Here’s the door latch assembly I replaced to fix this washer.

– Ryobi P882 One+ 18v Lithium-Ion Drill and Impact Driver Kit
– Ryobi TEK4 4-Volt Screwdriver
– JH Williams WRS-1 Magnetic Ratcheting Screwdriver
– BOSTITCH BTMT72275 Specialty Wrench Bit Set, 32-Piece
– Genau Gear 3730 Soft Cushion All Purpose Knee Pads, Navy Blue
– Motion Pro (08-0485) 6″ Magnetic Parts Dish
– SKIL 2354-01 iXO 4-Volt Max Lithium-Ion Palm-Sized Cordless Screwdriver
– Fluke 117/322 Electricians Multimeter and Clamp Meter Combo Kit
– Milwaukee 49-66-4562 Shockwave 1-7/8-Inch Magnetic Nutdriver Set
– 9 Piece Metric Quick Change Magnetic Nutsetter Set
– TEKTON 1916 Combination Wrench Set, SAE/Metric, 24-Piece
– MAXCRAFT 60199 1/4-Inch Dual-Drive Mini Ratchet Driver
– 62 Pc Metrinch Combo Spanner Socket & Wrench Set
– TEKTON 7609 Telescoping Lighted Inspection Mirror
– IIT 21560 Pick & Hook Set with Rubber Grip – 6 Piece
– Stanley 28-140 1-1/4-Inch Nylon Handle Stiff Blade Putty Knife
– Linzer 7103S Plastic Putty Knives, 3-Inch
– GE 50725 Cable Ties, Nylon Assorted Sizes, 650 Per Pack
– Sperry Instruments GFI6302 GFCI Outlet Tester
– TEKTON 1491 3/8-Inch Quick-Release Drive Swivel Head Ratchet, 72-Tooth Round Head
– TEKTON 7597 36-Inch Claw Pick-Up Tool
– TEKTON 7601 Telescoping Magnetic Pick-Up Tool
– Klein 11055 Klein-Kurve Wire Stripper/Cutter, Blue with Yellow Stripe, 10 – 20 ga.
– Klein Tools 1005 9-3/4-Inch Crimping and Cutting Tool for Insulated and Non-Insulated Terminals
– Custom LeatherCraft 1132 75-Pocket Tool Backpack
– Princeton Tec Apex 275 Lumen Led Headlamp
– Grease Monkey Gorilla Grip Gloves
– Custom Leathercraft 125M Handyman Flex Grip Work Gloves, Medium
– Knipex 002006S1 3-Piece Cobra Pliers Set (7-Inch, 10-Inch, & 12-Inch)
– Stanley 84-114 3 Piece Basic 6-Inch Slip Joint, 6-Inch Long Nose, and 6-Inch Diagonal Plier Set
– Stanley 66-095 3/8-Inch Vinyl Grip Square Blade Screwdriver
– Victorinox Swiss Army Deluxe Tinker, Red
– Victorinox Cordura Belt Pouch Swiss Army Knife Pouches Black 33214
– Bondhus 20399 Ball End L-Wrench Double Pack with BriteGuard and GoldGuard Finish
– Irwin Industrial Tools 2078700 6-Inch and 10-Inch Adjustable Wrench Set, 2-Piece
– Irwin Tools 36- 2 Piece Original Locking Pliers Set Contains: 1 Each 7WR and 6LN
– Set of 6 – Heavy Duty 6-Inch Steel Spring Clamp with PVC Grip
– MAXCRAFT 60626 8-oz. Stubby Claw Hammer
– Amprobe VP-440 Non-Contact Volt Detector
– Kintrex IRT0421 Non-Contact Infrared Thermometer with Laser Targeting
– McCulloch MC1230 Handheld Steam Cleaner
– ArmorAll AA255 Utility Wet/Dry Vacuum

Your Name: Flower

Type of Appliance: Refrigerator

Brand: whirlpool

Model Number: GS6SHAXMS00

Your Precious Words:
Fridge runs for 5-6 seconds at a time. Not enough time to cool off. Coils are clean, fan in rear is running fine. Its been 2 days and the freezer is totally defrosted and fridge is getting warm inside

This sounds to me like what we professional appliantologists call the “hum-click cha-cha.” That’s where, every few minutes, the compressor tries to start making that humming sound, but then clicks off. What’s happening is the compressor start relay has fried and is preventing the compressor from starting.





It’s a straight forward repair… if you just look out for a couple things shown in a couple of my videos below:

Your Name: Larry

Type of Appliance: Dryer

Brand:

Model Number: LGQ9508PWO

Your Precious Words:
Have read the post but what makes this strange to me is that it worked fine, moved it 20 feet, other side of the wall it was on, same exhaust connection and same gas line but new connections. Finished the move, fired it up and all that happened is the “pilot” flame ignited but the system did not kick in. Cloths do not dry.

Thoughts on this.

Thank you in advance.

This model does not have a pilot flame. What you’re seeing is the hot surface ignitor glowing momentarily but then going out because the gas valve is failing to open. This is a classic sign of bad gas valve coils. Very easy and inexpensive to replace. Watch videos on how to replace dryer gas valve coils for various dryer models.

Your Name: Emily

Type of Appliance: Washer

Brand: Frigidaire

Model Number: FWS223RFS1

Your Precious Words:
The machine squealed during the spin cycle on two separate occasions. I stopped and resettled the clothes and it was fine. Today it doesn’t spin at all. I have checked the belt and it looks fine. I have not yet investigated the pulley drive. I’m curious if it might be the timer. You mention the lid switch as a possibility. Which way should I investigate first (I’ll need to borrow tools). Thanks. I bow before to the Samurai Warrior of Appliance Repair. Cheers

The squealing noise is almost certainly the spin bearing, an inexpensive part and actually not hard at all to replace. And as long as you’ve got the machine torn down to replace the spin bearing, might as well replace the tub seal assembly while you’re at it because the leaking tub seal is probably what made the spin bearing go bad. Here are videos showing you how to replace these parts…

The no-spin condition is a little trickier because it could simply be the spin bearing is locked up, in which case, replacing it as shown above will take care of it. Or, it could be something else like a bad lid switch. You might want to go ahead and buy the lid switch at the some time you buy the spin bearing and tub seal so you’ll have it on hand. If it turns out you don’t need the lid switch, return it for a refund!

Replace the spin bearing and tub seal first because you definitely need to. If the washer still doesn’t spin, then go ahead and replace the lid switch, too. This video shows you how…

You had asked about the timer; there’s a very small possibility that the timer is bad but I think it’s very unlikely because I usually see the timers fail in a different way than what you’re describing. Lid switch, spin bearing, and tub seal are the most likely culprits. If you want to make sure, you can use you’re meter and see if you’re getting 120vac on the lid switch wire harness. We can give you details on how to do this in the Appliantology Appliance Repair Forums.

Your Name: Madonna

Type of Appliance: Washer

Brand: Whirlpool Duet Sport

Model Number: WFW8300SW01

Your Precious Words:
Have been getting SD error followed by F-21 error. Manually drained washer and checked for anything in the drain pump filter, nothing there. Plugged back in and did drain/spin cycle and the washer would drain. After manually draining this time and starting drain/spin cycle, just heard a hum. The drain motor was previously very load. It didn’t drain and this time I got a F-33 error and noticed the drain pump was very warm to the touch.

All of the error codes and symptoms you’re describing, including the loud drain pump, are all classic signs of one thing: replace the drain pump.

One of the characteristics of these washers is that when the drain pump starts making loud buzzing or grinding noises while running, the bearings in it are shot and the pump is no longer moving water out fast enough. The control board senses this and throws the various error codes you’re seeing, as if screaming out, “Replace my drain pump now!”

Here’s the replacement drain pump you need, comes with a one year return policy.

To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.

Your Name: Rob

Type of Appliance: Washer

Brand: Frigidaire

Model Number: GLTF2940es0

Your Precious Words:
Machine won’t spin. Ran though the diagnostics and it said code e47 – board thinks PTC circuit is open. From reading forums, I think I need a new wax motor, but I’m not sure which part number that is or what it looks like. Can you help? Thanks

The rule of thumb on Frigidaire front loaders is that for any error code in the 40’s, replace the lock assembly. I replace so many of them that I make sure to keep at least two on the Guru Mobile at all times. Here’s the door latch assembly you need:

Buy the new door latch assembly here and it comes with a one year return policy. In other words, if you install it and it doesn’t fix it (but it will), you can return it for a refund.

Watch The Appliance Guru in action as he shows you a special troubleshooting trick and how to replace it:

To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.

Your Name: Caleb

Type of Appliance: Dishwasher

Brand: Samsung

Model Number: DMT800

Your Precious Words:
Dishwasher is having a error code 9e, low water leavel, don’t seem to be able to find a part or a picture of the part or a picture of a part break down of the dishwasher. Searching internet for answers, no luck. Low leavel water float switch need to make repair. Don’t have a part # to order part. Can you help? Thank you for your time.

This is a classic symptom of a clogged sensor hose or the sensor itself has gookus on it. Here’s the part you need:

More info in this topic at the Appliantology Appliance Repair Forums: http://appliantology.org/topic/39554-samsung-dishwasher-drainsfillsbegins-cycle-then-shuts-down/

To learn more about your dishwasher, or to order parts, click here.

Your Name: felecia

Type of Appliance: Washer

Brand: Whrilpool Duet HT

Model Number: GHW9300PW4

Your Precious Words:
did a load of laundry came back threw it in the dryer and went to start another load and I noticed the control lock button is on. Now my washer is basically frozen. I tried unplugging and holding down the start and cancel buttons.

Piece of pie, tovarish! Press and hold the End of Cycle Signal button for 3 seconds. On some models, you need to hold it down for 5 seconds.

To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.

Your Name: Claudia

Type of Appliance: Washer

Brand: Amana

Model Number: NFW7200TW

Your Precious Words:
My Amana NFW7200TW washer will not power on. I had loaded a small load, heard it start to fill, then walked away for an hour. When I returned NO power.
I have power at the receptical, but unpluged it overnight. Checked water lines, one filter was plugged, so I cleaned it. Still no power.

If you confirmed that you have power at the receptacle (by using a meter or plugging in a lamp or something else) then it’s time to crawl into the belly of the beast. Actually, we’ll just be going into the control panel so it’s probably more accurate to say the “brain of the beast” but that just didn’t have the same rhythm and imagery that I was going for.

This is pretty easy to do. Just unplug the washer, remove the top panel, dispenser drawer, and a couple of screws in the front of the control panel, then tilt the control panel forward. These steps are demonstrated in this video.

Next, plug the washer back in and use your meter to check for 120vac at the control board in the locations listed in the image below in the “AC Power Check” section. Click the image for a larger view that opens in a new window.

If you’re getting 120vac up to the board and lights or anything on the control console, then you need to replace the control board. You can buy the replacement board here with a one year return guarantee.

If you’re not getting voltage to the control board, then you may have a bad connection somewhere and you’ll need to use your meter and the wiring diagram on the tech sheet (located in a pouch under the top cabinet panel that you removed to access the control board) to troubleshoot and find where you’re missing the voltage. I show you how to do this using real-world examples, including a front loading washer, in my seminal tome, “Using the Tech Sheet Schematic to Root Out Appliance Gremlins.”

If you need more help, come to the Samurai Appliance Repair Forums, become an Apprentice, and start a new topic for interactive repair help from Master Appliantologists. We’re here to help!

To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.

Your Name: Margaret

Type of Appliance: Oven/Range/Stove

Brand: GE Gas Downdraft Cooktop

Model Number: JGP389BEV4BB

Your Precious Words:
I can not turn of the knobs to ignite my gas cooktop burner. So the back right burner is now useless. How can we fix it?

This is a problem with the gas valve for the affected burner. The knob is attached directly to the bad valve. If you can use a screwdriver and a wrench and can fog a mirror, you can do this repair!

This diagram shows you how to do the repair, click it for larger view in a new window.

Here’s the replacement valve you need, comes with a one year warranty: http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Surface-Burner-Valve/WB21X5323/252638?RCAID=24038

Be sure to leak check the gas tube connection on the new valve after you get it installed. This video explains the basic idea.

To learn more about your range/stove/oven, or to order parts, click here.