FISH IS FUN

Fish : Playing the fish

noreply@blogger.com (naimtamat) — Sat, 05 Sep 2009 15:40:00 +0000

When a fish feels the hook, it struggles to get free. This might involve jumping, making a long run, swimming back against the line or swimming around obstacles. Each species of fish fights differently.

Fish hooked in shallow water are more likely to jump and behave more frantically than those hooked in deep water. Deep-water fish often seek the bottom.

It's possible to land many small fish just by reeling them in. They'll fight, but they aren't as strong as the line and the rod. Use lighter tackle and you can get some fight out of the smallest fish in the lake.

If you're catch and release fishing, don't fight too long or the fish will die from exhaustion before or after you release it.

Fighting Bigger Fish

Setting the Drag

If a fish makes a run for it, don't panic. And don't try to reel in while the fish is swimming away from your line. Relax and let the drag and rod do the work. After you've set the hook, set your drag. If you're using 12-pound test, you should use about 4 pounds of drag. Just keep the rod at about a 45-degree angle to the water aim it straight at the fish.

When the fish slows down and stops taking more line, it's time to go to work. The best technique for the catch is to gently pull the rod up and then reel down as you lower it, using a pumping motion. Do it in small, smooth strokes rather than large abrupt sweeps because it will help keep both the line tight and the fish much calmer.

If the fish runs again, let it go and you will probably notice that this run is shorter and slower. But don't let the fish rest. If you can't hear your drag working, you should be reeling.

Don't be anxious. Even if you get the fish close to the boat, that doesn't mean it's done fighting. If it turns and runs, let it go. Your line is pretty short at this point, and pump-and-reel action could break it.

Fish : Fishing Safety

noreply@blogger.com (naimtamat) — Thu, 03 Sep 2009 04:49:00 +0000

Fishing isn't a dangerous sport, but you should prepare to be safe and comfortable in the outdoors. It is possible to get caught unexpectedly in bad weather, encounter insects, spend too much time in the sun, or get caught on a fish hook.

Wearing the proper clothing helps to protect you from injury. It also keeps you warm in cold weather and cool in hot weather. Rainwear and other gear keep you from getting wet and chilled.

Safety Around Water

Anglers should learn how to swim and use caution around water at all times. You should always use the "buddy system" and have a friend or an adult with you in case something goes wrong.

Personal Flotation Devices (PFDs)

Personal Flotation Devices (PFDs), also called life jackets and life vests, are not just for wearing in boats. Anytime you are on or around deep or fast moving water, you should wear a PFD. U.S. Coast Guard and/or state laws require you to have an approved PFD when you are in a boat, and that a boat must carry one PFD for each passenger on board. Certain types of boats must also have a cushion or ring that can be thrown to a person in the water.

Wading

There are several rules you should follow for safe wading.

1. Always wade with another person.
2. Always wear your PFD.
3. Know how deep the water is.
4. Know how strong the current is.
5. Know what the bottom is like by checking with a stick or staff. Shuffle your feet along the bottom to avoid holes.

While wading you can protect your ankles by wearing high-top shoes or wading boots. Long, lightweight pants can protect you from jellyfish and sea nettles in saltwater and from snags and rocks in freshwater.

Reach-Throw-Row-Go

Reach-throw-row-go is a method of rescuing a person who falls overboard or an angler or swimmer in trouble.

The first safety step is to REACH out with an oar, tree limb or other long object if the person is close to you. If you can't reach the person, THROW them a life-saving device. This can be a boat cushion or ring. Tie it to the end of a line so that it helps you pull the person to safety. If a cushion or ring isn't available, throw in anything that floats: plastic coolers, ski belts or even beach balls can be used in an emergency.

If there is nothing to throw, ROW a boat to the person in trouble. Ideally, take someone else with you to help pull the person out of the water. The person should be pulled in over the stern, or back, of the boat. If the boat has a motor, shut it off before you attempt any water rescue. Don't let the person try to climb in over the side of a small boat, it can tip the boat over. Instead, pull the victim over the stern, or back, of the boat. If the boat is small, you can also have the victim hang onto the gunwales, and tow him to shore.

Swim out to save the person in trouble ONLY as a last resort and ONLY if you are an experienced lifeguard or have had life-saving training. Going into the water after someone is in trouble is dangerous. People who are drowning often panic and injure or even drown someone trying to rescue them. Going quickly for help is often the best choice.

Swimming

If you fish, you should know how to swim for your own safety. Many young anglers like to go for a swim during a fishing trip just for fun or to cool off. Don't swim if there is any doubt about your ability. Never dive into the water of an unknown area and don't swim in cold water or after a heavy meal. Finally swim only when an experienced swimming partner is with you.

Safety with Fishing Equipment

Handle your fishing equipment responsibly. Look behind you before you cast to make sure your hook will not get caught on a power line, tree or person. To avoid accidents, don’t leave your tackle lying on the ground. Someone can trip on it, step on a hook or break your equipment.

Take caution and use long-nose pliers to help remove hooks from a fish. If a hook is deep inside the fish, either cut off the line and leave the hook in the fish, or use a hook disgorger. Hooks left in fish will work themselves free or rust out.

When transporting your equipment, remove the hook or lure from the line and store it in your tackle box.

Fish : When to Fish?

noreply@blogger.com (naimtamat) — Fri, 28 Aug 2009 14:58:00 +0000

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Spring Turnover

Once the ice is out, the water on the surface of a lake starts to warm. When it reaches 39 degrees it begins to sink and is replaced by cooler water from below. This exchange continues until the water temperature is constant in the entire lake. Early in this process, fish will stay in the shallow areas of the lake where the water warms up faster, and where the first plant growth of the spring occurs.

Summer Stagnation

During the summer, the sun heats water near the surface of lakes, but it doesn't sink. Eventually a condition known as "stratification" develops, putting a well-defined warm layer of water over a cool one.

Fish like the cooler water, but they also need the higher oxygen levels found in warmer water. So they'll migrate to an area right between the two levels of water called the thermo cline. The thermo cline can occur between 2 and 10 feet in depth, depending on the size of the lake.

It's best to find a point or some other form of structure that extends out from the shoreline and slopes gradually down into the thermo cline. This should be a place where fish can find warmer water, but have quick access to deeper, cooler and safer water.

Fall Turnover

With the arrival of fall and cooler air temperatures, water at the surface of lakes cools, becoming almost as heavy as the cooler bottom water. Strong autumn winds move surface water around, which promotes mixing with deeper water. This is fall turnover.

As mixing continues, lake water becomes more uniform in temperature and oxygen level, allowing fish to move around freely. Fish can be difficult to find as long as these conditions prevail, usually continues until the weather turns cold, chilling the lake's surface.

Water Temperature and Turnover

Each fish has a different range of water temperature in which it can survive. Although fish cannot always find the exact temperature they prefer, they are usually found in water close to that temperature.

By combining a knowledge of preferred water temperature and lake turnover, you can kind-of-sort-of predict which fish will be in a particular part of a lake at a particular time of the year.

Fish that like warmer water will be surface feeders in the summer and bottom feeders in the fall. And fish that like cooler water will feed deep in the spring and on the surface in the fall. But don't hold us to this. Fish are always tough to catch.

Fish : When to Fish?

noreply@blogger.com (naimtamat) — Sun, 23 Aug 2009 05:38:00 +0000

Time of Day/Season Sequencer/Turnover/Temp by Species

Spring/Early Morning

Fish aren't biting. The water is cold and doesn't heat up because the sun is low and the rays bounce off the water. But don't go home yet, because winter is over and fish are hungry and spawning. Best to wait until a week or so after thaw, as spring turnover takes time for the water temperature to even out to 39.2 degrees.

Spring/Late Morning-Early Afternoon

Fish are biting off and on. The water begins to warm up because rays begin to penetrate the water. Remember to fish the downwind shoreline, as the winds will push the warmer surface water along with surface food into that area.

Spring/Afternoon-Early Evening

Fish are eating a lot because their metabolism and digestion are cranked. Water is warm because the sun is directly overhead.

Summer/Early Morning-Late Afternoon

Fishing is excellent from before sunup to just before mid-morning. At this time of year there is abundant food and cover for fish, so finding hungry fish can be a challenge.

Summer/Late Morning-Early Afternoon

Fishing is poor for most of the day. Fish move to deep water to cool off.

Summer/Afternoon-Early Evening

Fishing is excellent from early sundown until dark as the waters cool and fish rise up from the depths.

Fall/Early Morning

Fish aren't biting much from sunup to early morning. The water is cool because the sun is too low to penetrate the water.

Fall/Late Morning-Noon

Fish are biting off and on in warmer, shallow water. The water is generally cool due to the season.

Fall/Afternoon-Early Evening

Fishing is excellent. Sun is directly overhead for several hours and the water gets more comfortable near the surface. This makes for seasonally good fishing because fish are putting on weight for the winter. Look for bait schools where bigger fish are more likely to be.

Seasonal Lake Turnover

Turnover refers to the exchange of surface and bottom water in a lake or pond. This annual recycling program happens twice a year. There's spring turnover and fall turnover and summer stagnation in between. From spring to fall, warmer water goes from the top of the lake to the bottom and cooler water moves from the bottom to the top.

An understanding of turnover, combined with knowledge of what kind of water a particular fish likes, can make you a real fishing genius. As always, good luck.

Fish : Other Tips

noreply@blogger.com (naimtamat) — Sat, 22 Aug 2009 15:42:00 +0000

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Steaking

A large fish is often cut across the body into thick steaks. First clean the fish and skin or scale, if necessary (salmon steaks are often prepared with the skin still on). Before steaking, chill the fish or put it in a freezer until it is partly stiff for easier cutting.

Cut through the body working from the tail toward the head. Make each steak from 1/2-inch to 1-inch thick. After steaking, trim away any belly fat or bones you can see, but not the backbone.

Tips, Tricks, and Warnings for Cleaning Fish

Fish fins can be very sharp and cause serious puncture wounds.
Some exotic fish can be toxic if not prepared properly, like puffer fish.
Some fish are too bony or strong flavored to be considered edible.
Some fish have very sharp teeth, be careful if you're holding a fish by the head during cleaning.
Research the area you're fishing to determine if the fish are safe to eat, some bodies of water are polluted with mercury and other heavy metals that fish absorb.
Lakes, ponds and streams are the best place to catch fish for eating because they're usually fed and drained by a larger contributing river or underground spring.

Fish : Cleaning Your Fish

noreply@blogger.com (naimtamat) — Fri, 21 Aug 2009 14:06:00 +0000

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Scaling

Scaling Fish

Scale the fish on a flat surface using one hand to hold it by the head. Rake the scales from the tail toward the head with a fish scaler or a large spoon. Remove the scales on both sides of the body.

Fish with very fine scales, like flounder, take a great deal of patience to clean. Take your time—some people are very sensitive to getting scales in their mouth while eating.

Skinning

Removing the skin improves the taste of many fish. It also removes a layer of fat just under the skin. Catfish, bullheads and other bottom-feeding fish are usually skinned.

Hold the catfish by its head firmly on a flat surface with a clamp—it's a good idea to snip off the spines before skinning.
Cut through the skin behind the head and pectoral fins.
Use pliers to remove the skin from the body, pulling from the head toward the tail.
Grasp the head of the fish with one hand and the body with the other, break the backbone at the head.
Pull the head and guts away from the skinned body.
Wash the fish in clean water—it's ready for cooking.

Filleting

Filleting Fish

Filleting means getting the meat of the fish without the bones. Larger fish, like largemouth bass, northern pike, salmon and walleye are usually filleted. A filleted fish has its skin and all of its bones removed before cooking. Scaling isn't necessary.

Fillet knives have a long, thin blade that's very sharp and specifically designed for filleting fish. To work properly, they must be really, really sharp. If you have any slime on your hands or the fillet knife handle, wash it off to prevent slipping.

You can also wear metal-mesh fish-cleaning gloves to protect your hands.

Lay the fish on its side on a flat surface.
Cut the fish behind its gills and pectoral fin down to, but not through, the backbone.
Without removing the knife, turn the blade and cut through the ribs toward the tail using the fish's backbone to guide you.
Turn the fish over and repeat the steps.
Insert the knife blade close to the rib bones and slice away the entire rib section of each fillet.
With the skin side down, insert the knife blade about a 1/2-inch from the tail, gripping firmly and put the blade between the skin and the meat at an angle.
Using a little pressure and a sawing motion, cut against, but not through, the skin.
Remove the fillets from the skin.
Wash each fillet in cold water.
Pat dry with a clean cloth or paper towel. The fillets are ready to cook or freeze.

Fish : Prepare Your Catch

noreply@blogger.com (naimtamat) — Mon, 17 Aug 2009 02:56:00 +0000

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Cleaning Fish

If you're going to eat your catch, you have to keep it fresh. Keep caught fish in a live well, a cooler or on a stringer in the water. And always fill your cooler or live well with the same water you're fishing in.

If you're not going to eat your catch, unhook it carefully—while it's still in the water—and release it.

Fish spoil quickly if you don't handle them properly from the moment you land them. You'll end up with softened flesh, a strong flavor and a "fishy" or sour odor.

In this section we'll give you some basic fish-cleaning tips. And some more detailed information on scaling, filleting, steaking and storing your catch.

Things You'll Need to Clean Fish

Work table
A good fillet or fish-cleaning knife
Scaling tool, either a dull knife or a spoon
Container for the cleaned fish
Bucket for scales and discarded fish parts.

Cleaning Fish

Most freshwater fish will die after being out of the water for about ten minutes.
Larger fish and saltwater fish may need to be killed before you clean them—but that involves something called an "icky stick" and brain puncture—so we'll leave that for another time.
Small pan fish can be held in one hand during cleaning, large fish should be held on their back on the table.
Insert the knife tip into the fish's belly near the anal opening and move the blade up along the belly, cutting to the head.
Keep the knife blade shallow so you don't puncture the intestines.
Spread the body open and remove all of the entrails, locate the fish's anus and cut this out in a "V" or notch shape.
Some fish have a kidney by the backbone. Remove it by scraping it out with a spoon or your thumbnail.
Rinse the cavity out with a good stream of water and wash the skin. Some fish have a dark tissue lining the abdominal cavity that can be scraped off to prevent the strong, oily flavor it causes.
Remove the head if you like, trout are often cooked with the head on.
Clean your fish-cleaning table immediately, collect the guts, heads, and scales, and bury the.

Fish : Knots

noreply@blogger.com (naimtamat) — Fri, 14 Aug 2009 04:22:00 +0000

Here are some tips for tying knots of any kind:

Practice. Take a length of fishing line, a hook with the point cut off or buried into a cork, and practice. Practice until you can tie each knot correctly.
Always wet your knots with saliva as you pull them tight. This prevents damage to the line and allows the knot to pull tight.
Trim knots closely with a nail clipper. A good knot, pulled tight, will not come loose. Close trimming prevents the knot from catching snags or weeds. Do not burn the tag end—heat damages the line and knot.
When you're learning knots, the "tag end" (sometimes called the "working end") is the end of the line used to tie the knot. The "standing end" is that part of the line coming from your fishing reel.
Line is cheap. Always leave a foot or more of the tag end for tying knots so that you can tie them properly.
Pull up all ends when tightening the knot. With some knots this will be only the standing end and tag end; with other knots it might be three or four ends.
Once you find a rig that's working (a combination of weights, hooks, swivels or floats used for a particular type of fishing) don't lose it.
Replace the line and retie your rigs at least every year.

Your First Knot: The Arbor Knot

Arbor Knot

The Arbor Knot is used to tie new line to the reel. It's the first knot you need to learn. It doesn't have to be that strong. And it's easy to learn. That makes it a pretty good knot to start off with.

Run the line around the spool hub (arbor), then take the tag end around the standing part of the line and tie an ordinary, everyday, overhand knot. Tie a second overhand knot in the tag end as close as possible to the first one. Pull on the standing part of the line and jam the two knots together against the spool of your reel.

Fish : Other Tackle

noreply@blogger.com (naimtamat) — Wed, 12 Aug 2009 04:37:00 +0000

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Hook, Line and Sinker—it's all the things you need for fishing besides a rod, reel and lures. And that's a lot of stuff.

Fish Hooks

The earliest known evidence of the fish hook dates back to Palestine more than 9,000 years ago. Over the centuries, hooks have been made of wood, animal and human bone, horn, shells, stone, bronze, and iron. Today, hooks are manufactured from either high-carbon steel, steel alloyed with Vanadium or stainless steel.

To find out what kind of hook works best for a particular kind of fish or fishing situation, talk to somebody at your local tackle shop. They'll usually describe a hook based on how a particular part of the hook is made.

Hook types can be named after the design of the point, barb, eye, shank, bend or size.

Fun Fact:

Forbes magazine has named the fishhook as one of the top twenty tools in the history of man.

Points

The point is the sharp end that penetrates the fish's mouth or flesh. The profile of the hook point and its length determine how well the point penetrates.

Point types can be used to describe a certain kind of hook. As in straight, kerbed (offset to the left), reversed (offset to the right), needle point, rolled-in, hollow, spear, beak, mini-barb, semi-dropped and knife-edge.

Barbs

The barb is the projection extending backwards from the point that keeps the fish from unhooking. The length of the barb determines how much pressure is required to penetrate the point and hold the fish on the hook. In other words, how deep you need to set the hook.

Barbless hooks make hook removal and fish release less stressful on the fish, especially if you're doing catch-and-release fishing.

Eyes

The eye is the part of the hook that's used to connect the hook to the line or lure. Hook eye design is usually optimized for strength, weight and/or presentation.

Eye types can be used to describe a certain kind of hook: ring or ball eye, brazed eye (the eye is fully closed), tapered eye (to reduce weight), looped eye (traditional on Atlantic salmon flies), needle eye and spade end (no eye at all, but a flattened area to allow attachment of the leader to the hook).

Hook eyes can also be positioned one of three ways on the shank—up-turned, down-turned, straight, ringed or lopped.

Bend, Shank and Shape

The bend and shank is that portion of the hook that connects the point and the eye. The shape of the hook shank can vary widely from merely straight to all sorts of curves, kinks, bends and offsets. And can contribute to better hook penetration, better fly imitations or better bait-holding ability.

Many hooks intended to hold dead or artificial baits have sliced shanks, which create barbs for better baiting holding ability.

Shank length can be used to describe a certain kind of hook, as in standard, extra long, 2XL, short, etc.

Shape names include Aberdeen, Sproat, Model Perfect, Limerick, Kirby, Carlisle, O'Shaughnessy, Pennell, Eagle Claw, Keel.

Size

Hook sizes are generally referred to by a number from the smallest (size 32) to the largest (size 19/0). For hook sizes from 32 to 1, the larger the number, the smaller the hook. For hook sizes from 1/0 (called a one aught) to 19/0, the larger the number the larger the hook.

Type and Names

In general, there are three types of hooks: bait-cast hooks, fly-cast hooks and bait and spin-cast lure hooks. But within these broad categories there are countless types of hooks for different species of fish and different fishing methods

Hooks can be named for their general purpose (bait-cast, fly-cast and bait and spin-cast lure hooks). They can also be named for one or more of their physical characteristics (point, barb, eye, bend, shank and size.) or for a particular species of fish.

Finally, hooks can be named for a combination of characteristics. Truth is, it can get a little confusing. So always ask for a translation.

Fish : Rigs

noreply@blogger.com (naimtamat) — Tue, 11 Aug 2009 10:01:00 +0000

Rigs

Rig is a word used to talk about the way you tie together bait, lures, hook, swivels, leaders, sinkers, bobbers, flashers, dodgers, cheese doodles and anything else you can attach to a piece of fishing line.

But just because you can tie a lot of different things to a line, doesn't mean that making a rig has to be complicated. Most rigs are designed fairly simply and are used for specific types of fishing.

Still Fishing Rig

Still fishing is a versatile way to go. You can do it from a pier, a bridge, an anchored boat or from shore. You can still fish on the bottom or off the bottom in ponds, lakes, rivers and streams for a variety of species. And you can still fish during most seasons and during any part of the day. Your equipment and the size of the hooks and bait you use depend on what kind of fish you're after. But your best equipment for still fishing is patience. You have to wait for the fish to bite.

Drift Fishing Rig

Drift fishing allows you to fish over a variety of habitats as your boat drifts with the currents or wind movement. You can drift fish on the bottom or change the depth with a bobber or float. Natural baits work best. But jigs, lures and artificial flies will produce good results, too. You can drift fish on ponds, lakes, rivers and streams any time of the day and year.

ReelLive Lining Rig

Your line is “live” when your boat is anchored in a flowing body of water like a river or stream. Use live or prepared baits and keep them on or just off the bottom. Live lining off the bottom allows your line to drift with the current through holes and rocks where the fish may be holding. Your equipment and the size of your hooks and lures depend on what type of fish you’re after.

Trolling Rig

Most trolling is done using a small electric motor that moves the boat quietly through the water so fish aren’t spooked. But you can also troll by towing a lure while walking along the edge of a shoreline, bridge or pier. The speed of the boat determines the depth of your bait. And the depth of the bait is determined by the species of fish you’re trying to catch. Use a spinning reel or a bait caster for trolling. Some states don’t allow motorized trolling, so check out your local fishing regulations to avoid tangling with the fish enforcers.

Bottom Bouncing Rig

Bottom Bouncing is done from a drifting or trolling boat, and it’s a great way to attract or locate fish during most seasons and times of day. Use a buck tail jig or natural bait and drag it along the bottom. The dragging motion causes the lure to bounce along stirring up small clouds of sand or mud. After a few strikes with bottom bouncing, you can drop anchor and apply other methods to hook the particular kind of species you’ve attracted.

Fish : Lures

noreply@blogger.com (naimtamat) — Mon, 10 Aug 2009 03:40:00 +0000

Lures

Shopping for lures can be a bit overwhelming. There are a lot of companies that make a lot of lures in a lot of sizes, shapes and colors. But that's part of the fun, and most lures are priced about the same.

Lure Tips

As you understand more about the environment fish live in and how they behave, you will learn which bait or lure is best for specific fish during different seasons of the year.

Jigs

Jigs have weighted metal heads and a tail made of animal hair, soft plastic, feathers or rubber. Anglers sometimes add a minnow or piece of pork rind to the jig's hooks. Jigs can be used to catch nearly every kind of freshwater and many saltwater fish.

Poppers and Flies

Poppers and flies are small lures used with spincasting and fly-fishing tackle. These baits are very good for pan fish and other fish that feed on the surface such as trout and bass.

Poppers get their action from a cupped face carved or molded into the front of the lure body.

Fly action is totally controlled by the angler.

Spoons

Spoons are metal lures designed to look like a swimming bait fish or minnow. Many spoons are made to be cast while others are meant to be trolled behind a moving boat.

Depending on where and how you're fishing, you can buy weedless, structure or trolling spoons. Ask your tackle shop which ones you need.

Plugs

Plugs have a plastic or wood body and are designed to be used on top of the water or at depths below the surface. Top-water or floating plugs are designed to float on the surface. Diving plugs have plastic or metal lips so they will dive to a certain depth. These diving plugs are often called crankbaits because they are often used with baitcasting reels that operate like a crank.

Spinners

Spinners have one or more blades that spin, or revolve, around a straight wire shaft. Some spinners have tails made of soft plastic or animal hair.

Plastic Baits

Soft-plastic worms, minnows and crayfish are available in many sizes and colors. You can use them with or without a weight. Sometimes, plastic baits are used with a jig head, spinner or spinner bait. Some plastic bait have scents attractive to fish built into them.

Spinnerbaits

Spinnerbaits are lures with one or more blades that spin around a safety pin-type shaft. Most spinnerbaits have skirts made from animal hair, vinyl, rubber or other materials.

Fish : Fishing Techniques

noreply@blogger.com (naimtamat) — Sun, 02 Aug 2009 14:32:00 +0000

-02-

Ice Fishing

Fishing through a three-foot hole in the ice? Yup. It’s a unique way to catch multiple species of northern, fresh-water fish. And thanks to advancements in garment design, portable fish houses and fish locating devices, it’s becoming more and more popular every day. One- to three-foot rods are most often used and simple reels hold the line. You can also ice fish with tip-ups. When a fish hits your tip-up gear, it releases a lever that raises a flag or rings a bell. This means you should stop playing cards with your buddies and start reeling.

Ice Fishing Basics: Setting Up Traditional Ice Fishing Tip Up
Courtesy of ExpertVillage.com

Many fisherman fish with no protective structure other than their winter clothes. Longer fishing expeditions can be mounted with simple structures. Larger, heated structures can make multiday fishing trips possible, but these are often eschewed by seasoned fishers, many of whom do not use these larger shelters. In other words, they think they are wimpy.For those who are game for a cozier experience, a structure with various local names, but often called an ice shanty, ice shack or just plain shack, fish house, bob house, or ice hut, is sometimes used. These are dragged or trailered onto the lake using a vehicle such as a snowmobile, ATV or truck. The two most commonly used houses are portable and permanent shelters. The portable houses are usually made of a heavy, watertight material. The permanent shelters are made of wood or metal and usually have wheels for easy transportation. They can be as basic as a bunk, heater and holes or as elaborate as having satellite TV, bathrooms, stoves, and full-size beds, and may appear to be more like a mobile home than a fishing house.

Fishing From Boats

Big or small, motorized or outfitted with paddles, a boat simply allows you to cover more water. But for most folks, a boat simply makes fishing a lot more fun. The boat you choose should be based on where you want to fish and what kind of fish you’re stalking. Some boats are better on rivers, streams and ponds. And some are best used on large bodies of water. Choose your boat wisely and follow the rules.

1.Know your boat and how to handle it.
2.The water you’re in contains hazards such as submerged trees and rocks.
3.Watch the weather conditions and follow emergency procedures.
4.Always carry safety devices and know how to use them.

The boat operator is legally responsible for the boat and the safety of those on board.

Understand the rules of navigation, the courtesies of safe boating and always complete a boater safety course prior to operating a boat for the first time.

Catch and Release

Catch and release was first introduced in Michigan in 1952, as a way to reduce the cost of stocking hatchery-raised trout. Since then, conservationists and sport fisherman alike have promoted catch and release to ensure sustainability and avoid over fishing. Proper catch and release fishing techniques also reduce fish fighting and handling times and help avoid damage to fish skin, scales and slime layers— damage that can leave fish vulnerable to fungal skin infections.Here are some simple rules.

1.Don't keep a fish out of water longer than you can hold your breath.
2.Never tear a hook out of the fish. Make or purchase an efficient hook remover.
3.If a fish loses consciousness, try to revive it by gently moving it forward and backward so water moves through its gills.
4.When the fish begins to struggle and can swim, let it go.

Fish : Fishing Techniques

noreply@blogger.com (naimtamat) — Sun, 02 Aug 2009 14:27:00 +0000

Bait Casting

Bait casting is a style of fishing that relies on the weight of the lure to extend the line into the target area. Bait casting involves a revolving-spool reel (or “free spool”) mounted on the topside of the rod. Bait casting is definitely an acquired skill. Once you get the hang of the technique (check out the casting animation), you will be casting your lures right on target into the structures where fish are feeding and hanging out.With bait casting, you can use larger lures (1/2 to 3/4) and cast them for longer distances. To get started, you’ll need a rod with good spring action, a good quality anti-backlash reel, 10–15 pound test line and a variety of specific bait casting lures.

Spin Casting

We won’t say it’s foolproof, but spin casting is an ideal fishing method for beginning anglers. Spin-casting equipment is easier to use than bait casting. You can use it to cast both light and heavy lures without tangling or breaking your line. Basic equipment includes a 7-foot rod, a spinning reel and 6–10 pound test line for casting 1/16 to 3/4 ounce lures. You can use an open-face, closed-face or spin-cast reel for spin casting.

Fly Fishing

With fly fishing, various materials are used to design a very lightweight lure called a fly. Fish think the fly is an insect and they take the bait on, or just above, the surface of the water. It takes a little practice, but fly fishing is a pure and exciting way to fish.Unlike other casting methods, fly fishing can be thought of as a method of casting line rather than lure. Non-fly fishing methods rely on a lure's weight to pull line from the reel during the forward motion of a cast. By design, a fly is too light to be cast, and thus simply follows the unfurling of a properly cast fly line, which is heavier and casts easier than lines used in other types of fishing. The angler normally holds the fly rod in the dominant hand and manipulates the line with the other close to the reel, pulling line out in small increments as the energy in the line, generated from backward and forward motions, increases.

Still Fishing

Still fishing is a versatile way to go. You can do it from a pier, a bridge, an anchored boat or from shore. You can still fish on the bottom or off the bottom in ponds, lakes, rivers and streams for a variety of species. And you can still fish during most seasons and during any part of the day. Your equipment and the size of the hooks and bait you use depends on what kind of fish you¹re after. But your best equipment for still fishing is patience. You have to wait for the fish to bite.

Drift Fishing

Drift Fishing Drift fishing allows you to fish over a variety of habitats as your boat drifts with the currents or wind movement. You can drift fish on the bottom or change the depth with a bobber or float. Natural baits work best. But jigs, lures and artificial flies will produce good results, too. You can drift fish on ponds, lakes, rivers and streams any time of the day and year.

Live Lining

Your line is “live” when your boat is anchored in a flowing body of water like a river or stream. Use live or prepared baits and keep them on or just off the bottom. Live lining off the bottom allows your line to drift with the current through holes and rocks where the fish may be holding. Your equipment and the size of your hooks and lures depend on what type of fish you’re after.

Chumming

To attract fish or get them biting again, you can throw “chum” into the water where g you’re fishing. You can use ground-up bait fish, canned sweet corn, dead minnows in a coffee can (for ice fishing), pet food, even breakfast cereal. Or stir up some natural chum by scraping the bottom with a boat oar. Be sure not to over-chum. You want to get them interested in feeding; you do not want to stuff them before they get a chance to go after your hook. Chumming is not legal in all states. Check local fishing regulations to make sure you are not illegally stimulating the hunger of your future catch.

Bottom Bouncing

Bottom Bouncing Bottom Bouncing is done from a drifting or trolling boat, and it’s a great way to attract or locate fish during most seasons and times of day. Use a buck tail jig or natural bait and drag it along the bottom. The dragging motion causes the lure to bounce along stirring up small clouds of sand or mud. After a few strikes with bottom bouncing, you can drop anchor and apply other methods to hook the particular kind of species you’ve attracted.

Trolling

Trolling Most trolling is done using a small electric motor that moves the boat quietly through the water so fish aren’t spooked. But you can also troll by towing a lure while walking along the edge of a shoreline, bridge or pier. The speed of the boat determines the depth of your bait. And the depth of the bait is determined by the species of fish you’re trying to catch. Use a spinning reel or a bait caster for trolling. Some states don’t allow motorized trolling, so check out your local fishing regulations to avoid tangling with the fish enforcers.

Jigging

Jig fishing is popular and challenging. Why? Because the person fishing is creating the action that attracts, or doesn’t attract, the particular type of fish he or she is trying to catch. Here’s how it works. Cast out and let your jig hook sink to the bottom. Then use your rod tip to raise the bait about a foot off the bottom. Then let it drop back to the bottom. You can jig up and down, side to side or up and down and sideways. Jig rigs come in all sizes, shapes and colors, and can be used with or without live bait

Jig and Worm

Attach a worm to your jig hook and use it to bottom hop or sweep through your target area. To bottom hop, cast to the target and let the jig sink. Then reel in slowly, twitching the rod with every third or fourth turn of your reel. To sweep, cast to the target and drag the jig parallel to the bottom while reeling with a fairly tight line. Slow and steady gets the fish when you’re sweeping with a jig and worm.

Fish : Where are they?

noreply@blogger.com (naimtamat) — Sun, 02 Aug 2009 14:15:00 +0000

-02-

Islands and Sand Bars

These sunken or partially sunken bodies of land will attract both bait fish and game fish if they create a break line. In other words, if the land slopes gradually down and into deeper water. Water currents run around islands, too, carrying small plant food and aquatic animals that float on the surface. That can also attract bait fish and game fish.

Holes

Holes are glacially formed basins that are lower than the rest of the lake. Water in these holes is cooler, so they attract deep-water fish on hot, summer days. You'll need a topographical map to find them.

Open Water

Good luck. If you're not in shallow water, and there are no weeds or other natural or man-made structure in sight—above or below the water—you're in open water, and you're in a pretty tough place to catch fish.
But you might be right above a stream or river channel that deep-water fish use to go from one side of the lake to the other in search of food. Or, you might be above a deep hole or drop-off where deep-water fish rest from the current. Still, it's tough to catch fish in either of these places.
Sometimes, in early spring and late fall, when there's very little vegetation anywhere, bait fish will roam open lake waters in search of plankton. During those times, you can look for small fish on the surface in the open water. If you see a bunch of small fish, it's a good bet larger fish are lurking below.

Spring Holes

When water boils up from the bottom of the lake, it creates a spring hole. In the summer, deep-water fish are attracted to these holes because the water coming up is always cooler. Even when the hole is not in deep water, spring holes can attract unsuspecting, deep-water lunkers. But don't get too excited, spring holes are really tough to find.

Sunken Objects

Trees, branches, logs, stumps, rocks, treasure chests—they're all structure. They all provide shelter, shade and protection for fish. So it's a good place to hook a fish. Always watch your line and be extra careful if you're in a boat.

Lily Pads

The insects and other aquatic critters that live on and around lily pads always attract smaller bait fish; and bait fish always attract bigger fish. Huge patches of lily pads can also create shade, which also attracts fish. Cast into the edges and openings. Otherwise, you're likely to tangle up your gear.

Gradual Shores

Like any structure that tilts gradually down and into deeper water, a gradual-sloping shoreline can provide plant food, attract fish and create a path out of and back into deeper water. However, a really gradual slope will create a large expanse of shallow water that will not attract fish.

Piers, Docks and Pilings

Call it structure. Wherever there's structure there's food, shelter and fish. Weeds, barnacles and other food sources can attach to anything. Docks and piers provide shelter from the sun and a nice resting spot for both big and small fish.

Inside Turns and Coves – The Opposite of a Point

An inside turn is a small inlet that cuts into the shore. If the water in the turn is shallow, you've got another break line, and another great place to catch fish.
A cove is a larger version of an inside turn. With more shoreline, more shallows and more protection, and hopefully more fish. Smaller fish will patrol a cove for plant food and bait fish, and game fish may come in early in the morning or late at night.

Shoreline Shallows

The water along the shore always provides a lot of structure and food. So it attracts fish. Bait fish come in for the plant food. Pan fish, such as crappies, sunfish, bluegill and perch, come in for the bait fish. Early in the morning – or late at night- game fish will swim into the shallows to sneak up on both the bait fish and the pan fish.
Yup, it's possible to land a big pike or even a Muskie close to shore.

Fish : Where are they?

noreply@blogger.com (naimtamat) — Sun, 02 Aug 2009 13:24:00 +0000

-01-

Freshwater Lakes & Ponds

Lakes and ponds are great places for fish to live. They produce abundant plant food and offer plenty of cover for fish to hide. Shoreline structures like docks, logs, stumps, brush and rocks provide shelter, shade and protection for fish. Which means they also provide great fishing opportunities for the anxious angler.
You can fish lakes and ponds from the shore or from a boat. You can find fish in shallow or deep water, in open water or near natural or man-made structures. In lakes, you can catch freshwater fish like largemouth and smallmouth bass, pike, pickerel, perch, panfish, trout, even salmon.
Get to know your lake structure. Points, inlets, holes, sunken islands, dams, submerged objects (manmade or natural) and reeds and weeds are all considered structure. You should always fish in and around structure. It's a simple formula.

Cliffs and Steep Shore Banks

Cliffs and Steep Shore Banks
A shear cliff or bank that goes straight down into deep water provides no structure, break line or gradual path to deeper water. So it doesn't attract fish. On the other hand, a cliff or bank that has an underwater shelf or slopes gradually toward deeper water does attract fish. You should also look for crumbled-off rock at the underwater base of sharp cliffs. Deep-water fish may be attracted to these rocks for food or spawning.

Rocks

Rocks
Rocks are structure. They provide fish with shelter (cover), food and a possible place to mate. Remember, always fish structure. If the rocks are in deeper water or on the edge of deeper water, they provide an even better place to fish. Just don't snag your bait.

Points with Break Lines

Points
A point extends out from the shoreline and slopes gradually down and into deeper water. It's a good place to fish. But a point with a quick drop-off or one that doesn't extend into deeper water isn't a good place to fish.

Drift Lines and Wind

Drift Lines
Have you ever noticed lines on the water during a breezy day? Those breezes are actually pushing surface water around the lake. Which in turn pushes around surface food. Look for the drift lines and you'll find fish.
Stronger winds can actually push bait fish closer to shore, bringing game fish closer to shore to feed.
Even really strong winds can make for good fishing. Stirring up everything from microscopic food to lunker fish, but it's pretty tricky and more than a little dangerous. Leave it to the pros.
Weed Beds

Weed Beds
Weed beds are structure. They provide food and shelter for bait fish and bait fish attract game fish. Look for weed beds that lead to deeper water and create a break line. Or look for sunken weed beds in deep, open water.