Free Vintage Crochet Patterns

Crochet Square

2008-01-27T18:30:00.001-08:00

Begin with 4 chain stitches, and work 1 single on the 1st chain, to make a round. Work, 1 chain and 2 plain on the next chain, 3 plain on each of the next 3 chain, 1 plain on the stitch on which the two first plain are worked.

Slip the next stitch, that is, put the needle in between the horizontal bars of the 1st plain stitch of the previous row, and draw the thread out without making a stitch.

Then make 1 chain and 2 plain on the slipped stitch.

After which, you make 3 plain on the second of the 3 plain that form the corner, and 1 plain on all the other stitches of the last row. The beginning and end of each row, are worked as described above.

This figure represents a square, worked in consecutive rows. In making a crochet square, the rows may end in the middle of a side.

When you use a stitch that has to be worked to and fro, you turn your work at the end of every row and work back along the stitches you have just made.

Purl Foundation Chain

2007-10-12T05:59:00.001-07:00

Crochet 4 chain stitch, then 1 treble stitch--that is, wind the cotton round the needle, insert the needle downwards into the left side of the 1st of the 4 chain stitches, wind the cotton round the needle, draw it through the stitch, wind the cotton again round the needle, and at the same time draw the cotton through the last loop and through the stitch formed by winding the cotton round the needle. Wind the cotton once more round the needle, and draw it through the 2 remaining loops on the needle. The 4 chain stitches form a kind of scallop or purl. Repeat from *. The following crochet stitches require foundation chains like Nos. 216 and 217; they are all worked in separate rows excepting the two Nos. 222 and 234. Make a loop at the beginning of every row, as has been described (No. 216), and take it on the needle.

Double Foundation Chain

2007-10-12T05:56:00.000-07:00

Crochet 2 chain stitches, insert the needle downwards into the left side of the 1st chain stitch, throw the cotton forward, draw it out as a loop, wind the cotton again round the needle and draw it through the two loops on the needle, * draw the cotton as a loop through the left side of the last stitch (see illustration), wind the cotton round the needle, and draw it through both loops on the needle. Repeat from * till the foundation chain is long enough.

Plain Foundation Chain

2007-10-11T08:29:00.000-07:00

The plain foundation chain consists of chain stitches.

Form a loop with the cotton or other material with which you work, take it on the needle, and hold the cotton as for knitting on the forefinger and other fingers of the left hand. The crochet-needle is held in the right hand between the thumb and forefinger, as you hold a pen in writing; hold the end of the cotton of the loop between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, wind the cotton once round the needle by drawing the needle underneath the cotton from left to right, catch the cotton with the hook of the needle and draw it as a loop through the loop already on the needle, which is cast off the needle by this means and forms one chain stitch. The drawing the cotton through the loop is repeated until the foundation chain has acquired sufficient length. When enough chain stitches have been made, take the foundation chain between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, so that these fingers are always close to and under the hook of the needle. Each stitch must be loose enough to let the hook of the needle pass easily through. All foundation chains are begun with a loop.

Stars in Crochet.

2007-10-03T06:26:00.000-07:00

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 8 or 20.

This pattern can be used for a couvrette or pincushion cover, according to the size of the cotton with which it is worked.

Each star is begun in the centre by a chain of 8 stitches. In the 1st stitch work 1 treble, * 4 chain, 1 treble in this same 1st stitch, repeat from * 3 times more, 4 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 4th of the 8 chain. You have thus formed 8 rays, joined to the 1st stitch. Now work (without cutting the cotton) the branches, which are begun from the centre.

1st branch.--1st round: 18 chain, 1 treble in the 13th, so as to form a purl with the last 5, 2 chain, 3 treble with 2 chain between, missing 2 stitches under the 2 chain, 2 chain, 1 slip stitch in the last of the 18 chain.

2nd round: 2 double over the 1st 2 chain, 2 double with 1 purl between over the next 2 chain, 2 double over the next 2 chain, 1 purl, 7 double over the next 5 chain; then, on the other side of the branch, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double, 2 double with 1 purl between, 2 double on the last 2 chain of the branch, 1 slip stitch in the stitch from which the leaf was begun, 5 double over the 4 chain of the circle. Here begins the second branch.

1st round of the 2nd leaf: 22 chain, 1 double in the last so as to form a circle.

2nd round: 1 double in each of the 10 first chain, in the next stitch work 1 double, 1 chain, 1 double to form the point, 1 double in each [212] of the 10 remaining stitches, 1 slip stitch in the 1st stitch of the 1st round.

3rd round: 3 double, 1 purl, repeat from * twice more, then work in double crochet as far as the point, work 2 double with 1 chain between, then work the 2nd half of the branch the same as the 1st. Before beginning the next leaf, work 5 double on the chain stitches of the circle; work 6 branches, repeating alternately the 2 above explained; cut the cotton and fasten it on again to the point of one of the branches, in order to join them together by the two following rounds:--

1st round: 1 double in the point of one of the leaves, * 4 chain, 1 purl under the chain; thus make 5 chain, turn the chain with the crochet to the right, insert the needle downwards in the first chain, and make a slip stitch, 4 chain, 1 purl under, 4 chain, 1 purl under, 4 chain, 1 slip stitch in the point of the next leaf, repeat from * five times more.

2nd round: * 4 double over the nearest 4 chain; 1 purl as usual--that is, above the chain--4 double over the next 4 chain. Now work 1 trefoil (thus: 1 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the 1 double coming just before the 3 purl). 1 double on each of the next 4 chain of last round, 1 purl, 5 double, 1 trefoil, repeat five times from *.

Join the stars by a few stitches, as seen in the illustration.

Sovereign Purse

2007-09-25T06:30:00.000-07:00

Materials: 1 skein of black purse silk: 1 skein of coloured ditto; a few steel beads; and a steel clasp.

The open portion of this purse is worked in coloured, and the raised rose and outer border in black, silk, the latter being dotted with steel beads. A few rows of plain double crochet are worked, increasing where necessary, to make the work lie flat; then 4 rows of loops of chain in coloured silk, and then 3 rows of thick double crochet, threading the beads first on the silk, and pushing them up to the stitches when required.

The black silk must now be joined on to the centre, and the little [210] raised piece worked in treble crochet, inserting the hook on the upper side of the stitches. Three rounds of treble are executed, and when both sides of the purse are finished they should be joined together (except where the clasp is put on) by a row of open treble, ornamented with beads. This purse is so easy to make, that it might be worked without the least difficulty from the illustration.

Silk Bag

2007-09-24T07:20:00.000-07:00

Materials: 2 skeins each of black, blue, rose, and drab coarse purse twist; 8 skeins of the spangled silk for the top part of the bag and strings; the tassel for the bottom is made of the silks that are left; rings.

Work over a ring in double crochet, with black, 48 stitches and fasten off; this is for the centre ring. Then with the rose colour take a ring and work 24 stitches in double crochet as before, take a second ring, and work 24 double crochet over it without cutting off the silk, work over 4 more rings in the same manner, then work on the other side of the rings to correspond, join the first and last ring together, and sew in the centre ring; this completes the 1st circle. Work 12 more rounds in the same way, 3 rose colour, with drab centre, 3 blue with black, 3 drab with rose centre, 3 black with blue, join 6 circles of the alternate colours to the 1st circle, 1 to each ring, then sew the second ring to the corresponding one of the next circle, till the 6 are united; join [207] the other 6 circles in the following manner: join one ring to the second from the one that was sewed to the 1st circle, join the next ring to the corresponding one of the next circle (which will be the one opposite to the one sewed in the 1st circle), and repeat, joining the other 5 in the same way.

For the small diamond make a chain of 5 stitches and unite it, work 4 long stitches into the circle, make 2 chain, work 1 single stitch to the centre of the ring missed in joining the last circle, make 2 chain, work 4 long into the circle, make 2 chain, and work a stitch of single crochet to the centre of the next ring, make 2 chain, work 4 long into the same place, make 5 chain, work 4 long into the same place, make 2 chain, and work a stitch of single crochet to the next ring, make 2 chain, and join it to the first of the long stitches; this completes the diamonds; work 5 more, joining them in the same way, then work over 12 rings, and join one on each side of every diamond; this completes the lower part of the bag. For the top part of the bag work 3 stitches of double crochet to the centre of each ring, make 5 chain, and repeat. 1st round: Work 1 long stitch, make 1 chain, miss 1 loop, and repeat. Work 12 more rounds in the same way, working the long stitch into the chain stitch of last row. Run some cord in the top of the bag to match one of the colours used, and make the tassel for the bottom from the silk that is remaining after working the crochet.

Small Crochet Basket

2007-09-24T07:10:00.001-07:00

Materials: 2 balls of closely-covered white and silver, and 1 ball of pink and silver twine; a crochet needle.

For the bottom:Make a chain of 4 stitches and unite it, work 3 long, 3 chain, and repeat three times more.

2nd round:Work 3 long into the 1st 3 chain, make 3 chain, work 3 long [200] into the next 3 chain, make 3 chain, work 3 long into the same place, make 3 chain, and repeat.

3rd round: 3 long, 3 chain, working twice into the 3 chain of last round.

4th round: 3 long, 3 chain, increasing in every other 3rd chain by working twice into it.

5th round: Increasing in every 3rd chain, repeat.

For the leaves: Make a chain of 32 stitches, then work a row of 1 long stitch and 1 chain stitch with the silver twine.

2nd round: Work 1 long stitch into each chain stitch in 1st row, make 1 chain stitch, repeat. (At the point, make 4 long, with a chain stitch between each), repeat on the other side of the chain, 1 long stitch and 1 chain stitch alternately.

3rd round: With pink: Work over a wire in double crochet 1 stitch into each loop, work 15 more leaves in the same way, join each leaf half way, then sew it to the centre, work a row of double crochet 1 yard in length, and twist it for the handle. This should also be crocheted over wire.

Free Learn to Crochet eBook

2007-09-18T13:28:00.001-07:00

Here's a free learn to crochet eBook we've run across on the Web. It includes the following:

* Abbreviations Used in Crochet
* General Information
* Basic Crochet Stitches
* Fancy Crochet Stitches
* Changing Color in Crochet
* For The Left Handed
* Care of Your Crochet Articles

http://www.funcrochet.com/learntocrochetebook.html

Lamp Mat

2007-08-09T10:51:00.000-07:00

MATERIALS..—6 skeins of white netting silk, and 3 skeins each of four shades of cerise ditto, the darkest being almost brown, and the lightest a rich and brilliant cerise. A hank of rather large steel beads, a string of short square steel bugles, and 1 oz. of fluted ditto, 1/2 inch long. A skein of rather fine white cotton cord, and 54 rings. Tapered, indented crochet-hook, No. 22. Begin with the darkest cerise, and do not change until the directions require it.

1st round: With this silk work 8 s.c. on the end of the cord, and form into a round, after which 6 s.c. to secure it.

2nd (Cerise and white): X 1 cerise in the same stitch as the last, 1 white, 2 cerise in 1, x 6 times.

3rd: X 1 cerise worked in the same stitch as the last two, 3 white, 2 cerise in one, X 6 times.

4th: Like 3rd, with 5 white instead of 3.

5th: X 1 cerise in the same stitch as the last two, 7 white, 4 cerise in 1, X 6 times.

6th: X 1 cerise in the same as the last four, 11 white (the last 2 being over 2 cerise), 4 cerise in one, X 6 times.

7th: X 1 cerise on the next stitch, 13 white, 1 cerise on 1, 3 on the centre one of 5, X 6 times.

8th: Like 7th, with 15 white. Change to the next shade of cerise.

9th: X 1 cerise on next, 8 white, 1 cerise, 8 white, 1 cerise, 3 cerise on centre of 5, X 6 times.

10th: X 1 cerise on next, 8 white, 3 cerise (the second over 1 cerise), 8 white, 1 cerise, 3 in 1, X 6 times.

11th: X 1 cerise on next, 6 white, 3 cerise, 1 white, 1 cerise, 1 white, 3 cerise, 6 white, 1 cerise, 3 in 1, X 6 times.

12th: X 1 cerise in next, 6 white, 11 cerise, 6 white, 1 cerise. 3 in 1, X 6 times.

Next shade of cerise.

13th: X 1 cerise in next, 5 white, 5 cerise, 2 white, 1 cerise, 2 white, 5 cerise, 5 white, 1 cerise, 3 in 1, X 6 times.

14th: X 1 cerise in next, 7 white, 3 cerise, * 1 white, 2 cerise, * twice, 1 white, 3 cerise, 7 white, 1 cerise, 3 in 1, x 6 times. 15th: X 1 cerise in next, 11 white, 3 cerise, 1 white, 3 cerise, 11 white, 1 cerise, 3 in 1, X 6 times.

16th (Lightest cerise): X 1 cerise in the same stitch as the last 3, 13 white, 2 cerise, 1 white, 1 cerise, 1 white, 2 cerise, 13 white, 4 cerise in 1, X 6 times.

17th: X 1 cerise in the next, 16 white, 3 cerise (over 1 w., 1 c., 1 w.), 16 white, 1 cerise, 3 in 1, X 6 times.

LAMP MAT.

18th: X 1 cerise on next, 18 white, 1 cerise, 18 white, 1 cerise, 3 cerise in 1, X 6 times.

19th: X 1 cerise in next, 39 white, 1 cerise, 3 cerise in 1, X 6 times.

20th: X 1 cerise in 1, 2 white, * 2 cerise, 3 white, * 7 times, 2 cerise, 2 white, 1 cerise, 3 cerise in 1, X 6 times.

21st: X 1 cerise in next, * 3 white, 2 cerise, * 8 times (the white over white, the cerise over cerise), 3 white, 1 cerise, 3 cerise in 1, X 6 times.

22nd: X 1 cerise in next, 3 white, * 1 cerise, 2 white over 2 cerise, 1 cerise, 1 white, * 8 times, 2 more white, 1 cerise, 3 cerise in 1, X 6 times.

23rd: X 1 cerise in next, 3 white, * 1 cerise, 4 white, * 8 times, 1 cerise, 3 white, 1 cerise, 3 cerise in 1, X 6 times.

24th: Entirely cerise, working 3 in 1 at all the 6 points.

25th: White and cerise alternately, a single stitch of each, with 3 in 1 at the points.

26th: All cerise, increasing, as before, at the corners.

This completes the centre of the mat. Now cover six of the rings with the darkest cerise, 12 with the lightest, 12 with the second lightest, and 24 with white. They are to be done in s.c. The darkest are sewed in the centre of each side of hexagon, with a white at each side, and two more (joined together) above it. The lightest cerise are placed at the points the two being joined together, and one to the mat. These form the extreme points, and the other twelve are placed to connect the lightest rings with the white. The short square bugles are threaded, with some of the beads, to form a cross in the centre of each of the white rings; the other rings have a cross of beads only. All the rings are sewed together, and to the mat.

The elegant fringe round the edge is formed of the long steel bugles, connected with each other at the outer edge by a chain of 4 steel beads. The needle is slipped down them to connect them with the rings, and a single bead is threaded at the base of each. The side rings have 6 bugles each, placed at equal distances; the corners have 8; and 1 is placed where every two rings are joined.

This mat would be very beautiful if worked in white and shades of green, with gold beads and bugles.

Free Crochet Patterns at Craftown

2007-08-07T05:23:00.001-07:00

Here's a link to a big collection of free crochet patterns at Craftown:

http://www.craftown.com/crochet.htm

Coasters

2007-08-06T14:09:00.000-07:00

Here's a free crochet pattern for some coasters

Irish Crochet Baby Dress

2007-08-03T19:49:00.001-07:00

Here's a free crochet pattern for a baby dress.

Crochet Pattern Bowl of Roses

2007-08-03T19:04:00.000-07:00

Crochet Pattern Bowl Of Roses Placemat or Doily

Here's a free crochet pattern for a placemat or doily.

Cathedral Window Doily

2007-08-03T18:48:00.000-07:00

Here's a free crochet pattern for a Cathedral Window Doily

Basic Crochet Stitches

2007-08-03T18:23:00.000-07:00

The basic stitches used in crochet are, chain, slip, single, double, treble, and long treble crochet.

TO MAKE A CHAIN, form a loop on the thread, insert the hook in it, and draw the thread in another loop through this. Continue this to form a succession of stitches.

SLIP-STITCH is made by drawing a thread at once through any given stitch and the loop which is on the needle.

SINGLE CROCHET (written s.c.)—Having a loop on the needle, insert the hook in a stitch, and draw the thread through in a loop. You then have two on the hook; draw the thread through both at once.

DOUBLE CROCHET (d.c.)—Twist the thread round the hook before inserting it in the stitch, through which you draw the thread in a loop. Three loops being then on the needle, draw the thread through two, and then through the one just formed and the remaining one.

TREBLE CROCHET (t.c.) and LONG TREBLE (long t.c.) are worked in the same manner; in the former the thread is put twice, in the latter three times, round the hook, before inserting it into the stitch.

TO JOIN LEAVES.—When one part of a leaf, flower, etc., is to be joined to another, drop the loop from your hook, which insert in the place to be joined; draw the loop through and continue working.

TO PASS FROM ONE ROUND TO ANOTHER WITHOUT BREAKING THE THREAD.—In working mats and many similar articles this is very desirable. Having finished one round, see whether a s.c., d.c., or t.c. stitch begins the next; for s.c. make one chain, for d.c. three, for t.c. four; slip the needle out, and twist the chain, then continue working. This twisted chain will have all the appearance of a d.c. or t.c. stitch. Should the round not begin exactly in the same place, slip-stitch to the part where it commences, as it will seldom be more than a few stitches in advance.

SQUARE CROCHET is a term often used, and generally understood, as the engraved patterns are mostly in it. Lest, however, any of our readers should not be familiar with the name, we will explain it. The squares are either open or close. An open square consists of one d.c., two ch.—missing two on the line beneath, before making the next stitch. A close square has three successive d.c. Thus, any given number of close squares, followed by an open, will have so many times three d.c., and one over; and any foundation made for a pattern to be worked in square crochet will have a number of chains divisible by three, leaving one over.

TO CONTRACT AN EDGE.—In forming leaves and many other things, this is very useful. It can be done in d.c., t.c., or long t.c. Having twisted the thread round the needle as often as the stitch may require, insert it in the work, and half-do a stitch. Instead of completing it, again twist the thread round, until the same number of loops are on, and work a stitch completely. Thus, for two stitches taken in the work, there is only one head. This being successively repeated materially contracts an edge.

TO JOIN ON A THREAD.—Avoid joins in open work as much as possible. In close work, whether d.c. or s.c., they will not be perceived. Finish the stitch by drawing the new thread through, allowing a couple of inches for both ends, which you hold in.

TO WORK WITH SEVERAL COLOURS.—Hold the threads not in use along the edge of the work, and work them in. When the colour is to be changed, begin the stitch with the old colour, and complete it with the new, which continue to work with, holding the other in. If only one stitch of a colour is to be used, you finish one stitch, and begin the next with it; then change. Colours are seldom intermixed, except in solid work, such as the ends of purses, mats worked over cord, and the like.

TO WORK OVER CORD.—Hold it in the left hand, with the work, and work round it, as you would if it were merely an end of thread. The stitches must, however, be sufficiently close to cover it entirely.

TO WORK WITH BEADS.—Beads must be first threaded on the silk, or other material, and then dropped, according to the pattern, on what is usually thought the wrong side of the work. This side presents a more even appearance than the other. It follows that when bead purses are worked from an engraving, they are worked the reverse of the usual way—namely, from right to left.

THE MARKS USED IN CROCHET RECEIPTS.—These are very simple when understood. They are printers' marks—asterisks, crosses, daggers, and sometimes one or two others. They are used to mark repetitions, and save space. The principal thing to observe is, that in every row or round, if one of any kind is used, a second, similar one, is sure to be found; and that the repetition occurs between the two, however far distant apart. Suppose a row of a pattern to be written thus:—X 2 d.c., 4 ch., miss 4, * 5 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, * three times, 5 d.c., X, * twice; it would, at full length, be—2 d.c., 4 ch., miss 4, 5 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, 5 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, 5 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, 5 d.c., 2 d.c., 4 ch., miss 4, 5 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, 5 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, 5 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, 5 d.c. It will be seen that one repetition often occurs within another, as in the stitches between the asterisks. Another mode of shortening receipts can be used only where a row has a centre both sides of which correspond; the latter being the same as the former, worked backwards. Then the letters b, a, are used, to mark that in the latter part of the row you reverse the instructions. b, 7 d.c., 3 ch., miss 2, 1 d.c., 2 ch., miss 1, a, 1 d.c. (the centre stitch), would be, 7 d.c., 3 ch., miss 2, 1 d.c., 2 ch., miss 1, 1 d.c., miss 1, 2 ch., 1 d.c., miss 2, 3 ch., 7 d.c. These letters and the printers' marks are equally used in knitting. It is easy to see how much space is gained by the use of these abbreviations, a knowledge of which is easily acquired. Probably many of our friends are already familiar with the substance of this preliminary lesson; but as daily experience convinces us that many are still ignorant of the principles of crochet, we trust the good-nature of the adepts will lead them to excuse this occupation of a page, in consideration of the benefit it will be to their less fortunate friends.

One word on the implement termed a crochet-hook. It should not be sharp or pointed, either in the point or barb, but smooth, and quite free from any angularity that can catch the silk. Cheap and common crochet-hooks are in the end the dearest, as they break cotton, ravel silk, wear out the patience, and prick the finger. They should be of the best steel, highly polished, and firmly fixed in ivory handles. Those we use have been made at our recommendation, and have the size engraved on every handle. This saves the tiresome and uncertain reference to a gauge. These hooks are termed "tapered, indented" crochet hooks.

Bullion Stitch

2007-08-02T17:48:00.000-07:00

For bullion stitch, select a needle, a little thicker towards the handle, and finer than you would use for any other crochet stitch.

Begin by making a chain of very loose stitches, then wind the thread several times, very evenly, round the needle. Insert the needle into a loop of the chain, make a single over, and draw it with the last over upon it, through all the other overs.

Trebles in bullion stitch, are worked in just the same manner, only that you have to turn the thread, at least 10 or 12 times round the needle and draw it through all the overs at once. To facilitate the passage of the needle, keep the overs in their place with the thumb and forefinger of the left hand.

Bullion stitch can only be worked with wool or a very fleecy thread, such as Coton à repriser D.M.C,[A]but trebles in bullion stitch can be worked in any of the D.M.C threads and cottons.

Knot Stitch

2007-08-02T17:43:00.000-07:00

This stitch which is composed of several loops forming a tuft, can only be worked from one side, consequently all one way. It looks best in a coarse material to show the interlacing of the threads.

Enter the needle through the two loops of the stitches of the bottom row, turn the thread round the needle, but away from you towards the back; bring it forward to the right side, put the needle again through one of the bottom stitches, make another over like the first and draw the needle through all the bars at once.

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2000-12-13T10:11:00.000-08:00

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