Oh, creme brulee! This is fast becoming one of my favorite desserts, particularly because of HOW GOOD IT IS. I first encountered this strange flammable dessert when I worked as a waiter. The kitchen expected all the servers to be able to plate their own desserts, so I got a crash course in burning some sugar over some cream. I was captivated, especially once I actually got to try it– and it was amazing. You may remember that Rachel and I also featured it at our summer garden party last year, with the addition of some summer berries to the custard. It was a big hit.

To me, creme brulee also represents the kind of food that our current food culture has lost the ability to appreciate. In a world where we put bacon on doughnuts and sell fat-free and sugar-free cookies, there isn’t a lot of room for foods that aren’t convenient to “my” cravings and “my” diet.

But dishes like creme brulee deserve to be treated like wine — savored and admired for the simple elegance and careful craft they represent. It isn’t hard to make, but it’s such a seemingly perfect representation of what dessert can be that you almost feel yourself declaring “this is why eggs and cream were invented — to someday help make creme brulee”.

Based on my raving, you’d be surprised at how minimalistic and understated creme brulee proves to be. Yes, it’s rich and sweet and creamy — but you’ll get a bigger kick out of a boston creme doughnut than this guy. Its strength is in its balance — it’s sweet but not overwhelming, rich but not coma-inducing, satisfying but not addicting. It leaves you feeling like you just finally became a grownup as a foodie.

So you should try it. How can you not, after that introduction?

Creme Brulee Recipe

5 egg yolks

1 pint (2 cups) heavy cream

1/2 cup sugar

1 tsp vanilla extract

Use the best ingredients you can find, since they’ll all hold their own in the final dish. I used local eggs from my friend’s farm and homemade vanilla that Rachel and I made.

Preheat your oven to 325°F. In a double boiler (or a glass/metal bowl over a pot of simmering water), beat the eggs and the cream together quickly. Add the sugar and whisk until combined; stir in the vanilla. Keep stirring as the  mixture heats up slightly; your goal is to get it a little beyond lukewarm but not very hot (or you’ll just have sweet scrambled eggs).

Lay a wet towel in a baking dish and arrange 6 custard cups or ramekins on top of it. Fill the baking dish with water as high as you comfortably can, so it surrounds the ramekins. Pour your egg mixture into the cups evenly; each one should have about 4 oz. of liquid in it.

Place in the oven to bake for about 45 minutes. It can take more or less time than that, but what you’re doing is trying to make a custard as gently as possible. The water helps keep the temperature around the ramekins as even and insulated as possible as it bakes.

Remove the cremes from the oven when they are almost completely firm (the very middle can still be a little jiggly). Cool on a rack, then put in the fridge to chill for a few hours.

To brulee: this is my favorite part. Remove your cremes from the fridge about 30 minutes before eating (if you pull them straight from the fridge before eating it’s not a huge deal). Sprinkle enough sugar on each one to evenly cover the surface without any custard showing through (usually a 1-2 tablespoons).

With a chef’s torch (or my trusty plumber’s torch), gently begin swirling an even flame over the top of the sugar. It will begin to melt into droplets; try not to let one section cook any faster than the rest. Keep torching until the sugar forms an even puddle and turns a rich dark caramel in splotches around the surface. Allow to sit briefly while you torch the other cremes before eating it.

Alternatively, if you feel more confident, hold the ramekin by your fingertips from underneath (if you hold the top the glass will burn you as it heats up). As the sugar melts, tilt and swirl the ramekin so the puddle flows evenly around the top of the custard — I find this to be a little more reliable.

After the sugar cools for a few seconds, it will harden into a thin shell over the top of the custard. Use a spoon to crack it, and scoop some of the shell with each little bite of custard you try. Eat it slowly, and enjoy!

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Hi — you will love this. A few weeks ago, after revisiting the oatmeal bread my Dad would always make when we were kids, I remembered the way he used to add a cinnamon-raisin swirl to the dough every once in awhile. A little exploring and testing later, and I have this bread for you. It’s tasty, satisfying and sweet without quite being dessert or a cinnamon roll, and it’s definitely an easy bread to bake even if you’re not an experienced baker. People will love you for it.

I remember the one “fault” with my Dad’s recipe was that the swirl tended to come apart, so you ended up with kind of a big un-winded ribbon of amazing sugar-cinnamon-walnut-raisin-coated bread. Not a bad thing (it added to the experience), but it can also be nice to have slices of bread that stay intact while you toast them and eat them.

The wisdom I found to accomplish the intact swirl was to 1) not use fat (butter) in the swirl, and 2) not put large pieces of anything in it either. It seems like a good idea to have butter since it tastes so good, but it creates a laminated layer where the dough can’t stick back together, thus the separation. It’s the same concept that makes croissants so good when it’s done on purpose.

With things like raisins and nuts, the trick is to knead them into the dough rather than wrap them in the swirl. That way you get the best of both worlds– all the delicious things you want included in your bread, but still a thin swirl that can keep its shape well.

So without further ado — here you go!

Cinnamon Swirl Bread Recipe

1 recipe oatmeal bread

1/2 cup raisins and/or chopped walnuts

1/2 cup white sugar mixed with 2 tb cinnamon

Soak the raisins in water (or rum or brandy, hey) for 30 minutes or in the microwave on high for a minute to soften them up. Mix them into the dough as you’re bringing it together, or just knead them in at the end if you forgot.

Once the dough has risen for the first time, roll it into a wide rectangle (about 1/2 inch thick) on a floured counter. Spread the cinnamon sugar mixture evenly over the dough, leaving the bottom edge uncovered to seal the dough after rolling.

Evenly roll the dough toward you, trying keep the swirl as tight as possible. Once you reach the dry edge, pinch it shut to seal the dough together.

Cut the roll in half to make the two loaves. If you want, tuck the ends under slightly — if you leave the swirl exposed like in the pictures, it can tend to drip out and crust somewhat. Not a bad thing, but your preference.

Place the loaves in greased loaf pans, and let rise until increased in size by at least half. Bake at 350 degrees for 25 minutes or until the loaf’s internal temperature is at least 180°F.

Cool, slice and enjoy! What do you think?

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Not a perfect picture, but that kind of supports what I’m trying to communicate with it. This meal was, first of all, breakfast for dinner, so you know I was treating myself to something special. Second of all, it was delicious. But I’m showing it to you specifically to talk about little victories, of the foodie variety. This plate is a picture of the journey we’re on in Rachel’s and my home, and represents the spirit of the blog you’re reading, so take a second and soak it in.

Featuring:

- Oatmeal spelt banana pancakes (delicious).

- topped with blueberry preserves, heated to make a syrup of some sort.

- pancetta (pretending to just be bacon)

- cottage cheese on the side

Here are the victories: The pancakes were made with whole spelt flour, and I ground it myself from spelt berries. The jam was the blueberry jam I made for the Food in Jars post I did last year when I learned canning for the first time. The pancetta was a gift from one of my foodie friends, who turned a very large local pig into all kinds of amazing cured meats.

It’s not as much as it could be, but it’s something and it’s progress. I try to look at the many areas where the world of food reflects serious social realities — bad industry, poor nutrition, destructive agriculture, isolated communities — as challenges to overcome, not guilt to burden ourselves with. And I think overcoming those challenges should be communal and organic (as in “growing naturally”, not “pesticide free”), not a wrestling match with our menus and our consciences.

Because honestly, it’s really hard to truly extract ourselves from the bad realities we find reflected in our food. No matter how much we eat locally or organically or nutritiously, we’ll still be enjoying some resource or other at the expense of other people or the health of our natural world.

So rather than trudging along under the endless burden of purifying our guilty food, I like to look at it as a puzzle — how can we make things better than they are when it comes to our pantry? How can I learn a new skill (baking, gardening) that allows me to rely less on bad systems and enjoy my food more? How can I integrate my community and neighbors into the process so I can help heal our broken culture? How can I mature my own tastes and palate to appreciate a food that someone made or someone grew or someone cares about?

And every time we can do one of those things, it’s a victory. So this old plate of pancakes in the picture represents the skills I’ve learned of cooking better, and more recently, grinding grain and making jam. The bacon and cottage cheese are gifts from neighbors who have passions for preparing good food and sharing extra from their pantry.

Those are victories over boring, selfish lifestyles that are reflected in our food. Recently I found some friends who wanted to start trading bread I make for local honey and local eggs. That’s a victory. A group of our friends are taking care of a cow up the road, and as a result there is a whole group of people who have never milked a cow before who honor their milking shift day after day for the sake of that victory.

So please don’t ignore the signals your food is giving you about the lifestyle and economy that surrounds you. But please also don’t be one more person who gets dragged into guilt or self-righteousness because of the ingredients you think you should be buying. Grow new habits, in the midst of better community, and celebrate each victory along the way.

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Last night instead of a romantic evening for two, we decided to have friends over to join in a fun tradition from my family: heart-shaped pizza. My Dad, as an artist, would often look for reasons to add significance or visual accent to life events, so on Valentine’s day he would take his already-much-celebrated pizza and add some of the day’s festivities into the meal. We decided to adopt (or co-opt?) the tradition for last night. Rachel even felt inspired to copy his style of meticulously cutting pepperoni into hearts as well.

… and the dog begrudgingly agreed to help with the disposal of pepperoni scraps.

“This is the moment my entire life has been leading up to.”
– the dog

(We had the extra challenge of having to prepare a meal that included options for gluten-free, dairy-free, and meat-free diets, so I’m pretty sure we earned some kind of Foodie Merit Badge for pulling that off on a pizza night.)

Pizza-as-hearts is mostly just a pun in food form; playing with shapes that we associate with a certain day. Nothing particularly symbolic. But I think it’s always worth reexamining the way we symbolize our celebrations. A day about love, but do we really celebrate love? Spending a little too much money, expecting prescribed theatrics of romantic expression, giving the same flowers and sitting at the same tables at the same overpriced restaurants as dozens of other couples around us?

A moment to celebrate (or be forced to remember) romance is not out of place. A time to celebrate the people in your life, or the Person you spend your life with, is a beautiful reminder of the things we take for granted that are secretly keeping us afloat. But we shouldn’t let “traditions” become monotonous rituals. “Thanksgiving — eat too much. Christmas — buy too much. New Year’s — drink too much. Valentine’s Day — spend too much”. What were the real meanings that were being celebrated by these events in the first place, and are our traditions still making them real to us?

For Rachel and I, right now, a lot of the love we experience is woven into and tangled up in our community. We have good friends who bring a lot of different flavors of love and excitement and companionship and inspiration into our lives, and without really thinking about it we decided Valentine’s Day should be time celebrating that spirit of friendship in our lives. We had 6 other friends join at our table with some pizza and salad and pretty-cheap-wine, and it was satisfying.

Maybe next year we won’t do the same thing — it’s not about getting rid of date nights. But is your date night important because it expresses and celebrates the unique character and journey of the love in your life, or is it important because you’ll feel like you screwed up if you did something different?

Let’s remember to create authentic love traditions in our lives.

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This oatmeal bread is a very special bread to me. When we were growing up, it was a favorite among the many delicious baked goods my Dad would frequently make; it would fill the house with its toasty-sweet aroma and our mouths with soft and chewy joy. It’s a great all-around bread, but in some situations it’s also close to a perfect bread: toasted lightly and spread with butter and honey, and laying the foundation for a well-fried, “runny” egg at breakfast.  Many a breakfast in my childhood home was brought to this near-perfection-via-home-baking, and it had a lasting impression on my inner baker.

Which means it may not surprise you that my family’s oatmeal bread was also the first loaf of bread I ever baked on my own (probably). In fact, I recommend it as a “beginner bread” for anyone trying to get into baking, because the effort-to-reward ratio is so great. You can learn all the basics of mixing, kneading, rising, shaping and baking without being too worried about the results being less than stellar.

The (metaphorical) icing on the cake for this bread came awhile after we became more entangled in Mennonite culture through our friends and community: I found out the original recipe is from the infamous (well, menno-infamous) More With Less Cookbook. It makes sense; this kind of hearty, warming, welcoming food with a lot of thought behind it is just the kind of thing that tends to grow forth from the heart of that faith tradition.

So, I’m glad to pass it on to you. On to the recipe!

Oatmeal Bread Recipe

1 cup quick oats (rolled oats would work fine as well)

1/2 cup whole wheat flour

1/2 cup brown sugar

2 tablespoons butter

1 tablespoon salt

2 cups boiling water, plus 1/2 cup water at room temp

2.5 tsp yeast

5 cups unbleached flour

optional: egg white and rolled oats, for topping

Put the oats, whole what flour, sugar, butter, and salt in a large bowl. Pour the boiling (or near boiling) water into the mix and mix thoroughly. Allow to cool. This is the step you’ll mess up, if any, because if you’re impatient and don’t let the mix cool down, you risk killing the yeast (yeast dies around 110-120°F). Don’t continue until the mix feels like warmish tapwater when you stick your finger to the bottom.

Mix the yeast and water together and rest for five minutes, then add to the oats and everything. This is really only a necessary step if you are using Active Dry yeast rather than Instant Dry Yeast, since the first type needs some time to wake up and get going… but it doesn’t hurt anything to do it this way. Feel free to dump it all in at once if that’s your preference.

Add the five cups of flour in batches. Everyone scoops flour differently, so it’s more important to get the dough to the right consistency than to jam in  ”exactly five cups of flour”. Add 3 or 4 cups, mix really well, and once it’s too thick to mix with a spoon, dump it onto a floured counter and keep kneading in the rest of the flour until the dough is smooth and pretty sturdy. Even if it’s a little on the sticky side, it’ll be better off than overly dry dough.

Form the dough into a ball and return it to a clean, lightly oiled bowl. Cover loosely with plastic wrap or a towel, and set it aside to rise until it has roughly doubled in volume (this should take around an hour).

Divide the dough in half, and gently press each half into a rectangle. Fold the top third of the rectangle down and the bottom third up and press the seam gently to create a rough cylinder of dough. Roll it under your hands a little to even it out, then place in a greased loaf pan. Cover loosely and allow to rise again.

You’ll know it’s ready to bake when it has again increased in size (although maybe not double), and bounces back very slowly when you poke it lightly with a finger. Preheat your oven to 350 when you think you’re getting close to that point (it might take 20-40 minutes to rise).

Right before baking, tape a very sharp or serrated knife and cut a line right down the middle of the top of each loaf, about 1/2 inch deep. If you like the idea of having some sprinkled oats on top, just beat an egg white with a little water, brush it lightly over the loaves, and sprinkle with whole oats.

Bake for 25-35 minutes, until the crust is deep golden brown or the inside of the loaf registers at least 180°F on an instant-read thermometer. Remove from oven, cool for a few minutes, then remove from pans to finish cooling. Enjoy a slice or two while they’re warm, and store in plastic bags for future delicious meals!

Try it out and let me know what you think!

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Vanilla has actually been on our “do it ourselves” list for a long time. I had heard from various sources that it wasn’t hard to pull off (which is true), and it just seemed like something that would be a nice addition to our arsenal (and give us a few more points toward our already substantial Foodie Cred).

So finally, we went for it. As a relatively poor and somewhat responsible young couple, we wanted to come up with some affordable-yet-meaningful homemade gifts to give out, and vanilla fit the bill. We found some cool little bottles and figured out how to print/stamp some sweet labels (hence the Pinterest-y presentation in the photos — our own stash is in a mason jar, don’t worry), and pretty soon had some sweet little homemade treasures to give out.

The process is really easy — chop up vanilla beans and soak in vodka. I ultimately bought my beans from this ebay store because it was fairly affordable (vanilla beans are never cheap) and you can pick your quantities and varieties pretty easily. He also has instructions on the page on how to do this recipe and what grades of beans to use, etc, so it seems like a winner.

Make sure to give yourself a month or two to make this — it’s a very easy and low-maintenance process, but it just takes time for the alcohol to absorb the vanilla’s flavors adequately.

Here we go!

Homemade Vanilla Extract

1/4 pound vanilla beans

1 quart (or liter) cheapo vodka

Ready? Chop up the vanilla beans and drop into the bottle of vodka (you may have to pour out a little to make room for the vanilla; I’m sure you can find something to do with the extra).

Set the (closed) bottle aside somewhere, and shake it once a day or so to redistribute the beans. After a month the extract will be strong enough, but it’ll keep getting stronger if you keep going for a few more months, so feel free.

Strain out the beans, find some trendy bottles, and set your awesome extract aside for some delicious recipes. Like this one!

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Took some photos while we were making pizza the other night. I got a matching baking stone over the holidays to go with the one we already have, so now I can have a wall-to-wall stone oven for bread and pizza. Along with the gift of a new camera lens, it makes for some great shots of one of everybody’s favorite foods.

I’m working toward being able to slide the pizzas straight onto the stone with my pizza peel, without needing the extra help of parchment paper. This was a very wet dough, so it seemed like too much of a gamble that I might lose a pizza while I practiced. These turned out great, by the way… you can’t see them in the shot, but I tried a couple “white” pizzas as well, and they were fantastic.

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The bagel, like the cheesesteak, is a food that has such fanatical regional loyalty that I’m pretty cautious to claim that I can make them. Many would say that the only truly great bagels are from Jewish bakeries in New York city — made with New York water, boiled in lye, and served with your topping of choice.

I’m not from New York, and have never worked at  Jewish bakery, but I like to think my taste in bagels is up to judging my own work. Forget the soft, roll-like version in the bread aisle, or the dense and boring bagels from the frozen section. Great bagels are fresh, flavorful, and beautifully chewy, with a golden, almost rubbery-in-a-good-way crust.

I searched around for consensus on the best way to reproduce this wonderful bread at home, and landed eventually on a recipe from one of my favorite books, Bread Baker’s Apprentice by Peter Reinhart. The recipe below is based pretty strongly on his, and I can attest to the results.

The keys to creating a great bagel at home are:

- Firm, almost “dry” dough (not sticky at all)

- An alkaline water bath boil before baking (hence the baking soda)

Beyond that — like all bread, bagels do well if you take time and care to let their flavor develop. The method I’m writing lets them proof in the fridge overnight so the flour has time to release flavor before the yeast goes nuts. It also means that if your fridge is cool enough, you can bake them really whenever your schedule allows the next day. The last time I baked them, I waited almost 24 hours before getting them back out of the fridge to boil and bake. Try it and see what works.

When you knead your dough, it will perpetually feel like you can’t get any more flour into it, but keep trying. Knead until the surface becomes sticky again, and then put more flour on the counter for the dough to absorb. The ideal ratio is twice as much flour (by weight) as water, so the closer you can get the better off you’ll be. Persevere.

Shaping: there are two ways to go about making a bagel dough blob into a bagel-shaped bagel. The first is to make a ball, punch your thumb through the middle, and then twirl it around until you have a larger hole and the dough is inner-tube shaped.

The second way, to which I have recently converted, is to roll the dough into a “rope”, but leave the very ends un-rolled and puffy – kind of like a “dog bone”. Wrap the rope around your hand, overlapping the soft ends, and then roll the seam under your hand on the counter until joined and smooth. Even though your hand is obviously bigger than the hole we’re used to in the middle of the bagel, the dough will contract during rising and puff out during boiling/baking and will look more normal by the end.

Last of all, if you want to go an extra step, try this: after boiling the bagels, place them upside-down on a pan lined with damp canvas (or some other thick, close-woven cloth). Bake this way for the first 5 minutes, then flip over onto a parchment-lined pan and finish the bake. What this does is allow the bottom of the bagel to bake and round out a little while the top stays moist, so when you flip it over and the top bakes, the bagel is rounder on both sides. If you use any kind of topping, just dip the bagel in it before placing it topping-side down on the canvas.

Bagels Recipe

sponge:

2 cups water

3.5 cups high-gluten flour

(or bread flour plus one tablespoon vital wheat gluten)

1 tsp yeast

final dough:

2 1/2 tsp salt (table salt, not kosher)

1/2 tsp yeast

1 tablespoon malt syrup/powder, or brown sugar

2 1/2 – 3 cups bread flour

for the boil:

2-4 tablespoons baking soda and

1 tablespoon malt or brown sugar

per quart of water

Mix the sponge and let it rest, covered, at room temperature for 2 hours or until somewhat bubbly

Add the salt, additional yeast, and malt/sugar and mix thoroughly. (If you’re using malt powder, mix it into the first cup of flour (dry) before you add to the sponge).

Mix in the flour gradually until the dough is too stiff to mix, then dump onto the counter and continue to knead, incorporating more flour as you go. The dough will be very stiff; try to get as much of the flour as possible kneaded into it smoothly.

Once the dough is kneaded and smooth, immediately divide into 12-16 equal portions, depending on what size bagel you want. Let the dough relax for 5-10 minutes, then shape into bagel rounds according to instructions above.

Space the bagels evenly on a pan lined with parchment paper and cover with oiled plastic. Leave at room temperature for 20 minutes, then place in fridge overnight.

When you’re ready to bake the next day, bring a pot of water to a boil and add the baking soda and sugar (sometimes it helps to briefly take it off the heat to add these, so it doesn’t foam over). Boil the bagels in the water for 30-60 seconds each, then bake on parchment-lined pans at 425°F until golden brown and firm. Enjoy the fruits of your labor, and share with friends!

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Happy New Year, friends! I hope your holidays have been full of togetherness, rest, and great food. To celebrate the new year, today is the unveiling of the new site design for Foodie’s Arsenal.

There are lots of new things to check out, so I encourage you to explore. The main theme of this update though, is simplicity. My goal was to streamline the site and make it easier to use– get rid of distracting elements on the page, smooth out some of the visuals, and improve the user experience for you as readers and supporters of the community.

I’ll be continuing to update various parts of the site over the next few days, so feel free to report bugs and suggest more features/fixes as you take a look around. For now though, I’ll give you a couple of the highlights that come out of this switch:

Responsive Design — rather than continue to code and tweak the old design to respond to user needs, the new site is on a whole new responsive framework that I’ve edited to fit the needs of Foodie’s Arsenal’s design and user needs. What this does is makes it (hopefully) extremely easy to view and use on a variety of screen sizes and devices. To get an idea of what this means, try dragging the corner of your browser window to resize the viewing screen– the site moves and shifts along with it. Since so many people are using smartphones, tablets, and all kinds of monitor resolutions, I wanted to make it that much simpler to access the resources

Easy Navigation – The new theme is set up to use a really neat “breadcrumbs” banner at the top of every page, which is a feature we haven’t had before. I’ve structured the posts around categories that will display in that banner, so it’s easier to explore other recipes and posts no matter what page you’re reading. The “recipes” page is now a link to the main “recipes” category (rather than its own freestanding page) and I’ve designed it to be a jumping-off point to look through the other categories

Beyond that, I’m open to suggestions! I’ve always had a page featuring kitchen equipment I like/recommend, but no one has seemed too interested in it. I can improve or cut that page in exchange for something better,  I just like hearing first what everyone is looking for.

Exciting times! Chime in with your thoughts, then go enjoy the beautiful first days of 2013 with those you love.

Thanks,

Todd

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After taking a little time off from the blog, I wanted to share today that I’m taking a little more time to revamp Foodie’s Arsenal and do some spring cleaning and streamlining. I’ve been running the blog for over a year now, and have learned a lot of things about a lot of things in that time, so I’m excited to be rebuilding the blog with fresh eyes and a better understanding of what a site like this should be. So be ready– new things are on the rise, and they should be pretty cool.

Which means also that this is a great time for input if you think you have any (leave it in the comments below so we can all see it). What do you think the site needs? Is there anything that’s awkward or unnecessary, or more importantly, anything that could make the site a lot better?

One big change that I think will be helpful is that the new Foodie’s Arsenal is going to be built on a fluid layout, which means it’ll be a lot easier to use on all screen sizes than it is now. Since a lot of us are trying out the Kindles or whatever kids like these days (heh), it’s good to keep up with the needs of users and readers as we grow.

Another thing I’m considering is cleaning up the recipes so they’re easier to read. My goal in putting so many step-by-step photos in each recipe was to help make the cooking process easier, but I think at the same time it can make the reading process more difficult. It’s a lot of extra photography for me, so if it’s not a helpful feature it’s a good thing to update. The future recipes (sigh, and yes, maybe I’ll edit the old ones…) would be a little more streamlined and printer-friendly, and not so chopped up by little step by step photos. If that’s something you think is a good idea, again, leave your thoughts below so I can know.

Other than that, the sky’s the limit! What are good things about the site you’d like to see stick around/done more with? What are ideas that aren’t happening here that you wish we could work in?

Thanks for your input, and for your patience as we get everything updated.

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