The Annual Cuda Bowl, which is held every year on the weekend of the Super Bowl, looked again like tough conditions were going to make fishing a challenge. It is well known that when you fish the Cuda Bowl you had best bring your foul weather gear. On the first day, the rain and fog set in and the water was still cold. Despite this, we found an area that held some nice fish that actually wanted to bite. The next day called for heavier winds, but, when we got out there, the water had warmed up and the fish were much happier. This year’s tournament turned out to be a huge success in the amount of fish that were caught compared to the past couple of years.

Since the days following the tournament, a big change has occurred. The water temperature has risen and the fish have moved from the deeper water up to the flats. I’m hoping that this trend continues all the way into summer. Schools of bonefish have pushed up shallow and are eating, and the permit have been showing well on channel edges and up on the flats and banks. Hopefully, we will begin to see the first batch of tarpon pushing into the backcountry channels, signaling the beginning of months of excitement!

It has been a challenging five months for the Keys--especially our friends to the east and north of us. Thanks to the help from local residents, people from the mainland, and volunteers from all over, almost everyone in the guiding industry is back up and running. There are so many stories of generosity from companies and individuals that love the Florida Keys who have helped. Without them the recovery process would have been even more tedious and slow.

Over the past couple of months, I have seen many misleading news reports, primarily on national TV. Many of them have said to stay away from the Keys; that the damage is too much and we are not ready for people to visit yet. These reports were obviously made by correspondence who may have never been here before--especially not recently. I ask that anyone who reads this spread the word far and wide that the hotels, restaurants, resorts, bars, and all water activities are definitely back in business. The best way for us to continue is to get everybody back down here to enjoy our islands.

Change is in the air; we can all feel it down here. Get down here and feel it for yourself!

January brings some of the most consistent and exciting fishing we have on the flats. I remember years ago, when I was running offshore charters in north Florida, we would supplement income by fishing for kingfish commercially. We called it NASCAR fishing because we would do left hand turns for hours around nearshore wrecks, dragging silver spoons. We used drone spoons on planers tied off to the rail of the boat. No rod and reel, straight handlining. The faster we could sling these slime sticks into the boat, the faster we could be done and go home. When the bite was on, there was only one thing that could slow us down. Where there is structure, such as a boat wreck, there are barracudas. Some of the biggest cuda I’ve ever caught were from fishing like this. Hardly a challenge. Many people turn their noses up to the idea of fishing for them for this reason; they can be a nuisance offshore.

Barracudas have long been the recipients of mistreatment by fishermen, commercial and recreational. It was thought that their numbers were so large that killing them for sport was the norm. We now know that they aren’t an expendable species. In fact, they are a very important part of our marine ecosystem. Not only that, targeting them by sight fishing on shallow water flats is about as much fun as you can have with your clothes on!

I look forward to winter fishing because of barracudas. This is when the big ones push up onto the flats looking to warm up and ambush prey. They can be seen nosed into the current on the grass, or sitting in a sand hole just waiting for a needlefish or mullet to swim by.

There are many lures that will get a bite from a big cuda. The most popular is the old reliable tube lure. Red, green, and yellow are the colors I make my tubes. Most use a very fast retrieve, but there are some very experienced guides who use a variety of “secret” retrieves. They tell me that that’s how they can get a bite from the big, picky fish. I haven’t been able to extract the secret from them, but hopefully one day I will be privy to this information.

When I am blind casting I like to use Waxwing lures. They have a great movement in the water and cast a country mile. They are great for covering ground and also when it’s cloudy and fish are difficult to spot.

So, this winter get out there and hunt down these amazing high-speed predators. Remember, that though these fish look fierce and dangerous, they are, in fact, quite delicate. Fight them hard and get them to the boat as quickly as possible. Get a quick picture and get ‘em back in the water. Make sure you completely revive them before release. Take care of the barracudas so we can have a great way to make it through the winter. 

“Get over here! The birds are bombing down on some kind of hatch. Hurry!”

We pulled up to the area where he said to go and sure enough there was a load of terns diving up and down, making tiny splashes as they hit the water. As we got closer, the chirps from these happy, hungry birds got louder and louder. This was music to my ears. As we got even closer, the tips of the tails and backs of tarpon were barely cutting through the glass-like water surface. Bingo! These fish were happy and so were we.

I already had small, shrimpy-type flies tied on to ten weight rods. These fish weren’t monsters. They looked like they were in the 30-50 pound range – the perfect size in my opinion.

I pushed us closer as one of the guys began stripping out line. He cast out and stripped back quickly so the line played nicely in the cockpit. I pushed the boat into position, making sure I stayed out of the path of the other boats that were there. First come, first served. I was lucky enough to get the call so I was more than happy to take it slow and approach without disturbing the bite or any other anglers. One boat already had a fish on and the other was actively casting to a school.

We finally got close enough to start winding up a cast. After a few casts that landed short, my guy landed one right on the edge of some fish moving slowly to the left. He slowly and smoothly stripped the fly back and then one fish really seemed to like it. The tarpon ate with a big gulp and then flew into the air. Next thing we knew, fly line was shooting back at us like a plate of noodles.

“Bye bye, fish!” I yelled.

After a couple of high-fives and a little regrouping, we were back on the fish. For the next 45 minutes to an hour it went like this. Solid shots and nice fish jumped. But as quickly as it happened, the sun got a little higher, the birds disappeared and it was over. It was an amazing and fortunate way to start our day.

This time of year, scenarios like this play out on hot, calm mornings and evenings. Falling tides often trigger hatches of shrimp and the tarpon go nuts for it. Other times what’s known as a “guppy hatch” will occur. When the water is slicked out, you can sometimes see small fish just below the surface that look like they are trying to sip air as their tiny mouths dimple the water. The tarpon will glide underneath them and gently gulp them down. Usually there won’t be big explosive bites, it’s much more subtle. Small baitfish patterns in dark colors will work for these fish.

These calm summer mornings are one of the most magical times down here. If you get out there before the sun comes up, you stand a good chance of finding one of these jackpot situations. When you get into a good bite, remember to be courteous of those around you. Also, be very careful with these fish. Fight them hard to land them as quickly as possible. Even better, go light on your tippet and fight them through a few jumps and then break ‘em off. We are seeing fewer and fewer fish here the past couple of years so let’s do what we can to help them live through a fight.

Get up early and go get bit!

When I call my anglers to discuss what we will be doing on our trip, I do my best to get them excited while holding on to as much realism as possible. I tell them how the fishing has been the past couple of days. Wind and weather are always a topic, as well as how the bite has been. During tarpon time, I let them know that we will start out early looking for the first light bite, and hopefully it will continue through the day at various spots and tides. I also let them know that we will be ready to fish for whatever conditions Mother Nature presents us with.

In preparation for these days that I know will probably be tough, I leave nothing to chance. If I’m fly fishing I bring outfits from 8 to 12 weight. Bonefish flies, combo crab/shrimp flies, and a couple of different colored tarpon flies are tied onto the appropriate setups. I also make sure I have a couple of spinning rods tucked under the gunnel because, let’s face it, fly fishing isn’t easy! If one of my guys wants to use the long rod and can’t quite get the job done due to wind, visibility or just plain lack of experience, it’s nice to have the option to be able to get bit on a spinner. I explain that there is no shame in this. The only way to improve, is to stick with it and keep casting. But when the time comes that we need a hookup, most clients are happy that there is a spinning rod on board.

When the fly poles aren’t riding with us for the day, I make sure I have the full arsenal of spinners on board. Every outfit I carry are in pairs. I have 10 000 size Saragosa spinners with 50 lb. braid down to 3500 Sutrains with 12 lb. test. I also make certain that my bait and lures are stocked. I try to have a half-dozen crabs in various sizes for tarpon and permit in the livewell, as well as a couple dozen shrimp. I don’t use the cast net very much this time of year, but I always make sure that the pinfish traps are baited and rotated.

As far as lures that I can’t do without, there are a few that are always tied on a rod ready to roll. You always need to have a large plastic worm, like a Hogy, ready to pitch at rolling and tailing tarpon. I don’t know why they like them so much, and I don’t care. Do yourself a favor and have one ready at all times. Also, a suspending waxwing is an all-around great lure. They can be cast a mile and everything likes them. I take the forward hooks off and replace the rear hook with a Hamamatsu SC-17 3/0 or 4/0. Ya gotta have a tube lure ready too. You never know where a big barracuda will be lurking. A variety of bucktail jigs rounds out the necessities I keep on my boat. Military survival packs contain, among other life-saving items, monofilament line and bucktail jigs. That says something to me about their effectiveness.

So, when the wind turns and blows hard north, or the target species just aren’t there, be ready for any situation. With all the Gulfside rock piles and basins, and the Oceanside flats, there are many ways to get the rods bent.

Late February and early March have the potential for some great days fishing for the tarpon that just had to migrate through while the water is still a little chilly. When I see a few days of seasonably warm weather approaching, I head to the backcountry channels and basins in hopes of finding a few fish rolling. 

As soon as the good weather gets here, there is always some bad weather right behind it. It is usually out of the north and usually a lot colder. Then, the water temperature drops and the fish go “bye-bye” until another warming trend arrives. 

Bad weather gives us time to get prepared for the onslaught of big tarpon that are slowly marching our way. I use this time to make sure that I have a season’s worth of tarpon flies ready to go. 

These early spring weather windows keep us going until the bulk of the fish arrive in April and May. Well, April is finally here, and it’s time to get busy! The tarpon should be holding and rolling in backcountry and oceanside channels. 

For the live baiters, a well-placed pinfish trap is a must. Put a few traps out in the grass where there is some tidal flow. If you can get it out there in the morning, baited with a block of chum, it will be loaded by the afternoon or next morning. Drifting baits through a school is a simple way to get a bite. I use relatively small circle hooks and light leaders to help get more bites. You may lose a few fish due to abrasion, but the initial jump and first run are the best part of tarpon fishing. 

I know the desire many have to want to land one of these beasts is huge. But, the fact remains that they are delicate fish and wear out after a long fight. Tarpon are very susceptible to sharks when they are tired from a fight. They must be completely revived before release. Hold the fish next to the boat and bump the boat into gear. Once the fish starts to kick on its own, it should swim away just fine. I suggest that if you are in a good bite, land one fish and carefully get a picture with it in the water. After that, fight subsequent fish through the jumps and runs. Once the fish goes “down and dirty”, tighten the drag and break him off. This way, the angler gets the excitement of the fight and the tarpon swims away strong and healthy. 

Most guides agree that this year will be a difficult one for keeping tarpon away from the sharks. This winter we have seen large numbers of bull sharks on the flats, basins and marinas. So, please do your best this year to help them from becoming dinner. I should mention that doing this can protect you as well. I have had sharks come up and eat a fish as its being released. It is scary and potentially very dangerous. So be vigilant when you do land one and stay safe! 

My favorite way to fish for tarpon is with lures and flies. A go-to bait for the spinning rods is the Hogy worm in various colors. Most popular are white, black and pink. I don’t know why, or really care why, they love these lures so much. The fact is, that a slow rolled worm in the morning near a school of happy fish will get eaten. I rig mine with a circle hook. The hook-up ratio isn’t as high, but we get some beautiful bites on these things.

My fly box is pretty simple as well. I keep a few staples in there that I am confident in. There are always purple and black, and chartreuse bunny and fox fur flies. In the morning, a purple fly cast on an intermediate clear tip, and slowly stripped back, will get results. Also, always have a lot of palolo worm flies in the box. I use these all through the season, not just during a worm hatch. Other than that, I keep a few different small feather bug flies in a few different colors.

Tarpon season is here! Have a blast, be safe, and be nice to our fish and all others fishing near you.

 “I bet you have so many different types of people on your boat day to day. I could see how it might get a little frustrating when you have a novice on board.”

I reply with the usual kind and gentle answer.  “I think it’s great that people new to the sport are interested in fishing with me. I like being able to show them new places and experiences. If we catch a few fish along the way, even better!”

“Do most people end up doing well?”

“Well, yes, for the most part.  But, I'll tell you who ends up doing the best a majority of the time--the ladies.”

This topic comes up from time to time with fellow guides. We all seem to agree on this point. We discuss why we think women anglers seem to be luckier on the boat. In a sport where most of the participants are men, it is great when we have the chance to fish with female anglers. Whether they are skilled or experienced, the demeanor and focus of a woman on the bow is completely different.

Some think it might be the “fishing show” expectations that many male anglers have. Admittedly, those guys on the tube and the intrawebs sure do show us a lot of fish in 22 minutes. But, even a week of constant filming, can prove not to be enough good fishing to fill such a small amount of time.

On a regular day, it may take some time to find where the fish are. A lot of the guys who get on the boat are very excited and full of hope and high expectations. And trust me, most guides put in 100% effort to make a memorable day. Combining all of these emotions and variables, when it is finally time to make a clean shot at a string of tarpon, a lot can go wrong. “Buck fever” absolutely exists on a fishing flat! 

It seems that these factors don’t have the same effect on female anglers. Yes, the excitement is there, but the tension created by expectation isn’t as palpable. Perhaps the responsibilities of women have genuinely faded away when they are on the water. There seems to be a sense of calm--of taking in the surroundings. Where normally she may feel the need to take control of a situation because of a motherly instinct, she just lets the day unfold. It may just be a day to truly enjoy the moment. And when “the moment” occurs, and it’s time to get things done, she is ready for action.

Whether novice or experienced, female anglers take instruction from their guide very well. Personally, I can’t seem to get a woman to hear a word I have to say on land. On the boat though, every word makes sense for some reason. Whether it’s pitching a bait to 11 o’clock at 50 feet, or making sure to lift slowly and not reel against the drag, instruction is well received. 

Then, there is the factor of fortune. The ladies simply have better luck as anglers. A sweeping generalization? I don’t think so. I’m not one to speak in absolutes, but I’m standing fast on this one. Last year, I had a husband and wife on the boat for a bonefish trip. He was going to fish and she was “just going to read a book”.  “Yeah right,” I thought.  I was going to make sure that she got in on the action.  Well, as it turns out, there wasn’t a hell of a lot of action early in the trip. We had one shot while she finished three chapters! Finally, we started to see some more fish, but we just couldn’t quite connect with one. This is not completely abnormal with a fly rod, but no less frustrating. So, I put a shrimp on a spinning rod and made her hold it. Her husband looked back with a crooked, yet accepting, smile.  “When he misses the next one, you’re gonna catch that sommb*tch!”

She laughed, but I could tell she was secretly excited about the potential of catching one where he could not. Sure enough, a school came down to us. I swung the boat to give a good shot and she didn’t wait for him to miss. That shrimp landed eight feet in front of the approaching fish and they found it quickly. A couple of minutes later, a nice bonefish was on, being released, and she was back to reading her book. She was batting a thousand for the day and was done. One for one!

That is the same sort of scenario I see unfold when “Lady Luck” graces the skiff. So, guys, if you want success on the water, bring you better half with you on your next trip.

This time of year, some of the best sight fishing on the flats is for large, laid up barracudas. When it comes to an exciting stalk, an amazing strike, and long fast runs after the bite, these fish are hard to beat. And when the tide starts to flood sand flats, you can get many shots at these aggressive feeders.

Just because they are aggressive feeders, does not mean that barracudas are an easy fish to catch. They are not indiscriminate hunters that eat everything that swims around them. They are a very spooky fish, and a stealthy approach will greatly increase your odds of success.

I also tell my clients that the key to fishing for barracudas is distance and speed. Your lure needs to land well past the fish you are casting to, at an angle that it will cross in its line of sight. Too many times, a cast will land right next to the fish. If that doesn’t blow the fish out, it certainly will not have enough time to catch the bait before it reaches the rod tip.

Speed is imperative to trigger a strike. Keep the rod tip low, point it at the lure and reel as fast as you possibly can. I tell my guys that they can’t possibly reel too fast. When you have one start to follow, do not slow your retrieve. I have never seen a mullet or ballyhoo slow down when it is being chased. If you decrease your speed, it seems unnatural and the fish will turn off the bait.

Once you get one hooked, get ready for a great fight. You have to keep the rod bent and the line tight, because a barracuda will change direction in an instant. It will be running from you at full speed, and then, somehow, turn 180 degrees and fly through the air, almost land in the boat, and then, go straight under it, all in a matter of seconds.

Fight them hard with maximum pressure so you can get them to the boat quickly. Barracudas exert so much energy during the fight, so they wear out rather quickly. Carefully unhook them, snap a quick picture, and take the time to revive them. Just tossing them back into the water greatly decreases survivability.

As far as lure choices go, the tube lure, in many colors, is the standard. If it is very windy, I will use the old silver spoon, or a waxwing with a short trace of wire and a swivel twisted on.

“Awww dammit! It’s a jack!” Is the PG version of what is usually exclaimed.

After several long minutes of tug of war, grunting, sweat and multiple circles around the boat, the angler is always surprised that a 17 pound jack just wore him out worse than a 50 pound tarpon. Even though the jack crevalle isn’t considered a glamour species, there is no denying their power and endurance.

Now that the tarpon are gone and the water has cooled it is time to start targeting jacks. I like to look for them in the gulf side basins and channels. Ill drift through and blind cast with jigs or swim baits. If there are pilchards to be had, i will stake out on the edge of a channel with good current running. Start throwing out freebies and the jacks will probably find them. Once the school is located there is nothing more fun than throwing a top water plug to them. A fast retrieve will result in aggressive and repeated attacks. For the fly casters a popper or banger fly works very well. When a big jack eats it get that line cleared or it won’t last long!

This time of year you can look for schools of jacks on the flats as well. Often they will follow large rays and sharks. The bigger the shark is the more likely there will be jacks behind it. Again, these fish are there to eat. Get a plug or fly to them quickly since these fish are usually moving quickly across the flat. Once one fish sees the bait the rest will follow and fight for it. Jacks are a tough and resilient fish but since the are so aggressive they will swallow a bait quickly. I will change out any treble hooks for singles to help insure that these fish are released in good shape. Since they have little to no food value it is best to make sure they swim away healthy as possible.

Get out there and find those big yellow schools and enjoy the fight. when the bite is on it is hard to have more fun than during a jack attack. 

"Hello?"

"Good afternoon, Cap. I'm interested in some information about a fishing trip."

"Yessir! What would you like?"

"But, first!  Let me tell you what I would like to see happen."  Oh lord, here we go.

"Okay, great."

"Let me start by saying that I have fished all over the world and have a lot of experience with this type of fishing.  I've caught hundreds of tarpon, so we don't have to focus on those things; old hat ya know?"

"Oh yeah, I understand."  Ugh.

"So first, I was thinking we should start with an early tarpon bite."  But...I thought. Wait, I'm confused.

"Okay, that is a good way to begin."

"Now I prefer to fish for tarpon on a spot where it is easy to get out of the boat over some hard bottom.  This makes it easy to get a photo with me holding every fish I land. With the appropriate camera and lens. And the sun at the right angle. Did I mention the bottom should be sandy?"

"Yessir, you did. So when are you interested in..."

"Next, we should move on to bonefish.  I know these guys are easy to catch. Last year, in the Exumas, we caught 20 or 30 a day. Mind you, they were smaller fish, but there were schools of hundreds that we could just walk to. Amazing!"

"Wow!  That's great. It's a little bit different here targeting bonefi..."

"So after we catch a bunch of those, we should move to permit. You know, finish the slam real quick.  I figure you can bring a couple of crabs along and a spinning rod. Sometimes it's hard to get a permit to eat a fly."

"Oh yeah.  I've heard that.  So, great. When would you like to go? I have a couple of days open this wee..."

"I think we should finish up throwing some tubes at some cudas. They are a blast on the flat. So easy to get those bites too!  Also, have some shrimp or pinfish in the livewell.   My wife wants to put a bunch of snapper filets in the freezer to take home for our family fish fry!  You should come, it will be a blast. You will love Topeka."

"Yessir, I'm excited about that.  Now, if I can just get your name and when you would like to fish, we can get a couple of days booked for you."

"A couple of days?  I'm going to be in town tomorrow and only have time set aside for a half-day charter. We have sight seeing and snorkeling to do with the kids, ye know?"

"Well sir, I'm sorry, but I'm booked all week. Let me give you Tony and Brandon's numbers. I'm sure one of them would be glad to accommodate you." 

Although most guides have had a similar conversation, it is definitely not the norm. Repeat clients usually understand that fishing is just that, going fishing. Most new customers start to understand the process as the day progresses.

July brings great news. Amazing days like the one our dream client wants can happen this month. It won't be easy. But the flats can produce some amazing action in the summer.

Early morning can reveal some great tarpon bites when there is a shrimp hatch. As the sun rises, look for flocks of terns diving in calm basin waters. Usually, if you find this happening, the tarpon will be underneath. These aren't usually the big migratory fish we saw months previous. These will probably be in the 30-60 lb. range. Perfect size!

On a low tide, the bonefish reveal themselves on many backcountry flats. This is a great time of year to look for them on wadeable bottom. When the wind is not blowing, it is a blast to walk a flat hunting bonefish with a fly rod.

Summer is also a great time to find schools of permit. Cruising channel edges, start on the bottom of a tide where good current will push water up onto an adjacent flat. If you find them floating in the deeper water, there is a good chance they will go onto the flat as soon as it is deep enough for them to swim there. Again, wading for these fish is the best way to get your shots without spooking them.

Also, let's not forget that lobster season will be starting soon. It's a great way to cool off in the middle of the day. Keep an eye out for sandy patches with undercut ledges on the flats as you pole around. Mark them and come back later. Dinner might be waiting there for you. If you are going for mini season lobster, please be safe and respectful of your fellow boaters. It is an inherently dangerous time on the water here. Accidents are frequent and many result in injury. Be mindful of navigation and please don't run your motor through shallow flats with turtle grass. Go slow and take your time.

It's heating up out there. So get out early and often and the chances of success in the middle of the summer are huge!

Tarpon season is in full swing and local flats guides are burning it at both ends keeping up with the demands of their clients. If you are here looking to get out and try your luck at catching one of these beasts, you may find it difficult to find an available guide. Don’t give up! The Key West Bight can be the answer to your problem. There are a number of guides here with boats in the water ready to go. Most of them will be booked in the morning but afternoon and evening trips are available. A walk around the bight will provide all of the information and entertainment you desire. Guides will be back at the dock between noon and  four o’clock.

Let’s say you start your walk at the Galleon Resort. Stop by either of their tiki bars for a drink. On the marina side, in front of the little tiki bar you will find Tarpon Diem Charters. Captain Chad Will will take you for a great day chasing tarpon. He runs a side console Silver King skiff with room enough to accommodate three anglers.

Walk around the corner to the A&B Marina and tucked in with the sport fishing boats you will find Captain John Smouse. He is one of the top producers of tarpon on the island. Shadow Caster Charters has been in operation for a long time and John’s experience shows in his knowledge and patience. That corner of the bight has a number of bars and restaurants to hang out and people watch. One of my favorite is happy hour at The Boathouse. Get there early as it fills up fast. It also happens to be right in front of the Shadow Caster slip. The offshore boats, including the FishMonster boat, will be there cleaning their catches and feeding the resident tarpon. It is always a good show.

Keep walking around past the Schooner Wharf and you will walk past the newest addition to the Bight’s restaurants. The long awaited Waterfront Brewery is finally open. In front of the brewery you will find three Maverick skiffs in the water ready to roll. These are all run by long time and very experienced Key West Guides. Mike Pollack, Jimi McKillip and Scott Irvine all have the goods when it comes to catching fish in shallow water. If you are into fly fishing these are some of the best guys to contact.

Just a few steps away you will be in front of Turtle Kraals. Go upstairs to the patio bar and get the nachos and a beer. While up there you can heckle two of the best guides on the island. Trust me, they love it!  On the new Maverick on the left is Capt. Lenny Leonard. The guide so nice, they named him twice!  And on the Dolphin skiff on the right you will find AWS charters, Capt. Tony Skinner. These are two of the most talented and entertaining guides you will ever meet. Just ask them, they will let you know!

Finally, you will find the Half Shell Raw Bar and Key West Bait & Tackle. The Half Shell is a Key West landmark. Happy hour is fantastic and so is the shuffleboard. If you want in on this, you had better bring your A-game. There are some real ringers in there. You might even find yourself being trounced by the very guide you will be fishing with the next day. The best tackle shop in the world is right next door. Key West Bait & Tackle has everything you need to go fishing. From tackle to apparel to beer! They've got what you need. And of course they have a bar.  If you want to go to a place and hear fishing guides lie to each other over drinks, this is the place to go. Stop by Dante’s pool bar next door for some serious entertainment. You never know what could happen there. Just sayin’!  On the water in front of these places is Conch Harbor Marina where you will find yours truly. I feel very fortunate to be surrounded by so much talent and friendship in the Key West Bight. Just come down and walk around. I promise, you will not be disappointed.