Findstone Forums

Marble : Marble for Kitchen Floor

Sun, 15 Jan 2012 05:00:23 UT

Author: chicagostonepro
Subject: Marble for Kitchen Floor
Posted: 15 Jan 2012 at 5:00am

Welcome to the Forums.

I edited your post to hide your signature, because you included a direct email address. Many unscrupulous people - such as spammers - use automated programs to harvest email addresses from forums, so it's not usually a good idea to put your email address in the open like that.

You are welcome to include links in your signature, that cloak your info, using the Forum Codes. However, I discourage stone quarriers and brokers from using these forums for business to business advertising. That's what the main Findstone site is for.

These forums are for educating and helping end-users. Your efforts on this behalf are appreciated.

Regards.

Marble : Marble for Kitchen Floor

Wed, 11 Jan 2012 14:58:15 UT

Author: huilongstone
Subject: Marble for Kitchen Floor
Posted: 11 Jan 2012 at 2:58pm

Marble is elegant though,it is not an ideal materials for both walls and floors in a kitchen as it is easy to be splattered with grease. furthermore,some marbles looks dull as time past.

Edited by chicagostonepro - 15 Jan 2012 at 4:32am

General questions on all kinds of stones : sealing pebble tile floor

Thu, 22 Dec 2011 09:28:24 UT

Author: chicagostonepro
Subject: sealing pebble tile floor
Posted: 22 Dec 2011 at 9:28am

Hi rumjockey1,

That post was almost a year old. Probably hasn't been back since then.

Welcome to the forums.

General questions on all kinds of stones : sealing pebble tile floor

Wed, 21 Dec 2011 15:32:40 UT

Author: rumjockey1
Subject: sealing pebble tile floor
Posted: 21 Dec 2011 at 3:32pm

Sorry, I don't have any clear idea regarding this. You better go with Google search. I think definitely you will get the information about what you are looking for.

Edited by chicagostonepro - 22 Dec 2011 at 9:26am

Granite : Ubatuba Gold Advice

Fri, 25 Nov 2011 06:46:58 UT

Author: chicagostonepro
Subject: Ubatuba Gold Advice
Posted: 25 Nov 2011 at 6:46am

Welcome to the forums.

"Ubatuba" is primarily charnockite, which supposedly doesn't require sealing. I agree, the charnockite part of the matrix doesn't absorb much of anything - however, there's more to this material than pure charnockite - and it's that other stuff surrounding the charnockite crystals that sucks in oil and other liquids.

In addition, oils can seep into fissures and microfissures, resulting in stains.

Regarding the fissuring difference between "gold" and "typical", UbaTuba gold is less stable, and more prone to failures, both during production/installation, and during its use in a home. The problem is pretty much staring you in the face: The structure is exactly as it appears, and if the cabinet installation isn't nice and flat, and/or has large unsupported expanses, such as on large islands and long overhangs, a failure is a real possibility.

As to sealing this, water based sealers tend to haze this material, taking away from the nice deep appearance. I'd stick with a solvent based sealer.

I don't recommend oil based sealers. I know, solvent based sealers come from distilled oil, and I'm not talking about that.

Some materials traditionally get various oil based treatment, and if that's what you're asking about, the answer is NO, do not go that route here, as that only serves to weaken and stain this stone.

I personally like the look of uba tuba gold. You should get samples of the stone, and test with lemon wedges, to see if the stuff is acid sensitive, and also test the results of an enhancing sealer, to see if this is to your liking. Be aware that the lemon test should also be done on the enhanced stone, to see if the sealer will cloud from the acid.

Don't ever use any topical sealer on this stone. That would leave an exposed coating that would cause you more headaches than you could stand.

Regards.

Travertine : Iran Stone Exhibition 2011 Nov(nimvar)

Mon, 21 Nov 2011 18:54:04 UT

Author: Farid Mohammadi
Subject: Iran Stone Exhibition 2011 Nov(nimvar)
Posted: 21 Nov 2011 at 6:54pm

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You can see my trvaertine gallery and Stone Tecnalogy about 4th
Iran Stone Exhibition:
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Granite : Ubatuba Gold Advice

Mon, 21 Nov 2011 01:38:52 UT

Author: klrklr
Subject: Ubatuba Gold Advice
Posted: 21 Nov 2011 at 1:38am

Hello. I've read numerous posts about the properties of Ubatuba -- its density, whether it actually needs to be sealed, fissures, etc. I'm currently considering purchasing one of two varieties of Ubatuba for our kitchen. One is traditional Ubatuba, with smaller specks or pattern and a darker overall color. The other is "Ubatuba Gold", which has larger specks or mineral deposits. It also has a resulting lighter overall color, including more gold coloration. This Ubatuba Gold also has fissures all over its face (photo available, if requested). The mgr. at the supplier's warehouse assures me these fissures are just characteristic of this type of stone and are nothing to worry about. The fissures generally appear as very fine, white hairline cracks. You can barely feel a few of them if you run your hand over the slab. I thought that we might be able to eliminate the white fissure edges by applying a good quality enhancer or impregnating sealer. I'm not really worried about the existence of the fissures, per se, but would like to minimize the light color of the lines if possible.

So...would you recommend sealing/enhancing Ubatuba Gold in this case? If so, can you explain the difference between an enhancer and an impregnating sealer? For instance, we already have some Aqua Mix Enrich'N'Seal color enhancer/sealer. I think this is a water-based product w/polymers. We also have a product Stone Glamor, which is an oil-based penetrating and topical sealer made by Sparks. Would either of these be effective or appropriate for this application? I have purchased some MB Stone Care products in the past, but they were primarily cleaning and maintenance products -- not sealers or enhancers.

General questions on all kinds of stones : Introducing myself as a new member!

Thu, 10 Nov 2011 13:41:15 UT

Author: rumjockey1
Subject: Introducing myself as a new member!
Posted: 10 Nov 2011 at 1:41pm

Hi all..,

I am pretty new to this forum and I am very happy to be a part of this forum.
I hope I can enjoy by staying here...

Granite : Patches After Installation

Wed, 02 Nov 2011 04:15:32 UT

Author: CB Scotland
Subject: Patches After Installation
Posted: 02 Nov 2011 at 4:15am

Thanks for the response Phil, no worries about the delay, is fast considering it was written 5000 miles west!

As you predicted today the patches have noticably reduced, have put a panel heater in the alcove to speed up the process. Yeah having spoken to a couple of people I am well aware how inappropriate gypsum is, especially looking at its temperature resistance.

Will be putting in some subtle mechanical fixings to ensure the panels stay in place if the gypsum gives way..

Thanks again,
Craig.
Sunny(ish) Scotland.

Granite : external silver cloud granite staining

Tue, 01 Nov 2011 17:27:23 UT

Author: sturosen
Subject: external silver cloud granite staining
Posted: 01 Nov 2011 at 5:27pm

Dean-sounds like a sealer issue. If you used an impregnator prior to sealing on the underside of the stone what did you use on the surface as you didnt mention an impregnator. It sounds like the sealer was misapplied-please send some pics and some more info.
What was the process to apply the sealer to the surface and what sealer did you use.

Stu Rosen
www.findstone.com
www.stoneshine.com

Granite : Patches After Installation

Tue, 01 Nov 2011 09:43:15 UT

Author: chicagostonepro
Subject: Patches After Installation
Posted: 01 Nov 2011 at 9:43am

Hi Craig,

Sorry about the delay in response.

You're right about those spots being moisture. It's not unusual at all. White/grey 2cm granite wall panels can easily take a couple weeks to clear after installation.

The thing to be concerned about is the integrity of the installation: Those panels should have been set with a portland cement based product - namely, white thinset. Whomever told you to use gypsum patch to set that stone is an idiot.

The only time a gysum product is used, is as a spacer with a mechanical anchoring system - metal wire or hangers - on thicker panels, on interior applications. The gypsum isn't relied on to actually anchor the stone to the frames or underlying masonry.

Regards.

Granite : Patches After Installation

Thu, 27 Oct 2011 17:33:34 UT

Author: CB Scotland
Subject: Patches After Installation
Posted: 27 Oct 2011 at 5:33pm

Hey, great forum, hope you can help!

Have come up against a problem after installing 20mm thick granite sheets to surround an alcove that will contain a stove. The granite sheets are a light grey colour (not sure but can find out exact type/name), and they were installed by applying several patches of Gyproc Joint Filler (Gypsum based setting compound) to the back surface.

There are now very noticeable darker patches where the Gyproc was applied. They were installed almost two days ago, not sure if this is simply water being released as the compound sets, or worse that they have been stained. As far as I'm aware the stones were not sealed, but going to see my granite supplier this afternoon so can ask.

Any advice would be much appreciated, really didn't see this coming. Not sure whether the sheets should just be left to dry out, or if it's potentially a bigger problem. I can post up a photo as well if that helps.

Many thanks in advance!
Craig.

Granite : external silver cloud granite staining

Sun, 23 Oct 2011 14:49:07 UT

Author: deano
Subject: external silver cloud granite staining
Posted: 23 Oct 2011 at 2:49pm

Dear Sir,

I would like to seek your advice regarding a "Silver Cloud" granite stone from the USA and installed on a project in the Middle East. The stone was installed as external paving 50mm thick in large slab sizes with a honed finish. It was installed on a slab base and 40-50mm mortar fixing bed. A impregnator was applied to the underside and a sealant to the top surface finish.

The issue is the stone looks stained, or wet and patchy all over. The natural colours of the stone are greatly affected and the stone has been used in great quantity. I can email photo(s) of the stone pavement which has been installed for approximately 1 year now. I was enquiring if you could recommend any solution or if you offer services of a stone specialist or could recommend anyone to assist.

Thanking you in advance and I look forward to your reply. Dean

Marble : Marble for Kitchen Floor

Fri, 30 Sep 2011 08:19:09 UT

Author: chicagostonepro
Subject: Marble for Kitchen Floor
Posted: 30 Sep 2011 at 8:19am

Mott,

If you wish to advertise your chinese stone processing equipment, please contact the principals at the main findstone.com site. The main purpose of these forums is to offer advice and aid to end-users of natural stone products, primarily veneer.

In the process, we professionals often network information and experience while we problem-solve, and since this tends to expose stone-ignorance and fraud, the industry and end-users benefit as a result.

Which brings me to your "helpful" post above.

Marble is a poor choice for a kitchen. It is soft, scratches and stains readily, is easily damaged by most foods, and after it's etched stained and scratched up, looks dull, dingy, dirty no matter how you try to clean it. Once in such a state, it needs to be refinished by grinding it with diamonds as a first step. After refinishing, it's still the same material - a LOUSY product for kitchen use.

Please go get some education before making such comments. You don't do your professional credibility any good with such statements.

Granite : Cracks in Granite Countertop

Wed, 28 Sep 2011 11:44:45 UT

Author: livemott
Subject: Cracks in Granite Countertop
Posted: 28 Sep 2011 at 11:44am

It is a really problem. You can ask for replace all the granite, in case of break and causing any danger

Marble : Marble for Kitchen Floor

Wed, 28 Sep 2011 11:39:41 UT

Author: livemott
Subject: Marble for Kitchen Floor
Posted: 28 Sep 2011 at 11:39am

marble is good choice for kitchen, it is durable and easy to clean

Granite : Find stone importers to cooperate :)

Wed, 07 Sep 2011 05:17:31 UT

Author: chicagostonepro
Subject: Find stone importers to cooperate :)
Posted: 07 Sep 2011 at 5:17am

Hello Caitlin,

These forums are intended to be used to help consumers and professionals resolve installation and maintenance problems, and to network information on properties of various stone materials for purchase decisions by end users.

To advertise your products, please contact Vijay or Burzin at the main site, http://findstone.com/

Thank you.

Marble : need of marble flooring

Wed, 07 Sep 2011 05:03:40 UT

Author: chicagostonepro
Subject: need of marble flooring
Posted: 07 Sep 2011 at 5:03am

Hi Vlajko,

In addition, many liquids will etch marble immediately - no matter how quickly you clean the spill.

Regards.

Marble : need of marble flooring

Mon, 29 Aug 2011 21:50:03 UT

Author: Vlajko
Subject: need of marble flooring
Posted: 29 Aug 2011 at 9:50pm

Marble floor is used because of their elegance and toughness. But drinks and shampoo stain a marble floor quite easily ifthe floor is not immediately cleaned using soap and water.

Granite : Find stone importers to cooperate :)

Wed, 24 Aug 2011 15:21:09 UT

Author: caitlin3344
Subject: Find stone importers to cooperate :)
Posted: 24 Aug 2011 at 3:21pm

Hello! Dear Buddies,

How are you?

This is Caitlin from China. I'm honoured to get this chance to write to all of you.

We export large ranged Chinese stone for our customers. We mainly supply G350, G368, G365, G664, Shanxi Black, Butterfly green etc. and many beautiful marbles. They can be used to make countertops, sinks, kerbstone, pavements, wall cladding, tofindstones etc.
For more information, please go to visit our homepage: Removed by Moderator.

If you are interested in Stones, stones' products, don't forget to contact us.
Looking forward to hearing from you~

Best regards,

I remain yours faithfully,

Caitlin

Marketing Department
XIAMEN ZEXIAN TRADE CO., LTD
Contact info removed by moderator.

Edited by chicagostonepro - 07 Sep 2011 at 5:12am

Granite : Issues with China Granite

Wed, 24 Aug 2011 14:58:10 UT

Author: caitlin3344
Subject: Issues with China Granite
Posted: 24 Aug 2011 at 2:58pm

Hello! dear sir/madam, I'm sorry to hear that about China stone. :( But I have to figure out that the quality matter is not the reason of where it produce.

:0 I'm the stone supplier in China. We have the good quality stone if you want to pay a good price.

I think you may know Shanxi black (The purest black granite in the world from China) and Absolute black(from India)? They are all black granite. But I can say Shanxi black is much more expensive than Absolute black or anyother black granite from China. :)If you pay the equal price of Absolute black to buy the Shanxi Black, I can say that you have to consider the quality of the granite for it is impossible to buy shanxi black with the equal price of absolute black. And Maybe you don't know there are many kinds of pure black granite in China. That's a big problem!!

'cause many customers only inquiry about "what's the price of 'China black'"??? Then there are a lot of China supplier quote for you, but their black granite may be not the same!! It is why you may receive a much high price and a much low price for the "China black".

We must notice that sometimes the price shows the quality.

So Please do not attribute the issue to "China". The quality issues will appear all over the world. It depends on your selection at some extents.

We are a reliable China stone supplier. Obtain your trust is our most motivation. :)

We are always looking forward to hearing from you.

Granite : Granite color matching question

Sat, 20 Aug 2011 12:48:02 UT

Author: chicagostonepro
Subject: Granite color matching question
Posted: 20 Aug 2011 at 12:48pm

tnash,

Welcome to the forums.

You may have missed it, but an earlier post in this thread indicated there was a color difference in addition to the shade difference. Testing with mineral oil, in this case, is sort of like crossing your fingers and whistling as you skirt the graveyard.

Anyway, this is a dead issue at this point.

Sandstone : Indian Sandstone

Tue, 16 Aug 2011 20:47:16 UT

Author: tnash
Subject: Indian Sandstone
Posted: 16 Aug 2011 at 8:47pm

I agree with adityarawat1985. It's not possible to understand the problem without seeing your tile. You should post a photo of your tiles.

Granite : Granite color matching question

Sat, 13 Aug 2011 19:24:00 UT

Author: tnash
Subject: Granite color matching question
Posted: 13 Aug 2011 at 7:24pm

You don't need to use lemon juice to see how the stone would look like when darker. Your best bet is to use baby oil and rub some of it in a spot by the seam to see if the result satisfy you.

Marble : Marble Flooring

Sat, 13 Aug 2011 19:16:04 UT

Author: tnash
Subject: Marble Flooring
Posted: 13 Aug 2011 at 7:16pm

Tumbled marble tiles are also very popular with people who aim to recreate an antique appearance to their floors. The tumbled marble tiles are able to have that antique look due to the process that it undergoes, which involves tumbling these marble tiles inside a large drum with sand, resulting to marble tiles whose corners are a bit rounded with its edges slightly chipped.

General questions on all kinds of stones : Best Stone for Hardwater

Fri, 12 Aug 2011 09:34:04 UT

Author: chicagostonepro
Subject: Best Stone for Hardwater
Posted: 12 Aug 2011 at 9:34am

Slate exhibits a wide range of composition and performance. It's impossible to make a credible blanket statement such as "incredibly durable". Anyway, even the most dense slate, typically from Pennsylvania, will attract soap and hard water deposits.

Marble is calcium carbonate, so any attempt to clean calcium carbonate off of it - the major component of hard water - will also damage the marble.

Travertine and limestone - ditto the marble statement.

What does that leave you? Porcelain and granite. However, if you go granite, make sure you do a lemon test, to be sure the material actually does NOT react to acids. Much of what is called "granite" really isn't, and the lemon test is a great way to make sure what you get performs as you need it to in your real world. You should also try to scratch the material with the corner of a razor blade or razor knife. If it scratches, find another stone.

For the lemon test, cut a lemon into slices, and press a couple slices onto a sample of the stone you are considering. Leave it there a couple hours, or even overnight. If it's good material, it won't matter how long you leave the lemon on it. Remove the lemon, rinse the stone, wipe it dry, let it finish drying, and see if you have a lighter etched area from the lemon. Etch = FAIL.

You clean hard water deposits off granite with razor blades and weak acid cleaners, basically. This means you want to be sure what you install won't change color (isn't dyed), won't scratch (is harder than steel), won't etch (has no calcium or other acid sensitive minerals in it).

Regards.

General questions on all kinds of stones : river white granite absorbancy

Fri, 12 Aug 2011 09:11:34 UT

Author: chicagostonepro
Subject: river white granite absorbancy
Posted: 12 Aug 2011 at 9:11am

Hi Jane,

I don't understand the term "doing the aspect", but I guess it's a compliment. Thank you for that.

Regards.

General questions on all kinds of stones : Best Stone for Hardwater

Fri, 12 Aug 2011 07:32:14 UT

Author: jane-team
Subject: Best Stone for Hardwater
Posted: 12 Aug 2011 at 7:32am

1 slate - this incredibly durable stone has a natural, exotic colors, ideal for bathrooms. Slate does not require tedious cleaning, cleaning method is very simple. In fact, this can be said to provent stain stone. The color of this stone range, texture rough and difficult to slip.

2 marble - this type of stone the appearance of fine. It has a remarkable reputation, its surface can be polished, and the resulting gloss unprecedented. Therefore, the marble tiles for your bathroom a real significant effect. But the choice before you need to know about this stone are some important things. First, its high-gloss, looks so elegant, but very slippery when wet. In addition, marble is very fragile, which leads to its fragile. Moreover, the marble stone is the base class, if the chemical acid spill cleared up in the above result does not seriously stained the marble.

3. Travertine and limestone - the two stones have the same characteristics - they are more porous than granite or slate, is more soft. The natural earth tones to make it very interesting. However, their anti-fouling properties of low, its durability is also lower than the slate and quartz.

General questions on all kinds of stones : river white granite absorbancy

Fri, 12 Aug 2011 07:20:26 UT

Author: jane-team
Subject: river white granite absorbancy
Posted: 12 Aug 2011 at 7:20am

hi Phil ,

You are so expert in doing the aspect

Good.

Limestone : Limestone-burning plant (quick-lime)

Fri, 12 Aug 2011 07:08:39 UT

Author: jane-team
Subject: Limestone-burning plant (quick-lime)
Posted: 12 Aug 2011 at 7:08am

sorry , just now i check the internet and not find the answer . Do you know the answer now .

Granite : Granite Sealing

Fri, 12 Aug 2011 02:01:11 UT

Author: chicagostonepro
Subject: Granite Sealing
Posted: 12 Aug 2011 at 2:01am

Hi Jane,

Since your inquiry was posted in an old, unrelated topic, I created a relevant topic and moved your post here.

Welcome to the forums.

Granite and so-called "granite" - hard stones that are not true granite but referred to as such due to their hardness, absence of calcium, etc - often are susceptible to stains due to their porosity. Sealers propose to protect the stone from staining, by closing the pores (not good) or reducing the pore size into the range that prevents liquids from entering but allows gases/air to pass.

In kitchens, the main concern is oil stains. Oil has a lower surface tension than water, and because of this, oil will enter pores that water can't. Because of this, my personal focus is on sealing granite against oil stains. In my experience, if a "granite" resists oil, there will be no problem with water-based liquids.

Granite : Cloudy grey streaks golden oak

Thu, 11 Aug 2011 23:43:23 UT

Author: cschauf1
Subject: Cloudy grey streaks golden oak
Posted: 11 Aug 2011 at 11:43pm

I installed golden oak granite about 6 years ago . Our nanny used an indoor electric grill in an area of the granite and that area has turned dark with smokey grey streaks. The grill sat on a cutting bOard also. I have tried ready made poultice but no success. Do u have any suggestions? Thank you.

Granite : Granite Sealing

Thu, 11 Aug 2011 09:03:45 UT

Author: jane-team
Subject: Granite Sealing
Posted: 11 Aug 2011 at 9:03am

Hi Phil , i still not familiar with the granite sealing .

Marble Stains / Spots : A very, very sad day

Thu, 11 Aug 2011 08:43:42 UT

Author: jane-team
Subject: A very, very sad day
Posted: 11 Aug 2011 at 8:43am

He is a great man, we will miss him .

Slate : About the chinese granite stone

Thu, 11 Aug 2011 08:37:59 UT

Author: jane-team
Subject: About the chinese granite stone
Posted: 11 Aug 2011 at 8:37am

how do you think of chinese stone ?

Did you buy it from china?

General questions on all kinds of stones : beach stone and stains

Tue, 09 Aug 2011 03:49:02 UT

Author: revid
Subject: beach stone and stains
Posted: 09 Aug 2011 at 3:49am

I have a front porch that I did the floor with flat beach rock and was wondering how to tell what the rock is.Is it sandstone or limestone?I dont think its granite because its all grey color and not the typical multicolor of granite.Also the rock has the usual greenish stains of saltwater/algie and was wondering how to clean it.I bought some muratic acid and some TSP but haven't used either yet.IT also has some staining now from the black coloring that I used in the mortar mix,that I didn't think would stain.Any advice would help.Here are some pics and yes the project is still in the building stage.

General questions on all kinds of stones : river white granite absorbancy

Sat, 06 Aug 2011 09:53:19 UT

Author: chicagostonepro
Subject: river white granite absorbancy
Posted: 06 Aug 2011 at 9:53am

Hi airw,

I apologize for the late response.

That material is quite porous, as are venetian gold and bianco romano.

I know this material, and in fact, ran into the same situation you describe with it, where the fabricator sealed it with Stone Tech Bulletproof - and it didn't work.

Bulletproof is a great name, isn't it? It used to be a great sealer too - until DuPont bought the StoneTech, and changed Bulletproof into a water-base sealer. Now, it's overpriced garbage, imo.

Here's my hypothesis on this: Anything that resists water will block a water base sealer. That includes resin treatments, oil, wax, water itself, and especially any sealer of any type. Material that's got a lot of pores, or even a moderate amount of pores that happen to be big pores, require more than one sealer application. The big pores stuff can easily require three to five applications to layer in enough polymer spheres, silicone, fluorocarbon, etc.

The solvent in solvent base sealers disrupts weak sealer structure, and redistributes the active components into higher concentrations with subsequent applications. The water in water base sealers can't do this.

In the case I took care of, I used a product called Stain Proof, by DryTreat. It penetrated the Bulletproof, did it's work just fine. However, that product uses an entirely different process to protect the stone, and takes five days to develop initial oil resistance, with full protection developed on day 30. On River White, you can expect even water to get through it initially, if it sits on the stone during that first five day period.

You can use the stone - it will rapidly dry out - and you won't be smelling any solvent after the first hour or so, but the process takes its own time - walk on egg shells for 5 days, take care after that to clean any exposures right away, and relax after day 30. That's not license to never clean your stone, however.

So, in your testing, keep that five day period in mind. This is true of any sealer anyway - you always wait for the cure period before you can conduct a valid test of the protection.

Regards.

General questions on all kinds of stones : river white granite absorbancy

Thu, 28 Jul 2011 02:46:32 UT

Author: ajrw
Subject: river white granite absorbancy
Posted: 28 Jul 2011 at 2:46am

hi sorry i forgot to mention the color is river white, has now been sealed with 2 extra coats of sealer, some areas do not penetrate with water after 15 min and some do, should i apply more coats of sealer, it is called bulletproof sealer. i have not redone any tests except for the water test,
before the extra 2 coats of sealer were put on i tested , the coffee, oil, mustard, ketchup, bbq sauce and lemon juice test went like this, everything left a stain except for the lemon juice did not etch.
i do have an extra piece the fabricator left me for backsplash matching that i am using for testing.

General questions on all kinds of stones : river white granite absorbancy

Wed, 27 Jul 2011 11:19:20 UT

Author: chicagostonepro
Subject: river white granite absorbancy
Posted: 27 Jul 2011 at 11:19am

You don't say what the material is. Help us out here.

Name of material, and a link to a photo would help also.

As for sealers, they all have a cure time for the stuff to develop its full protection. How long depends on the formula, and 48 to 72 hours is not unusual.

Oil is usually the issue, not so much water, regarding the protection before the full cure time.

Looking forward to hearing more from you.

General questions on all kinds of stones : river white granite absorbancy

Mon, 25 Jul 2011 12:02:55 UT

Author: ajrw
Subject: river white granite absorbancy
Posted: 25 Jul 2011 at 12:02pm

just had my granite installed 2 days ago, was assured by the granite yard that this particular stone was as dense as a venetian gold or bianco romano, said we just do not have any problems with stains etc.
installer swears he sealed it, but within the first day I noticed any water drops or areas turned dark almost immediately within a minute or two.
I did not want a granite that I had to baby or worry about. although it is beautiful, I am very concerned.
do you know if this particular stone was a bad choice? will sealing with an impregnating sealer help? the installer is coming back out to put on some bulletproof sealer.
I am very upset as I trusted the seller of the granite for their knowledge and experience. they would not break a piece off for me as the slab was very small.
Please advise...thank you for your help.

Granite : Characteristics of White Pearl Quartzite

Tue, 19 Jul 2011 11:08:14 UT

Author: chicagostonepro
Subject: Characteristics of White Pearl Quartzite
Posted: 19 Jul 2011 at 11:08am

Hi Lisa, and welcome to the forums!

Could you post a link to a photo/example of this material? I can speculate generally, but a material can be called one thing in one locale, and an entirely different name somewhere else.

Quartzite is generally rather porous, though very hard relative to other stones in the "granite" family. Some of it seals up well. However, not everything labelled quartzite actually is.

Here in Chicago, I had fits with a white quartzite material called White Moon. The stuff was impossible to seal, but the problem wasn't the stone - it was the resin treatment. There's another white quartzite called Super White around here, that is also resin treated, looks like a white marble, is super hard - and which I've effectively sealed with no problem.

White Moon has a distinct linear direction to it. The Super White is actually light to medium gray, flows more random, has both veins and chunky characteristics. Here's an example of Super White.

The first shipments of this stuff really was quite white, hence the name. As you can see, it's not really white now, but light grey.

I have run across another material sold as quartzite that is absolutely beautiful, basically pure white with a crystalline structure. The importer claimed it to be quartzite, but I was able to scratch it with a razor blade, AND it etched severely from milk, apple juice, etc. The importer had sold many containers of the stuff across the U.S. and Canada before they found out the material was sensitive to food acids. This may be the material you have found.

The job was kitchen tops, and the importer sold this material as suitable for kitchens - so they had to pay us to remove and replace the job with material from another lot they claimed was better.

The replacement material was a darker lot, seemed to have more quartz content, didn't scratch nor etch as consistently - but still scratched and etched. In addition, the material was quite brittle - more so than the first lot, and a nightmare to fabricate and install. Lots of chips all over the place.

My guess is the material is a mix of albite, quartz, and calcite, and they've figured out a way to use plastic resin to retard some of the etching problems temporarily, at least until the customer's check has cleared - but the process doesn't always work so well. In any event, the material is beautiful garbage, and it's wrong to put this stuff in someone's life, with ludicrous claims that it's not going to etch or scratch. It's outright fraud to call this stuff quartzite or granite.

I don't have a picture of it for you, but my description above should be good enough.

In all cases, any material you consider should pass the lemon juice test. You cut a lemon into slices, and test samples of the slab, by pressing the slices onto the stone and leaving them there for a couple hours or overnight. If the stone is good, it won't matter how long you leave the lemon in place. Pull the lemon slices off, and see if the stone is lighter, or etched.

Always get pieces from the actual slab you are considering.

Looking forward to seeing a link to this material.

Regards.

Granite : Characteristics of White Pearl Quartzite

Mon, 18 Jul 2011 01:27:13 UT

Author: lisa0527
Subject: Characteristics of White Pearl Quartzite
Posted: 18 Jul 2011 at 1:27am

Hope someone can help with this. I'm looking at some very nice slabs of White Pearl Quartzite (labelled as granite, but pretty sure it's quartzite). Does anyone know the chemical and physical characteristics of White Pearl quartzite. Especially absorbency and whether it etches. I believe it is also called White Princess quartzite/granite.

Limestone : Limestone-burning plant (quick-lime)

Tue, 12 Jul 2011 12:41:56 UT

Author: mimoza
Subject: Limestone-burning plant (quick-lime)
Posted: 12 Jul 2011 at 12:41pm

Dear Sir/Madam,

I would be deeply grateful if you could provide information on the question below:

Question: What distance would be considered as appropriate between a limestone burning site and peoples' homes or settlement?

Many thanks in advance for your assistance. I look forward to your reply.
Yours faithfully,
Tina

Sandstone : paint on sandstone fireplace

Sun, 10 Jul 2011 04:54:09 UT

Author: jeff8252
Subject: paint on sandstone fireplace
Posted: 10 Jul 2011 at 4:54am

My wife and I just bought an historic home in az, however the last owners painted the sandstone fireplace green for some reason. how can we get this paint off the fireplace, and get it back to its original look....

Marble Stains / Spots : Marble Cleaning

Fri, 08 Jul 2011 11:32:49 UT

Author: thebuilderdepot
Subject: Marble Cleaning
Posted: 08 Jul 2011 at 11:32am

some good Marble cleaning method are given below:
1.Never use vinegar or other acid based products on your marble floors.
2.Marble is very delicate and must be cleaned with pH neutral, gentle cleaners.

Granite : Absolute Black "Antique" -- Should I seal??

Fri, 08 Jul 2011 00:59:53 UT

Author: chicagostonepro
Subject: Absolute Black "Antique" -- Should I seal??
Posted: 08 Jul 2011 at 12:59am

Hi Boston, and welcome to the forums!

The "antique" finish is basically controlled damage to the surface of the stone.

Sealing polished absolute black creates problems because the sealer has nowhere to absorb to, and you end up with a very thin topical coating that reacts to foods, water, etc, showing up as lighter rings, spots, clouds, haze. The antique finish is very different in that there actually IS somewhere for the sealer to go, and the surface is light enough that it's more forgiving of a little sealer on the surface, if your technique isn't quite right.

Your acid foods testing is looking for problems to show up as lighter, or grey. The oil testing is looking for problems to show up as darkness. You've determined the material does darken with oil - but does it really need sealing anyway?

I seal stone for a living, but my advice to you is to really make sure you need the sealer.

Typical sealer cure time is 48 to 72 hours. Read the bottle, and test after the cure period.

The sealer will darken the material just a bit, btw. Some folks don't want the stone darker, some do.

Get a decent stone cleaner, something mildly alkaline. MB Stonecare has a very good product for this. The link is at the top of the forum page. Forget about anything that says it's neutral pH, as those are not going to cut grease and oil very well. See if the cleaner takes care of the dark spots from the oil. If it does, NO need to seal.

Oil gets more viscous - more thick and sticky - the longer it stays in the stone. If the cleaner takes care of oil that's been on the material for say, five days, and you like the way the stone looks unsealed, no reason to seal it. Save your money, and just keep the stone clean.

If you want to darken the stone a bit, MB Stonecare (I know, I sound like a salesperson, but I don't make any money on their stuff - I just know their products work without causing other problems) has an enhancing sealer for this that works extremely well.

Regards.

Granite : Absolute Black "Antique" -- Should I seal??

Tue, 05 Jul 2011 20:52:40 UT

Author: ddboston
Subject: Absolute Black "Antique" -- Should I seal??
Posted: 05 Jul 2011 at 8:52pm

This is a pretty decent picture of what my stone mostly looks like... http://gstonesindia.com/images%5Cproducts%5Cgranites%5Cblack%5Clarge%5Cabsolute-black-antique.gif

Granite : Absolute Black "Antique" -- Should I seal??

Tue, 05 Jul 2011 20:39:25 UT

Author: ddboston
Subject: Absolute Black "Antique" -- Should I seal??
Posted: 05 Jul 2011 at 8:39pm

Dear Granite Gurus:

I have selected a granite slab for my new kitchen island. It is called ABS (Absolute) Black Antique and has has a significant texture to the touch. It is very dark and very dense.

The material is sold by a large outfit in Waltham, MA called "CounterEdge".
http://counteredge.com/

The dimensions are 72" x 28" and there are no cut-outs at all.

I was able to get a 6" x 4" piece knocked right out of the slab (its a remnant) and took it home for testing. I applied lime and lemon juice for 30 minutes and the juice WAS NOT absorbed and left a slight dark spot which was able to dissapear with a little warm water, it did not leave any permanent mark or dark spot. I then applied red wine, olive oil and more Lemon Juice (in three separate areas) and waited for 1 hour at room temperature. The olive oil did absorb and left a darkening. The Lemon and wine wiped clean and easy.

I am told that the slab is untreated and has not had any sealant.

I then cleaned the piece and sealed half the stone with Aqua Mix Sealers Choice Gold and applied 2 coats at 30 minutes intervals. After 24 hours, I tested the now sealed 1/2 side of the stone.

The sealant penetrated evenly and smoothly, did not alter the color at all, nor leave any residue that I could see.

I performed the same wine, lemon/lime, olive oil test by leaving all three substances on the now sealed stone for TWELVE (12) hours. And all three products were not absorbed and cleaned up VERY easily with warm water.

Any prior experience with this stone by anyone? I am torn, should I seal it or should I not?

So many people scream about Absolute Black HONED, this is NOT honed, this is Antique... any advice on this stone???

THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Boston, MA

Marble : new marble floor

Fri, 01 Jul 2011 15:36:57 UT

Author: thebuilderdepot
Subject: new marble floor
Posted: 01 Jul 2011 at 3:36pm

Thanks for sharing the information,its been really useful for me.

Marble : need of marble flooring

Fri, 01 Jul 2011 15:28:23 UT

Author: thebuilderdepot
Subject: need of marble flooring
Posted: 01 Jul 2011 at 3:28pm

From centuries, marble tiles have been a symbol of affluence, exuding sophistication and an air of artistry.Marbles increase beauty of floor,wall and entire residence.

Marble : White carrara marble

Fri, 01 Jul 2011 00:23:43 UT

Author: tororoma71
Subject: White carrara marble
Posted: 01 Jul 2011 at 12:23am

Thanks for your reply Phil, I had a feeling! Best to look for something new and fresh! Hope you have a good week!

Richard

Marble : choosing the right marble

Thu, 30 Jun 2011 17:08:59 UT

Author: stone_finder
Subject: choosing the right marble
Posted: 30 Jun 2011 at 5:08pm

I am considering Light Emperador Marble for Living Room. However for all the rooms I am thinking of going with Indian marble . Can anyone suggest as to what is it exactly that I need to look for before buying any marble ? Also I would like to know about any tests that can be performed before buying a marble in order to ensure its quality .

Marble : White carrara marble

Sat, 25 Jun 2011 21:48:52 UT

Author: chicagostonepro
Subject: White carrara marble
Posted: 25 Jun 2011 at 9:48pm

Welcome to the forums! Toronto is one of my favorite cities.

Unfortunately, the best chance to successfully refinish this is to take it to a shop with at least a radial arm polisher. Hand finishing this much countertop material in the field is possible, but there are two reasons I discourage this in general, and another reason specific to this material.

First, it's a messy process, involving lots of dust and/or slurry and water.

Second, it takes far less time to get a flat, even finish in the shop, on a machine. In addition, this takes a professional stone refinisher, not your average shop guy, to end up with that flat, even finish, so even if you find the right person, this will cost more onsite than in the shop, and you also may not get the same level of finish.

Finally, weathered building facade marble - in this case weathered for 30 years - has had its matrix structure weakened by freeze-thaw spalling and acid rain. This is why it's breaking away from its anchors and falling off the building. You'll likely find the panels are not flat anymore, but bowed like a wok.

This weathering damage means two things for your intended re-use application. First, the material is unstable, and probably shouldn't be used in a flat - horizontal - application, due to the risk of catastrophic failure. Second, the material is going to be chalky, flaky, and damaged to the point where it can't be finished consistently flat, and can't consistently hold a polish.

I understand the GC/Owner wants to get rid of the stuff, and therefore you have an apparent opportunity. I'd suggest instead that you look into renting a portable crusher - or rent time on someone's full sized crusher - and sell the stuff to a landscaper for decorative fill.

Regards.

Marble : White carrara marble

Sat, 25 Jun 2011 04:27:04 UT

Author: tororoma71
Subject: White carrara marble
Posted: 25 Jun 2011 at 4:27am

There is a building in the city I live (Toronto) that has the whole facade covered in Marble. Due to falling pieces and it being a safety risk this 30+ year old facade is being taken down.

I am able to reclaim this marble for practically nothing and have the idea of cutting this to size and putting it on top of my current countertop.

The problem is the marble is not smooth (due to being exposed to the Canadian elements for all of these years.)

Is there any way of polishing this down without having to send it into a marble shop?

Richard

Granite : Sealer turned pits in granite blue!

Fri, 17 Jun 2011 21:47:54 UT

Author: peggyc
Subject: Sealer turned pits in granite blue!
Posted: 17 Jun 2011 at 9:47pm

Hello, We just had new granite installed (golden oak) and there was one area with 5 or so pits that were whitish in color. When the granite was installed, they said it had already been sealed before they brough it (who knows if that was true). However, I noticed that when the chips were wet from water, they blended in much better. On a service call from the installer, he sealed our entire countertops again (or for the first time???) and the chips turned bright blue! Horrors! The installer just said, 'oh the sealer will dry' as if to say the blue would go away but it has not. Last night, we used acetone to lighten the bright blue to the current lavender gray color but what can I do to take this back to it's natural color? I have no idea what could have caused this and can't find any reference on the internet of this happening to anyone else. HELP!

Sandstone : mildew on crab orchard

Mon, 13 Jun 2011 10:48:00 UT

Author: adityarawat1985
Subject: mildew on crab orchard
Posted: 13 Jun 2011 at 10:48am

you can use stone detergents for this.
do not use acid based chemicals.

Sandstone : i want to stain sandstone

Mon, 13 Jun 2011 10:47:00 UT

Author: adityarawat1985
Subject: i want to stain sandstone
Posted: 13 Jun 2011 at 10:47am

You should seal the stone for more durable

Sandstone : Old Sandstone block as mantel

Mon, 13 Jun 2011 10:45:14 UT

Author: adityarawat1985
Subject: Old Sandstone block as mantel
Posted: 13 Jun 2011 at 10:45am

Sandstone is used as fire place.

But in the inner side of the sandstone use thermal insulation.

Sandstone : Sandstone for an outdoor kitchen counter top?

Mon, 13 Jun 2011 10:41:39 UT

Author: adityarawat1985
Subject: Sandstone for an outdoor kitchen counter top?
Posted: 13 Jun 2011 at 10:41am

you can use rainbow sandstone for counter tops.
It looks really nice.

But apply the sealer on it so that oils, stains can not make sandstone dirty.

Sandstone : Choice of Sandstone according to climate

Mon, 13 Jun 2011 10:35:53 UT

Author: adityarawat1985
Subject: Choice of Sandstone according to climate
Posted: 13 Jun 2011 at 10:35am

You can use any sandstone for cladding.

But after the cladding use the sealers.

Sandstone : Help, I didn't seal my sandstone before grouting

Mon, 13 Jun 2011 10:32:41 UT

Author: adityarawat1985
Subject: Help, I didn't seal my sandstone before grouting
Posted: 13 Jun 2011 at 10:32am

Hello,

You can use sandstone detergent for this.

Do not apply acid on it, as it will harm the sandstone.

If you need further clarification then you can contact me.

Sandstone : Indian Sandstone

Mon, 13 Jun 2011 10:26:16 UT

Author: adityarawat1985
Subject: Indian Sandstone
Posted: 13 Jun 2011 at 10:26am

Hello PJ,

I can solve your problem.

Please send me the affected tiles photos so that I can guide.

Sandstone : Indian Sandstone

Mon, 13 Jun 2011 10:22:47 UT

Author: adityarawat1985
Subject: Indian Sandstone
Posted: 13 Jun 2011 at 10:22am

Hi,
I can help you about all your sandstone problems.

What sandstone you have used ?

Please send me some photos of dirty sandstones.

I will give you the right solution for it.

Sandstone : Building with Sandstone

Wed, 01 Jun 2011 22:29:01 UT

Author: MJMcD
Subject: Building with Sandstone
Posted: 01 Jun 2011 at 10:29pm

Thanks for the very informative response. I am still in the planning stages of the project. Will I need fire brick to line the inside of the pit? I have read several accounts of stone exploding when faced with extreme temperatures.

Additionally, I would like to try to tackle this project myself and have read several books on masonry and working with stone, though admittedly this will be my first attempt. Are there any resources you could point me to or any tips I should be aware of? What type of mortar is best for this application? Do I need a concrete base or will several inches of compacted gravel provide enough support to avoid heaving (I live in Iowa)?

Sandstone : Building with Sandstone

Wed, 01 Jun 2011 06:03:01 UT

Author: DenverDsigner
Subject: Building with Sandstone
Posted: 01 Jun 2011 at 6:03am

Sandstone block for exterior applications is quite standard and for good reasons; its durability and beauty.

I specify sandstone walls, tile, pavers, flagging, and cladding mixed with quartzite, you name it. Although we love our Colorado climate, any outside material has to hold up to constant Winter freeze/thaw conditions. For this reason, sandstone is at the top of the list for exterior purposes.
Just think of how long that sandstone worked as the foundation for that house. A good mason can help you work wonders with new uses for your "reclaimed" material.

Sandstone : Building with Sandstone

Mon, 30 May 2011 18:17:56 UT

Author: Johnhudson7
Subject: Building with Sandstone
Posted: 30 May 2011 at 6:17pm

I think use Natural Sandstone Blocks for outdoor decoration. It improves elegance.

Marble : Marble maintenance nightmare

Thu, 26 May 2011 08:57:00 UT

Author: sturosen
Subject: Marble maintenance nightmare
Posted: 26 May 2011 at 8:57am

Hello Sorry for the delay-we were out working.
There are many companies and products to choose from.
A good ph neutral daily no rinse cleaner will do the trick. We like MB Stonecare Products but that would be bias I own the company.
Stu Rosen
www.stoneshine.com

Marble : Marble maintenance nightmare

Mon, 23 May 2011 04:31:52 UT

Author: CAPenney
Subject: Marble maintenance nightmare
Posted: 23 May 2011 at 4:31am

Thanks Stu,

Can you give me some examples of an appropriate cleaner? Or tell me what to look for on the label?

Travertine : Toilets in travertine

Mon, 23 May 2011 02:16:18 UT

Author: sturosen
Subject: Toilets in travertine
Posted: 23 May 2011 at 2:16am

Phils Right-sounds really gross.

Stu Rosen
www.stoneshine.com

General questions on all kinds of stones : Introducing myself as a new member!

Mon, 23 May 2011 02:13:27 UT

Author: sturosen
Subject: Introducing myself as a new member!
Posted: 23 May 2011 at 2:13am

Welcome to the forum
Stu Rosen
www.stoneshine.com

Marble : Marble maintenance nightmare

Mon, 23 May 2011 01:07:13 UT

Author: sturosen
Subject: Marble maintenance nightmare
Posted: 23 May 2011 at 1:07am

Sounds like good advice given by phil. Just to add one more thing to make your life easier by not using soap and water. It requires rinsing and soap will leave a residue that attracts soils like a magnet. Use a high quality ph neutral no rinse cleaner. You might want to invest in a small rotary floor machine that you can use with a nylon brush to do the scrubing. A wet vac will remove the soils and water from the floor. Stay off your hands and knees.
Stu Rosen
www.stoneshine.com

Granite : White marks in granite piece

Tue, 17 May 2011 10:51:26 UT

Author: chicagostonepro
Subject: White marks in granite piece
Posted: 17 May 2011 at 10:51am

3/8" is tile thickness. They cut a piece of tile.

They've tried to tell you that you have to take what they give you, because, well, this is the material they want you to accept.

WRONG.

You were sold an engraved black stone. You weren't sold an engraved black stone with white pockmarks, were you? Doesn't seem logical that you'd actually choose such a thing.

You can find solid black 18" x 18" tile for yourself that doesn't look pockmarked or polka-dotted. We all can. That goes double for a stone product distributor.

Reject that defective product. Get your money back, if they can't do their jobs right.

Regards.

Granite : White marks in granite piece

Mon, 16 May 2011 10:55:04 UT

Author: scarecrowcrying
Subject: White marks in granite piece
Posted: 16 May 2011 at 10:55am

Hi I dont know if this is the place to ask this or if anyone here can suggust anything. I recently had a memorial made for one of my pets that had passed. Its on a 3/8 piece of granite, 18 x 8 with a pic and letters engraved into the granite. I used the same company I used a couple yrs ago for the same type of thing so I know they do good work and is a very good business. Here is my delema.....and I need to know is there anything I can do.

There are alot of white marks in it....and not just flecks from the materail, but larger than specks..... white pieces missing all over. Thare are quite a few of them and it is very very noticable. I know the stone itself is not going to be perfect and may have a small flaw here and there, but there are quite a few in this one. The best way I can describe what it looks like is.....someone painted a slick surface black, it was almost dried, they set a piece of paper on top of it for a minute, took the paper off and took a few random dots and specks here and there of the paint off, then shalacked over it (dont know how to spell shell-ack, clear coat stuff).

I asked them about it and the response was this (which I believe and it makes since)

I assure you that it is just the natural stone. There is no way to correct or change it. The flecking (or white spots) are actually small pieces of quartz that are in the granite. There is no way to remove them, nor were they put there intentionally. There is no coating applied to the natural stone. After the granite is mined, it is cut and then buffed to a high shiney finish. When we lazer engrave the stone, all we are doing is removing the shiney surface of the stone bringing it back to the light gray unbuffed stone in the areas that we engrave. I wish that all of the black granite we use was always the same, but because it is a natural material, it all depends on where and when it was mined. Some veins have more quartz flecking in them than others and there is no way to guarantee a solid black surface. Every stone has guartz flecking in it to some degree or another, because all granite contains quartz.

I am sure my answer would be the same. I just wondered if there is anything at all I can do to "touch up" or make those marks daker at all? I am sure since they said no, there isnt, then there isn't. But ws hoping maybe someone had a trick.

Thanks

Marble : Marble maintenance nightmare

Sun, 24 Apr 2011 12:09:10 UT

Author: chicagostonepro
Subject: Marble maintenance nightmare
Posted: 24 Apr 2011 at 12:09pm

No need to strip it. In fact, you shouldn't strip it. Since the floor is new, and has a couple applications of Bulletproof on it, you can just vacuum it and seal it.

The floor needs to be dry for the application.

Regards.

Marble : Marble maintenance nightmare

Sat, 23 Apr 2011 22:39:27 UT

Author: CAPenney
Subject: Marble maintenance nightmare
Posted: 23 Apr 2011 at 10:39pm

Allrighty then! DryTreat followed by sealer. Will give it a try and just try to learn to live with the roughness. How should I clean before I start? I can just use a rug doc or is there a miserable day on my hands and knees with a scrub brush and some horrible stripper in my future?

Marble : Marble maintenance nightmare

Fri, 22 Apr 2011 08:35:24 UT

Author: chicagostonepro
Subject: Marble maintenance nightmare
Posted: 22 Apr 2011 at 8:35am

As to the friction, Dry Treat will not change that. I can't imagine your material is truly unfinished. It may be honed, or maybe "rustic", but it doesn't appear rustic.

Grinding will get rid of corners and edges sticking up, but won't change the physical properties of your material. Effective sealing will help with the mop, because water will remain on the surface to help the mop glide. Polymer type impregnating sealers will fill in the spaces between the grains, yet allow the material to breathe.

Dry Treat Stain Proof has a little polymer in it, to protect until the reaction is complete in 30 days.

Now do you see why I recommended you continue with Bulletproof, and give it two or three more applications? A polymer sealer that allows your stone to breathe will make your mopping easiest.

DryTreat Stainproof will prevent deep stains, but not embedded grime. If this is indeed sandstone, and it was my floor, I'd seal with DryTreat, wait 30 days, then seal with Bulletproof, or some other quality fluoropolymer sealer.

If anyone ever suggests crystalization, or vitrification, don't do it. It's a lousy process that introduces a mix of acid, wax, and plastic to your stone, and basically ruins your material.

Marble : Marble maintenance nightmare

Fri, 22 Apr 2011 08:15:31 UT

Author: chicagostonepro
Subject: Marble maintenance nightmare
Posted: 22 Apr 2011 at 8:15am

I think that company has no integrity - that's what I think.

Porcelain seal is for - wait for it- Porcelain. And glass.

It's also good for certain granites that have extremely fine pores.

Some granites have a mix of pore sizes, that include a moderate to significant percentage that are pretty fine, and in those cases, you go with Stain Proof initially, then layer over that with Porcelain seal. Professionals do this because it's a waste of money to run Porcelain seal on large pores, particularly since professionals normally have both products on hand, to play with.

Sandstone is fused sand. The structure is less like tunnels or pores, and more like spaces between chunks of gravel. It's very open. You do not use Porcelain seal on such a structure.

Maybe Sealing Products Direct has a different opinion as to what your material is. However, Porcelain Seal is a waste of money on sandstone.

If you told them you have sandstone, they're not being honest with you. They're just trying to get more of your money.

So, what makes me so knowledgeable about these two Dry Treat products - besides direct experience? I was personally trained and certified by the manufacturer, Dry Treat Australia, by their foremost international certifier for these products.

If I choose to, I can issue the manufacturer's 15 year guarantee certificate. I choose not to, because there's no perfect world, and there's no substitute for a consumer doing their part - which doesn't happen if they think they don't have to clean their stone for 15 years.

Sorry about my tone. I get ticked off when I perceive an unwitting consumer is getting taken advantage of, and I think this company is trying to sell you a very good and very pricey product that you simply don't need.

Don't buy the Porcelain Seal.

Marble : Marble maintenance nightmare

Thu, 21 Apr 2011 21:01:56 UT

Author: CAPenney
Subject: Marble maintenance nightmare
Posted: 21 Apr 2011 at 9:01pm

Sealing Products Direct recommends I apply a Porcelain Sealer on top of the Dry Treat....what do you think of that?

http://www.sealingproductsdirect.com/Product-Porcelain-Sealer.htm

Marble : Marble maintenance nightmare

Thu, 21 Apr 2011 20:47:38 UT

Author: CAPenney
Subject: Marble maintenance nightmare
Posted: 21 Apr 2011 at 8:47pm

I can't thank you enough for all your info.

I did find Dry Treat on the web for purchase. It sounds good re: keeping it clean, but the site does say that it "maintains the surface texture and friction with no surface film". So I am willing to try it if is keeps it cleaner, but if the friction is still a significant problem and I want to try some kind of coating, then I am guessing I am SOL, as it says it is permanent, correct?

Water Stains : Granite installed in Kitchen

Thu, 21 Apr 2011 19:49:54 UT

Author: chicagostonepro
Subject: Granite installed in Kitchen
Posted: 21 Apr 2011 at 7:49pm

Hi Kalula,

The original post is from 2006, and makes no mention of Chinese stone, nor does it say it's black.

Water Stains : Granite installed in Kitchen

Thu, 21 Apr 2011 15:11:25 UT

Author: kalula-china
Subject: Granite installed in Kitchen
Posted: 21 Apr 2011 at 3:11pm

Yes. You are right. There are many black granite in the world. In china, there are different black granite due to the quarry located in different palce. it is very easy to make wrong decision just from small samples.

I suggest you can buy it from professional supplier in china. They will give you professional suggestion according to your usage and requirment. it is very important for you.

If you like, you can sent email to me and we can have a good talk about it.

we email address is: removed by moderator. I would like to share with you about the granite and marble information with you. I hope you can buy good product from china

Edited by chicagostonepro - 21 Apr 2011 at 7:50pm

Water Stains : Granite installed in Kitchen

Thu, 21 Apr 2011 15:04:50 UT

Author: kalula-china
Subject: Granite installed in Kitchen
Posted: 21 Apr 2011 at 3:04pm

Hi friend

I am very sad to hear that you buy bad granite countertop from china.

In china, there are manydifferent black granite and the quarry is in different place. But they has a same name: China Black. Some of the black stone is not suitable for granite countertop for its quarry is not stable and the surface with crack, color line and speck. We usually take the hebei Black and Shanxi Black for granitecountertop and export to USA. Next time,you can ask your supplier select the quarry from hebei or shanxi.Before loading the goods, you can sent QC to check the goods. At last is the packing, the black granite is very easy to scracth on transportation so the inner packing is very important. It must with floam plastic from piece to piece (aslo including from the countertop to splach).If you need, you can get me your email address and i can sent some picture for you.

I hope you can buy good product from china. The quality of Granite in China is very good.

Marble : Marble maintenance nightmare

Thu, 21 Apr 2011 09:57:14 UT

Author: chicagostonepro
Subject: Marble maintenance nightmare
Posted: 21 Apr 2011 at 9:57am

You haven't really exhausted Bulletproof yet. Like I posted earlier, if this really is sandstone, I'm not surprised it isn't working after two applications. You can call DuPont/Stonetech customer service, and ask for advice on sealing sandstone, for their take on this.

I'm sure you'll get some tips on application technique, maybe an alternative product in their line, along with a pitch to keep it clean with some product that includes sealer - which I do NOT recommend. I see no reason for consumers to be exposed to sealer chemicals every time they clean their stone. IMO that's not just unnecessary, it's insane. You may pick up some other info from them that makes sense to you, however.

It's not unusual for highly porous material to require three applications of sealer. Stone that is especially difficult to seal either has very large pores, or a prodigious volume of very fine pores. The problem folks run into is this: A thick sealer that works well on the first would probably not work at all on the second. The converse is also true.

In the case of sandstone, you have tremendous pore volume. This material has both huge pore size, and an incredible number of pores. You can end up sealing this one five or six times to build up protection, even with a fluorocarbon sealer.

I'm quite familiar with StoneTech products. For years I used StoneTech Impregnator Pro (solvent base) almost exclusively, because it was the first and best product to combine three distinct sealer approaches - silicone, silane, fluorocarbon - and it worked quite well on a large number of materials. Unfortunately, DuPont has reformulated it, and now it utilizes only the fluorocarbon element, and the new formula is too thick to be used on much of what I seal.

You already know I used to use Bulletproof extensively, as well. I've also used HMK S34, silicone penetrating sealer, and on commercial stone furniture, also a silicone paste wax.

I don't really like paste wax. It has it's place, I suppose, and this may be one, but I have serious reservations about closing off the pores with wax. It changes the look of the material, and puts you on a more intensive maintenance regime, which can be problematic, but more importantly, closing off the stone sets it up for deterioration.

Here's a sealer that I know handles sandstone: DryTreat StainProof. Here's what you need to know about it - it reduces the pore size without depending on polymer. This is great for long lasting protection, BUT, your stone isn't being dressed with polymer, which means the stone's surface texture is available to bond grime. Your stone can become grimy, dull, dirty looking, appearing to be stained over time - and the solution usually involves lots of elbow grease and chlorine bleach.

Sounds like granite stain remediation, doesn't it? It's technically not, but try to tell a customer that, without looking like a liar.

Most "granite" is not really granite. More and more "granite" can actually be damaged by chlorine bleach, which is so alkaline it's caustic. More and more "granite" is also sensitive to acids. Best to avoid the need to do this kind of cleaning on a regular basis. This is why I recommend DryTreat Stain Proof, followed by annual maintenance sealing with something like Impregnator Pro, to keep the stone surface easy to clean with simple, basic, stone cleaner.

I don't sell sealers. You can find these products online, but you may have some trouble getting your hands on the solvent base sealers that really work best. It's worth a shot, though.

For now, you should go back to the Bulletproof, and see if you can get the job done with that, first. DryTreat Stain Proof is engineered to get through other sealers, so if you're not happy with the Bulletproof, nothing to worry about. I've effectively used Stain Proof to seal over failed Bulletproof a number of times. Just had another one two weeks ago, in fact.

Regards.

Marble : Marble maintenance nightmare

Wed, 20 Apr 2011 20:05:52 UT

Author: CAPenney
Subject: Marble maintenance nightmare
Posted: 20 Apr 2011 at 8:05pm

Hi Phil,

The floor is laid in a house on Lake Superior, north of Duluth MN. What sealer do you recommend? Do you sell something I could pick up and apply myself? What do you think of paste wax?

Marble : new marble floor

Wed, 20 Apr 2011 16:23:02 UT

Author: matilda157
Subject: new marble floor
Posted: 20 Apr 2011 at 4:23pm

Thanks for sharing.You wouldnt say how some websites are helpful source of informations like this one.
Thanks

Edited by chicagostonepro - 20 Apr 2011 at 4:47pm

Marble : Marble maintenance nightmare

Wed, 20 Apr 2011 12:59:27 UT

Author: chicagostonepro
Subject: Marble maintenance nightmare
Posted: 20 Apr 2011 at 12:59pm

Hi Christine,

I didn't mean to imply you shouldn't mention the subfloor, in fact, I'm glad you did. My intention was to flag a problem that has nothing to do with your concern, but you should be considering in your decision making.

I don't have a snapfish account, and the way this is linked, it wants me to login or sign up to view, however from the album cover shot, it appears you have sandstone.

Sandstone can be a real pain to mop, particularly if the surface isn't finely honed. Even then, it's not particularly fun. Also, if the installation isn't really flat, corners will stick up, and also catch your mop.

Sandstone is tough to seal with most sealers. Bulletproof was reformulated to a water base awhile back, and I quit using it, because it lost much of it's effectiveness. Could be it's not able to seal this stone. Could also be you just need to seal it a time or two more. I'm not surprised it fails after two applications.

I used to buy stuff from Tile Outlet years ago. Good stuff sometimes. Out of curiosity, if you live in the Chicago area, why are you looking at a company from Minneapolis to grind the floor? If you want someone local, I can hook you up with a quality guy. If interested, contact me through my website.

Regards.

General questions on all kinds of stones : Introducing myself as a new member!

Wed, 20 Apr 2011 07:16:34 UT

Author: stevep
Subject: Introducing myself as a new member!
Posted: 20 Apr 2011 at 7:16am

Hello FindStone Members

I am Steve and joined this forum with the aim to get some guidance and suggestions regarding my business. I have a granite and marble business and do DIY kitchens too.

I am here to share my knowledge about these natural stones that increase the elegance of every home. I would like to get advice from the fellow members about whats new and whats going on in the stone industry.

If i can be any help for the members to know more about the stocks i have, please do write to me.

Thanks

Granite : Granite

Wed, 20 Apr 2011 07:14:21 UT

Author: stevep
Subject: Granite
Posted: 20 Apr 2011 at 7:14am

You can even post images here as we have an "insert image" option in the posting editor.We may help you to find our what kind of discoloring it is if you can see the images. It may be the sealer as far as i guess since granite cannot show there properties. let us have your pictures so that we can suggest more appropriately.

Marble : Marble maintenance nightmare

Tue, 19 Apr 2011 21:34:58 UT

Author: CAPenney
Subject: Marble maintenance nightmare
Posted: 19 Apr 2011 at 9:34pm

http://www1.snapfish.com/earthlink/thumbnailshare/AlbumID=3814271016/a=9478821_9478821/otsc=SHR/otsi=SALBlink/COBRAND_NAME=earthlink/

Link for the pictures. I just have a point and shoot, so they are not very good. I include a picture of the fireplace with the same marble as it is easier to see the texture and grain. I have a friend who is a pro photographer who could take some close-ups if necessary.

I don't know that the marble had a name. I got it at the Tile Outlet on Fullerton. It is grouted and there is about 250 sq ft.

I know the subfloor is irrelevant to the problem. I thought it may be pertinent if some kind of coating is suggested. The most frequent suggestion is to have it polished, which requires heavy machinery. Most folks who suggest this want to know what the subfloor is.

But just fyi, the sub floor is 8" wide 3/4 douglas fir planks laid diagonally; 1/2 plywood on top, screwed through both into the joists with 3 inch screws with Ditra XL. Advance Terrazo in Minneapolis indicated it was fine to support their machines. Regardless, that option is not really possible unless I win the lottery and I don't even buy tickets.

Granite : Granite

Tue, 19 Apr 2011 07:16:36 UT

Author: chicagostonepro
Subject: Granite
Posted: 19 Apr 2011 at 7:16am

Hi Jan,

You can post the pics on a photosharing site, such as photobucket, or snapfish, and post the link here.

The Tenax glue, was that for the joints?

What sort of discoloring? Is it splotchy or uniform? Is it getting lighter, or actually discoloring?

Marble : Marble maintenance nightmare

Tue, 19 Apr 2011 07:07:57 UT

Author: chicagostonepro
Subject: Marble maintenance nightmare
Posted: 19 Apr 2011 at 7:07am

A picture is worth a thousand words. You can put pictures up on a photosharing site like photobucket, or snapfish, and post the link here.

In the meantime, what's the name of the material? Is it grouted? How many square feet?

I'm not comfortable with your subfloor. This has nothing to do with your stated problem, but 1/2" plywood is never subfloor rated. It delaminates, deflects, doesn't hold screws well, and is not dimensionally stable.

Yes, I noted your 5/8" diagonal plank subfloor. Planking is not dimensionally stable. You're trying to create a stable subfloor with unstable materials that are not suited to supporting a tile floor.

Ditra XL will protect your tile from lateral movement, not horizontal. You had to screw the plywood to the planking. The problem I've seen with this, the planking movement isn't uniform, and can cause the subfloor system to try to curl - resulting in horizontal displacement. 1/2" plywood can't possibly resist the movement of the thicker, stronger, less stable solid plank.

Please tell me the plank is not a hardwood floor.

Looking forward to your response, and pictures.

Granite : Granite

Tue, 19 Apr 2011 04:19:05 UT

Author: Jansnoad
Subject: Granite
Posted: 19 Apr 2011 at 4:19am

We have installed, approx 18mths ago, a honed Black Pearl granite fireplace surround and hearth around a wood fire and there is now some discolouring at the joins. We used tenax glue and sealer. Have you any idea what's causing the discolouring at the joins? I have pictures but don't know how to get them onto this page.
I can email them if anyone wants to see them.

Thanks Jan
Regency Stone
NZ

Marble : Marble maintenance nightmare

Tue, 19 Apr 2011 02:10:35 UT

Author: CAPenney
Subject: Marble maintenance nightmare
Posted: 19 Apr 2011 at 2:10am

I have a installed a "raw" marble floor. I don't know how else to describe it. There has bee no polishing of the surface at all. That was why I liked it. It is a sandstone color with veins of brown running throughout (stunning).

I installed over a heated full basement on Ditra XL on top of 1/2 plywood over 5/8" diagonal plank subfloor. I sealed it with two thorough coats of DuPont Bullet Proof. My problem is that is it a maintenance nightmare. I wanted to damp mop with a marble cleaner but the surface is so rough, it ripped the sponge right of the mop the first time I tried. Even though sealed, it soaks up moisture like a sponge. To clean it at all requires that I soak it thoroughly with cleaner (I use a mild soap and water combo) and scrub it on hands and knees with a linoleum brush and then vacuum or sponge up the water. Ack.

I don't really want to lose the matte natural surface and like that it is not slippery, but cannot bear this cleaning regime. I considered hiring a pro to polish the entire thing, but the closest is 154 miles away, making that cost prohibitive. A secondary issue is the roughness. It feels like fine sand, a lovely texture, but it rips the felt pads right off the bottom of the furniture. I am considering paste wax overall to reduce the roughness and make cleaning a reasonable process.Are there any options

Marble Stains / Spots : Blotches Riddle

Tue, 19 Apr 2011 00:32:32 UT

Author: chicagostonepro
Subject: Blotches Riddle
Posted: 19 Apr 2011 at 12:32am

I don't know why you'd seal the back of the tiles. At any rate, sealers can take 72 hours to establish full effectiveness. One I work with actually takes five days for initial effectiveness.

I hope you really did NOT install this directly on plywood. That's not a good installation method.

If the blotches are water, they're likely not stains, but just moisture from the thinset. This can take a week or two to dry out. I imagine you also sealed the face of the tile, and that slows down any vapor transmission - extending the drying time for any moisture from the installation.

Without pictures, based on your description, I recommend waiting this out. Don't throw more sealer or enhancer on this. You'll be setting yourself up for a huge headache. Don't try to clean this.

The only thing you can do, is set up a fan to move air. That can help a little.

Post a link to a picture, if you can.

Regards.

Marble Stains / Spots : Blotches Riddle

Mon, 18 Apr 2011 19:55:54 UT

Author: rmjvcb
Subject: Blotches Riddle
Posted: 18 Apr 2011 at 7:55pm

I have installed a 12"x 24" marble on a wall in a spa. Immediately after
installation some blotching seems to be showing through some of the tiles. These blotches seem like water stains coming from behind.

We used a thin set cement and also sealed the back of the tiles and the
problem has only occurred on a few of the tiles. The tiles were also climatized and installed on plywood and grouted three days after install.
Humidity is not an issue.

The blotches seem to be fading very very slowly but are taking too long.

Should they be left to fade away over time? How long?
Will a cleaner solve the problem?
Will an enhancer solve the problem and make them disappear?

Travertine : Toilets in travertine

Mon, 18 Apr 2011 18:35:05 UT

Author: cf-ost7
Subject: Toilets in travertine
Posted: 18 Apr 2011 at 6:35pm

Hi Phil,

I really appreciate your comments as I have no idea about what to expect with this very eye-pleasing item but maybe not the most practical ones.

Thank you for taking the time to post a reply.

Corinne

General questions on all kinds of stones : Monument Supplier: HQ Stone from Xiamen China

Sat, 16 Apr 2011 08:43:17 UT

Author: chicagostonepro
Subject: Monument Supplier: HQ Stone from Xiamen China
Posted: 16 Apr 2011 at 8:43am

Maisie Du,

Your posts so far are not appropriate for inclusion in these forums. These forums exist to answer primarily consumer questions.

So far, all you've done is try to advertise. All advertising is done via the main site, http://findstone.com.

You are welcome to contribute your stone expertise to help consumers on this site, by answering their questions and concerns. All IP addresses are logged. If you continue to attempt irrelevant advertising posts, your user account will be suspended, and your IP address will be banned.

Regards.

General questions on all kinds of stones : Monument Supplier: HQ Stone from Xiamen China

Sat, 16 Apr 2011 07:46:24 UT

Author: hengquan228
Subject: Monument Supplier: HQ Stone from Xiamen China
Posted: 16 Apr 2011 at 7:46am

We:HQ STONE is a member of MBNA (Monument Builders of America).

We own professional monument factories in many areas of China,which have passed ISO 9001:2000 International Quality System Certificates.
Our monuments with top quality and competitive price are popular in America, Western Europe, Russia, Ukraine, Australia, New Zealand and many other countries over the world.

Purchasing from us can simply your purchasing process while ensuring that you get the best prices, premium quality and outstanding service.

Kindly find attachment our monument brochure for your ref. pls.

Edited by chicagostonepro - 16 Apr 2011 at 8:23am

Travertine : Toilets in travertine

Sat, 16 Apr 2011 06:25:58 UT

Author: chicagostonepro
Subject: Toilets in travertine
Posted: 16 Apr 2011 at 6:25am

Sounds gross to me.

Will it reliably hold water? I imagine that depends on the pore structure of the unit you end up with, and how well the filler holds up over time. That goes double for the area of the wax ring seal. I imagine it will work just fine when you first install it.

I have doubts about the durability of such a fixture, though.

However, how to clean it? Bleach and toilet cleaners actually destroy calcareous stone, such as travertine. Ever see an etched stone finish that's been exposed to household dirt and grime? It looks terrible.

Etching the finish gives bacteria, mold, yeast a lot more surface area to hold onto and hide in.

Sorry, but even though I really like the look of travertine, the idea of a travertine toilet just doesn't "sit" well with me.

Regards.

General questions on all kinds of stones : 1889 Fireplace is it Granite or Marble

Fri, 15 Apr 2011 22:17:46 UT

Author: chicagostonepro
Subject: 1889 Fireplace is it Granite or Marble
Posted: 15 Apr 2011 at 10:17pm

Hi Rose,

You are doing the right thing by looking for info BEFORE doing anything. You now know you are dealing with limestone, which is chemically sensitive, so you must protect the fireplace from acids, and strong alkali, until you are ready to move forward.

By moving forward, I mean getting an expert to personally check the fireplace, before you do anything, including cleaning it. You need a stone restoration expert, preferably experienced in antique fireplaces, to evaluate this for you, and to put the fireplace into a restored condition you can maintain.

There's paint on it. There may be some paint stripper in the stone that needs to be neutralized. You have some deep staining on the lighter stone, that looks to me like yellowed flooring wax or poly. Some of the black limestone looks like it's got wax on it too, or possibly some other coating. There may be acid in the stone that needs to be neutralized, due to smoke exposure.

The hearth has been patched from the firebox out, with cement, and the broken tile could be showing a problem with the substrate. The cement patch may or may not be too alkaline, corrosive to the stone, and the tile substrate. Best to completely remove the tile, fix any problem with the substrate, and set new tile. You may be able to save some of the existing tile, but I don't think it's original to this fireplace, and may not be worth saving.

Each of these issues requires specific technical knowledge and experience to resolve. Failure with any one of these can mean your fireplace is ruined beyond repair. It's already in a bad condition due to neglect and poor care, which may limit a successful outcome - even in the hands of an expert.

I understand you don't want to spend money unnecessarily on this project, and I'd love to tell you you can largely handle this - but I can't. It's necessary to spend money for expert care here. What you have here requires special attention, unless you are prepared to take the chance of ruining it.

IMO, it's just too special a fireplace to take the chance on.

For a referral, you can contact Stu Rosen, at the MB Stonecare link above (the one with Maurizio pointing at you, at the top of the forum page). MB Stonecare supplies maintenance and restoration products, and Stu is an experienced stone restorer/refinisher. He has contacts around the U.S. and in various countries, and teaches stone refinishing/restoration. If Stu isn't in your area, he can point you in the right direction.

Regards.