Fixitnow.com Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Amana Refrigerator, Less Than Four Years Old, DOA and Amana Won’t Honor the Warranty

2008-08-08T17:28:41Z

I’ve been talking with a grasshopper via email about his Amana refrigerator (now a Whirlpool brand) with a sealed system failure. The refrigerator is less than four years old, still under warranty (the sealed system, which was the problem in this case, has a five year warranty) and Amana (Whirlpool) is refusing to honor their warranty. The “authorized” servicer told him the warranty was void due to “sulfur corrosion” and, for a bonus kick-in-the-pants, charged him an $80 service call fee!

Keep in mind that most appliance servicers are honest, hard-working, highly skilled and conscientious tradesmen who take pride in their craft. But this “sulfur corrosion” story is a lumpy line of bullshiest that is popular among the relatively small but odious underworld of sleazy appliance servicers. (Please note who the service company was in this story.) I’ve dealt with this very same issue before in this post.

Anyway, here’s another saga of slime in this same vein. Forewarned is forearmed!

Amana Refrigerator
Model ARB2517CB
S/N 10791906EA

With a growing family, we bought our new Amana refrigerator in November of 2004. We moved the old one, a smaller “starter” fridge to the garage, where it was happy to live on for a couple of more years as a beverage chiller and party food cooler. With the newfound storage capability of our brand spanking new Amana refrigerator, my family of 6 was thrilled, until recently.

On Sunday, July 20, 2008, three years and 8 months later. My brother-in-law and sister-in-law were visiting, and when I went to get ice out of the bag I had put in the freezer, I discovered it was melting. Formerly frozen meat surrounding the ice bag was thawed too. Strangely, the fridge still seemed cold though. We tossed out the contents of freezer, because we weren’t sure how long it had been unfrozen. We lost a lost of roasts we’d bought on sale. 2 for 1 is a good deal!

The next morning, July 21, 2008, I went to pour milk in my cereal and it didn’t feel cold. The milk smelled funny too. We poured the three gallons of milk down the drain, dumped the leftovers, put the condiments in a cooler with the cheese and veggies we could save. I thought that there might have been an ice build up on the coil due to the hot humid weather, so I figured we’d unplug it and let it thaw, then see if it got cold again. It didn’t. I located the manual, which I found had fallen behind the refrigerator, after I had torn up the house up looking for it, and discovered it had a 5 year warranty on major parts. I called the number listed in the book and talked to a Maytag Customer Care Specialist. They contacted A & E Appliance Repair to set up a time to come out and diagnose the problem. I was told it would cost me $79.95 for this diagnosis and that A & E only did warranty calls on Fridays. The soonest they could get me in would be August 1. It told them I thought that was ridiculous, and the customer care specialist told me I should call the number for Whirlpool Customer Care, as they were all under the same ownership. I was given the number and called. They could not connect me directly. I might add that every time I called I had to navigate multiple levels of voice prompts, and I can’t even remember how many times I had to give the model number and the serial number.

The Whirlpool Customer Care Specialist eventually contacted Household Centralized Service. Through a three-way call we set an appointment up for Friday, July 25, 2008. I was supposed to get a call telling me what “three hour window” the technician would arrive during. Instead, he suddenly shows up. My wife is home, luckily, and he looks over the fridge. He tells her the copper pipes have holes in them and some fluid is leaking. It is not repairable. He goes on two say that the sulfur from our well water is to blame for the corrosion, and we should have “painted” the copper tubes before bringing the appliance into the house. “Painting” after it was in the door would be a waste of time because it would just seal in the sulfur. He also said we should have bought a cheaper fridge, because they don’t use copper like the expensive one we had. He then leaves without any mention of what happens next. After hearing about all this from my wife, I call and talk to another Whirlpool Customer Care Specialist and ask what is going on. She says they will try to reach the technician on the radio to see what happened, because they don’t have his report yet. I am told the I will hear back from them on Monday or Tuesday “at the latest.”

On Tuesday, July 29, I call them in the morning, because I have not heard anything. I relay my story to a Whirlpool Customer Care Specialist and get connected to a supervisor. The supervisor tells me they still don’t have the report. She asks me, “Well, what do you want me to do?” I say: “You could call them again!” I am put on hold and get cut off. I needed to do some actual work at my desk, but I get a chance to call later in the afternoon. I ask the Whirlpool Customer Care Specialist to connect me with a supervisor. After a wait, I explain my situation again, and I am told that my problem is not covered by the warranty because the parts were not defective. I point out that it shouldn’t go bad so quickly, but they refuse any further action. I tell them how long my last fridge lasted (17 years), but nothing further can be done for me. I am told it is the sulfur from my water that caused the breakdown. I tell them what the technician said about painting the tubes, and they said that would be an unauthorized modification. I tell them that nothing in the manual says that people with well water should not buy this because it will soon fail, but still nothing can be done for me. I ask if there is anybody else I can speak with about my situation, and the man said he was the highest authority I could speak to. I then asked what nameplates their company sells under, and he listed them: Maytag, Amana, Jenn-Air, Whirlpool, Estate and Roper. I told him I wanted to be sure I never bought a single thing from them again, then our conversation ended.

Replacing the Thermostat in a Gas Range with Standing Pilot Ignition

2008-08-07T21:29:45-05:00

Zenzoidman posted a photo:

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For more help, go to www.fixitnow.com

Replacing the Thermostat in a Gas Range with Standing Pilot Ignition

2008-08-07T21:29:34-05:00

Zenzoidman posted a photo:

For more help, go to www.fixitnow.com

For more help, go to www.fixitnow.com

Replacing the Thermostat in a Gas Range with Standing Pilot Ignition

2008-08-07T21:29:24-05:00

Zenzoidman posted a photo:

For more help, go to www.fixitnow.com

For more help, go to www.fixitnow.com

Replacing the Thermostat in a Gas Range with Standing Pilot Ignition [Flickr]

2008-08-07T21:29:18-05:00

Zenzoidman posted a photo:

For more help, go to www.fixitnow.com

For more help, go to www.fixitnow.com

Replacing the Thermostat in a Gas Range with Standing Pilot Ignition [Flickr]

2008-08-07T21:29:16-05:00

Zenzoidman posted a photo:

For more help, go to www.fixitnow.com

For more help, go to www.fixitnow.com

Ice Maker Ice Mold Flaking Off Crud into the Ice

2008-08-07T18:19:39Z

Noticing some weird crud in the ice from your icemaker lately? You may have a defective mold, like the one shown here (click for larger view). A healthy ice maker should NOT look like this. This rough appearance is caused by the teflon coating on the ice maker mold flaking off, depositing Teflon flakes into your ice. Very hazardous to your long-term health! If yours looks like this, then you may be interested to know that ingesting Teflon causes systemic arthritis in all the joints. Think twice about using an icemaker with this affliction because eventually you’ll find your own body afflicted as well! The only cure is to replace the icemaker. Come git you one!

How to Replace the Ignitor in a Gas Oven: A Pictorial Guide

2008-08-06T20:26:59Z

If your gas oven isn’t firing up, start your diagnosis by checking the ignitor for the proper current draw. “Uh, do what?” you ax, with glazed eyes. Don’t be intimidated by techie-sounding procedures. This is simple stuff– if you can fog a mirror, you can measure current draw. This article explains how to make simple electrical measurements and this one explains what you’re looking for in the gas oven ignitor.

Once you’ve proven that the ignitor is drawing insufficient current (and, therefore, is the correct part to replace to fix the problem), use this handy pictorial guide to hepya change it out. NOTE: The pics shown here are all just thumbnails that link to the larger, annotated picture. Be sure to click ‘em for the larger view and so you can read the enlightening annotations.

The wiring for most range ignitors is accessed underneath the oven by removing the pots drawer, as shown here. Why do you need to access the wiring? Two reasons: 1) so you can measure the current draw and 2) it’s part of replacing the ignitor since the new one has to be wired in the same way as the existing one. Take note of where the wires go. The ignitor wires are not polarity-sensitive so don’t worry about “reversing” them.

In this particular range (a Maytag), I had to remove a covering panel to expose all the wires.

Here, I have my clamp-on ammeter on one of the ignitor wires to make a current draw measurement. You can see the closeup of the meter in the next pic.

You can see the current draw reading is 2.4 amps. For a square ignitor, such as this one (you’ll see it in a subsequent picture), the minimum acceptable current draw is 3.4 amps, well above what I’m measuring here. Obviously, in order to make this measurement, the oven has to be turned on and the ignitor getting voltage. This is a LIVE test, meaning there’s live voltage on the circuit. Fire in the hole! Fry yo ace if’n you ain’t careful, Hoss, so… BE CAREFUL!

On some ranges, you’ll need to remove the back panel to get to wiring for one or both ignitors (there’s one each for bake and broil). Yes, this means the range needs to be pulled out from the wall. In the case of a wall oven where the freakin’ engineers didn’t bother to make it service-friendly, you’ll need to remove the entire wall oven from the cavity. If this is the case with yours, you’ll quickly understand why I abhor wall ovens.

Here’s a typical bake ignitor. Note that this one is square. Some ranges, such as older Whirlpools and GEs, use a round ignitor. These two types of ignitors have different current draw specs and are made to be used with different types of valves. This means they are not interchangeable. So, if your range uses the square ignitors, you can only replace it with another square ignitor. The brand doesn’t matter since, by convention, all square ignitors have the same current draw and all round ignitors have the same current draw. For replacement square ignitors, I find that the Maytag universal square ignitor kit is the most cost-effective and reliable. I use this kit in all brands that require a square ignitor.

Note the finesse with which the Master handles his ¼” nut driver. It’s such beautiful poetry in motion that it makes me all verklempt. Or maybe it’s just allergies…

Sometimes, the head breaks off one of the ignitor retaining screws or, worse yet, the retaining screws are phillips screws and they wallow out on you. That’s what we call a Plot Complication (PC). A PC can be any event that results in the failure of the voluntary nervous system to contain a spontaneous convulsion of the autonomic nervous system as it spews voluminous streams of choice adult language, causing any casual observers present to wet themselves uncontrollably.

I can usually work the screw loose using my little channel lock pliers on the threaded of the screw. I’ll then replace the screw with a slightly bigger diameter machine screw with a pointed end and course threads so it cuts itself into the bracket. It ain’t gotta be perfect or purdy, all it’s gotta do it securely hold the ignitor in position.

Lots of times, you’ll need to remove the bake burner tube to allow enough room so you can run the wires for the new ignitor. You’ll usually find two screws securing the burner tube: one in back and…

…one in front.

Here’s the bottom of the oven, with the bottom pan, flame spreader, and burner tube all removed so we have unencumbered access to the bake ignitor wires.

On this range, I also removed the broil burner tube and the broil ignitor is left dangling, just itching to be replaced.

Again, on this particular range, and maybe in the one you’re working on, you’ll have to remove the back panel behind the range. Shown here is the wire harness connector for the broil ignitor. so you just need to connect the new ignitor wires to this harness connector– no need to go all the way back down to the gas valve, like in the bake connector.

So, there you be, Buddy-ree. Easy as pie and 1-2-3. If’n you need parts for your range, come buy ‘em from me. Merci!

Replacing the Wire Harness in the Maytag Dishwashers Included in the Recall

2008-08-05T16:11:25Z

Several months ago, Maytag announced a massive recall on several dozen models of its Maytag and Jenn-Air branded dishwashers. The corrective action in the recall was to replace the wire harness. This short video shows you how to do it.

War Story: Whirlpool Duet Sport Washer Full of Water and Won’t Pump Out

2008-08-04T17:22:56Z

It was a lazy summer afternoon when the call came in on the Samurai Hotline. I awoke from my saké-induced slumber and reached for my iPhone.

“Who gave you this number?” I demanded and then immediately hacked up a hairball. Musta been playing with the cats again whilst I was under the influence of the saké. But being a consummate master of customer relations, I swallowed it back down instead of spitting it out. See, attention to detail like that can make or break a service bidness. Finesse, man, finesse– that’s the name o’ dis game.

“Uhh, hello? Samurai?” the voice asked. “It’s your neighbor, Lucretia. I’m having a problem with the washing machine at my shop in town but it sounds like this is a bad time to call so I’ll just call back after you’ve sober…, er, I mean, when you have more time.”

Ah, sweet Lucretia. She runs the local powder puff shop where high power executives and money managers go to get their bottoms powdered. As you can imagine, her bidness generates lots of towels that need to be washed throughout the day so the washing machine is a critical piece of equipment for her shop.

“No, no, I’m fine,” I croaked, hacking up another hair ball and reaching for a cigarette butt in the ash tray. “I was just performing the essential inner eyelid inspection, looking for pinholes, dontcha know?”

“Uhh, OK…” she sounded unconvinced but persevered anyway. “Anyway, my washing machine is filled with water and won’t pump out. The dirty towels are piling up and I need help! Can you come today and fix it for me?”

“Ain’t no thang, little lady,” I assured her in my smoothest lounge lizard voice. “Lemme take a leak and I’ll come over taco-pronto to whup that bad boy back into shape fer ya!”

“Oh, thank you, Samurai! I knew I could count on you,” she exclaimed. “And if you get here within an hour, I’ll have an ice cold oil can of Foster’s Special Bitter waiting for you.”

Shazzam! Nothing like an offer for free beer to really get the Samurai gears a-grindin’! I bolted out of my easy chair and stumbled down to the Samurai Fixit Mobile with the cigarette butt I rescued from the ashtray. I lit the cigarette as I was peeling out of the driveway so I could look real important to the neighbors. One of my neighbors was out doing yard work and waved her fist at me in a show of solidarity as I sped by. I waved back, realizing that I would have looked *really* cool if I had lit the correct end of the cigarette. When you’re running an appliance service bidness, you have to always be working on improving your image. Details, Hoss– it’s all about the details.

When I arrived at Lucretia’s powder puff shop, I found the washer just like she said: full of water and wouldn’t pump out. Since this was one o’ them fancy-pants Whirlpool Duet Sport front-loaders, I knowed that the problem was likely a jammed pump.

So I pulled off the toe panel underneath the door so I could get to the pump cleanout lid, shown here. Usually, I find all kinds of goodies in there: coins, bobby pins, ear rings, tongue studs, nails, pebbles, used condoms just to name a few of the cherished treasures I’ve recovered. But this time was a little different.

I noticed a little piece of white ribbon sticking out of the pump suction port in the cleanout tube. “YES!” I thought to myself, in my best Engrish, “Easy fix! I’ll clear this, slap it back together and snag that cold Foster’s Bitter that Lucretia promised me.” Ahh, grasshoppah, but here is where the plot thickens.

I tugged on the ribbon and… it wouldn’t budge! Dayyam! The ribbon was wrapped around the pump impeller and, to remove it, the pump itself was going to have to taken apart and cleaned out. A simple three-minute repair just turned into an eight-minute nightmare! “AHHHH!” Don’t worry, I screamed inside my head so’s not to frighten Lucretia; after all, I *am* a professional! But all that screaming in my head made my ears ring. Or maybe it was from smoking the filter on that cigarette butt. Or could be more symptoms of the DTs.

But I digress. I was gonna have to pull the hoses off the pump, unbolt it and remove it completely from the machine so I could doctor on it up close and personal-like. It would take an extra five minutes and I was starting to get jazz hands from thinking about that Foster’s. In desperation, I summoned the gods of war to steady my hands long enough to get the pump out to complete the repair.

The gods of war made my hammer mighty and empowered me to remove the pump and pull it apart to unwind the ribbon from around the pump impeller. You can see the emancipated pump in its two main pieces here: the impeller on the rotor shaft and the pump housing with the stator winding. I reassembled the pump, slapped it back in the washer and checked for proper operation. Problem solved!

True to her word, Lucretia handed me a Foster’s Special Bitter that was so cold it almost cracked my last remaining tooth. After a few slugs, my hands steadied enough that I could drive the Samurai Fixit Mobile to the local brewpub and complete my fermentation therapy.

Gas Oven Taking Longer to Pre-Heat

2008-08-02T05:28:43Z

Dave wrote:

My maytag gas oven is taking longer to pre-heat. What do I check?

You need a new ignitor, such as the one shown here in the thumbhail pic. Click it to git it, install it and you’re good to go. Slam dunk.

Some background reading, if you want to know more:

Troubleshooting a Gas Oven That Won’t Fire Up

Making Basic Electrical Measurements

Replacing the Belt on a Maytag Dryer - Model LDE9824ACE

2008-08-02T04:10:54Z

Sublime Master Trying to help offers some indispensable tips on this repair to a young apprentice in the Samurai Appliance Repair Forums, including a link to the service manual. Come on, let’s listen in…

If you need to buy the belt or any other part for your dryer, buy your appliance parts here. Domo!

Whirlpool Washer Won’t Spin

2008-08-03T12:29:09Z

tony wrote:

my whirlpool washer do not spin, it is about two years old.

No model number given so I don’t know if this washer is a top-loader or a Whirlpool Duet front-loader. However, based on the improper conjugation of the verb “to do” in your problem statement and my razor-sharp Samurai insight, I intuit that you have a top-loading washer. Here, then, are some choice selections of past posts I’ve written on this very problem:

Whirlpool-Kenmore Direct-Drive Washer with a Lazy Spin

Haikus for Appliance Repair

Whirlpool Washer Won’t Spin

Is it Worth Replacing a Broken Coupler on a Whirlpool or Kenmore Direct Drive Washer?

Kenmore Washer Won’t Spin

Mailbag: Making Simple Repairs Complicated

Mailbag: Whirlpool Washer No Spin Problem

Once you figger out what’s wrong, you can come git your parts ratcheer. If you’re still confoosed and need more help, come see us in the Samurai Appliance Repair Forums and we’ll hepya some mo’.

Oven Temperature Sensors

2008-07-31T03:54:02Z

So, you’ve determined that your oven sensor is bad. You did this by getting an error code on the ERC and then looking up the code with a little help from your Master Appliantologist friends at the Samurai Appliance Repair Forums. As a dutiful Apprentice Appliantologist, your next step is to test the sensor resistance using this pearl of appliantological wisdom as your Spirit Guide. You know how to measure resistance with an ohm meter because you’ve read this basic primer on making simple electrical measurements. But now a new problem confronts you: which wires do you put your meter probes on to measure the resistance?

Ahh, grasshoppah, unfurl that brow and unbunch those panties while you swill your flavorite fermented beverage. Then let the Samurai take your trembling hand and gently guide you to Appliance Nirvana®.

First, open the door to your oven and peer intently at the upper left hand and right hand corners of the oven cavity. There, nestled discreetly and out of the main view, ye shall find something looking like unto this picture (click it for a larger view). Behold the sensor! In this picture, it’s shown dangling from its wires because I already removed the two mounting screws. Normally, it’s pointing strait out toward the door. Notice the color and diameter of the two wires attached to the sensor. Notice also how they run back behind the oven cavity. On some models (most Maytags, for example), you can ever-so-gently coax the wires through the hole and a quick release connector will come through, allowing you easy access to the ends of the wires from which you can make your resistance reading and even replace the entire sensor without having to pull the range out from the wall.

On other models, whose engineers were not as thoughtful (notably GE), you’ll need to pull the entire range out from the wall, presenting a significant scratching hazard to your floor and eliciting one or more adult words from your lips. After removing the back panel you’ll see where the sensor wires connect to another pair of larger wires that run up to the ERC in the control panel. The connection will either be a quick connect harness or wires nuts, like the ceramic ones shown here. Either way, simply undo the connection and then you have the free ends of the sensor wires on which to make your resistance measurements (and to replace the sensor).

If you need to buy a new sensor for your oven or range, come git you one ratcheer.

Fried Timer on a Maytag MDB5000AWW Dishwasher

2008-08-08T17:36:39Z

So you’re happily running your Maytag dishwasher one day, getting the Alpo scrubbed off of your dinner plates when your nostrils are assaulted by a burning smell. You quickly check the pair of skivvies you’re wearing and, finding them to be (reasonably) clean, you discover that Da Schmeel is indeed wafting from your Maytag dishwasher. Your mind shifts from peering intently into your britches and snaps into troubleshooting mode as you open the control panel on the dishwasher, seeking the source of the burning smell. Your keen Vulcan squinties immediately spot a group of burnt wires on the timer harness, similar to what’s shown here (click the pic for the larger view).

“WTF?” you exclaim, in astonishment and horror.

Turns out that there is a recall on this dishwasher for a problem with the rinse aid dispenser. Although the depicted problem was not caused by this, but was instead due to loose connections at the timer wire harness, there’s still a good chance that Maytag will cover it for you. Worth a call, right? Here’s the number to the Maytag Recall Team: 1-800-675-0535.

And in case they don’t cover it, here’s the part link to the timer if you want to replace it yourself. Easy job, half a mug on the world-famous SUDS-o-meter.

High Altitude Service Call

2008-07-30T16:28:43Z

Living up here in New Hampshire, I do service calls in some remote places. Here’s a picture of a service call I did at a high mountain cottage in the White Mountains. Carrying all my tools up the mountain was tough on my bad back. And then those hikes all the way back down the mountain to get parts out of my van… OY! I think maybe I’m getting too old for this bidness.

Refrigerator Blowing Warm Air in the Icebox

2008-05-09T00:30:35Z

Bob Kazmerchek wrote:

Hi,
My 2001 Whirlpool refrigerator has stopped cooling anything. It still runs and I believe the fan must be still working - but the air being blown into the icebox is not cold. Nothing freezes and nothing is cold in the main part of the refrigerator. Is it worth it for me to pay a repairman $65 just to come look at it or should I just buy a new one.
Thanks!
Bob K.
P.S. I vacuumed any dirt that was on the coils but that didn’t help.
7 years for a fridge seems so short.

My first move on this fridge would be to see if the compressor is actually running and not just doing the infamous hummm-CLICK. Once I verify that the compressor is starting and running normally, then it’s time to tear apart the freezer. Everything comes out and the back wall gets removed so I can feast my calibrated eyeballs lovingly upon the evaporator coil while the compressor is running. What I’m looking for here is the frost pattern on the coil. Based on your complaint, I’d expect to see one of three situations (doesn’t matter if your fridge is a side-by-side or top-and-bottom, the frost patterns are the same in all configurations so don’t let the variations in the pictures confuse you):

No Frost At All
This is bad. Remember, we’re looking at this coil with the compressor running, so if everything was peachy, I’d expect to see a light sheen of frost on 2/3 of the coil. No frost at all means either the compressor is “plum wore out” (that’s a technical term, please don’t use it unless you have a valid EPA refrigeration certificate) or the freon has leaked out. Either way, for most refrigerators today, that means you’re going shoppin’.

Single Glob of Frost or Iceball
This is also bad, and same deal as above. Same remedy, too.

Heavy Frost on the Coils
This is good! This indicates a defrosting system failure which is a simple control problem. It also means that the sealed system (compressor, evaporator coil, and all associated tubing) is fine as wine in summertime. Defrost system problems are easy fixes that anyone with a pulse can do with maybe just a little help from their friends. The problem will either be the defrost timer (or Adaptive Defrost Control board, if so equipped), the defrost thermostat, or the defrost heater. To locate these parts in your fridge, check out these cool, interactive parts diagrams.

If you’re still confoosed about disassembly or about what you’re seeing, come talk to us in the Samurai Appliance Repair Forums for personalized, interactive help from Master Appliantologists, including yours so very freaking truly.

Electric Clothes Dryer Power Cord Conversion

2008-05-07T01:37:52Z

susan wrote:

I need to change the wiring on Electric clothes dryer from 4 wire to 3 wire plug. original 4 wire was color coded but the 3 wire is not. am i to assume that the middle one is the neutral and the other two can go on either post? Hope you can help me - thanks!

When it comes to electrical stuff, I follow this hard and fast rule: NEVER ASSUME ANYTHING! And the truth is that in this modern age of readily available, inexpensive (even after accounting for inflation), and easy-to-use multimeters, you don’t have to!

Let’s take a look at your three-wire power cord, like this one ratcheer. Notice that it has two straight spades set at an angle and the middle spade is L-shaped; this is so that it can only fit into special electric dryer outlets like this one. That L-shaped spade is for the neutral connection and should correspond to the middle conductor. Note that I said “should.” This is where we get to the part about not assuming anything; and we don’t have to ‘cuz it’s easy enough to verify using our multimeter.

What’s that you say, you don’t even have a multimeter much less know how to use one? Well, now, that’s a problem that’s easily remedied! Kommen zie hither, bittë, and grok ye on my world-famous quick ‘n eazy guide to making basic electrical measurements. Go on, click it and read it over real quick-like, I’ll wait. Pay particular attention to the part about making continuity measurements ‘cuz that’s where we’re going with all this.

See? Was easy, da tovarish? Now, just take your multimeter and set it to measure resistance so we can do a continuity check. With one probe on the L-shaped spade and the other probe on the middle terminal at the other end of the cord, you should read full continuity. If you do, then you’re good to go– you have just verified that the middle wire of the cord is the neutral wire.

To learn more sweet mysteries of dryer cord wiring, come hither. And if you need parts, repair manuals, or accessories for your dryer, come git you some!

Kenmore / Frigidaire Front-Loading Washing Machine Fills with Water but Won’t Run

2008-05-05T18:12:31Z

william pearson jr wrote:

Have a kenmore front load washer that will not start only fill with water model # 41741042000 can you help me

The first thing I’ll help you with is punctuation. Start with this handy, concise punctuation guide; go ahead a bookmark it now. In particular, focus your bloodshot squinties on the first step in the guide:

The question mark ( ? ), used at the end of a sentence, suggests an interrogatory remark or inquiry.

This is especially important when you’re writing to someone at their website and requesting their expert advice. Contrary to the opinion of the Great Unwashed Illiterati (GUI), the Internet is still largely a written medium despite the proliferation of Youtube and porn sites.

And commas are nice, too.

As for your washer, the problem could be one of several things. But rather than write a bunch of techno-twaddle that no one bothers to read, I’m going to tell you how to start troubleshooting this yourself and how you can get more help if you need it.

If you’ll remove the bottom quarter panel from the front of the washer (two 1/4″ hex screws at the very bottom) and then peer intently into the dark compartment using appropriate artificial illumination, you’ll find a large envelope pasted to the inside of one of the side walls. Therein ye shall find detailed tech sheets, complete with troubleshooting guide and wiring schematics. Extract from envelope using your preferred hand and grok said material intently whist consuming your flavorite fermented grain beverage.

If, after consuming sufficient quantities of aforementioned beverage, you find yourself no closer to a solution, come ye hither and pour out your love-libation to the Samurai Appliance Repair Forum, start a new topic in the Laundry Appliance Repair Forum and we shall gladly assist you. And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall make you free.

Desperately Seeking Chill

2008-05-05T00:42:37Z

Temple Romberg wrote:

I am desperate. They say my refrigerator is not fixable due to a clogged defrost line. i don’t believe them and want to try to fix it myself. we can’t aford a new one. My husband is a football coach and not very good atthis stuff, but i want to give it a try. I am desperate. Thanks.

Awwite, darlin’, time to roll up your sleeves, grab ‘hold of them fem-nads and dominate that beast! Then come grok ye on this repair tome to kick some cool back into your box… er, icebox, that is.

Replacing the Door Latch Assembly in a Kenmore / Frigidaire Front Loading Washing Machine

2008-05-04T20:16:40Z

paul cowan wrote:

I have a Sears 417.42142100 front loading washer. I have the tech sheet and I have followed it. I am pretty sure that I have a problem with the door switch.
How do i replace it? Getting the back off and performing electrical checks is easy, How do I get the front off to get at the door switch?

Ahh, Grasshoppah, this is one of those repairs where less is more. If you were to actually remove the front panel, you would find yourself wallowing in the Pit of Perpetual Despair (POPD) and lamenting the resulting mess that you had created.

Come with me now on a Journey of Grand Illumination (JOGI) and observe the Technique of the Master (TOTM)…

You mentioned that you have already procured the Door Switch Assembly (DSA) for your model. For others reading this post, you should use your model number and look up the door switch assembly for your specific model since there are a couple different versions out based on model number.

Wisdom! Let us attend! Here, now, I present the TOTM that you’ve all been longing and panting for. Wallah! Uhhh… you know you can click the little pic to enlarge it and read the illuminating commentary, don’t you? Oy! Anyway, once you remove the Top Panel (TP) and peel back the Door Boot (DB), it’s all plug n’ chug. Reattach the DB to the front panel with a couple strategically-placed dabs of rubber cement.

Now, if Allah has not grinned down upon you and it turns out you have the older style DSA for this machine, well, let’s just say that there ain’t no virgins waiting for yo azz in Paradise, if’n you get m’drift, Slick. Nawsir, you’re in for a bit of Weeping and Gnashing of Teeth (WAGOT). You’ll have a bunch of wire chasing to do and chances are you’ll screw it up the first five tries. The DSA kit comes with instructions but, of course, they suck. The anatomy layout picture shown here will hepya but, dayyam, I’m glad I ain’t you. Been there, done that.

Latest Bosch Dishwasher Use and Care Manual

2008-05-04T18:29:34Z

For Models: SHE44C / SHE46C / SHE47C / SHE56C / SHU43C / SHX46A / SHX46L / SHX43E / SHV46C / SHE43F / SHE43M / SHX43M / SHE45M / SHV45M / SHX45M / SHE55M

In case you lost yours, you can borrow my copy. Just be sure to return it when you’re done. Domo!

If’n you need parts for your dishwasher, come git you some! And if you’re having a problem with it, come start a new topic in the Samurai Appliance Repair Forums and we’ll hepya whup-up on that bad boy.

Frigidaire / Kenmore Washer Makes Loud Noise in Spin

2008-05-04T13:16:55Z

cl jansen wrote:

I have an almost 6 yearold kenmore frontload model 907C4106200 that has just in the last month started leaving grease or somthing on my clothes and gets very loud in the spin cycle. I was told that is was the rear bearing? cost 800.00 to fix. this was diagnosed over the phone. What do you think?

I think it’s time to stop relying on phone or Internet diagnoses and do your own!

Remove the back panel. If you see a scat-job looking mess back there, like shown in the thumbnail (click to enlarge), then you have the infamous failed drum bearing. This is one whopper of a job, even for seasoned techs. Now may be a good time to go shopping. But, if you’re looking to indulge your inner masochist, this topic in the repair forum will get you started with the repair.

Maytag Appliance Use and Care Manuals

2008-05-04T01:47:42Z

Roni Finkelstein wrote:

Your Precious Words: I own a Maytag Neptune clothes washer but have lost the manual. What does the “colors” button do as opposed to the “whites” button?

Normally, you could just download a new manual from the Maytag website. But the clever webmeisters at Maytag, ever thinking of you, the consumer, have added something special. Note with awe their slick Adobe flash presentation. If you move your mouse over the block that says, “Manuals and Literature,” the words move up and more words appear saying, “Download PDF owner manuals & product brochures.” Now click your mouse and… nothing happens! It’s brilliant! I need to do stuff like that here at my site: slick-looking but non-functional visuals. Awwwesome!

Use the Forum, Luke!

2008-05-04T01:47:54Z

One of the main features of this site is the whirled-flamous Samurai Appliance Repair Forum. Grasshoppers by the buttload, er, I mean, boatload come to the forum for expert help from Master Appliantologists with their insolent appliances.

Recently, Grasshopper Ed joined the forum and sent me a private message (PM) from within the forum:

I have a sub zero ref model 561 serial number M739803.

Freezer is working fine but the refrigerator set at 10 on the thermostat isn’t cooling teh refrigerator it only get to around 52 degrees and I believe it should get cooler than that? Any suggestions?

Ed

I politely reply and tell him he should post his question in the forum because, afterall, this *is* a forum and that’s how things are done… in a forum. He then emails me:

from Edward Gronske egronske@g****.com
to samurai
date Sat, May 3, 2008 at 6:18 PM
subject RE: New PM from Samurai Appliance Repair Man

If I wanted to do that why would I have sent a private message - how do I go about getting a refund, I didn’t know I had to do this via the common message board.

So, lemme get this straight: he comes to an appliance repair FORUM for help, pays five measly beans for a lifetime forum membership and then cops ‘tude because *GASP* he has to actually post a question in the forum to get help!? It’s not like he would have had to divulge that he wears his mother’s underwear or licks urinals at the Texaco or anything personal and private. I mean, c’mon, it’s appliance repair not True Confessions!

Folks, puh-leaze, don’t be a cheesedork like our dearly departed Ed. If you need appliance repair help, start a new topic in the appropriate forum. PMs are great for questions about how to use the forum, what kinda beer ya drinkin’, how’s your momma an’ them, etc. But the real power of a forum is that others can come along and add to the discussion and/or benefit from it.

Domo!