Driving Lessons

Test Your Car Battery

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Thu, 28 Apr 2016 17:13:00 +0000

Test Your Car Battery

Does your vehicle power contain enough vitality to start out your engine unit during winter. The only path to learn if your electric battery is fully incurred or not is to gauge the battery's express of demand with a voltmeter. An analog can be utilized by you or digital voltmeter, but an electronic meter is better to read and can offer you a more exact reading. Here How To Test Your Car Battery

First, make sure the ignition key is OFF, and all the vehicle's lights are OFF.

To check your battery's state of charge, connect the RED or POSITIVE voltmeter test lead to your battery POSITIVE terminal. The positive terminal will be marked with a PLUS symbol (+), and the battery cable that is connected to the positive terminal is often color coded RED.

Connect the BLACK or NEGATIVE voltmeter test lead to your battery NEGATIVE terminal. The negative terminal will be marked with a minus symbol (-), and the battery cable that is connected to the negative terminal is often color coded BLACK.

Note the reading on your voltmeter and refer to the chart below:

Battery Voltage and State of Charge:

12.66v . . . . . . . . . . 100%

12.45v . . . . . . . . . . 75%

12.24v . . . . . . . . . . 50%

12.06v . . . . . . . . . . 25%

11.89v . . . . . . . . . . 0%

?Is Your Battery Low

If your battery voltage is less than 12.45 volts (75 percent charged), it is low and should be recharged. This can be done by connecting a portable battery charger to your battery, or by driving your car for 15 to 20 minutes at 40 mph or faster.

Automotive lead-acid batteries should be maintained at a 75 percent charge level or higher for best performance and life. If the battery is allowed to run down and is not brought back up to 75 percent or higher charge within a few days, the battery may be permanently damaged. Sulfation can prevent the cell plates inside the battery from accepting a full charge. Over time, this will lead to diminished battery performance and life

Why You Need a Good Battery for Reliable Cold Weather Starting

A good battery is essential for reliable starting, especially during cold weather because cold weather increases the cranking load on the battery. Oil gets thicker at low temperatures so it takes more amps to crank a cold engine when you try to start it. At 0 degrees**F**, the number of cranking amps it takes to start a cold engine may increase as much as 2X. At minus 15 degrees below zero F. , it can take 3X or more amps to crank the engine depending on the viscosity of the oil in the crankcase. The thicker the oil, the harder is it to crank the engine.

Warning: Do NOT attempt to recharge your battery if it has run down and the liquid inside is frozen. This may cause the battery to explode! Remove the battery and take it inside so it can thaw before recharging or testing it.

?Is Your Battery Good or Bad

A GOOD battery is one that will accept and hold a charge, and is capable of producing close to its rated amperage output. A BAD battery is one that will NOT accept or hold a charge, or cannot produce adequate cranking amps. A GOOD battery can be recharged and returned to service but a BAD battery needs to be replaced.

Most car batteries only last about 4 to 5 years, so if your battery is 4 or more years older and is not holding a charge (keeps running down), or it does not seem to crank your engine a normal speed, you probably need a new battery.

A low or dead battery does not mean your battery has failed, or that it needs to be replaced. A good battery can run down for any number of reasons: somebody left the lights on, you haven't been driving your vehicle enough to keep the battery fully charged, your vehicle has been sitting for a long period of time without being started, there is a problem with the charging system or alternator, or an electrical problem is draining power from the battery when your car is off.

Battery Testing

The only way to know if your battery is GOOD or BAD is to test it. Many auto parts stores will test your battery for free. If your vehicle is drivable or you can get it going with a jump start, drive to a nearby auto parts store that offers free testing and have them test your battery and charging system. If you can't get your car started, remove the battery and get a friend to give you a ride to the auto parts store so you can have the battery tested. Many repair shops will also test your battery and charging system, but they usually charge a fee for this service

CAUTION: Conventional wet cell car batteries are filled with a mixture of water and sulfuric acid. Wear gloves and handle the battery with care so no liquid spills on your skin or clothing. Battery acid can cause severe burns. If a spill does occur, wash with plenty of water and neutralize the acid by applying baking soda.

There are essentially two ways to test a battery. The "old fashioned way" is to use a Load Tester. For accurate results with a load tester, the battery must first be recharged before it is tested. The tester applies a calibrated load to the battery (typically half the battery cold cranking amp [CCA] capacity or three times its amp/hour rating). While the load is applied, the tester monitors battery voltage. If the battery voltage drops below 9.6 volts during the test, the battery is BAD and needs to be replaced. If the voltage remains about 9.6 volts, the battery is GOOD and can be returned to service.

electronic battery conductance tester The other (and must faster) method for testing your battery is to use an electronic "conductance" . A conductance tester sends a alternating frequency signal through the battery to determine the condition of the cell plates inside the battery. As a battery ages, its internal conductance declines. Shorts, opens and other cell defects also reduce conductance, so measuring conductance gives an accurate indication of battery condition. The best feature of this type of test is that the battery does NOT have to be recharged prior to testing. Most conductance testers will give an accurate reading even if the battery is almost dead.

Some electronic battery testers can also analyze the battery's CCA capacity, which can be used to estimate the battery's remaining service life. Some testers can also measure the amps drawn by the starter while cranking the engine, and analyze charging system output under load once the engine is running. Some testers even provide a built-in voltmeter for checking connections.

Whether your battery tests GOOD or BAD, make sure the battery is fully recharged before returning it to service. The alternator is designed to maintain a battery charge, not to recharge a dead battery. Overloading the charging system with a dead battery can tax it to the point of where it may damage the alternator.

Replacement Car Batteries

A replacement battery must have the same post configuration as the original (top post or side post), and fit the battery tray. Your first order of business, therefore, is to figure out the correct "group size" for the vehicle.

Next, you have to figure out how many CCAs the vehicle needs for reliable cold weather starting. The replacement battery should have the same or higher CCA rating as the original battery. Bigger is usually better, but keep in mind that some batteries sacrifice "reserve capacity" to achieve higher CCA numbers.

Another number that is important is the months of prorated warranty coverage provided by the battery manufacturer. As a rule, the higher the warranty months on the battery, the higher the battery CCA rating and the better the battery. So consider upgrading from a basic 36-month replacement battery to a premium 72-month battery.

There are also differences in battery technology and design. Though all automotive batteries today are still based on lead-acid chemistry, redesigned grids, thinner plates and new connectors allow more amps to be packaged into smaller cases. Some new batteries use a "spiral wound" cell configuration instead of flat plates to achieve a higher packaging density, more power output and increased durability.

Some batteries also use a "gel" electrolyte or "recombination" technology that replaces the liquid acid. Some have "absorbent glass mat" (AGM) separators between the plates that hold the acid much like a paper towel soaks up water, making the battery "spill-proof" even if the case is punctured. AGM technology also makes batteries more resistant to vibration damage and helps extend battery service life.

Battery Installation

When installing a new battery, clean the posts and inspect the battery cables. Also, check the negative battery cable ground connection and the integrity of any engine ground straps. Loose or corroded connections can cause starting and charging problems

Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) This is the most common battery capacity rating. The rating is the number of amps the battery can deliver for 30 seconds at 0 degrees F. while maintaining post voltage of 7.2 Volts. For reliable cold weather starting, most vehicles require 400 to 600 cold cranking amps. Larger displacement engines require more cranking amps. Some batteries are rated up to 1000 CCA, but may sacrifice reserve capacity to achieve high short term outputs.

Cranking Amps (CA) This is a less meaningful rating. It is the same as CCA except it is measured at 32 degrees F. A battery's CA rating can be converted to CCA by dividing the number by 1.28 (Example: a CA rating of 500 amps becomes 390 CCA).

Reserve Capacity (RC) Think of this as the battery's staying power. This is the number of minutes the battery will deliver 25 amps and still maintain a post voltage of 10.5 Volts. The higher the reserve capacity rating, the longer the battery will last if the charging system fails.

* Amp Hour Rating (A/H) This rating is not used much any more. It measures low current draw for 20 hours while maintaining a minimum post voltage of 10.5 Volts at 70 degrees F. (Example: a drain of 3 amps for 20 hours = 60 A/H rating).

How to Drive Safely in the Rain

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Thu, 28 Apr 2016 15:53:00 +0000

How to Drive Safely in the Rain

Driving in the rain can be a scary thing, and in the night, it is even worse. It is difficult to see out of the window, and the other car's lights seems to make it worse.

TIPS

Keep both hands on the steering wheel at all times! Keep all distractions, such as cell phones or even the radio, off and away from you. While focus to your front do Take a Look in Back View Mirror as well Right Hand side & Left Hand side so that you get an 360 degree over view what is happening around any mud slide or falling tree, electric pole, hanging electrical wires , or in coming hazard etc

Turn on your headlights .This will make it easier for you to see what is in front of you; thus, preventing any accidents.

Keep a minimum of a good five car length from the car in front of you. You never know what other drivers are going to do or what could happen to you! If that feels too close or too far a rule of thumb is 1 second of following distance per 10 mph (16 km/h)

Drive at or below the speed limit to the extent that you are comfortable with, and can see far enough in front of you to appropriately make driving decisions.

Be aware that the maximum speed at which you can drive is DIRECTLY related to your tires. Be sure to know what their condition is in. Radial tires have better traction than the old bias ply polyester tires, but even they lose their ability to grip wet pavement and channel water out as the tread wears out.

Be aware of hydroplaning. This is where your vehicle travels on top of the water and has NO or very little contact with the ground. Your traction is reduced significantly. To safely get out of a hydroplaning situation let off the gas and steer straight or slightly in the direction you must go. Do not make sudden motions and remain calm.

Avoid flooded roads. Never drive through standing or flowing water in a road way unless you have no choice or you are able to follow someone else to judge the depth of the water. Flooding the engine of your car can cause the engine to stall, and deep water can actually float your car and take it off the roadway.

Turn on the defroster if the windshield begins to fog. In hot, muggy weather, air conditioned air (which cannot contain as much moisture) will usually clear the inside of the windshield faster than non air conditioned.

Be aware that brakes can be affected by water. Wet drum type brakes are especially prone to decreased stopping power after driving through deep water.

Watch for splashing from potholes and pools of water that accumulate at clogged storm drain pipes and low areas of the pavement. Highways also develop "ruts" where the heaviest traffic tracks, and you may be able to position your vehicle while remaining in your lane to avoid these.

Use a rain repellent product on side windows and mirrors to clear standing raindrops .

Beware of driving in the rain, especially at night. Motorcycles or even other dark-colored cars can be camouflaged amongst glistening raindrops on side windows and mirrors. It's best to have a light colored car that isn't easily camouflaged in the night.

Shifting a 10-speed transmission: as Easy as a Manual Car

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Mon, 25 Apr 2016 22:17:00 +0000

A 10-speed transmission is one of the most common and easiest to shift in tractor trailer trucks. it looks like the manual transmission in a car, the shifting pattern is designed in a standard (H) pattern. The only difference is that in big trucks there is a lower and upper or high range. Driving a semi truck requires the driver to upshift and downshift using a selector. however, is as easy as driving a car or other smaller vehicle with a traditional manual transmission.

# for Upshifting:

- place the shift lever with double clutching, to the next wanted gear position in LO

range.

- Range shift (LO to HI) Range (5th to 6th)…

at last gear position of LO range and for the next upshift, pull up the Range Selector and place the shift lever with double-clutching, to the next wanted gear position.

because the shift lever is passing through neutral, the transmission is going to shift from LO to HI range automatically.

- place the shift lever in neutral position to allow the range shift to complete,then place the shift lever back into gear.

- Continue upshifting with double clutching, to the next wanted gear position in HI range.

The purpose of the high range gear system is allowing the driver to continue to use the same gear positions again, without having to place the shifter into a pattern that would require the shifter to go into a position that would be hard to reach.

- don't move the range lever with the shift lever in neutral position while the truck is moving.
- when shifting from 5th gear to 6th gear, splitter up before shifting.

# for Downshifting:

- place the shift lever, double clutching, to the next wanted gear position in HI range.

- Range shift from (HI to LO) Range (6th to 5th)…

when you are at 6th gear position and ready for downshifting, preselect LO range, push the Range Selector down.

- place the shift lever with double clutching, to the next wanted gear position in LO range.

because the shift lever is passing through neutral, the transmission is going to shift from HI range to LO range automatically.

- Continue downshifting with double clutching, to the next wanted gear position in LO range.

Downshifting is a little more difficult than upshifting. You perform much the same steps, but before shifting down to the next lower gear position you will need to press the acceleration pedal to raise the rpm.

use hard walls and soft wall to assist in finding gears and shifting easily.

finally, note that the common mistake of students is shifting from 6th gear to 7th gear instead of 6th to 7th, you have to push the shifter forward to the neutral to allow the spring to push the shifter to soft wall then shift to 7th gear (as a solution).

Changing Your Truck's Oil Won't be a Problem any More

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Sun, 24 Apr 2016 15:25:00 +0000

Changing oil in your truck saves your time and money, Taking the truck to a maintenance shop takes about full day after making an appointment and driving to the shop. After learning how to do this, you will never take it to a shop again.

Before changing the oil you should run the truck and warm the oil to gather all the dirty particles. also, It will be easier to be drained and Make sure that the parking brake is set.

Get wrench fits your drain plug, an oil filter, an oil filter wrench, a bucket for catching the oil, and the oil. ensure knowing what type of oil your truck requires. If you do not know, you can find this in your truck manual and the oil capacity also, or you can easily ask some one who knows.

- at first, Jack up your truck by floor jack. get the jack between the front tires in the center of the front brace . Making sure that the surface you parked on is stable, so that the jack doesn't move. Jack up your truck to get the front tires off the ground. For being safe, get a jack stand under the brace, inside of the two front tires To ensure that the vehicle will not fall on you while changing the oil in case of failing the jack. Blocking the rear tires will also help eliminate the risk of the jack moving.

- then, Slide under the truck then Locate the oil pan and loosen the bolt at the end of the oil pan.

Before unscrewing the bolt is completely, get the bucket underneath the drain plug to catch the oil as it drains.

- get the oil Drained from the oil pan, then clean the bolt and screw it back in using your fingers. then you should take the wrench and tighten it one more quarter to half rotation to ensure that the bolt it tightened enough, but don't tight so much, because it will pinch the rubber seal.

- Using the oil filter wrench unscrew the oil filter (at the right of the oil pan). Before screwing out the filter, place the container under the filter again for catching any oil still in the filter

- screw the new filter in place of the old filter which is Disposed of. make sure that you have the correct filter, because size will vary depending on model and type of motor of your truck. Also, make sure that you have removed off the O-ring from old filter of the filter housing for being sure that the new filter gets installed correctly.

- rub fresh oil around the rim of the filter to ensure that there is a good seal when the new filter is screwed in then Hand tighten the filter taking the oil filter wrench and tighten one more quarter turn.

- get the tools gathered and move from under the truck then get the two jack stands removed and low the floor jack.

- Pop the hood of the truck and unscrew the oil cap (located on the left side of the engine). any debris should be removed as it could potentially fall into the oil. Put the recommended amount of oil into your truck. Screw the oil cap back on then close the hood of the truck.

note: Don't use an old oil.

finally, Run your truck about ten minutes, then check the oil level with dipstick. Top off oil if wanted and Do not forget to release the parking brake before driving the truck again.

Vehicle's Oil Level: Successfully Checked

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Sun, 24 Apr 2016 14:13:00 +0000

You have to check your Vehicle's oil at least once a month for making sure that there is enough oil and it is not contaminated. the purpose of oil is reducing the friction in the engine and keeping it running smoothly. if the oil is dirty or smells of gasoline when checking, you should change it.

# To find out if your vehicle needs oil you should follow these steps:

- get the dip stick Pulled out then wipe it off on a clean free rag.

- make sure that the engine is cold (has been off about ten minutes) before checking the oil. The location of the oil dipstick depends on your vehicle type and model (you can easily find it).

- Insert the stick again into the pipe.

- turn the dipstick around If it gets stuck on the way in.

get the dipstick pulled out again and look at the film of oil on the end of the stick.

- Note the height of oil film reaches on the dipstick and the oil condition, and add or change the oil as wanted.

- Look for (a screw off cap) which is located on top of the largest part of your engine. It might be blank or it might be labeled as Oil Cap, or something similar. also, it might indicate which amount of oil you need to be used in your Vehicle. Unscrew the cap and add oil as wanted.

- now, you can Put the dipstick back into the pipe. Vehicle's Oil Level: Successfully Checked.

note: Oil turns black quickly, but that doesn’t mean that the quality affected. Rub a little between index finger and thumb, and if there is a dirty smudge, it will need to be changed.

If the oil looks clean but only reaches the Add sign on the dipstick, you just have to add more oil. You can buy oil from the service station or you can find it at supermarkets, auto supply, large drugstores, and stores discount stores.

Truck Blind Spots: Fully Under Control

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Sun, 24 Apr 2016 13:47:00 +0000

Whether you are sharing the road with a car, motorcycle, bicycle or other small vehicle, it is important for safety to follow traffic laws, obey the rules of the road, and drive defensively. is there any special rule for sharing the road with a small vehicle?
- Yes! Here are some advises from professional truck drivers.

# Blind Spots:

- Although most trucks have several rear view mirrors, it is easy for a car, motorcycle or bicycle to be hidden in your truck's blind spot.
- Do not follow closely behind a car or motorcycle.
- When driving near a small vehicle, be aware of your blind spots on the right, left, front and behind.

# Rear Blind Spots:

- trucks have deep blind spots behind them. Tailgating greatly increases the chances of a rear collision with a smaller vehicle.

# Unsafe Passing:

- Another blind spot is just in front of your truck. When passing a car, be sure you can see the cab in your rear view mirror before going forward.

# Wide Right Turns:

- Truck drivers need sometimes to swing wide to the left to make a safe negotiate a right turn. you cannot see cars, motorcycles or bicycles directly behind or beside you.

- Cutting in between the truck and the curb to the right increases the possibility of a crash.

# Backing Up:

- When your truck is backing up, it sometimes must block the street to maneuver your trailer accurately so Never prepare to back up or is in the process of doing so when car is going to cross behind your truck and remember that most trailers are eight and a half feet wide and can completely hide objects that suddenly come between them and loading areas.

# Passing:

- When passing, you should check to your front and rear, and move into the passing lane only if it is clear.
- Let the car driver know you are passing by blinking your headlights, especially at night. The driver will make it easier for you by staying to the far side of the lane.

- On a level highway, it takes only three to five seconds longer to let a car to pass your truck. On an upgrade, your truck often loses speed, so it is easier to pass than a car.
- On a downgrade, your truck's momentum will make it to go faster, so let the car increase its speed. Complete your pass quickly and don't stay beside any other vehicle.

- When your truck passes you, you can help the car driver by keeping to the far side of your lane.
- After passing, you should signal to let car driver know that the truck will be returning to his lane.

- When you meet a car coming from the opposite direction, keep as far as possible to the side to avoid a side crash.

# being Followed:

- In general, trucks take slightly longer than cars to stop because of their size, but at highway speeds and on wet roads, trucks have better stability allowing them to stop more quickly.
- A car following too closely may not be able to stop quickly enough to avoid rear of your truck.

If you were followed, stay out of its "blind spot" to the rear.
- Avoid being followed too closely and position your truck so the you can see the car in your side mirrors.
- Then he will have a good view of the road ahead, and you can give him plenty of warning for a stop or a turn and the car will have more time to react and make a safe stop.

Hill Parking For Automatic Transmission Cars

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Fri, 22 Apr 2016 01:01:00 +0000

parking a car on a steep hill, gravity works against you. If proper precautions is not taken , the car could roll downhill, harming people and properties. basicly, make sure to get the parking gear and turn your the wheels in the proper direction. Turn your wheels toward the curb, for parking downhill, and away from the curb for parking uphill.

@ Parking the car parallel to the curb:

- for parking uphill, make sure a full car's length of space is to left behind your car. this space is needed for backing into the curb.

- for parking on a downhill incline, make sure a full car's length of space is left in front of your car so that the wheels can go forward into its position.

turn your wheels to the side of the road, If the street which you are parking on doesn't have a curb.It does not matter if you are parking on an uphill or downhill incline. the likelihood will increase your car rolls away from the street, If your emergency brake failed.

@ Turning the tires:

- for parking uphill, turn the tires away from the curb.

- for parking downhill, turn them toward the curb.

- Press on the foot brake then place the car in neutral position, and turn the steering wheel a full turn in the proper direction and make sure to avoid dry steering.

@ Rolling the car into the curb:

- place the car into neutral gear, keeping your foot on the brake. When you get ready, take off your foot away of the brake.

- Let the car roll slowly downhill until you feel the front tire is touching the curb then Hit the foot brake to stop the car.

- Make sure that there are not any other car is coming up or down the hill behind you, Check your mirrors and look over your shoulders.

make sure to keep your car's brake maintenance current. check your brakes each time you have your car serviced. A fully applying emergency brake can keep your car from rolling even on the steepest of hills.

finally, Leave the car, Make sure that the car is in park and apply the the emergency brake.

Parking on a Hill (the easiest steps)

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Fri, 22 Apr 2016 00:20:00 +0000

Parking a car on a Hill is not so hard to be learned, if you can make a manual transmission car moves, you will probably make it easily, but here you will learn the best technique for hill parking.

@ Parking the car parallel to the curb:

- your front tire of the passenger side must touch the curb in gently way, and your rear tire of passenger side should be no more than six inches from the curb.

- for parking uphill, make sure a full car's length of space is to left behind your car. this space is needed for backing into the curb.

- for parking on a downhill incline, make sure a full car's length of space is left in front of your car so that the wheels can go forward into its position.

@ Turning the tires:

- for parking uphill, turn the tires away from the curb.

- for parking downhill, turn them toward the curb.

- Press on the foot brake then place the car in neutral position, and turn the steering wheel a full turn in the proper direction and make sure to avoid dry steering.

dry steering is turning your wheels when the car is completely stopped. This is too bad on the tires and the power steering system.

@ Rolling the car into the curb:

- place the car into neutral gear, keeping your foot on the brake. When you get ready, take off your foot away of the brake.

- Let the car roll slowly downhill until you feel the front tire is touching the curb then Hit the foot brake to stop the car.

- Make sure that there are not any other car is coming up or down the hill behind you, Check your mirrors and look over your shoulders.

@ Pulling the handbrake:

- place the car stick into either first gear or reverse then Leave the car in first gear for parking on an uphill incline, and leave it in reverse for parking on a downhill incline, This helps keeping your car away from rolling, because it makes your transmission in the opposite direction which the car would roll if your emergency brake fails.

finally, Keep some of wheel chocks in your car if you are worry about your car's ability to stay stable put on a steep incline. Wheel chock is piece of wood, rubber, or metal that is designed to be placed under a wheel to keep it from rolling. Wheel chock is inexpensive, and you can buy it at almost any auto parts retailer.

The Cost of Driving

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Thu, 21 Apr 2016 21:05:00 +0000

calculating the cost of driving, is important for determine your paycheck spent on driving, which maintenance and includes fuel costs to get a good idea of the most basic costs.

@ Fuel Costs:

- determine fuel expenses by record the number of miles or kilometers on the odometer when the fuel tank is nearly empty.

- Fill the tank when it is near empty. without top off the tank.

- Refill the tank when it is near empty again and record the number of gallons it took to fill.

- Check the odometer again at refilling and subtract the old number on the odometer from the - - new number to see how far your car went.

- record the difference between the two odometer readings. If the number was 30,000 miles when you filled the tank the first time and 30,300 when you refilled,this means that you drove 300 miles with 1 tank of gas.

- Divide the number of miles or kilometers you drove by the number of gallons it took to refill your tank. For ex, if you drove 300 miles and burned 15 gallons of gasoline, your vehicle got about 20 miles per gallon.

- Divide the distance driven in a month by the miles per gallon. (If your car has 30,000 miles and is 40 months old, the car drove about 750 miles per month.) In this hypothetical example, divide 750 by 20 gallons to get the number of gallons you burn per month: 37.5 gallons.

- Multiply the total amount of fuel per month by the cost of a gallon of gasoline to get your monthly fuel costs. If gas costs $4 per gallon, you spend $128 per month on fuel, or 17 cents per mile.

@ Maintenance:

- Add up what you spend in a year on oil changes, tires and other maintenance and car repair bills.

- Divide this total by 12 to get the monthly total. If the total is (ex) $1,890 per year, the monthly cost for maintenance, repairs is $157.50 per month.

- Add inspection and registration costs for a year and divide by 12. If the total is $100 per year, the monthly cost is $8.33.

@ Costs of Driving:

- Add the monthly totals for fuel ($128 in the example); maintenance, repairs and insurance ($157.50 a month); and inspection and registration ($8.33) to see how much it costs to drive the car per month.

- Divide vehicle operation costs, $293.83 per month by the distance you drive per month, 750 miles in the ex, to calculate the cost per mile. The cost per mile for this driver and vehicle is 39.17 cents per mile.

Note that the costs in this calculation do not include finance charges drivers pay to buy the vehicle, travel time, depreciation of the car's value, accidents, parking and tolls, and societal costs of taxes and other costs from factors such as road construction and pollution abatement.

a Car with Automatic or Manual Transmission (the final decision)

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Thu, 21 Apr 2016 20:49:00 +0000

buying a new car is a really big deal, and you are not sure about whether you want a car with a manual or automatic transmission. This lesson will educate you how to choice, and you will understand the differences between each other. Then you should decide which transmission type is the best for you.

@ basics studies:

- the manual transmission and the automatic transmission each allow the engine to operate in its narrow range of speeds while providing a different range of speeds. Without a transmission, cars would be limited to one gear only, and this gear would have to be selected to allow the car to move at the selected speed.

- If you wanted a top speed of 80 mph (for example), then the gear would be selected on fourth gear (in most manual transmission cars). If you tried driving a manual transmission car using only 4th gear, you would find out that you had no acceleration when starting the car. also it would wear out very quickly and you would not be able to drive it.

@ power Consideration:

- the most power from the engine, go with a manual transmission versus an automatic one is most suitable study.

for ex, an automatic equipped Dodge Neon has a reported 0 – 60 MPH with time of 10.5 seconds. The same Neon when equipped with a 5-speed manual has a reported 0 – 60 with time of 8.1 seconds,2.4 is a very long time. While most cars do not have this large of a 0 – 60 MPH gap between auto and manual transmissions, for other type of cars you will receive better performance from a manual gearbox.

- the car that receives 200 horsepower at 7,000 RPM, the automatic transmission will up-shift for full throttle at only 6,000 RPM, the full amount of power that your engine was made to offer is missed. the engine often stampes with a 200 horsepower rating, but as the car is equipped with an automatic that up-shifts too soon, you will miss up to 20% of the engine power.

- with most manual transmissions, you can take the engine revs to the red limit and pass it. This lets you to get the most power to the front and rear wheels for full throttle launch.

@ semi-automatic transmission Consideration:

- If you want a car for power and for everyday using, you should consider a semi-automatic transmission. Usually, they're found on the sport cars. simply, they are an automatic transmission with the option to go manual.

- the manual mode, isn't the common gearshift, but a(+) on the top and a(-) on the bottom allows you to shift up and to downshift.

@ fuel economy issue Consideration:

- going with a manual transmission is the best choice if there is an issue, although it is far from your only choice. Many newer cars with automatics have an EPA rating of only 1 or 2 MPG less than the same model car equipped with the manual.

- There are exceptions to this rule. Some vehicles get better mileage (5 mpg or more) as an automatic compared to the manual, most notably in like the PT Cruiser. If this is the case, most people are not going to save a big amount of money on fuel expenses going with the 5-speed manual (especially for city driving). Since the most of drivers do not manually shift for economy, the 1 or 2 MPG that is lost with the automatic can easily be gained.

@ maintenance costs consideration:

- most automatic transmissions still need to be serviced far than manual transmissions . Manual transmissions are much cheaper to be fixed for mechanical problems. the manual transmission costs you less to repair than the automatic in the same type of car.

- also, The clutch disc in manual transmissions needs to be replaced sometimes. There are many factors that determine how long a clutch will last such as driving style, the material the clutch disc is made of, and the amount of (city vs highway) driving. Clutch replacement can cost several hundred dollars if performed at a repair shop.

@ Identify your needs:

- if you are looking to buy a 1.5 liter car that pumps out 62 horsepower you will need to go with a manual transmission. power in this case is extremely limited, you will need the most out of your engine for passing power, hill climbing, etc.

- at the other side, if you are looking to purchase a car with a V8 or V6 that provides power at both high and low revs, then going with a manual transmission is not required.

Other things to consider:

- An automatic transmission car is better for starting out on a hill than a manual transmission one.

- A newer automatic transmission car has more electronic controls than a manual transmission one.

@ Do you really like the manual transmission?

- Some people can't have a car with a manual transmission for many reasons. They might be unwilling to learn to use one. They might need to share the car with someone who doesn't know how to operate a manual, etc.

- what ever the reason you have. search for an automatic that has a good shift patterns and a good fuel economy.

- If you love to drive a manual transmission, there are not many features to look for. Manual transmissions all have their own unique shifting patterns. Many are designed for fuel economy, others are designed for sport driving,.

@ are you a multi-tasker?

- if you are a multi-tasker then you qualify for a manual. Manuals need you to concentrate on track, shifting the gears at the same time, and road hazards, but if you like to have your right hand free at all times to multitask then you will need an automatic transmission.

- note: multitasking for many reasons, is a very bad driving practice, not to mention that it is illegal in lots of places.

finally, know that Manual transmission cars are less expensive than auto, Usually by $1000. also, In some countries for example the United Kingdom, your not allowed to drive with manual transmission if you took your driving test in an automatic. If you want to drive a manual, you must pass the test in a manual vehicle.

Drive Safely In Fog

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Thu, 21 Apr 2016 13:19:00 +0000

Drive Safely In Fog

Driving in fog is dangerous because visibility is reduced. To keep safe, follow thesetips for driving in fog

Tips

Be Aware of Local Weather Conditions. Fog is often a morning or evening weather phenomena, so if possible, avoid driving during these times. Also be aware of local areas that tend to accumulate fog, like certain seaside areas, and other low lying areas near lakes and rivers.

Allow More Distance Between Vehicles. Increase your count distance by 5 seconds instead of the normal 2 seconds behind another vehicle. Never rush or speed to get out of the fog.

Use caution at all times. The moisture in the air may continuously collect on the windshield, making it more difficult to see. Adjust the defroster and windshield wiper speed as necessary.

Use fog lights or driving lights (if equipped). Many vehicles have fog or driving lights that were installed at the factory. These lights are usually mounted low, in or below the front bumper. They are aimed toward the ground out in front of the vehicle as far as possible. Fog lights mainly differ from driving lights in the way they project the light. Fog lights often have clear or yellow lenses; while driving lights usually have clear lenses. The beam of light created by fog lights is usually wide and flat pattern; flat to stay close the road surface and minimize reflection back by fog - and wide to better illuminate the sides of the roadway (guard rails, curbs, lines painted on the roadway, etc.). Driving lights are usually merely bright spot lights designed to pierce the night darkness further than regular headlights. While fog lights are best for foggy conditions, either type of light will likely perform better than headlights due to their low mounting point on the vehicle. Experiment using all combinations (if possible) of fog / driving lights "on" and the low beam headlights "on" or "off" to determine which setting provides the best forward visibility for the driver. Do not shut off the running or "parking" lights, as they help make your vehicle more visible to other drivers alongside and behind your vehicle.

Use your low beams. The visibility in front of you will sharply decrease in a fog, so use the vehicle's low beam lights (if the vehicle does not have fog lights or driving lights). Heavy fog conditions prohibit use of high beam headlights. The light from high beam headlights will be reflected back by thick fog. As fog thins, high beams can become more effective. Check periodically to see if the fog has thinned enough to make use of high beams.

Don't Drift. There's a natural tendency to wander into the middle of the road when visibility gets bad. Be sure to keep yourself in your lane.

Beware of Critters. Animals--especially white tail deer--feel bolder under cover of fog and are much harder to see.

Pull over to the side of the road if you have no visibility. If it gets too difficult or thick, pull over and wait. Turning on your hazard lights alerts other drivers of where you are.

Use the right edge of the road as a guide. This can help you avoid running into oncoming traffic or being blinded by oncoming headlights.

How to Change a Flat Tire

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Thu, 21 Apr 2016 12:42:00 +0000

Change a Flat Tire

Steps
Park car on flat surface, put on emergency brake and hazard lights. Set up reflective warning triangle. put block on tire diagonally opposite flat tire, and remove spare tire from car (make sure it's inflated)

Remove hubcap no you can get lug nuts. Loosen nuts with wrench. Don't take any of them yet—loosen just enough to "crack" them.

Place jack underneath car at a sturdy part of the frame. Check your owner's manual for correct placement. Turn crank at end of jack by hand until it contacts the frame. .

Add jack handle for leverare: Crank handle until wheel is high enough above the ground to remove the tire. Don't stick your hands or legs under the car—it could fall and injure you.

Remove lug nuts from wheel by turning them counterclockwise. and keep them in your hubcap so they don't roll away. Remove flat tire and lay flat. You don't want it to roll away either.

Line up spare tire with wheel studs and place on car. Once wheel is on, replace lug nuts and tighten them by hand, and then with your lug wrench. until you meet firm resistance.

Lower jack until wheel is firmly on the ground. Finish tightening your lug nuts. To get the lug nuts on as tightly as possible. unleash the power of the star pattern.

Spare tires aren't supposed to be driven on for long distances or at high speeds, so you need to drive slowly and get your flat tire fixed and replaced as soon as possible.

As soon as possible, take your car to your Ford Dealer Service Center to have the flat tire repaired or replaced and put back on the car. This is also a good time to have the other three tires inspected so you’ll know you’re heading back on the road with your wheels in tip-top shape again.

Tips

Be aware of your surroundings. If you're on a busy road, be particularly wary of vehicles driving by that might get too close. There are hundreds of people killed each year while changing a tire on the side of the road; don't do this unless you must.

For safety, place an object such as a log, large rock, etc., under the vehicle after jacking, but before removing the tire. Place it so that it will stop the vehicle from dropping in case the jack is dislodged or shifts for some reason while the wheel is removed. Place it near a part of the frame or other supporting part not too far from the wheel.

Most spare tires (the undersized "donut" tires) are not designed for speeds of more than 50 mph (80 km/h) or for long distances. Exceeding this speed can cause problems, including failure of the spare tire. Instead, drive slowly and carefully to a shop and have your tire repaired or replaced.

Common Questions

?What can I do if I can't turn the lug nuts

Put something on the end of the wrench, such as a piece of piping. This will increase leverage and allow the lug nut to turn easily.

What is a hubcap?

A hubcap is the snap-on cover that hides the lug nuts. You can pop it off with a flat-blade screwdriver or crowbar. It makes a handy tray for the removed lug nuts too. When you are done, snap it back on, making sure to line up the air filling stem notch.

How To Jump Start a Car

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Thu, 21 Apr 2016 10:46:00 +0000

Jump Start a Car
Every man should know how to jump start a dead car battery. You never know when you’ll need this knowledge to aid a stranded damsel in distress, or help yourself get out of a jam. While jumping a dead battery is super simple, you’d be surprised by the number of men who have no idea how to do it. And even if you have learned how to jump start a car before, it can be easy to forget what cables go where. Positive on negative? Ground the positive cable on the car with the good battery? Red cable is negative?

FIRST How to Tell If Your Battery Is Dead

Before you try jump starting a car, you need to determine that the battery is the reason the car isn’t starting up. If you turn the ignition and hear the engine cranking, a dead battery isn’t your problem and jump starting it won’t do a darn thing. However, if you turn the key and the car does absolutely nothing, then there’s a good chance you have a dead battery on your hands and jumping it may be your ticket to getting back on the road.

Steps

Make sure both cars are turned off.

Connect one end of the red (positive) jumper cable to the positive terminal on the stalled battery.

Connect the other red (positive) cable to the positive terminal of the good battery.

Connect one end of the black (negative) jumper cable to the negative terminal of the good battery.

Connect the other black (negative) cable to a clean, unpainted metal surface under the disabled car’s hood.

Start the car that’s doing the jumping; run for 2 to 3 minutes before starting dead car.

Remove cables in reverse order.

Keep jumped car running for at least 30 minutes to give battery sufficient time to recharge.

The hardest part of the job is simply remembering where to put each cable. Many a man has broken out in a sweat wondering if he is about to make a wrong move and toast himself to a crisp. Here’s the good news: It’s probably impossible to electrocute yourself from jump starting a car. The battery might give you a big shock, but the voltage is too low to penetrate your skin and put you down for the count.

How to Jump Start a Car Without Cables

If you have a standard transmission car, you can jump start that bad boy without using cables. Here’s how you do it:

Find a stretch of clear downhill road.

Fully depress the clutch and put the car in first gear.

Turn the ignition to on.

Take your foot off the brake and start rolling down the hill, leaving the clutch fully depressed.

Coast down the hill until you reach 5-7 miles per hour.

Release the clutch quickly. You should feel the engine turn and start. If it doesn’t start the first time, depress the clutch and release it again.

If you don’t have a hill, get some of your buddies to give you a push and follow the steps above.

Stay Safe on the Highway

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Thu, 21 Apr 2016 09:31:00 +0000

Stay Safe on the Highway
The planet is changing and the highways have become increasingly more active permanently. Therefore, we ought to take extra precautions to make sure us of the safer trip, if it is merely down to the corner store even. Here are some steps that might help us all to remain safe on the road.

Steps

Stay alert and buckle up.

Concentrate on your driving a car, as well as the automobile behind you, before you, also to either aspect of you; ensure that your rear-view reflection and area mirrors are fine-tuned.

Keep a safe distance in the middle of your vehicle and the automobile before you.

Drive cautiously. Stay at a safe rate to permit you time to fully stop.

Respect others. Usually do not drive with a mobile phone jammed to your ear canal. Yank over if you intend or need to discuss on the telephone.

Convert your radio or car stereo system down. Don't possess it blaring because if an ambulance, flames pickup truck or a authorities car are having to get by, you should be able to listen to their sirens. Usually you could wrap up in a wreck and traveling within an ambulance.

Ensure that you have a good extra tire and wheel jack port in your trunk, and a jumper cable television and every other tools which may be needed. It really is smart to hold a caution triangle also

Pay follow and attention street symptoms, such as STOP symptoms; come to a full stop, and look both real ways, before advancing. Keep an optical eye out for the people that might not exactly obey road signs. Also look out for motorcycles.

Decelerate, below normal quickness, while driving a vehicle on winding highways... meaning tons of curves in the street.

Pull to the make of the street: If your vehicle is driving a car harshly above the roads, and is creating a problem with your power steering even, then the essential thing to look into is your tires. You'll be able to have substantial harm to the tread without it being obvious from the medial side as a set would be.

More Tips

Before beginning an extended drive, always get enough rest and eat something prior to going. Highly caffeinated beverages aren't necessarily the ultimate way to stay awake while driving. While you will feel more alert initially, the consequences can recede as time passes, as well as your attention might wander although you continue to be awake.

Yank over and take breaks every handful of hours, in case you don't feel sleepy. Pick up a snack, get some good oxygen, and extend your lower limbs by travelling. If you want to, have a quick nap.

When you can, share the generating obligations with another person. This will help you to monitor the other person while generating and also permit one to nap without shedding time. If you are driving alone, start the air or placed on some music, and keep your windowpane cracked open. You may even want to avoid using your sail control if you are driving alone during the night -- needing to concentrate on keeping your speed will help you stay awake.

In the event that you do have to move over, move your automobile off the street. Never park on the make or in the malfunction street for just about any reason except a crisis.

Don't hold out until your gas measure is sitting down on E to refuel. On a new road, you never know when another gas place can look. As as you hit 25 % of an tank soon, start buying spot to fill.

Backing Up a Semi Truck at a 90 Degree Angle

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Mon, 04 Apr 2016 22:03:00 +0000

Backing Up a Semi Truck at a 90 Degree Angle is not too hard but the major dysfunction comes from having your hands in the wrong place on the wheel. If you have your hands on top of the wheel in the standard 10 and 2 o'clock position, it is turn the wheel in the OPPOSITE direction you want the trailer to go, which is of course very confusing for some.

Rule: move your hands to the bottom of the steering wheel, at the 8 and 4 o'clock positions or even 7 and 5. Now when turn the wheel you hands move the way you want the trailer to go. The trailer moves the SAME direction as your hands. Push hands left...trailer goes left. Push hands right...trailer goes right.

1# Positioning the Tractor-Trailer.

- Position the tractor-trailer so the target of the alley docking maneuver is on driver's side. though alley docking is possible from either side, doing it from the left side of the rig is desirable to backing from the blind, or right, side. Blind-side backing, particularly employing a road tractor with a sleeper, is next to not possible for many drivers. make sure that the wheels of the trailer are slightly past the target of the alley docking procedure.

2# Jacking.

- Jacking is that the method of putting the tractor ninety degrees to the trailer and pushing the front of the trailer sideways. Begin jacking by turning the wheel all the way to the right before backing up the tractor. If you do not turn the wheel all the way to the right before beginning the tractor in reverse, the tractor can really push the trailer backward longer, probably missing the alley.

3# Chasing.

- Chasing is that the method of steering the tractor back in front of the trailer to end the docking maneuver because the trailer reaches a 90-degree angle to the target. Begin to chase the trailer at a point more or less fifteen degrees before the trailer is at a right angle to the target. turn the wheel quickly to the left while moving the tractor at a really slow speed. Time the chase maneuver so the tractor and trailer are at a 90-degree angle to the target.

4# Take your time.

- Some drivers feel that they need to rush the alley docking maneuver as a result of traffic might sneak up behind them or try to pass them while they're acting the maneuver. Going slowly decreases the chance of a traffic accident.

- Go slow till the tractor is jacked at a 90-degree angle to the trailer. Push the front of the trailer over slowly to make sure to not overshoot the purpose wherever the tractor starts to chase the trailer.

finally, If a team of 2 drivers is manning the tractor-trailer, have the co-driver get out and stop traffic. Have the co-driver assist the driver by looking at the side of the tractor-trailer to make sure that the driver doesn't hit any unseen objects. one driver ought to additionally try to enlist facilitate from people at the building he's attempting to back to.

Backing Up a Semi Truck at a 45 Degree Angle

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Mon, 04 Apr 2016 21:37:00 +0000

Backing a tractor-trailer at a 45-degree angle is one among the most common backing maneuvers employed by drivers. this can be called alley docking. it's helpful for parking in between trailers at a terminal, or backing into a loading dock, or maybe even an alley. luckily it's one of the simpler backing maneuvers for new drivers to find out. By following a step-by-step routine, you must be backing into tight spots in no time.

1# Slide your tandems all the way back.

- This makes it easier to control the back of the trailer. If you're pulling into a dock, latch the trailer doors open.

- Angle your trailer toward the driver's side at 45 degrees to the dock or the place you're pulling into. Your tractor ought to be angled slightly steeper than the trailer thus you'll see the left side of the trailer and the dock in your driver-side mirror.

2# Choose a point to aim at.

- like a pole or the corner of a wall. several loading docks have aiming points painted on them with yellow or red paint. you must additionally use the lines on the pavement to be certain your trailer tires are in the right place. purpose the left rear of the trailer toward your aiming purpose. Use your left mirror to navigate with.

3# Turn on your hazard signals.

- Blow 2 short blasts on the highway horn. this can warn others that you simply are backing up. back up slowly, correcting with the wheel to keep the trailer heading toward your aiming purpose. Keep your foot on the clutch to control your speed. If you get off track, pull forward to a small degree and line up.

4# Go very slowly.

- Straighten the tractor once the trailer enters the front of the dock. to try and do this you may need to cut the wheel to the right then hard left. Pull forward if you're not absolutely straight with the dock, straighten yourself out then back in.

- use only the clutch and foot pedal to control your speed. you will not be happy crashing into the dock or whatever is at the back of the parking spot. If you are not certain how close you're to the back of the spot, get out of the truck and check it out.

- If you're pulling into a dock, you may feel the trailer hit the bump stops. Apply the foot break, then engage the parking brakes.

Find a spotter to guide you into the car parking zone. Dock workers or co-drivers are usually glad to assist, never open the door and hang around of the cab to examine wherever you're going while you're backing up and always use the mirrors while backing up.

BASIC INFORMATION

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Thu, 31 Mar 2016 14:50:00 +0000

?What is Drifting

Drifting is a driving style in which the throttle is utilized by the driver,brakes, clutch,gear shifting and steering input to keep carefully the car in circumstances of oversteer while manoeuvring from from turn to turn,Drifters emphasise car control by coordinating the quantity of counter steer (or opposite lock) with the simultaneous modulation of the throttle and brakes to change shift the weight balance of the car back and forth through the turns. Furthermore, they make an effort to achieve this while sticking with the typical racing lines and and maintaining extreme slip angles.

Many drivers really enjoy the fact that practicing the art of drifting at grassroots events teaches them how exactly to safely control an automobile at its limit, while some simply benefit from the adrenaline hurry of throwing an automobile around a a track while completely sideways with smoke billowing from the rear tyres In its simplest sense, drifting translates to pure driving enjoyment and fun
?What Do I Need to Start DriftingThis is a problem we get asked a lot, and the answer is a very simple one You will need a rear wheel drive car, preferably with a limited slip differential or a welded differential – these are the only ingredients you need to get started A car with a manual gearbox and resilient clutch, a functioning handbrake, coil over suspension and a supportive bucket seat will make things much easier again, allowing you to attack the turns with more vigour and confidence.

You can compensate for not having a lot of power by increasing the pressure in the rear tyres. It’s a myth that drift cars need to run poor quality rear tyres in order to drift succesfully – drift cars need as much lateral grip as a regular track car (if not more) in order to attain the huge speeds and massive angles that are often achieved at competition level. However, when you’re learning the basics at a grassroots practice day, cheap and/or part-worn tyres are perfectly suitable for learning the basics.

?Where Should I Learn to Drift
Let me begin by you should never drift on the general public road ,

The great thing to do is to employ a location} of tarmac, that you can do at many competition circuits or airfields and construct some cones then make an effort to drift around them.

That method you are safe,| everyone else is safe and there

shouldn’t be anything close by to hit… whilst drifting is great fun, it’s relatively difficult and you’ll not get it right straight away

WHAT KIND OF CAR DO I NEED

DRIFT

Essentially any rear wheel drive car is capable of drifting, especially if it’s fitted with a limited slip or welded differential. However, some cars represent much better value for money than others while having readily available upgrade parts, along with easy access to spares. Starter cars to look for include:

Nissan 200 S13 S14 s15 Silvia (Turbos are better)

Nissan Z33

Corolla Levin

Nissan Silvia

Nissan 180SX

Nisssan Laural

Toyota Supra

Toyota Altezza (Lexus LS200)

Mazda RX7

Mazda RX8

Mazda MX5

Nissan Skyline (ER34’s are easy to convert to RWD)

Toyota Corolla 1.3 GT-s make sure it’s the old RWD model

BMW – all RWD the e30 & new M3 is fantastic.

Ford Escort Mk1

Ford Sierra

Honda S2000

Honda NSX

Nissan 350

Vauxhall Monaro

Vauxhall Senator

Most American Muscle cars RWD!

Nissan 200SXs/Silvias (S13, S14, S15 etc.)

Nissan Skylines (GTS variants are rear wheel drive)

BMW 3 Series

Toyota Supras

Ford Sierras

Alternatively, it is possible to convert 4WD cars to rear wheel drive simply by locking the centre differential and removing the drive to the front wheels, but bear in mind this will put a lot more stress on components that would normally only be dealing with a fraction of the power.
IN BRIEF

Rear or four wheel drive with a rear bias

Lots of power is useful

A limited slip differential to keep both rear wheels spinning, rather than just one

The ability to turn off any electronic stability control systems

Cheap rear tyres!

You can't drift properly in a front wheel drive car - you can oversteer temporarily, but it's impossible to sustain a drift correctly without rear or four wheel drive.

GETTING STARTED

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Thu, 31 Mar 2016 14:50:00 +0000

?How do I get started in Drifting

No simple way to learn drifting, You may upset potentially

the organizer and the property manager by doing something you

were not permitted to do. It is not smart to try and drift in roads or at unsupervised areas like car parks or empty roads. Anyways, how to drift depends on the type of drift you want to do. So we will learn drifting by learning their types

Things to do Before You Begin Drifting

Set up a cone in the middle of a safe area of tarmac. Drive up to the

cone and tear the handbrake trying to do a 180 degree

handbrake turn. Hone this until you are no more, and no less than

180 degrees from when you started.

Learn how to counter-steer by ripping the handbrake from a speed of

30–40 mph (48–64 km/h) (anything less will cause an inadequate

amount of momentum to get you around the cone) and trying to

control the car to a destination until the car stops.

Increase speed of each of these things until you are comfortable

Try to do the 180 cone too.

.Drift Equipment

Brakes

Brakes will surely take a pounding and really should be improved As the very least make sure you have race or fast road spec pads at all times Change the brake fluid or better still swap it for completelysynthetic brake fluid Adding braided brake hoses will ensure that braking disasters are minimised further If you are spending money on the brakes also consider upgrading to bigger brake disks which are vented, drilled and grooved.

Suspension.

Control is key, so a soft suspension setup will cause all manner of problems and create a stodgy ride. Obviously the optimum suspension set up varies from car to car and also driver preference plays a huge part It is worth getting suspension you can modify yourself so look for ones that permit custom ride height, stiffness and electronic adjustment to the dampers. At least you can play around until you find your optimum set up and you can switch back to a more road friendly setting for the journeyhome. Suspension can be supplemented with strut braces for rigidity and also by switching rubber bushes for polyurethane to aid stiffness. Set the front for negative Camber to give the front more grip and help with oversteer. The rears should be set with very little negative camber (virtually_vertical) to reduce grip in corners.

Steering

Make sure that your steering rack is good condition, does not have any play and that the wheels are straight when the steering wheel is in its default rotation A quick lock to lock steering rack is nice to have. Small steering wheels are actually worse to use so get an ‘old bus’ steering wheel rather than trying to look cool.

Clutch.

This requires a real pounding. For drifting obtain the heaviest duty clutch you can fit. Double and Triple plate clutches are good as are ceramic, brass button clutches but these are not always designed for all cars. Various compounds can be found. In the event that you get a heavy clutch and your car has a cable clutch pedal make sure that the cable is heavy duty enough.

.Body work

You may crash and spin off. Impact with other vehicles and barriers is also typical especially when you are starting out. In pro drift championships the bumpers are secured with cable ties so when the inevitable happens the bumper rips off breaking the cable tie and suffers little damage itself.

Tyres.

Have you noticed that the main sponsors of drift championships are tyre companies .If you are starting out stick with cheap part worn tyres. Some drivers stretch small tyres on a large rim to aid stability. Some drives have different sizes (height and width) on the front to the rear. Look for low profile tyres as these are less inclined to roll off the rims under heavy sliding. Tyre pattern is a matter of individual choice I suggest that you chat with other drivers and see what they are using. Typically hard compound on the back and the rear tyres are what you will use more of. Tyre pressures also can make a big difference - experiment with different pressures to see how handling is affected as this varies greatly from car to car.

Safety.

Need we say this Helmet, Harness, Fire Extinguisher, Roll Cage

Different types of Drifting

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Thu, 31 Mar 2016 14:50:00 +0000

?What are the different types of Drifting

There are two MAIN drifting techniques Every driver should know that

First Clutching technique

The first is called the clutching technique and is the preferred method for rear-wheel drivers. With the clutching technique, you shift the car into second gear as you approach the turns. You then rev the engine to between 4,000 and 7,000 rpm, depending on the car. With the engine revved, you turn the car hard into the turn and pop the clutch, causing the rear tires to spin and lose traction.To keep the car in the drifting motion until the next turn, you mustkeep your foot on the accelerator and make adjustments with thethrottle and steering wheel to prevent spin out. If you’ve managed to keep the car in control, you can then cut the wheel in the otherdirection and attempt to slide around the next turn in one smoothmotion. However, if you went into the turn too slowly, the car may

begin to regain traction

Second Hand-brake technique

Because front-wheel driven cars cannot generate tire spin and traction loss at the rear wheels, they require a second, alternative method of drifting: the hand-brake technique. While the clutching technique uses momentum and rear wheel torque to power the car through a set of drifts, the hand brake technique relies solely on momentum. Using this style of drifting, you would simply pull the hand brake as you approach the set of turns to cause a suddentraction loss. Since there is no driving torque involved, it is much harder to maintain the traction loss through multiple turns

using the hand-brak

Other Techniques

Dirt Drop Drift

This technique is banned on most tracks. You allow the rear wheels to leave the tarmac surface into a lower grip one such as dirt, gravel or grass. The cars speed will remain pretty stable through this technique as the rear tyre friction is much lower.

Jump Drift

Similar to a Dirt Drop Drift again banned on most tracks. The rear wheels hit the rumble strip at the side of the track. The vibration is enough to upset the delicate balance of grip momentum and traction and the rear of the car slides.

Feint Drift

Requires a feel for the balance of a car and needs you to sense the shockwave of swing as it flows through the car. Coming up to a right hand bend you steer to the left. Then as the back of the car moves left you steer to the right, the back of the car loses traction and starts to drift, then you counter steer and catch the drift. This is a popular technique and is often combined with other techniques, like the clutch kick, to help break the rear traction. Practice this one in large open areas.

Inertia Drift

This requires a lot of speed. Approaching a bend you need to decelerate throwing the weight of the car to the front wheels. When the back wheels become light you can steer the front into the bend and let the back wheels drift. Control is maintained with careful steering control and throttle inputs

Braking Drift
This is performed by braking before a corner while starting to turn in, vary the brake petal until loss of grip is obtained and then balance the over steer through steering and throttle motions.

Shift Lock
This is performed by letting the revs drop upon downshift into a corner and then releasing the clutch to put stress on the driveline to slow the rear tires inducing over steer.

Side Brake Drift
This technique is very basic, pull the E-Brake or (side brake) to induce rear traction loss and balance drift through steering and throttle play.

STAGES OF THE DRIFT

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Thu, 31 Mar 2016 14:50:00 +0000

STAGES OF THE DRIFT

We've break up the drifting process into four main Stage

A. Turning in

B. Inducing oversteer

C. Handling and sustaining the drift

D. Exiting the drift

A. TURNING IN

When understanding how to drift, our advice is to tackle a good 30mph turn in second gear at about 3000rpm - this will provide you with a respectable amount of torque to keep carefully the rear wheels content spinning once you have induced oversteer. Bear in mind drifting is not the speediest way round a area so you are not trying to create speed records here. Turn in and try to apex about 50 % way around at the geometric apex. If apex too early you will get that the automobile will run large and you will have to pay by concluding the drift early on, too late and you will be on the upright early on and won't have any moment to maintain the drift. With repetition you can drift across the place in a simple arc which comes after the racing collection.

Once you've mastered drifting across the racing series, you'll then have the ability to start out the drift before and support it for the complete corner, and modify the angle or steering simply by adjusting the throttle even.

B. INDUCING OVERSTEER

At the apex of the part you must initiate oversteer, which is certainly more challenging than it sounds sometimes. Drifting has developed its unique terminology for ways to 'get the trunk out' which are explained below. Understand that if you have today's car with clever electric stability control systems you will have to turn these off initial.?

POWER / POWER OVER / Electricity SLIDE

If you have a robust car it ought to be conceivable to break traction by just accelerating sharply mid bend - here is the favored approach to inducing oversteer since it is simple to control and repeat. In the event that you improve the throttle too slowly but surely it's unlikely anything apart from understeer will occur, too much and the automobile may spin. You're targeting a sharp, sustained hit of power in the proper gear - practice will let you get the total amount right. You could be surprised about how precisely much power is necessary on a road with an excellent surface, so it could be helpful to opt for road which is either damp or has lower traction tarmac.

CLUTCH KICK

Clutch kick is a good technique to use if you don't have an especially powerful rear wheel travel car. The trick here's to enter the part and dip the clutch. Improve the engine revs to nearby the red line, and launch the clutch at the apex then. The resulting shock load of torque sent through the driveline should break traction at the trunk wheels, invoking oversteer thus.

CHANGING DOWN / SHIFT LOCK

"Shift lock" describes the actions of locking the trunk tires momentarily by changing down a equipment (or two) speedily without rev matching. Once you're again on the gas this will provide you with the advantages of even more torque at the tires as a result of lower gear, with excessive revs helping maintain the drift.

LIFT OFF / BRAKING

Entering a corner quickly, therefore lifting off the accelerator at the apex could cause oversteer as a result of resulting forward fat transfer which reduces hold at the trunk tyres. In the event that you drive a persistent car particularly, an instant dab on the brakes will help.

HANDBRAKE / E-BRAKE

If your car won't get tail happy, generally there is the choice of the handbrake / crisis brake always. An abrupt sharp application and release mid corner will break traction at the trunk wheels, but be sure you keep your thumb on the release button! Can get on the throttle just as as the trunk steps out soon.

SCANDINAVIAN FLICK / FEINT

Flicking the car the contrary direction to the part, just before submit will generate an instant lateral weight transfer that may unsettle the automobile enough to flick the trunk out. Once you turn in, can get on the gas and plan the resulting oversteer.

JUMP DRIFT

This is probably one of the most risky methods - the secret here is to place two wheels onto the within edge of the monitor while cornering, with the resulting bump unsettling car plenty of to break traction at the trunk. Use with caution!

C. CONTROLLING AND SUSTAINING THE DRIFT

Once the back again starts to arrive round it is advisable to act quickly. Keep carefully the power on (you could possibly be surprised just how much power must sustain the drift) and quickly counter-steer in the required direction of travel , and balance the throttle to improve the frame of mind of the electric motor car.

To maintain the drift you should keep the power to keep carefully the rear wheels spinning - about 80% throttle may be the guideline (although you'll need significantly less in slippery or low traction circumstances). If the trunk comes too much round, gently alleviate off the throttle and apply further steering lock to improve the slide. If you are acquiring it hard to keep carefully the slide going, you may want to use more vitality or take the part slightly faster.

D. ENDING THE DRIFT

Completing the drift and obtaining the car straight again could be tricky - in the event that you end the drift prematurely you might find the automobile begins to oversteer in the contrary direction, resulting in 'fishtailing' and a pendulum impact which is often hard to control. The secret is to help ease off the power efficiently and change the steering quickly and decisively back again to the straight ahead posture. Don't allow the steering tell you the hands as this won't provide you with the control you need.

SCANDINAVIAN FLICK TECHNIQUE

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Thu, 31 Mar 2016 14:50:00 +0000

SCANDINAVIAN FLICK TECHNIQUE

Scandinavian rally-car individuals popularized a method that became known as the "Scandinavian flick." The target is to briefly unbalance the electric motor car enough to make a impressive drift. which is A technique so you can get your vehicle sideways. While moving, transform one of many ways then immediately flip the other way, unsettling the automobile and initiating a drift thus.

5STEPS

Lift, turn, brake. That's where you turn the automobile in the contrary direction of the change counterintuitively. By letting off the accelerator, turning the wheel and applying the brakes, you're putting weight over leading tires. This motion offers you grip in front and swings the rear end out. Think about it as winding up before a pitch.

Turn back, relieve the brake and blip the throttle. This shifts weight back again to the trunk of the electric motor car, giving those wheels grasp. With leading wheels pointed in to the turn, the trunk of the electric motor car will pivot and rotate back the additional way. Be sure you have your eyes on the apex, because that is where you intend to go.

Countersteer around you need. According to the road surface, the trunk end can rotate at several speeds, so anticipate to adapt. With the tires pointed at the apex, you should previously be seeking at your exit. The engine car will head out where your eyes want.

Be patient. Await the car to let you know what it's doing. Modulating the throttle and brakes could keep the car in order as you arrive around the apex, but it is possible that you won't have to touch either pedal and you could just allow car do its matter.

Exit smooth. The hardest component is behind you, thus there's no good sense in rushing to reunite on the gas and screwing everything up. As you straighten the motor car away, slowly lean in to the accelerator and look and feel for the hold in the street. Now that you're out from the turn and pointed later on, reunite on the gas and revel in the adrenaline buzz.

Note that experienced rally driver may do may of these stages simultaneously while using techniques such as left foot braking.

Do Donuts

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Thu, 31 Mar 2016 14:49:00 +0000

Do Donuts

A doughnut or donut is usually a maneuver performed while travelling a vehicle. Performing this maneuver entails rotating the trunk or front of the automobile around the opposite group of wheels in a continuing motion, creating (ideally) a circular skid-mark pattern of rubber on a roadway and perhaps even triggering the tires to emit smoke from friction.

Donuts are one of the most dramatic show boating techniques you can do in a car. It has very little use on the track other than to celebrate your fast lap times!

You can perform a doughnut in two slightly different ways and you don't need to be too hard on the clutch to pull one off. You can either have a rolling start, or spin the wheels from a standstill...

Using a Rear-Wheel-Drive Car

Put your vehicle into first gear. This technique only works for vehicles that contain a manual transmission, as you shall have to use the clutch. Pull the apparatus shift, either next to your tyre or your right leg, and shift it to first gear. Then slowly but surely press on the accelerator and drive forward slowly. As your car accumulates some speed (15-20 mph) get started to turn your tyre in the direction you want your donut to go.this task isn't about making the donut, but about positioning your vehicle in order that you will be ready to do so

Turn your tyre as to accomplish a tighter circle. It's important that step, and the next step, be achieved one immediately after another, fairly quickly. Continue to press on your accelerator gradually. Turn your tyre to ensure that it really is positioned somewhere within a 45-90 degree angle (in the same direction as before). When you are turning your wheel, press completely down on your own clutch and pull through to your hand brake.Your car's rear wheels will get started to secure as your car commences to skid.

Floor the accelerator and launch the hands and clutch brake. It is important that step, and the prior step, be achieved one immediately after another, rapidly. As your car's back wheels lock, as well as your starts to skid, flooring the accelerator. Simultaneously you happen to be flooring your accelerator, you should discharge both clutch and the hands brake also. Should you have enough speed, your car should get started to spin and perform a donut now

Decelerate after one or two donuts slowly. Once you have completed between one or two donuts, bring your vehicle back again to normal speed by lifting through to the accelerator. When you are slowing down, start to carefully turn your wheel back again to the self-explanatory position. You shall want to aim your vehicle in direction of an open up space of blacktop. Once you have the motor car in order, press on the clutch and shift your vehicle back into park

Doing Donuts with a Front-Wheel-Drive Car

Shift your vehicle into first Gear. Move into first products if your vehicle has a manual transmitting. Get into hill-climbing items if your vehicle has an computerized transmission. The apparatus shift is situated either next to your tyre or your right knee. When you are shifting your vehicle into gear, convert your tyre in a single course completely

Press on your accelerator. Floor the throttle as well as your car should commence to turn in a single direction. As the electric motor car is slipping, yank the tactile hand brake to get started the rear-wheel slide

Manage both recharged vitality and the brake. To keep carefully the motor car spinning and gliding on the trunk wheels, you will have to press on the accelerator and lift the hand brake continuously. Once you've done so once, let off of the accelerator slightly, and allow hand brake go . Whenever your car starts to reduce power, plus some of the spin therefore, press on the throttle again, and lift up the hands brake

Take care not to rev your engine unit too much in first equipment. In the event that you do that more than 5-6 times it can commence to damage your engine motor.

To stop the donuts, let from the accelerator marginally simply, while jerking your tyre back to the guts position.

Press on the brake and clutch as you move back to area.

Doing Reverse Donuts with a Front-Wheel-Drive Car

shift your vehicle into reverse gear. This method only works with cars that contain a manual transmission as you will need to use the clutch. Begin by turning your tyre to 1 direction. Since you do this, change your vehicle into reverse. The apparatus change should be located either next to your tyre or right leg

Begin to back again your vehicle up. Press the clutch first. As you do that, floor the accelerator. After the accelerator is floored, let up from the clutch. Your car shall get started to lurch backwards, as leading wheels start to reduce grip and learn to slide. The front will commence to rotate around the relative back wheels

If you want to drive away from a doughnut ensure you make the necessary counter-steering adjustments early as the car will have a tendency to oversteer.

Do not attempt this technique on the public roads!

A J-TurnTechnique

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Thu, 31 Mar 2016 14:49:00 +0000

A J-TURN
(Spin and Go)

The J-turn is a way of changing way by 180 diplomas rapidly, starting backwards and finding yourself directing forwards.The J-turn is also known as a "moonshiner's move" a "reverse 180", a"Rockford Convert"That is an evasive driving a vehicle manoeuvre or stunt mainly, but will be a lot of fun also. When learning this system, it's worth using low grip surfaces like a grassy field or a wet region of tarmac.Once you're positive, you could work up to dry out tarmac, but you'll need more rate this means things could fail faster. The stunning thing about J-turns is you do not desire a performance car to pull one off.

Steps

Start in reverse gear, make certain the coast is apparent behind you and switch your mind so you're looking from the rear window and side position on the tyre for an anti-clockwise transform(Left hand at 12 o time clock on the wheel)

Reverse aggressively (transferring the pounds to the back of the automobile) and fractionally soon after quickly apply 50 percent to three quarters of a convert of steering lock speedily

(Lift up off gas and quickly flip the steering wheel 180 (Left palm from 12:00 to 6:00

But First of all There are two standard methods among which uses the brakes (best) and one doesn't (more challenging). For those who have ABS fitted, you won't be able to utilize the brake method since it shall be unattainable to lock the tires, so browse the paragraph that pertains to your car below:

A Front wheel travel, manual transmission, no Abdominal muscles
Mid method through the turn, when leading tires are with the monitor parallel, stab the clutch and brakes*. This will secure the front wheels simply because almost all of the braking bias is towards leading. The momentum of the switch combined with rear weight transfer allows the front for the automobile to rotate round until you're facing in the contrary direction. When leading tires are locked, select primary gear.

If you would like not to secure leading wheels, use alternative B.

B. Front wheel travel, manual transmission, ABS
As you own ABS fitted you will not be able to secure leading wheels as found in option A. This implies it will be more challenging to select first equipment when the tires are rotating backwards which means you have to use double declutching. To get this done, press the clutch in and pop it into neutral, clutch out briefly then. Clutch in just as before and select first. This could be done as an instant series of movements with repetition, but adds complexity to the manoeuvre.

C. Rear end or four wheel get, manual transmitting , with or without Ab muscles
It is extremely difficult to secure the rear tires when pulling off a J-turn, therefore the easiest method is in order to avoid the utilization of the brakes and dual declutch to choose first gear. To get this done, press the clutch in and pop it into neutral, then simply clutch out briefly. Clutch in just as before and select first. This is often done as an instant series of movements with repetition.

D. Automatic transmission, entrance, rear of four steering wheel get, with or without Ab muscles
If you have a computerized, this technique could be much simpler to accomplish - mid approach through the turn, flick into neutral simply, then drive if you are pointing in the proper course. Some autos are even more sympathetic, and in cases like this you can move directly into drive.

Car shall get started to Spin

As Vehicle finishes spin Then Left Hand straight and accelerate

After car comprehensive spin ensure first Gear or 'D' is determined, and relieve the clutch and pressure some gas and choose

Hand Brake Technique

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Thu, 31 Mar 2016 14:49:00 +0000

Hand Brake Drifting

There are many techniques that will help you start your drift. The hand brake (or ebrake) is usually easy and simple & most common way to start out off with. All starters shall need to get familiar with this system first. If you're scared initially, it's also advisable to practice this system until you aren't afraid of the motor car slipping

DO IT IN 6 STEPS

Accelerate and shift right into a gear with place to rev. Second gear is generally used since it enables the widest variance of speed and is most beneficial for harnessing the engine's torque.

Press in the clutch.

Flick the tyre to the within of the turn just like you were going to change it. While concurrently pulling the hands brake.

Put some pressure on the gas pedal immediately, let out the clutch, and steer the automobile in direction of the slide, using throttle to regulate the position of the drift.

More throttle can make the automobile turn more, and move the automobile from the turn center likewise.

less throttle shall reduce position, and allow the automobile to move towards the within of the turn even more freely.

WELL DONE You're drifting

DO A PERFECT HANDBRAKE TURN

When practicing handbrake turns, you need to use a minimal friction surface to create it easier for the trunk end to slide also to prolong the life span of your tyres. Here's a synopsis of the maneuver, which we've put into six Stage

Stage 1

Approach the corner at a reasonably low acceleration (only 30 mph is a wonderful guideline, when learning). Use first gear if you are starting to learn, then try bigger gears for entire mastery. Before you turn into the corner corner, swiftly come off the gas to make a forwards weight transfer and offer maximum grip at the front end end - you will need this to permit a swift submit.

Position your hands in a way which allows you to take big bite of the steering wheel and turn in a single fluid motion. A suggested initial hand position to take a left hander and the direction of turn is shown below. If you're in a left hand drive car, the right hand is optional and vice versa - you'll need the other hand to operate the hand brake half way through the maneuvers. You'll find it easier if the hand doing the steering is pulling the wheel rather than pushing it - but it is possible to do the turn in both directions with practice.

Stage 2

Turn in hard in a single fluid motion and try to apex half real approach round the corner

Stage 3

Simultaneously press the clutch and slam on the handbrake in an instant and positive motion, ensuring you are retaining down the discharge button to avoid the ratchet engaging - you will have to release it simply a quickly.This will secure the rear tires and induce a slide and learn to shrink the radius of the part.

Stage 4

As the back of the car comes round, start to take off the steering lock you initially applied. You may need to let the wheel slip through your hand in a controlled way. You need to end up with the wheels pointing in the direction you want to go.

Stage 5

It is the tricky little bit - when the electric motor car offers rotated to the required amount, launching the handbrake, knock into earliest gear if required, and draw out the clutch with enough revs to spin the tires slightly. This will provide you with the best possible begin in the new path. Counter steer if important if you have overcooked the angle.

Stage 6

Pull away applying the same throttle strategy as an ideal start.

Use the Hand Brake Technique to Drift with Rear Wheel Drive and Manual Transmission

Accelerate and shift into 2nd gear with room to rev. Push in clutch. Flick steering wheel as if to switch around. Put some pressure on gas, let away clutch, and steer into direction of the slip (using throttle to regulate move angle).
You're drifting!

Drifting with a Front Wheel Drive Car

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Thu, 31 Mar 2016 13:49:00 +0000

Getting ready to Drift with a Front Steering wheel Drive Car

Visit a large, available area.

Take the handbrake or use the car parking brake, driving it out the very first time or two to overcome your initial dread.

Setup a cone in the center of the great deal.Drive up to it at quickness (between 20 and 30 is desired).

Yank the tactile side brake and change toward the cone. After you feel immediately

The trunk end come around, turn to the contrary direction. That is known as opposite lock.

Repeat the contrary lock at that velocity until you can control your vehicle well. Practice this for at least weeks regularly until it becomes second nature. (Don't do that on roadways. It really is dangerous to others and can get you fined.)

Slowly increase acceleration until you are experienced in a velocity you are comfortable with. Become familiar with that speed--you shouldn't drift above that speed if you don't are practicing.

Update. At the same original rate, flick the tyre opposite of the turn and swing action it all just how into toward the CONE (not switch, you aren't ready at this time). As before, when you are feeling the trunk end come around,

go to complete opposite lock.

In Brief

Approach a change at an appropriate speed, ideally in mid 2nd equipment.

Yank the handbrake while turning out to be the corner, do not lock the trunk wheels.

You need to still have the energy on, do not go significantly less than 1/2 throttle at any right time through the drift.

When you feel the car learn to understeer, and lose viewpoint, take the brake harder.

When the automobile appears to change too much, give it steadily more throttle, and release the handbrake some.

Don't tense up, feel it just.

You Should Understand That In Drift

Throttle
Understanding all the drifting techniques is exactly what most drifters will work on constantly; they will be the core of your ability. The amount of throttle is determined by the motor car?s angle and the quantity of countersteer. More throttle escalates the angle. An excessive amount of throttle and you also?ll spin. Less throttle diminishes the angle. Inadequate throttle therefore you?ll grip regain.

Brakes
Braking is not essential while drifting usually, only after getting into the drift. Certainly the brake pedal can be used to decelerate, but there?s more to it! Proper braking can affect the automobile greatly?s balance by shifting more excess weight.When braking also, because of the ahead weight transition the trunk tires lose even more grip. If you are steering while braking the drift can be increased by it angle. Watching your brake balance is important; you must have a good sense for the brakes!

Clutch
The clutch can be used to initiate the drift often. Properly using the clutch pedal also gives the driver the ability to raise the drift angle, also to gain more momentum. Many of these little adjustments can be carried out without restricting much speed.Clutch kicking is an average technique for the low power cars; they want all the velocity they can get! The clutch only can be adequate to cause a drift!

Steering
Steering is the main of all probably, it? vital that you find the perfect amount of countersteer. An excessive amount of countersteer so you?ll spin around, and inadequate countersteer and you simply?ll end up soaring off of the trail!Though it might appear to be you need to be at tossing the steering wheel around vigorously, smooth steering is the ideal solution still!