for the love of : italy

iFAQs

2026-06-24T06:00:00.000-05:00

Stumped? I'll try and answer some of the questions about Italy that we had, too. If you have questions not answered here, get in touch with me at ForTheLoveOfItaly@att.net... I'll get back to you!

Knowing the answers to italian Frequently Asked Questions (iFAQs) makes you a better traveler!

Q: Will I need a passport?

You betcha! I highly encourage all people to have a passport ~ even if they aren't considering international travel. I once missed out on a last-minute business trip to London because I didn't have a passport so the following week I got the ball rolling to get mine. Also know that unless you pay a lot of money, you cannot get your passport at the drop of a cowboy hat. So allow a few weeks to get yours. The single official passport office in Texas is located in Houston, so if you're in a time-squeeze and have to travel to get an expedited passport, book your next meal in Houston.

Another tip is to keep your passport updated! If you have less than a year left on your passport, get it renewed in advance. Did you know there are actually some countries that require you've had your passport a certain amount of time in your hands BEFORE you leave for travel and some countries that require you have a certain amount of time on your passport BEYOND your return travel date? I didn't. These rules are loosely referred to as "entrance requirements" for countries. Don't assume your U.S. expiration date shown on your passport means you can travel at will across the globe up to - and including - that date.

Fun Fact: I had a big scare in '08 when my passport was expiring 9/1/08 and my return travel was 7/14/08. The Houston Passport Agency told me I'd need to get my passport renewed for travel to Italy because my passport was expiring within 90 days of my return travel date. This sent me into a complete tailspin as I heard of this knowledge nugget just two days before I was leaving for Italy!

Still true
to this day:
Phone calls from the Italian Embassy in D.C. and the Italian Consulate in Dallas went unreturned, so I resorted to prayer beads, trouble dolls, garlic and insane amounts of wine to work my issues out. Subsequently, I interrogated US Airways and called the Passport agency multiple times and was reassured this was not correct according to their information. Misinformation is out there so always recheck your sources if it doesn't feel right! Despite reading posts that argued the expiration matter back and forth, I am telling you from personal experience I traveled without issue.

Regardless, raise your right hand, cross your heart and repeat after me: "I promise to keep my passport updated at least a year in advance of return travel and I'll enjoy life free and clear." Passport renewal costs about $75 plus the mental olympics associated with successfully completing the renewal form. I promptly renewed after my '08 close-call and surprisingly received the new passport 10 days from when I sent it in. But don't assume only 10 days! Online Renewal Information Here. Enough said!

Q: I don't speak Italian. Should I be concerned?

Only if you don't try to speak Italian! Italians are incredibly forgiving of foreigners who attempt to speak the language. If you just yammer to them in English, be prepared for the same to be returned. But in Italian.

If you know Spanish, you're halfway there, as the Italian language resembles a fine blend of Spanish and French and seasoned with lots of hand gesturing.

The best book we found is the Rick Steve's Italian phrase book. It's compact and well-organized. We later took two semesters of Italian at SMU and this helped make our most recent trip much easier (less fumbling with the book).

Q: When's the best time of year to travel to Italy?

If you're doing things in or around water, you'll want to plan on summer travel. It'll be hot, but who wants to swim in cold water? I've been 4 times in June thru September and the weather is typically hot, like Texas. Inland cities like Rome, Florence and Milan were really hot. If you're around coastal cities, the wind will treat you to breezy breaks from the heat. My travels to Liguria were in April and it was like San Francisco weather ~ chilly at night (sweater weather) and shorts during the day.

Spring was my favorite time to go because I wasn't so pre-occupied with the heat.

Q: What travel agent did you use?

Me! All six times.

There are several online resources and websites that will make planning and customizing your trip an easy thing to do. When booking online, be cautious to allow enough time for connecting flights - especially if clearing customs in Italy with a connection thereafter. We lost luggage twice on two separate trips in Paris' Charles de Gaulle airport because of tight connections and the "French Factor".

A Rule of Thumb: I learned that hotels can be nice, but B&Bs offer more intimate service and a short- or long-term rental can be a very cost effective, authentic way to stay. For recent travels, we booked a villa rental using the ParkerVillas.com and I'd recommend them to you in a snap.

So don't be afraid to book your own trip! It's during this experience you'll learn more about what you want to do and in the process, how easy it is to do it yourself! If you're time-starved or nervous, email me @ ForTheLoveOfItaly@ATT.net as I'm happy to help outside all the tips on this site for a reasonable price and custom service from me to you.

Q: Where and when did you go?

Here's a list of the places we visited. The blue links will take you to individual posts where you can read more about that location. I have many more posts to complete (a good sign)?

2006 ~ Naples, Capri, Pompeii, Rome, Florence

2007 ~ Genoa, Cinque Terre, Portofino (and Nice, France)

2008 ~ Naples (Part II), Herculaneum, Capri (Part II), Ischia, Procida, Sorrento, Conca dei Marini, Amalfi, Positano and the awesome village of Ravello.

2009 ~ More beautiful Italy!

2010 ~ S. Albino, Montepulciano, Cortona, Pienza, San Gimignano, Siena, Cinque Terre (Part II) Portovenere, Parma, Maranello, and Pisa!

2011 ~ We tipped our hats to Milan, Venice, Murano, Burano, Verona, Lake Como (Bellagio, Menaggio, Varenna, Cernobbio)... even St. Moritz, Switzerland!

2012 - 2013 ~ This adventure was a life-changing, long-term stay that brought rich insight into Italian living. You can read the posts entitled "A Tuscan Holiday" for more details.

2026 ~ After relocating back to Texas from Italy, plus the COVID pandemic that wrecked our 2020 trip, we had our farthest southern adventure in Italy - Palermo, Sicily. We enjoyed our first trip to Barcelona, Spain, to boot, which brought more contrast and clarity to the Italian way of life.

Q: What about tour groups? Do you suggest them?

Personally, I'm not a fan of organized tour packages where you spend your entire trip with a group of people visiting a pre-set list of things to do... maybe if I reach my golden years, where strength in numbers will be important when traveling.

In the meantime, I am a fan of "a la carte tour grouping" where you pick and choose when to use tour groups. Tour groups help you leverage the Italian smarts of a tour guide as well as prioritized line position, but only for a limited portion of your trip, when you decide it's right for you. See my post on Rome where I mention how tour grouping expedited seeing The Coliseum and The Vatican Museum.

Q: OK, I've booked my trip. Got any packing tips?

Take what you need and need what you take. There's nothing worse than carting around pounds of unused items. Our first year we were advised by a friend to dress up not down and we spent most of our trip wishing we had packed more shorts. So unless you're going to the Vatican, inside a church or fancy restaurants, plan on shorts for the summer and jeans/sweaters for the winter. For the Amalfi trip in Summer 2008, I took one pair of jeans and never wore them. Sweet!

Must-take items include: Your itinerary, passport, toiletry essentials and any medications. Your favorite translation book. A journal for writing down the wonderful things you experience. Also after being separated in customs one year, we now activate our phones for international calling emergencies or just to help with ease of use (See the FAQ "What About Phones?" below).

Optional items you'll want to consider taking include: headphones for the transatlantic stretch (airlines are now charging ~$5 for these). Noise-canceling headphones are a plus! Suntan lotion (if you're picky about what you use).

Common items we've forgotten include: A corkscrew, the iPod, our international power converter and portions of our itinerary. One year we didn't take a charger and we stocked-up on lithium batteries. But if you're going to be activating your phone internationally, you'll need a way to recharge it, unless it's being turned on for emergencies only.

Perhaps my greatest of tips is for you to read my Pisa post where you'll learn a very valuable lesson about international travel.

Q: What about phones?

There are several options to fulfill your need for a telefono. You'll want to balance cost with convenience when making your choice.

#1. Calling Cards: These are easy to purchase at local "bars" and a great option if you don't need to be reached, but plan on calling others when you're ready to talk. You can get cards in small amounts like 5 Euro, so this is probably the cheapest option.

#2. Rent or Purchase A Throw-Away: You can purchase a phone in Italy that is pre-loaded with minutes and use it as you need to. Don't expect fancy features but it's probably cheaper than option #3 below. Again you'll need to let your friends know your new number.

#3. Activate Your Phone: This is a great option if you want to make it seamlessly easy for folks back home to find you. They would simply call you as they usually do.

To activate, our carrier (AT&T) offers an international plan that is about $6/month to turn-on plus a per-minute usage (about $1 per minute). You can turn off the plan when you return from your trip. You'll need to ensure your phone is able to handle the international wireless network. We have internationally-friendly Blackberrys, so this wasn't a problem for us. If your phone isn't already pre-wired to accept the international network, you can also purchase an International SIM Card.

Before you leave, make sure and get the "4-1-1" from your carrier on your "new" European phone number. AT&T told us we'd had a new number and our friends said they were able to reach us from Dallas simply by calling our regular, 10-digit Texas-based number. Go figure.

Q: What's the best way to get Euro cash?

We avoid money-changing stations. For us, the most convenient way is to let your credit card do the work for you. You can obtain Euros from "bancomats" (Italian ATMs) and the conversion rate in effect for that day will automatically post to your bank account. Your bank can let you know if there are any conversion fees involved, which is likely. This is huge: Make sure you call your bank before your trip and give them the dates (and countries) of your travel. Regardless, one year, my credit union turned off my credit card "for my protection," which almost ruined the trip. That credit union is now my former credit union! Always have a "Plan B" especially when it comes to money!

Q: What's up with these city names? Roma? Firenze? Napoli?

Most cities and villages in Italy have two names: 1) Their original, given, Italian name and 2) The name foreigners give them (I think it's because we "dumb" 'em down).

So when in Italy, "Rome" is really called "Roma." "Florence" is "Firenze." And "Naples" is "Napoli." There are exceptions, like "Capri" is still "Capri," so just be on the alert. I had a melt-down at the train ticket kiosk in Naples when I was looking for a ticket to Florence and only saw Firenze. At first I thought I was going to miss my train until I poked my own finger to head. "Duh, I get it... now!"

Q: What are common ways to get around within Italy?

Airplane: You might need to transfer from one international city (Milan) to your final destination city (Naples), depending on your itinerary. Flying direct rocks, but it's pricey.

Train: If you haven't heard the 4-1-1 about the European train system, it rocks! Trains will help connect you from large cities to quaint villages. Check out Rail Europe for maps and ticket reservations. You can get an a la carte ticket for one destination, or a pass valid for several days. Train Tip: Avoid the train pain ~ remember to validate your tickets before boarding the train or else you could get fined! Tickets are not usually dated when purchased so must be validated by you prior to boarding.

Bus: Very common in larger cities. These are great ways to get around at an affordable price. When my luggage was delayed from Paris' Charles de Gaulle airport, I spent 3 € getting back to the Genoa airport via bus. On the way back via taxi? $40 €. The difference? Ouch!

Car: In the Italian countryside, a car rental will make total sense. But I'd avoid driving in big cities, like Naples or Rome. The Italians are very aggressive behind the wheel. You'll notice several missing side-view mirrors because of how close to each other they drive... and fast! The Italians use their horns as frequently as we say y'all.

Taxi: Yeah, they have those, too! Great for shorter distances when you're on the run and maybe traveling with luggage (like to and from the airport).

Vaporetto: A "water bus" will be your most affordable way of travel in Venice and its surrounding waterworlds. As you board the floating platform for the next arrival, don't expect it to be *the* boat, like I did. It's a safe haven until the buoyant bus approaches. Next stop? Adventure!

Hydrofoil: This isn't something you cook with, folks. It's a boat that rises up on the water when it reaches fast speeds. We took a hydrofoil between Naples and Capri.

Funicular: Think of a funicular as a slow-moving train that goes up or downhill.

You'll find funiculars in the "steep" parts of Italy and they are a form of public transportation you'll want to acquaint yourself with (unless you enjoy walking up and down hills).

Tip: Watch-out though for the folks issuing funicular tickets while on Capri ~ I've been there twice and short-changed twice. Make sure and count your money before leaving the ticket counter!

Lo Scooter: Believe it or not, I learned to scooter on the Amalfi Coast... which is not suggested for first-timers, unless you're a joy-seeker.

Scooters are a great option if you like to stop on the fly at scenic spots, traveling in hilly inclines too challenging for mere mortal walking or for jet-setting on small distance trips. Check out my post on Conca dei Marini where I mention how a scooter rental saved my life... and made the trip awesome!

Q: What about the gypsies? Are they a problem?

We read about the gypsies and it was pretty much all false. In all our travels to Italy, we've only encountered gypsies one time: in Florence, standing in line outside the Duomo. Personally, I think Italy is safer than walking to my corner liquor store. But it doesn't hurt to take reasonable precautions, like keeping your wallet in your front pocket to prevent any pick-pocketing.

One other place we encountered unsolicited folks was in our recent trip through Milan's central train station where two strangers literally pushed me away from the kiosk so they could help me purchase my tickets (for money, of course).

Never fear. I prevailed.

Q: How's the pizza?

Um, it's really good. And not like "meat lovers pan pizza from Pizza Hut good!" Italian pizza is simple. Thin crust. Basic and good toppings. Less is more. And you'll love it.

Italians don't usually slice their pizza unless you're buying it solely by the slice, which is something I think they do solely for clapping tourists. So make sure if you take a pizza to go, you ask your server to slice it for you before you leave. Molto bene!

Q: Bidet, Mate!? (a.k.a. What's a bidet?")

Every hotel, B&B and rental we've been to in Italy has a bidet. It's like a European toilet's side car. You'll see. I don't understand them, but just go with the flow; stick to the toilet and you'll feel almost at home, on your familiar throne away from home.

Q: Is it true what they say - "A Gelato A Day...?"

Yes, it's true. Have gelato
*at least once* each and every day.

You will be better for it, look Italian, smile while having the lick of your life AND lose weight. If you don't have a gelato each and every a day, you'll probably gain weight and lose your popularity.

Seriously.
; )

Proof: I ate 2 gelatos a day in 2008 and lost 8 pounds on my trip. Shazam!

You'll find gelaterias (the place you get the tasty stuff) a-plently while in Italy. Indulge in the presentation of fruit atop the creamy stuff. Want a bigger gelato? Click the pic up above and enjoy!

Q: I want to look Italian on the beach. What do I do?

Have a tan, for the love of Italy!

If you're thin and a minimalist, you'll fit in, "just like flin." Satellite-sized sunglasses a plus.

Searching for an Italian mankini or the female derivative while in Italy? I purchased my Colmar mankini in Ravello and wore it with pride, despite the fact I have >10% body fat.

When in doubt, suck it in, patriots!

Q: What are some important phrases to remember in Italian?

1. Parla inglese? (means "do you speak English?").
2. Scusi, parlo l'italiano un puo. ("Excuse me, I speak little Italian").
3. Accetate carte di credito? ("Do you take credit card?")
4. Ho i fianchi larghi! ("I have large hips!")
5. Metterò una gonna aderente per l'occasione. ("I'll wear a tight skirt for the occasion.")
6. Sono indignato! ("I'm outraged!")
7. Con o senza ghiaccio? ("With or without ice?")
8. Scherzavo! ("I was kidding!")
9. Che giornata! ("What a day!")
10. Devo fare un prelievo, c'è un Bancomat? ("I have to withdraw money, is there an ATM?")
11. Grazie per l'aiuto. ("Thanks for your help.")
12. Con affetto. ("With love.")
13. Ho bisogno di un antidolorifico. ("I need a painkiller!")

Q: If I live in Dallas, what can I do to bring Italy closer?

Eat like an Italian!
Nothing in Texas is truly Italian, but there are some great Italian-inspired restaurants around the city. My favorite casual Italian hot-spots include Terilli's on Greenville Avenue and Patrizio - a restaurant named after me, of course! Angelo's pizza is perhaps my favorite and out-of-towners love Campisi's. Nonna's crab ravioli is molto bene, so give it a try. Also, there's Daniele Osteria on Oak Lawn. A cheese lover? Molto Formaggio is a recent add to the foodie scene and you'll find some unique flavors here.

Cook like an Italian!
There's a New York-style Italian market near downtown called Jimmy's Food Store that offers a great assortment of Italian goods. Jimmy's fresh-made sandwiches are great. Good wine selection. Need an artful appetizer? Top bread with their olive salad and bake at 350°F for about 20 minutes for an easy, tasty appetizer guests will think you had brought in. And for the love of Italy, don't forget to top it with fresh parmigiano reggiano! My crostini recipe is located here.

Shop like an Italian!
Explore and shop local markets around the city. My favorites? I just recently visited Dallas' Mozzarella Company down in Deep Ellum and left with an arm full of cheeses including scamorza, mozzarella with green olive and mozzarella with pesto. You can also sign-up for classes for cheese making or artful wine or beer pairings for cheese. The Mozzarella Company's neighbor Rudolph's Market & Sausage Factory has amazing meats that will remind you of an Italian macelleria, and they also sell fresh artisan breads from Empire Bread Company. My favorite is the Pane Paisano (shown at right).

Speak Like An Italian!
Learn the beauty of the Italian language! We did, and it helped make our last Italian adventure much easier on the communication efforts. We enrolled in SMU's beginning Italian and took two semesters of it from an Italian native named Damiano. He's hilarious. Best of all we've met some great people in our class ~ one who let us stay on her and her husband's yacht for free during our '08 adventure. I know! Big Texas props to you, Jeanie and David! So you never know who you're going to meet in the classes. Enroll today!

Damiano said a great best way to orient yourself to the language is by quite literally listening to it all the time. Immerse yourself as much as possible. So pop-in your favorite Italian flick and leave the TV on as "white noise" during your daily chores. Let your ears adapt to the Italian language.

Check with your programming provider about adding International Programming for your listening and viewing pleasure. Our provider (DirecTV) doesn't offer the network we liked when in Italy, so we haven't taken the plunge... yet.

There's also an Italian Club of Dallas that has ongoing events and things to do. They're based in Addison. We've not participated yet, but there were folks in our class who did. More information here.

Read Like An Italian!
(or at least read a good book written by one). I stumbled upon Too Much Tuscan Sun surfing Amazon and quickly ordered it. Written by Dario Castagno, you'll gain great insight into the heart of Tuscany's Chianti region through easy to digest, short chapters. This one's a page turner and I spent many weekends slowly reading this as it made me feel like I had been whisked away to Italy for an insider's view of Tuscany - and the tourists who flock there. Just like a fine wine, you'll lose yourself in the rich, bold insight. Ironically titled, however, there could never truly be "too much" Tuscan sun!

Sing Like An Italian!
Since you're online, you can listen to our favorite radio station for "very normal people" here. Just click the 102.5 FM link at left and let the love of Italian music tickle your ear drums.

Need A Quick Fix?
Rent (or preferably buy)
Under The Tuscan Sun. While this movie may be over-the-top sunrise peachy-happy, it brings to life the beauty of Italy. The laughter. And the hope we all have for our preferred "home away from home."

Q: Do you have a useless tips for me?

You betcha!

Useless Fact #1: I took two semesters of Italian but never knew this - the Italian alphabet is ~20% shorter than our Anglo version because there are no J, K, W, X, or Y characters found in the language. So how, then, do we spell "Texas" or "y'all," y'all?

Useless Fact #2: Scared about going to a big, unknown country far, far, away? Tackle this on for size ~ while going to Italy is a huge event, don't let the thought of traveling there intimidate you. Italy is just 1/2 as large as Texas, in size. Italy is 116,305 square miles in size vs. its parter Texas, which weighs-in at a beefy 266,807 square miles.

Taking a closer look, Italy is comprised of about 20 regions compared to the 254 counties in Texas. That means the Italian regions can roughly "hold" about 25 Texas counties, on average. Suddenly Italy doesn't seem so small, right?

You'll find just like within Texas as well as the U.S. Italy offers varied and unique dialects, traditions - even pasta dishes! Size aside the regions of Italy pack a ton of grandeur within the country's version of the Texas "boot," proving size doesn't matter - quality does!

for the love of : italy

Ciao!

2026-06-22T21:00:00.000-05:00

If you're reading this, welcome to my little space in cyberland that honors all things Italian.

Italy is the brightest and most beautiful far and away country I've traveled to so I created this blog to make a permanent place for friends and fans to access and share information about the great place we call Italy (locals call it Italia).

I've been very lucky to have traveled to Italy seven times in a seven year span - my family of 2 humans and 2 Labs even relocated to Tuscany for 3 months to fully immerse ourselves in the Italian way of living.

The best advice I can give if you're "on the fence" about booking your trip to Italy is to stop waiting and start experiencing! I never met anyone who had a disappointing trip to Italy. For me, the history, the people, the food, and the views are what make Italy a truly unique and magical place! Through my adventures I've learned that Italy and Texas have more in common than you might think. You can learn a little bit more about the story behind that story on my "about" page.

How To Get The Most From This Site: Make sure and explore this site; it's built from my personal travels, which you'll see accessible via the right-hand navigation. If my energies were well-spent, you'll find some useful information here as I've helped folks build their travel itineraries from my experiences.

Blue highlighted words (<--- except these ones) are hyperlinks to other sites with even more information, so don't be afraid to click and learn. Text that is purple is for the really important stuff. I've also birthed some Italian Frequently Asked Questions (I called them iFAQs) that should help you if you're an Italian novice. You can quick link to city posts using the side navigation at right. Click on images to enlarge them for close-up viewing. There are unexpected great finds (a.k.a. "Easter Eggs") on this site. See if you can find them all!

So grab a bottle of your favorite vino, start reading and have fun! Your reading experience will be heightened if listening to Bocelli. Before you leave this site you can bookmark our main site ForTheLoveOfItaly.com which will connect to our various online channels. Grazie!

~ Patrick

Connecting the two great lands of Italy and Texas

for the love of : italy

Lucca

2015-07-17T18:02:00.000-05:00

The Walls Of Lucca

Many have heard of Lucca, Italy.

Sadly, not everyone can say they have been there.

On more than one trip to Italy we breezed by the exit signs for Lucca. It wasn't until 2013 when we finally made the journey during our 3-month stay in Italy. How nice it is to say we've visited this awesome village!

Lucca is a wonderfully walled Tuscan town that effortlessly fell into our hearts just like Montepulciano, Cortona and Florence. The winter day was sunny and bright and we had our two best friends with us - our Labs Boomer and Harley. Sounds like the perfect ingredients for a day of fun. And it was.

We packed a picnic lunch and a light agenda that included nothing more advanced than walking the city. Somehow these simple ingredients created a super-special day that forever landed Lucca in our hearts.

Suggested Stay:

A day trip. Preferably longer.

Getting To Lucca:

We arrived to Lucca via car from our stay in Castiglion Fiorentino in eastern Tuscany. Our drive lasted just under 2 hours and was well-worth the journey. Situated near the Autostrada A11, Lucca's nearest and bigger city sister is Pisa which is only 17 kilometers away (about 30 minutes via car or train).

Must See & Do:

Lucca's City Walls - Lucca's signature feature is its long medieval city wall that surrounds the village. The wall originally sat just inside a moat that wrapped Lucca like a halo and you can still see evidence of the moat in the recessed grade adjacent to the various walls. A great way to see the perimeter of the original city is to enjoy a leisurely 360 degree "loop-de-loop" walk all around it ... then venture into the inner city streets for close-up adventures. A walk or run along the wall is about 3 miles and we enjoyed every step. You can see more of Lucca's walking routes here at Map My Walk.

Piazza dell'Anfiteatro - I needed a wider lens to capture all the beauty of this elliptical-shaped plaza. The origin of the piazza dates to the Middle Ages and it was built outside Lucca (now it looks to be a part of the city proper). The piazza has served in various forms over the years including an amphitheater for gladiators and "beasts," a city market and a meeting center for the residents of Lucca. Click the pic above for a larger view!

Basilica di San Frediano - The architecture of this Romanesque church will set your senses on an adventure of art, color and texture. We enjoyed the mosaic of The Ascension of Christ the Savior as the sun said "ciao" for the day and daylight and nightlight exchanged positions - this is when the mosaic reflections truly come to life.

Tower Guinigi - Walking the city wall we eyed one of the few towers of Lucca - it had some trees that had sprouted on top. I later learned this was not an accidental sprouting - the Guinigi Tower has a rooftop garden tucked beneath large oak trees. A walk to the top will treat you to a birds-eye view of Lucca below.

Erbario Toscano - With two 80 pound Labs by our side we couldn't go in many places without one human doggie sitting streetside. One shop that was our exception was the extremely dog friendly Erbario Toscano where the shop attendant graciously invited our entire pack inside the well-appointed store. We enjoyed a long conversation while admiring the shops beautiful products which are truly suspended between art and beauty. Rose. Spicy Vanilla. Royal Grape. Black Pepper (for the men) and more. You'll surely find their fragrances for the heart, home, hair or body a delight! We left with many samples and a rose-scented candle for our new Italian foster Mom Flavia.

Visit Erbario Toscano online - they recently launched in the US and are offering free shipping for orders of $45 or more. What could be greater? Visiting one of their six Italy locations in person!

Even More Lucca:
We loved Lucca so much that when we adopted a Chesapeake Bay Retriever his new name was none other than Lucca. Now everyday we have a sweet, sweet reminder of this great city.

Cheers to you, Lucca!

This picture is from the July 2015 evening when he received his new name. We celebrated by making a batch of my spicy margaritas - you can get our home grown recipe here.

Want More Lucca?

Of course you do! Have a look at more pictures of Lucca here on FTLOI Flickr.

Our Next Stop?

Monterchi, Italy. Catch a visual preview here on Flickr.

for the love of : italy

Chiusi

2015-01-10T07:16:00.000-06:00

Charming Chiusi

Chiusi is a quiet village. It's a great place to escape the hustle of the larger cities and enjoy a leisurely walk to take-in the beautiful architecture of this city.

There is also a well-respected museum here so if you're interested in learning more about the Etruscan way of life, you won't want to miss it!

Suggested Stay:

A day trip.

Getting To Chiusi:

We arrived via car from our villa stay in Sant'Albino. Chiusi is located very close to the A1 Autostrada about a 30 minute drive from beautiful Montepulciano and 45 minutes from Cortona.

Must See & Do:

The Etruscan Museum - Our visit to Chiusi was centered on a visit to this museum and we spent a couple of hours marveling at beautiful urns, pottery, sculptures, jewelry and mosaic works of art.

Want More Chiusi?

Of course you do! Have a look at more pictures of Chiusi here on FTLOI Flickr.

Our Next Stop?

Pienza. Twice is nice indeed when it's another trip to this favorite hilltop town. A return visit gave new views and a deeper understanding of Pienza. The newest post is coming soon and you can see my first here.

for the love of : italy

Lake Como

2014-10-10T10:01:00.000-05:00

Oh, Lake Como

Many have heard of Lake Como's beauty and I'm happy to be one of the lucky ones who have leisured in Lombardy, where Lake Como is located.

Here at Como there is much to see and do in one of my most favored Northern Italian getaways.

Suggested Stay:

A week or a lifetime ... you choose!

Getting To Lake Como:

You'll likely arrive to Lake Como by car or train. We arrived to Varenna via train from Milano Centrale (Milan). The brief 1-hour train ride into the mountains surrounding Lake Como was quite beautiful so try and arrive during daylight hours to best enjoy the views.

While the September weather was warm in our pre-Como stops Venice and Verona, the night we arrived in Varenna was a cold, wet one. Little did we know when the sun rose the next morning there would be snow in the upper mountains surrounding the lake. It was like the Gods had sprinkled powdered sugar on top of the mountains, which later made for some spectacular views heading into the Alps.

You can train from Milan to Varenna then boat to Bellagio, Mennagio and more. If you're planning on doing extensive touring of the area a rental car will help tremendously. Lucky for us our travel friends from Richardson, Texas had a car and while we didn't use it every day, it was nice to have - especially when foraging for food on a Sunday when the area is pretty tightly closed down; we found an Iperal megamarket in Piantedo, which is about 25 minutes from Varenna. We later dubbed Iperal "Wally World" for its vast assortment of food and assorted items (clothes, furniture, housewares, appliances and more) encompassing over 2 acres (that's right - acres) offering pretty much anything your traveler's heart desires.

About The Terrain:

Lake Como is one of the deepest lakes in all of Europe at 1,300 feet. In fact the bottom of Como is more than 650 feet below sea level. When you're visiting Lake Como don't picture sandy beaches that slowly slip into the water, picture majestic mountain tops that dramatically rise from the water. The Swiss Alps don't just live within the border of Switzerland (only 14% of the Alps' total area does), the smaller tops (aka pre-Alps) extend right into Lake Como.

Lake Como isn't just a lake named after Como, Italy, it's a tiny world uniquely its own. The expansive lake is shaped like an upside down "Y" with more villages than one can likely remember peppering its shoreline. This means you will have plenty to see and do!

You can leave your sand bucket and shovel at home and instead gear-up for ferry, watercraft or car ride adventures along the perimeter of this beautiful lake. Love to hike? The area offers you an abundance of options from which to choose for all activity levels of walkers/hikers.

I was easily intoxicated by the picturesque area; it will quickly impress you and make you feel like you're at an all-you-can-eat buffet of beauty. Three years after visiting Como when I close my eyes I still see sun, snow, mountains and the rippling waters of the lake. It's no wonder that celebrities like George Clooney, Madonna, Stalone and Versace have flocked here.

Must See And Do:

Varenna ~ Our home base for a week-long stay at Lake Como, Varenna offers killer views of its nearest lakeside neighbors Bellagio and Mennagio. Our rental was perched above Varenna and featured a large, modern kitchen and a double-wide balcony overlooking the lake. Arrival to the rental on the summit required car, taxi or a bountiful love for vertical hikes. The views from above more than made up for the somewhat tricky method of arrival.

Varenna has a beautiful waterfront walk that was fun to explore and it lead us to a part of Varenna we didn't even know existed! Tucked along one of the shoreline inlets we discovered Il Tornio and it quickly became one of my favorite ceramics shops in all of Italy.

Ceramics stores are to Italy as Country Western stores are to Texas - abundant - and my taste is what I'd consider "selective," so finding a store with a style I love was a great find! I would have purchased more if I could have safely fit my prized mementos into my luggage.

Inside Il Tornio we found unique handmade objects including Christmas ornaments, platters and small dishes (shown above) that are far too beautiful "as is" to put anything on. We left with several items for friends back home and made multiple trips back. Il Tornio's Varenna location is apparently a seasonal one that's set-up in what looked to be an ancient home; the mother ship where the ceramics are made is located about a 30 minute car ride away in Lecco. Hopefully if you visit the Varenna outlet it will be open.

Undoubtedly the most amazing piece of Lake Como shoreline that we adventured were the grounds of Villa Monastero. There's a museum and a conference center (both of which we didn't tour) but instead we were showered with impressive views of the Villa's beautiful location from the expansive botanical gardens which extend almost 1.5 miles (2 kilometers) along the shoreline.

Three words about the Villa: Go. See. It. You will thank me later, I'm certain. Visit Villa Monastero's online site to get your heart beating in advance of your physical arrival. You can also click this little link to visit my Flickr page with a few photos of what you'll likely see here. Don't miss it when at Lake Como!

Our greatest meal in Varenna was at Ristorante Borgovino and my journal tasting notes describe it as "the motherload of all meals." We met two groups of Texans here and polished off a wide assortment of food that left me yearning for my Texas-sized stretchy pants: insalata mista (mixed salad), vino, butter and sage gnocchi, beef filetto, linguini with ham, risotto and cheese, pork scallopini with lemon sauce, giant prawns, creme caramel (you get the drift).

In Varenna you may stumble on a Coop Supermarket, but we never made it inside the store due to wacky, unposted store hours.

Bellagio ~ Considered the most beautiful city in Italy by many, this village is the perfect union of Heaven and Earth. Bellagio's nickname? The pearl of Lake Como.

Strolling the stair-lined streets of Bellagio gave us a good workout so we decided to recover by enjoying some delicious gelato at Trattoria San Giacomo and enjoy the decadent views.

Mennagio ~ Whether you lunch or linger here, make a plan to visit Mennagio after touring Varenna and Bellagio to complete a trifecta view of the Y-shaped lake's central region.

Around the bend from Mennagio in Tremezzo is Villa Carlotta. This impressive villa dates back to 1690 and it's now a museum housing beautiful art all surrounded by a 20-acre botanical garden that's open to the public. Villa Carlotta is located along Lake Como's waterfront in a majestic, enviable location that's perfect for keeping a watchful eye on its across-the-lake friend, Bellagio. Make sure and check out the Villa's website, it will give you great insight on what to expect here since no photography is allowed inside the Villa (bummer).

If you'd like to read a bit more about who the villa was named for, this post has some surprising information.

Cernobbio ~ When Texans with several trips to Italy under their belts agree the best Italian gelato was found here, you better make sure and have a "lick-see-do" in Cernnobio. Two cones for me in a single afternoon! I could have made it three but a wardrobe malfunction would have ensued.

Make sure and visit the gelateria Sotto Zero located in the heart of Cernobbio and enjoy an Ace-flavored cone. Packed with vitamins A, C and E thanks to orange, carrot and lemon, this isn't just good for you it's great for you!

Cernobbio is an easy-to-walk village and we packed a picnic lunch to enjoy after a leisurely tour of Il Giardino della Valle - a quiet community garden that will delight the senses.

St. Moritz ~ A day trip into the Alps from Varenna, Italy to Switzerland was an absolute Top 10 Life Moment for me forever. All aboard the Bernina Express and you'll see what I mean!

For this trip I had done some presearch and learned that this line is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which means it's a pretty honorable experience. It didn't take much convincing my traveling 4-pack to devote a day for a unique adventure into the Alps.

After a short train ride from Lake Como's Varenna station bound for Tirano, Italy you can transfer onto the Bernina Express and head to St. Moritz, Switzerland for a day of gazing at a totally unique culture set among awesome landscape, architecture and a colorful mixture of food, language and fashion. Along the way you'll enjoy amazing views set amidst numerous tunnels and bridges all connected by impressive loop-de-loop (zig zag) switchbacks.

We must have hit the trip on a magical day because in higher elevations above tree line the September snow was simply amazing. Gazing at the white-and-green marbled landscape and sea foam green colored lakes was amazing and we toured wearing short sleeves in the surprisingly mild weather. Waterfalls birthed by the fresh snow's runoff were abound as well as amazing views of dogs herding sheep, mountain trekkers and village views from above. A day to remember.

My Best Advice ~ For an extra $60 USD roundtrip per person we nervously upgraded to 1st class to enjoy the panoramic train only to find 20 minutes later that the experience was worth it ten fold! The panoramic car had Texas-sized windows that made drinking in the views as enjoyable and easy as drinking a fine glass of Brunello (see the pic above). We surprisingly had the entire car to ourselves roundtrip and while we can't expect such fine luck again, we leveraged ours to the fullest; for the entire adventure the four of us simultaneously darted freely to the left and right sides of the train car depending on which side had the best valley view at that moment in time.

Taking crisp photos is a bit tricky from inside the train due to the reflection from all the glass, but nonetheless you'll be left with impressionable and unforgettable vistas. Best of all enjoy the "double feature" as you enjoy your return trip back to the Lake Como area; from palms to glaciers to palms all in the same day! Choo! Choo! Enjoy more pics from our train ride adventure.

Want Even More Photos?

Have a lower altitude look-see of pictures from the beautiful Lake Como region at my Flickr Photostream.

Our Next Stop?

Lake Como concluded our September 2011 Italian adventure and we returned back to our home base in Dallas, Texas with many great memories and almost 3,000 photos. Little did we know our next visit to Italy in 2012 would be for a once-in-a-lifetime stay for 3 months!

You can learn more about our longer-term stay beginning with this post that sets the stage for our 2012-2013 Tuscan adventure ... with our dogs!

Ciao for now!

~ Patrick

for the love of : italy

Verona

2014-10-03T14:56:00.000-05:00

The Walls Of Verona

Enchanted by Verona's lore we actually opted for a day trip in Verona from our stay in Venice. Verona - in Italy's Veneto region - is a northern Italy city tucked alongside the Adige River. The entire city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with about 700,000 residents. While Verona is one of Italy's Top 10 largest cities (I prefer the smaller towns) we found Verona sprinkled with charm everywhere our eyes rested.

Operas. Art. Architecture. Shopping. If you like Florence, chances are you'll find Verona its lovely "Romeo-meets-Juliet" Italian sister-city.

Suggested Stay:

Anything less than a full day in Verona will be like short-changing yourself! Verona is best consumed like a fine Italian wine ... s l o w l y . We left Verona wanting more time there - so if your watch and wallet allow, try for at least 2-3 days to really drink-in the city.

Getting To Verona:

Verona is located between Milan and Venice. In about an hour and a half we arrived in Verona via train from Venice's Santa Lucia train station.

Because we accidentally bolted for the first train station bearing Verona's name (Verona Porta Vescovo) we de-trained too early and wound up walking 30 minutes to the city center. If you're eager to enjoy Verona proper make sure and depart at Verona's much larger "city center" station called Porta Nuova.

You can also arrive to Verona via plane or car.

Must See & Do:

Arena di Verona ~ Verona's impressive arena is located in Piazza Bra and was built in the 1st century. The highly-regarded area is the stage for large-scale opera and musical performances. The arena is large and could hold 30,000 in ancient times, which is really something to sing about. :) You can visit the Verona Arena website for some great information, pictures and details for upcoming performances.

Juliet's House (La Casa di Giulietta) ~ Perhaps one of the most visited alleyways in Italy, this balcony lives in the minds and hearts of people around the world.

Set in Verona and penned in the 1590s William Shakespeare's famous play Romeo and Juliet's memorable balcony love scene is an inspiration for all. Sadly, Juliet's balcony shown above was not built until the 1930s - hundreds of years after the play. Fact or fiction aside, the courtyard underneath the balcony is truly worth seeing for the graffiti works of art and the beautiful statue of Juliet that has been graced of thousands of hands. You'll also find lots of padlocks here bearing the names of love-sworn couples. Nothing quite says "love" like a padlock. :)

The Juliet statue you see at left is actually the original since 1972 but due to countless thousands of hands rubbing on the bronze beauty (there's no doubt where she was rubbed most often from the picture) she has been retired to a museum and a replica has been commissioned. More about that story here.

Piazza delle Erbe ~ You could spend a day here just gazing at passersby, architecture and enjoying the sights and sounds of what used to be the city's Market Square. Here we rested at an outside cafe and enjoyed lunch. In Piazza Erbe you'll see a great statue of Italian poet Berto Barbarani that reminded me of the Stevie Ray Vaughan statue back home in Austin, Texas. Also in the Piazza is a magnificent water fountain built in 1368 topped by a statue of the Madonna Verona that you won't want to miss!

Want More Verona Views?

Have a look at more pictures here on FTLOI Flickr.

Our Next Stop?

A week in Lake Como. We're still pinching ourselves!

~ Patrick

for the love of : italy

Recipe ~ Fusilli with Eggplant Caponata

2014-04-17T11:44:00.000-05:00

In order to get into the Italian state of mind, one has to eat like an Italian!

This recipe came from our very own copy of "Recipes from an Italian Summer." It's a "must have" in the kitchen as it's filled with 380 recipes to delight the tastebuds of lovers of Italian food.

Ingredients:

What To Do:

1. Heat 3 tablespoons of the oil in a large skillet. Add the eggplants and cook them over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes, until they are softened and golden brown. Remove the skillet from the heat and set aside.

2. Heat the remaining oil in a shallow pan. Add the onion and cook them over low heat, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes, or until softened. Add the tomatoes and cook, stirring occasionally, for another 5 minutes. Add the capers, olives, and eggplants and cook for a few minutes, then remove the pan for the heat and add the basil leaves.

3. Cook the pasta in a large pan of salted boiling water for 8-10 minutes, or according to package directions. Cook pasta until tender, but still al dente. Drain and turn pasta into a salad bowl. Drizzle with more olive oil, season with pepper and stir. Add the eggplant caponata and stir again.

Serve immediately. Serves 4.

Mangia! : Mangia!

More of our favorite recipes here.

for the love of : italy

Recipe ~ Bruschetta with Sautéed Mushrooms

2013-10-11T21:52:00.000-05:00

In order to get into the Italian state of mind, one has to eat like an Italian!

Be the life of the party when you serve the life of the party ... this bruschetta and mushroom recipe celebrates the delicious simplicity that is the tasty best of Italy.

Ingredients:

What To Do:

0. Set your oven to broil. Or set your wood-burning fireplace to medium-high heat. :)

1. Place slices of your favorite bread on a foil-lined pan or cookie sheet and toast them in the oven for a few minutes (don't overcook, per favore). Remove and set the toasted bread aside.

2. In a large pan over medium-high heat 3-4 tablespoons of the the olive oil. Add the garlic and sauté for a few minutes.

3. Add the mushrooms, salt and pepper and an additional splash of olive oil. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer for 10-12 minutes, stirring frequently. Taste your mushroom mixture and add more salt and pepper, if you like.

4. Add the parsley and thyme and cook for up to 5 minutes.

5. Place a few spoonfuls of the mushroom mixture on top of each toasted bread slice. Serve "as is" or return the bruschetta to the oven for 1-2 minutes to warm.

Serve and take a bow!

Foodie Tips ~

♥ You can use a single mushroom variety or mix varieties together to create your own unique blend.

♥ Want A Double "Standing O"?: Add some finely grated parmigiano reggiano cheese on top of your bruschetta before returning to the oven for an extra-tasty texture.

Mangia! : Mangia!

More of our favorite recipes here.

for the love of : italy

Recipe ~ Orange Fennel Salad Recipe

2013-10-01T16:22:00.000-05:00

In order to get into the Italian state of mind, one has to eat like an Italian!

Wrapped in smoked salmon, this simple recipe was shared with us by our Italian host "Laura" during our recent trip to Tuscany. I'm a fan of anything FRESH ... probably why this is one of my new favorites. Best of all there's no cooking involved!

Ingredients:

What To Do:

1. First peel the orange and trim off the ends. Then cut the orange along the membrane on both sides of each segment. Free the segments and let them fall into a bowl or plate. Discard the orange remnants.

2. Place some of the fennel and an orange wedge on top of a salmon slice and wrap.

3. Arrange on a serving plate and drizzle with extra virgin olive oil and a sprinkle of salt and pepper.

Serve at room temperature and enjoy!

Mangia! : Mangia!

More of our favorite recipes here.

for the love of : italy

Recipe ~ Lemon Spaghetti

2013-07-12T20:30:00.000-05:00

In order to get into the Italian state of mind, one has to eat like an Italian!

This dish was recommended to us by our Facebook follower, Ezio. We have to admit that we had never eaten lemon spaghetti before but thanks to Ezio we enjoyed it twice in the same week!

This tangy dish features simple ingredients and it's really easy to prepare. We included a tip below to add grilled chicken to this dish in case you want a little protein. Either way, this dish is tops!

~ ~ ~ LEMON SPAGHETTI ~ ~ ~

Ingredients:

The Pasta:
Splash | Olive Oil (Use The Good Stuff)
Pinch or 2 | Salt
1 Pound | Spaghetti

The Sauce:
2/3 Cup | Olive Oil
1 Cup | Parmigiano Reggiano, Grated
1/2 Cup | Fresh Lemon Juice
To Taste | Salt and Freshly Ground Black Pepper

To Serve:
2 Tablespoons | Fresh Lemon Zest
1/3 Cup | Fresh Basil, Torn By Hand

What To Do:

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add a splash of olive oil and a pinch or two of salt. Add the spaghetti.

2. While the spaghetti is cooking al dente, let's prepare the lemon sauce. In a medium-sized bowl, whisk olive oil, cheese and lemon juice until well blended. Set aside.

3. When done, remove the pasta from heat, reserving 1 cup of the pasta water. Drain the pasta into a colander. Return the pasta to the pot.

4. Top the pasta with the lemon sauce, add the reserved pasta water and mix well. Season to taste with salt and pepper, stirring a little bit more.

5. Serve onto plates or into bowls and garnish with lemon zest and basil and a slice of lemon or two.

Yields: 4-6 Servings

Foodie Tips ~

♥ To Add Chicken: Warm a medium-sized skillet and coat with olive oil. Add 2-4 boneless, Italian or seasoned bread crumb-coated chicken breasts, cooking on each side until done. Set breasts aside on paper towels to drain. Cut into 1/2 inch strips lengthwise and place on top of the pasta.

♥ To Garnish: Add 1-2 slices of fresh lemon on top of the pasta.

♥ Love Lemon? So do we! Try these Chicken Piccata and Limoncello recipes.

Mangia! : Mangia!

More of our favorite recipes here.

for the love of : italy

Recipe ~ Eggplant and Mozzarella Rounds

2013-07-04T19:08:00.000-05:00

In order to get into the Italian state of mind, one has to eat like an Italian!

This dish is amazingly tasty. Probably because of the fresh and few ingredients - a sign of a simple pleasure. While great as an appetizer, these rounds hold their own and can be a main course when accompanied with a salad or bruschetta.

~ ~ ~ EGGPLANT and MOZZARELLA ROUNDS ~ ~ ~

Ingredients:

For the Sauce:
9 Ounces | Canned, Chopped Tomatoes
Pinch | Sugar
2 Cloves | Garlic, "Whacked" and Peeled
2 Tablespoons | Olive Oil
To Taste | Salt

For the Base:
3 | Eggplants, cut into 1/2 inch rounds
5 Tablespoons | Olive Oil (use the good stuff)
Up To 1 Pound | Fresh Mozzarella, Sliced
To Taste | Salt

What To Do:

1. Let's make the tomato sauce. Put the tomatoes, sugar and garlic into a pan and season with salt. Cover and cook over a very low heat for 20 minutes. Remove and discard the garlic.

2. Mash the tomatoes with a wooden spoon (or use an immersion blender on the sauce while the sauce is in the pan). Heat sauce for another 15 minutes.

3. While the sauce is cooking place the eggplant slices into a colander. Sprinkle them with salt and let drain for 30 minutes (the salt will draw out some moisture). Rinse the slices then pat dry with paper towels.

4. Remove the pan of tomato sauce from the heat and let cool then stir in the olive oil.

5. Preheat the oven oven to 350°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Heat the olive oil in a skillet. Add the eggplant slices, in batches, and fry turning once for 10 minutes or until they are a light golden brown.

6. Remove the eggplant slices with a slotted spoon and drain them on paper towels. Transfer the eggplant slices to the baking sheet. Place a slice of mozzarella on top of each eggplant slice then top with a teaspoon of tomato sauce.

7. Bake the rounds for 10-15 minutes or until the cheese has melted.

8. Serve warm or cold. The leftover sauce may be frozen and used for future feasting.

Serves 4

Mangia! : Mangia!

Keep On Cookin' : This recipe is compliments of our favorite Italian cookbook "Recipes from an Italian Summer." Learn more about this favorite eating and reading essential here. Treat your kitchen, family and friends by adding this cookbook to your collection. Click. Get. Eat! Your tummy will reward you with a "Standing O!"

More of our favorite recipes here.

for the love of : italy

Recipe ~ No Bake Lemonberry Cups

2013-05-31T14:29:00.000-05:00

Field Of Berries

Watch your guests' eyes grow wide when you present these Lemonberry Cups. They are super-easy to make and feature fresh fruit atop Mascarpone Italian cream cheese which originated in Italy's Lombardy region in the 16th century.

Served chilled, these delicious bite-sized treats make hot Texas days oh, so sweet!

~ ~ ~ NO BAKE LEMONBERRY CUPS ~ ~ ~

Ingredients:

8 ounce container | mascarpone, sweet Italian cream cheese
4 tablespoons | lemon curd
4 tablespoons | powdered sugar
15-25 miniature | mini fillo (phyllo) shells
to garnish | fresh berries
to dust | powdered sugar

What To Do:

1. In a medium-sized bowl blend well the Italian cream cheese, lemon curd and the powdered sugar.

2. On a serving plate arrange the empty fillo shells/cups. Fill the cups with the cream cheese mixture and top each with fresh berries of your choosing.

3. Place the Lemonberry Cups in the refrigerator for a 30-minute chill before serving.

4. Before the tasty unveiling, give the Lemonberry Cups a light dusting of powered sugar. This step is optional but creates a pretty topping for the fruit.

Serve chilled

Foodie Tips:

1. You can find the mini fillo shells in the freezer section of grocery stores like HEB and Kroger. No baking necessary! Jars of lemon curd will most likely be waiting for you on a shelf by the jams and jellies.

2. Berries that work well for this recipe include raspberries, blackberries, blueberries and sliced strawberries.

3. For a quick way to get the mascarpone into the shells you can use or make your own icing tube. To make your own tube simply fill one end of a clean plastic or "Ziploc" bag with the mascarpone mix. Flatten and remove the air space above the icing and cut a small piece of the bag's corner away. Holding the bag in your palm you can squeeze out the desired amount of mascarpone!

4. Hint: Red and blue-colored berries make a patriotic splash for Memorial Day, Fourth of July and Labor Day holidays. Use red and green fruits, like kiwi, for a tricolore taste symbolic of the Italian flag.

5. On my next "go" of this recipe I'll be adding a small shot of homemade limoncello to the mascarpone mixture for that extra "oompf!"

Make your tummy smile. More of our favorite recipes here.

for the love of : italy

Flying Dogs to Italy

2013-03-31T13:40:00.000-05:00

Have Dogs and Traveling to Italy?

It wasn't the easiest thing I ever did, but traveling to Italy with my two Labs turned out to be the perfect way to spend my extended holiday stay.

But getting there *and back* safe and happy required super-fancy footwork by my entire pack of four.

So what's involved if you want to travel with your pet from Texas to Italy?

Best grab a glass of wine and a chair ... this is not a quick question to answer!

Meet Boomer and Harley

Boomer (my chocolate Lab above) and Harley (my yellow) are both seven year old Texas-born Labs. They are literally the best doggies a human could have! So when it came time for my extended stay in Italy, my partner and I knew we ~~wanted~~ needed them with us.

There were many weeks of preparation and many questions to address; Could our dogs fly on a plane at all? Would they have to be quarantined in Italy or the USA? Would they even have fun in Italy? What travel situations were we comfortable with ... or more importantly not comfortable with? There were many, many more questions ... if you'd like my guide of questions you should answer before traveling, email me.

Saddle Up

Once we made the decision for us all to go, we had to obtain the necessary paperwork for entrance to Italy. It seemed easy at first, but the deeper we dug the more confusing things became. Websites were a great start, but they often referred you to other sources which were vague and incomplete. There was no credible, single-source to give us the requirements or answer our questions.

After multiple phone interviews with multiple airlines and our trusted Dallas Vet who researched the medical side of things for a couple of weeks, we determined the final requirements to get our dogs into Italy:

1. No travel during extreme temperatures (sorry, summer and winter). Per the airline, this meant NO dogs traveling in the baggage hold between May 15 and September 15 (their pet embargo) OR any travel days when temps were below 10°F or above 85°F. A big hurdle which meant travel only during the shoulder and off-season months.

2. An internationally-friendly microchip. Not all microchips are internationally friendly, so our Vet had to re-chip the boys with a 15-digit ISO compliant chip.

3. A valid rabies certificate that did not expire before our return into the US.

4. A certificate of good health didactically printed in English and Italian completed and signed by our Vet and validated by the USDA Animal and Plant Health Inspection Services (APHIS) in Austin within 10 days of our departing flight. Whew! FedEx, here we come!

5. A travel dog crate or carrier, which met IATA (International), USDA (Domestic) and carrier (Delta) travel requirements. Since our dogs were large they would be traveling in a large "500 Series" crate which we purchased at our local PetSmart.

Surprisingly, none of our paperwork was checked when traveling into Italy, but that doesn't mean you don't need it!

Flying Doggies

Getting to the airport turned out to be its own adventure. We decided we wanted a direct flight to Italy in order to minimize the opportunity for the dogs to miss a connecting flight as well as to shorten their crate time.

While we checked popular airline carriers - even "pet-only" airlines, we settled on Delta because we were able to: 1) travel on the same flight; 2) receive a consistent list of requirements each time we spoke to different representatives; 3) read and understand the risks from the Redacted Animal Incident Report which disclosed what prior pets experienced while in Delta's care; and 4) avoid potential quarantines by other countries by flying direct. Italy had no quarantine for our situation.

There were no direct flights from Texas to Italy. Since my dogs enjoy four wheeling I rented an SUV, we all piled in and drove two days from Dallas to Delta's hub in Atlanta, Georgia.

An airport skycap helped us for almost two hours while we assembled crates, found a rest area and navigated through the terminal for check in. Very helpful! To our delight, Delta's new international terminal had a dog-friendly pet station complete with fire hydrant and garden hose. We all rested here before the big take-off.

Since they were large dogs, Boomer and Harley could not fly in the main cabin as they couldn't fit under the seat in front of us. The boys would have to travel underneath in the baggage hold. The hold was pressurized and temperature controlled, but we were not together and there were unfamiliar noises below so we were extremely nervous wondering how our dogs were handling the experience.

Hopefully one day the airlines will allow in-cabin travel for well behaved large breed lap dogs ... even for a price.

Once we landed in Rome it took about an hour until our pack was finally reunited. The dogs did great although we were all "groggy" from the 10 hour flight. We piled into our rental car along with three pieces of luggage, two backpacks and two carry-ons. Then we quickly pulled roadside for water and food. Recharged, we were ready for the real adventure to begin – three bountiful months in Italy!

When In Italy
Our pack chose the Tuscany region as our home base.

Boomer and Harley did amazingly well adjusting to life over-seas – even better than us humans. They weren't bothered with things like language barriers, exchange rates or wishful Tex-Mex food sightings.

Most days

they spent traveling with us to small villages for a taste of new sights and sounds ... and we went on long, restful walks together across hill and dale.

Along the way Boomer and Harley met several kittie and doggie friends plus a few pheasant and wild rabbits. Doggie Heaven.

Italian Foodies

We expected that finding their dog food would have been easier than it was, but most of Italy's pet food stores do not offer grain-free foods (there are no PetSmart or Pet Supplies Plus superstores). Since we couldn't transport 180+ pounds of kibble overseas (enough for Boomer and Harley to eat for three months), a friend back in Texas and I both went online to find a solve.

After a four-hour emer-gency food trip to the Il Tucano pet store outside Rome and a few days searching online, we finally found an awesome online company called Miscota which turned out to be the best sniff-find! While Miscota is based in Spain, we were able to have our 30 pound bags of specialty pet food "Taste of the Wild" delivered to our Italy stay in just two days with free shipping for spending over 50 €. Four paws up! I definitely recommend checking Miscota out online before traveling to ensure they have what your pet needs.

Returning Home

While we thought the return trip would be easier, it was actually more difficult. We had to overcome a foreign language, a new Vet and Italian policies. We were extremely advantaged in that our hosts spoke English and Italian and they were animal lovers.

After four weeks of multiple trips to our local Vet and the Azienda USL where the area health Vet was located, we netted out that we needed the following:

1. A Certificate Of Good Health obtained from our local Vet clinic dated within ten days of our departing flight (Delta wanted this).

2. A de-worming and flea and tick treatment via "Nemex" and "Frontline" within 48 hours of visiting the USL for the pet passport (the USL said they required this).

3. A European Pet Passport since we were departing neighboring Paris, France bound for Atlanta (the EU requirement). Assuming you are lucky and are departing Italy direct for the US you should not need the passport, but most likely still #1 and #2 above.

Once again, none of our paperwork was checked when departing Italy or France, but that doesn't mean you don't need it! We did have to present our Rabies Certificate after arriving stateside in Atlanta (the rabies certificate we needed prior to leaving the US).

Our European Dismount

We drove for two days from our base in Castiglion Fiorentino bound for Paris with no issues. We had to find pet friendly hotels that would accept the breed and size of our pets. We also had to be comfortable with the pet surcharges imposed by the hotel. Staying with friends is highly recommended!

There were of course doggy differences between the Paris CDG and Atlanta airports. In Paris there were no skycaps or astro-turfy rest areas to greet us (just curbs). But unlike Atlanta, we were surprisingly able to take the dogs inside the terminal without being crated which was nice.

A few inflight hours later and we were back on US soil without any issues. We reclaimed Boomer and Harley, presented our valid rabies certificate, secured our car rental and were finally "free" again. We drove two days back to Texas bound for some Tex-Mex food ... and the next chapter of life.

Happy Tails

While I'm doubtful we'll make as grand a journey like that again, I'm grateful my four pack had a brief window of opportunity and lept right through it.

Boomer and Harley literally had the best of days funning "Under the Tuscan Sun". More importantly, the experience made our pack realize how much we take for granted and ultimately how much we love and rely upon each other. "The simple things."

Plus, how many Texas Labs can boast that they've been to Italy and back while earning their "truest of true" flying doggie wings?

Have a question about traveling with your dog to Italy?

Email me

Please Note: The information in this post is based on my personal travel experience to Italy in the winter of 2012-2013. Always check with your local Vet and your airline (the experts) for up-to-date changes to policy and procedure regarding pet travel. I’m sharing this information in the hopes it will help you with your pet travel experience. As a prudent pet parent, you assume any and all reward or risk implementing the information! Proceed with caution and have fun.

Recipe ~ Pici alla Norcina

2013-01-31T15:54:00.000-06:00

Pork + Truffles + Cream = Heaven

The ancient town of Norcia, Italy is credited as being the pork capital of Italy. A "norcineria" is a shop that specializes in the curing, butchering and sale of pork which is where this recipe derives its name.

I think hearty and savory Norcina is delightful atop any pasta, although I first experienced it in Tuscany on fresh pici (above) so that's how I discovered it best.

When the tastes of pork, truffle and cream combine, you have this unforgettable dish. Get ready for your "taste bud takeoff!"

~ ~ ~ PICI alla NORCINA ~ ~ ~

Ingredients:
handful (6-8) | porcini, rough chopped
5 | sausages, removed from the casing and crumbled
4 tablespoons | evoo
1/2 cup | broth (mushroom, vegetable or beef)
2 | cage free eggs
to taste | nutmeg, freshly grated
to taste | gray salt
to taste | black pepper, freshly ground

1 cup | parmigiano-reggiano, freshly grated
1 cup | pecorino, freshly grated

1 pound | fresh pici pasta, al dente*
1 cup | heavy cream, the more cream the merrier
1-2 | truffles, freshly grated*
to serve | basil, freshly torn*

to serve | black pepper, freshly ground

What To Do:

1. Rough chop the porcini. If you're using dried porcini, reconstitute them according to their directions, "pat" them dry, chop and set aside.

2. In a large pan over medium heat, brown the crumbled sausage in olive oil.

3. Add the broth and the porcini, stirring frequently. Return heat to low, cover and keep warm.

4. In a medium mixing bowl, beat the eggs. Add the nutmeg, salt and pepper and combine well.

5. Now add the cheeses to the egg mixture and combine well. Keep on warm.

6. Prepare your al dente pasta. Add it to the porcini sauce and combine well.

7. Remove the pasta mixture from heat and fold-in the egg and cheese mixture.

8. Add the cream and combine well.

9. Add the freshly grated truffles and combine again.

10. To serve, transfer to a serving bowl and top with fresh basil, black pepper and more cheese, if desired.

Serve warm

*Tips:

1. If you cannot find fresh truffles in your neck of the woods, try substituting 3-4 tablespoons of truffle paste, available at higher-end stores or online.

2. The ingredients for making pici are few. The true art occurs when shaping the pasta which requires lots of rolling and twisting by hand. Why not make your own art with this homemade pici recipe?

3. Always a sucker for a new pasta form, I tried the norcina sauce on the twisty, tubular "caserecce" pasta, shown here.

4. Remember to tear your basil by hand versus cutting it with a knife. This prevents oxidation of the basil (blackening of the leaves by the cut).

More of our favorite recipes here.

for the love of : italy

carnevale

2013-01-28T15:32:00.000-06:00

Party On

When I heard the word "carnevale," I pictured Venice.

Now, I'm a changed man.

During my extended stay in Italy, I was lucky enough to share the streets of Foiano della Chiana during the oldest carnevale in all of Italy.

Sorry, Venice.

Being from Texas, I was used to big parades; heck, I even marched in them. But the sites and sounds here in Italy pale in mere text and are truly best experienced in person; it's hard to believe the scenes depicted atop these floats are made of papier-mâché... some about 4 stories tall!

Here's a quick video I made to give you a glimpse of the action. I was pinned-up against a building for most of my shots, so sorry I didn't capture more "spot on" footage.

I'll be lucky enough to catch more of the Carnevale di Foiano in years to come! Learn more about "The" party here.

Let The Show Begin (click below)

shopping in the fast lane

2013-01-20T14:11:00.000-06:00

As a follow-up to my recent shopping post "Shop Like An Italian," I discovered an innovative shopping service during my Italian holiday stay that puts the shopper in great control while saving time, managing sticker shock and delivering shopper savings.

The service named "Salvatempo" (loosely meaning "time saver” in English) is credited with literally putting the shopper in the fast lane by shaving about 20% of the shopper’s total time spent shopping when avoiding the typical grocery store process (a.k.a. “the queue” here in Italy).

Salvatempo leverages a handheld mobile device (shown above) that shoppers use to pre-scan grocery items in order to expedite checkout.

While the idea may sound new and innovative to American shoppers, the Italian supermarket “Coop” introduced the handy barcode reader in 1998 outside Florence. In 2012, a free mobile app was introduced for the iPhone, iPad and Android that let’s shoppers use their personal digital device versus the handheld scanner tools available in supermarkets. You can watch this YouTube video to view the app in action.

While Salvatempo makes total sense to me, the service is available in only about 200 supermarkets in all of Italy. How interesting the Salvatempo service is 15 years old and it was introduced by a grocer with origins dating back to 1891.

Here's How Salvatempo Works:

Shoppers voluntarily sign-up for the free service and link it to their cooperative membership account.
Upon entering the store, shoppers insert their Coop membership card to activate the mobile device, or they can simply activate their digital app.
Shoppers scan items and enter quantities as they are placed into their shopping bag or cart. If a shopper decides to put an item back, they can edit their digital shopping list.
When ready to leave the store, the shopper enters specially-marked lanes and hands the mobile device to the checkout clerk who prints a paper receipt and validates payment.

Why It's Smart:

This is a honor-based service that trusts shoppers to properly scan each item; although random accuracy audits may be made; another example forming my belief that there's more shopper trust here in Italy than in the US.
The service helps prevent sticker shock at the register by allowing shoppers to always know how much they will be spending and allows users to remove items from their “digital tab,” if desired.
The mobile service also provides information on coupons and rebates, empowering impromptu shoppers to save on the go, when away from coupons which may be at home.
There’s no need to remove items from the shopper’s cart or shopping bags and pack them again, saving time and energy for the shopper and the checkout clerk.
The service reduces line wait and puts the shopper in control. What's not to like about that?

As the gap shrinks between conventional ways of shopping and mobile advances, like my favorite digital shopping list app, it’s quite possible that the American shopper will soon view the paper grocery list a thing of the past.

I'm OK with that!

Recipe ~ Ribollita

2012-11-27T06:37:00.001-06:00

Ribollita (Bread Soup)

While this recipe requires more work than Pappa al Pomodoro, a bowl of Ribollita will reward you with a warm winter belly. If you like spending hours in the kitchen, this is the recipe for you. If not, pay close note to the time-saving shortcut below!

This recipe hails from Gabriella's Journal; a book celebrating aromas and flavors from the rustic culture of Tuscany.

~ ~ ~ RIBOLLITA ~ ~ ~

Ingredients:

2-3 cups (~300 grams) | dried haricot beans*
10 tablespoons | olive oil (EVOO)
2 medium | onions, chopped
15 tablespoons | tomato puree
4-1/4 cups | tepid water
4 | carrots, chopped

3 | celery sticks, chopped

3 | zucchini (courgettes), chopped
to taste | salt
4 | potatoes, cut into 1/2" pieces
3 bundles | chard, finely chopped
4-1/2 cups (~200 grams) | stale bread
to season | garlic cloves, sliced
to taste | freshly ground black pepper

What To Do:

1. Boil the beans in 2 litres of water for 3 hours. OR, follow my super-Texan-short-cut below*!

2. Heat the oil in a soup pot, add onion and brown, until soft.

3. Add the tomato puree, water, carrot, celery, zucchini and salt. Cook for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.

4. Add the potatoes and chard then cook for about 2 hours. Maybe watch a movie? Stir here and there.

5. Toast the stale bread and rub it with the sliced garlic.

6. In a deep saucepan, form alternate laters of bread, beans and vegetable soup and boil again for another 2 hours. (Sorry, it's not me, it's the recipe!)

7. Serve in terracotta pots adding EVOO atop, at the end!

Serves: 6

*Tips:

1. If you don't have any 2-3 day old stale bread, you can cut fresh bread into bite-sized squares and place into your oven for a few minutes at 225°F until crunchy. Do not use soft bread for this recipe!

2. A word about "haricot beans" ~ We have yet to find these while in Italy. They are known in the USA as the Navy Bean. We substituted corona beans, which are tasty and readily available canned, so we were able to eliminate 3 hours of boiling from this recipe! More bean info here.

More of our favorite recipes here.

for the love of : italy

San Quirico

2012-11-25T06:35:00.000-06:00

High On The Hilltop

Setting foot in San Quirico d'Orcia means that you're in one of the most beautiful parts of Italy.

San Quirico is small in size (less than 3,000 folks live here), but it sports big views of the surrounding Val d'Orcia which has been honored by painters, photographers, and mankind at large since Renaissance times.

Not surprisingly, the entire Orcia Valley was added to the UNESCO World Heritage Site, making it one of the world's most treasured landscapes.

With origins dating back to the Etruscan time, San Quirico was a key town along the ancient Via Francigena, which connected Rome and Canterbury.

Suggested Stay:

A few hours. If you want to enjoy the beauty of this part of Italy, an online search found many area quality rooms and villa rentals. From the S. Quirico area you can quickly travel to the neighboring cities (mentioned below).

Getting To San Quirico:

We arrived via car from our villa stay outside Montepulciano (just 29 km away). San Quirico is 35 km from Siena and is very close to Montalcino and Pienza, both under a 20 minute car drive away.

Although there is no "formal" bike lane, this roadway is a popular route to bike or walk; you'll be riding on the curvy, paved road or walking roadside, so be prepared.

No matter your arrival form, make sure your camera is fully charged and be prepared for frequent roadside stops... even if just to slow the heart by taking in 360° of the countryside's beauty.

Must See & Do:

First, here's a handy map for the city. Entering at the north-western end of San Quirico (see pic above at right), you can take the main walkway named Via Dante Alighieri that will lead you through the heart of the village.

Notable
Sites ~

A few steps inside the old city walls, you'll be looking straight at the Collegiate Romanesque Church of San Quirico. With origins dating back to the 8th century, walk past the lions flanking both sides of the entryway and have a look inside. When you return outside look up and enjoy the tall bell tower; you're likely to see birds flying about - we found them struggling to keep atop of the church dome set high in the Tuscan breeze.

Continuing down the street, you'll encounter the heart of San Quirico with Chiesa di San Francesco (on your left) which contains a significant Madonna by Andrea della Robbia.

With your back to S. Francesco, if you walk toward the gateway opposite the church, you'll be standing at the entrance to Horti Leonini (below) a fine example of an Italian garden which dates to 1561. Admission is free, so enter and enjoy some inner peace.

Returning back to S. Francesco and taking a right along the main passage you'll notice Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta, a very charming Romanesque church.

Festa dell'Olio ~

If you're in Tuscany in December you won't want to miss the Olive Oil Festival that's held here in San Quirico.

We were thrilled we made it to the party and it was one of the best events we saw during our 3-month stay - it was local, intimate and unique.

During the celebration the village is literally bursting with people of all ages who share in the love of olive oil. Oil and wine tastings abound! It was here I had my first olive oil gelato which even in the cold of December was a special treat.

I think we were the only Americans visiting this night but the warmth of the Italian people welcomed us as if we were their own. Such is the Italian way!

Make the festa if you can - it's an annual event and one that should not be missed.

Bagno Vignoni ~

Just a stone's throw from San Quirico are these amazing hot springs that have been gushing waters at around 120°F for the past 2,000 years. Despite wars upon the city as well as the test of time itself, Bagno Vignoni remains a well-preserved treasure tucked in the Tuscan countryside.

Learn more about making your visit to Bagno Vignoni online. Make sure and bring your swim suit!

Want More San Quirico?

Have a look at more pictures of San Quirico
here on FTLOI Flickr.

Our Next Stop?

Charming Chiusi. Also home to one of the most historically significant museums I've set foot within! Get there in a click.

italian agriturismo

2012-11-24T07:06:00.001-06:00

farm fresh

If you enjoy an authentic, casual and soulful way of travel, Italian Agritourism may be the welcomed adventure for you.

Agriturismo, literally "staying on a farm," may initially frighten the unfamiliar, but have a second look; you won't be bailing hay or roping Chianina cattle (these giants can weigh 2,000+ pounds). You're more likely to be sipping wine grown from the very vineyard where you stay, cooking in your own kitchen with a fresh pressed olive oil where the mother trees are right outside your window or you may be swimming in a secluded pool, just for the use of a handful of guests. The farm fresh eggs pictured below? They were brought to me by my Tuscan hostess during my stay.

Best of all, living local means you can interact with the locals. That means inquiring minds can receive great insider tips on the best of the best for local eateries, markets and sights. If you're like me, you can practice your budding Italian skills with your local host/ess as most Italians are eager to help connect shared communication more so than we try in America.

Your agriturismo experience will take place in many a form; a villa, estate, farmhouse or apartment; each as unique as your thumbprint.

Think Thrice

Living on the farm will bring you many special experiences. While you won't be "roughing it" per se, here are 3 key things to inquire into before booking your farm, sweet, farm:

1. Location ~ Obviously, farm living means it's unlikely you'll be in the city center. So make sure you consider how you will travel outside of the farm proper.

Rental cars are often the most convenient way of travel (not necessarily the most cost-efficient means of travel). You can learn more about renting or leasing a car in Italy in my upcoming post. In addition, you may find that you'll be within walking distance of a bus stop which will likely connect you to neighboring cities and regional train stops.

2. Keeping It Clean ~ You can take your clothes to local cleaners or self-service lavanderias, found in many communities. But if you prefer to wash things yourself at your place of stay or affordability is important to you, inquire into the availability of washers and dryers.

Clothes dryers are not the norm in Italy. In many cases, you'll have to dry your clothes outside on the clothes line or inside or patio-side on a folding clothes rack. Weather permitting, line-drying clothes may take 2 or more days, so you may need to be more regimented as to when you wash clothes... as well as how many clothes you pack (bringing fewer clothes means you'll be washing more often).

Automatic dishwashers? Only if you're very lucky (you have the "buona fortuna")! You'll often be washing and drying dishes the old-fashioned way; with your hands! I find that hand-washing dishes is a therapeutic release, so in the "paper-scissor-rocks" cleaning essentials game of clothes dryer vs. dishwasher, I pick the clothes dryer, hands down.

3. Staying Connected ~ While "getting away from it all" is important to some, staying connected for others is like air itself.

Having a cellular, digital or WIFI connection will be your lifeline to "Skype-ing" with friends and family, checking email and watching online video programming. Doing without these things is easier the shorter your stay, but during my 12-week stay, I realized my less-than-dial-up connection meant I'd have to multitask while I upload content... and that Skype-ing was out of the question. Always ask your host/ess if they are connected, if the TV, cell phone or computer is important to you. You can also have them do a WIFI speed test, and report the results back to you.

For me, the joys of staying in a villa rental far exceed any detriment. You'll find that your soul returns fresh and ready for another go of it. If you've been a part of the agriturismo inner circle, why not share your story and a picture on the For The Love Of Italy Facebook page.

Off for a hike with the Dogs!

Recipe ~ Pappa al Pomodoro

2012-11-21T05:23:00.002-06:00

Tomato Bread Soup

"Give me your tired bread, your hungry masses yearning to eat, and I will make them this delicious soup!"

Found during my holiday travel to Tuscany, this recipe makes great use of a household staple living beyond its freshest of days; stale bread. The end result? A delicious dish that will warm the belly.

This recipe was inspired by Gabriella's Journal; a book celebrating aromas and flavors from the rustic culture of Tuscany.

~ ~ ~ PAPPA AL POMODORO ~ ~ ~

Ingredients:

6 tablespoons | olive oil
2-3 | garlic cloves, cut into small pieces
1 | celery stick, chopped into small pieces
3-4 (1¾ cups) | fresh tomatoes, chopped (tomatoes may also be peeled)
6-8 | basil leaves, torn by hand into small pieces
to taste | salt
to taste | pepper
2¼ cups | boiling water
1½-2 cups | stale bread, cut into bite-sized squares
to garnish | a fresh basil leaf for each serving
to garnish | parmigiano-reggiano cheese, shredded

What To Do:

1. In a saucepan over medium heat, add the oil, the garlic cloves and the chopped celery. Stir until the garlic is soft and add the chopped tomatoes, the basil leaves, salt and pepper. Cook over a low heat for 15 minutes.

2. Pour in the boiling water and fold-in the stale bread. Boil, covered, for about 40 minutes over a very low heat, gently stirring occasionally.

3. Serve soup hot in a bowl and top with a basil leaf and some shredded parmigiano-reggiano cheese.

Yields: 3-4 Servings

Tip:

If you don't have any 2-3 day old stale bread, you can cut fresh bread into bite-sized squares and place into your oven for a few minutes at 225°F until crunchy. Do not use soft bread for this recipe!

More of our favorite recipes here.

for the love of : italy

shop like an italian

2012-11-18T07:35:00.003-06:00

The "Thrilla" The Villa

In my early days of travel to Italy, I stayed in hotels; an obvious choice.

During my second trip I stumbled upon a charming B&B in Cinque Terre and fell in love with the custom, charming service and delightful quiet I received.

On my third trip, I rented my first villa and was sucker punched; I was head-over-heels in villa love.

A villa rental can take many forms; from the grandiose to the simple. I've stayed in everything from a watch tower born on the Amalfi Coast in the 1500s to a 250-acre "working" Tuscan farm producing olive oil and wine. I've learned that staying in a villa can provide an authentic view of Italian life at a weekly rental rate cheaper than hotels. Best of all, most villa rentals include kitchens (cucinas) which will gift you the opportunity to explore your inner Italian foodie.

Mangia Mangia ♥ Let's Eat

Acquiring food essentials in Italy can be a little tricky for those expecting a "shopper's life" to be the same as the one back home; you'll have to navigate differences in language and currency, but you'll be rewarded with unique foods and a hands-on experience of Italian packaging which I've often found thoughtful and artful.

During my trip to my local "Pam" Supermarket this week, I was reminded of some key differences that may prove helpful to the first time American shopper exploring the Italian supermarket:

Rent-a-Cart ~ Before you even get to business, you may have to pay for the use of a shopping cart (typically a €1 coin). Relax, you can get your money back when you return the cart to it's home, sweet, home. The borrower's fee helps keep the parking lot tidy!

Forget Me Nots ~ Don't expect to find the same items on Italian shelves as you expect back home. Ice ("ghiaccio"), Ziploc bags and press-and-seal wrap can be tricky to find, if not impossible. I now bring a handful of Ziploc baggies to Italy so I can seal and store in between my at "home" ice-making sessions.

Size Surprise ~ Italians aren't super-sizers, like Americans. So expect smaller sizes and smaller packages, like 6- or 10-packs of eggs or 4-packs of Coca-Cola Light (Diet Coke). You may even find a 3-pack of Peroni beer (€1,46) costs disproportionately less than it's beefier brother, the 6-pack (€4,09).

Ying vs. Yang ~ Milk ("il Latte") and eggs ("uova") are sold unrefrigerated on the shelf while mushrooms are often refrigerated. Cough drops? You'll find them on the candy aisle.

Band Of Brothers ~ Bottled waters are often shrink wrapped in clusters yet they are priced indi-vidually, so folks often break them apart and buy them in chosen quantities. Make sure you take note on whether you're buying fizzy ("frizzante") water or plain ("naturale").

Need Drugs? Will Travel! ~ If you're looking for prescription or even over-the-counter drugs like aspirin, get ready to travel. Health and wellness items are typically housed outside of the typical supermarket in a"farmacia" (pharmacy). The farmacia is a completely separate store where employees still wear white coats and they sell only drug-related goods, so no ice cream, school supplies or photo departments here!

Circle Of Friends ~ The meat counter is a communal experience where groups form in a flash and hearty conversation in brewed (pictured above).

The Clean Team ~ The Italians are a clean crowd. Don't be surprised if you find free plastic gloves in the produce area for handling your fruits and veggies. My heros!

The Dismount ~ When you're ready to check out and pay for your goodies, don't just push your cart to the register; clerks are often found working from a chair at checkout and it's customary for you to remove everything from your cart and place it on the conveyor belt. You'll bag your own groceries as there are no store baggers to assist.

Shopping in Italy isn't as daunting as it may sound. Once you make a go of it, you'll find you're a Italiano shopping pro and you'll be sharing savvy shopper tips with your friends, like I am with you right now!

Shop On

Catch updates from my amazing journey by clicking on the link "A Tuscan Holiday" above, at right, or at the FTLOI Facebook page.

Freedom

2012-10-30T12:29:00.000-05:00

What would it take for you to lunge at making your dream on Earth a reality?

Some people spend all their lives thinking about that question. Others seem to have no problem living life full and hard. Some never find success. And some redefine "success" by making it uniquely their own.

Me? I fall somewhere in between. But in the first half of 2012 I lost two dear friends who were in their early 30s - one to a horrific and senseless shooting and the other who went to bed and never woke up. I realized that indeed life is short and that my daily grind had exhausted me. Something needed to change.

My next chapter in life wasn't coming to me, I was going to it; Italy, to be precise. And I jumped for a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.

Stop dreaming. Start living.

The decision to jump didn't happen fast, but it did happen.

After carefully pondering and researching the idea of life abroad for years - since my first trip to Italy in 2006 - the timing was ripe. After the tragic loss of my friends I knew it was time to set my plan into action.

Over a period of four months I sold my house and moved into a short-term apartment. I researched how to fly my family (a dude and two Labs) to Italy; animal travel seemed easy, but proved not quite so. I left my 20-year over-productive career in advertising and paused operations of a four-year old company I started from the ground up.

With just 14 days before jetting to Italy for three months, I'll be spending the holidays in Tuscany. 30 days outside Montepulciano. 30 days outside Cortona. And 30 days who knows where.

The full adventure will be parked here, or you can follow tidbits at Facebook.

Cheers to the next 90 days!

Catch the updates by clicking on the link "A Tuscan Holiday" above at right.

~ Patrick

for the love of : italy

Burano and Mazzorbo

2012-10-27T16:03:00.000-05:00

Beautiful Burano

Violet Blue. Atomic Tangerine. Raw Sienna. Purple Pizzazz.

Since 1903, Crayola has been pushing the outer limits of color and imagination. As a kid, I spent many days dreaming, creating and marveling my Crayola crayon works of art. Little did I know that years later I would set foot in a small Italian island town that Binney & Smith Co., the makers of Crayola, surely must have inspired (and vice versa).

Burano's charming community loves color; the folks here need not apologize for their choice of color, only for the lack of boldly living the variety of color itself.

Suggested Stay:

A day trip.

We showed up late in the afternoon and missed the full saturation of Burano's kaleido-scope of color basking in the bright sunlight so make sure you arrive no later than high noon.

Getting To Burano:

Lagoon hopping means you'll be arriving via water craft. We found two water bus lines from from Venice to Burano. Allow 45 minutes-to-an hour for a one-way trip. We were eager to jump water bus for land and later discovered we arrived at the Island of Mazzorbo. Turns out that was a great thing (read more below). Consult a waterbus map to ensure you arrive where desired!

Must See & Do:

Museo del Merletto ~ (Piazza Galuppi, 187)

The Lace Museum is housed on two floors and contains samples of lace from their origins in the 11th century through the 20th century plus videos and other ancient articles. Let's have a look-see:

Visit the official Lace Museum's website where you can learn more about lace making, search an online lace-related database and purchase museum tickets. Get a great view into the art of lace making for just 5,00 Euros per ticket (discounted tickets are available).

Chiesa di San Martino ~ (Piazza Galuppi)

The stately San Martino bell tower will guide you to greater Burano from the outer island waters. The tower had an eery tilt to it. I wondered if it would still be standing by the time we reached its shadow.

The origins of San Martino date back to around 1000 and was built in its current form in the 16th century and officially consecrated October 29, 1645. There is a rich history to the things you will find inside. Read more about them here.

Trattoria da Romano ~ (Via Galuppi, 221, telefono 041 73 00 30)

This trattoria has been managed by the Barbaro family since it was found in the early 20th century.

Romano's is well known for their typical lagoon cuisine like risottos and their fresh fish dishes. I was surprised at the long list of famous painters, sculptors, musicians and celebrities who have eaten here including Charlie Chaplin, Ryan O'Neal and Farrah Fawcett.

Mazzorbo and The Venissa Estate ~

"Mazzorbo," Burano's conjoined

island twin, casually boasts a single walking bridge connecting both islands. On Mazzorbo, make sure and check out the beautiful Venissa Estate formerly known as Scarpa-Volo. The estate includes a charming restaurant run by Paola Budel, an ostello with 6 rooms for rent, a vegetable garden - all situated in a great location to consume local views of the islands.

The grounds are incredibly peaceful. You'll easily spot Santa Caterina, an old tower that watches over precious grapes from within a walled vineyard, serving as the oldest bell in the lagoon (circa 1318). The Venissa grapes are unique; the Venetian Dorona or "Golden Grape" has survived formerly presumed extinction thanks to the work of the folks at Scarpa-Volo. It just began to be sold in limited quantities in April 2012.

Torcello ~

A stone's throw from Burano and you'll be in Torcello. While the setting sun sadly made us return to our Venice rental, this island was once more powerful than Venice itself. On my list for my return is to walk across the Ponte del Diavolo (the Devil's Bridge) and eating at Ristorante Villa 600, which dates back to 1600. With amazing architecture including the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta (639), why not make a stop here while you're in the area?

Want More Burano?

Have a peek at some more pictures of my stop in Burano here on Flickr.

Our Next Stop?

Verona. This place was oozing with so much charm my camera batteries died. My newest post is in the oven... and coming out soon!

Murano

2012-10-21T14:31:00.000-05:00

A Little Bit Of Murano Magic

It wasn't snowing in Murano the day we visited; but had it been, I would have laid down and made a snow angel. Freedom!

Eager to leave the busy tourist beehive in Venice, the only thing that separated me from the spatial solace I yearned for was the San Michele island cemetery outside Venice and the short vaporetti ride around it to the Island of Murano.

Suggested Stay:

A day trip.

Getting To Murano:

Murano is an island, so you'll be arriving via water craft, folks. We jumped a water bus from Venice bound for Murano or you can hire a private water taxi if the mood suggests. Allow about an hour, each way, for the floating adventure.

Must See & Do:

Museo del Vetro di Murano ~ (Fondamenta Giustinian 8, 30121, Murano)

Murano is famed for its beautiful glass so there's no better way to get started than with a history lesson spending time marveling in Murano's Glass Museum. The museum was founded in 1861 and is housed in a palace dating back over 200 years prior. While the origin of Venetian glassmaking is not precise, we can agree it's a really, really ancient art form.

The museum houses Roman works dating from the 1st century and boasts the largest historical collection of Murano glass collection in the world. Let's have a look:

Ready for more? Click here for a online peek or to purchase tickets for your visit.

Murano's Glass Factories ~

There's a rich long-standing history to glass-blowing in these parts so wet your appetite by perusing the various factories in Murano.

There are well over 20 factories, which means you'll have more than enough to set your eyes on. Chandeliers, figurines, stemware, vases mirrors and more. Here's a list of many of the local glass factories and furnaces as well as historical information, glass blowing terms, glass blowing demonstrations and water bus details.

Santa Maria e San Donato Cathedral ~

If Byzantine archi-tecture, bell towers and dragon bones are your thing, you just struck gold.

Originally built in the 7th century, the cathedral was to have been build in honor of the Virgin Mary. Inside you'll find a colorful mosaic floor and four Texas-sized bones hanging above the altar; these bones are said to have belonged to a former dragon, slain by San Donato himself. Definitely worth a look-see.

Want More Murano?

Have a peek at some more pictures of my stop in Murano here on Flickr.

Our Next Stop?

The Island of Burano. Double take. Burano (with a "B") is Murano's lesser-known lagoon friend, featuring lace making, brightly-colored houses and seaside charm. Coming this week.

Cucina ~ Reading Essentials

2012-10-09T12:19:00.000-05:00

Keep On Cookin'

In order to get into the Italian state of mind, one has to eat like an Italian! Learn more about our favorite eating and reading essentials that no cucina should be without. Surprise your kitchen, family and friends by adding these to your collection.

Your tummy will award you with a "Standing O!"

1. Mangia! Mangia!
(totally, we know)! This is a great kid's book that tells a whimsical story about food. It's also great for newbies to the Italian language. Makes a great gift for your fellow Italian foodie and costs under $10 USD.

More info here

2. Recipes from
an Italian Summer
This is a required reading and feeding essential for you Italian lovers out there. This hardbound book contains recipes in over 400 pages distilled from "The Silver Spoon," Italy's all-time most popular cookbook (see below). Inside, you'll find delicious, easy-to-make seasonal recipes for picnics, barbecues, light lunches and suppers and overall summer entertaining. Think salads, ice creams and drinks.

We salivated for more fotografie, but worth its weight in pasta. Need we say more?

More info here

3. Cooking With Italian Grandmothers
G-mom, Nonna, Granny, Mee-Maw. Whatever her name, our motherly elders help teach and connect us to the past through their time-honored tradition and love of great food.

If I died and came back as the author of a cookbook (and also as a woman), I'd choose to be Jessica Theroux. Jessica was lucky enough to travel Italy for a year visiting 12 totally Italian grandmothers.

The result? This awesome cookbook that contains 80+ authentic Italian recipes, tips and amazing photos ~ all celebrating, through food, the tradition, art and variety of Italian culture.

Who doesn't love Nonna's memorable cooking? I know I do! ~ I love and miss you, "Nany!"

More info here

4. The Homesick Texan Cookbook
Since many of our readers are Texans ~ some who are expats living in Italy ~ we had to include this favored Texas foodie "bible" given to me by my friend Meredith mere days before I left for an extended stay in Italy; she knew I'd miss the taste of Texas.

Packed with over 125 recipes and a generous helping of color photographs, you're sure to find some Texas-inspired foods to lasso your tastebuds with love. From sunup with cheese grits to sundown with dewberry cobbler (which holds a special Texas place in my tummy), this is a new favorite staple in our kitchen saddled-up next door to "Recipes From An Italian Summer" (above).

The only problem we had with this prized kitchen sidekick was whether to make the San Antonio-style or the Houston-style tortilla recipe first. Either way, we win! ♥ ♥ ♥

5. The Silver Spoon
Self respecting Texans surely identify with the saying "The bigger the hair, the closer to God."

In similar fashion if cookbooks are judged by size then The Silver Spoon will surely land your tastebuds at the front of the line at The Pearly Gates. With more than 2,000 recipes, this cookbook has been an Italian bestseller for over 60 years. If you cook one new recipe each day, it will take you more than 5 years to work your way through this tasty inspiration!

I literally just heard my stomach and tastebuds high-five each other. I'm good with that. :)

for the love of : italy