.

I don’t know about you but I LOVE IT!

I hope you find this sew along to be helpful as you sew your adorable blouse.    Please come back again tomorrow because we have a very special guest hosting a tutorial on how  to make the perfect Ayashe blouse just in time for Valentines Day!

Happy Sewing!

Welcome back to Day 2!

It is nice and bright this morning in Portland and perfect for sew along photos.

We left off yesterday with all of the pattern pieces cut, the upper collar interfaced and we gathered the front shoulders and back panel.  I think we’re ready, let’s sew!

For a larger view please click on the photo.

Front Seam

Before sewing the center front seam it is best to measure the 1 1/4″ seam allowance rather than hope for the best.  This will ensure a nice straight line.

Sew the center front seam from the bottom hem up.  Once you reach the slit marking do a back stitch and then adjust the stitch lenth to the longest length.

Press the seam open and fold the raw edge 1/4″ under on both sides of the seam. The Ezy-Hem helper is a great way to measure this long seam so it will be nice and even.  Press flat once more.

Top stitch along both folded edges.  Top stitch again centered between the seam alowance and the stitch line.  Now you may notice I am not perfectly centered between the two.  Why?  Honestly?  I was being lazy.  I decided that if I aligned the presser foot with the center line it would give me a nice straight line all the way down.  You should measure between the two lines, chalk and topstitch.

Shoulder Panels

Align the markings, distribute the gathers evenly and pin.  Sew the seam.

Remove the gathers.  I like to press the seam up on the wrong side and then press again on the right side for a nice clean pressed look.

Repeat with the front shoulder panels.

The shoulder panels are now sewn, pressed and ready for the facing.  Using a seam gauge fold the seam allowances 1/2″ towards the wrong side and press.  As you may already know I have an obsession with “Wondertape”.  Karen and I used to buy it by the box.   I use it for so many things.  In this case, I’m using it to hold the shoulder panel facing in place on the wrong side when I top stitch on the right side.

If you don’t know what “Wondertape” is (for some reason whenever I say the word I want to shout it out like Oprah when she would shout out the name of her guest.) then I’ll quickly tell you.  It is wash away double sided tape.  Place the tape on top of the seam allowance, then place the shoulder panel facing on top of the seam allowance.  Other options are to baste the panel in place or use pins.  On the right side of the garment top stitch in the seam (stitch in the ditch) or next to the seam.  I aligned my 1/8″ marker on the presser foot along the seam and top stitched.  Remove any baste stitches if used.

Repeat on the back.

Collar Time

Begin by stay-stitching the neck opening.

We have two collar options: Mandarin Collar or Tie String.  I’m going to take you through both.

MANDARIN COLLAR

Press the bottom raw edge of the outer collar (upper) 3/8″ towards the wrong side.  Align the raw edges of the inner and outer collar and stitch along the short and long edges.  Trim the seam allowance to 1/4″ and clip along the curve. This will help reduce bulk and give you a nice smooth finish.

Align the collar raw edges with the neck opening and markings.  Pin and stitch.  Trim the seam allowance to 1/4″.  Turn the collar towards the wrong side of the garment and smooth the edges.  I used a dull pencil to do this but you can use a turning tool or a knitting needle, just don’t use anything pointy and sharp.

Once again, I found another use for my “wondertape” (no they don’t pay us to advertise, but they should).  Included in each pattern you purchase is a lovely woven label.  These labels will give the garment that professional touch and they can also serve as hooks to hang the garment (like the Nituna Jacket).  I placed the tape along the seam and then placed the label on top.  Sandwich the Figgy’s label between the blouse and the collar and be sure the seam allowance is tucked inside.

Pin and top stitch. Done, unless your hosting a sew along and you need to show the alternative collar option.  A little seam ripping and then we’ll be ready.

TIE STRING COLLAR

Yesterday I shared a wonderful “how to” link for making bias tape and if you read it you’ll notice in my photo I cheated a little today.  For good reason though!  I love selvedge on Japanese fabric.  Some of them are really unique and I really wanted to use this for the tie string, so I did.  Press the bias tape in 1/2.  Fold both sides in toward the center crease and press.  I also folded and pressed mine once more to ensure a nice clean crease.

Turn the garment wrong side out, open the bias tape and align the right side of the bias tape raw edge and the wrong side of the blouse. Leave an equal amount of tie string hanging off each end of the neck slit.  Pin and stitch.  Use the same method as the mandarin collar mentioned above to attach the label.

Fold the tape in half wrong sides together, press and top stitch from one end to the other.  Tie each tie string end in a small decorative knot.

The last thing I did was sew a little bar tack at the bottom of the neck slit.  I did this for extra security. A backstitch should suffice but I wanted just a little more security for the times when Ofelia wants to pull her blouse on herself toddler style.

Look, it’s almost a shirt!

It’s beginning to rain now which is perfect timing because day two is complete.  Well Done!

See you tomorrow to finish our Ayashe blouse!

Happy Sewing!

ps.  Did you happen to catch Daniela’s comment yesterday?  She’s got something gorgeous to show us very soon and you will see she gave us a small piece of her design wisdom.

Welcome to the first day of the sew along!  If you are just now joining us please feel free to jump in at any time!  Who knows, maybe you’ll learn something new by just reading along?  Today we are just going to cut and prepare our work for tomorrow’s sewing, but first if you don’t mind, I’d like to start by answering one frequently asked question.

Why is the pattern printed on both sides?

1. We print our patterns on both sides using recycled newsprint to save paper waste. Less paper also means lighter shipping which means less shipping cost for you!  You can trace the pattern using tracing paper, freezer paper or any paper that is translucent.

2. Tracing the pattern allows you to use the pattern over and over again as your daughters or granddaughters grow, and they do grow fast. If you were to cut the pattern you would only get one size out of the pattern and that’s not good for anyone.

3.  Personal preference.  Tissue paper patterns tend to rip easily and the print fades with time.

I hope this answers your question, but if you have more, please feel free to email us.

Let’s get started!

For a larger view please click on the photos.

The very first thing you should do before anything else (if possible) is measure your child.  Every designer and label has their own unique sizing, which means your daughter may measure to be a Figgy’s size 3, but for another pattern she may be a 2.  You’ll find the sizing chart on the back of the pattern cover.

When preparing this sew along I noticed a tiny typo in the sizing chart.  The Chest measurement for size 2/3 should read 21 – 21.5.  We apologize for any confusion.

For this blouse you’ll want to take a chest and waist measurement.  If you have decided to make the long sleeve version, I would also measure from the shoulder to the wrist.  What happens if your daughter is between sizes?  I always recommend going bigger before going smaller, because tomorrow they’ll probably awake .5″ taller, and of course their bellies grow after every meal.

Fabric.

  Gosh, I love it!  For this blouse I chose to use a Japanese Lawn cloth by Yuwa because it’s one of my favorite fabrics to work with. It will drape well and the fabric hand is perfect for my niece’s sensitive skin.

Tracing the pattern.

 A little lesson I learned from Sarai & Caitlin at Colette patterns is using colored pencils to trace.   They really are perfect for the job.  I use one color to trace the outer main pattern piece and another color for my markings.

 So here we have traced all the pieces we need for our Ayashe of choice.  As you can see I’ve decided to make the Ayashe with the Mandarin Collar and short sleeves.  I am still undecided as to whether or not I’d like the drawstring or elastic at the hem.  If you have already chosen to use the bias tape draw string you will need to cut bias tape from the fabric 1.5″ x 35″.   If you have chosen the bias tape tie string collar option you will need to also cut bias tape from the fabric that is 1.5″ x 30″.  Sarai also has one of the best bias tape tutorials I’ve seen so if you need a little help with the process please visit HERE.

 You can use weights or pins to keep the pattern from shifting.  Normally,  I would use weights and my rotary cutter, but the blade broke and I had to use pins and scissors. The reason why I suggest the rotary cutter is with this lightweight of a fabric the pattern pieces can slip easily and the scissors may leave chomp like markings.

Before I begin cutting I like to snip out the triangles on the paper.  It is important the you never snip in towards the seam allowance when cutting out the fabric pattern pieces.  You don’t want to accidently snip in too far.

Prepare the details.

Interface one of the collar pieces, this will become the Upper collar.  Remember, the “bumpy” side of the interfacing faces the wrong side of the fabric.  I use the fabric pattern piece I cut and not the paper piece, because I feel it gives a more accurate cut.

All cut and interfaced.  I’m ready to go!

 Notice I put my pattern pieces in a zip lock bag?

This is a great way to store your patterns.  Just remember to label the bag then file it away.

Last step, gathers.

Sew two rows of *gathering stitches between the notches on both the back and the front pieces.

To create *gathering stitches you simply increase the stitch length to the longest length.

*To gather simply pull both bobbin threads and slide the fabric towards the opposite direction.

That’s it for today!

See you tomorrow when we will stitch up the front and attach the shoulder panels and collar!  Happy Sewing!

I love a fun sew along.  My two favorite parts:  all the visual details of the sewing process and the gorgeous results from the sewists.  We decided that the “Ayashe” blouse will be the highlight of our first sew along because of all the little details it has to offer.  We’ll take you through learning how to gather, attach facings, adding elastic or a draw string to the hem and attaching a mandarin color.

Need a little inspiration?  Have a look at these two adorable Ayashe Blouses that popped up in the flickr group this last week created by Hemoglobin Hummingbird and Daisy Girl.

Just a touch of Liberty, perfect!

Just Lovely!

Using Tula Pink, Prince Charming was a terrific fabric choice and her daughter couldn’t be any cuter!

The sew along will begin on Wednesday, February 8th.  Don’t worry if you haven’t purchased the pattern yet, you still have time!  Order by Saturday the 4th and I’ll post the pattern priority mail.  Visit the Ayashe page for the supplies you’ll need to purchase this weekend to get started.

Daniela has created two adorable buttons for you to choose from.   Feel free to copy and paste this code onto your blog.  Email us at info@figgyspatterns.com to let us know you’re sewing along and we’ll be sure to link your blog at the end of the sew along.

Happy Sewing!

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<div align="center"><a href="http://www.figgyspatterns.com" title="Figgys Patterns"><img src="http://figgyspatterns.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Ayashe-sewalong_blue-06sm.jpg" alt="Figgys Patterns" style="border:none;" /></a></div>

I made this little heart last year for Franco.  I put it in his lunch box the day before Valentines day so it would be a surprise.  I loved it so much I made 25 just like it for his classmates!  It was a lot of fun and I received many emails from mothers saying how nice it was for their child to receive a handmade heart instead of the typical buy and toss kind.  Some of you may remember this from last year but the original post is lost and not yet found so I thought I’d share once more. Happy Stitching!

Supplies:

Download the Hearts template HERE!

2 – 7 x 7 felt squares

1 – 5 x 5 felt square

Red Carpet/Button Thread

Beige Carpet/Button Thread

Hand Sewing Needle

Pin and cut 2 out of the Main felt and 1 out of the Contrast felt.

Center the white heart onto one of the red hearts and pin or use a double sided tape to hold in place.  Using a running stitch, sew the heart in place.  Begin sewing down first so the knot shows.

Next up is learning how to do sew a Blanket Stitch.  I prefer visuals when learning something new so I hope this helps.  Grab a piece of scrap felt and practice first.

Thread the needle and knot one end.  Sew from behind to the front.

Loop around and sew into the first hole.

Don’t pull it tight but leave a loop.   Sew into the loop then pull tight (not too tight).

Repeat roughly 1/4″ away from the first stitch.

Ready?

Place the two red hearts on top of one another.  When you first begin, only sew along the top layer beginning about 1/2″ from the center along the right and ending 1/2″ from the center along the left.  This will leave an opening to place the love note.

Now begin to sew through both layers.

Stitch around the heart until you reach 1/2″ from the center top and then only sew along the back of the heart.

Write a cute letter to your Valentine, roll it up and slide it into the opening of the heart envelope!

 Tada!

Happy Sewing!  Figgy’s Hearts YOU!

This story begins with 1 yard of fabric, passed on to me by Susan, with a task attached: Create something really beautiful – anything you like – and once finished, it’ll be showcased at a particular store and I would have to teach a class on the item – then, the finished product would be mine.
It was a beautiful fabric.
And I knew exactly what I would want it to become.

At the same time, a warm and sunny September day, Shelly and I were meeting for lunch. I showed her the the fabric and told her what I’d like to make from it. Her eyes lit up and she responded … what if …
Then we put our heads together and started planning. It was a long lunch break and I don’t know if either of us ever expensed it (tax time people – get ready!) but the outcome was a new pattern company and this:

Nituna in the Ochoco fabric I was given,
with brown suede tape and binding details.

and then this:

Nituna reversible Jacket

The Nituna reversible jacket pattern was actually the first jacket pattern in the new Figgy’s line. I love the simplicity of the design and the versatility of the pattern. And how it can showcase double faced fabrics beautifully without strange bits and bobs that you have to live with when making a reversible style. And made up in any of the many beautiful Pendleton fabrics – you’ll create a truly show-stopping piece.

“Wait a minute!” you might say “all of this sounds super nice but where I live, I can’t even get my hands on any Pendleton fabrics”

No need to be discouraged – Pendleton has a huge store here in Portland and the staff is very nice and extremely helpful. They post most of their fabrics including (sales) on their blog – and if you have laid eyes on a specific fabric, just call them toll free 866.865.9285  and they’ll ship out to you. All the ingredients for the jacket above can be purchased at their store and they also carry the Nituna pattern.

Didn’t I mention that the pattern is very versatile?
This version here  is made up in Loden (node to my Bavarian upbringing) with a graphic quilting cotton as lining:

And this guy here is out of a thick double face polar fleece with a Sherpa like side (inside) and a flat micro fleece side (outside). I left the patch pockets unfinished with the raw edges showing which just underlines the rugged appeal of the fabric. I omitted the buttons at the front which makes for a nice, flattering drape effect.

Last but not least: The class I talked about earlier.
Portlanders and all sewistas in the vicinity: I’ll be teaching a class on the Nituan patten at the Pendleton Wollen Mills Store end of January. The price of the class includes fabric, all trims, a label and the pattern. It’s rated an advanced class as handling blanket weight fabric requires somewhat experienced hands. It’s a two session class so there will be homework in between classes. The official list is not up yet. But like us on Facebook and stay up to date once the listing is up to secure your spot. All you need to bring is yourself and your trusty sewing machine. Everything else is provided. Here the details to pencil in:

1/28 & 2/4
10am – 12pm

Pendleton Woolen Mills Store
8500 SE McLoughlin Blvd.
Portland, Oregon 97222
503.535.5786
866.865.9285 toll free

Hope to see you all and
Cheers to 2012!!!

We can’t believe 2011 is almost over and what a year!

 Will you be hosting a big party to celebrate the coming year or staying in to watch the ball drop?  Do you need the perfect addition for your little ones outfit to celebrate?  Well, we have something special for you!   As we quickly approach this new year we are very excited to introduce our first Figgy’s e-pattern: The “Lux Vest”- priced at $8, available exclusively through our website! But because giving is better then receiving – especially for all our Figgy’s friends – we’ll include the e-pattern FREE of charge with the purchase of any pattern placed on the site now through January 1, 2012! Simply use the coupon code LUX2011 at checkout for sewing fabulousness.

The Lux Vest is rated a beginner project and comes with Ohhh! and Ahhh! guarantee.  It is a quick and easy sew with tips and tricks about how to sew with faux fur and can be completed in just a couple of hours with enough time to spare to make another Sunki, Ayashe or even Nituna!  Size range 18mo – 8/9yrs

We hope you have a fun & safe night out on New Years Eve, or if you’re like me, a cozy and quiet time  with my boys (what could be better?).

Be sure that you have transferred all markings from the pattern piece onto the fabric. You can use chalk, fabric marker, snip in or clip the triangle. I’m a snipper myself.

Page 4,  Step 4 & 5:

Align the right sides of the pocket bag with the dress front and pin.  I like to start at the bottom and end at the top of the pocket when I align and pin the raw edges.  I used chalk to mark where to stop sewing if I sew with dress side facing the feed dogs.  If you are sewing with pocket facing the feed dogs there is no need for this mark.

Sew the seam and press the top corner down toward the wrong side of the pocket.

Step 6:  Right sides facing align the raw edges of the side panel and the dress front.  Align the marking on the side panel and the marking on the dress.  The top corner of the side panel will be 1/2″ longer than the dress.  This is the seam allowance and when the side panel is pressed to the back it will algin perfectly.

Step 7: Sew the seam, trim the pocket seam to an 1/8″ and snip along the curve of the side panel.

Step 8:  Turn the pocket bag to the wrong side of the dress and press flat. Topstitch

Step 9:  Turn the side panel to the back wrong sides facing.  Align the pocket bags, stitch and finish the seam.  I used pinking shears to finish the seam.  I’ve been into those lately.

Press well!

Step 10:  Top stitch the top of the side panel.

The end result:  A gift for my neice Ofelia, just in time for the grandparents visit!

Size 2/3 yr

Fabric:  Boho by Annette Tatum

Some of you have received your pattern in the post and opened it….”hey, what’s this?”, a little label just for you!   A beautiful woven label is included with every purchase of a Figgy’s pattern. A little extra bonus for you the sewist. These labels don’t only give your garment a professional finishing touch, they clearly state that the garment has been lovingly crafted by hand.

At Figgy’s we make it very easy and profitable for the boutique sewer to use our patterns.  We believe that a label not only enhances your garment but it showcases that you take pride in working with an established and trusted pattern brand.  We will do everything in our power to make sure you have a quality product in hand.  Once you fall in love with the patterns and want to make multiple garments for your shop we have label bags available to purchase.  We want to ensure your success and we know this is the perfect touch for the garment.

“Wait! my label doesn’t look like the one in the photo above?”  Don’t worry, there is a special reason for that.  If you received a pattern with a silver “Figgy’s” limited edition label (I feel a little like Mr. Wonka) that means we want to feature your garment on our blog and you’ll also receive a special coupon code for your future order!  Email a photo of the garment to info@figgyspatterns.com.  We look forward to seeing everyone’s garments so please upload them to our flickr group: www.flickr.com/groups/patternsbyfiggys

We’re counting the days awaiting the patterns arrival and I know some of you are too!  Two days ago the printer called and asked us to come down and approve the hard copy.  It was the first time in 3 years that I was asked to come to the back of the building.  Tom, John and Linda at StevensIS are amazing and they each do a great job at their job.  From the first time I walked in the door I was treated like family, and it’s funny I feel a little like family now.  It didn’t matter how small of a company we are or how small the job is, we are always treated special, and it doesn’t hurt that Linda is always super excited to see what’s next.  So what happens in the “back of the building”?  Printing of course.  Big machines, vegetable based inks and loud noises.  Loved it.  Tom took me over to where the pattern covers were being printed, he grabbed one of the prints put his hand on my shoulder and said, “kid, you’re movin up”.  Felt good to hear him say that since he’s been with me since the first bubble skirt.  He asked me to proof read and sign off.  Daniela had been in earlier and gave her approval so all I had to do was initial:

They’ve since been sent to the Die Cutters and are on their way home, well my home.  Next stop is your home!

Happy Sewing (very soon)!

That’s been the big question this week.  Everyday I receive emails asking about the fabric we used for the Sunki dress.  The fabric is an Ikat, and it seems to be popping up everywhere.

An Ikat fabric is very easy to spot because of an elaborate weaving process that results in an interesting blurred appearance and come in wonderful pattern ranges.  Ikats are more than just a trendy fabric, they’re complex with a long history.  Ikat derived from the word mengikat, meaning to tie & bind or wind around.  They achieve the blurred look through a three-step process.  Threads are first tie-dyed then woven into long narrow strips.  They are then patched together very carefully to create width.

I wish I could take the credit for finding this fabric, but it was all Daniela.  She found the fabric at a local fabric shop here in Portland, “Mill End“.  If you happen to live in Portland and visit the shop, it will unfortunately be gone.  Who’s to blame?  A very good friend and supportive customer Deb Miller.  She alerted me via facebook;  ”I went to Mill End and bought out the rest of that bolt of ikat fabric from the little Figgy’s dress because I loved that fabric so much.  Gonna see if I can make a kid dress and a dress for me…”.  That’s some serious love, and I’m terribly jealous she bought the end of the bolt, but I have good news!  I was at “Sew Mama Sew” yesterday and when I walked in the door I immediately spied these beauties, and purchased some of course!

“Boho” by Annette Tatum

When I arrived home, and rolled around in my new fabric, I had to begin a google search for more Ikat fabric.  Here’s a bit of my journey.

At Purl Soho you’ll find beautiful hand painted 13:1 needlepoint canvas that features a gorgeous design inspired by Ikat rugs and tapestries.   Unique NZ Designs 

Fabric.Com has a wonderful collection of Ikats

I really could go on and on so I better stop here, but wait, did I mention Amy Butler?  I’m sure you’ve seen her new Lark collection!

Thank you for all of the interest and I hope this has helped those whom have been searching for the perfect Ikat fabric for the Sunki, or the Ayashe, or even a lining for the Nituna!

  As a Thank You for your support during this transition we would like to extend our Pre-Order sale through Friday, November 25th, 2011.  Have a wonderful holiday weekend!  Gobble Gobble.     -Figgy’s

racheldenny, adrianfraz, shapescolors, theifandbanditkids, littlepapercrane, hawkandbirch

corium, hellowallflower, theifandbanditkids,  iheartnorwedianwood,  thingslikediamonds, ClaireVerity

How you been finding more and more NW around you lately?  We’d love to hear all about it!

“Nativity” is a blend of Native inspiration, nature loving children and captivating designs. For the last couple of seasons, Trend and Design influences have been looking West. Fashion and retailers as well as urban brands like Opening Ceremony, Levi’s, Hurley, Anthropology are inspired by the spirit and visuals of Northwest (NW) - the place Figgy’s calls home.

For our inaugural pattern collection, we have chosen to celebrate everything we love about the beautiful NW and we we look forward to you joining in our celebration.

 SUNKI

This pocket dress is not only stylish but comfortable. You will have so much fun choosing fabric for this versatle dress design, and the leggins….they go together in a snap.

NITUNA

A swing coat that’s just stunning – not only in Pendleton fabrics – and made fully reversible with bound seams! Yet we also include instructions on how to make an equally adorable lined version.

AYASHE

A very cool combo!  This blouse & pleated skirt can be dressed up or down and is winter and summer appropriate depending on the type of fabric you choose.  The yoke on the top is double layered and expertly hides your seams.  The pleated skirt has an adjustable hidden elastic tape fed through the back for a perfect fit and sports pockets for the gatherers.

These garment patterns contain exactly what your little one will need to get through this holiday season and many more to come.   From Figgys to you this holiday season we are offering free domestic shipping on all pre-orders from now until November 25th.  For the international sewists – we didn’t forget you – we are offering shipping for only $1.50 per pattern!  Discount will already be in place at checkout.

Happy Holidays & Happy Sewing

During my life’s journey, I met a great gal, and we choose to walk down the same path for a while. Recently,we came to a fork in the road and each of us had to make a life changing decision.  It was not an easy decision, but that is where we found ourselves.  Because we choose to walk along different paths (but still write and send birthday cards) I was given a chance to revisit my vision of what was once a hobby that evolved into a passion that evolved into a business and now once again….evolving.  At first I was quite overwhelmed and wasn’t quite sure what to do, but a friend gave me some much needed advice; ”Shelly, you just need to let go and let life come to you”, so I did.  Almost immediatly after I let go people started knocking on my door.  Notice a change or two or seven?  Well everyone,  I’ve thrown my Mary Tyler Moore cap to the sky and am ready for what the future has to offer.

I would like to welcome you to “Figgy’s” and for those of you that have been by my side since the beginning, thank you so so much!

For more information about Figgy’s please visit ABOUT 

Happy Sewing!