Folie à Deux

Tiramisù Rustico del Cioccolato

2010-03-12T15:00:00.010-05:00

On my first trip to Rome, I broke my tiramisù virginity at Pompi, a local bakery on the outskirts of the city. It was the best-est tiramisù I've had, and since then, I have been chasing after that perfect addiction. And just like many things in life, it's hard to forget the first time, especially when it's this good!

So, get your spatulas and electric beaters ready! This is one easy tiramisù recipe that you'll want to keep for your files. It is fast, fun, indulgent, but easy-to-make. And you don't have to worry about presenting it perfectly because we can get away by calling it "rustic". Now, I don't claim this recipe to even come close to Pompi's, but once in a while, I feel like emulating my travels through food as I have written here. I like to use quality Italian ingredients in the hopes of whipping up a semi-decent version of this pick-me-upper dessert.

Tiramisù Rustico del Cioccolato (Rustic Chocolate Tiramisù)

1 8-ounce (225 g) Savoiardi or lady fingers (*I used Roland from Italy)
1/2 cup brewed espresso or strong coffee
1 8-ounce mascarpone cheese (*I recommend Galbani Mascarpone from Italy)
1 cup whipping cream
1/4 cup powdered sugar, packed
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 tablespoon coffee liqueur
2 tablespoons chocolate liqueur
1 ounce white chocolate baking square, grated
1 ounce semi-sweet or bittersweet chocolate, grated (*I used 62% cacao, somewhere in between semi- and bittersweet)
unsweetened cocoa powder for dusting (*I like Cacao di Pernigotti)

Line the bottom of an 8x8x2 baking pan with lady fingers; cut to fit. Drizzle half the espresso or coffee over ladyfingers.

In a bowl, beat mascarpone cheese, whipping cream, powdered sugar, and vanilla with electric mixer, until soft peaks form. Beat in the coffee and chocolate liqueurs just until combined.

Evenly spread half the mascarpone mixture over bottom layer of lady fingers. Sprinkle grated white chocolate and dark chocolate on the mascarpone mixture. Top with another layer of lady fingers, drizzle biscuits with coffee once again, and spread the remaining mascarpone mixture.

Cover and chill for 6 to 24 hours. Sift unsweetened cocoa powder on top when ready to serve.

This is a half portion of the 8x8x2 in the recipe.

Rustic and delicious!

Ok. So, for the grated chocolate that's sprinkled in between layers of lady fingers, I used Scharffen Berger chocolate. It's not Italian, but it's still damn good artisan chocolate from America! And since I don't have a Bialetti Espresso Maker, I used an instant espresso powder from Italy to make my cup of coffee for drizzling over lady fingers.

This heavenly can of Cacao di Pernigotti can be purchased through Williams-Sonoma. Rich and decadent, ideal for brownie recipes or a piping hot cup of cocoa.

And my favourite vanillas, liqueurs, and eau-de-vies are from Neilsen-Massey, also available through Williams-Sonoma. For my tiramisù, I used Neilsen-Massey Tahitian vanilla extract (blue label), coffee essence, and chocolate liqueur, as pictured below.

A taste of this dessert will definitely take you on a trip down la dolce vita. I bid you arrivederci! for now. Have a great modo Italiano weekend!

Le Petit Déjeuner Journal

2010-03-10T11:45:00.006-05:00

It is unfortunate that most of us aren't able to sit down for a proper breakfast, except on vacation or during the weekends. But then again, this relative inaccessibility makes it much more of a special occasion. To me, le petit déjeuner is meant to be a lazy affair; something that encourages you to lean back and enjoy, with minimal time constraints.

Perhaps, that is why the brunch concept here in North America has reached atomic heights! Move over, elaborate dinners with family and friends! The new wave is the brunch get-together! Nothing stirs the day alive like waking up ravenous, then assembling for a lingering tête-à-tête at home or at your favourite neighbourhood joint.

Sometimes, a quick jaunt to the local farmer's market can produce a sweet, hassle-free start to the day.

Whether it is a decadent savoury sandwich, stuffed omelet, fresh baked goods, crepes and waffles, or fruits and yoghurt, the first meal of the day is often accompanied by fresh fruit juice, chocolat chaud, coffee, tea, or even a morning mimosa. This is how we like breaking the fast, and we have been fortunate to enjoy such liberties at home and in our travels.

Breakfast Bird's Nest - frazzled egg on a nest of bacon and potato rosti with arugula salad

Croissanwich - Canadian bacon, herbed scrambled egg, tomatoes, and aged Cheddar. Served with orange-mango sparkling water and caramel fleur de sel macarons.

A Moroccan repast of traditional harcha (pan-fried semolina cakes), beghrir (honeycomb pancakes), and local pastries served with butter, jam, and honey.

Rooftop morning meal in Essaouira - honey-lemon loaf, croissant, rghaif (traditional Moroccan fried pancakes), served with the usual sides of butter, jam, and honey. Also with fruits, yoghurt, freshly squeezed OJ and mint tea.

A typical Filipino breakfast - boneless bangus (milkfish) with sinangag (garlic rice), fried egg, with a side of calamansi (a local lemon-lime) and onion - can also be doused with a bit of soy sauce or spicy vinegar.

It's never too early for sausages in Germany or elsewhere - curry wurst, bratwurst, Baden Baden wurst, Oktoberfest franks with tangy sauerkraut. It may be too early for a beer, though.

Santorini sunrise - fresh baked vanilla-coffee cake, breakfast rolls, a couple of sweet nectarines along with fresh juice and coffee.

Virginia ham and Cheddar cheese omelet with fried potatoes and oil-and-vinegar mixed greens salad.

Plain yoghurt sweetened by raspberries and crunchy granola with petit viennoisserie in the background.

Eggs Benedict with Berkshire ham and Gruyere cheese topped with Hollandaise sauce.

Huevos Rancheros - fried egg with deconstructed avocado, tomato, black bean salsa with tortilla triangles. In the background, Belgian waffles with whipped cream, syrup, and fresh blueberries.

Raw ingredients for my unconventional Croque Monsieur - Italian pancetta and French Comté cheese.

My version of Croque Monsieur - grilled Challa bread (or egg brioche) with tomatoes, oven-baked Italian pancetta, and melted French Comté cheese on a bed of baby arugula.

A sweet life - chocolate pear croissant, raisin bun, and fig crumble square.

It's Literally in Reel Life!

2010-03-05T15:00:00.021-05:00

Once in a while, I like to write about stuff that inspires me to travel. This post is about fictional literary and cinematic characters that made me pay attention to the actual or imagined locale in which the protagonists' story unfold. Here are just some from my numerous favourites (I anticipate a part 2 or 3 coming).

1) Character: Tony Montana
Movie: Scarface
Location Inspiration: Miami

Watch Scarface movie trailer here Warning: contains scenes of mature subjects.

When Tony Montana and right-hand man Manny Ribera begin their rise up the thug ranks, they chill out by the pools of The Fontainbleau Hotel in Miami Beach (actual location). Although the hotel has long been renovated, it maintains its louche and decadent vibe. There are 8 restaurants on site, including: James Beard-awarded chef, Alfred Portale's Gotham, as well as the revolutionary Chinese restaurant from UK, Hakkasan. But to experience the legacy of Cuba's Mariel Boatlift, visit Miami's Little Havana district, the hub of Cuban exile community.

2) Characters: Francis, Peter, and Jack
Movie: The Darjeeling Limited
Location Inspiration: The State of Rajasthan, India

Although The Darjeeling Limited Train in the movie is a fictitious creation, it evokes romantic reveries of the slow road through India. The movie was shot mainly in the northern state of Rajasthan, India, specifically in Jodhpur and Udaipur. Popular attractions in Rajasthan are the palaces of Jaipur, the grand monuments of Jodhpur, the lakes of Udaipur, the desert forts of Jaisalmer, the temples of Bikaner, and the Thar Desert near the Pakistani border. The quirky stylings of The Darjeeling Limited movie, with its Louis Vuitton-designed travel luggage, spurred me to include this part of India into my most-wanted destination list!

In the capital of Jaipur, the raw grandeur of Samode Palace Hotel is enough to hold anyone a willing hostage for a few days.

The natural beauty of Udaipur, with its lakes and beechen woods, is among the top attractions in the country. Taj Lake Palace on the banks of Lake Pichola offers a respite from the sun's heat.

3) Characters: Hercule Poirot
Movie: Death on the Nile (based on Agatha Christie's novel)
Location Inspiration: Cruising the Nile River, Egypt

Plying Africa's longest river is Egypt's Belle Epoque steam ship, The Sudan. It is also the setting for Agatha Christie's murder-mystery novel (subsequently made into a movie of the same name in 1978). Sleuth on deck with a classic cocktail or channel your inner writer in the panoramic Agatha Christie suite.

Or stay at the Old Cataract Hotel in Aswan, where the author penned the above novel, as well as where some scenes of the movie were filmed. *As of press time, the hotel is closed for renovations for 2 years.

by goldtoblue from Flickr

4) Characters: Julia, Lucy, and Bea
Movie: Hideous Kinky (based on Esther Freud's memoirs)
Location Inspiration: Marrakech, Morocco

Although we stayed in two lovely riads in Marrakech - here and here - last year, there are many other guesthouses worth exploring. Like the Italianate-Orientalist Dar Darma in the heart of the Marrakech medina. Tip: opt to stay inside the medina, where all the action is!

5) Characters: Port and Kit Moresby
Movie: The Sheltering Sky (based on the book by Paul Bowles)
Location Inspiration: The Sahara Desert

Warning: may contain scenes with mature subjects.

Journey in style with El Khiam Ahlam's desert caravan and sleep under the starry Sahara skies in luxury canvas tents.

Do you have your own literary or cinematic inspirations?

How To Eat Like A(n) _____ Locally

2010-03-01T13:45:00.002-05:00

No matter where you live, it is possible to emulate your favourite culture at home. Obsessing about French sophistication? Ruminating about la Italian dolce vita? Yearning for the laid back life you had in Thailand? Mulling over Mexican fiestas? There are many ways to channel your inner internationalist locally. Learning the language is, perhaps, the most noble of intents, but even that takes time! In my opinion, the easiest way to instant gratification is through food - a topic dear to my heart (and belly). Today, it's about Italy and France.

A little bit of Italy in your life with mozzarella di bufala.

In a Caprese salad...

In a Pizza Margherita...

Nothing screams "French!" more than dairy...

A rum-soaked mini Balzac gateau...ooh-la-la!

A Provencal chocolate lime tart...

Go ahead. Indulge.

Hoarding Historic Hotels in Havana

2010-02-22T11:45:00.012-05:00

Tourism is Cuba's moneymaker / cash cow / grubstaker / gold mine / El Dorado. In 2008, 2.3 million visited Cuba, of which 35% are Canadians. As a natural result, hotels and resorts are apace to become world-class, especially in the much-visited capital of Havana. Having said that, it's premature to expect international standards of service and amenities, since tourism is, considerably, a new development for Cuba. As a general rule, it is prudent to practice a niggling of patience whenever you encounter inconveniences in this Caribbean country, rather than kick up a fuss. However, the friendliness and goodwill of the people will more than make up for any systemic deficits.

Below is a list Colonial-style hotels with oodles of potential - from their majestic facades, to their grand atriums, and to the histories attached to each place. Admittedly, facilities beyond the lobby oftentimes fall short of expectations. But keep in mind, this is Cuba!

Hotel Ambos Mundos
153 Calle Obispo esquina (corner) Mercaderes
Notables: Ernest Hemingway penned the opening chapters of "For Whom The Bell Tolls" in room 511.

The bright, coral facade of Hotel Ambos Mundos

Tile work by the entrance of the hotel

Hotel Raquel
103 Calle Amargura esquina San Ignacio
Notables: Listed as a "Jewish-themed hotel" - not sure what that really means, but it may be because the hotel has a Jewish restaurant and decorative items pertaining to the faith. The Art Nouveau lobby speaks volumes.

The breezy, Art Nouveau marble lobby

Stained glass dome in the atrium

Hotel Sevilla
55 Trocadero e Prado y Zulueta
Notables: A long list of prestigious guests - from diplomats to movie stars - but most well-known as a bolthole for notorious gangster Al Capone, who occupied the entire 6th floor.

Costumed greeters and musicians welcoming guests to Hotel Sevilla

Moorish-and-Colonial-style lounge

Hotel Florida
Calle Obispo esquina Cuba
Notables: The glass-roofed, Cuban Colonial-style central courtyard is reason enough to linger with a cup of coffee or a cocktail.

The iconic statue by the entrance

The bright, colonnaded atrium

Hotel Plaza
267 Ignacio Agromonte
Notables: Anna Pavlova, Isadora Duncan, and Albert Einstein have all passed through its doors.

The pink and white lobby

Hotel Inglaterra
416 Paseo del Prado
Notables: French actress Sara Bernhart, Italian bullfighter Luis Mazzantini "the Skillful One", and General Antonio Maceo "The Bronze Titan" of the Cuban War of Independence have all stayed in Cuba's oldest hotel.

Just outside the hotel

Hotel Telegrafo
408 Paseo del Prado esquina Neptuno
Notables: After the undersea Atlantic telegraph cable was laid from Havana, Cuba to Key West, Florida, the hotel provided a telephone on each room and dining table.

The hotel's blue facade

Vintage poster of the Cuban American Telephone & Telegraph Company

NH Parque Central
Neptuno esquina Prado y Zulueta
Notables: Although devoid of history and pedigreed guests, it's a modern hotel with upgraded facilities and a couple of great restaurants - Paseo (Italian a la carte) and Mediterraneo (Mediterranean and Continental Buffet).

The air-conditioned atrium

Dining at Mediterraneo

Hotel San Miguel
2 Calle Cuba esquina Pena Pobre
Notables: Only 10 rooms available in this hotel just off the Malecon, affording great views of the Havana channel. A Wednesday to Sunday artists' market is on Calle Tacon across the street.

The beautiful stone facade

Hotel Nacional de Cuba
Calle 21, Vedado
Notables: Probably the most prestigious historical hotel in Cuba, which welcomed to its grand ballrooms and suites the following: Winston Churchill, scientist Alexander Flemming, Buster Keaton, Errol Flynn, Marlon Brando, and American gangsters like Meyer Lansky and Lucky Luciano.

Evening with a cocktail and a show at Hotel Nacional via Paul Keller

Retro Summer '09

2010-02-18T15:51:00.002-05:00

Living in a big city is rather like living in a fish bowl. You forget what's beyond that enclosure. How could you not? Everything and everyone you need is right where they are: that neighbourhood barista who prepares your caffe latte every morning; that bistro waiter who knows exactly how you want your salad; and that Massage Therapist who kneads your troubles away. On that note, why leave the city? On the other hand, why not?

So, even though the Kool-Aid days of summer had turned to the ashen frost of winter, memories of sultry dog days remain. This summer past, our group of friends and family relished in a customary Canadian holiday-on-the-lam: an exodus to Cottage Country. In our case, it was in Ontario's Port Ryerse and Port Dover area.

That July day, I wrote in my journal:
"The morning sun sails over a blue-gray lake, casting shimmery zirconium confetti-like streaks across the water. From where I stand, I see the first boats glide the calm of Lake Erie, their sails quivering with the breeze. It is the first of several glorious mornings at Turkey Point beach in Port Ryerse, where lakeside homes back into arcane rivers and beechen woods. Summer is in the air."

As I sat with my daughter by the pier’s edge watching seagulls circle the sky, I tightened my arms around her. It was a rather chilly July evening, but we decided on ice cream cones anyway. She chose blue bubblegum; I opted for plain vanilla. When I saw my husband gallop around the bend with s'mores, we waved wildly for him to join us. How is life this simple and beautiful all at once? Like fire-roasted marshmallows sandwiched in chocolate and graham crackers. S'more, please!

Eat, Drink, and Be Merry in Tel Aviv

2010-02-12T01:15:00.003-05:00

It's a tall order for a place to dub itself "The City That Never Stops". But by the looks of it, Tel Aviv - the city in question - is not at all struggling to live up to their slogan.

Tel Aviv is a national employment centre for Israel's financial and hi-tech sectors, making the average income in the Tel Aviv-Yafo area 20% higher than the national average. This means Tel Avivians work hard, but they also know how to play hard. It is not unusual for restaurants, bars, and nightclubs to stay busy well into the wee hours on work nights - which is, by the way, Sunday to Thursday.

You will never be starved for choice in this Mediterranean seaside city. For instance, the Tel Aviv Port, although no longer harbours ships since the opening of Ashdod Port 40 kilometers away, is brimming with restaurants, cafés, bars, nightclubs, and fashion shops. To the south of the coast, the Old Yafo (Jaffa) Port takes the honour as the most romantic place to have an outdoor seafood dinner after gallery-hopping around its cobbled town centre. Inland between the two ports, Neveh Tzedek has emerged as the new artist colony, attracting creative types to its hip social scene and, subsequently, injecting new life into the once dilapidated quarter. And farther into the heart of the city, Rothschild Boulevard and the Sheinkin neighbourhood bring some trendy, upscale flavour to the financial district.

Largely secular, Tel Aviv is gaining a cosmopolitan reputation in the Middle East that is comparable to Tehran and Beirut in the 70's. And here's why eating, drinking, and simply being merry in TLV (airport code) is a way of life.

Eat...
Boya, Tel Aviv Port, Tel. 03-5446166
It's listed as seafood joint, although it has offerings on meats and pastas as well. The food is pretty decent and their garlic bread, just absolutely divine. However, it is still not strong enough to be considered one of Tel Aviv's premiere restaurants. It can be argued, though, that despite its cheesy corporate look, Boya has one of the loveliest views of the sea from its patio or from behind its floor-to-ceiling glass walls. Brunch is a special affair with choices for healthy, French, Middle Eastern, or American breakfasts.

Boya via inisrael

Mul Yam, Tel Aviv Port, Tel. 03-5469920
Its high-end prices match its high-end reputation. With ingredients flown from around the world, Mul Yam is THE place in Israel to sample the best seafood: Nova Scotia lobster, Brittany oysters, and fish from New Zealand. This is pure haute cuisine!

Mul Yam via inisrael

Kimmel, Hashahar 6, Tel. 03-5105204
A lively - albeit a bit crowded - rustic restaurant serving tapas-style dishes made for tasting and sharing. From the well-edited menu comes: eggplant stuffed with pesto, sheep's cheese, olive tapenade, and mushroom sauce; goat cheese ravioli with sage, cream, sweet potato and mushrooms; cured salmon in dill and lemon, with onion, capers, ginger, celery, and sweet pepper cream; ostrich filet grilled with lemon and garlic; chicken in teriyaki, sesame and eggplant on fettuccine; mushroom stuffed with goose liver in plum and fig sauce.

Pasha, 8 Ha'arbaa, Tel. 03-5617778
It's a modern restaurant serving traditional, kosher Turkish food. Starters are excellent: a variety of mezes such as cacik (yoghurt with cucumber, mint, olive oil), hummus (mashed chickpeas, tahini, paprika), cevizli biber (red pepper paste, walnut, spices), patlican (smoke-grilled eggplant mash with garlic, herbs, lemon, olive oil) are served with house bread made for sousing. Kofte (meatballs), pargiot maklouba (seasoned rice casserole with chicken), and taboon-cooked kebabs of lamb, beef, and chicken are all well-spiced mains. Finish with a gigantic ice cream plate to share and tea served in tiny glasses.

Piccola Pasta, 53 Ben Yehuda, Tel. 03-5290643
A quaint, little Italian restaurant with a homey, neighbourhood feel. There is an extensive menu with appetizers like asparagus antipasti (asparagus in butter, brandy, grappa with garlic bread and Parmiggiano); antipasti plate (fried eggplant, fried zucchini, basil, fresh mozzarella, salted ricotta, pesto, sweet peppers and garlic bread, and aceto balsamico). Their pasta dishes are simple yet hearty: mushroom & anchovies; salmon in cream sauce; pesto & tomato, to name a few. The tiramisu dessert cup is a sweet end to the meal.

Sheinkin Shawarma, 2 Sheinkin, Tel. No. 03-5252704
A hole-in-the-wall falafel and shawarma place that can seat, perhaps, 6 people in the bar. The spit-grilled beef, lamb, and chicken are moist, juicy, and aromatic. Have your shawarma pita with a couple of perfectly seasoned, crunchy falafel balls for the ultimate street sandwich. Don't forget to douse some hot sauce!

Drink and be merry...
Evita, 31 Yavne, Tel. 03- 5669559
A popular gay bar that welcomes straight peeps with open arms. Flashy videos are projected on the wall, but the real entertainment lies in observing the mating calls of the openly gay crowd.

Kibbutz Bar, HaTa’arucha 3
An open-air bar with cheap beer and kibbutz-style Israeli music. It's a great place to have a cold drink on a humid summer night amidst bales of hay, a John Deere tractor, and twinkling little lights.

Kibbutz bar via inisrael

Nanuchka, 28 Lilienblum, Tel. 03-5168178
A Georgian-style (former Soviet Union) bistro-bar that plays a mix of retro, pop and Middle Eastern music. The main room is usually crowded, so opt for a cozy nook at the back. Dancing on the bar is encouraged.

Pri Hagefen, Ehad Ha'am 4, Tel. 05-79439571
A wine-store-cum-tasting-cellar with übercool, dreadlocked bartenders at the helm. Pri Hagefen, translated as "fruit of the vine", is a well-stocked bar that features Israeli wines from over 70 estates. This is the best place to taste pomegranate vino, such as Rimon. The owners also run Nana, the restaurant across, and a guesthouse.

Kritamon Restaurant

2010-02-08T10:30:00.008-05:00

Hello! Today, I have a guest blogger by the name of Melissa Lindo, who is also my good friend and sister-in-law. An intrepid traveller and avid foodie herself, she brings to the table a refreshing review of this secret little restaurant just outside the town of Heraklio in Crete. Here, Melissa shares their fantastic dining experience at Kritamon.

"In a quiet village just south of Heraklio lies this hidden gem of a restaurant - a paradise for foodies like my husband and I! We both have such different palates yet we loved each dish so much that we devoured them like we hadn't eaten in years. The wonderful owner and chef, Dimitris Mavrakis, explained to us that most of the ingredients are retrieved from the mountain behind the restaurant. We didn't realize how different food could taste if it was fresh, largely unprocessed, and cooked to perfection. In fact, we enjoyed the meal so much that we returned the very next day. While the prices are astoundingly low considering the quality of the food, we are certain that this may all change one day. The chef is going to be a big star soon, and this hidden gem will be a secret no longer. We feel incredibly lucky to have experienced it when we did."

The entrance to the charming restaurant

The patio for al fresco dining

Enjoying some home-made dessert wine and sweet grapes

Grilled zucchini

Greek salad made from the freshest organic ingredients

Escargot and mushroom risotto

Graviera cheese with pistachios, sesame oil, and carob honey

Apprenticing with the chef?

Kritamon
Main Square, Ano Arhanes, Crete
Tel: 2810 753092

Laundry Day in Havana

2010-02-05T13:15:00.003-05:00

Havana is, no doubt, an enigmatic place. Despite the ramshackled grandeur of its outer city, the local tableau is a harlequin of intense and vivid colours. You never know what lies beneath some of its bedraggled walls until waltzing neighbours and washing lines whisper some sense of life into the sprawling alleyways.

A World of Inspiration

2010-02-02T21:45:00.004-05:00

My friend and fellow travel blogger, Keith Jenkins of Velvet Escape, previously wrote about how his interests in travel and geography were fostered when his parents gave him an atlas. While I've never had an atlas until I was well into my 20's (I'm in my 30's now), it is only recently that I realized what I've been missing out all these years - a simply great reference book!

There are numerous atlas publishers in the market today, but just like my collection of dictionaries and thesauri, the name I trust when it comes to reference materials is Oxford. At nearly 450 pages, Oxford's Atlas of the World by Oxford University Press covers a wealth of information that is updated yearly. As a travel writer and blogger, it is an indispensable tool for fact-checking.

The chapters in this atlas contain authoritative information on every country in the world. These are just some of the sections that can be found in this practical tome:

The "Gazetteer of Nations" summarizes the demographics, geography, climate, history, politics, and economy of each country, illustrated with their respective flags.

"World Cities Map" houses select urban maps of the most popular cities of the world.

"World Maps" features cartography by Philip's of both physical and political demarcations, with close-up images of each country.

The "Geographical Glossary and Index" catalogues 84,000 towns and cities, including their latitude/longitude, that you can cross-reference within the book.

Who can benefit from Oxford's Atlas of the World? Students and teachers of the social sciences, writers and journalists, researchers and analysts, geography aficionados, travel professionals, and travellers. And regular people like us.

My husband and I have this game wherein we name as many countries or cities that we can from A-Z; we also love to map out their location on earth. Sometimes, we get really competitive, but it's always done in the spirit of good fun! Oxford's Atlas of the World has come to the rescue (of our marriage, perhaps) whenever there is a debate over certain points. We often share this game with our daughter, hoping that we can cultivate the same genuine interest in the world around her. Hopefully, we will be racking in some book mileage on our atlas as we plan our 'round-the-world trip!

*A copy of Oxford's Atlas of the World was provided to me courtesy of Oxford University Press. However, all opinions expressed herein are solely mine.

An Open Letter To My Daughter On Her 3rd Birthday

2010-01-28T17:45:00.013-05:00

Lunch at Le Tourville in your favourite city - Paris

Watching boats go by at the Seine in Paris

Dearest G,

Three years ago, as I lay on that hospital bed awaiting your birth, I knew not the kind of change you'd bring into my life. It was a change so drastic it spun me out of my world and shook my very core. Although you're just this teeny tiny 'thing', you already make me want to be a better person for you. You showed me the meaning of true Joy when you cracked your first smile in the 1st month of your birth. You taught me the value of Patience when you struggled with your first steps and uttered your first words at 9 months. You demystified the power of Kindness and Understanding towards others when I joined legions of working moms after 14 months cocooned with you. You left me in Wonder when you completed your first puzzle at 18 months. You commanded Respect when you became this little person with your own intelligence and temperament. And most of all, you remind me of the Grace that you are, everyday of your life. So, thank you for just being you, and thank you for showing me a Love I've never known before. I hope you will enjoy the journey of life with Mommy and Daddy. Let's go places together as a family! Happy 3rd Birthday and many, many more!

Love,
Mommy

Halloween in Toronto

Keeping cool in Essaouira, Morocco

My honey bunny...

The Mind-Boggling Street Foods of the Philippines

2010-01-22T00:05:00.006-05:00

Developing or emerging nations usually have the most vibrant street food scene. Why so? Well, for one, you don't have some bloke in Belgium (EU), D.C. (U.S.), or Ottawa (Canada) shutting down Joe Blow's operation and calling it unhygienic. Granted, 90% of the time (by no means a scientific measure), the practices are unsanitary by corporate standards, but my god, the food can be quite fantastic!

It is with pride that I proclaim the delicious, yet sometimes mind-boggling, ethnic fare of the Philippines to be a must-try for any food enthusiast. Get you palates ready for this one-of-a-kind adventure!

Balut - Although eaten in other Southeast Asian countries like Cambodia and Vietnam, balut is best-known as a Filipino delicacy. It is essentially duck's egg that has been fertilized for 18 days to reveal a slightly developed embryo sitting atop the yolk and albumen, and swimming in broth (the amniotic fluid). It may sound gross, but it's really not all that bad, mused Andrew Zimmern in the Travel Channel's Bizarre Foods. It is usually eaten seasoned with rock salt. The yolk is probably my favourite part; the egg white is usually overcooked and bland. The duck embryo, if properly fertilized, should have a rather featherless chick that is soft, but comes with a bit of a crunch as well.

Balut by Paul David Lewin

Sisig - A delicacy from Pampanga (where my mother is from) - a province known to produce some of the country's most talented cooks. The Kapampangan sisig (from Pampanga) is traditionally made with chopped pig's cheeks, ears, nose, and other leftovers. The parts are often charcoal-grilled and fried with onions, ginger, black pepper and local vinegar, then served on a sizzling plate. Its crunchy texture and bacon-like flavour make this ethnic dish, perhaps, the most palatable to foreigners.

Sisig by Shubert

Barbecue or Isaw - Anywhere you can fire up a makeshift grill, you can be assured that entrepreneurial Filipinos will be fanning the flames of this popular street food. Everyone claims to have their own secret recipe, but the basic marinade consists of soy sauce, kalamansi (a native lime), and lots of garlic. Note that some "barbecues" are made of cow, pig, or chicken intestines, otherwise known as "isaw".

Barbecue by Shubert

Fish balls - In the Philippines, fish balls are made from a mix of mashed up cuttlefish and obscure fish meat. They are sold on rolling wooden carts with a deep-frying wok fired by propane burners. Fish balls, when fried in hot oil, puff up light and airy inside and crunchy outside. They're always served with two kinds of dipping sauces presented in glass jars: spicy and sweet. The spicy sauce is made with vinegar, water, minced red onions, garlic, and some bird chillis (sili labuyo). The sweet sauce is vinegar, soy sauce, some ketchup, water, cornstarch, brown sugar, salt, garlic, and some bird chillis (sili labuyo).

Fish balls by Shubert

Suman - A timeless Filipino dessert that has been a part of every household. It is made from glutinous white rice soaked in coconut milk and sugar, steamed in banana leaves, and finally, rolled in palm leaves. I love this delicately flavoured snack reminiscent of sticky sweets from Thailand and China.

Suman by museinthecity

Which one would you like to try?

Guu Izakaya: A Little Taste of Japan

2010-01-16T02:25:00.007-05:00

My first time was in '84. The second time was '86. After that, a love affair had began. With Japan and Japanese food and culture, I mean. I tried to (foolishly) learn Nippongo on my own and even surrounded myself with Japanese influences - from Sanrio to sushi. Fast forward to this Toronto winter night, I feel like that little kid in love with Japan again. I am transported back to Tokyo. Into a rowdy Japanese restaurant. But. I. am. in. Toronto.

Guu Izakaya, a restaurant concept that started in Vancouver, now has an outpost in Toronto. True, the line-ups went around the block, but we were determined to tough it out. The wait was close to 2 hours, but as soon as the friendly gatekeeper called us, we jumped up like eager little bunnies. A chorus of Japanese sing-song greetings accosted us through the door, while fellow customers cheered and clapped as we sat. The energy at this friendly boîte was positive and favourable. We hoped the food would hold up its end of the bargain.

Izakaya has come to loosely mean "a Japanese tapas-style drinking bar" in modern terms. Here, the tables are communal, so there were plenty of chances to schmooze and booze with your neighbours. As Japanese menus (with English translations) were passed down the table - along with hot towels - we got down to the business of ordering.

"Takowasabi" octopus with chopped wasabi stems and vegetables; "Kabocha Korokke" deep fried kabocha croquette with boiled egg; "Gomaae" boiled spinach with black sesame sauce

"Takowasabi" octopus with chopped wasabi stems and vegetables - ready to be rolled. Caution: spicy!

"Aburi Salmon" seared Atlantic salmon with ponzu sauce and wasabi mayo

"Brie Cheese" deep fried Brie cheese with mango and blueberry sauce

"Karokke" deep fried smashed potatoes and ground beef croquettes with Tonkatsu sauce

"Fresh shrimps"

"Kakuni" sweet miso-braised pork belly with boiled egg and a dollop of wasabi

"Fish foie gras"

"Kakimayo" grilled oyster with spinach, garlic mayo and cheese

"Gyutangue" grilled beef tongue (a favourite)

"Karubi" salt-and-pepper grilled beef short ribs with green onions

"Tontoro" grilled pork cheek with salt and yuzu pepper

We ended the 2-hour feast in a reverie of tempura bananas with coconut ice cream. By this time, my miso-soup-sipping little girl had turned into a Sleeping Beauty.

Looks like the table next to us cleared as well.

The verdict? It was unthinkable fun while it lasted, with food that matches the jovial atmosphere. But how long will the hype last?

Did I just take you back to Japan for a bit there?

Guu Izakaya
398 Church Street, Toronto, Canada M5B 2A2
Tel. 416-977-0999

Travels &Beyond: An Interview with Brand Ambassador James Currie

2010-01-07T21:15:00.007-05:00

I have had the distinct pleasure of sitting down with James Curries and chatting about the relationships between rural communities, sustainable tourism, and conservation. James, an ex-game ranger at Phinda Game Reserve in South Africa and former Managing Director of &Beyond Foundation, is currently based in Florida as &Beyond's Brand Ambassador. Armed with a Bachelor's degree in African Languages and a Masters degree in Sustainable Environmental Management, this avid birder now handles the company's key trade relationships in the United States. His job is to raise awareness of the brand by participating in various consumer and trade events across the country.

&Beyond (formerly Conservation Corporation Africa) is a luxury safari operator with 46 lodges and camps across Africa and India. Many of their lodges are regular recipients of prestigious international travel and conservation awards. &Beyond Foundation is a separate non-profit organization, although it engages directly with the safari company to provide financial support for projects in the community.

James explains that healthcare, education, and income generation are community-identified priorities for &Beyond. The Foundation, in close partnership with the safari company, is providing financial investments of approximately US $1 Million for this fiscal year 2010 (July 2009-June 2010) in the areas of:

School infrastructure (classrooms/teacher accommodation/ablutions/fencing etc…)
Career guidance
Small business training
Small business infrastructure
Information, Communication Technology (ICT) centre
Orphaned and vulnerable children (OVC) care & support centres
Enviroloos (enviro-friendly ablutions)
School media centres
Water infrastructure
School boarding houses
School equipment
Special Needs School
Doctors and nurses accommodation
Maternity ward
School computer centres
School libraries
Bursary Programme (CLEF)
School environmental education (Conservation Lessons)
Development Practice

Click here to learn about specific communities benefitting from their work.

Jen: How do you find donors to work with the Foundation's cause?
James: Our donor base comes from a variety of sources but by far the most important source is &Beyond itself who provide the Foundation with annual financial support to carry out our administration functions so that a significantly high percentage of donor funds are allocated directly to projects. &Beyond also serves as the catalyst for showcasing the Foundation’s incredible work to our guests. At most of our lodges a guest can embark on a free community trip to witness the work of local community champions and the Foundation in our surrounding communities. This is not a contrived “come see the natives dance” event but rather an insight into the courage of local champions that have made fantastic inroads in the areas of education, health and income generation in these impoverished areas. Other sources of donor funds include overseas and local foundations, local and international corporations and a handful of long-standing individual supporters. But the common thread is that the majority of our donors have come through a visit to one of our lodges. So wildlife and happy guests are the most important catalysts for meaningful community development and the Foundation allows guests to leave a legacy in Africa and make a real difference. Both guests, who become givers, and independent funders donate safe in the knowledge that the process is driven by local community champions who are supported by a not-for-profit with a long record of outstanding community development achievements.

Jen: When there is a conflict between what the donor wishes to give vs. what is really needed by the community, how do you reconcile this?
James: We see ourselves as a facilitator of funds rather than an implementation agent. Through the Project Champions, the communities themselves are the implementation agents. We facilitate the relationship between the communities and the donor. We are a conduit through which this relationship can take place effectively. A very simplified example would be as follows: A donor provides funds for the building of a classroom. The donor expectations are that this is completed in 3 months, the community places more value on consultation and process and in the final analysis the inclusive, participatory process can take up to 9 months. It’s our job to facilitate the full support and buy-in of both interest groups. Donor expectations are managed by our full-time Donor Relationship Officer and, on the whole, donors understand/come to understand the legitimate reasons for time-lags as the real key is that the entire process is community-driven and that community needs are carefully evaluated and taken care of. Many donors want to assist communities according to THEIR perceptions of what a community needs rather than the true needs prioritized by the community itself. If donors are giving for the right reasons, this is a simple matter – if not, the “education of the donor process” can cause some headaches as with everything, the proof is in the pudding - without doubt the single most significant underlying cause for failed “white elephant” projects in the developing world is donor-led or donor-driven development. A classic example is the common desire for donors to send product to Africa’s rural communities – shoes, books, used computers etc. A donor might see school children without shoes and be driven to send boxes of shoes to Africa because the donor cannot imagine children going to school without shoes. But shoes may not be the priority need of the community. In fact many African children, whether impoverished or otherwise, prefer to run around barefoot! So donors need to be made acutely aware of differences in cultural perceptions. Sadly this is not to say that a community would turn down such an offer. Quite the contrary happens (human beings in poverty are naturally seeking “rescuers” as a survival mechanism but there is a big difference between asking “Do you want this?” and “What do you need?” Other problems with donor-driven product is that there are often unforeseen costs involved in getting product through customs, delays, shipping costs and the fact that what happens to next year’s intake of kids that might not have the luxury of receiving shoes. Bottom line is…it’s not sustainable. So we reconcile this by going back to the donor with a list of community-identified needs (that have emerged following the consultations) that will fit the donor’s budget and interest. So while we will not take donor funds to import shoes, we will try redirect the donor to supporting a worthy community-identified project in the priority areas of health, education or income generation.

Jen: What sets &Beyond apart from other lodge operators and owners who claim that they work in favour of conservationism and community development?
James: There is a lot of great work being done to further the aims of conservation and community development in Africa and I salute any operator or lodge owner that is doing meaningful work in these fields. I think the main difference with us is that we like to place more emphasis on actually doing the work rather than talking the talk. Everybody is trying to jump on the Green (conservation) and brown (ComDev) band-wagons but how much of this is genuinely for the benefit of people, wildlife and the environment? So often the talk is about, “We employ so many people from the local community” or “Please assist us in conserving water by placing your towel on your bed” but these are really cost-saving initiatives that have been washed green or brown. Where is the real and selfless benefit to communities and wildlife? The passion for communities and conservation needs to be something that is at the forefront of your mind every morning when you wake up. People do not last long working for &Beyond unless they embrace these core commitments and are willing to do what it takes to make a difference. So we are immensely proud of the strides we have taken to expand green frontiers, engage with meaningfully with local communities through &Beyond Foundation and conserve wildlife. And we will continue to devote our energy into doing our work, rather than talking the talk and there remains much work to be done.

&Beyond lodges and camps are world-renowned for their commitment to delighting guests, empowering the community, and sustaining responsible travel. Each Chris Browne-designed lodge is famed for a particular wildlife species, a spectacular natural setting, and the most special people who take extraordinary pride in their work at the camps. For example, &Beyond Phinda Private Game Reserve is the best place on the planet to view cheetah and rhino; &Beyond Kirkman’s Camp in the Sabi Sand is renowned for its leopard sightings; &Beyond Lake Manyara Tree Lodge in Tanzania for tree-climbing lions; &Beyond Mnemba Island off Zanzibar for turtles; &Beyond Ngorongoro Crater Lodge for the very best view of Ngorongoro Crater; and &Beyond Grumeti Serengeti Tented Camp for the spectacle of the migration.

As an intrepid traveller, how would you like your safari to be? I hope every traveller who cares about sustainable tourism asks this question when they book their next trip. After all, as the African proverb goes, "the Earth is not a gift from our parents but a loan from our children."

*photo credits &Beyond

New Year, New Hopes, New Wishes, New Travels (Hopefully)...

2010-01-03T16:25:00.001-05:00

It's terribly frustrating not to be able to travel because 1) of my current pregnant state and 2) our home renovation project. But I know in my heart and mind that once I squeeze this baby out in about 3 months, and once our home renovation project comes to a close in a month or so, that I will be making up for lost (travel) time.

2009 was a bad year for me in terms of my personal life, but a fruitful one in terms of travel. In March 2009, I had the opportunity to journey to Israel on a press trip. In May 2009, I vacationed with my family in Paris, Barcelona, Marrakech, and Essaouira. In September 2009, although under undesirable circumstances, I journeyed to the Philippines. In November 2009, I was invited along by General Motors Canada to test drive their Chevy Equinox in Quebec, Canada. Although travel is not a priority NOW, as I will be busy like a bee with baby no.2 during most of 2010, you can bet your horses, though, that I will be roaring to take more trips as soon as I am not 'incapacitated' anymore.

Ideally, I'd love to go on one more trip before I am held hostage by a new baby, but alas, I have a feeling that this may be an impossible feat, given that I am in my third trimester. So, consequently for this blog, the next few months will contain mostly snippets from my journal of travels past. But the good news is...(drumrolls, please) my husband agreed to a long-term world tour with both our daughters at an unspecified time (babers, you promised!). This means, I'll be actively saving up and subconsciously planning our RTW ('round-the-world) trip.

So, what does one do when travel plans take a back seat? Emulate travel through food - a cheaper alternative. Luckily for us here in Toronto - one of the most culturally diverse cities in the world - we can take mini trips to different lands in a matter of minutes.

Last night, it was a trip to India. We chose Dhaba restaurant in the theatre district of Toronto, which turned out to be an authentic and excellent representation of pan-Indian cuisine.

Chef P.K. Ahluwalia is a kitchen alchemist, churning out perfectly spiced dishes that result in a magical sojourn to a fascinating land. In his kitchen, the tandoor is king - its fire maintained all day and all night long. As a result, the embers of hunger are already burning in me as the aromas of India greeted us upon entrance to this second floor restaurant.

A basket of crispy-fried spiced pappadums was a great way to start the evening.

Their house specialty starter was just genius: Clay Oven-Fired Tiger Prawns with Garlic, Indian Thyme, and Saffron on a Spiced Tomato Masala Mayo. A must-have!

We had a healthy dose of Oven-Roasted Eggplant with Aloo (potatoes) and Mint Sauce

But along came the heart-stopping Chicken Tikka Masala in an exotic Dhaba spice mix sauce. My vows of "eating healthy" were thrown out the proverbial window, as you can see.

No worries, though. I tried to cut the heat with a mildly aromatic Saffron Basmati Rice and some heady Garlic Naan Bread. And believe you me, I've not tasted such a perfectly fresh-made, tandoor-grilled naan bread ever in my life! With each bite, I felt like I was transported to the streets of India! I could have eaten just naan and sauce the whole night! (Notice my little girl in the background chugging away at her drink.)

Some other remarkable dishes our group sampled: Saag Paneer (pureed rapini and spinach sauce on paneer cheese); Chana Masala (chickpeas in a curry sauce); Indus Lobster (lobster tail poached in garlic white wine with rosemary sour cream and saffron and fired in a charcoal grill); Butter Chicken (home-smoked tikka chicken pieces with a butter, tomato, and fenugreek sauce); Lamb Tikka Masala (spring lamb cooked in garden vegetables, yogourt and saffron, and an exotic masala sauce)

We ended the night with a mango kulfi (ice cream), mango lassi drink, and exotic teas to cleanse the palate. The verdict? Arguably the BEST Indian food in Toronto...and we have many, many Indian restaurants in the city!

May Ganesh bring us more bounty this year! Happy New Year, everyone!

Folie à Deux's Marrakech: Riad Jahan and Area

2009-12-27T15:15:00.005-05:00

Marrakech is one of those places that cast a spell on you long after you've left this desert metropolis. It's one of the most memorable and enigmatic places I've been to, and I miss this labyrinthine city tremendously.

We stayed at a couple of riads, or guesthouses, while in Marrakech: Riad Dar One (here and here) and Riad Jahan. While Riad Dar One was chic, polished, and a well-oiled operation, Riad Jahan was a bit more quaint, homey, and charming. The rooms at Jahan were a bit disappointing compared to the elegant Dar One, but the ongoing Moorish-Indian fusion theme was quite darling.

Around the riad, curved arches and linen curtains complement niches decorated with Rajasthani-style accoutrements.

But Moroccan trappings are evident all around, such as leather poufs and tribal marriage rugs in the main courtyard and in each of the five rooms.

My favourite details? Antique doors with silk tassels and shining brass lamps.

On the rooftop, an Arabian tent shelters one corner of the terrace - a perfect place to just loaf with a book and a pot of mint tea.

The following are some photos taken around Marrakech's medina, or walled city.

Recommendations for a pleasant stay in Marrakech:

Eat
Tatchibana (Japanese)
38 Der Bab Ksiba / South Medina, Tel. 024 38 71 71
You must think me crazy for suggesting a Japanese restaurant with a Japanese chef and a German proprietor in Marrakech. Well, crazy in Marrakech is not bad when you have a restaurant serving entrées like Tempura with Lemon and Green Tea Powder and desserts like Kiwi Sorbet.

Kosybar (International and Moroccan)
47 Place des Ferblantiers / South Medina, Tel.024 38 03 24
Chef Nao Tamaki (yes, he's Japanese) churns out starters like Hot Phyllo Goat Cheese Rolls and Verrine of Sea Bream in Persimmon and Vanilla Oil; entrées like Spiced Red Curry Loin of Roasted Lamb and Teriyaki Chicken with Cantonese Rice; desserts like Lemon Soufflé and Caramelized Millefeuille with Vanilla Glaze. Oh yeah, did I mention it has a great rooftop scene?

Le Tobsil (Traditional Moroccan)
22 Derb Abdellah Ben Hessaien, Bab Ksour / near Djemaa El-Fna, Tel. 024 44 40 52
Under the helm of owner Christine Rio and lady Chef Fatima Mountassamin, Le Tobsil is considered Marrakech's premiere restaurant. On the menu are Pigeon Pastilla, Tajine of Farm Chicken with Lemon and Apricots, Tanjia of Marrakshi Chicken, Lamb Shoulder with Vegetables and Couscous. For dessert, traditional Moroccan sweets and mint tea.

Chez Chegrouni (Budget Moroccan)
east end of the Djemaa El Fna
My favourite cheap place for tajine and couscous! You will find all manners of tajines here - poulet (chicken), viande (meat/beef), and kefta (meatball) - all served with legumes (vegetables)

Food stalls at Djemaa El Fna (Street Food)
Djemaa El Fna, beginning sunset
To experience the ultimate in Marrakchi street food, eat like locals do: on communal tables and under tilly lamps. The food stalls at Djemaa El Fna is an open-air emporium for kebabs (meat brochettes), tajines, and grilled fruits de mer (seafood). An adventure not to be missed!

A Photographic Journey Around Quebec City

2009-12-21T22:30:00.005-05:00

Quartier Petit Champlain
"Rue du Petit-Champlain" - In 1608, this area was a portside village lined with fur traders' shops and merchants' mansions. Today, mostly souvenir shops and quaint bistros line the pedestrian cobblestone street, with a few fur stores and art galleries scattered around.

The Vieux Port district / Lower Town district
"The Mural of Quebecers" - This trompe-l'oeil style mural tells the origins of this 400-year-old district.

Many maritime-inspired stone buildings face the port area around Rue Dalhousie. There are a number of canons surrounding the lower port, guarding the mouth of the St. Lawrence River in ancient times. Some of the fortified buildings are now converted to restaurants with patios facing the river.

"Place-Royal" - In 1608 when Samuel de Champlain discovered what we know today as Quebec City, he built the first settlement of New France here at the foot of Cap Diamant and called it Place du Marché. In 1686, a bust of Louis XIV (the Sun King) was erected in the middle of the square and Place du Marché was renamed Place-Royal. It subsequently became the trading hub for merchant ship owners and shipbuilders under the English Regime.

Le Chateau Frontenac
"Le Chateau Frontenac" - In 1620, Samuel de Champlain built a bastion on top of Cap Diamant. In 1784, it became the Chateau Haldimand, serving as the residence of the Governors of the British Colony. In 1892, the chateau was purchased by tycoons of the Pacific Railway and transformed into a first-class hotel, Chateau Frontenac. The hotel was named after Louis de Buade Comte de Palluau et de Frontenac, Governor of New France in the late 17th century.

Rue Saint-Louis
"Maison Jacquet" - Built in 1675-1676, it is the oldest house in Quebec. It was constructed with thick stone walls, solid joints, superb wainscoting, and recessed cupboards. Several prominent figures have resided here, including Philippe Aubert de Gaspé, author of "Les Anciens Canadiens". Since 1966, the house has been converted to a restaurant.

"Rue Saint-Louis" - Numerous tourist hotels and restaurants line Rue Saint-Louis, from Porte Saint-Louis all the way to Chateau Frontenac and the Dufferin Terrace.

Parliament Hill
"Porte Saint-Louis" - the gateway between the old and the new city.

"Hôtel du Parlement" - Built between 1877-1886, it now houses the National Assembly. Guided tours into the National Assembly Chamber, Legislative Council Chamber and Speakers' Gallery are available.

At Heaven's Door in Auberge Saint-Antoine

2009-12-15T18:00:00.004-05:00

I'm knock, knock, knocking on heaven's door. And I'm glad Saint-Antoine opened the gates to this delightful little hotel in Vieux Quebec!

This Relais and Chateaux auberge is definitely beyond charming and is just overflowing with attention to detail.

The suites are dressed in black, white, and red - more devilish than angelic, in my opinion.

By the door of each room, there is a tray on the floor piled with alabaster river rocks. My husband and I debated as to what purpose they served. Were they for throwing into glasshouses? No. We concluded that it was a stowage for wet snowboots, given that winter is a huge event in Quebec City.

And the beverage of choice at turndown service? Holy water of Auberge Saint-Antoine! You would have thought they gathered it from a pilgrimage to Lourdes.

Oh, how we loved the details: the faux-leather bathroom tiles with matching accessories; bathrobes for each guest including the wee ones; a rack full of current magazines; fluffy cloud-like pillows and duvet that keep bodies warm. And those little uplighters on the floor...

When it comes to the lobby, nothing is cozier than an intimate lounge area with soft couches, blankets, reindeer-patterned pillows, and a blazing fire.

Yes, even heaven loves fire.

The sofas at the lobby bar are swathed in velvet and suede-like microfibre with touches of silk and sateen. Acrylic Louis XIV ghost chairs are thrown in for a bit of verve. Along its wall, some precious paraphernalia that were found during the excavation of the building site are displayed.

Here's another nook with a bunch of books and board games, and of course, a gas fireplace once again.

The auberge's restaurant, Panache, is a wood-and-stone 19th century warehouse space, painstakingly restored and decorated in the lines of the hotel's flashes-of-red motif. The food prepared by Executive Chef Francois Blais is decidedly French-Canadian, with a focus on local produce.

There are fantastic views of the St. Lawrence river from the restaurant that one can enjoy while sampling the flavours of Canada. Such are the highlights of the menu: Saint-Apollinaire duck foie-gras, Saint-Lambert-de-Lauzon lamb, Cap-Saint-Ignace quail, Mingan Island scallops, Nova Scotia lobster, Lac-Saint-Pierre perch, and more.

Glass chandeliers from local La Mailloche artisans ooze from the ceiling like icicle angels, making it a truly sensual and heavenly experience, not just for taste, but also for sight.

Conclusion: Auberge Saint-Antoine is worthy of its title as one of "America's Top 10 Small City Hotels" in Travel & Leisure's World's Best List. I would stay here again next time I'm in the area!

Quebec Road Trip with Chevy Equinox - Part 2 La Malbaie

2009-12-08T13:24:00.011-05:00

The Charlevoix region of Canada's Quebec province has a 200-year tradition in tourism. As early as 1800, locals started to open their homes to passing guests, allowing a hospitality industry to gradually emerge in the community. Visitors would come to the area seeking fresh air, picturesque views of the St. Lawrence Seaway, and participating in a slew of outdoor activities within a majestic setting.

At one point in the early 20th century, Charlevoix experienced an era called Belle Epoque wherein the famous palatial steamboats - known as White Ships - glided on the waters of St. Lawrence, past the quaint villages that sprouted along the shores. While this era is gone, the tourism tradition of the region remains as robust as ever.

Today, Charlevoix is Quebec's premier holiday destination for nature-lovers, artists, and gourmands. A little known fact about this region: it is one of the largest inhabited craters in the world. 350 million years ago, a 15-billion-ton meteorite smashed into the land that currently spans 56 kilometers in diameter from the west end of Baie-Saint-Paul to the east end of La Malbaie. This accounts for the unique and rugged landscape of towering summits and sweeping estuaries found here.

We drove out of Quebec City's Route 440 towards Montmorency Falls and Sainte Anne de Beaupré Basilica on our left side, and the St. Lawrence River and Île d'Orléans on our right. When Route 440 turned into Route 138, the highway started to climb and dip. Our fuel-efficient, compact crossover 2010 Chevy Equinox negotiated the hilly, twisting roadway with no problems at all. It was a smooth ride all throughout, from city to country roads.

While the main road to La Malbaie and the Charlevoix region is Route 138 (East), we took our Chevy Equinox through the more picturesque Route 362, which starts at the artist enclave of Baie-Saint-Paul, past Saint-Joseph-de-la-Rive, Les Eboulments, and Saint-Irenée villages to La Malbaie. As we wound around the country route, I noticed many quaint artisanal shops and artists' studios dotting the surrounding area.

It was quite disappointing that we arrived at our Relais & Châteaux hotel, Auberge La Pinsonnière, in the darkness of 5 pm. We had totally miscalculated the early sunset time in this far eastern Atlantic region, thus missing the view from our floor-to-ceiling windowed suite.

However, the slight miscalculation turned into a wonderful surprise in the morning, as the rising sun jolted our room to life with a bright, warm, winter sunshine.

We spent the morning exploring the little villages around Route 362 before heading back to Quebec City. We summed up the total number of kilometers that we drove over the weekend in Quebec City and La Malbaie to be nearly 500 kilometers. And the biggest surprise about the 2010 Chevy Equinox compact crossover? The gas gauge barely even moved!

What to drive:
I highly recommend the 2010 Chevy Equinox and I'm not JUST saying that. Here are the reasons:
-For a family like ours, the all-new Equinox is equipped with technological features like CD Player with MP3 playback, USB port for iPod, DVD entertainment system, Bluetooth capacity, and XM Radio that provide endless entertainment during long drives.

-6 standard airbags, StabiliTrak, 182 Hp-4 cylinder engine, and OnStar system make negotiating tough, slippery winter roads easy in the safety of its sleek, one-piece body stamping design.

-The big bonus is the Equinox's fuel efficiency. At an impressive 6.1L/100 km, it is one of the most efficient vehicles in its segment! Like I said, at nearly 500 kilometers we covered, we didn't have to fill up at any point because the gauge barely even moved from its full position. If we used our standard Japanese compact car to drive the same distance, we would have filled up 45 liters of gas per 480-500 kilometers!! It doesn't take a genius to know that you can save big gas bucks with the 2010 Chevy Equinox.

Where to stay:
Auberge La Pinsonniére

Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu

Where to eat:
Mouton Noir in Baie-Saint-Paul

La Pinsonniére Restaurant in La Malbaie

*This was a sponsored event.

Winner of Lubitel Lomo Camera !!!

2009-12-06T11:50:00.006-05:00

Announcing the winner of the Lubitel 166+ Lomo Camera...

Number 29...

Mimi Charmante...

Congratulations! I will contact you shortly for your shipping address.

To all followers, thank you for joining but please stay tuned for another lomo camera draw soon!!!

My 3 Best Kept Travel Secrets

2009-12-02T16:30:00.009-05:00

All work and no play makes Jen a dull girl...so I'm joining in this fun called "My 3 Best Kept Travel Secrets," organized by Katie of Tripbase.com. Keith of Velvet Escape tagged me to share my secrets, and since I love to chit-chat about travel, I have no trouble revealing some of my elusive, classified, top-secret info. But on a more serious note, Katie of Tripbase.com says, "the aim of this game is to unite travel bloggers in a joint endeavor to create an amazing list of top travel recommendations across the globe to share with the entire travel community."

Here are my humble secrets, some of them controversial:

1. Boracay, Philippines in the 80's and early 90's, when there were real stars
It was in Boracay, Philippines that I first saw the most beautiful black velveteen night sky so full of sparkling little Lucy diamonds. There were literally hundreds of shooting stars leaping across the dark universe above. And I just laid there with my back on the fine, white sand, observing the heavens in peace. From a distance, the crackle of a transistor radio blared from a neighbouring island. Someone was listening to Eric Clapton's "Tears in Heaven". And it broke my heart to think about Clapton's little boy (who plunged to his death from the 53rd floor of a New York building in '91). I found myself in tears, not only for the tragedy, but also for the beauty of life (and Boracay). So, I begged my lucky stars to keep me and my loved ones ever safe.

Boracay night sky by Jing Magsaysay

Beach chairs

The finest sand and clearest waters minus the crowd

2. Be a proud blogger
Aching to stay at The Peninsula in Hong Kong? The Mandarin Oriental in Tokyo? The Sukhothai in Bangkok? The Raffles in Singapore? Skip the reservations desk. Do not be afraid to ask the hotel management or their PR company for room discounts. Most of the time, hinting that you are 'press' or identifying yourself as a legit travel blogger (with a professional business card) can yield a slight rate reduction, a room upgrade, or other extra perks. No harm in asking in advance. No guts, no glory, but DO NOT ABUSE.

3. Compassionate grounds and skies
As morbid as the thought may be, some airlines will give you discounts if you are travelling to attend a funeral. All you may need is a death certificate and your boarding pass, and many airlines will give you a compassionate discount or partial refund on airfare. This is not to say you should abuse the situation, but let it serve as a reminder not to hesitate to attend services for the geographically-distant dearly departed.

As a rule, I am tagging these blogs to share their secrets!
My Melange
My Kugelhopf
Solo Road Trip
416 Cycle Style
Melanie Nayer of Chic Travel

Quebec Road Trip with Chevy Equinox - Part 1 Vieux Quebec

2009-11-30T09:36:00.013-05:00

As a struggling travel writer and blogger, how can I say "no" to an offer that involved test driving a GM Chevrolet Equinox from Quebec City to La Malbaie and back? This was the conversation that ensued at home.

Jen (to her husband): Hey, we've been offered to test drive a Chevrolet Equinox in Quebec.
Johnny: Did I hear 'we'?
Jen: How can I say no to this opportunity? And yeah, I can invite a guest along.
Johnny: Who are you taking?
Jen: You, of course
Johnny: Who's babysitting our daughter?
Jen: I asked and she's been invited, too.
Johnny: Alright!!

Some weeks later, the three of us touched down at Quebec City's Jean-Lesage International Airport. We met the innovative drive organizers from Adventure Drive (one of them a 4-time world record holder in long distance driving) and other media folks at Toast! Restaurant for dinner, and it looked like we were heading for some fun times. Our hotel, Auberge Saint Antoine, was a delightful little Relais and Châteux gem in the lower town / port area. Needless to say, that night, I fell into deep slumber on luxurious Egyptian cotton sheets that felt almost like cashmere on my skin.

After breakfast at Panache Restaurant the next morning, we met our road warrior - the Equinox. Since I became pregnant with baby no.2, we have been looking for a suitable replacement for our compact sedan. Lately, we've been thinking about 'upgrading' to a larger vehicle, since it may be a more practical choice for a growing family. SUVs definitely crossed our minds. Just think: ballet classes, soccer, ice-skating or hockey practices. The bottom line is: we'll be needing more car space soon. We may be lugging two car seats, possibly a double stroller, and all the stuff involved in the aforementioned activities. To this, we we're thinking, "definitely, bigger trunk space." So we were quite delighted to easily fit one large Hey's rolling luggage, a small Dora rolling carry-on, my camera bag and equipment, and an umbrella stroller in the Equinox's trunk. Easy. We could have fit double or triple this amount.

With a quick flip of the ignition, we were off. We were given complete freedom on where to drive the car, so long as we arrived at the booked hotel for the evening. First, we chose to drive around Vieux Quebec, past quaint - and often ancestral - row houses. We mainly stayed inside the walls, and we learned two important facts about this place. It is the only fortified city in North America, and it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Driving around, I ultimately felt like I was in a European city more than a Canadian one. Certainly, the French influence is particularly strong in this part of the country. With districts called Quartier Petit Champlain, Rue Saint-Jean, Grande Allée, Saint-Roch, etc., it feels like a little piece of France transported across the Atlantic.

As we were feeling utterly like we landed somewhere in Northern France, we decided to go sort of native. What's more French than having those rich, buttery, hot crépes? So, to Au Petit Coin Breton on rue Saint-Jean we went.

I feasted on Escargot à la Provençal baked in special ceramic plates made to hold those creepy creatures. The dish came bubbling with butter and garlic.

A classic French onion soup for my husband, but our little one got most of the gooey cheese to herself.

The gratin baked in béchamel was absolutely, heart-attackingly indulgent. I think I may have reached my daily caloric limit with this one dish. I ordered poulet et champignons; my husband, jambon, fromage et asperge.

But the heart attack was not yet over. As a treat to our little one, our costumed server presented her with a vanilla ice cream in raspberry coulis dessert, complete with sparklers!

By the time we made our way 150 kilometers east to La Malbaie in the Charlevoix region, I was totally relaxed on the ergonomically-built passenger seat of the Equinox, while my daughter sleeps on the car seat at the back. I knew we were settling into a comfortable drive when my husband switched on the XM satellite radio and tried to look for Howard Stern on air. Of course, he didn't find the Howard Stern Show, but more than once, we were tempted to call and ask OnStar (an in-vehicle communication system available to all Chevy Equinox owner)!

Stay tuned to Part 2 and Part 3 of our Quebec adventure drive, as well as a more comprehensive review of places we went, stayed, and played at. And of course, our experience with the Chevrolet Equinox vehicle.

There is also a very engaging post on accepting 'comps' from tourism boards and PR companies over at travel writer Christine's site, Almost Fearless. Au revoir for now!

Lubitel 166+ Camera Giveaway!!!

2009-11-24T22:09:00.007-05:00

Hey guys and gals,

This is one giveaway you absolutely wouldn't want to miss!

Folie á Deux and Les Filles Giada et Cairo blogs are giving away one all-new, Soviet-style Lubitel 166+ Universal Lomo medium-format film camera. For more information on the Lubitel 166+, click here . Prize package includes camera, accessories, colour ring flash, Lomo book, a box of limited edition Agfa black and white film, and coloured films. *This is NOT a sponsored event.

This prize package is worth over $500 !!!

Rules of Engagement:
1. Be a Google Follower of Folie á Deux or Les Filles Giada et Cairo or BOTH (for two entries)!

2. All Followers will be automatically entered, unless you give notice stating that you do not wish to be included.

3. Each Follower will be assigned a number according to membership order, starting with Folie á Deux blog followers, then with Les Filles Giada et Cairo blog followers.

4. One winner will be selected on Sunday, December 6, 12 noon EST via random draw. Winner will be announced on the same day.

Good luck, mes amis!

Dispatch from a Quick Jaunt to Quebec

2009-11-22T23:50:00.001-05:00

We'd just gotten back from La Belle Province where we visited Quebec City and the Charlevoix region. We test-drove a GM Chevy Equinox this weekend, hauling ourselves from Vieux Quebec to La Malbaie along the St. Lawrence Seaway. Full report to follow in the next few posts. But here's what I'm revealing for now: it was a fun-filled European-flavoured junket!

Legendary Dance Parties, Circa 1995-2005

2009-11-16T13:12:00.024-05:00

These parties are often called "period-defining," much like disco's fabled and mythical icons, the Paradise Garage and Studio 54. When such storied parties come to a close, it always signals the end of an era. And yes, indeed, my clubbing time has come and gone, but the memories still linger like a wicked drug.

My halcyon days spanned from 1995-2005. Within that decade, many legendary parties sprouted in New York and Toronto, where I shuttled back and forth for these shindigs. This was the time before Prohibition-type politicians banned smoking, dancing, loud music, and all sorts of debauchery in an effort to regulate the after-hours scene.

New York
1. Body and Soul at Vinyl - Now defunct
The holy triumvirate of dj's - Francois K, Danny Krivit, and Joe Claussell - provided a transcendental experience in a black hole of a space. Here, the folks sprinkled baby powder on the dance floor for maximum slide impact, and dancers refused to leave even after the final song had faded out. The uniform was dressed-down casual; the state of mind, rhapsody that could rival the

Images via {here}

2. Twilo - Now defunct
This mega-club in Chelsea hosted a straight crowd on Friday nights and a mostly-gay legion on Saturday nights. Dimitri from Paris, Danny Tenaglia, Paul Van Dyk, Sasha and Digweed, and Junior Vazquez were just some of the dj's that totally rocked my hallucinated world. On weekends, the crush of hard, chiseled bodies was so intense that I half expect a scrum to happen. But in this temple of dance, no fight ever broke out. And if you happened to lose your friends on the way to the bathroom, don't expect to find them until hours later in a sea of gyrating naked men.

Toronto
1. Industry - Now defunct
Not too big, not too small, but just the right size for a legendary party! Unforgettable Industry Nightclub in the King West Village of Toronto was THE place to be on a slammin' Saturday night, circa 1996 to 2000. Big name dj's from NYC, Chicago, Detroit, Philadephia, and Europe came in droves: David Morales, Victor Calderone, Cevin Fisher, Miss Honey Dijon, Danny Tenaglia, Derrick Carter, DJ Sneak, Green Velvet, Stacey Pullen, Josh Wink, Paul Van Dyk, Carl Cox, Basement Jaxx. They all put Toronto on the dance party map! Each weekend is like a love connection with strangers-turned-BFFs, long before Facebook made its debut in town.

2. Life - Now defunct
Following the footsteps of Industry after it rested in peace in 2000, Life became the next "It" House party of Toronto. Small and intimate, Life Nightclub was located on an underground office building on Richmond Street West, Toronto. It was divided into the Main Room, where famous international dj's (trickled down from Industry) spun the hardest House, and the Family Room, where a more chilled-out vibe ensued. The Main Room was where you went to dance; the Family Room, to recover until you can muster the strength to walk home at 7 am on a Sunday morning.

3. Film - Now defunct
Although an odd fit amongst the herbal stores and tea houses of Toronto's Chinatown, Film still became one of the most popular Saturday night parties after Life shut down. We loved this place so much, my husband and I had our engagement party here! DJ's were more low key - Sydney Blue, Amtrak, Aadil, De-Koze, Kenny Glasgow, Addy, J-Prez - all from the local scene. But what made the party so maddeningly good was the unpretentious crowd who came here to DANCE. The floor was always packed after 3 am, when a mixed bag of personalities had finally awakened from their disco naps just in time for their morning dancercize!

New York AND Toronto
1. The Gay Pride Parade Parties
One of the most beloved street parties I've attended. You don't have to be a LGBT (Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual and Transgender) to enjoy the international acts that grace the numerous stages in this week-long event. In Toronto, the big street party is on Sunday. There's always a famous dj manning the turntables on the corner of Church and Wellesley streets. Rain or shine. Both cities hold their respective Pride parades during the last week of June.

Toronto will play host to the 2014 World Pride event, beating out Stockholm for the bid. In 2009, one million people attended