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Texas Water Safari (TWS) … WaterTribe Everglades Challenge (EC) … Missouri River 340 (MR340)

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2006 WaterTribe Florida Ultimate Challenge

12 years ago, after paddling folding kayaks for more than 20 years, I got my first hard shell boat. I built a stitch-and-glue 19.5 Patuxent from CLC, perhaps the fastest kayak available for home building at that time. Racing? No, I just wanted to travel fast by water to some remote photography destinations.

A couple years later I was surfing the internet looking for winter paddling opportunities on Padre Island. I have never gone paddling there. Instead, I discovered the Texas Water Safari. Hours of watching video tapes produced by Pat Spencer, three visits to Texas including the 2001 race and two boats later I ran my first paddling race: 2002 TWS. I was hooked.

Since then, I have completed the Texas Water Safari three times, entered three WaterTribe events and finished one Everglades Challenge, completed three Missouri River 340 Races, and several shorter events from 10 to 100 miles.

How can I compare these three ultra-marathon paddling races? Which one is the toughest, the most challenging?

The distance to be covered by the racers seem to be quite similar. All three races run non-stop with mandatory checkpoints. You need to be prepared to paddle day and night, and paddling conditions can change drastically with the weather. TWS and MR340 are river races while EC is a coastal race with longer timeframe.

Everybody has a different story and experience. I am not a competitive athlete. My goal is just to finish the race, competing mostly against myself. My additional challenge is to shoot pictures and video when racing. The perspective of Carter Johnson, who paddled all three races in a surfski setting a solo record every time, would be quite different.

2001 Texas Water Safari: a portage over the old Rio Vista Dam

History …

TWS, “the World’s Toughest Canoe Race”, has been organized since 1963, following the 30 day expedition by Frank Brown and Bill “Big Willie” George. More than one hundred boats enter this race each year. There are also other river marathon races organized on different segments of the TWS course.

EC, “Adventure in Small Boats”, was created by Steve Isaak (aka “Chief”) to promote expedition style racing in kayaks, canoes and small sailboats. Everglades Challenge has been run since 2001. Other challenges have also been organized including Lake Michigan, Cross Florida and Ultimate Florida Challenge, as well as shorter racing and training events. Typically, around 30 boats show up at the start of the Everglades Challenge.

MR340, “the world’s longest non-stop river race”, organized by Scott Mansker and team at RiverMiles.com is three years old. In this short time the race grew up to 250 boats expected at the start this year.

Race course …

TWS. 260 miles from San Marcos to Seadrift, 100 hours time limit, 10 checkpoints. Small, spring fed river with numerous portages over dams and log jams, strainers, some rapids (San Marcos), then more open river (Guadelupe), and, finally open water of San Antonio Bay. No other river traffic, just racing boat congestion at the start and first miles of the San Marcos River. River access, especially, along the Guadelupe, may be muddy, steep and difficult. The race starts on the 2nd Saturday of June.

EC. ~300 miles, from Fort Desoto to Key Largo. 8 days time limit, 3 checkpoints. Coastal tidal waters of Florida, many choices for race course between checkpoints, several long open water crossings, ship channels, heavy traffic along Intercoastal Waterway, Everglades National Park.

MR340. 340 miles on the Missouri River from Kansas City to St Charles. 100 reduced to 88 hours time limit, 8 checkpoints. A big navigatable open river with strong current, wing dikes, buoys, floating debris at high water, some barge traffic, no portages. The race takes place at full moon in July/August.

2007 MR340: Race start at the Kaw Point

Race format and support …

TWS. All gear and supplies except water and ice must be carried. Each boat has to have a team captain whose responsibility it is to follow the team by vehicle to keep track of their location and condition and give them water and/or ice – it is a real team effort. For a single, sleep-deprived team captain, driving from checkpoint to checkpoint, the TWS is a quite challenge. No other help from land support, spectators or other racers is allowed.

EC. Self supported expedition format. No land support or any prearranged help is allowed. However, you can buy supplies. 24 hour reporting rule.

MR340 is the river race like TWS, but is more liberal concerning the land support. Many forms of land support are allowed, or you can paddle self-supported in the expedition style. It is possible to buy water, sandwiches, or even hot food at most of the checkpoints.

2006 WaterTribe Ultra Marathon, Everglades and Ultimate Florida Challenges: The start at Fort Desoto

Exposure to nature and elements …

You will be really dirty and wet most of the time during TWS. You will have a good chance to encounter local wildlife in the form of snakes, spiders, fire ants, mayflies. Proper body maintenance in these conditions is essential and, perhaps, more important than in other races.

In MR340 and EC you can stay away from land, so your exposure to these natural elements will be much lower. These races are much cleaner than TWS. They can be just pure sweat. If you choose to paddle inside the Everglades be prepared for mosquitos and other bugs.

Every body of water has some sort of fish (like the alligator gar in TX or Asian carp in MO) that may jump into your boat resulting in an injury (and in dramatic stories after the race). My nicest experience was to paddle with dolphins across the Florida Bay.

2005 TWS. A nice green logjam on the San Marcos River below Luling

How far away it is?

You are lucky if you are living within the area of one of these races, as you will have a real advantage in training, scouting the course and racing. I consider driving from Colorado to the race as a part of each challenge: EC (Tampa) 35 hours, TWS (San Marcos) 18 hours, MR340 (Kansas City) 10 hours. EC is the most difficult for me, while MR340 feels like my backyard. I also need some time for acclimatization to local conditions. Hot and humid Texas is always the most challenging for me. The only case when I ran into serious troubles during a race was due to a poor execution of that driving/acclimatization phase.

A local knowledge and scouting the race course is the most important for TWS in my experience. I started my paddling almost 40 years ago on a big river in Poland, so the Missouri with wing dikes and barges feels quite familiar to me. My experience in sea paddling is really limited. And, indeed, EC provides me always pretty tough time.

Boats …

You can take almost any boat for a river race. TWS favors lighter boats, especially for solos, which are easier to portage and drag over obstacles. A boat for a coastal challenge needs to be seaworthy and safe. Minimalist designs by Matt Layden like his 13.5’ Rob Royoid kayak prove that very simple and small boats can satisfy those conditions and even be faster than sea kayaks. The risk of damaging or destroying your boat is the highest in TWS. Most of paddling boats in WaterTribe challenges are equipped with some sort of sailing rig.

I paddled a Spencer X-treme canoe in both TWS and MR340 events and a Sea Wind Canoe in both EC (with Pacific Action downwind sail) and MR340, and tried Surfrigger (outrigger canoe) in my first EC. I also completed the MR340 in Thunderbolt-X kayak, but I really prefer the seating comfort of a canoe for long endurance races.

EC is more expensive than the river races due to safety equipment requirements (EPIRB/PLB, VHF radio, cell phone, signaling kit) and navigational aids (maps, GPS)

A Tribe …

All three races have something important in common which provides a strong motivation to participate. There is a growing community of racers, organizers, supporters and fans around each race – a kind of tribe. You can expect exchange and sharing of information both online in discussion forums and during actual paddling and training. River tribes of TWS and MR340 are quite similar, with TWS having, of course, a much longer tradition. They both include local communities and many paddling enthusiasts along the race course. The WaterTribe challenges, where racers are dispersed over a large area and are traveling different routes, are different in this respect. You can see all racers only at the start. The demographics of EC, which includes sailors, is also a little bit different.

There is some overlap between tribes. It is really interesting to see Texas exporting racers, boats and ideas to Missouri. Many WaterTribers, especially the Kruger’s boat clan, are starting to participate in the MR340.

2003 TWS. Spectators, racers, and team captains at Westerfield Crossing

The MR340 may be the most forgiving race for a beginner. However, it really depends on your racing goals, preparation and planning. Each race provides some unique challenges. What is more dangerous: hitting a barge on the Missouri, a strainer on San Marcos River or a manatee in Florida?

Related Posts …

Texas Water Safari – Reports, Pictures, Video Clips
Adventures of a Team Captain – 4 Years of Texas Water Safari in Retrospect
2007 Texas Water Safari in a Surfski by Carter Johnson – I. Race and Boat, II. San Marcos and Guadelupe, III. Finish and Solo Record, How to Sit in Water and Paddle a Surfski for 260 or 300 Miles
WaterTribe Challenges
How to Choose a Boat for an Ultra Marathon Race? The Case of Missouri River 340
GPS/Photo Race Log from the 2006 Missouri River 340 Race
Speed: My 2008 Missouri River 340 Race as Recovered from a GPS Track
3 Years of the Missouri River 340 Race

The second Saturday of June. 2009 Texas Water Safari started today with 100 boats lined up at Aquarena Springs. 260 miles to go down the San Marcos and Guadelupe Rivers to Seadrift in San Antonio Bay. Good luck to all racers and team captains.

It is an occasion for me to browse through my safari pictures. I attended together with Connie as a team captain five races from 2001 to 2005. The 2001 was just observing and training year for us. I completed the TWS in 2002, 2003 and 2005. In 2004, we drove to San Marcos, but the race was postponed due to flooding.

During recent years I had to restrict my racing adventures at distant locations. As a half time scientist with a poor funding I just cannot afford it. TWS including driving from Colorado to Texas and back, river scouting and the actual race, was usually taking almost two weeks of our time. And, I had to include that huge bribe for my team captain in the race costs …

2005 TWS. 5 minutes before the start at Aquarena Springs

2001 TWS. “Cowboys” running the old Rio Vista dam

2003 TWS. Spectators, racers, and team captains at Westerfield Crossing

2005 TWS. Scouting the Cottonseed Rapid before the race

2001 TWS. Traffic jam at the Cottonseed Rapid

2001 TWS. Wait for me! Another scene from the Cottonseed Rapid

2001 TWS. John Bugge driving a 9 person boat through the Cottoneseed Rapid. Current race rules limit boats to 6 persons.

2005 TWS. A nice green logjam on the San Marcos River below Luling. These logjams didn’t look so nice at night time.

2005 TWS. A morning at the Nursery Rapids on Guadelupe River

2005 TWS. Me, Connie and Spencer X-treme canoe at the Victoria checkpoint.

2005 TWS. Norm Thomas finishing at Seadrift

7 mile race open to all paddled and rowed boats. August 2nd, 2009 Frisco Marina, Frisco, CO. Highest and most scenic regatta in North America.
For registration and information: Frisco Rowing Center at Lake Dillon.
Great prizes and medals.

Related posts:
Dillon Reservoir at Mountain Wayfarer
November Paddling at 9,000 feet – Dillon Lake in Summit County, Colorado
9 Pictures from Paddling Lake Dillon, Colorado – Mountains, Sails and Dead Forest
Paddling in the Rain – Dillon Lake in Colorado Rocky Mountains

Wyoming Outback Challenge, 44 mile race on the North Platte River from Saratoga to Fort Steele is scheduled for May 24, 2009. For details contact the race organizers at CanoeColorado.com.

Related posts:
44 Miles of the North Platte River in 2 Minutes
44 Miles on Big Water – 2008 Wyoming Outback Challenge Results
7 Landmarks and Highlights of the 2008 Wyoming Outback Challenge
2007 Wyoming Outback Challenge on North Platte River- Results and Pictures
3 Days on the North Platte River in Wyoming: from Treasure Island to Fort Steele
Wyoming Outback Challenge on the North Platte River – Strong Current and Head Wind
North Platte River in Wyoming – Eagle Nest Rapid

2008 South Platte River Marathon – Rob Bean on St Vrain Creek preparing for the start

The South Platte River Marathon scheduled for April 25, 2009 covers 31 miles along some popular and less known, but scenic river segments. It starts on St Vrain River about 1 miles above its confluence with the South Platte and ends at Kuner. This is unofficial and unorganized race, so your are totally responsible for what are you doing on the river. The river flow looks good due to recent wet weather.

• Date: April 25, 2009
• Start: About 8 am at Wildcat on St Vrain – county road 19.5 (north of St Vrain Fort Power Station, take 245 Mead exit from interstate 25 and drive east to CR 19.5), see map. We can consider a staggered start (in that case the first paddler will start before 8:00).
• Length: 31+ miles. 5 short portages over diversion dams – you have to portage all dams.
• Shuttle. My wife Connie will help with a shuttle – we can take one extra boat and up to 3 paddlers from Kuner. So, we are not running a shuttle before the race.
• Please let me know if you are going to attend.

I paddled the marathon course alone 4 years ago. It took me 4:39 in Spencer X-treme canoe with a pretty good flow of 1600cfs at Kersey. Last year I raced with Rob Bean at much lower water level (~450cfs) and took me 5:46 in Thunderbolt-x kayak. If you are familiar with the 9 mile upstream Rotten Egg race, the marathon should take you about 1 hour longer, but with much lower effort and you don’t need to paddle back to the start.

2005 South Platte River Marathon – Marek and Dax preparing for the start on the shore of St Vrain Creek

Related posts:

32 Shallow Miles of the 2008 South Platte River Marathon
2005 South Platte River Marathon
South Platte River – GPS/photo map and guide
2009 Rotten Egg Race – Results, Pictures, Handicap System
2nd South Platte Upstream “Rotten Egg” Race – Results

Sunset during WaterTribe Ultimate Florida Challenge

2006
WaterTribe Ultimate Florida Challenge 2006 – Wayfarer’s Short Story
Around Florida in 19 Days by Kayak, Sailing Canoe and Sailboat
Talking about Ultimate Florida Challenge with Warren Richey – Sharkchow
Paddling Non-Stop on Still Water to Cover 144 Miles in 24 Hours?
Random Shots and Thoughts from WaterTribe Ultimate Florida Challenge 2006 – Part 1
WaterTribe Ultimate Florida Challenge 2006 in Media and on Web
Garmin Forerunner 305 or Edge 305 Fitness GPS for Paddlers?
Google Earth Map with GPS Track from Everglades Challenge 2004
Texas Water Safari: First-Time Team Captain Story
Random Shots and Thoughts from WaterTribe Ultimate Florida Challenge 2006 – Part 2

Paddling Sea Wind canoe on my local pond

2007

Double or Single Blade? Steve Landick on Paddles During a Long Expedition Voyage
How to Choose a Boat for an Ultra Marathon Race? The Case of Missouri River 340
An Introduction to Canoe and Kayak Flat Water Racing from British Canoe Union
Heather Nelson on Training for 2007 Molokai Race with 7 Great Tips
Music Video from ICF Canoe-Kayak World Championships 2006 Szeged, Hungary

Start of the 2008 South Platte River Marathon

2008

32 Shallow Miles of the 2008 South Platte River Marathon
Paddling Thunderbolt Kayak on Horsetooth Reservoir
Paddle the Wild West: 2008 Wyoming Outback Challenge on North Platte River

The 3rd Rotten Egg Race on March 22, 2009 gathered only two paddlers, Rob Bean and me, but we had a very intense fun and a great day on the river. We raced 9 miles upstream on the South Platte River from Kersey to Evans Riverside Park to meet the joint paddling club downriver trip.

Rob started at 7:08. I followed him 7 minutes later. We paddled the same boats as last year: Spencer X-treme canoe and Thunderbolt-X kayak. However, Rob switched from a single blade to a wing paddle and made a tremendous improvement – 45 minutes! I was a couple minutes slower than last year. We had a very low water, 317 cfs at Kersey, in comparison to 850 cfs last year.

Together with times I am also posting distance traveled by each racer (if we can believe our GPS). Certainly, water reading and choosing the course between sandbars and river legs have impact on the race time. In the recent race, Rob paddled 0.5 mile shorter distance than last year and only 0.05 mile more than me.

Related posts:

• South Platte River – GPS/photo map and guide
• 2nd South Platte Upstream “Rotten Egg” Race – Results
• Thunderbolt-X and Rapier 20 in the Upstream Race on the South Platte River
• Wildwater Racing Kayak on the South Platte River
• 61 Boats in the Sixth Annual South Platte River Joint Spring Paddle Trip

Every year, in the middle of March, paddling clubs in northern Colorado organize a joint trip on the South Platte River from Evans to Kersey or further to Kuner as an opening of paddling season. During recent years I use to launch my boat around sunrise at Kersey and paddle upstream to Evans to meet downriver paddlers. In last two years I was joined by other paddlers and an informal race was created. Eric Nyre name it “Rotten Egg” race (a trophy for the last finisher?).

I needed about 4:30 hours to cover 9 miles upstream in a fast cruising mode in Sisson Nucleus 100 kayak or Spencer X-treme canoe. I paddled Thunderbolt-X kayak in the first two years of the race reaching Evans in 3:37 (2007) and 3:25 (2008 at ~850cfs). This year we expect much lower water: 400cfs at Kersey or even less. See river pictures from the March 15 paddling.

The race starts at 7am, March 22, 2009 at Kersey (highway 37 bridge – map). This is exactly sunrise time this year. Slower paddlers may start earlier.

• This is unofficial and unorganized race, so your are totally responsible for what are you doing on the river.
• There are no entry fees and no awards. I am going to post all race times here, hopefully, with some pictures.
• Keep in mind that you need to paddle back from Evans to Kersey, so take extra drinks and food.
• You may get pretty cold at Evans after paddling 9 miles upstream – a change of cloths or a jacket are really welcome there.

• A cell phone may be useful for emergency. You can expect many boats running downriver, but they take a longer lunch stop at the Plumb Ditch Dam which may be good meeting point if you cannot reach Evans for any reasons.
• We will be asking the winner to establish the finish line and record time of arriving racers, but be prepared to record your starting and finishing time.

Please let me know if you are going to participate in the race, especially, if you are planning to start earlier (or later).

Evans to Kersey – 9 miles with 2 portages
Evans to Kuner – 14 miles with 2 portages

This is our annual joint clubs trip, where all the local paddle clubs come together for a spring social. Shuttle will leave at 9:30am from the Evans Ballfields This trip will follow the Colorado Paddlers Rules. For more information contact: Eric Nyre

Related posts:

• South Platte River – GPS/photo map and guide
• 2nd South Platte Upstream “Rotten Egg” Race – Results
• Thunderbolt-X and Rapier 20 in the Upstream Race on the South Platte River
• Wildwater Racing Kayak on the South Platte River
• 61 Boats in the Sixth Annual South Platte River Joint Spring Paddle Trip